Cookery And Dining In Imperial Rome - free ebook by Apicius

JOSEPH DOMMERS VEHLING

With a Dictionary of Technical Terms, Many Notes, Facsimiles of Originals, and Views and Sketches of Ancient Culinary Objects Made by the Author INTRODUCTION BY PROF. FREDERICK STARR Formerly of the University of Chicago...

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SUBSCRIBERS

Mary Barber, Battle Creek, Mich. Morton S. Brookes, Chicago, Ill. Caxton Club, Chicago, Ill. Gaylord Donnelley, Chicago, Ill. F. H. Douthitt, Chicago, Ill. Helen E. Gilson, Philadelphia, Pa. John Herrmann, Chicago, Ill. W. T. H. Howe, Cincinnati, O. Dr. Samuel W. Lambert, New York, N. Y. Tom L. Powell, Houston, Texas Arnold Shircliffe, Chicago, Ill. W. A. Stewart, Chicago, Ill. Ernest Sturm, New York, N. Y. Jake Zeitlin, Los Angeles, Cal. American Institute of Baking, Chicago, Ill. E. E. Amiet,

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EXPLANATION OF TYPESETTING, ABBREVIATIONS, AND SYSTEM OF NUMBERING

The original ancient text as presented and rendered in the present translation is printed in capital letters. Matter in parenthesis () is original. Matter in square brackets [] is contributed by the translator. In most of the early originals the headings or titles of the formulæ are invariably part of the text. In the present translation they are given both in English and in the Latin used by those originals which the translator considered most characteristic titles. They have been set in promin

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INTRODUCTION

BY FREDERICK STARR Formerly Professor of Anthropology at the University of Chicago N O translation of Apicius into English has yet been published. The book has been printed again and again in Latin and has been translated into Italian and German. It is unnecessary to here give historic details regarding the work as Mr. Vehling goes fully and admirably into the subject. In 1705 the book was printed in Latin at London, with notes by Dr. Martinus Lister. It caused some stir in the England of that t

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PREFACE

The present first translation into English of the ancient cookery book dating back to Imperial Roman times known as the Apicius book is herewith presented to antiquarians, friends of the Antique as well as to gastronomers, friends of good cheer. Three of the most ancient manuscript books that exist today bearing the name of Apicius date back to the eighth and ninth century. Ever since the invention of printing Apicius has been edited chiefly in the Latin language. Details of the manuscript books

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THE BOOK OF APICIUS

POMPEII: CASA DI FORNO—HOUSE OF THE OVEN Ancient bakery and flour mill of the year A.D. 79. Four grain grinders to the right. The method of operating these mills is shown in the sketch of the slaves operating a hand-mill. These mills were larger and were driven by donkeys attached to beams stuck in the square holes. The bake house is to the left, with running water to the right of the entrance to the oven. The oven itself was constructed ingeniously with a view of saving fuel and greatest effici

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A STUDY OF ITS TIMES, ITS AUTHORS AND THEIR SOURCES, ITS AUTHENTICITY AND ITS PRACTICAL USEFULNESS IN MODERN TIMES

A NYONE who would know something worth while about the private and public lives of the ancients should be well acquainted with their table. Then as now the oft quoted maxim stands that man is what he eats. Much of the ancient life is still shrouded and will forever be hidden by envious forces that have covered up bygone glory and grandeur. Ground into mealy dust under the hoofs of barbarian armies! Re-modeled, re-used a hundred times! Discarded as of no value by clumsy hands! The “Crime of Ignor

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THE RECIPES OF APICIUS AND THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS

ORIGINAL TRANSLATION FROM THE TEXTS OF TORINUS, HUMELBERGIUS, LISTER AND GIARRATANO-VOLLMER WITH NOTES AND COMMENTS “DINNER GONG” Heavy bronze disk and substantial “knocker” to signal slaves. Found in Pompeii. “Hurry, fellows, the cakes are piping hot!”—Plautus. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 78622; Field M., 24133. OVAL SERVICE DISH With two decorated handles. Hildesheim Treas....

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THE TEN BOOKS OF APICIUS

I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK. II. MINCES. III. THE GARDENER. IV. MISCELLANEOUS DISHES. V. LEGUMES. VI. POULTRY. VII. FANCY DISHES. VIII. QUADRUPEDS. IX. SEA FOOD. X. FISH SAUCES. THE EXCERPTS OF VINIDARIUS. [V. The Greek titles of the ten books point to a common Greek origin, indicating that Apicius is a collection of Greek monographs on various branches of cookery, specialization such as highly developed civilizations would produce. Both the literary style and the contents of the books point

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BOOK I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK

Lib. I. Epimeles [1] FINE SPICED WINE CONDITUM PARADOXUM T HE COMPOSITION OF [this] EXCELLENT SPICED WINE [is as follows]. INTO A COPPER BOWL PUT 6 SEXTARII [1] OF HONEY AND 2 SEXTARII OF WINE; HEAT ON A SLOW FIRE, CONSTANTLY STIRRING THE MIXTURE WITH A WHIP. AT THE BOILING POINT ADD A DASH OF COLD WINE, RETIRE FROM STOVE AND SKIM. REPEAT THIS TWICE OR THREE TIMES, LET IT REST TILL THE NEXT DAY, AND SKIM AGAIN. THEN ADD 4 OZS. OF CRUSHED PEPPER [2], 3 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, A DRACHM EACH OF [nard

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APICIUS Book II

SLAVES OPERATING A HAND-MILL Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum. FRUIT OR DESSERT BOWL Round bowl, fluted symmetrically, with three claw feet, resting on molded bases. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74000; Field M., 24028....

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BOOK II. MINCES

Lib. II. Sarcoptes [1] [1] Tor. Artoptes ; Tac. Artoptus . This may have been derived from artopta —a vessel in which bread and pudding are baked. However, Sarcoptes is the better word, which is Greek, meaning “chopped meats.” [2] Tac. Ambolatum , and so in Tor. p. 15, De Ambolato . Cap. IIII. cf. our note following No. 58 . [41] MINCED DISHES ISICIA T HERE ARE MANY KINDS OF MINCED DISHES [1] SEAFOOD MINCES [2] ARE MADE OF SEA-ONION, OR SEA CRAB-FISH, LOBSTER, CUTTLE-FISH, INK FISH, SPINY LOBSTE

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APICIUS Book III

ELABORATE THERMOSPODIUM A heater for the service of hot foods and drinks in the dining room. Hot drinks were mixed and foods were served from apparatus of this kind. The fuel was charcoal. There were public places, specializing in hot drinks, called Thermopolia. This specimen was found at Stabiæ, one of the ill-fated towns destroyed by eruption of Mt. Vesuvius. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 72986; Field M., 24307. SERVICE PAN Round, with decorated handle. This and the pan with the Hercules head on handle u

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BOOK III. THE GARDENER

Lib. III. Cepuros [66] VEGETABLES, POT HERBS DE HOLERIBUS T O KEEP ALL VEGETABLES GREEN. UT OMNE HOLUS SMARAGDINUM FIAT. ALL VEGETABLES WILL REMAIN GREEN IF BOILED WITH COOKING SODA [1]. [1] Nitrium. Method still in use today, considered injurious to health if copper vessel is used, but the amount of copper actually absorbed by the vegetable is infinitesimal, imperceptible even by the taste. Copper, to be actually harmful would have to be present in such quantity as to make enjoyment impossible.

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APICIUS Book IV

ROMAN WINE PRESS Reconstruction in Naples, in the new section of the National Museum. A DISH FOR THE SERVICE OF EGGS Hildesheim Treasure...

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BOOK IV. MISCELLANEA

Lib. IV. Pandecter [1] [125] BOILED DINNER SALACATTABIA [2] P EPPER, FRESH MINT, CELERY, DRY PENNYROYAL, CHEESE [3], PIGNOLIA NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF EGG, FRESH WATER, SOAKED BREAD AND THE LIQUID PRESSED OUT, COW’S CHEESE AND CUCUMBERS ARE ARRANGED IN A DISH, ALTERNATELY, WITH THE NUTS; [also add] FINELY CHOPPED CAPERS [4], CHICKEN LIVERS [5]; COVER COMPLETELY WITH [a lukewarm, congealing] BROTH, PLACE ON ICE [and when congealed unmould and] SERVE UP [6]. [1] Read: Pandectes —embra

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APICIUS Book V

POMPEII: WINE STOCK ROOM OF A TAVERN Wine was kept in these great jugs, tightly sealed with plaster and pitch, properly dated and labeled, often remaining for many years. Some writers mention wine thus kept for a hundred years; the porosity of the earthen crocks, often holding fifty gallons or more, allowed evaporation, so that the wine in time became as thick as oil or honey, which necessitated diluting with water. Smaller amphoræ, with various vintages readily mixed, were kept cool in “bars” v

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BOOK V. LEGUMES

Lib. V. Osprion [1] MEAL MUSH, MUSH, PULSE, PAP, PORRIDGE, POLENTA DE PULTIBUS [2] [178] JULIAN MEAL MUSH PULTES JULIANÆ [3] J ULIAN PULSES ARE COOKED THUS: SOAK WELL-CLEANED SPELT, PUT IT ON THE FIRE; WHEN COOKED, ADD OIL. IF IT THREATENS TO BECOME THICK, CAREFULLY THIN IT DOWN. TAKE TWO COOKED BRAINS AND HALF A POUND OF MEAT GROUND AS FOR FORCEMEAT, CRUSH THIS WITH THE BRAINS AND PUT IN A POT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE AND FENNEL SEED, MOISTENED WITH BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND PUT IT ON TOP OF THE BR

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APICIUS Book VI

THE GREAT CRATER Found at Hildesheim in 1868. This and a number of other pieces form the collection known as The Hildesheim Treasure, now at the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin. This wine crater is entirely of silver, a piece of supreme workmanship of Roman origin. Very delicate decoration, anticipating the Renaissance: Winged griffins and other monsters, half ox, half lion, at the base; aquatic animals, genii angling and spearing fish. There is a second vessel inside, acting as a liner, to take

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BOOK VI. FOWL

Lib. VI. Aëropetes [1] [1] Tac., Tor. Trophetes ; probably an error in their rendering. List. Aëroptes , Greek for Fowl. [2] The titles of these chapters and the classification is not adhered in the text of Book VI . The chapters are actually inscribed as follows: Chap. I , Ostrich; II , Crane or Duck, Partridge, Turtle Dove, Wood Pigeon, Squab and divers birds; III , Partridge, Heathcock (Woodcock), Turtle Dove; IV , Wood Pigeon, Squab [Domestic Fattened Fowl, Flamingo]; V , Sauce for divers bi

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APICIUS Book VII

THE GREAT PALLAS ATHENE DISH One of the finest show platters in existence. Of Hellenic make. The object in the right hand of Athene has created considerable conjecture but has never been identified. Hildesheim Treasure. FRYING PAN, OVAL This oblong pan was no doubt primarily used in fish cookery. An oblong piece of food material fitted snugly into the pan, thus saving fats and other liquids in preparation. Around the slender handle was no doubt one of non-heat-conducting material. The shape and

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BOOK VII. SUMPTUOUS DISHES

Lib. VII. Polyteles [In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted in the text of Book VII , namely Chap. X , Fresh Ham and Chap. XI , To Cook Salt Pork; these being inserted after Chap. IX , Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX Chapters.] SOW’S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET VULVÆ STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULÆ ET UNGELLÆ [251] SPAYED SOW’S WOMB [1] VULVÆ STERILES S TERILE SOW’S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE

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APICIUS Book VIII

CRATICULA Combination broiler and stove; charcoal fuel. The sliding rods are adjustable to the size of food to be cooked thereon. Pans of various sizes would rest on these rods. In the rear two openings to hold the caccabus, or stewpot, of which we have four different illustrations. The craticula usually rested on top of a stationary brick oven or range. The apparatus, being moveable, is very ingenious. The roughness of the surface of this specimen is caused by corrosion and lava adhering to its

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BOOK VIII. QUADRUPEDS

Lib. VIII. Tetrapus [329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS APER ITA CONDITUR I T IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED CUMIN AND THUS LEFT. THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED PEPPER. A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE. [1] Lan., Tor. vel instead of mel . [330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR ALITER IN APRO YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR. [331]

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APICIUS Book IX

WINE PITCHER, ELABORATELY DECORATED “Egg and bead” pattern on the rim. The upper end of handle takes the form of a goddess—Scylla, or Diana with two hounds—ending in acanthus leaves below the waist. On the curved back of handle is a long leaf; the lower attachment is in the form of a mask, ivy-crowned maenad (?). Ntl. Mus., Naples, 69171; Field M., 24048. CACCABUS Stewpot, marmite, without a base, to fit into a hole of stove. The flat lid fits into the mouth of the pot. Found in Pompeii. Ntl. Mu

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BOOK IX. SEAFOOD

Lib. IX. Thalassa SHELLFISH IN LOCUSTA [397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI [1] C HOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE BOILING ADD MUSTARD. [1] locusta , spiny lobster; Fr. langouste ; G.-V. capparus ; not clear, ( cammarus , a crab); List. carabus —long-tailed lobster or crab, the cancer cursor of Linnæus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by Plinius. [398] BROILED LOBSTER LOCUSTAS AS

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APICIUS Book X

SHALLOW SAUCE PAN The plain bowl is molded, the fluted handle ends in a head of the young Hercules in a lion’s skin, with the paws tied under the neck. This corresponds somewhat to our modern chafing dish pan both in size and in utility. This pan was used in connection with the plain thermospodium for the service of hot foods in the dining room. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 73438; Field M., 24032. CACCABUS Stewpot, kettle, marmite. The cover fits over the mouth. The rings in which the bail plays are attac

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BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1]

Lib. X. Halieus The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts. [432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH IUS DIABOTANON [2] PRO [3] PISCE FRIXO U SE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.

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THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS

BREVIS PIMENTORUM Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius. CACCABUS Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172....

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THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN

Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri FIFTH CENTURY Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318. Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporat

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APICIANA

DIAGRAM of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources of the present translation. INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome....

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APICIANA

A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9

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ADDENDA

J. Svennung: Untersuchungen zu Palladius und zur lateinischen Fach- und Volkssprache. “Skrifter utgivna med understöd av Vilhelm Ekmans universitets-fond, Uppsala,” tom. 44, (Uppsala, 1935) and De Locis Non Nullis Apicianis Scripsit J. Svennung. (Särtryck ur Eranos vol. XXXIV) Gotoburgi 1936. Typis descr. Elanders Boktr. A.-B. [Through the good offices of Dr. Edwardt Brandt, of Munich, the above two commentaries on Apicius were received in the last moment, thanks to the courtesy of the author, L

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Transcriptions

APICII LIBRI X QVI DICVNTVR DE OBSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS SIUE ARTE COQVINARIA QVÆ EXTANT NVNC PRIMVM ANGLICE REDDIVIT PROŒMIO BIBLIOGRAPHICO ATQVE INTERPRETATIONE DEFENSIT UARIISQVE ANNOTATIONIBVS INSTRVXIT ITA ET ANTIQVÆ CVLINÆ VTENSILIARVM EFFIGIIS EXORNAUIT INDICEM DENIQVE ETYMOLOGICVM ET TECHNICVM ARTIS MAGIRICÆ ADIECIT IOSEPHVS DOMMERS UEHLING INTRODVCIT FRIDERICVS STARR {Illustration} Return to text SCHOLA APITIANA, EX OPTIMIS QVIBVSDAM authoribus diligenter ac nouiter constructa, authore Po

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