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The Story of Man In Yellowstone
The Story of Man In Yellowstone
By MERRILL D. BEAL Seasonal Park Naturalist, Yellowstone National Park; Professor of History, Idaho State College Approved by the National Park Service Yellowstone Interpretive Series Number 7 Revised Edition Illustrated 1960 Published By The Yellowstone Library and Museum Association Yellowstone Park, Wyoming Copyright, 1949 By The Caxton Printers, Ltd. Caldwell, Idaho Copyright, 1956 By The Yellowstone Library and Museum Association Yellowstone Park, Wyoming Copyright, 1960 By The Yellowstone
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YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE SERIES
YELLOWSTONE INTERPRETIVE SERIES
Orders or letters of inquiry concerning publications should be addressed to the Yellowstone Library and Museum Association, Yellowstone Park, Wyoming....
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PREFACE
PREFACE
Yellowstone National Park lives as a cherished memory in the minds of millions of people. Greater still is the number who anticipate a visit to this Wonderland. To nearly all, the Park stands as a symbol of the enrichment of the American way of life. And well it might, because it is a geological paradise, a pristine botanical garden, and an Elysium for wild game. But most important of all, it is a place of recreation for countless thousands who come to find a temporary escape from the pressure o
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Former Superintendent Edmund B. Rogers and Park Naturalist David de L. Condon gave me access to the records of the Park. Their interest in advancing the knowledge of Yellowstone has been keen and constant. My Yellowstone Park ranger-colleagues also served as sources of information and occasional critics. It is probable that each of them will be able to identify an element of his own thought or expression in the narrative. As my campfire lectures evolved into a unified monograph, guidance was rec
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
It is interesting and significant that this book, telling the story of man in the area of our oldest National Park, should be available soon after a season of record-breaking public use of the area. During the travel year 1948, one million thirty-one thousand five hundred and thirty-one people visited Yellowstone National Park. The discoverer of The Yellowstone Country early in the nineteenth century, and re-discoverers through the years prior to 1872, as well as all visitors to the Park before
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OUTDOORS
OUTDOORS
O, give me a bit of the great outdoors Is all that I ask of you, Where I may do whatever I like And like whatever I do. Where the sky is the boundary up above And the earth is the measure below, And the trail starts on where the sun comes up And ends where the sun sinks low. Where the wind blows sweet as a baby’s breath, And the sun shines bright as its eyes, And the showers come and the showers go As the tears when the little one cries. And the brook runs merrily through the glade, Singing its
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Chapter I YELLOWSTONE—THE GEM OF THE MOUNTAINS
Chapter I YELLOWSTONE—THE GEM OF THE MOUNTAINS
Yellowstone National Park was one of the last regions in the United States to come into the scope of man’s knowledge. This fact is partly responsible for its development as a wild animal retreat. Grizzlies and people do not go well together under natural conditions. Yet nature has bequeathed a rare portion of her treasure upon this enchanting land that forms the crown of the Rockies. Within the confines of what the world calls Yellowstone the visitor may find great and wondrous manifestations of
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Chapter II JOHN COLTER’S DISCOVERY OF YELLOWSTONE
Chapter II JOHN COLTER’S DISCOVERY OF YELLOWSTONE
It is a fairly well-attested fact that America was first discovered by Leif Ericsson about 1000 A.D. [15] However, as Mark Twain put it, “America did not stay discovered,” and therefore Columbus is not to be denied. So it was with Yellowstone. The most significant feature of its early history lies in the inconclusive nature of the early reports concerning its position and character. Yellowstone’s isolation was not effectively invaded and broken until the decade of 1860. This narrative will expla
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Chapter III INDIANS IN AND AROUND YELLOWSTONE
Chapter III INDIANS IN AND AROUND YELLOWSTONE
A description of the Indian background is an integral part of all early American history. An appreciation of the “Old West” is impossible without an understanding of the Indian problem. Yellowstone was not the original homeland of any distinct Indian tribe. In comparatively recent time, probably about 1800, it became the refuge for a small and degenerate band of Tukuarika, or sheep-eating Indians. They had formerly lived in the Montana and Dakota country but had been driven into seclusion by the
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Chapter IV PORTRAIT OF A TRAPPER BRIGADE
Chapter IV PORTRAIT OF A TRAPPER BRIGADE
The character of the barbarian elements that encircled the Yellowstone area has been given. Their position was sufficiently menacing to prevent penetration of the continental crown except by a chosen few. The relation of the trapper’s activity to the Park can only be appreciated by an examination of the subject himself. The Rocky Mountain fur trappers were a distinct group. They were just as singular in dress, interests, skills, and general characteristics as the cowboys and miners who succeeded
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Chapter V WERE INDIANS AFRAID OF YELLOWSTONE?
Chapter V WERE INDIANS AFRAID OF YELLOWSTONE?
Beginning with the origin of Yellowstone as a National Park the idea became current that Indians were afraid of the area. The opinion is still widely held that they considered it a cursed domain, unfit for habitation. While it is true that superstition and taboo loomed large in primitive experience, there is no reason to suppose that Indians gave Wonderland a wide berth. [87] Rather, there is an abundance of material evidence that controverts this view. Furthermore, the proposition is at once il
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Parties in Search of Fur
Parties in Search of Fur
The streams of the Rocky Mountains were thoroughly exploited by the trappers in the twenties and thirties. Notwithstanding the paucity of evidence concerning Yellowstone visitations, it is unreasonable to believe her great rivers were neglected. These phantomlike trapper men went everywhere, saw everything, tarried only long enough to strip furry coverings from the beaver, and vanished. On rare occasion a bit of artifact shows up: an initialed rock or tree, a broken trap or flintlock, a group of
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Parties in Search of Gold
Parties in Search of Gold
Another series of partial exploration was inaugurated in the early sixties by the Argonauts. Nature’s distribution of precious metals is rather far-flung in western America. Therefore, miners were not inclined toward geographic discrimination. Spirit brothers to the trappers, they searched the Rockies with wonderful energy and daring. Deep snow, arctic cold, yawning precipices, and fierce Indians were all defied in their eager quest for a new Eldorado. It would have been strange indeed if they h
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Chapter VII JIM BRIDGER—MAN AND LEGEND
Chapter VII JIM BRIDGER—MAN AND LEGEND
It is customary to assign an extraordinary disregard for truth to Jim Bridger. At times he appears as a rantipole hero, and undoubtedly he drew the long bow to unparalleled tension in matters of adventure. Still, he achieved excellent recommendations for reliability and trustworthiness from all the government officials who had business in the West. Surely Bridger was such a contradictory personage as to warrant investigation. Jim was the son of James and Chloe Bridger. He was born in Richmond, V
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The Folsom-Cook-Peterson Exploration
The Folsom-Cook-Peterson Exploration
Even this effort proved abortive, due to Indian unrest and the failure of the military at Fort Ellis to furnish an escort. However, there were several men living at Diamond City on the Missouri River, forty miles below Helena, who were enrolled and waiting to join the Helena party. When word arrived of the postponement they decided to set out by themselves. This little expedition consisted of Hon. David E. Folsom, C. W. Cook, and William Peterson. Folsom and Cook were unusually intelligent men,
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The Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition
The Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition
It was these articulate reports of Folsom, Cook, and Peterson that electrified the natural interest of Helena’s intellectual leadership. Thereafter, Langford and his associates were burning to effect a grand expedition and achieve conclusive results. General Phil Sheridan gave the project his blessing and the assurance of a military escort. A congenial personnel was sifted out, consisting of Hon. Nathaniel P. Langford, Hon. Cornelius Hedges, Hon. Truman C. Everts, Hon. Samuel T. Hauser, Walter T
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Lost in the Wilderness
Lost in the Wilderness
In Yellowstone even now the wilderness is almost within rifle-shot of the Grand Loop highway. Furthermore, the area’s conformation to a vast plateau renders it relatively deficient in accessible landmarks. Hedges and Stickney were inadvertently separated from the party on September 8, but they stumbled upon the camp by nightfall. The very next day Mr. Everts unintentionally drifted away from his associates. By evening he was laboriously embroiled in the forest labyrinth southeast of Lake Yellows
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Chapter IX CREATION OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
Chapter IX CREATION OF YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
The return of Everts operated as a springboard for an attempt to get government action. Graphic accounts of the exploration in general filled the columns of the Helena Herald during October. An article written by Cornelius Hedges, which appeared in the issue of November 9, suggested an extension of Montana’s southern boundary to include the whole Yellowstone region. He also outlined the proposal for appropriation of the same for public purposes. An excited public interest consumed every issue. B
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Chapter X THE LAST ROUNDUP
Chapter X THE LAST ROUNDUP
Before Yellowstone could become accessible as a national playground a certain evolution of security had to take place. Indian tribes and buffalo herds were hindrances to both colonization and travel. A double-action roundup was needed to clear the way for an ephemeral phase, known as cattle days on the open range, and ultimate colonization within the approaches of the Park. The early clash of white trappers and Indians has been reviewed. Passing of time worked no respite. Indeed, occasional fric
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The Radersburg Tourists
The Radersburg Tourists
The Nez Percé spent the night of August 23 in camp on the banks of the Firehole River, above the narrows. At daybreak the next morning several Indians appeared in the camp of some tourists from Radersburg, Montana. The personnel of this party were Mr. and Mrs. George F. Cowan; Mrs. Cowan’s brother and sister, Frank and Ida Carpenter; Charles Mann; William Dingee; Albert Oldham; A. J. Arnold; and Henry Myers. A prospector, named Harmon, was also associated with the Cowan party at this time. These
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The Helena Tourist Party
The Helena Tourist Party
Other Yellowstone visitors were caught in the Nez Percé net as it rolled across the Park. It has been sufficiently indicated that Chief Joseph maintained a role of dignified restraint, but there were unprincipled factions under less responsible leadership which he could not keep under his thumb. While the main tribe was slowly weaving its course through the Park some of the reckless young men were foraging far and wide. It is also correct to observe that bitter resentment had been smoldering tow
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Chapter XII TRAVEL AND ACCOMMODATIONS—NEW BUSINESSES
Chapter XII TRAVEL AND ACCOMMODATIONS—NEW BUSINESSES
The narration of trapper and miner visits and the account of final discovery have already described the difficulties of early travel in Yellowstone. Little segments of animal and Indian trails were all that broke the untraveled wilderness. Since no funds were available for any purpose before 1877, the trail building progress made before that date was negligible. [219] Until that time all visitors came on horseback, but while they generally went to the same places their approaches were different.
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Chapter XIII “THE YELLOWSTONE IDEA”
Chapter XIII “THE YELLOWSTONE IDEA”
It has already been disclosed that Yellowstone Park has served the nation as an experimental unit in certain fields of conservation. While this is true, it would not be correct to regard the Park as the single place of origin for such a complex and salutary movement. Today the conservation of natural resources is one of America’s most popular and cherished causes, but it was not always so. A brief review of the conservation issue will provide a background for a correct appraisal of the position
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Chapter XIV GENERAL ADMINISTRATION
Chapter XIV GENERAL ADMINISTRATION
Nathaniel P. Langford was appointed Superintendent of Yellowstone National Park on May 10, 1872. No salary was allowed, but nothing daunted, on July 4 he arranged to join the Snake River detachment of Dr. F. V. Hayden’s second expedition. This party employed as guide one Richard Leigh, better known as “Beaver Dick.” This picturesque squaw man and his wife, Jenny, with her brood, not only acted as scout but also as friend and entertainer. “Beaver Dick” knew the Tetons and south Yellowstone countr
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Chapter XV THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
Chapter XV THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
Although there were thirteen national parks in 1912, each received a separate appropriation and had separate management. The business of these playgrounds was scattered among three departments, and nowhere in Washington was there a single official or desk wholly devoted to their interest. [335] To this problem Stephen Tyng Mather brought high intelligence, sound philosophy, and supreme endeavor. By 1915 he had achieved administrative experience that ripened into wisdom equal to undertake the pre
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Appendix I YOUNG MEN CAMPING IN YELLOWSTONE WILDERNESS
Appendix I YOUNG MEN CAMPING IN YELLOWSTONE WILDERNESS
An adaptation of Rudyard Kipling’s “The Feet of the Young Men” By Merrill D. Beal When Yellowstone Park is opened then the smokes of council rise, Pleasant smokes ’ere yet twixt trail and trail they choose. Then the ropes and girths are tested while they pack their last supplies, Now the young men head for camps beyond the Tetons! Faith will lead them to those altars, hope will light them to that shrine, Pilot knobs will safely guide them to their goal. They must go, go, go, away from home! On t
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Appendix II THE PROBLEM OF “COLTER’S ROUTE IN 1807”
Appendix II THE PROBLEM OF “COLTER’S ROUTE IN 1807”
It may seem unfruitful at this time to attempt a solution of the problem of John Colter’s 1807 route of discovery in Yellowstone. Many people require no proof of anything cited in the records of such great scouts as Jedediah S. Smith, Kit Carson, and John Colter. Their integrity need not be questioned. Still, it is within the province of the historian to sift and test all of the evidence until the truth falls into place as elements in a jigsaw puzzle. Even myths and legends should be examined fo
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BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE
BIBLIOGRAPHICAL NOTE
In the preparation of the first four chapters the use of explorer and trapper journals was imperative. The Journals of Lewis and Clark , Patrick Gass’s Journal , and Robert Stuart’s Discovery of the Oregon Trail are basic. Trapper activities and Indian life are effectively treated by Stallo Vinton in John Colter ; Alexander Ross, The Fur Hunters of the Far West ; Hiram Chittenden, The American Fur Trade ; John Neihardt, The Splendid Wayfaring ; J. Cecil Alter, Jim Bridger, Trapper, Frontiersman,
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MANUSCRIPT MATERIAL
MANUSCRIPT MATERIAL
Anderson, E. C. Diary 1909. Park Library, Mammoth, Wyoming. Anderson, Henry. Diary 1910, 1911. Park Library. Brown, Jesse R. Diary 1909, 1910. Park Library. Burgess, Felix. Diary 1898, 1899. Park Library. Cook, C. W. “Remarks of C. W. Cook, Last Survivor of the Original Explorers of the Yellowstone Park Region.” Park Library. Dorrity, Mrs. James. “Story of the Battle of Bear’s Paw.” M. D. Beal Collection, Idaho State College, Pocatello, Idaho. Fitzgerald, S. M. Diary 1907. Park Library, Mammoth,
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PRINTED JOURNALS, DIARIES AND AUTOBIOGRAPHIES
PRINTED JOURNALS, DIARIES AND AUTOBIOGRAPHIES
Bradbury, John. Travels in the Interior Of America, 1809, 1810, and 1811. London: Sherwood Neeley, and Jones, 1819. Carson, Kit. Autobiography. Chicago: Lakeside Press, 1935. Contributions , Historical Society of Montana, I, II, III, IV, V. Helena, Montana: Rocky Mountain Publishing Co., 1876. Dunraven, The Earl of. Hunting in the Yellowstone. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1925. Egan, Howard. Pioneering the West. Egan Estate. Richmond, Utah. Ferris, Warren A. Life in the Rocky Mountains, 1830-35.
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ARTICLES IN MAGAZINES AND PERIODICALS
ARTICLES IN MAGAZINES AND PERIODICALS
Baker, Ray S. “A Place of Marvels,” The Century Magazine , LXVI (August, 1903). Bauer, C. Max. “Notes on Indian Occupancy,” Yellowstone Nature Notes , Vol. XII, No. 6 (June, 1935). Bryce, James. “National Parks the Need for the Future,” The Outlook , CII (Dec. 14, 1912). Cook, C. W. “Valley of the Upper Yellowstone,” Western Monthly , IV (July, 1870). Cook, C. W. and Folsom, D. E. “Cook-Folsom Expedition to the Yellowstone Region 1869,” Haynes Bulletin , Jan., 1923. Elmendorf, Dwight L. The Ment
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GOVERNMENT REPORTS AND PUBLICATIONS
GOVERNMENT REPORTS AND PUBLICATIONS
Barlow, J. W. and Heap, D. P. Report of Barlow and Heap 1871 . Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1872. Congressional Globe. 42 Congress, 2nd Session, 1871-72. Part I, Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1872. Congressional Record. 43 Congress, Session I, Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1874. Laws and Regulations relating to the Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, by the Secretary of the Interior. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1908. Ludlow, Will
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SPECIAL BOOKS AND BULLETINS
SPECIAL BOOKS AND BULLETINS
Allen, Eugene T. and Day, Arthur L. Hot Springs of the Yellowstone National Park. Washington, D.C.: Carnegie Institution, 1935. Alter, J. Cecil. James Bridger, Trapper, Frontiersman, Scout and Guide. Salt Lake City: Shepard Book Co., 1925. Arnold, Ross R. Indian Wars in Idaho. Caldwell, Idaho: Caxton Printers, 1929. Bennett, Hugh H. “Thomas Jefferson Soil Conservationist.” U.S. Department of Agriculture , No. 548. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office, 1944. Catlin, George. North American
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GENERAL SECONDARY REFERENCES
GENERAL SECONDARY REFERENCES
Adams, James Truslow. The Epic of America. Boston: Little Brown and Co., 1933. Bancroft, H. H. History of Washington, Montana and Idaho. San Francisco: The History Company, 1896. Beal, M. D. History of Southeastern Idaho. Caldwell, Idaho: Caxton Printers, 1942. Brockett, L. P. Our Western Empire. San Francisco: William Garretson and Co., 1881. Chittenden, Hiram M. The American Fur Trade. New York: Press of the Pioneers, 1935. Chittenden, Hiram M. Yellowstone National Park. Palo Alto, California:
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