Three Years In Tristan Da Cunha - free ebook by Katherine Mary Barrow

THREE YEARS IN TRISTAN DA CUNHA

K. M. BARROW Wife of the Rev. J. G. Barrow, Missionary Clergyman in Tristan Da Cunha and fellow-worker with him on that island. With thirty-seven original illustrations from photographs, and a map....

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TO THE READER

The aim of the following pages is to give a simple and true description of daily life among a very small community cut off from the rest of the world. No attempt is made at literary style, the language being almost entirely that of letters to a sister or of my journal. In the first and third chapters free use has been made of the Blue Book (Cd. 3098), September 1906; and of the Africa Pilot , Part II, Fifth Edition, 1901. I desire gratefully to acknowledge to Mr. Casper Keytel of Monille Point,

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CHAPTER I

Tristan da Cunha, a British possession, is an island-mountain of volcanic origin in the South Atlantic ocean. Latitude 37° 5' 50" S.; longitude 12° 16' 40" W. Circular in form. Circumference about 21 miles. Diameter about 7 miles. Height 7,640 feet. Volcano extinct during historic times. Discovered by the Portuguese navigator Tristan da Cunha, 1506. Occupied by the British, 1816. Nearest inhabited land, the island of St. Helena, 1,200 miles to the N. In the autumn of 1904 we saw in the Standard

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CHAPTER II

On the early morning of the eighth day—it was Palm Sunday—the mountainous cliffs of Tristan could dimly be discerned. My husband had gone up on deck two or three times while it was yet dusk to see if land was visible; while I kept looking out of the porthole, although it was not a very large outlook. At about four o'clock he dressed and wrote several letters. At six o'clock, accompanied by Rob, I went on to the lower deck and could see Tristan enshrouded in mist. At about nine o'clock we arrived

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CHAPTER III

We woke up next morning realizing that we were at last, after more than a year of anticipation and months of travel, amongst the settlers on Tristan da Cunha. The present settlement dates from 1816, when a garrison was sent by the Cape Government to occupy the island, as it was thought that Tristan might be used as a base by Napoleon's friends to effect his escape from St. Helena. In February 1817 the British Government determined to withdraw the garrison, and a man-of-war was dispatched to remo

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CHAPTER IV

The last chapter has related some things that obviously came later to our knowledge. I now return to the order of my diary and letters. Monday, April 9, 1906.—Betty Cotton came in early this morning to look after our wants. She was going to get us an early cup of tea, but at my suggestion made it breakfast. Later on Graham and I wandered on to the common. It was such a beautiful morning, and the sea like a mill-pond. We found many of the women washing clothes, and had a talk with several of them

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CHAPTER V

On Easter Sunday we had eight o'clock Communion; twelve were present. As there are no Communion rails we knelt in front of two forms. Almost every family has provided a form which just gives the necessary seating accommodation. The next service was at 10:30. I am so glad we brought prayer-books and hymn-books, as not many seem to possess them. We were again struck with the heartiness of the singing. Graham spoke a few simple words on the Resurrection. All the babies were brought to church, and t

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CHAPTER VI

Sunday, April 22.—Wet all day. It has been difficult to keep dry-shod going backwards and forwards to church over the wet common and across little rivulets. We had three services: the Holy Communion at eight o'clock, to which four came; morning prayer at 10.30, when the church was about half full; and a children's service at three. Graham is acting on a suggestion of the Bishop and catechizing the children instead of having Sunday school. As the elders come too, instruction by this means is give

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CHAPTER VII

We are settling down to our daily routine. I go up to school each day at 10.30 now and take Class II in writing for half-an-hour before the infants. I have had to drop "pen pointing to the shoulder." Some of the children are very attractive. Not counting our household of three, there are now seventy-two people on the island—thirteen men, the eldest being forty-nine; twenty women, the eldest about eighty; and thirty-nine children. There are four families of Swains, not including old Caroline Swai

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CHAPTER VIII

There was such a happy scene here a few days ago. Graham was paving the pathway in front of the house with big flat stones and had a bevy of little boys helping. I much delighted them by giving each one an acorn to plant. Next day I asked Charlie what he done with his. He replied, "It's in a pawt." Wednesday, May 23.—This afternoon I have been very busy planting. The boys came early, and Graham went down with them to the beach to get a load of stones for paving. To the delight of the boys, the b

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CHAPTER IX

Wednesday, June 13 ( continued ).—On Monday we went for an expedition to the top of Burntwood. Burntwood is a grass-covered mountain slope at the other end of the settlement, and is the easiest ascent to the Base. By "the Base" the islanders mean the top of the cliffs which gird the island, and which rise one thousand to two thousand feet. William appeared early in the morning to say he had collected several donkeys and could get saddles for them. At nine o'clock we started forth, Graham, Ellen,

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CHAPTER X

Tuesday, June 26 ( continued ).—At the request of the Custom House authorities at Cape Town we brought on from there some stores which had been sent by a French firm to the Tristanites in return for kindness shown by them to one of the firm's ships which had been on fire off Tristan. In the reply of the people to the kind inquiry what stores would be most useful to them the item "soap" was read as "soup," with the result that four cases of tins of soup were received and no soap, much to their di

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CHAPTER XI

I have drawn up a list of the people, starting from the house furthest east. The figures after the names denote the age. 1. Mrs. Martha Green (widow). Mr. and Mrs. Henry Green. Alfred, 17. Ethel, 15. Maria, 11. Johnny, 9. Christopher, 1. 2. Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, senior. Charlotte, 21. Lily, 19. Ruth, 17. Selina, 9. Maggie, 7. Bill Green (lodger). 3. Mr. and Mrs. Repetto. Mary, 11. Martha, 9. Susan, 7. Arthur, 6. Willie, 4. Joe, 1. 4. Mrs. Rogers (widow). Tom. Mr. and Mrs. Sam Swain, junior. Ha

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CHAPTER XII

Friday, August 10.—We had a gale last Wednesday. It was with some difficulty we got to the women's meeting which had been postponed the day before on account of the weather; we had to go by a circuitous route. Only three women came, and I was debating whether to have the meeting when I missed my spectacles. I felt sure they had been blown off by the wind. Mrs. Repetto and Mrs. Hagan went off to search for them, and Ellen and I soon followed. It seemed rather a hopeless task as we had come by suc

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CHAPTER XIII

Monday, September 17 .—We are taking a week's holiday, but to-day there has been little rest. I was up by 7.15 to do laundry work, then at 9.30 was with Mrs. Rogers dressing her wound. This afternoon I went to see Mrs. Bob Green and her baby, also Miss Cotton. The latter seems to think these are the worst times she has known. The people have never been without milk before. The number of cattle that have died has now reached three hundred and fifteen. The cow Bob Green is trying to save is slung

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CHAPTER XIV

Monday, October 29.—On Saturday night there was such a gale from the north-west, and the sea was higher than it was all the winter, washing right up to the cliffs. We found sad destruction in the garden on Sunday morning, the flowers and vegetables being shrivelled up as if there had been a severe frost, even the grass and docks looked black; the peas which were in a most flourishing condition are ruined. Almost the only flowers that have not succumbed are those that were sheltered. Next year I

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CHAPTER XV

Thursday, November 22.—To-day when I was hanging the bird-cage on the wall of the house, Jack somehow squeezed himself through the wires and flew to the flax on the edge of the garden. I caught him, but he slipped through my fingers and flew on to the common and then back into the garden, again alighting on a flax-leaf. He is so tame he allowed me to go up to him, and I caught him once more quite easily. I have started baking bread in an iron pot after the method of the people. Thursday, Novembe

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CHAPTER XVI

Christmas Day .—We have had three services, and all have been well attended. To our surprise we found the church decorated. It was done delightfully simple; little bunches of geraniums, roses and green being hung from the beams and the walls. Nearly all were present in the morning, the women having got up early to prepare their dinners. Rebekah said she was up at 4.30. Our dinner was provided for us, the Greens sending stuffed sucking-pig and others crowberry open tarts. Alas! we had no plum-pud

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CHAPTER XVII

Wednesday, February 6 .—Yesterday when we came back from bathing we heard that the men were going off in about an hour's time to Sandy Point to gather apples from their orchards, so we decided to take a holiday and go too. It was rather a scramble to get ready, and before we had even sat down to breakfast some of the men were going to the boats. We were in the midst of baking, and I had to run up to Miss Cotton to ask her if she would kindly finish it. It had been decreed Rob was not to come, bu

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CHAPTER XVIII

Monday, March 4.—It is difficult to sit down and collect one's thoughts to write. Saturday was a most eventful day. Early in the morning soon after we had returned from bathing a ship was seen on the horizon. It was coming from the east. This is the first time a ship has come from that direction since we have been here. The excitement was great. She was seen to be tacking for the island. The excitement increased. We felt something was in store for us, possibly a mail. In due time Graham and the

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CHAPTER XIX

Wednesday, March 27.—The Cape Meteorological Commission has sent Graham the following instruments with a request that he would take regular observations— An aneroid barometer. A Fortin mercurial barometer. Dry and wet bulb hygrometers. A maximum thermometer. A minimum thermometer. A five-inch rain gauge. The hygrometers and thermometers are to be kept in a Stevenson's screen. Whether he will be able to take the readings as often as is suggested is doubtful, but it will be interesting

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CHAPTER XX

Wednesday, April 24 .—We have at last made the expedition to the Ponds. On Monday evening Henry Green sent down word that he was starting early next morning. So on Tuesday we rose at five, and two hours later Graham and I set off ahead. We were glad to get a start so as to ensure a rest before the others came up. We went over the common and down to and along Big Beach. After walking over a sandy stretch there, we climbed up the side of the mountain on to a narrow path and there awaited them. Wil

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CHAPTER XXI

Thursday, July 25 .—Sitting at breakfast we heard the joyful sound "Sail, ho!" We jumped up to look and then settled down to writing. The men were out at their potato patches, and when they got back decided not to try for the ship as she was too far east to be caught. Our hope of a ship is always raised after a north-west wind which appears to blow ships this way. But on many days this month had one come it would have been impossible for the boats to have gone out, as it was either too rough at

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CHAPTER XXII

Tuesday, September 10 .—We had the pleasure of seeing a ship today. The weather was anything but good for going out, and after they reached the shore two or three of the men decided not to go. It was really hardly fit and got more squally as the day went on. The ship, it was evident, wanted to call. When the boats got fairly near a squall came on and they nearly missed her. Indeed, they turned to come home, but the captain saw them and brought his ship round. She was the Loch Katrine , which cal

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CHAPTER XXIII

Wednesday, October 9 .—We were aroused from our slumbers this morning by Charlie Green hammering at the door, and on inquiry heard there was a ship in sight. It was a most beautiful day and the sea like a mill-pond. The men said before they started they were sure the ship was a whaler; and they were right. The people, expecting visitors, set to work to scrub their floors. In the course of the morning the first mate, a coloured man, landed with a mail from St. Helena. There were only three letter

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CHAPTER XXIV

Tuesday, November 5 .—About five o'clock this morning a gun was fired to signify that the men were going off to Inaccessible. Soon after Tom Rogers looked in to say they were starting in about an hour's time. We packed into a large tin flour, captain's biscuits, tea, coffee and sugar for Graham; Tom was taking meat, and Ellen ran down at the last moment with bread hot from the oven. They went off in three boats, cheering lustily. I believe they hope to do some sealing. It depends entirely on the

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CHAPTER XXV

Monday, December l6.—Every one is busy preparing for Christmas. There's much blueing and starching of clothes. We were up early as we have started house-cleaning. Tuesday, December l7.—The kitchen was whitewashed before breakfast, and the passage this afternoon. This time of year it is necessary to water the garden every night, the ground dries so quickly. The children come and do it for us and weed and sweep. The larder is not altogether a success. Though it has a fair amount of ventilation it

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CHAPTER XXVI

Thursday, January 30.—A small vessel has just been sighted. It looks so small that every one is wondering what it possibly can be. It is being well scanned through the telescope and is seen to be flying an English flag; in answer Repetto has run up ours. We have a faint hope that it may be bringing the mail. Later we sat for a long time on the cliff watching. One of our boats went out but could not board her, for fear of being swamped. The vessel tacked, and when it got near our boat again dropp

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CHAPTER XXVII

Thursday, March 26.—The event of events has happened, the Greyhound has come. It was first seen when we were in church on Sunday morning. Two boats went out to her and in the afternoon returned with Mr. Keytel, seventeen persons from the Cape, and the mail. Hearing Mr. Keytel had landed Graham and I sallied forth to greet him. He was looking very cheerful and well, and was accompanied by two large dogs. The mail-bags were soon brought to the house. But Mr. Keytel said before anything was done he

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CHAPTER XXVIII

Easter Sunday .—Very few elders were at either morning or afternoon service, only two or three of the regular ones. Graham was not able to get out, but is improving. The men were occupied in getting the sheep down to the shore, but in the end were not able to put off, for heavy rain came on and the sea grew rough; one boat started, but had to come back. Monday, April 20.—No business could be done with the ship to-day; it had been blown eastward. The weather has been bad and there have been heavy

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CHAPTER XXIX

Monday, June 1.—We are to have a Christmas tree. It will be the first that has been seen on the island. Various friends have sent us toys, pinafores, pens, pencils and coloured candles, so we shall not lack things to dress it with; and Mr. Keytel is kindly providing sweets, for which we are already busy making muslin bags out of patterns. He and Repetto are going up the mountain to choose a straight bushy tree. Saturday, June 6.—Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday were devoted to preparations for the

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CHAPTER XXXI

Saturday, September 26.—The weeks are flying fast. In November we shall begin packing, so as to be ready in case a ship should call for us. We shall leave the furniture to be put by for any future clergyman. Yesterday we had again to take the harmonium to pieces, as another note had gone wrong. We could find nothing amiss except that the note squeaked when pressed; it, however, came all right after the board had been placed near the fire. To-day old Eliza Hagan had tea with us. She is now withou

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CHAPTER XXXII

Saturday, October 24.—We have had an unusually exciting day. The small vessel that was sighted yesterday evening and which the people felt sure was an American whaler was seen again this morning. As it was making for the island the men did not hurry to go out. At last three boats went off. It was rather breezy. When the first boat reached the ship, to our surprise it at once began to return, and the other two did not go on. Soon after two o'clock Charlotte Swain came running up from the beach, q

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CHAPTER XXXIII

Friday, November 20.—Last night Mr. Keytel had a meeting of all the men, at which he asked Graham to be present as he wanted him to hear everything. He had drawn up an agreement to work for him for three years, which he invited all the men to sign except Bob Glass, with whom he will have no dealings. He spoke very plainly to the men and told them they had not been straightforward with him. To name one thing, they had never told him the sheep had scab. As a consequence the sheep sent to the Cape

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CHAPTER XXXIV

Seal Bay, Monday, December 28.—Well, I must tell of all our doings from the beginning. We went to bed last night before eight, and were up this morning by four o'clock. Our packing did not take long. My possessions were a rug, air cushion, bathing dress, pair of stockings, comb, towel, tooth-brush, soap, knitting, a gospel, sketching things, a book and camera. We started at six, Ellen, Mary Repetto and Sophy Rogers accompanying us as far as the Bluff, which is five miles out. Ellen and I rode on

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CHAPTER XXXV

Tuesday, January 5, 1909 .—We have had another excursion. Thinking we would make the most of the holiday, yesterday we went with some of the young people up to the Ponds. It was our intention to start early, but the weather looked uncertain, so we waited awhile. At last we started off. Our party of eleven included Alfred, Maria and Johnny Green, William and Sophy Rogers, Emma Hagan, and Mary, Martha and Susan Repetto. We had a short walk over the sands going east, and then one of the stiff climb

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CHAPTER XXXVI

We have now quite made up our minds not to go by any ship bound for Australia, as we have the Greyhound to fall back upon. Wednesday, February l7.—This afternoon, as I was contemplating a walk with Graham, Susie Repetto came to ask me to go up and see Martha, who in chopping wood had cut her foot rather badly with an axe. I found she had done it this morning; it was a bad gash on the top of the foot, and had bled profusely. Her father had bound it up, and told them to ask me to go up and see to

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CHAPTER XXXVII

On the Svend Foyne . Monday, April 5.—Well, we are on our homeward road at last! I must go back and relate events from the beginning. On Wednesday afternoon, feeling a little tired, I had taken my chair outside in front of the cottage and nearly fell asleep. I fancied I heard a sound of "Sail, ho!" but thinking it was the children at play, I thought no more of it, although Rob at once looked up. Presently two of the young girls rushed down to the house, calling out, "Three steamers from the west

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APPENDICES

There is nothing peculiar to Tristan in either its Fauna or Flora. Of the birds those we saw or heard most of were:— 1. The Gony, the Wandering Albatross ( Diomedia exulans ). A few lay on Inaccessible but none on Tristan. 2. The "Pe-o," the Sooty Albatross ( Phoebetria fuliginosa ). Comes to nest in August, leaves in April. 3. The Molly, Yellow-nosed Mollyhawk ( Thalassogeron chlororhyncus ). Comes to nest in August, leaves in April. 4. The Sea-hen, the Southern Skua ( Stercorarius antarcticus

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