A Book Of North Wales
S. (Sabine) Baring-Gould
17 chapters
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17 chapters
A BOOK OF NORTH WALES
A BOOK OF NORTH WALES
BY S. BARING-GOULD WITH FORTY-NINE ILLUSTRATIONS METHUEN & CO. 36 ESSEX STREET W.C. LONDON 1903 CONCERNING the purpose and scope of this little book I have but to repeat what I have said in the prefaces to my other works of the same nature— A Book of the West , A Book of Dartmoor , A Book of Brittany —that it is not intended as a Guide, but merely as an introduction to North Wales, for the use of intending visitors, that they may know something of the history of that delightful land they
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CHAPTER I THE WELSH PEOPLE
CHAPTER I THE WELSH PEOPLE
The master idea in the religion of this people was the cult of ancestors, and the rude stone monuments, menhirs, cromlechs, and kistvaens they have left everywhere, where they have been, all refer to commemoration of the sacred dead. The obelisk in Egypt is the highly refined menhir, and the elaborate, ornamented tombs of the Nile valley are the expression of the same veneration for the dead, and belief in the after life connected with the tomb, that are revealed in the construction of the dolme
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CHAPTER II THE ENGLISH CONQUEST
CHAPTER II THE ENGLISH CONQUEST
Seeing the importance of Shrewsbury, William built a strong castle there. Chester, Worcester, Hereford, and Gloucester were made into fortresses, and everything was prepared for advance. In the reign of William Rufus, Deganwy, the old residence of the kings of Gwynedd, above the mouth of the Conway, was seized and fortified, and the Welsh king had to remove to Aberffraw, in Anglesey. “The conquest which now began,” says Mr. Freeman, “that which we call either the English or Norman conquest of Br
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CHAPTER III ANGLESEY
CHAPTER III ANGLESEY
As represented by Tacitus, Agricola was a Roman of the purest type, a man sincere, faithful, and affectionate in his domestic relations, and gracious in his behaviour to all men. He was upright in his dealings, a fine soldier, an able general, but inflexible in his dealings with the enemies of Rome. The ancient Roman was filled with the conviction that the gods had predestined the City on the Seven Hills to rule all nations and languages, and that such as resisted were to be treated as the enemi
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CHAPTER IV HOLYHEAD
CHAPTER IV HOLYHEAD
The line traverses the Malldraeth Marsh, and beyond Bodorgan station skirts Llyn Coron, a tarn with no picturesque surroundings, through which trickles the River Ffraw, that flows to the Aber, where once stood the residence, probably of timber, of the kings of Gwynedd. Near the Llyn is Llangadwaladr, that takes its name from the last British prince who bore the title of King of All Britain. He was the son of Cadwallon ab Cadfan, and in the church is preserved the stone that bears the sententious
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CHAPTER V BANGOR AND CARNARVON
CHAPTER V BANGOR AND CARNARVON
Of the Norman cathedral also little remains. It was a cross church with an apse to the choir, but the foundations are buried beneath the floor of the later chancel. A Norman buttress and rude round-headed windows in the south wall of the chancel are all above ground that recall the church destroyed in 1071. At the instigation of King John the city was burnt in 1212, and Bishop Robert was taken prisoner before the high altar, but ransomed for two hundred marks. The structure underwent extensive a
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CHAPTER VI SNOWDON
CHAPTER VI SNOWDON
Snowdon, or Eryri as it is called by the Welsh, has served as a fastness to which the hard-pressed princes of Gwynedd could retreat before the overwhelming power of England. It was an impregnable stronghold, and the Norman or English could not penetrate to it, and could only hope to starve into surrender those who took refuge there. It could not be approached through broad valleys. It is reached only by ravines. It was possible at any time for those sheltering in its recesses to collect unobserv
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CHAPTER VII LLEYN
CHAPTER VII LLEYN
What has stood in the way of the work of exploration has been the solitude and height at which stands the stone castle. Those undertaking the excavation would have to camp in it, and snatch the chances of bright days. Below Yr Eifl is Nant Gwrtheyrn, the Valley of Vortigern, with some mounds indicating the site of the wooden hall of this unfortunate king. Hither he retired as his last place of refuge. Unable effectively to resist the incursions of the Picts and Scots, he invited the Germans to c
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CHAPTER VIII CONWAY
CHAPTER VIII CONWAY
A short account of Archbishop Williams will not come amiss. John Williams was born at Aberconwy in 1582, and was the second son of William Williams of Cochwillan, in Carnarvonshire. At the age of sixteen he entered S. John’s College, Cambridge. He was a young man of good parts, robust constitution, and with a keen eye for the main chance. It was said of him that he never required more than three hours of sleep out of the twenty-four. He became fellow of his college in 1603. His method in study w
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CHAPTER IX S. ASAPH
CHAPTER IX S. ASAPH
He was buried at Ruthin, of which he was once warden, but there is no monument there to his memory. In the episcopal library is preserved the Red Book of S. Asaph , originally compiled in the fourteenth century, containing a fragmentary life of the saint who gives his name to the church and diocese, and early charters and other documents connected with it. The site was granted to S. Kentigern, of Glasgow, when driven away by the king of Strathclyde, Morcant, and he only returned after the defeat
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CHAPTER X DENBIGH
CHAPTER X DENBIGH
Old Denbigh occupied the area in front of the castle, but this part was abandoned about the reign of Elizabeth for New Denbigh, built at the foot of the hill, either because there was lack of water on the summit of the rock, or because the steepness of the ascent rendered a residence more convenient lower down. Now the space within the walls is unoccupied save by the little church of S. Hilary, and the ruins of a cathedral begun by the Earl of Leicester, who proposed to transfer thither the seat
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CHAPTER XI LLANGOLLEN
CHAPTER XI LLANGOLLEN
“I won’t go,” retorted the saint. BERWYN Again the messenger summoned him, and still Collen refused to be drawn. Then the messenger said, “If you don’t come, Collen, it will be the worse for you.” This disconcerted him; so, taking some holy water with him, he went. On reaching the top of the tor, Collen beheld the most beautiful castle that he had ever seen, manned by the best-appointed soldiery. A great many musicians, with all manner of instruments, made glorious music. About the hill were you
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CHAPTER XII DOLGELLEY
CHAPTER XII DOLGELLEY
A good many of us with old bones, and breath coming short, will be content to look on Cader Idris from below, or only to mount the glens to the lakes that lie around it, and leave the ultimate climb to the young bloods. The Town Council of Dolgelley has done its best to make the place attractive to visitors who have not this climbing passion on them, by laying out walks such as those of the Torrent and the Precipice, to facilitate the easy reach of striking points of view. CADER IDRIS Of the tow
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CHAPTER XIII HARLECH
CHAPTER XIII HARLECH
Matholwch was furious at the insult, and was with difficulty appeased by Bran giving him a silver rod as tall as himself and a plate of gold as wide as his face, and by assuring him that the outrage had been committed without his knowledge and against his wishes. Then Matholwch sailed away with his bride. In the course of a year she bore him a son, whom she called Gwern. Now the story of the insult offered to their king circulated in Ireland, and this produced very bitter feeling against the que
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CHAPTER XIV WELSHPOOL
CHAPTER XIV WELSHPOOL
In 1628 he married Jane, daughter of Mr. Charles Danvers, a near relative of his stepfather. “Mr. Danvers having known him long and familiarly did so much affect him that he often declared a desire that Mr. Herbert would marry any of his nine daughters, but rather his daughter Jane, because Jane was his beloved daughter. Mr. Danvers had so much commended Mr. Herbert to her, that Jane became so much a Platonick as to fall in love with Mr. Herbert unseen. This was a fair preparation for a marriage
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CHAPTER XV NEWTOWN
CHAPTER XV NEWTOWN
“ Dear Mr. Felton ,—I waited an opportunity yesterday of conferring with you in private; but, not finding the room in which you sat clear a minute, I am forced to communicate this way my thoughts. I have abundant reason to believe that you will immediately enter upon a happier state when you make an exchange, and I desire that you will do me the favour to acquaint my two Dear Wives, that I retain the same tender Affections and the same Honour and Esteem for their Memories which I ever did for th
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CHAPTER XVI MACHYNLLETH
CHAPTER XVI MACHYNLLETH
The Welsh had sympathised with Richard II., and they regarded Bolingbroke as a usurper, but would have contented themselves with singing dirges to the memory of Richard, had they not been exasperated to revolt by the violence and injustice of the Marchers. Owen, enraged against Grey de Ruthin, at first made a personal quarrel of his wrongs; but this soon developed and extended until it involved the whole of Wales, which rose against the English Crown. In 1401 King Henry marched into North Wales,
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