A Sentimental & Practical Guide To Amesbury And Stonehenge
Florence Caroline Mathilde Sartoris Antrobus
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42 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
In compiling this little Guide Book, I have somewhat departed from the ordinary lines, but I venture to hope that the traveller to Amesbury and Stonehenge will not like it the worse on that account.  I am much indebted to the kindness of Mrs. Gordon and of Messrs. Murray , Barclay , Story Maskelyne , and Hewitt , for allowing me to quote from their works, also to the Editor of the Ladies’ Realm , for permission to use an article by me which appeared in the February number of that magazine, and,
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GUIDE TO AMESBURY AND STONEHENGE.
GUIDE TO AMESBURY AND STONEHENGE.
Leaving Salisbury by what is called the “Upper Road” to Amesbury, one travels across a tract of bleak and rather uninteresting downs.  About two miles from Salisbury (on the left) Old Sarum stands up conspicuously, and is the only object of interest till one arrives at Amesbury, eight miles distant from Salisbury.  Amesbury calls itself a town, and boasts of several shops and the telegraph.  A railway station is in process of construction.  In Aubrey’s times Amesbury was celebrated for its tobac
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OLD SARUM.
OLD SARUM.
Lies two miles from Salisbury, and stands up, making a bold outline in the surrounding open country.  It is a hill, bare now, save for some trees, encircled with entrenchments, with a central mound peering above them.  But centuries ago this spot was crowded with buildings—religious, military, and domestic, and was one of the most important in our island.  Some say that the ancient British name was Caer Sarflag , the “City of the Service Tree.”  Its Roman name was Sorbiodunun , the Saxon Sarobyr
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STRATFORD-SUB-CASTLE.
STRATFORD-SUB-CASTLE.
Lies close under the hill of Old Sarum, and derives its name from the Roman “street” or road which here “forded” the river on its course to Bradbury Rings and Dorchester.  The manor house was the residence of William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, who was first returned to Parliament (1735) as member for those vacant mounds on the hill above.  Governor Pitt purchased the manor in 1690 for 1500 l. , and Lord Grenville, who had married the sister of Thomas Pitt, Lord Camelford, afterwards sold it for 65,0
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THE CHURCH, AMESBURY.
THE CHURCH, AMESBURY.
Dedicated to the Memories of St. Mary and St. Melorus . One of the finest in Wiltshire.  A fourteenth century nave roof covers a Norman nave, and a thirteenth century chapel possesses a beautiful window, with two lights, and slender delicate column and sculptured leafy cap.  Archæologists dispute as to whether this is the abbey church (a Benedictine order founded by Queen Elfrida to expiate the murder of her step-son at Corfe) or merely the parish church.  I consider that there can be no doubt t
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AMESBURY ABBEY.
AMESBURY ABBEY.
Salisbury . Since writing the above little note on Amesbury church, the necessary repairs to the tower have been most sympathetically carried out by Mr. Detmar Blow.  No changes are to be noticed from the exterior—the test of a good architect’s work applied to old buildings.  The underpinning disclosed the remains of a Saxon pillar embedded in the masonry of the nave wall—may not this fact go to prove that the present building stands on the site of Elfrida’s church?  At the completion of Mr. Blo
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THE FEMALE PHAETON.
THE FEMALE PHAETON.
I. Thus Kitty beautiful and young,    And wild as colt untam’d, Bespoke the Fair from whence she sprung    With little rage inflam’d. II. Inflam’d with rage at sad restraint,    Which wise mamma ordained, And sorely vex’d to play the saint    Whilst wit and beauty reigned. III. “Shall I thumb holy books confin’d    With Abigails forsaken? Kitty’s for other things design’d,    Or I am much mistaken. IV. “Must Lady Jenny frisk about    And visit with her cousins? At ball must she make all the rout
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PRICELESS STONEHENGE—SOME IMPRESSIONS.
PRICELESS STONEHENGE—SOME IMPRESSIONS.
(From Ladies’ Realm Magazine.) The Great Druidical Temple, or (as some hold) Phœnician Observatory, composed of gigantic, beautifully-coloured, hewn stones, stands in the middle of Salisbury Plain.  These stones have been measured, counted, defaced, praised, depreciated, commented upon, by numerous authorities on countless occasions, but (to my knowledge) no account of their poetical and picturesque aspects, at different seasons of the year, has been attempted.  I shall feel satisfied if I succe
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THE DATE OF STONEHENGE.
THE DATE OF STONEHENGE.
In printing this second edition of my little guide-book, I think it will be found interesting and necessary to leave all the former evidence and opinions that I collected as to the date of Stonehenge.  Since the excavations in 1901, I think we may consider the age of Stonehenge to be between three and four thousand years.  Mr. W. Gowland judges from the implements or tools found, Sir Norman Lockyer and Dr. Penrose from astronomical observations, based on the fact that the avenue (“Viâ Sacra”) to
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THE FINDS AT STONEHENGE, 1901.
THE FINDS AT STONEHENGE, 1901.
The implements found during the excavations made for the underpinning of the “Leaning Stone” are thus classified by Mr. W. Gowland:— (1) Haches roughly chipped, longer and shorter.  (2) Axe-hammers.  (3) Hammer-stones with blunt edge.  The above are of flint.  (4) Regular hammer-stones of compact sarsen.  (5) Mauls of the same rock, weighing from 37 to 64 lbs. each.  There were also found chippings from the monoliths, and, near the surface, coins and animal bones. Only one trace of copper or bro
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PARTICULARS OF THE STONES.
PARTICULARS OF THE STONES.
58 stones of the Sarsen circle: 30 piers, 28 lintels. 26 ,, ,, Bluestone circle (2): this includes 1 impost. 15 ,, ,, Sarsen trilithons: 10 piers, 5 imposts. 19 „ Inner bluestones. 1 Sun stone. Altar stone. Slaughter stone. Stones of the Earth Circle. 123 Total . The question arises whether there were formerly other stones belonging to the earth circle.  From probing the ground, there is reason to believe that a stone on this bank may once have marked the direction of the axis....
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SARSEN CIRCLE.
SARSEN CIRCLE.
17 piers in situ , 8 prostrate or fragments, 5 missing. 6 lintels in situ , 2 fragments, 20 missing....
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BLUESTONE CIRCLE.
BLUESTONE CIRCLE.
12 stones or stumps in situ , 10 prostrate, 4 missing....
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SARSEN TRILITHONS.
SARSEN TRILITHONS.
5 piers in situ , 3 prostrate, 5 missing. From this list of missing blue stones we may safely deduct two; two pieces of rock are known to be beneath the turf, and there may be others.  The most satisfactory derivation of Sarsens or Sassens is from the Anglo-Saxon word for a rock or stone— ses , plural sesen or sesons .  The Inner Circle of blue stones and Inner Horse-shoe are composed of the “Blue Stones,” igneous rocks....
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DERIVATION OF AMESBURY.
DERIVATION OF AMESBURY.
“On Salisbury Plain stand the ruins of the weird Circle of Revolution, Cor y Coeth in Welsh, the Circle of Dominion, the holy anointed stones of Ambresbiri ( ambree , anointed; biri , Hebrew for holy ones), at once a sanctuary and a sundial (3000 years ago the only clock in Britain), regulated by the sun and moon for days and years.  But the beautiful old British names since the sixth century have been blotted out by the terrible title Stonehenge or stone gallows—Stanhengen in Anglo-Saxon.  A pe
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DERIVATION OF DRUID.
DERIVATION OF DRUID.
An Arabic (and Persian) word meaning Holy Men come from the valley of the Euphrates.  Mrs. Gordon considers Merlin (the Bismarck of his age) as the builder of Stonehenge; also that Aurelius Ambrosius, by his own wish, was buried within the Circle of Stonehenge....
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DERIVATION OF BARROWS.
DERIVATION OF BARROWS.
Barrow, a Hebrew word for grave Mounds.  Literally, the “thrown-up pit of lamentation.”...
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DERIVATION OF WILTSHIRE.
DERIVATION OF WILTSHIRE.
Wiltshire, in the Saxon Chronicles Wiltunseir, in Doomesday Wiltescire, derives its name from the town of Wilton, from the Wit-saetas ( saetan = settlers or inhabitants), the West Saxon tribe who made it their home....
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MENTION OF AMESBURY IN MALORY’S “MORTE D’ARTHUR.”
MENTION OF AMESBURY IN MALORY’S “MORTE D’ARTHUR.”
“And thus upon a night there came a vision unto Sir Launcelot, and charged him, in remission of all his sins, to haste him towards Almesbury.  ‘And by that time thou come, there thou shalt find Queen Guenever dead; and therefore take thy fellows with thee, and also purvey thee a horse bier, and bring you the corpse of her, and bury it by her lord and husband.’  Then Sir Launcelot took his seven fellows with him, and on foot they went from Glastonbury, which is little more than thirty miles.  And
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THE AVENUE OR VIÂ SACRA
THE AVENUE OR VIÂ SACRA
is orientated to the midsummer sunrise, and points 50° east of north point.  It leads uninterruptedly to the circular space formed by the earth circle in which Stonehenge stands, the enclosing bank being discontinued in this direction.  It is noteworthy that the sun stone, as well as the slaughter stone, are not placed in the centre of the avenue or approach, but lie towards the eastern side of it.  The avenue is made by two parallel lines confining ditches, the earth having been thrown inwards
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THE CURSUS AVENUE.
THE CURSUS AVENUE.
This is now completely obliterated....
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THE LONG AVENUE.
THE LONG AVENUE.
The branch which turned to the right, forming the eastern slope of the valley, went over its crest and continued in a straight line in the direction of some high land to the north of Vespasian’s Camp.  The plough at work year after year has completely effaced all traces of this avenue, and we have to rely on Dr. Stukeley’s account written 150 years ago....
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THE PARALLEL BANK.
THE PARALLEL BANK.
At 1200 feet from the sun stone “the approach” is intersected at an angle approximating roughly to a right angle by parallel banks about two feet in height and forty feet apart; the roadway thus formed continues about 600 feet to left and right; to the east it is continued by a causeway across the valley already spoken of, and it is used by carts passing that way, required in the cultivation of fields to the west of the avenue....
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THE CURSUS.
THE CURSUS.
Discovered by Dr. Stukeley , 1723. This great enclosure lies to the north of Stonehenge, and veers 6° from due east and west.  Like the avenue it is formed by banks thrown up from an outer ditch.  It is 9000 feet in length, with a width of 350 feet at its centre, but towards its extremities it narrows.  To the west, the southern boundary is irregular.  The northern ditch, on the contrary, makes a fairly straight line.  Its eastern end is headed by a long mound now difficult to trace.  Near its w
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THE LESSER CURSUS.
THE LESSER CURSUS.
To the north-west of the Great Cursus and over 7000 feet distant from Stonehenge, is an earthwork apparently the beginning of a second cursus.  It is ill defined, and at 1200 feet from its enclosed end the ditches cease.  It appears to be an abandoned scheme for an enclosure similar to the Cursus. From “Stonehenge,” Mr. Edgar Barclay.  At page 66 he says:—“The Cursus is irregular in shape, nevertheless there remains a very strong probability that it is an adjunct of Stonehenge, and was designed
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EARTHWORKS ON SALISBURY PLAIN.
EARTHWORKS ON SALISBURY PLAIN.
Tumuli, or Barrows, are the most simple kind of sepulchral monument; they consist of a mound of earth or stones raised over the dead. Sir Richard Colt Hoare thus classifies them in his “History of Wiltshire”:— 1.  The Long Barrow.  Differing considerably in their construction. 2.  The Bowl Barrow.  The most ordinary shape. 3.  The Bell Barrow.  This, from the elegance of its form, seems a refinement on the Bowl Barrow.  They abound near Stonehenge. 4.  Druid Barrow (1st class).  I consider these
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VESPASIAN’S CAMP.
VESPASIAN’S CAMP.
A name given by Dr. Stukeley to the (probably) British earthworks, locally known as “the Ramparts,” which crown a hill in the demesne of Amesbury Abbey.  Its ancient lines of defence, enclosing thirty-nine acres and boldly scarped towards the west, environ the summit in the form of a scalene triangle.  This hill is densely wooded, containing two beautiful avenues of beech-trees, and as it descends to the Avon, is cut into a fanciful shape, supposed to resemble a diamond.  I have described this i
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WEST AMESBURY HOUSE.
WEST AMESBURY HOUSE.
A pretty old house on the road-side, belonging to Sir Edmund Antrobus, built of stone and flint.  The interior has been much altered and spoilt.  Traces of a monastic building exist in the beams supporting the roof, and in a church doorway at the top of the staircase.  These date from the fifteenth century.  Aubrey informs us that this house and property, along with Stonehenge, once formed the dowry of the wife of Lord Ferrers of Chartley.  The village of West Amesbury possesses some picturesque
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WILSFORD HOUSE.
WILSFORD HOUSE.
A house on the banks of the Avon, built by the late Mr. Loder, of Salisbury, two miles from Amesbury.  It is of the modern “villa” description.  In 1898 Mr. Young purchased it from Sir E. Loder, and re-sold it to Mr. Edward Tennant in 1900.  None of the places described along the Avon Valley are open to the public, but they can be seen from the high road. Lake House...
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LAKE HOUSE,
LAKE HOUSE,
situated on the banks of the Avon, is in the parish of Wilsford, and about three miles south of Amesbury.  The exact date of its foundation is uncertain.  Its main features are Elizabethan, but an old letter in the possession of the family clearly suggests an earlier date.  “As to ye date of ye house,” says the correspondent, “I do not remember anything in that beautifully written deed to which you refer that would bear on it.  Great weight would belong to any opinion expressed by ye late J. H.
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GREAT DURNFORD CHURCH.
GREAT DURNFORD CHURCH.
Leaving Amesbury, and following the eastern banks of the Avon, we come to Great Durnford.  Its name is derived from the British word “dur,” signifying water.  The church is most picturesque, and is built of stone and flint, with very rich Norman north and south doorways and chancel arch.  The font is Norman, with an interesting arcade.  The pulpit is of oak and dated 1619, and has a very old velvet cover with 1657 worked on it.  Built into the wall of the church is a stone coffin containing a sk
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GREAT DURNFORD HOUSE
GREAT DURNFORD HOUSE
was once a seat of the Hungerfords.  Evelyn notes in his Diary, July, 1654:—“We dined at a ferme of my Uncle Hungerford’s called Darneforde magna, situate in a valley under the plaine, most sweetly watered, abounding in troutes, catched by speares in the night when they come attracted by a light set in ye sterne of a boate.” It is in the French château style on a small scale, and has lovely old-fashioned gardens, quite unspoiled, with some rare trees growing in them.  At the end of the last gard
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OGBURY CAMP.
OGBURY CAMP.
On the eastern side of the Avon is a very ancient earthen work called Ogbury Camp.  Sir Richard Colt Hoare thus describes it:—“On this hill we recognize the very early and simple handiwork of the Britons, unaltered by their successors and conquerors, the Romans and Saxons.  Here we see a large tract of sixty-two acres enclosed within a single rampart, and without any fosse to strengthen it against the attacks of an enemy, and we perceive within the area the evident marks of enclosures, and only
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HEALE HOUSE, MIDDLE WOODFORD.
HEALE HOUSE, MIDDLE WOODFORD.
The Residence of the Honourable Louis Greville ; bought by him from Sir E. Loder , 1894. This house, beautifully built of small red bricks, has stone-coped windows in the Dutch style of architecture introduced into this country by William III., and is quite unlike the usual stone and flint “chequered” houses of the neighbourhood.  You enter the grounds through old wrought-iron gates and down an avenue of elm-trees.  The river Avon flows through the garden.  This property formerly belonged to the
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LITTLE DURNFORD HOUSE.
LITTLE DURNFORD HOUSE.
Built of stone and flint, successively the property of the families of Pregers, Wodhull, and Tropnell, afterwards Yonge or Young.  In 1795 it was sold to Edward Hinxman, whose descendants sold it in 1897 to Mr. Devenish (the present owner).  The Avon, flowing through the grounds, has been artificially widened in one place, forming a miniature lake in front of the house....
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ENVOI.
ENVOI.
With much regret I find myself at the end of my little book, which, I hope, will help to describe a beautiful and interesting country.  It has been compiled from various learned sources, and only a small portion of it can claim to be original.  I shall consider myself fortunate if the traveller finds any pleasure in reading what has given me great pleasure to write. Florence Caroline Mathilde Antrobus . June , 1900. At a meeting held last March at Stonehenge, and attended by representatives of t
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In the High Court of Justice. CHANCERY DIVISION. MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
In the High Court of Justice. CHANCERY DIVISION. MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
Writ issued the 1 st day of March 1904. Between HIS MAJESTY’S ATTORNEY-GENERAL at and by the relation of FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, The Right Honourable GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, Sir JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE and the said FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, The Right Honourable GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, Sir JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE . . . Plaintiffs and Sir EDMUND ANTROBUS, Bart. . . . Defendant . Delivered the 17th
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In the High Court of Justice. CHANCERY DIVISION, MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
In the High Court of Justice. CHANCERY DIVISION, MR. JUSTICE FARWELL.
Between HIS MAJESTY’S ATTORNEY-GENERAL at and by the relation of FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, The Right Honourable GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, Sir JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE and the said FRANK TUCKER, THOMAS MERCHANT, The Right Honourable GEORGE JOHN SHAW LEFEVRE, Sir JOHN TOMLINSON BRUNNER, Bart., and WILLIAM MATTHEW FLINDERS PETRIE . . . Plaintiffs and Sir EDMUND ANTROBUS, Bart. . . . Defendant . 1.  As to paragraph 1 of the Statement of Claim it is not
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THE WHITE HART (near the Cathedral).
THE WHITE HART (near the Cathedral).
Carriages and horses for Stonehenge, Wilton, and the New Forest may be had. Prices for Stonehenge, &c. —The complete drive viâ Amesbury to Stonehenge and back by Lake House and the Valley. £ s. d. One horse carriage, for 2 persons 0 13 ,, ,, ,, ,, 3 ,, 18 Two ,, ,, 2 ,, 1 „ „ „ „ 3 „ 5 „ 4 „ 10 These prices include the driver and waiting, baiting, &c. Tariff of Prices : Per day. s. d. Sitting-rooms from 5 Bedrooms from 2 6 Per head. Plain breakfast Breakfast with chop or steak ,,
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CATHEDRAL HOTEL.
CATHEDRAL HOTEL.
Per day. Bedrooms from 2 Sitting-rooms 3 Breakfasts or Teas : Per head. Plain 1 With eggs With meat or fish 2 Dinners : From 3 s. per head. Cold baths 0 Hot 1 Servants’ board, 5 s. per day. Carriages with experienced drivers for Stonehenge and other places of interest....
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RED LION HOTEL, SALISBURY. (Headquarters of the Cyclists’ Touring Club.)
RED LION HOTEL, SALISBURY. (Headquarters of the Cyclists’ Touring Club.)
Apartments : s. d. Bedrooms per day 2 6 Double bedroom 4 0 Baths in bathroom 1 Baths in bedroom Breakfast : Per head. Plain 3 With eggs 9 With fish, steak, ham and eggs 2 6 Luncheons : Soup 0 Sandwiches Cold joint, cheese and salad 2 Ditto, sweets Chop and vegetables Dinners : Joint and vegetable Ditto, with sweets 3 Ditto, soup or fish, joint, and sweets Teas : Cup of tea or coffee Teas with eggs, &c. same as breakfast. Servants’ board per day, 5s.  Bedroom, 1 s. 6 d. Excellent Chemists
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AMESBURY.
AMESBURY.
“Queensberry House”—Boarding House, Tea and Luncheon Room F. Tucker. “Ivy Dene”—Private Hotel A. Fleming. “The Phœnix”—Temperance House E. Cockle. Drapery and Millinery Drapery and Fancy Bazaar B. Hale. Good flys, one and two horses, can be procured here, also bedrooms and sitting-rooms, luncheons, and dinners, and teas. PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LTD., LONDON AND BECCLES....
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