Southern Arabia - free ebook by J. Theodore (James Theodore) Bent

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Southern Arabia

J. Theodore (James Theodore) Bent

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PREFACE

PREFACE

If my fellow-traveller had lived, he intended to have put together in book form such information as we had gathered about Southern Arabia. Now, as he died four days after our return from our last journey there, I have had to undertake the task myself. It has been very sad to me, but I have been helped by knowing that, however imperfect this book may be, what is written here will surely be a help to those who, by following in our footsteps, will be able to get beyond them, and to whom I so hearti

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BIBLIOGRAPHY

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Abu'lfida Ismael ibn Ali Imad ed din, Prince or King of Hamar.— Géographie d'Aboulfida , traduite de l'Arabe et accompagnée de notes et d'éclaircissements par M. Reinaud, par M. S. Guyard. Paris, 1848-83. Baros, João de.— Dos feitos que os Portugueses fizeram . 1778-80. Binning, Robert.— A Journal of Two Years' Travel in Persia, Ceylon, &amp;c. 1857. Bunbury, Sir E. H.— Ancient Geography among the Greeks and Romans . 1879. Cartas de Alfonzo de Albuquerque.— Commentaries of Albuquerque , Hakl

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MAPS

MAPS

MAP OF HADRAMUT. Map of ARABIA showing the routes of M r. J. THEODORE BENT. Stanford's Geog. l Estab. t , London London: Smith, Elder &amp; Co. ...

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CHAPTER I

CHAPTER I

The first Arabian journey that we undertook was in 1889, when we visited the Islands of Bahrein in the Persian Gulf; we were attracted by stories of mysterious mounds, and we proposed to see what we could find inside them, hoping, as turned out to be the fact, that we should discover traces of Phœnician remains. The search for traces of an old world takes an excavator now and again into strange corners of the new. Out of the ground he may extract treasures, or he may not—that is not our point he

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CHAPTER II

CHAPTER II

And now behold us excavators on the way to the scene of our labours. Six camels conveyed our tents, a seventh carried goat-skins full of water. Four asses groaned under our personal effects; hens for consumption rode in a sort of lobster-pot by the side of clattering pickaxes and chairs; six policemen, or peons , were in our train, each on a donkey. One carried a paraffin lamp, another a basket of eggs on the palm of his hand, and as there were no reins and no stirrups, the wonder is that these

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CHAPTER III

CHAPTER III

During the time that we spent at Ali we had numerous visitors. The first day came five camels with two riders apiece, and a train of donkeys, bringing rich pearl merchants from the capital; these sat in a circle and complacently drank our coffee and ate our mixed biscuits, without in any way troubling us, having apparently come for no other object than to get this slender refreshment. Next day came Sheikh Mohammed, a young man of seventeen, a nephew of Sheikh Esau, who was about to wed his uncle

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CHAPTER IV

CHAPTER IV

On two separate occasions we visited Maskat. The first time was in 1889 on our way to Persia, and the second in 1895 when we were starting for Dhofar, on the journey which I shall describe later. On each occasion we had to reach it by way of India, for like all the rest of the Persian Gulf Maskat is really an outlying portion of our Indian Empire. By just crossing a range of mountains in Persia you cross the metaphorical watershed between our India and Foreign Offices. At Shiraz you hesitate bet

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CHAPTER V

CHAPTER V

I never saw a place so void of architectural features as the town of Maskat itself. The mosques have neither domes nor minarets—a sign of the rigid Wahabi influence which swept over Arabia. This sect refuse to have any feature about their buildings, or ritual which was not actually enjoined by Mohammed in his Koran. There are a few carved lintels and doorways, and the bazaars are quaintly pretty, but beyond this the only architectural features are Portuguese. All traces of the Portuguese rule ar

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CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER VI

After our journeys in South Africa and Abyssinia, it was suggested to my husband that a survey of the Hadhramout by an independent traveller would be useful to the Government; so in the winter of 1893-94 we determined to do our best to penetrate into this unknown district, which anciently was the centre of the frankincense and myrrh trade, one of the most famed commercial centres of 'Araby the Blest,' before Mohammedan fanaticism blighted all industries and closed the peninsula to the outer worl

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CHAPTER VII

CHAPTER VII

Never shall I forget the confusion of our start. Mokaik and ten of his men appeared at seven in the morning of the day before in our rooms, with all the lowest beggars of Makalla in their train, and were let loose on our seventy packages like so many demons from Jehannam, yelling and quarrelling with one another. First of all the luggage had to be divided into loads for twenty-two camels, then they drew lots for these loads with small sticks, then they drew lots for us riders, and finally we had

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CHAPTER VIII

CHAPTER VIII

Having left these villages behind us, we climbed rapidly higher and higher, until at an elevation of over 4,000 feet we found ourselves at last on a broad, level table-land, stretching as far as the eye could reach in every direction. This is no doubt the 'Maratha Mountains' of Ptolemy, the Mons Excelsus of Pliny, [8] which shuts off the Hadhramout, where once flourished the frankincense and the myrrh. Words cannot express the desolate aspect of this vast table-land, Akaba or the 'going-up,' as

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CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER IX

When we reached the foot of the hill on which Hagarein stands we dismounted; there was tremendous work to get out the sword of the oldest soldier; he had used it so much as a walking-stick that it was firmly fixed in the scabbard. The scabbards are generally covered with white calico. A very steep, winding, slippery road led us to the gate, where soldiers received us and conducted us to a courtyard, letting off guns the while. There stood the Sultan Abdul M'Barrek Hamout al Kaiti, a very fat, ev

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CHAPTER X

CHAPTER X

Like a fairy palace of the Arabian Nights, white as a wedding cake, and with as many battlements and pinnacles, with its windows painted red, the colour being made from red sandstone, and its balustrades decorated with the inevitable chevron pattern, the castle of Al Koton rears its battlemented towers above the neighbouring brown houses and expanse of palm groves; behind it rise the steep red rocks of the encircling mountains, the whole forming a scene of Oriental beauty difficult to describe i

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CHAPTER XI

CHAPTER XI

On January 17 we started from Al Koton with only seven of our camels and two of the sultan's packed with forage, to be away several days. The sultan wished to lend his horses, but my husband refused. However, he had to ride one, a grey, for fear of giving offence, and this was given to him as a present afterwards, and he rode it whenever the rocks allowed till we reached the coast. We eventually sent this horse, Zubda (butter), and my Basha back to their respective donors, though they really exp

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CHAPTER XII

CHAPTER XII

On January 25 we started for Shibahm, carpets having been sent forward the day before. The sultan was to follow us in a day or two, when some sheikhs had been to see him. We started at 8.30 and were at Shibahm in four hours. We had eleven camels only, three horses, and the donkey. We travelled, as soon as we left Al Koton, through sand nearly all the way. We passed the tall white dome of Sheikh Aboubekr-bin-Hassan's tomb, near which the ruling family are buried if the seyyids permit. They are al

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CHAPTER XIII

CHAPTER XIII

Our departure from Al Koton on February 12 was almost as serious an affair as our start from Makalla. Sultan Salàh, with the instincts of true hospitality, not only refused to receive remuneration for our entertainment, but loaded us with presents of food for the way and fodder for our animals, intimating that 'bakshish' to some of his dependents would not be altogether unacceptable. With the object of receiving rewards for their services, the grand viziers, the mounshi (a scribe), the hall-port

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CHAPTER XIV

CHAPTER XIV

We never could ascertain whether the Tamimi had come or not, so on February 18, having given up all hope of joining them and changed ten camels, we set out, but not before nine o'clock. After Sa'ah the Wadi Adim becomes narrow, stony, and uninteresting, and our way lay for a good part along a stony river bed, gradually mounting, but almost imperceptibly. For several days we pursued the course of this valley, and had we known what would befall us as we approached the head of the Wadi Adim, I thin

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CHAPTER XV

CHAPTER XV

We reached Ghail Babwazir in three hours, at half-past five, passing through several oases. It is a large town. Some children, as I came round a corner, cried, 'Let us flee! here is a demon' ( afrit ). All the guns of our escort were fired, and we were ushered into a house, where there was a good-sized room with some matting. We were all very tired, hot and hungry, but alas for Arab hospitality! No coffee was brought, not even water, and when our servants asked for water and wood—'Show us first

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CHAPTER XVI

CHAPTER XVI

The journey was delightful, nearly all the way by the edge of the sea, past miles and miles of little mounds thrown up by the crabs in making their holes: daily they make them, and they are daily washed away by the tide. They live in holes higher up, but these are refuges for the day while they are scavenging in the sea. They were nearly under the feet of the horses. Near Sheher we passed the mouth of the Arfa river, where there is water, and near it are horribly smelling tanks where they make f

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CHAPTER XVII

CHAPTER XVII

Though we rose so early next morning that we dressed by candle-light, we were not up nearly so early as Imam Sharif, who, being sleepy and misled by a candle in our tent, aroused his followers and made them light their fire for breakfast at midnight. Kind old Don Quixote and many others walked with us a mile to Ras Dis, where we were to embark; this is the harbour of the town of Kosseir. Ras Dis is not near Dis, as Ras Bagashwa runs out between them. Probably before the interstices of the black

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CHAPTER XVIII

CHAPTER XVIII

After returning from our expedition to the Hadhramout in 1894 we determined the next winter to attempt the ambitious adventure of making a journey overland right across Southern Arabia from Maskat to Aden. On our way we hoped to revisit the Hadhramout, to explore those portions which we had been compelled to leave unvisited the former winter, and so to fill up the large blank space which still exists on the map of this country. Experience taught us that our plan was impracticable; the only possi

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CHAPTER XIX

CHAPTER XIX

We left Al Hafa on December 29, after waiting six days for camels. There was much difficulty in getting a sufficient quantity, and never before had camels been hired in this manner. It was hard to make the people understand what we meant or wished to do. When at length the camels were assembled, they arrived naked and bare. There were no ropes of any kind, or sticks to tie the baggage to, no vestige of any sort of pack saddle, and we had to wait till the following day before a few ropes could be

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CHAPTER XX

CHAPTER XX

At length we turned our faces towards the Gara mountains, with considerable interest and curiosity, and prepared to ascend them by a tortuous valley, the Wadi Ghersìd, which dives into their very midst, and forms the usual approach for camels, as the mountain sides in other parts are too precipitous. After riding up the valley for a few miles, we came across one of the small lakes of which we were in quest, nestling in a rocky hole, and with its fine boulders hung with ferns and vegetation, form

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CHAPTER XXI

CHAPTER XXI

We now pursued our way along the coast-line of Dhofar in an easterly direction. Wali Suleiman entertained us for a night at a farm he had built at a place called Rizat, the land around which is watered by an abundant stream. His garden was rich in many kinds of fruits, and on our arrival, hot and weary from the road, he spread a carpet for us under the shade of a mulberry tree while our camp was pitched, and ordered a slave to pick us a dishful of the fruit, which was exceedingly refreshing. Bes

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CHAPTER XXII

CHAPTER XXII

Our object had been to go across from Dhofar by land to the Hadhramout, across the Mahri country. Wali Suleiman had done all in his power to help us, but without much success, as the Gara were more or less at war with the Mahri, who are a dangerous warlike tribe. When we first left Al Hafa, a message had been sent to the Mahri chiefs to come and arrange about our journey, but on our return we found that only two had come. They said if we would give them 200 reals, i.e. about 12 l. , they would l

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CHAPTER XXIII

CHAPTER XXIII

In the winter of 1895, though we still wished to continue our investigations in Arabia, we found it impracticable, owing to the warlike state of the tribes there, so we decided to turn our attention to the other side of the Red Sea, and travel once more in Africa. Parts of Africa have to be discovered and other parts rediscovered. Each little war and each little journey contributes to the accomplishment of both these ends with surprising rapidity, but the geographical millennium is looming in th

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CHAPTER XXIV

CHAPTER XXIV

It is hard to imagine anything more squalid than the Egyptian fortress of Halaib, as it is spelt on the map, or Halei as it is pronounced, which was our next halting-place, and from which we succeeded in getting a little way inland. The governor, Ismael, has been there seven years; he and his family inhabit some wicker cages near the small white fort, and gathered round them are the huts of his soldiers and the cabins of a few Bisharin, who live under the immediate protection of the fort. Ismael

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CHAPTER XXV

CHAPTER XXV

When we returned to Halaib we encamped preparatory to going inland. Great doctoring had to be done over the hand of Ahmet Farraj, our clown. He had held a large hook overboard, with a bait, but no line, and a shark 7 feet long was caught and hauled on board. The shark bit the man's first finger badly. Various remedies were applied by the sailors in turns—tar, grease, earth, and other things—and it was in a very bad state when brought to us. It was quite cured eventually, but we were afraid of bl

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CHAPTER XXVI

CHAPTER XXVI

At Mohammed Gol, to which port our dhow next conducted us, our prospects of getting well into the interior were much brighter, and our ultimate results beyond comparison more satisfactory than they had been at Halaib. Mohammed Gol is distinctly a more lively place than Halaib, possessing more huts, more soldiers, and actually a miniature bazaar where, strange to relate, we were able to buy something we wanted. The houses at Mohammed Gol are larger than those at Halaib, and one can stand up in so

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CHAPTER XXVII

CHAPTER XXVII

Little did we dream when we left Mohammed Gol with our rather extensive caravan that behind that gigantic mountain, which though it only reaches an elevation of 7,500 feet, looks considerably higher from the sea as it rises almost directly out of the level plain, we were to find an ancient Egyptian gold-mine, the ruins in connection with which would offer us the first tangible comparison to the ruins which had exercised our minds so much in the gold-fields of South Africa. Some miles inland on t

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CHAPTER XXVIII

CHAPTER XXVIII

We left Wadi Gabeit next morning, and on the following day another messenger from Sawakin met us with a similar mandate; but as we were now journeying in a presumably safe direction we annexed him too, and went on our way rejoicing. Personally we felt that we knew the condition of the country better than the authorities of Sawakin, who had never been there. If our sheikhs had meant treachery they would long ago have put it into practice; our two Kourbab sheikhs, whose property is in and around M

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CHAPTER XXIX

CHAPTER XXIX

As we had been unable to penetrate into the Mahri country, though we had attempted it from three sides, we determined to visit the offshoot of the Mahri who dwell on the island of Sokotra. Cast away in the Indian Ocean, like a fragment rejected in the construction of Africa, very mountainous and fertile, yet practically harbourless, the island of Sokotra is, perhaps, as little known as any inhabited island on the globe. Most people have a glimpse of it on their way to India and Australia, but th

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CHAPTER XXX

CHAPTER XXX

After four days waiting for camels, and the usual wrangling over the price and casting lots for us, which here they do with stones instead of wood as in Arabia, we started late on Christmas Day, going of course only a short way. As all were mounted on the baggage we could trot all the way; the camels were not tied in strings. The first night we stopped at Isèleh, an interesting place at the entrance of Wadi Gàhai below Mount Lèhe Diftom, about two hours from Kalenzia, whence at night we could se

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CHAPTER XXXI

CHAPTER XXXI

Certainly Tamarida is a pretty place, with its river, its lagoon, and its palms, its whitewashed houses and whitewashed mosques, and with its fine view of the Haghier range immediately behind it. The mosques are new, and offer but little in the way of architectural beauty, for the fanatical Wahhabi from Nejd swept over the island in 1801, and in their religious zeal destroyed the places of worship; and the extensive cemeteries still bear testimony to the ravages of these iconoclasts, with their

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CHAPTER XXXII

CHAPTER XXXII

After leaving Tamarida we spent a night at a place the name of which has been variously spelt. We decided to spell it Dihelemnitin. It has otherwise been called Dishelenata, &amp;c. It is a lovely spot, at the confluence of two streams in a wood of palms, and we had a nice little flat field to camp in. When I say a field, I mean a wall-supported place once used as such. We saw very little cultivation except gardens at the villages, and the palm-trees were for the most part quite neglected. N

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CHAPTER XXXIII

CHAPTER XXXIII

After leaving our camp at Saihon we took a path in a south-westerly direction, and after a few days of somewhat monotonous travelling we came again into the deeper valleys and finer scenery of the central districts of the island. Through them we made our way in the direction of Mount Haghier. Sokotra without Mount Haghier would be like a body without a soul. The great mass of mountains which occupies the centre of the island rises in many jagged and stupendous peaks to the height of nearly 5,000

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CHAPTER XXXIV

CHAPTER XXXIV

After several days at Adahan we climbed down northward. Our journey was only three miles along a very narrow valley, but we made much more of it climbing after plants and shells. We stopped at the first little flat place that would hold our tents, a sort of small shelf more than knee-deep in that awful grass; and though we really enjoyed that camp for two days, pain was our portion all the time. The scenery was magnificent, and all the more striking that the mountains, having cast off their lich

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CHAPTER XXXV

CHAPTER XXXV

In the same year, 1897, soon after our return thither from Sokotra, we left Aden to explore the Yafei and Fadhli countries. Our preparations for this expedition were made under quite different and much happier circumstances from those which attended our last journey from Aden to the interior of Arabia, i.e. the Hadhramout. We received every help that could be given us by General Cuningham, Colonel Hayes-Sadler, Captain Wadeson, and, indeed, everyone from whom we asked assistance was most kind. W

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CHAPTER XXXVI

CHAPTER XXXVI

We were up and off before the sun rose, our party being increased by Sultan Salem, brother to the Fadhli sultan. He was twenty, and though not dark in colour, has woolly hair. He and the soldiers and the wazir, Abdullah bin Abdurrahman, rode at some distance to our left, between us and the dangerous Yafei towers. The Goddam or Kadam range, which separates the Wadi Yeramis from the Abyan, is a mass of arid peaks, none reaching to more than 2,000 feet. A road leads from Al Ma'a across the mountain

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CHAPTER XXXVII

CHAPTER XXXVII

We joined the camels on the way, and after two hours of stones ascended the very steep Akaba Beva. The view from the hills above—about 2,500 feet—is splendid, all the Yafei mountains and the Goddam range ending at Haide Naab, and giving place to the higher mountains of Rekab and Ghiuda. We descended, but not much, into the lovely Wadi Hadda, full of trees smothered with a kind of vine with thick glossy indiarubber-like leaves; then we went on straight up Akaba Hadda to the huge plain of Mis'hal,

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I

I

LIST OF PLANTS FROM DHOFAR MOUNTAINS, SOUTH-EAST ARABIA, COMMUNICATED BY J. THEODORE BENT, ESQ., TO KEW GARDENS, MAY 1895. A LIST OF THE LAND AND FRESHWATER SHELLS COLLECTED IN SOKOTRA BY MR. AND MRS. THEODORE BENT By Edgar A. Smith , F.Z.S., Assistant Keeper of Zoology, British Museum. Previous to the researches of Mr. and Mrs. Bent, only forty-eight land and freshwater molluscs had been recorded from Sokotra. In addition to twenty-three of these species, they were fortunate in obtaining eleven

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III

III

We bought in Aden a fragment of alabasteroid limestone, said to have come from the Hadhramout. It is broken on all sides. It is part of a perpendicular series of sunken square fields, on each of which is represented in flat relief a sitting or lying goat or chamois with enormous horns. My fragment has two complete goats and parts of another above as well as below. The goats look to the right, and there are some cuttings which may have been part of an inscription on the surface of the stone to th

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IV

IV

Letters Distinguishable of an almost obliterated inscription near Haidi village, near Kalenzia, Sokotra, copied by Theodore Bent Letters Distinguishable of an almost obliterated inscription near Haidi village, near Kalenzia, Sokotra, copied by Theodore Bent Crosses at Dihaiterere on the hill Ditrerre, a spur of Hamar, Sokotra. A perfect mass of crosses, the various shapes of which, on the rocks, were copied by Theodore Bent Crosses at Dihaiterere on the hill Ditrerre, a spur of Hamar, Sokotra. A

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V

V

SOKOTERI AND MAURI WORDS COLLECTED BY THEODORE BENT IN THE ISLAND OF SOKOTRA, HE ASKING THE QUESTIONS IN ARABIC The transliteration of the second, fourth, and fifth columns is according to the system of the Royal Geographical Society. [15] When they wish to warn the camel not to knock against anything in a narrow place they cry 'Berri! Berri!'...

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LIST OF SOME OF THE ARABIC AND OTHER WORDS EXPLAINED IN THE TEXT

LIST OF SOME OF THE ARABIC AND OTHER WORDS EXPLAINED IN THE TEXT

[A] These words are used by the Gara. IMPORTANT NEW WORK BY THE AUTHOR OF 'DEEDS THAT WON THE EMPIRE.' In 4 Volumes. Crown 8vo. With Portraits, Facsimiles, and Plans. 6 s. each....

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How England Saved Europe.

How England Saved Europe.

'England has saved herself by her exertions, and will, as I trust, save Europe by her example.'— Pitt's last public words. 'A people which takes no pride in the noble achievements of remote ancestors will never achieve anything worthy to be remembered with pride by remote descendants.' Macaulay. Author of ' Deeds that Won the Empire ,' ' Fights for the Flag ,' &amp;c. And the remaining volumes will be issued at intervals. In 2 Volumes. With Portraits and Sketches, including Portraits of Sir

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Recollections, 1832 to 1886.

Recollections, 1832 to 1886.

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The Life of William Shakespeare.

The Life of William Shakespeare.

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Southern Arabia.

Southern Arabia.

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Memoirs of a Revolutionist.

Memoirs of a Revolutionist.

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The Log of a Sea Waif:

The Log of a Sea Waif:

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Health Abroad:

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Assistant Physician to the Sussex County Hospital. With Special Chapters on EGYPT and NORTH AFRICA , by Dr. Leigh Canney ; CENTRAL AFRICA , by Dr. Harford Battersby ; CONTINENTAL TRAVEL , by Dr. Stuart Tidey and the Editor ; SOUTH AFRICA , by Dr. B. J. Guillemard ; SOUTH AMERICA , by Dr. G. H. Pennell ; INDIA , by Dr. W. J. Simpson ; and AUSTRALIA , NEW ZEALAND , and NORTH AMERICA , by the Editor . Demy 8vo. With 2 Portraits and 2 Maps....

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THE STORY OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY.

THE STORY OF THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY.

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The Great Company, 1667-1871.

The Great Company, 1667-1871.

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The Life of Charles Sturt,

The Life of Charles Sturt,

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The Life of Madame de Longueville

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The Backwater of Life;

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Collections and Recollections.

Collections and Recollections.

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Poetical Works of Robert Bridges.

Poetical Works of Robert Bridges.

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NEW WORK BY THE AUTHOR OF 'POT-POURRI FROM A SURREY GARDEN.'

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More Pot-pourri from a Surrey Garden.

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The Scarlet Herring, and other Stories.

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The History of the Jewish People.

The History of the Jewish People.

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