The Costume Of China
William Alexander
50 chapters
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50 chapters
PLATE I.FRONTISPIECE.
PLATE I.FRONTISPIECE.
Exhibiting the various kinds of weapons, offensive and defensive, in use among the Chinese infantry, cavalry, artillery, and bowmen, arranged on a stand or frame of wood. One or more of these frames are commonly to be met with at the military posts and at the depôts of arms and guard-houses, close to the gates of their walled cities. China—Plate 2...
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Plate II. KIEN LUNG.
Plate II. KIEN LUNG.
Kien Lung was the fourth Emperor of the Tartar dynasty, which now possesses the throne of China. When the annexed Sketch was taken he was eighty-three years of age, but had all the appearance of a hale, vigorous man of sixty. Indeed his whole life had been spent in the active discharge of public business, and in the violent exercise of hunting and shooting in the wild regions of Tartary, which he continued with unabated zeal almost to the period of life above mentioned. He always commenced publi
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Plate III. THE FISHING CORMORANTS.
Plate III. THE FISHING CORMORANTS.
The Leu-tzé, or fishing cormorant of China, is the pelicanus sinensis , and resembles very much the common cormorant of England, which, we are told by naturalists, was once trained up to catch fish, pretty much in the same manner as those of China are. They are exceedingly expert in taking fish, and pursue them under water with great eagerness. They are taken out, on the rivers and lakes, in boats or bamboo rafts; and though sent on the chace after long fasting, they are so well trained that the
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Plate IV. A MAN SERVANT.
Plate IV. A MAN SERVANT.
We have little to observe on this figure. His dress is pretty nearly that of the class of people to which he belongs. The Chinese are excellent domestic servants, and when honest, which is a quality not common among them, they are invaluable. They are rather slow, and do not like to be put out of their way, but they do their work well and neatly. Every European resident at Canton and Macao has Chinese servants, which on the whole, are preferable to any other race of Orientals. They are sometimes
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Plate V. A MANDARIN IN HIS COURT DRESS.
Plate V. A MANDARIN IN HIS COURT DRESS.
All officers of state, whether civil or military, from the highest to the lowest, have been named by the early Portuguese writers mandarins , from a word in their own language, mandar , to command; and this name, improper as it is, has preserved its ground ever since. The figure of a bird on the embroidered breast-plate of the annexed figure points him out as a civilian. A military officer wears the figure of an animal resembling the tiger. The degree of rank, whether civil or military, is marke
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Plate VI. AN OFFERING IN THE TEMPLE.
Plate VI. AN OFFERING IN THE TEMPLE.
The figure kneeling before the deities mounted on pedestals is a priest of the sect of Fo. He is burning incense, or rather paper that is covered over with some liquid that resembles gold. Sometimes, in lieu of this, tin foil is burnt before the altars of China, and this is the principal use to which the large quantities of tin sent from this country is applied. On the four-legged stool is the pot containing the sticks of fate, and other paraphernalia belonging to the temple, and behind it is th
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Plate VII. A JUGGLER, PERFORMING TRICKS WITH JARS.
Plate VII. A JUGGLER, PERFORMING TRICKS WITH JARS.
This engraving exhibits a posture-master balancing two large China vases, and throwing himself into most extraordinary attitudes; he exhibited a variety of curious postures before the Ambassador, at his lodgings opposite to Canton, and played with the large jars precisely in the same manner as the Indian jugglers, in Pall-mall, toss about the large round stone of twelve or fourteen pounds weight; but those who have seen both are inclined to give the palm to the Chinese. China—Plate 8...
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Plate VIII. CHILDREN COLLECTING MANURE.
Plate VIII. CHILDREN COLLECTING MANURE.
The collecting and preparing of manure of various descriptions, and making it up into cakes for sale, occupy a very considerable population of the lowest class of society, and for the most part is the employment of the aged and children. No agriculturists, perhaps, understand the value of manure better than the Chinese, and certainly none are so well skilled in the economical distribution of it. It is quite ridiculous to see the avidity with which young children follow a traveller on horseback f
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Plate IX. A WATCHMAN.
Plate IX. A WATCHMAN.
The police is so well regulated in all the large cities of China, that disturbances rarely, if ever, happen during the night. The watch is set at nine, and continues till five in the morning. A gate is placed at each end of the cross streets, which are all streight, and at right angles with the main streets; from each gate a watchman proceeds till he meets his brother watchman about the middle; at every half hour he beats the hollow bamboo tube, in his left hand, with the mallet in the right, st
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Plate X. A LADY, AND HER SON.
Plate X. A LADY, AND HER SON.
The annexed print is the representation of a Chinese Lady, and her Son, of a certain rank in life, from which no high ideas will probably be entertained of the taste in dress either of one or the other. Our modern notions of a head-dress, however, approximate those of the Chinese; though it is to be hoped that our ladies will never be brought to imitate the small and mutilated feet of the Chinese women, which disqualify them from the free use of their limbs. China—Plate 11...
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Plate XI. A BONZE.
Plate XI. A BONZE.
The priests of Fo in China are the same as the priests of Boudh are in India, from whence their religion passed into China in the first century of the Christian æra. The temples and the monasteries of China swarm with them; and they practice, ostensibly at least, all the austerities and mortifications of the several orders of monks in Europe, and inflict on themselves the same painful, laborious, and disgusting punishments which the faquirs of India undergo, either for the love of God, as they w
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Plate XII. A VENDER OF LANTERNS.
Plate XII. A VENDER OF LANTERNS.
There is no nation so fond of illuminations and fire-works as the Chinese, and no nation has exerted its skill so effectually in the multitude of contrivances to exhibit light. Their lanterns are as various in shape as in materials. The most common are of painted paper. The most beautiful and ornamental of silk gauze, finely painted and stretched on frames that are not deficient in carving and curious workmanship, and decorated with tassels of silk of various colours. Other lanterns are round an
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Plate XIII. A SOLDIER WITH HIS MATCHLOCK.
Plate XIII. A SOLDIER WITH HIS MATCHLOCK.
The military of China differs, as every thing else differs, from that of all other nations, in the nature of its establishment, its occupation, and its dress. They have two distinct armies, if they may be so called; the one composed entirely of Tartars, who are stationed in the several provinces on the Tartar frontier, and occupy all the garrison towns of the empire; the other composed of Chinese, who are parcelled out in the smaller towns and hamlets to keep the peace, by acting as constables,
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Plate XIV. A PORTER CARRYING GOODS.
Plate XIV. A PORTER CARRYING GOODS.
It has long been known that the ingenious Chinese, taking advantage of the constancy with which the wind blows in the same direction, applied a sail to assist the progress of their land carriages; but the late British Embassy has furnished us with the precise manner in which these sails are applied, and it appears that they are meant only to aid a sort of wheelbarrow, different however in its structure; that in the present drawing resembling very much the same machine which is used in the Wester
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Plate XV. A MANDARIN IN HIS COMMON DRESS.
Plate XV. A MANDARIN IN HIS COMMON DRESS.
The official habits in which all the mandarins are compelled to appear in public being made of the thickest silk, are exceedingly cumbersome, and not well adapted for the summer months, which are excessively hot even in the most northerly provinces; they therefore in private take every opportunity of throwing off their ceremonial garb, and assume a thin loose gown, tied with a belt round the waist. Their summer-hat is also made of light rice straw. The head is not encumbered with hair, which all
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Plate XVI. A BOAT GIRL.
Plate XVI. A BOAT GIRL.
On all the rivers and canals of China a vast number of families live entirely in their boats, and the women are generally quite as efficient navigators as the men, particularly in rowing and steering. Their dress differs very little from that of the men, except about the head, on which the hair is suffered to grow freely, and is sometimes plaited behind like that of the men, as in this figure, but more frequently tied up in a knot upon the crown of the head. Among persons of this description the
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Plate XVII. A COMMON SEDAN CHAIR.
Plate XVII. A COMMON SEDAN CHAIR.
This is one of the most common of sedan chairs, used by the peasantry; though there are others still meaner, and without any covering over head. The wages of labour are so low, and the price of provisions so cheap, that any man above a common labourer can afford to be carried in his chair. China—Plate 18...
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Plate XVIII. A MANDARIN’S SERVANT ON HORSEBACK.
Plate XVIII. A MANDARIN’S SERVANT ON HORSEBACK.
The annexed is a portrait of a true Tartar horse, which seems to be pretty much of the same breed as those of the Cossacks. The Chinese horses are precisely of the same kind. In fact, no pains whatever appear to be taken either for improving the breed, or by attention to their food, cleanliness, or regular exercise, to increase the size, strength, or spirit of the animal. A currycomb, or any substitute for it, is unknown in China. Indeed horses are not much in use. Wherever the nature of the cou
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Plate XIX. AN ITINERANT MUSICIAN.
Plate XIX. AN ITINERANT MUSICIAN.
The Chinese have full as great a variety of musical instruments as most other nations, but they are all of them indifferent, and the music, if it may be so called, produced out of them, execrable. The merit of our travelling musician consists in beating a sort of tambourine, or rather a shallow kettle-drum, with a mallet held between the toes of one foot, while he strikes a pair of cymbals with the other, and, at the same time plays upon a sort of guitar accompanied by his voice. It would seem a
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Plate XX. AN OFFICER OF THE CORPS OF BOWMEN.
Plate XX. AN OFFICER OF THE CORPS OF BOWMEN.
The original weapon of the Chinese, which by the way seems to be the offensive arms of most savages, is the bow. It is still preferred by them to the matchlock; and the Tartars are so fond of it, that it forms an essential part of the education of the young princes of the blood. Their bows are large, and require a considerable degree of strength, as well as a peculiar knack to string them. Even the Emperor wears a ring of agate on the right thumb for the string to press against in drawing the bo
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Plate XXI. A CHINESE MENDICANT.
Plate XXI. A CHINESE MENDICANT.
Begging is by no means a profitable trade in China, and few therefore pursue it except the monks of Fo and Tao-tzé, and a few impostors who go about pretending to foretell events and predict good or ill fortune. The annexed is the representation of a beggar of a different description. The piece of hollow wood in his hand is struck to draw attention, and the label on his back describes his condition, which is not exactly such as in other countries would excite much compassion. It states his unfor
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Plate XXII. CHINESE BARBERS CHAMPOOING, &c.
Plate XXII. CHINESE BARBERS CHAMPOOING, &c.
Throughout all the East, in India as well as in China, the luxury of champooing is enjoyed by all ranks of men; it consists of pulling the joints until they crack, and of thumping the muscles until they are sore; it is generally an operation performed by the barbers, who at the same time cleanse the ears, tickle the nose, and play a thousand tricks to please and amuse their customers, to whom and the surrounding audience they tell their gossiping stories. Of their merit in this respect we have a
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Plate XXIII. A BOOKSELLER.
Plate XXIII. A BOOKSELLER.
In so arbitrary a government as that of China, it would scarcely be supposed that the press should be free; that is to say, that every one who chooses it may follow the profession of a printer or a bookseller without any previous licence, or without submitting the works he may print or expose for sale to any censor appointed by government; but then he must take his chance to suffer in his person all the consequences that may result from the impression that may be made on the minds of the civil o
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Plate XXIV. A SOLDIER OF INFANTRY.
Plate XXIV. A SOLDIER OF INFANTRY.
The annexed figure, either from the striped dress, or the furious looking head painted on the shield, has been called a tiger of war; but he is not so fierce as he appears to be, or as the name would imply; indeed the Chinese admit that the monstrous face, on the basket-work shield, is intended to frighten the enemy, and make him run away; like another Gorgon’s head to petrify those who look upon it. This corps of infantry, in its exercise, assumes all kinds of whimsical attitudes, jumping about
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Plate XXV. A RAREE SHOW.
Plate XXV. A RAREE SHOW.
There is every reason to believe, that Punch and his wife were originally natives of China; and that all our puppet-shows were brought from that country. The little theatre, above the head of a man concealed behind a curtain, is precisely Chinese. Les ombres Chinoises still bear the name of their inventors; but the annexed representation of a puppet-showman is somewhat different from both, and is the simple origin of the Fantoccini , which consists in giving motion to the puppets, by means of sp
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Plate XXVI. A MANDARIN’S PAGE.
Plate XXVI. A MANDARIN’S PAGE.
We have not much to observe with respect to the annexed figure. He is the page or body servant of a mandarin, to carry his papers, his writing apparatus, the cushion on which he sits, or lays his head; he takes care of his areca-box and his tobacco pipe, attends him on all occasions, fans him while asleep; and, if report speaks truth, serves him for other unworthy purposes. Every mandarin has one or more of these kind of boys whom, even in public, they treat with a familiarity which is not quite
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Plate XXVII. A TRAVELLING SMITH.
Plate XXVII. A TRAVELLING SMITH.
It is a peculiar feature in all the Oriental nations, that the most beautiful specimens of workmanship in the various arts are made with the most simple and at the same time most clumsy tools. The artificers moreover are rarely fixed, or settled in a workshop convenient for their purposes, but generally travel about the country carrying their shop and apparatus with them. The annexed figure represents an itinerant smith, who has more tools than almost any other artificer of China, and yet perfor
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Plate XXVIII. VISIT TO THE GRAVE OF A RELATION.
Plate XXVIII. VISIT TO THE GRAVE OF A RELATION.
Filial piety in China extends beyond the grave. Every year at certain periods dutiful children assemble at the tomb of their parents or ancestors, to make oblations of flowers, or fruit, or pieces of gilt paper, or whatever else they consider as likely to be acceptable to the manes of the departed. Their mourning dress consists of a garment of Nanquin cotton, or canvas, of the coarsest kind. Some of the monuments erected over the dead are by no means inelegant; like their bridges and triumphal a
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Plate XXIX. A SELLER OF RICE.
Plate XXIX. A SELLER OF RICE.
Almost every necessary of life, and many articles that are not of that description, are carried about the streets for sale, and the invariable mode of bearing burthens of this kind is in baskets or boxes suspended from the two extremities of a bamboo lath, swung across the back part of the shoulder. If a Chinese should only have one basket to carry, he is sure to get a log of wood, or a large stone to counterpoise it at the opposite end, thus preferring to carry a double weight rather than place
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Plate XXX. A FEMALE COMEDIAN.
Plate XXX. A FEMALE COMEDIAN.
It is, perhaps, more proper to call the annexed figure, the representation of a person in the character of a female comedian, than “a female comedian,” as women have been prohibited from appearing publicly on the stage since the late Emperor, Kien Lung, took an actress for one of his inferior wives. Female characters are now therefore performed either by boys or eunuchs. The whole dress is supposed to be that of the ancient Chinese, and indeed is not very different from that of the present day.
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Plate XXXI. A SEDAN BEARER.
Plate XXXI. A SEDAN BEARER.
Whenever the Emperor of China goes in state to transact public business, to receive ambassadors, or to hold a court, he is carried in the same kind of a sedan chair as are commonly used in Europe, and which, as well as umbrellas, have obviously been first introduced from China. The soft luxury of an Indian palanquin is unknown to the Chinese. By means of poles attached to each other the Emperor’s chair, on grand occasions, is carried by eight pair of bearers, sometimes by four pair, but on ordin
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Plate XXXII. A MAN SELLING BETEL, &c.
Plate XXXII. A MAN SELLING BETEL, &c.
The practice of smoking tobacco is not more common, at least in the southern provinces of China, than that of chewing the areca nut, mixed with chunam, or lime made of shells, and wrapped up in a leaf of the betel pepper. Indeed this compound masticatory is in universal use throughout all India, the Oriental Islands, Cochin-china, and Tonquin. In addition to the little purse which every Chinese wears suspended from his belt as an appendage to his tobacco pipe and to hold the ingredients for smok
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Plate XXXIII. A CHINESE CARRIAGE.
Plate XXXIII. A CHINESE CARRIAGE.
This machine, like a baker’s cart, is the kind of wheel carriage which is most common in the country, and such as even the high officers of state ride in, when performing land journies in bad weather, and the driver invariably sits on the shaft in the aukward manner here represented. They have no springs, nor any seat in the inside, the persons using them always sitting cross-legged on a cushion at the bottom. In these carts the gentlemen of Lord Macartney’s embassy who had not horses, were acco
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Plate XXXIV. A MAN WITH PIPES FOR SALE.
Plate XXXIV. A MAN WITH PIPES FOR SALE.
The very general use of tobacco throughout the whole extensive empire of China, and the still more extensive regions of Tartary, would seem to contradict the commonly received opinion, that this herb is indigenous only in America. One can hardly suppose that the Chinese, who are so remarkably averse from the introduction of any thing novel, would, in the course of three centuries, have brought the custom of smoking into universal use; yet so it is; men of all ranks and all ages; women, whatever
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Plate XXXV. A WATERMAN IN HIS BARGE.
Plate XXXV. A WATERMAN IN HIS BARGE.
Some millions of Chinese live entirely on the water, in boats and barges of various kinds, some occupied in carrying articles of provisions and merchandize, others in conveying passengers, some in feeding and rearing ducks, and others in fishing. Some of these vessels have masts and sails, others are forced forwards with large sculls or pushed on with poles, some are dragged along by men, and others, but very rarely, by horses. Near the head of each vessel is suspended in some convenient place,
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Plate XXXVI. A TRADESMAN WITH HIS SWAN-PAN.
Plate XXXVI. A TRADESMAN WITH HIS SWAN-PAN.
The Chinese merchants and tradesmen are most expert and ready reckoners; but they perform all arithmetical operations mechanically, by means of a table divided into two compartments, through which pass iron wires; and on these wires are strung in one compartment five, and in the other two, moveable balls. The principle is something of the same kind as that of the abacus of the Romans, and is with some little variation still made use of in Russia. It has been observed, that in weighing several th
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Plate XXXVII. FEMALE PEASANT.
Plate XXXVII. FEMALE PEASANT.
Blue or brown cotton frocks with green or yellow trowsers are the ordinary dresses of the female peasantry, all of whom, except such as labour in the field or the fisheries, have the vanity to cramp their feet, in imitation of their superiors. Those in the print are employed in winding cotton yarn. They are, in general, ill featured, and their countenance void of expression. China—Plate 38...
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Plate XXXVIII. A TARTAR DRAGOON.
Plate XXXVIII. A TARTAR DRAGOON.
Of the Tartar horse another specimen has been given in this work. This represents a Tartar dragoon armed with the common instruments, the bow, and a short sabre. This corps is probably of little use beyond that of carrying dispatches, and assisting in the imperial hunts in the forests of Tartary. All the cavalry that were seen by the British Embassy had a mean, irregular, and most unsoldierlike appearance. China—Plate 39...
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Plate XXXIX. PUNISHMENT OF THE TCHA, OR CANGUE.
Plate XXXIX. PUNISHMENT OF THE TCHA, OR CANGUE.
The punishment of the cangue may be compared to that of our pillory, with this difference, that in China a person convicted of petty crimes or misdemeanours is sometimes sentenced to carry the wooden clog about his neck for weeks, or even months; sometimes one hand, or even both hands, are inserted through holes, as well as the neck. The annexed representation is not a common one, and far less painful than the plain heavy tablet of wood, the whole weight of which must be supported on the shoulde
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Plate XL. CHILDREN EATING THEIR MEAL.
Plate XL. CHILDREN EATING THEIR MEAL.
Among the peasantry and labouring people of China, all are cooks. A little earthen-ware stove and an iron pan is all that is required. Rice is their principal food, which is simply boiled, and then a little fat of pork or a salt fish put into the pan to mix with it and give it a relish; they drink little else besides water, which is usually carried about in a gourd slung on the back; and they require no table nor chairs. Each person has his bowl and his chop-sticks, and squatting down on his hau
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Plate XLI. A SEDAN CHAIR.
Plate XLI. A SEDAN CHAIR.
The vehicles of this description are nearly as various in the different provinces of China, and among the different ranks of inhabitants, as their boats and barges are. The one here engraved belongs to a person in a certain rank of life, probably an inferior mandarin. It will be observed that, instead of carrying the poles in the hands, as we do, the Chinese carry the chairs on the shoulders by means of a cross-bar fixed to the poles by straps: but different kinds of chairs are carried in differ
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Plate XLII. VIEW ON THE GREAT CANAL.
Plate XLII. VIEW ON THE GREAT CANAL.
The grand canal of China, or rather the water communication between the northern and southern extremities of the empire by a succession of canals and rivers, is certainly the first inland navigation in the world. The multitude of vessels, of every size and shape, is not to be estimated. The large one in the print is one of those which carried the British embassador and his suite up the Pei-ho to the neighbourhood of Pekin, which were in every respect comfortable and commodious. On passing bridge
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Plate XLIII. A CHINESE LADY OF RANK.
Plate XLIII. A CHINESE LADY OF RANK.
If we except the unnatural custom of maiming the feet, which swells and distorts the ankles, and wrapping the latter up in bandages, the dress of Chinese ladies in the upper ranks of life is by no means unbecoming. In the head dress, in particular, they sometimes exhibit great taste, and great variety; and the materials of which their garments are made, and especially those parts of them which consist of their own embroidering, are exceedingly beautiful. Confined by education in their mental acq
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Plate XLIV. A NURSERY MAID AND TWO CHILDREN.
Plate XLIV. A NURSERY MAID AND TWO CHILDREN.
The annexed are portraits of a female servant, and of a male and female child, which will give a tolerably correct idea of the dresses worn by them respectively. That of the maid servant differs in nothing from her mistress, but in the materials; the latter generally wearing silk, and the one in question cotton. A Chinese woman of the meanest condition would feel herself degraded if not allowed to mutilate her feet. China—Plate 45...
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Plate XLV. A STAGE PLAYER.
Plate XLV. A STAGE PLAYER.
By the military emblem on the breast-plate, the annexed figure of a stage player must be intended to represent a great general or some military hero famous in the annals of China. Noisy music and extravagant gestures are the characteristic features of the Chinese stage, of which it would lead us into too long a detail to convey any intelligible account; and we prefer, therefore, to refer to the curious and interesting descriptions which have been furnished on this subject by Lord Macartney, Sir
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Plate XLVI. TRACKERS REGALING.
Plate XLVI. TRACKERS REGALING.
There is little to observe on the annexed engraving. It represents a groupe of the common peasantry of the country eating their rice. The particular employment of these, here designated, is that of tracking barges on the canals; the pieces of wood lying by them being those which they place across the chest to drag forward the vessels. It will be seen from the other prints, that the common mode of carrying burthens is that of swinging baskets from the two extremities of a bamboo, which is laid by
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Plate XLVII. A MANDARIN’S OFFICER.
Plate XLVII. A MANDARIN’S OFFICER.
This gentleman is a sort of appendage to a man in power. Some half-dozen of them generally precede a mandarin of rank when he goes in procession, but more especially when he attends a tribunal of justice. Their peculiar province seems to be that of keeping off the crowd. The feathers they wear in their tall conical hats are from three to six feet in length, and are apparently the tail feathers of a peculiar species of pheasant, which is represented as very scarce. Some of them wear the tail feat
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Plate XLVIII. PUNISHMENT FOR INSOLENCE TO A SUPERIOR.
Plate XLVIII. PUNISHMENT FOR INSOLENCE TO A SUPERIOR.
Piercing the ear with various sharp instruments is among the punishments of the Chinese. A man who had been insolent to one of the suite of Lord Macartney’s embassy, was sentenced to receive fifty strokes from the pant-zee or bamboo, in addition to having his hand pinned to his ear by an iron wire, which was said to have been inflicted immediately after the bastinade. The middle figure is an inferior officer of the police, who holds a painted board on which the crime is exhibited to spectators;
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Plate XLIX. WOMAN SELLING CHOW-CHOW.
Plate XLIX. WOMAN SELLING CHOW-CHOW.
There is little more to be observed of the present engraving than this: that whatever wares, goods, or merchandize are exposed to sale in the open air, which in the open plains, as well in the broad streets of cities, is very much the case, the vender and the articles themselves are, during the summer months, protected from the rays of the sun by a large umbrella, which is generally square, like that in the print. Some hundreds of similar stands and umbrellas were displayed on a plain near the s
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Plate L. A MILITARY POST.
Plate L. A MILITARY POST.
At certain distances, more or less remote according to the nature of the country, along the roads, and the banks of the interior navigations, are placed small parties of soldiers from five or six to a dozen, and sometimes more. They are employed in conveying the public dispatches, and in assisting the magistrates to quell disturbances. The immense army of China is for the most part parcelled out in this way. Near each of these posts is a tall wooden building from whence they can see and communic
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