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23 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
In the winter of 1865 it became necessary for me, on account of some disturbance of my health, to seek a change of scene and climate, with rest from work. Europe was proposed; but though there is much enjoyment for a naturalist in contact with the active scientific life of the Old World, there is little intellectual rest. Toward Brazil I was drawn by a lifelong desire. After the death of Spix, when a student of twenty years of age, I had been employed by Martius to describe the fishes they had b
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CHAPTER I. VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK TO RIO DE JANEIRO.
CHAPTER I. VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK TO RIO DE JANEIRO.
First Sunday at Sea.—Gulf Stream.—Gulf-Weed.—Lectures proposed.—First Lecture: “On the Gulf Stream in the Gulf Stream.”—Aquarium established on board.—Second Lecture.—Rough Sea.—Peculiar Tint of Water.—Third Lecture: Laying out Work of Expedition in Brazil; Distribution of Fishes in Brazilian Rivers; its Bearing on Origin of Species; Collecting of Eggs.—Tropical Sunset.—Fourth Lecture: Plan of Geological Investigations with special reference to Glacial Phenomena in South America.—Flying-Fish.—Fi
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CHAPTER II. RIO DE JANEIRO AND ITS ENVIRONS.—JUIZ DE FORA.
CHAPTER II. RIO DE JANEIRO AND ITS ENVIRONS.—JUIZ DE FORA.
Arrival.—Aspect of Harbor and City.—Custom-House.—First Glimpse of Brazilian Life.—Negro Dance.—Effect of Emancipation in United States upon Slavery in Brazil.—First Aspect of Rio de Janeiro on Land.—Picturesque Street Groups.—Eclipse of the Sun.—At Home in Rio.—Larangeiras.—Passeio Publico.—Excursion on the Dom Pedro Railroad.—Visit of the Emperor to the Colorado.—Cordiality of Government to the Expedition.—Laboratory.—Botanical Garden.—Alley of Palms.—Excursion to the Corcovado.—Juiz de Fora R
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CHAPTER III. LIFE IN RIO CONTINUED.—FAZENDA LIFE.
CHAPTER III. LIFE IN RIO CONTINUED.—FAZENDA LIFE.
Botafogo.—Insane Hospital.—Tijuca.—Erratic Drift.—Vegetation.—Birthday Dinner.—Arrangements for Parties to the Interior.—Public Lectures in Rio.—Procession of St. George.—Leave Rio on Excursion to the Fortaleza de Santa Anna.—Localities for Erratic Drift between Rio and Petropolis.—Departure from Juiz de Fora.—Arrival at the Fazenda.—Ride in the Forest.—Eve of San Joaō.—Cupim Nests.—Excursion to the Upper Fazenda.—Grand Hunt.—Picnic.—Coffee Plantation.—Return to Rio.—Mimic Snow-Fields.—Coffee In
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CHAPTER IV. VOYAGE UP THE COAST TO PARÁ.
CHAPTER IV. VOYAGE UP THE COAST TO PARÁ.
On board the “Cruzeiro do Sul.”—Members of the Party.—Arrival at Bahia.—Day in the Country.—Return to the Steamer.—Conversation about Slavery in Brazil.—Negro Marriages.—Maceio.—Pernambuco.—Parahyba do Norte.—Ramble on Shore.—Ceará.—Difficult Landing.—Brazilian Baths.—Maranham.—Assai Palm.—Visit to Orphan Asylum.—Detained in Port.—Variety of Medusæ.—Arrival of American Gunboat.—More Medusæ.—Dinner on Shore.—Cordiality toward the Expedition.—Arrival at Pará.—Kind Reception.—Environs of Pará.—Luxu
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CHAPTER V. FROM PARÁ TO MANAOS.
CHAPTER V. FROM PARÁ TO MANAOS.
First Sunday on the Amazons.—Geographical Question.—Convenient Arrangements of Steamer.—Vast Dimensions of the River.—Aspect of Shores.—Village of Breves.—Letter about Collections.—Vegetation.—Variety of Palms.—Settlement of Tajapurú.—Enormous Size of Leaves of the Miriti Palm.—Walk on Shore.—Indian Houses.—Courtesy of Indians.—Row in the Forest.—Town of Gurupá.—River Xingu.—Color of Water.—Town of Porto do Moz.—Flat-topped Hills of Almeyrim.—Beautiful Sunset.—Monte Alégre.—Character of Scenery
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CHAPTER VI. LIFE AT MANAOS.—VOYAGE FROM MANAOS TO TABATINGA.
CHAPTER VI. LIFE AT MANAOS.—VOYAGE FROM MANAOS TO TABATINGA.
Arrival at Manaos.—Meeting of the Solimoens with the Rio Negro.—Domesticated at Manaos.—Return of Party from the Tapajoz.—Generosity of Government.—Walks.—Water-Carriers.—Indian School.—Leave Manaos.—Life on board the Steamer.—Barreira das Cudajas.—Coari.—Wooding.—Appearance of Banks.—Geological Constitution.—Forest.—Sumaumeira-Tree.—Arrow-Grass.—Red Drift Cliffs.—Sand-Beaches.—Indian Huts.—Turtle-Hunting.—Drying Fish.—Teffé.—Doubts about the Journey.—Unexpected Adviser.—Fonte Bôa.—Geological Ch
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CHAPTER VII. LIFE IN TEFFÉ.
CHAPTER VII. LIFE IN TEFFÉ.
Aspect of Teffé.—Situation.—Description of Houses.—Fishing Excursion.—Astonishing Variety of Fishes.—Acara.—Scarcity of Laborers.—Our indoors Man.—Bruno.—Alexandrina.—Pleasant Walks.—Mandioca-shed in the Forest.—Indian Encampment on the Beach.—Excursion to Fishing Lodge on the Solimoens.—Amazonian Beaches.—Breeding-Places of Turtles, Fishes, etc.—Adroitness of Indians in finding them.—Description of a “Sitio.”—Indian Clay-Eaters.—Cuieira-Tree.—Fish Hunt.—Forest Lake.—Water Birds.—Success in coll
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CHAPTER VIII. RETURN TO MANAOS.—AMAZONIAN PICNIC.
CHAPTER VIII. RETURN TO MANAOS.—AMAZONIAN PICNIC.
Arrival at Manaos.—New Quarters.—The “Ibicuhy.”—News from Home.—Visit to the Cascade.—Banheiras in the Forest.—Excursion to Lake Hyanuary.—Character and Prospects of the Amazonian Valley.—Reception at the Lake.—Description of Sitio.—Successful Fishing.—Indian Visitors.—Indian Ball.—Character of the Dancing.—Disturbed Night.—Canoe Excursion.—Scenery.—Another Sitio.—Morals and Manners.—Talk with the Indian Women.—Life in the Forest.—Life in the Towns.—Dinner-Party.—Toasts.—Evening Row on the Lake.
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CHAPTER IX. MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
CHAPTER IX. MANAOS AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
Photographic Establishment.—Indian Portraits.—Excursion to the “Great Cascade.”—Its Geological Formation.—Bathing Pool.—Parasitic Plants.—Return by the Igarapé.—Public Ball.—Severity in Recruiting, and its Effects.—Collecting Parties.—Scenes of Indian Life.—Fête Champêtre at the “Casa dos Educandos.”—Prison at Manaos.—Prison Discipline on the Amazons.—Extracts from Presidential Reports on this Subject.—Prison at Teffé.—General Character of Brazilian Institutions.—Emperor’s Birthday.—Illumination
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CHAPTER X. EXCURSION TO MAUHES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
CHAPTER X. EXCURSION TO MAUHES AND ITS NEIGHBORHOOD.
Leave Manaos.—On board the “Ibicuhy.”—Navigation of the River Ramos.—Aspect of the Banks.—Arrival at Mauhes.—Situation of Mauhes.—Tupinambaranas.—Character of Population.—Appearance of the Villages of Mauhes.—Bolivian Indians.—Guaranà.—Excursion to Mucaja-Tuba.—Mundurucu Indians.—Aspect of Village.—Church.—Distribution of Presents.—Generosity of the Indians.—Their Indifference.—Visit to another Settlement.—Return to Mauhes.—Arrival of Mundurucus in the Village.—Description of Tattooing.—Collecti
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CHAPTER XI. RETURN TO MANAOS.—EXCURSION ON THE RIO NEGRO.—LEAVE MANAOS.
CHAPTER XI. RETURN TO MANAOS.—EXCURSION ON THE RIO NEGRO.—LEAVE MANAOS.
Christmas Eve at Manaos.—Ceremonies of the Indians.—Churches on the Amazons.—Leave Manaos for the Rio Negro.—Curious River Formation.—Aspect of the River.—Its Vegetation.—Scanty Population.—Village of Taua Péassu.—Padre of the Village.—Palms.—Village of Pedreira.—Indian Camp.—Making Palm-thatch.—Sickness and Want at Pedreira.—Row in the Forest.—Tropical Shower.—Geology of Pedreira.—Indian Recruits.—Collection of Palms.—Extracts from Mr. Agassiz’s Notes on the Vegetation of the Amazons and the Ri
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CHAPTER XII. DESCENDING THE RIVER TO PARÁ.—EXCURSIONS ON THE COAST.
CHAPTER XII. DESCENDING THE RIVER TO PARÁ.—EXCURSIONS ON THE COAST.
Farewell Visit to the Great Cascade at Manaos.—Change in its Aspect.—Arrival at Villa Bella.—Return to the House of the Fisherman Maia.—Excursion to the Lago Maximo.—Quantity of Game And Waterfowl.—Victoria Regia.—Leave Villa Bella.—Arrive at Obydos.—Its Situation and Geology.—Santarem.—Visit to the Church.—Anecdote of Martius.—A Row overland.—Monte Alégre.—Picturesque Scenery.—“Banheiras.”—Excursion into the Country.—Leave Monte Alégre.—Anecdote of Indians.—Almeyrim.—New Geological Facts.—Porto
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CHAPTER XIII. PHYSICAL HISTORY OF THE AMAZONS.
CHAPTER XIII. PHYSICAL HISTORY OF THE AMAZONS.
Drift about Rio de Janeiro.—Decomposition of underlying Rock.—Different Aspect of Glacial Phenomena in different Continents.—Fertility of the Drift.—Geological Observations of Messrs. Hartt and St. John.—Correspondence of Deposits along the Coast with those of Rio and those of the Valley of the Amazons.—Primitive Formation of the Valley.—First known Chapter of its History.—Cretaceous Fossil Fishes.—Former Extent of the South-American Coast.—Cretaceous Fossils from the Rio Purus.—Comparison betwe
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CHAPTER XIV. CEARÁ.
CHAPTER XIV. CEARÁ.
Leaving Pará.—Farewell to the Amazons.—Ease of Travelling on the Amazons.—Rough Passage.—Arrival at Ceará.—Difficulty of Landing.—Aspect of the Town.—Rainy Season.—Consequent Sickliness.—Our Purpose in stopping at Ceará.—Report of Dr. Felice about Moraines.—Preparations for Journey into the Interior.—Difficulties and Delays in getting off.—On the Way.—Night at Arancho.—Bad Roads.—Carnauba Palm.—Arrival at Monguba.—Kind Reception by Senhor Franklin de Lima.—Geology of the Region.—Evening Games an
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CHAPTER XV. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS OF RIO DE JANEIRO.—ORGAN MOUNTAINS.
CHAPTER XV. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS OF RIO DE JANEIRO.—ORGAN MOUNTAINS.
Voyage from Ceará.—Freshets at Pernambuco.—Arrival at Rio.—Collections.—Vegetation about Rio as compared with that on the Amazons.—Misericordia Hospital.—Charities connected with it.—Almsgiving in Brazil.—Insane Asylum.—Military School.—The Mint.—Academy of Fine Arts.—Heroism of a Negro.—Primary School for Girls.—Neglected Education of Women in Brazil.—Blind Asylum.—Lectures.—Character of the Brazilian Audience.—Organ Mountains.—Walk up the Serra.—Theresopolis.—Visit to the “St. Louis” Fazenda.—
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CHAPTER XVI. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF BRAZIL.
CHAPTER XVI. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF BRAZIL.
Religion and Clergy.—Education.—Law, Medical, and Scientific Schools.—High and Common Schools.—Public Library and Museum in Rio de Janeiro.—Historical and Geographical Institute.—Social and Domestic Relations.—Public Functionaries.—Agriculture.—Zones of Vegetation.—Coffee.—Cotton.—Timber and other Products of the Amazons.—Cattle.—Territorial Subdivision of the Great Valley.—Emigration.—Foreigners.—Paraguayan War. I cannot close this book, written for the most part by another hand, without a few
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I.—THE GULF STREAM.
I.—THE GULF STREAM.
As the results of the systematic investigation of the Gulf Stream upon a plan laid out by Dr. A. D. Bache, and executed, under his direction, by his most able assistants, have hardly yet been presented in a popular form, a sketch of the whole may not be out of place here. This investigation embraced not only surface-phenomena, but the whole internal structure and movement of this wonderful current. It is well known that the Gulf Stream has its origin in the equatorial current which, starting fro
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II.—FLYING-FISHES.
II.—FLYING-FISHES.
The motions of animals vary greatly with reference to the medium in which they live. Our present knowledge renders it, however, necessary that we should weigh these differences with reference to the structural character of the organs of locomotion themselves, as well as to that of the peculiar resistance of the element in which they move. When we speak of the flight of Birds, of Insects, of Fishes, of Bats, &c., and designate their locomotive organs indiscriminately as wings, it is evide
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III.—RESOLUTIONS PASSED ON BOARD THE COLORADO.
III.—RESOLUTIONS PASSED ON BOARD THE COLORADO.
Resolved , That the cordial thanks of this meeting are due to Professor Agassiz for the highly interesting and instructive lectures which he has delivered daily during our voyage, and which, though intended more immediately to prepare his party for their proposed expedition, have furnished to all of us a rich repast. Resolved , That the Professor and his companions will carry with them to their beneficent work the earnest prayers and good wishes of all with whom they have been associated on boar
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IV.—DOM PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILROAD.
IV.—DOM PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILROAD.
The part taken by American engineers in this great undertaking induces me to give here a short account of its history. The decree conceding to one or more companies the entire or partial construction of a railway which, commencing in the municipality of Rio de Janeiro, should terminate in such points in the Provinces of Minas and St. Paulo as should be most advantageous, was promulgated in 1852. A company was organized with a capital of thirty-eight thousand Contos of reis, or nineteen millions
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V.—PERMANENCE OF CHARACTERISTICS IN DIFFERENT HUMAN SPECIES.
V.—PERMANENCE OF CHARACTERISTICS IN DIFFERENT HUMAN SPECIES.
As my special object of study in the Amazons had reference to the character and distribution of the fluviatile faunæ, I could not undertake those more accurate investigations of the human races, based upon minute measurements repeated a thousand-fold, which characterize the latest researches of anthropologists. A thorough study of the different nations and cross-breeds inhabiting the Amazonian Valley would require years of observation and patient examination. I was forced to be satisfied with su
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VI.—SKETCH OF SEPARATE JOURNEYS UNDERTAKEN BY DIFFERENT MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION.
VI.—SKETCH OF SEPARATE JOURNEYS UNDERTAKEN BY DIFFERENT MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION.
It is not possible for me to give here at length the narrative of the separate journeys undertaken by my young companions. To do them any justice, their reports should be illustrated by the accompanying maps, geological sections, &c., which are more appropriate in a special scientific account. I trust that I shall hereafter find resources for publishing all these materials in a fitting manner; but, in the mean while, I should do a wrong to my own feelings as well as to my assistants, did
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