The Turner's Companion - free ebook by Anonymous

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The Turner's Companion

Anonymous

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THE TURNER’S COMPANION:

THE TURNER’S COMPANION:

CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN CONCENTRIC, ELLIPTIC, AND ECCENTRIC TURNING; ALSO VARIOUS Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments: AND DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE ECCENTRIC CUTTER, DRILL, VERTICAL CUTTER, AND CIRCULAR REST; WITH PATTERNS, AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING THEM. PHILADELPHIA: HENRY CAREY BAIRD, INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHER, No. 406 WALNUT STREET. 1868....

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PREFACE.

PREFACE.

The primary object of the author, in offering The Turner’s Companion to the notice of the public, is the hope of explaining, in a clear, concise, and intelligible manner, the rudiments of this beautiful art; an art immortalized by the pen of Virgil, practised by the Greeks and Romans, and, as we are told, still existing in those exquisite chef-d’œuvres of former years, so much admired and sought after in our century. A short treatise on this subject is much wanted, and the author has endeavoured

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CHUCKS.

CHUCKS.

The chucks, upon which the material to be turned, whether of wood, ivory, or metal, is always fixed, next demand our attention. They are of every variety of size and form, and are all screwed upon the mandrel of the lathe. Many are made of brass; others (the most numerous, because the turner can make them for himself), are of wood; but these latter should be used soon after they are made; for if not constructed of very dry, hard wood, any great variation in the weather will cause them to shrink,

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THE SCREW.

THE SCREW.

We now come to the most difficult operation in turning, that of cutting a screw; to perform it well and easily is a proof of the workman’s skill and proficiency in the art. There are many ways of doing it; we shall therefore give the best and least expensive. The screw tools, figures 14 and 15, plate 1 , must fit exactly one into the other. Fig. 15 is an outside, Fig. 14 an inside tool. As the threads may be required to be cut coarse or fine, according to the work you are engaged upon, the small

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BORING COLLAR.

BORING COLLAR.

Fig. D, plate 4 , is a boring collar, used to support any long slender body which is required to be turned hollow. Without a support of this kind it would be impossible to keep the wood in its place; and it would either incline from the centre, thus causing the hollow to be drilled out quite crooked, or it would spring from the chuck. To obviate these two inconveniences, the two collars, figs. C and D, plate 4 , are employed. In the former one, which is made of iron or brass, the holes are conic

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OF WOODS.

OF WOODS.

There are many beautiful English woods which are excellent for turning; beech is very universally used, and it should be cut into moderate sized pieces and boiled, to render it more durable, and to make it work smoothly. Elm and chestnut are also much admired; if the latter be dipped in alum water, then brushed over with a hot decoction of logwood, afterwards with one of Brazil wood, it will be made to imitate mahogany. Green wood should never be used, as it is apt to split; it should be kept fo

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TO STAIN WOOD RED.

TO STAIN WOOD RED.

Mix two ounces of Brazil wood, and two of potash, in a quart of water; let them remain in a warm place for some days, stirring them occasionally. With this boiling liquid, brush over the wood till it becomes of the requisite colour; then dissolve two ounces of alum in a quart of water, and, while the wood is wet, brush it over with it. For a pink or a rose red, use double the quantity of potash....

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A YELLOW STAIN.

A YELLOW STAIN.

Steep one ounce of turmeric in a pint of spirits of wine; let it stand for several days. Brush the wood over with it. A red yellow is made by adding to the above a little gum tragacanth....

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A BLACK STAIN.

A BLACK STAIN.

Brush the wood with a hot decoction of logwood, then with common ink....

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A PURPLE STAIN.

A PURPLE STAIN.

Boil one ounce of logwood and two drachms of Brazil wood in a quart of water, over a moderate fire. When one-half is evaporated, strain it, and brush the wood over with it. When dry, brush it over with a solution composed of a dram of pearl-ash in a pint of water....

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A MAHOGANY STAIN.

A MAHOGANY STAIN.

For a light stain, mix two ounces of madder and one of fustic in a quart of water, and boil them all together; a darker stain is made by using half an ounce of logwood in the place of the madder, and then brushing the wood with a weak solution of potash. All hard woods are easily polished; first, they are made perfectly smooth and even, with the turning tools, after which rub them with sand paper, then with Dutch rushes, which, to prevent their breaking into small pieces, should be steeped in wa

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TO DIE IVORY RED.

TO DIE IVORY RED.

Take half a pound of pieces of scarlet cloth, put them into a clean earthen pot; add one ounce of soft soap, after which pour in three quarts of soft water. Boil all together for half an hour, stirring it frequently, and squeeze the cloth several times, to extract the colour. When this is done, have ready an earthen vessel, put into it as much pulverized alum as will lie upon a sixpence, pour the scarlet liquid over it, and extract all the colour from the cloth by pressing it in a canvas bag. St

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BLACK DYE.

BLACK DYE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of logwood shavings in a quart of water, in an earthen vessel, for half an hour. Steep the ivory in it. On taking the ivory out of these boiling liquors, immerse it instantly in cold water, to prevent its cracking....

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ELLIPTIC TURNING.

ELLIPTIC TURNING.

This machine is frequently called, by those who do not understand the ellipse, an oval chuck; but it is not oval, for an oval expresses an object that is smaller at one end than at the other. Fig. 1, plate 3 , is a front view of the machine. I K is the iron plate to which all the parts (except the ring, hereafter described) are fastened. A screw, similar to that on the nose of the mandrel, is riveted to this plate, fig. W, and upon it whatever you wish to turn is fixed. Fig. 2 exhibits a back vi

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THE DRILL.

THE DRILL.

The drill is a most useful auxiliary to the eccentric cutter, not only for drilling holes, which it does with great nicety and speed, but also for making mouldings and patterns of various kinds. Unlike the cutter, which moves either in a large or small circle, the drill can only work upon its own centre, and therefore the size of the pattern depends upon the tool placed in it, its position being regulated by the screw in the sliding rest, into which it slips like the cutter. It is turned by a ro

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GONEOMETER.

GONEOMETER.

All the eccentric tools require the greatest care in sharpening, and the above ingenious machine has been invented for this purpose; it is represented at P, in plate 4 . The upper part, 1, is a plate of brass, the outer edge, 2, is graduated as high as 50 each way, beginning at the tongue, 3. Beyond the numbers is a groove, in which one end of the tool slide, 4, slips, and is firmly fixed (so as to point to any of the numbers that suit the angle of the tool) by a nut underneath. The whole plate,

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CIRCULAR REST.

CIRCULAR REST.

The rest we have already described, called the Parallel Rest, works, as its name sufficiently expresses, in a straight line; it is therefore useless for ornamenting spherical objects, and the circular rest has lately been invented to supply this deficiency. It is a most ingenious contrivance, and perfectly fulfils the purpose for which it was invented. The bed, A A, is the same as in the parallel rest, and screws in the same way to the bed of the lathe. B is a brass socket and pillar, which supp

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THE VERTICAL, OR UNIVERSAL CUTTER.

THE VERTICAL, OR UNIVERSAL CUTTER.

Plate 7. This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest, is different from the others; and, as its name denominates, the patterns it can cut are almost endless, for it may be turned in any direction. The bed of the slide is the same as with the drill; at the end, No. 1, is a screw, which, when turned by the key, B, inclines the tool-holder, 2, to any angle that may be required, and it is regulated by the lines on the brass plate, 3, which are marked by a small steel point; so that if you wish

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PATTERN 2.

PATTERN 2.

The middle pattern is formed of eight shells, with only four lines in each; but these parts of shells begin at the centre point, not round it, as in the former pattern. Use a double angular tool, screw the tool slide out 10 turns, and the eccentric chuck downwards , till the outer or largest circle just touches the centre; cut one circle, move 15 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel; cut another, and continue the same till the eight are done; then diminish each as directed for the shell, countin

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PATTERN 3.

PATTERN 3.

Count 40 on the eccentric chuck wheel for each of the three large circles, diminish one turn of the eccentric chuck. Then diminish the circle two turns of the rest screw, and lower the eccentric chuck two turns, and cut a circle every 20 numbers; the others are done the same. For the second pattern of circles, cut one for every number on the eccentric chuck wheel; then move one number on the eccentric chuck wheel, and move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn, and cut a circle every 15; by mov

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PATTERN 4.

PATTERN 4.

This is a double shell in the centre. Begin with the large circle, having fixed the eccentric chuck wheel at No. 120. Having cut one whole shell, move the wheel to No. 60, and work the other in the same way. For the circles, keep the tool in the same place on the slide rest, and screw the eccentric chuck down two turns to clear the edge of the shell; cut one circle every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, enlarge the circle by moving the slide rest one turn forwards; cut the second row, an

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PATTERN 5.

PATTERN 5.

The middle and second row of circles are too simple to require explanation. For the clusters of rings, begin with the middle row; cut two a little apart from each other, then one through the middle of them, and so on to the end; set the eccentric chuck wheel to the middle circle of one of the clusters, and move the eccentric chuck downwards, till the tool can cut through the middle of the others, then upwards the same number of turns. The extra half circle is made by moving the wheel of the lath

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PATTERN 6.

PATTERN 6.

This is merely a circle of shells, worked the same as in pattern 1; only with this difference, that each circle is done to correspond in each shell, instead of working every one separately, which would be more tedious; 15 is counted on the eccentric chuck wheel for each row of circles. The rays in the middle are done with the drill; these can also be done without an eccentric chuck; the numbers must then be counted on the fly-wheel, which, for this kind of line work, is kept steady with the stop

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PATTERN 1, PLATE 12.

PATTERN 1, PLATE 12.

Cut a small circle, then one every 12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel. Move the chuck downwards two turns, and the eccentric chuck wheel 1 number, either backwards or forwards; if the former, the rows of circles will incline to the right; if the latter, to the left. Proceed the same for every row of circles, always counting twelve between each, and advancing the chuck 1 number at the beginning of every new row....

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PATTERN 2.

PATTERN 2.

Begin with a small circle in the middle, then turn the eccentric chuck down two turns, and cut one every 15. For the other two rows proceed the same, lowering the chuck two turns, and counting 15 for each on the eccentric chuck wheel. For the chain work, cut a circle every 15 near the edge; then screw the eccentric chuck one turn upwards, move 1 on the eccentric chuck wheel on each side of the others; thus, if the upper row of circles begin at 120, the second row will begin at Nos. 1 and 119, th

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PATTERN 5.

PATTERN 5.

Cut a circle every 24 numbers of the eccentric chuck wheel. Lower the chuck one turn, and cut a circle on each side of the former ones, so as to form the five knots of threes. The edge is worked like the arc patterns, making each half circle meet and join with a dot, cut with a small flat-ended tool....

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PATTERN 6.

PATTERN 6.

For the border cut three circles, one for each number on the eccentric chuck wheel, then cut another at 6, 7, and 8, and so on till all are done. The pattern in the middle needs no explanation. Plate 13 contains several specimens of eccentric turning. The temple may be made either of wood or ivory, and be left open, as in the plate, or have a coloured card-board case made to fit inside it. The upper and lower parts of the pillars, six in number, are fluted with a round-ended drill, but the middl

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PATTERN 1, PLATE 14.

PATTERN 1, PLATE 14.

This pattern is formed of four groups of circles, containing seven in each. Your wood being perfectly smoothed and lined , set the cutter tool (a double angular one) at its lowest degree, exactly in the centre of the work, so that if moved it would only cut a dot. Unscrew it eight or ten turns to make a large circle, then by impelling the cutter box forwards with the slide-rest screw, fix it so that the tool cuts the circle a little over the centre: arrange your screw guides: having cut one circ

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PATTERN 2.

PATTERN 2.

Arrange the circle a little smaller than for pattern 1, and on a level with the centre point of the work. Set the chuck wheel at 120, cut a circle; then one at 15, 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, when you will find the eight outer circles of the pattern are formed. Then move the slide-rest screw forwards four numbers, and to No. 1 on the eccentric chuck wheel; then to Nos. 14-31, 44-61, 74-91, 104. By following the same rule in the other circles you will find the pattern is not difficult, though at fir

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PATTERN 3.

PATTERN 3.

This pattern requires great attention and care to work it properly. Having arranged the cutter tool, screw it out four turns to make the circle the proper size, then move the cutter to the edge of the work, cut a circle at Nos. 120, 40, and 80, on the eccentric chuck wheel, then set the wheel at 20, and leave it fixed. Your next operation must be to screw down the eccentric chuck, and alter the position of the tool on the slide-rest, till, by laying your hand on the fly-wheel and moving it gentl

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PATTERN 4.

PATTERN 4.

The arc pattern is first worked: arrange it as directed for pattern 3, and mark the outline with a pencil: in this, the arc began at 280 of the fly-wheel, and ended at 168, making in all 116 numbers; to divide 58 for each half of the arc, divide them thus—4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4; then count back 4, 3, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4. You will see that the numbers increase one every time or for every circle, which also is enlarged one notch for each. Having made the three arcs fit by marking their positi

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PATTERN 5.

PATTERN 5.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge the circle four turns; then turn the slide-rest screw two numbers to the right, cut one circle, and for each of the other eleven, screw the chuck down one turn, then return to the middle and cut eleven the other way. When 23 are finished, screw the slide rest to the left four numbers, and cut 23 more exactly in the same manner. To work the side patterns begin by that on the right, set the cutter to the middle of the work, unscrew it two turns, move the cutte

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PATTERN 6.

PATTERN 6.

Set the cutter to the centre, enlarge the circle six turns, cut one, diminish one number on the cutter for each of the other eight circles, and move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn for each. Count back to the middle circle, and work the other eight the same. The side patterns are done much like those in pattern 5, only the large circle is in the middle, and the straight lines incline inwards....

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PATTERN 7.

PATTERN 7.

Set the cutter to the middle of the circle, enlarge it two turns and a half, cut a circle in the middle, turn the chuck down two turns, so as to cut another a little into the former ones; continue the same till the seven are done; return to the middle circle, and cut the other six in the same line, by screwing the eccentric chuck upwards instead of downwards. When the thirteen are completed, lower the chuck one turn, and screw the slide rest outwards (if doing the lines to the right) two turns,

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PATTERN 8.

PATTERN 8.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge it two turns, turn the slide rest outwards twelve turns, cut a circle near the edge; count 20 on the eccentric chuck wheel, cut another, then 5 more, each distant twenty numbers from each other. To make the circles join in straight lines, screw the eccentric chuck downwards two turns for every one; when the outside pattern is done, return to the middle circle, and cut the other lines the same....

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PATTERN 9.

PATTERN 9.

Square patterns require great care in working them. First saw the wood perfectly square; then, when on the lathe, take the T square; hold the flat edge firm on the bed of the lathe, and the handle against one side of the wood, till both are even, then fix the wheel of the eccentric chuck to that number. Having with the cutter worked one row of patterns, move the chuck 30 numbers, which, if the wood is quite square, will enable you to do the second row; then 30 more for the third side, and 30 for

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TO LINE WOODEN BOXES WITH TORTOISE-SHELL.

TO LINE WOODEN BOXES WITH TORTOISE-SHELL.

As many of my readers may wish to line their snuff-boxes with tortoise-shell, I think it needful to give some instructions in the best method of doing it. Cut the shell into very thin leaves with a sharp fine saw, then divide these into the size you wish for the inside of the snuff-box, leaving a very little extra for the joint. Take a new rough file, and scrape away a little of the two ends of the narrow strip of shell, so that they can lie one upon another, and fit so closely that the aperture

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TO FINISH THE SNUFF-BOX.

TO FINISH THE SNUFF-BOX.

Make your box and lid of hard, well-seasoned wood; hollow them out, and polish the insides, only omitting to cut the lip upon which the lid fits, and which will be formed by the tortoise-shell. As you hollow out the box and lid, keep fitting in the shell, that you may not make them too large; when it slips in rather tight, take a point tool and cut some circles on the inside of each; (this is done to enable the glue to hold firmly.) Now, take the tortoise-shell and file that part that is to be c

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HORN TO IMITATE TORTOISE-SHELL.

HORN TO IMITATE TORTOISE-SHELL.

Dissolve three ounces of potash in a pint of boiling water. Let it boil for a quarter of an hour, then pour it into a basin capable of holding about as much again, and in which you have put half a pound of quick lime, stir it well, and when the latter is slacked , add three ounces of red lead and one ounce of vermilion. When the whole is of the consistency of thick soup, dip a thin pointed stick into it, and lay the drops it will take up upon a piece of horn in those parts required to be coloure

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MASTIC USED IN TURNING IVORY VERY THIN.

MASTIC USED IN TURNING IVORY VERY THIN.

To turn ivory as thin as writing paper, so as to render it quite transparent, is very difficult to accomplish, but is much admired when done, and shows the skill of the artist. To enable the ivory to bear the action of the tool without splitting, the following mastic has been found very useful, both for strengthening it and for giving a deep colouring, by which means the thinness is more perceptible. Some turners wet the ivory for the latter purpose, but as when wet it is quite transparent, and

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BEAUTIFUL VARNISH FOR WOOD, TO BE USED WHILE THE WORK IS ON THE LATHE.

BEAUTIFUL VARNISH FOR WOOD, TO BE USED WHILE THE WORK IS ON THE LATHE.

To one quart of spirits of wine add four ounces of lacker, three ounces of gum benzoin, one drachm of camphor, half a drachm of sandarac, half a drachm of dragon’s blood, one drachm of turpentine. Put these ingredients in a long-necked bottle capable of holding two quarts, and tie a piece of wet parchment over the neck; when dry, pierce it with holes with a large pin. Place the bottle in the bain marée till the contents are perfectly dissolved, shaking it frequently. When cold, strain the liquid

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TURNER’S CEMENT.

TURNER’S CEMENT.

Sometimes the workman is too much hurried to wait till the work can be glued upon the chuck; the following cement will be found useful. Take two pounds of Burgundy pitch, one pound of rosin, one pound of colophonium, two ounces of yellow wax, and one ball of whiting. Melt all, except the latter, in an earthen pot, over a slow fire. When it begins to bubble, stir it well with a stick to prevent its passing the edge of the pot, and when all is quite melted take it off the fire. Add the whiting, fi

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NEW AND VALUABLE RECIPE FOR TAKING BEAUTIFUL IMPRESSIONS FROM TURNING PATTERNS.

NEW AND VALUABLE RECIPE FOR TAKING BEAUTIFUL IMPRESSIONS FROM TURNING PATTERNS.

Take a sheet of rice-paper, paste it upon letter-paper with flour paste, which must be mixed as smooth as possible, and laid on very thin. Leave it till quite dry, then lay the rice-paper thus backed upon the piece of Turning, and with the thumb nail or a piece of cloth rub the back of the paper, pressing it gently so as to make it enter into all the deep, fine cuts of the Turning. The impression will be beautiful, and have the appearance of a raised medallion. It is invaluable for taking off pa

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