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Collins' Illustrated Guide To London And Neighbourhood

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COLLINS’ ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD:

COLLINS’ ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON AND NEIGHBOURHOOD:

BEING A CONCISE DESCRIPTION OF THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST IN THE METROPOLIS, AND THE BEST MODES OF OBTAINING ACCESS TO THEM: WITH INFORMATION RELATING TO RAILWAYS, OMNIBUSES, STEAMERS, &amp;c. With fifty-eight Illustrations by Sargent and others, AND A CLUE-MAP BY BARTHOLOMEW . LONDON: WILLIAM COLLINS, SONS, AND COMPANY, 17 WARWICK SQUARE, PATERNOSTER ROW. 1873....

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PREFACE.

PREFACE.

In this work an attempt is made to furnish Strangers with a handy and useful Guide to the chief objects of interest in the Metropolis and its Environs: comprising also much that will be interesting to permanent Residents. After a few pages of General Description, the various Buildings and other places of attraction are treated in convenient groups or sections, according to their nature. Short Excursions from the Metropolis are then noticed. Tables, lists, and serviceable information concernin

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HOTEL CHARGES.

HOTEL CHARGES.

There is only one class of hotels in and near London of which the charges can be stated with any degree of precision. The old hotels, both at the West-End and in the City, keep no printed tariff; they are not accustomed even to be asked beforehand what are their charges. Most of the visitors are more or less recommended by guests who have already sojourned at these establishments, and who can give information as to what they have paid. Some of the hotels decline to receive guests except by pr

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COLLINS’ ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON.

COLLINS’ ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO LONDON.

Whether we consider London as the metropolis of a great and mighty empire, upon the dominions of whose sovereign the sun never sets, or as the home of more than three millions of people, and the richest city in the world to boot, it must ever be a place which strangers wish to visit. In these days of railways and steamers, the toil and cost of reaching it are, comparatively speaking, small; and, such being the case, the supply of visitors has very naturally been adjusted to the everyday increas

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GENERAL DESCRIPTION.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION.

Without cumbering our narrative with the fables of dim legendary lore, with regard to the origin of London—or Llyn-Din , “the town on the lake,”—we may mention, that the Romans, after conquering its ancient British inhabitants, about a.d. 61, finally rebuilt and walled it in about a.d. 301; from which time it became, in such excellent hands, a place of not a little importance. Roman remains, such as fine tesselated pavements, bronzes, weapons, pottery, and coins, are not seldom turned up by the

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A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY.

A FIRST GLANCE AT THE CITY.

London is too vast a place to be traversed in the limited time which strangers usually have at their disposal. Nevertheless, we may rapidly survey the main lines of route from east to west, with some of the branching offshoots. All the more important buildings, and places of public interest, will be found specially described under the headings to which they properly belong. The most striking view in the interior of the city is at the open central space whence Threadneedle Street, Cornhill, Lom

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A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST END.

A FIRST GLANCE AT THE WEST END.

The Strand—so called because it lies along the bank of the river, now hidden by houses—is a long, somewhat irregularly built street, in continuation westward from Temple Bar; the thoroughfare being incommoded by two churches—St. Clement Dane’s and St. Mary’s—in the middle of the road. On the site of the latter church once stood the old Strand Maypole. The new Palace of Justice , about whose site there have been so many Parliamentary discussions, will stand on what is at present a huge unsightl

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PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.

PALACES AND MANSIONS, ROYAL AND NOBLE.

St. James’s Palace and Park. (Green Park in the distance.) These two preliminary glances at the City and the West End having (as we will suppose) given the visitor some general idea of the Metropolis, we now proceed to describe the chief buildings and places of interest, conveniently grouped according to their character—beginning with Palatial Residences . St. James’s Palace .—This is an inelegant brick structure, having its front towards Pall Mall. Henry VIII. built it in 1530, on the site of

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HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT OFFICES.

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT; WESTMINSTER HALL; GOVERNMENT OFFICES.

Houses of Parliament .—This is the name usually given to the New Palace of Westminster , which is not only Sir Charles Barry’s greatest work, but is in all respects one of the most remarkable structures of the age. The building, which occupies a site close to the river, and close also to the beautiful new Westminster Bridge, was constructed in consequence of the burning of the old Houses of Parliament in 1834. It is perhaps the finest modern Gothic structure in the world—at least for civil pur

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ST. PAUL’S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS; CEMETERIES.

ST. PAUL’S; WESTMINSTER ABBEY; CHURCHES; CHAPELS; CEMETERIES.

St. Paul’s Cathedral .—This is the most prominent object in the metropolis. The lofty dome, seen for miles around, stands in the centre of an enclosed churchyard of limited dimensions, at the head of Ludgate Hill. A church is said to have existed here four hundred years before the Norman conquest; and, under various shapes and extensions, it remained till destroyed by the Great Fire of London in 1666. An entirely new edifice was then erected in its stead, the important work being committed to

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BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

BRITISH AND SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUMS; SCIENTIFIC ESTABLISHMENTS.

British Museum .—This is a great national establishment, containing a vast and constantly-increasing collection of books, maps, drawings, prints, sculptures, antiquities, and natural curiosities. It occupies a most extensive suite of buildings in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, commenced in 1823, and not even now finished. The sum spent on them is little less than £1,000,000. Sir Richard Smirke was the architect. The principal, or south front, 370 feet long, presents a range of 44 columns,

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NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS.

NATIONAL GALLERY; ROYAL ACADEMY; ART EXHIBITIONS.

National Gallery .—This building, in Trafalgar Square, is the chief depository of the pictures belonging to the nation. In 1824, the Government purchased the Angerstein collection of 38 pictures, for £57,000, and exhibited it for a time at a house in Pall Mall. The present structure was finished in 1838, at a cost of about £100,000, from the designs of Mr. Wilkins. Since that year till 1869, the Royal Academy occupied the eastern half, and the National Gallery the western. In the last-named

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COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES.

COLLEGES; SCHOOLS; HOSPITALS; CHARITIES.

London, as may well be imagined, is largely supplied with institutions tending to the proper care of the young, the aged, the sick, and the impoverished. A few of the more important among them are worthy of the attention of strangers. Colleges .—The two chief colleges in London are connected with the London University . This University is a body of persons, not (as many suppose) a building. The body was established in 1837, to confer degrees on the students or graduates of many different coll

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THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL POST OFFICE.

THE TOWER; THE MINT; THE CUSTOM HOUSE; THE GENERAL POST OFFICE.

This section treats of four important government buildings situated in the eastern half of the metropolis. The Tower of London .—This famous structure, or rather group of structures, is a cluster of houses, towers, barracks, armouries, warehouses, and prison-like edifices, situated on the north bank of the Thames, and separated from the crowded narrow streets of the city by an open space of ground called Tower-hill. The Tower was founded by William the Conqueror, probably on the site of an olde

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THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL EXCHANGE.

THE CORPORATION; MANSION HOUSE; GUILDHALL; MONUMENT; ROYAL EXCHANGE.

It will be convenient to group here certain buildings belonging to the Corporation of London; and to prefix to a notice of them some account of the mode in which the city of London is governed. The Corporation .—With respect to civic jurisdiction, the city of London is governed in a peculiar manner. In virtue of ancient charters and privileges, the city is a species of independent community, governed by its own laws and functionaries. While all other boroughs have been reformed in their consti

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THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS.

THE TEMPLE; INNS OF COURT; COURTS OF JUSTICE; PRISONS.

The buildings noticed in this section belong partly to the crown, partly to the corporation of London, and partly to other bodies. The Temple .—Contiguous to the south side of Fleet Street is a most extensive series of buildings, comprising several squares and rows, called the Temple ; belonging to the members of two societies, the Inner and Middle Temple , consisting of benchers, barristers, and students. This famous old place, taken in its completeness, was, in 1184, the metropolitan residenc

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BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY COMPANIES.

BANKS; INSURANCE OFFICES; STOCK EXCHANGE; CITY COMPANIES.

Bank of England .—This large establishment is situated north of the Royal Exchange; the narrow thoroughfare between being Threadneedle Street , in which is the principal front. This is unquestionably the greatest bank in the world. The present structure was mostly the work of Sir John Soane, at various periods between 1788 and 1829. About 1,000 clerks, messengers, &amp;c., are employed here, at salaries varying from £50 to £1,200 per annum. The buildings of the Bank are low, but remarkab

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THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS.

THE RIVER; DOCKS; THAMES TUNNEL; BRIDGES; PIERS.

We shall next describe certain features connected with traffic on , under , and over the Thames. The River and its Shipping .—The Thames stream rises in the interior of the country, at the distance of 138 miles above London, and enters the sea on the east coast about sixty miles below it. It comes flowing between low, fertile, and village-clad banks, out of a richly ornamented country on the west; and, arriving at the outmost suburbs of the metropolis, it pursues a winding course, between banks

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FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS.

FOOD SUPPLY; MARKETS; BAZAARS; SHOPS.

Food Supply .—The Quarterly Review , on one occasion, illustrated, in a whimsical way, the vastness of the system. The following is described as the supply of meat, poultry, bread, and beer, for one year:—72 miles of oxen, 10 abreast; 120 miles of sheep, do.; 7 miles of calves, do.; 9 miles of pigs, do.; 50 acres of poultry, close together; 20 miles of hares and rabbits, 100 abreast; a pyramid of loaves of bread, 600 feet square, and thrice the height of St. Paul’s; 1000 columns of hogsheads of

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CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS; COFFEE-HOUSES; COFFEE-SHOPS.

CLUBS; HOTELS; INNS; CHOP-HOUSES; TAVERNS; COFFEE-HOUSES; COFFEE-SHOPS.

Club-houses .—During the last forty or fifty years new habits amongst the upper classes have led to the establishment of a variety of Club-houses —places of resort unknown to our ancestors. There are at present, including many fifth-rate clubs, about 84 clubs in London. A London club-house is either the property of a private person, who engages to furnish subscribers with certain accommodation, on paying a fixed sum as entrance-money, and a specified annual subscription; or else it belongs to

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THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.

THEATRES, CONCERTS, AND OTHER PLACES OF AMUSEMENT.

Theatres .—There are altogether in London a large number. Of these the following are the principal:— Her Majesty’s Theatre , on the western side of the Haymarket, is the original of the two Italian Opera Houses in London; it was built in 1790, on the site of an older theatre, burnt down in 1867, and re-built in 1869. It is occasionally unoccupied. The freehold of some of the boxes has been sold for as much as £8,000 each. The Opera Season is generally from March to August; but the main attra

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PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND HORTICULTURAL GARDENS.

PARKS AND PUBLIC GROUNDS; ZOOLOGICAL, BOTANICAL, AND HORTICULTURAL GARDENS.

Much has been done within the last few years towards adorning the metropolis with health-giving parks and grounds freely open to the public. The gardens of three scientific societies, gradually brought into a very attractive state, are also accessible, though not without payment. St. James’s Park .—This is so called from St. James’s Palace, which partly bounds it on the north. Originally these grounds were a marshy waste, which was drained and otherwise improved by Henry VIII.; who also took d

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OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.

OMNIBUSES; TRAMWAYS; CABS; RAILWAYS; STEAMERS.

Omnibuses .—Very few indeed of the regular old-fashioned coaches are now to be seen in London. Most of the places within twenty miles of the metropolis, on every side, are supplied with omnibuses instead. The first omnibus was started by Mr. Shillibeer, from Paddington to the Bank, July 4, 1829. From a return with which, by the courtesy of Colonel Henderson, C.B., Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police, Scotland Yard, we were kindly favoured, we gathered, that up to date of the communication

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UP THE RIVER.

UP THE RIVER.

Chelsea Hospital Chelsea .—Chelsea, once a village, is now a part of the metropolis, Pimlico and Belgravia having supplied the intervening link. During the last century a pleasant ramble across the fields was much in favour to the Chelsea bunhouse ; but no one thinks of Chelsea now, except as part of London. Sloane Square and Street, and Hans Place, were named after Sir Hans Sloane, who lived in that neighbourhood. The chief place of interest at Chelsea is the Hospital for retired invalid sol

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DOWN THE RIVER.

DOWN THE RIVER.

Deptford .—This was once of some importance as a shipbuilding place, a dockyard having been established here ever since the time of Henry VIII.; but the government establishments have recently been given up to the victualling and store departments. Deptford may now be considered part of the metropolis—and a very dirty part it is, containing few objects that would interest a stranger. Peter the Great of Russia studied as a shipwright at Deptford dockyard in 1698, to fit himself for creating a R

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CRYSTAL PALACE, &c.

CRYSTAL PALACE, &c.

There are many pretty spots in different directions in the vicinity of London, away from the river, worthy of a visit. On the north-west are Hampstead , with its noble Heath and its charming variety of landscape scenery; and Harrow , with its famous old school, associated with the memory of Byron, Peel, and many other eminent men. To its churchyard Byron was a frequent visitor: “There is,” he wrote to a friend in after years, “a spot in the churchyard, near the footpath on the brow of the hill

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Suburban Towns and Villages within Twelve Miles’ Railway-distance.

Suburban Towns and Villages within Twelve Miles’ Railway-distance.

The distances are measured from the terminal stations of the great Companies’ lines. The names of these stations are abbreviated thus: Padd. —Paddington; Great Western. Eust. —Euston Square; London and North Western. K. C. —King’s Cross; Great Northern. Shore. —Shoreditch; Great Eastern. Fen. —Fenchurch Street; London and Blackwall. L. B. —London Bridge; South-Eastern, and London and Brighton. Wat. —Waterloo; London and South-Western. Vic. —Victoria or Pimlico; Crystal Palace and other railways

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CHIEF OMNIBUS ROUTES.

CHIEF OMNIBUS ROUTES.

There are few better ways for a man to see London, on a fine day, than by riding through it on an omnibus. These vehicles mostly begin to run about 8.30–9 a.m., and cease about 12 p.m. To give more than a mere general notion as regards a few of the chief omnibus routes, is impossible in our limited space here. The fares range, for the most part, from a minimum of 2d. to a maximum of 6d. They are painted inside the omnibus: the main localities passed on the way, outside. The groups of these

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LONDON TRAMWAYS.

LONDON TRAMWAYS.

There are now three Tramway Companies in London:—1. The Metropolitan Street Tramways Company , ( Limited .) They run regularly from Westminster Bridge to Clapham and Brixton, at about every 5 minutes from each terminus, Fare 3d. 2. North Metropolitan Tramways Company : (1) From Aldgate, along Whitechapel and Mile End Road (through Bow) to Stratford Church; (2) From Moorgate Street to the Angel, Islington, thence to Kingsland, Stoke Newington, &amp;c. Both running every 5 minutes, Fares

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CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.

CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.

There are, in all, in London, about ninety. The following is a list of the principal club-houses:— Alpine 8 St. Martin’s Place, Trafalgar Square. Army and Navy 36 to 39 Pall Mall, S. W. Arthur’s 69 and 70 St. James’s Street. Arundel 12 Salisbury Street, Strand. Athenæum 107 Pall Mall. Brooks’s 59 Carlton 94 City Carlton 83 King William Street, E.C. Cavendish 307 Regent Street. City of London 19 Old Broad Street, City. Conservative 74 St. James’s Street. East India United Service 14 St. James’s

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THE LONDON PARCELS DELIVERY COMPANY.

THE LONDON PARCELS DELIVERY COMPANY.

This Company—whose chief office is in Roll’s Buildings, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street, and whose minor receiving houses, at shops, &amp;c., are very numerous—delivers parcels at a tariff of 4d. if under 4 lbs. weight, and within three miles distance; under 14 lbs. within a like range, 6d.; and so on up to a cwt., which will be delivered for 1s. 2d., subject to the aforesaid condition. Over three miles distance, the charge for delivering a parcel under 1 lb. to any part of London and its environ

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MONEY-ORDER OFFICES, AND POST-OFFICE SAVINGS-BANKS.

MONEY-ORDER OFFICES, AND POST-OFFICE SAVINGS-BANKS.

The London Postal District , to which special rules relate, includes every town and village within twelve miles of the General Post-office. Reference has already been made to the number of post-offices, receiving-houses, and pillar-boxes, in this area. There are 500 Money-order Offices , the whole of which (with a very few exceptions) have within a recent period been made Post-office Savings-banks also. The facilities thus afforded to strangers visiting London for a few days, for receiving or

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LONDON LETTERS, POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH SYSTEM.

LONDON LETTERS, POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH SYSTEM.

As just stated, the London District Post operates within twelve miles of the General Post-office: that is, within a circle of twenty-four miles in diameter. There are a few outlying patches beyond this circle, but they need not here be taken into account. This large area is now divided into eight Postal Districts , each of which has a name, an initial abbreviation, and a chief office. They are as follows:— E. C. Eastern Central St. Martin’s-le-Grand, (head office.) W. C. Western Central 126 H

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READING AND NEWS-ROOMS.

READING AND NEWS-ROOMS.

Jerusalem Coffee-house, Cowper’s Court, Cornhill, (Indian, China, and Australian newspapers.) 3 Wallbrook. 154 Leadenhall Street, (Deacon’s.) 13 Philpot Lane. Royal Exchange, Lloyds’, (Subscribers only.) King’s Head, Fenchurch Street. 26 Fore Street, Cripplegate. 88 Park Street, Camden Town. 83 Lower Thames Street. 177, 178 Fleet Street, (Peele’s—files of the Times for many years.) 24 King William Street, (Wild’s.) 34 Mount Street, Grosvenor Square, (St. George’s.) 22 Paddington Green, (Working

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CHESS ROOMS.

CHESS ROOMS.

A chess player may meet with competitors at any one of the several chess rooms. The best are Simpson’s, (Limited Co.,) late Ries’s, Divan , opposite Exeter Hall, Strand; Kilpack’s, Covent Garden, (also an American Bowling Saloon;) and Pursell’s, Cornhill. Many Coffee-shops are provided with chess-boards and men, and many dining and chop houses have chess-rooms up-stairs....

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THEATRES.

THEATRES.

There are at present about thirty-seven London Theatres, but those named below are all that need here be considered. Adelphi Strand. Alhambra Leicester Square. Astley’s Amphitheatre 6½ Bridge Road, Lambeth. Royal Amphitheatre Holborn. Britannia Theatre Hoxton Old Town. Charing Cross King William Street, Strand. City of London 36 Norton Folgate. Covent Garden, (Opera House) Bow Street. Court Theatre Sloane Square. Drury Lane Brydges Street. Gaiety Strand. Garrick Leman Street, Goodman’s Fields. G

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CONCERT ROOMS.

CONCERT ROOMS.

Willis’s Rooms, King Street, St. James’s. Hanover Square Rooms. Exeter Hall, 372 Strand, Choral Societies, Sacred Harmonic, &amp;c. St. James’s Hall, Quadrant and Piccadilly,—Concerts occasionally. 16 Store Street, Bedford Square, „ „ St. George’s Hall, Langham Place. Princess’s Concert Room, Princess’s Theatre,—Concerts occasionally. Queen’s Concert Room, (attached to Her Majesty’s Theatre,)—Concerts occasionally. Myddleton Hall, Upper Street, Islington. Agricultural Hall, Islington,—Concer

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MUSIC HALLS.

MUSIC HALLS.

Alhambra [178] Leicester Square, (east side.) Alhambra (Temperance) Music Hall Shoreditch. Borough Music Hall 170 Union Street. Cambridge Music Hall Commercial Street. Canterbury Hall Lambeth Upper Marsh. Deacon’s Sadler’s Wells. Evans’ Covent Garden. Islington Philharmonic Hall [179] High Street, Islington. Marylebone High Street Metropolitan Music Hall 125 Edgeware Road. Middlesex Drury Lane. The Oxford 6 Oxford Street, (east end.) Pavilion Music Hall Tichborne Street, Haymarket. Raglan Music

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MODES OF ADMISSION TO VARIOUS INTERESTING PLACES.

MODES OF ADMISSION TO VARIOUS INTERESTING PLACES.

British Museum .— Chelsea Hospital .— Courts of Law and Justice (at the Criminal Court and the Police Courts a fee is often needed.)— Docks , (but not the vaults and warehouses without an introduction.)— Dulwich Gallery .— East India Museum , Fife House, Whitehall.— Greenwich Hospital , (a small fee for some parts.)— Hampton Court Palace , (Sundays as well as week-days).— Houses of Parliament , (some portions every day; more on Saturdays.)— Kew Botanic Garden and Pleasure Grounds , (Sundays as w

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PRINCIPAL PUBLIC AND TURKISH BATHS.

PRINCIPAL PUBLIC AND TURKISH BATHS.

(Those printed in italics are public baths, established rather for the benefit of the working and middle classes, than for the sake of profit. At most of them a third-class cold bath can be obtained for 1d.; from which minimum the prices rise to about 6d. or 8d. Many of the so-called Turkish baths are ordinary baths in which the arrangements for the Turkish or Oriental system have recently been introduced. There are also a few Medicated Baths , kept by medical practitioners for the use of inv

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CABS.

CABS.

Practically speaking, the new law ordering cabmen to display a flag, on which is painted their tariff per mile and per hour, is a dead letter. Few or none shew flags, and many have none to shew. Cab proprietors can now charge what they please, provided they take out a license from the Commissioners of Metropolitan Police, on which is endorsed the rate by distance or by time intended to be charged, and the number of persons to be carried. No fare less than one shilling is to be offered. The d

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HINTS TO STRANGERS.

HINTS TO STRANGERS.

Whether you know the proper cab-fare or not, always make a bargain with the cabman when hiring his vehicle; and take a note of his number. Keep the right hand side of the pavement when walking. If out with other country friends, keep well together. Observe caution while crossing crowded thoroughfares. In asking for information, apply to shopkeepers, or to policemen, rather than to passers-by. The London police are, for the most part, reliable men; and strangers in any doubt or difficulty can gen

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COMMISSIONAIRES OR MESSENGERS.

COMMISSIONAIRES OR MESSENGERS.

These are a body of retired soldiers of good character, who were originally organized in 1859, by Captain Walter. Their central office, open day and night, is at Exchange Court, 419 a Strand, where men can always be hired. But they are also to be seen, and are easily recognisable by their neat dark green uniform and badge, in most large thoroughfares. Their tariff is,—twopence for half-a-mile or under; and threepence for any distance over half-a-mile to a mile. Back fare, or charge for retur

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THE GREAT INTERCEPTS MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON.

THE GREAT INTERCEPTS MAIN DRAINAGE SYSTEM OF LONDON.

North of the Thames are the High Level , the Middle Level , the Low Level , and the Western District Sewers , together with an Outfall at Barking Creek. The High Level drains Hampstead, Highgate, Kentish Town, Highbury, Stoke Newington, Hackney, and passes under Victoria Park to Old Ford; its length is about 9 miles. The Middle Level runs by way of Kensal Green, Kensington Park, Notting Hill, Bayswater, Oxford Street, and so under a number of minor streets, to Old Ford, being about 12 miles lo

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