A NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN EGYPT, WITH A SOJOURN AMONG THE ARTISTS IN ROME. By SAMUEL BEVAN. LONDON: CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT. MDCCCXLIX. MDCCCXLIX....

The matter contained in the following pages has been gathered from a diary, in which the incidents of each successive day had been regularly noted down, not with any intention of subsequently submitting them to the public, but from a belief that the practice, if not actually instructive, is at least sure to repay the little trouble it occasions. As the writer had not been attracted either to Egypt or Italy, by any of the usual inducements which influence the generality of travellers, but had bee

THE AUTHOR MEETS WITH AN ADVERTISEMENT IN “THE TIMES”—FINDS AN UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG—UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMINATION—RECEIVES HIS CREDENTIALS—MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS SET RIGHT BY A FRIEND—EATS A FAREWELL DINNER AT BLACKWALL—AND FINALLY EMBARKS IN A NEW LINE OF BUSINESS. On a sunny morning in the spring of 184—, I sat lingering over the remains of a late breakfast, at my lodgings in Regent Street. My deed of partnership with Messrs. —— having been cancelled but a few days before, I found my

DISCOMFORTS OF THE CHANNEL—AN UNPLEASANT DISCOVERY—HORRORS OF THE ROTONDE—A TRAVELLER’S TOILETTE—CHALONS SUR SOANE—LYONS—A TRANSPLANTED ENGINEER—THE RHONE—ARLES—THE MEDITERRANEAN—MARSEILLES. My friend and I embarked at Southampton about nightfall, in the “Robert Burns,” but had scarcely been an hour under weigh, before the breakage of a piston-key occurred, of which the necessary repair caused considerable delay. A fresh breeze too springing up, introduced us to all the horrors of a Channel trip

THE “MINOS”—ENGLISH AND FRENCH APPETITES—LEGHORN—TOWTING JEWS—CIVITA VECCHIA—NAPLES—FORMALITIES OF LANDING—MALTA—MR. PORTENIER—THE “LYCURGE”—SYRA. I quitted Marseilles in the “Minos” steamer on the evening of June 21st, in company with some twenty fellow-passengers, bound to various parts of the Mediterranean. Amongst them was the venerable Bishop of Antioch, with a numerous suite of attendant priests, and a sprinkling of my own countrypeople; but I soon discovered that I was the only passenger

THE CAFE—ARAB MUSIC—ARTFUL EXPEDIENT—THE GHAWAZEE AND KOWAL—CHANGE OF COSTUME—THE LADY FROM BEYROUT—ODD PROCESSION—SHOWERS OF ROSE WATER—ARRIVAL OF THE “TAGUS”—THE OVERLAND MAIL—DEPARTURE OF THE INDIA-BOUND PASSENGERS—THE MAHMOUDIEH—ATFEH. Alexandria offers to the English stranger very little in the shape of amusement; at six, when the offices and shops are closed, the square becomes the public promenade, serving in fact as the “ change ,” where business-matters and the news of the day are discu

THE NILE BOAT—VOYAGE DOWN THE RIVER—DEFENSIVE PREPARATIONS—SUDDEN SQUALL—NARROW ESCAPE—ALEXANDRIA—RIVAL HOTELS—LESSONS IN DONKEYSHIP—DOMESTIC COOKERY—THE “GREAT LIVERPOOL”—PHYSIOLOGY OF THE SEIS. At the end of the month I accompanied Mr. Raven to Alexandria in one of his Nile sailing-boats, which are light and commodious little vessels, drawing but two or three feet of water, and especially adapted for the voyage into upper Egypt, to which purpose indeed they are principally applied. Having sunk

DWARKANAUTH TAGORE—STORM IN THE MAHMOUDIEH—A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS—THE HALF-DROWNED CADET—ARAB KNAVERY—EFFECTS OF THE MURRAIN—DONKEY-CHAIRS—A MIDNIGHT GALLOP—ALTERATION IN PROSPECT—MY VAN AND ITS OCCUPANTS—AN ENRAGED PORTUGUESE—DISAGREEABLE SITUATION—CHRISTMAS-EVE—MIDNIGHT INTERRUPTION—GOOSE AND CHAMPAGNE. As it is not my intention to weary the reader with a description of each of my several journeyings across the Isthmus, I shall allude only to two more at the close of the year 184-, when my eng

THE “MINOS” AGAIN—CAFE FRANCAIS—THE ENFIELD STAGE—DEPARTURE FROM EGYPT—CHANGE OF BOATS AT SYRA—A GALE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN—MALTA—THE QUARANTINE HARBOUR—FORT MANUEL—INQUISITIVE GUARDIANO—TRAVELLERS’ COLLECTIONS—SANITARY REGULATIONS AND LOW DIET—THE PARLATORI—RESOURCES IN QUARANTINE—HAPPY RELEASE. On inquiring of my friend Furner, at the office, I found that the “Minos” French steamer was to start on the 7th, and that I had only one clear day to make my final arrangements for quitting Egypt. The p

CHOICE OF A ROUTE—THE “ERCOLANO”—SYRACUSE—THE ALBERGO DEL SOLE—SICILIAN COBBLER—THE EAR OF DIONYSIUS—BEAUTIFUL GARDENS—MUSEUM—MESSINA—ANCIENT FRESCO—TROPEA—STROMBOLI—NAPLES—“HOTEL DE NEW YORK”—HERCULANEUM—POMPEII—STREETS—SHOPS—PRIVATE HOUSES—PROGRESS OF EXCAVATION. During my imprisonment in the Lazaretto, I had employed some of my leisure time in selecting the most agreeable route homewards, for towards England I had pretty much determined to go. My desire to revisit Italy increased in proportio

THE CAMPO SANTO—CHURCHES—THE MISERERE—CURIOUS SCULPTURE—AGNANO—GROTTO DEL CANE—FROGS—POZZUOLO—CAVE OF THE SYBIL—HOT SPRINGS—BOILED EGGS—HOT SAND—NO END OF PHENOMENA—BAIÆ—VESUVIUS—RESINA—THE HERMITAGE—FATIGUING ASCENT—THE CRATER—COMING DOWN WITH A RUN—THE “MONGIBELLO”—CIVITA VECCHIA—ROME. I devoted the remaining three or four days of my stay at Naples to a round of sight-seeing, resigning myself with this purpose into the hands of my cicerone of the “New York.” I made frequent visits to the Campo

THE DUCAL PALACE—BRIDGE OF SIGHS—THE POZZI—CAMPANILE—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—SWIFTS—THE PIGEONS OF ST. MARKS—DEPARTURE FROM VENICE—THE ANCONA STEAMER—THE ADRIATIC—VICISSITUDES OF A SEA-VOYAGE—THE UNFORTUNATE FRIAR—POLA—ITS ANTIQUITIES—THE HOTEL—ANCONA—THE CUSTOM-HOUSE—DISAPPOINTMENT—A VILLAGE IN THE APPENINES—FULIGNO—ASSISI—THE BOARDING-HOUSE—SAN FRANCESCO—MUSICAL SHOEMAKERS—SPOLETO—MY COUNTRYWOMAN—TERNI—ROME. I shall not describe the Ducal Palace with its pozzi and piombi , its magnificent stairca

TIVOLI—COUNTRY EXCURSIONS—CICILIANO—HOSPITALITY OF THE MOUNTAINEERS—THE PORTA SAN LORENZO—VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR—ANOTHER START NORTHWARD—FLORENCE—THE UFFIZII—S——, AND HIS HEAD OF VELASQUEZ—THE FLOOD OF THE ARNO—MR. M.—LORD D.—UNEXPECTED SUMMONS—PISA—LEGHORN—GENOA—THE “DILIGENCE”—ALESSANDRIA—TURIN—THE RAILWAY DEPUTATION—EXPEDITION TO THE MONT CENIS—SUSA—BARDONECHE—MY FRIEND B.’S MOUNTAIN RAMBLE—SUCCESSFUL “JODELN”—THE VALLEY OF THE DORA SUSA—DEPARTURE FROM TURIN—CONCLUSION. The “Holy Week” and its