PREFACE.
The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.
The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.
With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.
While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.
Naples, April, 1835.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Departure of H.M.S. Actæon with the British Embassy to Constantinople
Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene
My first Night at Sea
Sunday on Board
Schoolmaster of the Actæon. Muster of the Crew
Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius
Scylla and Charybdis. Homer
The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land
Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances
Man overboard. Life Buoy
Cerigo. Taygetus
Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam
Nauplia de Malvoisie
Classic Reminiscences. Argos
Sharks. Greek Costume
Character of King Otho
Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet
Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis
Athens. The Piræus. Olive Grove
English Residents at Athens
Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses
Insolence of the Turks
Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave
American Missionaries. Temple of Theseus
Metropolis of modern Greece
Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm
Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map
Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus
Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi
The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus
Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza
Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet
Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour
Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles
Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute
First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers
The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate
Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul
Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actæon to her Anchorage
Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships
Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses
Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet
Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies
Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers
The Caique. Turkish Boatmen
Paras. Splendid Fountain.
Pera. Destructive Fire.
Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the
Funeral of a Russian Soldier
Landing of the British Ambassador
Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars
Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes
Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces
Value of the Turkish Pipe
Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile
Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar
Jewellery. Broussa Silks
Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician
Lord Ponsonby's Audience
His Reception. Count Orloff
Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments
Cricket. Turkish Fleet
Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters"
Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries
Palace. Turkish Horses
Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek
The Erraba. Turkish Ladies
Dancing Dervishes
Greek Bookseller
Mosque of Solimanie
Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations
View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar
Hippodrome
The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia
Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key
Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp
Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabé
Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana
Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actæon
Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments
Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct
Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks
Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs
Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story
College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground
Sultan's Visit to the Mosque
Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot
Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan
The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior
His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote
New Regulation Soldier
Palace of the British Embassy
Scene in the Arm Bazaar
George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants
Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper
Jew Brokers. Actæon
Humours of a Turkish Auction
Slave Market
A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves
Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary
Armenian Visiters. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman
Oriental Costume
Turks. Armenians. Greeks
Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character
Oriental Politeness. Portraits
Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt
Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalée. Ladies' Dresses
Hummums
Eastern Story-teller
Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul
Naval Banquet
Seven Towers
Tomb of Ali Pasha
Russian Insolence
Visit to Ibrahim Pasha
Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman
Laughable Anecdote of a Turk
Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks
The Muezzin
Madame Mauvromati. The Plague
Massacre of the Greeks
Anecdote of the Sultan
Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers
Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks
Greek Lady. Elegant Costume
Affability of the Turkish Females
The Pilot of the Actæon and the Seraskier
Foreign Visiters
Oriental Beauty
The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey
Morning Prayer. The Muezzin
Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart
Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby
Russian Insolence to an English Party
Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha
Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio
The Symplegades
Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth
Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper
Grand Review. Splendid Staff
Giant's Mountain
Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus
Prince Butera and the Sultan
Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince
Royal Country Seat
Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring
Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actæon. Lord Ponsonby
Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia
Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby
Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople
My fellow-Passengers
Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora
Greek Deputation. Anecdote
Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation
British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna
French Squadron. King of Greece
Smyrna. Excessive Heat
Departure for Syra
Accident. Island of Scio
Island of Tinos. Quarantine
Landing of the King. Ship Launch
Festival of St. John the Baptist
Syra. Bishop's Palace
Ladies of Mycone. Costume
Delos. Vulgar Tourists
Modern Antique
Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage
Visit to Antiparos
Marine Prospects. Spotico
Entrance to the Cavern
Perilous Descent
Melodramatic Scene
Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage
Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides
Splendid Transition
Dimensions of the Grotto
Terrified Frenchman. Our Return
A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene
Port of Milo
Warlike Mountaineers
Anecdote
Parting of the Royal Brothers
Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante
Distant View of Etna. Valetta
Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine
The Parlatorio
Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women
Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu
Valetta. Maltese Gazette
Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince
Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata
Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti
Temple of Hercules. Concord
Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon
Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house
Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage
Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves
Duchess de Berri
Scene on Board
Capri. Conclusion