The Gourmet's Guide To Europe
Algernon Bastard
19 chapters
5 hour read
Selected Chapters
19 chapters
Publisher's Announcement
Publisher's Announcement
DINNERS AND DINERS: Where and how to Dine in London By Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis New and Revised Edition Small Crown 8vo. Cloth. 3/6 WHERE AND HOW TO DINE IN PARIS By Rowland Strong Fcap. 8vo. Cover designed cloth. 2/6 London : GRANT RICHARDS London : GRANT RICHARDS...
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
To Europe
To Europe
BY AND The pleasures of the table are common to all ages and ranks, to all countries and times; they not only harmonise with all the other pleasures, but remain to console us for their loss. Brillat Savarin ....
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PREFACE
PREFACE
Often enough, staying in a hotel in a foreign town, I have wished to sally forth and to dine or breakfast at the typical restaurant of the place, should there be one. Almost invariably I have found great difficulty in obtaining any information regarding any such restaurant. The proprietor of the caravanserai at which one is staying may admit vaguely that there are eating-houses in the town, but asks why one should be anxious to seek for second-class establishments when the best restaurant in the
2 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER I
CHAPTER I
The "Cuisine de Paris"—A little ancient history—Restaurants with a "past"—The restaurants of to-day—Over the river—Open-air restaurants—Supping-places—Miscellaneous. Paris is the culinary centre of the world. All the great missionaries of good cookery have gone forth from it, and its cuisine was, is, and ever will be the supreme expression of one of the greatest arts in the world. Most of the good cooks come from the south of France, most of the good food comes from the north. They meet at Paris
42 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER II
CHAPTER II
The northern ports—Norman and Breton towns—The west coast and Bordeaux—Marseilles and the Riviera—The Pyrenees—Provence—Aix-les-Bains and other "cure" places. I propose to take you, my gastronomic reader, first on a little tour round the coast of France from north-east round to south-east, pausing at any port or any watering-place where there is any restaurant of any mark, and then to make a few incursions inland. Calais is, of course, our starting-place, and here my experience of leaving the bu
52 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER III
CHAPTER III
The food of the country—Antwerp—Spa—Bruges—Ostende. I, the Editor, cannot do better in commencing this chapter than to introduce you to H.L., a littérateur and a "fin gourmet," living in Belgium, who has written the notes on "the food of the country" on Antwerp and Spa, and to whom I am indebted for the entire succeeding chapter on the Brussels' restaurants. The Belgian is a big eater and a bird-eater. As a rule, in Belgium the restaurant that can put forth the longest menu will attract the most
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER IV
The Savoy—The Epaule de Mouton—The Faille Déchirée—The Lion d'Or—The Regina—The Helder—The Filet de Sole—Wiltcher's—Justine's—The Etoile—The Belveder—The Café Riche—Duranton's—The Laiterie—Miscellaneous. Brussels must have been a gayer city than the Brussels of to-day when it earned the title of "a little Paris." There is at the present time very little indeed of Paris about the Belgian capital, and, in the matter of restaurants, there is a marked contrast between the two cities. Here the latter
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER V
Restaurants at the Hague—Amsterdam—Scheveningen—Rotterdam—The food of the people. At the Hague, the capital, the best restaurant is Van der Pyl's, in the centre of the town, situated on the Plaats, where the cuisine is French and excellent, and where there are admirable wines in the cellar. A good set luncheon is served at this restaurant for the very moderate price of one florin (1s. 8d.); but it is wise to order dinner à la carte , and to give them some hours' notice. The manager is M. Anjema.
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VI
The cookery of the country—Rathskeller and beer-cellars—Dresden—Münich—Nüremburg—Hanover— Leipsic—Frankfurt—Düsseldorf—The Rhine valley—"Cure" places—Kiel—Hamburg. A German housewife who is a good cook can do marvels with a goose, having half-a-dozen stuffings for it, and she knows many other ways of treating a hare than roasting it or "jugging" it. She also is cunning in the making of the bitter-sweet salads and purées which are eaten with the more tasteless kinds of meat; but, unfortunately, t
38 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VII
Up-to-date restaurants—Supping-places—Military cafés—Night restaurants. Twenty years ago Berlin had no restaurant worthy of the name, now of course they are plentiful; in many instances, however, showy paintings, bad gilding, and heavy decorations seem to atone with a certain class of the public for inferior matériel and mediocre cookery. The Monopole part of the Hôtel-Restaurant L. Schaurté is first-rate, and the set dinner for the price is as good as one could get anywhere. I append an everyda
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER VIII
Lucerne—Basle—Bern—Geneva—Davos Platz. Switzerland is a country of hotels and not of restaurants. In most of the big towns the hotels have restaurants attached to them, and in some of these a dinner ordered à la carte is just as well cooked as in a good French restaurant, and served as well; in other restaurants attached to good hotels the table-d'hôte dinner is served at separate tables at any time between certain hours, and this is the custom of most of the restaurants in most of the better cl
7 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
Italian cookery and wines—Turin—Milan— Genoa—Venice—Bologna— Spezzia—Florence— Pisa—Leghorn—Rome—Naples—Palermo. There is no cookery in Europe so often maligned without cause as that of Italy. People who are not sure of their facts often dismiss it contemptuously as being "all garlic and oil," whereas very little oil is used except at Genoa, where oil, and very good oil as a rule, takes the place of butter, and no more garlic than is necessary to give a slight flavour to the dishes in which it p
25 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER X
CHAPTER X
Food and wines of the country—Barcelona—San Sebastian—Bilbao—Madrid—Seville— Bobadilla—Grenada—Jerez— Algeciras—Lisbon—Estoril. A candid Frenchman, who had lived long in Spain, asked as to the cookery of Spain compared with that of other nations, replied, "It is worse even than that of the English, which is the next worst." That Frenchman was, however, rather ungrateful, for the Spaniards taught the French how to stuff turkeys with chestnuts. The Spanish cooks also first understood that an orang
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XI
Viennese restaurants and cafés—Baden—Carlsbad—Marienbad—Prague—Bad Gastein—Budapesth. The cuisine of the best of the Viennese restaurants, those attached to the big hotels, is French, though the Wiener Rostbraten and the Wiener Schnitzel are world-famous, and the typical Viennese dinner is a good French dinner with the addition of very delicious bread and pastry made with a lighter hand than any Gallic cook brings to his task. The wines of the country of Retz, Mailberg, Pfaffstadt, Gumpoldskirch
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XII
The dishes of the country—The restaurants of Bucarest. In Roumania you must never be astonished at the items set down in the bill of fare, and if "bear" happens to be one try it, for bruin does not make at all bad eating. The list of game is generally surprisingly large, and one learns in Roumania the difference there is in the venison which comes from the different breeds of deer. Caviar, being the produce of the country, is a splendid dish, and you are always asked which of the three varieties
3 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIII
Stockholm restaurants—Malmö—Storvik—Gothenburg—Christiana—Copenhagen—Elsinore. Of all the restaurants in the capital of Sweden the Hasselbacken, in the Royal Djurgarten Park, is the most interesting to visit should it be open, which it is from the beginning of March till the end of September. During the early part of the season Tziganes play in one of the small rooms, whereas in summer a somewhat noisy orchestra plays in the garden. The price of dinner, à prix fixe , is 3 kronor 50 öre; this inc
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XIV
Food of the country—Restaurants in Moscow—The dining places of St. Petersburg—Odessa—Warsaw. The Russians are a nation of gourmands, for the Zakouska , the potatoes and celery, spiced eels, stuffed crayfish, chillies stuffed with potato, olives, minced red cabbage, smoked goose-flesh, smoked salmon, smoked sturgeon, raw herring, pickled mushrooms, radishes, caviar, and a score of other "appetisers," and the petits patés , the Rastegai (tiny pies of the lightest paste with a complicated fish stuf
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XV
Turkish dishes—Constantinople restaurants. One of the hotels in the restaurant at which very good food is obtainable is the Pera Palace; but the hundreds of dogs that are allowed to infest the city for scavenging purposes, and who disgracefully neglect their business in order to bark and howl dismally all night, would ruin the best hotel in creation. Therefore, if in the summer, I should advise any man to go to the Summer Palace Hotel at Therapia, a few miles from the city, on the Bosphorus, whi
3 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XVI
CHAPTER XVI
Grecian Dishes—Athens. No one lives better than a well-to-do Greek outside his own country, and when he is in Greece his cook manages to do a great deal with comparatively slight material. A Greek cook can make a skewered pigeon quite palatable, and the number of ways he has of cooking quails, from the simple method of roasting them cased in bay leaves to all kinds of mysterious bakings after they have been soused in oil, are innumerable. There are pillaus without number in the Greek cuisine, ch
2 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter