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KOREA And Her Neighbors
KOREA And Her Neighbors
A Narrative of Travel, with an Account of the Recent Vicissitudes and Present Position of the Country By Isabella Bird Bishop, F.R.G.S. Author of “Unbeaten Tracks in Japan,” etc. With a Preface by Sir Walter C. Hillier, K.C.M.G. Late British Consul-General for Korea With Illustrations from Photographs by the Author, and Maps, Appendixes and Index New York Chicago Toronto Fleming H. Revell Company M DCCC XCVIII New York Chicago Toronto Fleming H. Revell Company M DCCC XCVIII Copyr
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Preface.
Preface.
I have been honored by Mrs. Bishop with an invitation to preface her book on Korea with a few introductory remarks. Mrs. Bishop is too well-known as a traveler and a writer to require any introduction to the reading public, but I am glad to be afforded an opportunity of indorsing the conclusions she has arrived at after a long and intimate study of a people whose isolation during many centuries renders a description of their character, institutions and peculiarities, especially interesting at th
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Author’s Prefatory Note.
Author’s Prefatory Note.
My four visits to Korea, between January, 1894, and March, 1897, formed part of a plan of study of the leading characteristics of the Mongolian races. My first journey produced the impression that Korea is the most uninteresting country I ever traveled in, but during and since the war its political perturbations, rapid changes, and possible destinies, have given me an intense interest in it; while Korean character and industry, as I saw both under Russian rule in Siberia, have enlightened me as
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INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER
In the winter of 1894, when I was about to sail for Korea (to which some people erroneously give the name of “The Korea”), many interested friends hazarded guesses at its position,—the Equator, the Mediterranean, and the Black Sea being among them, a hazy notion that it is in the Greek Archipelago cropping up frequently. It was curious that not one of these educated, and, in some cases, intelligent people came within 2,000 miles of its actual latitude and longitude! In truth, there is something
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CHAPTER I FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA
CHAPTER I FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KOREA
It is but fifteen hours’ steaming from the harbor of Nagasaki to Fusan in Southern Korea. The Island of Tsushima, where the Higo Maru calls, was, however, my last glimpse of Japan; and its reddening maples and blossoming plums, its temple-crowned heights, its stately flights of stone stairs leading to Shinto shrines in the woods, the blue-green masses of its pines, and the golden plumage of its bamboos, emphasized the effect produced by the brown, bare hills of Fusan, pleasant enough in summer,
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CHAPTER II FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CAPITAL
CHAPTER II FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF THE CAPITAL
Chemulpo , being on the island-studded estuary of the Han, which is navigable for the 56 miles up to Ma-pu, the river port of Seoul, it eventually occurred to some persons more enterprising than their neighbors to establish steam communication between the two. Manifold are the disasters which have attended this simple undertaking. Nearly every passenger who has entrusted himself to the river has a tale to tell of the boat being deposited on a sandbank, and of futile endeavors to get off, of fret
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CHAPTER III THE KUR-DONG
CHAPTER III THE KUR-DONG
Before leaving England letters from Korea had warned me of the difficulty of travelling in the interior, of getting a trustworthy servant, and above all, a trustworthy interpreter. Weeks passed by, and though Bishop Corfe and others exerted themselves on my behalf, these essential requisites were not forthcoming, for to find a reliable English-speaking Korean is well-nigh impossible. There are English-speaking Koreans who have learned English, some in the Government School, and others in the Met
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CHAPTER IV SEOUL, THE KOREAN MECCA
CHAPTER IV SEOUL, THE KOREAN MECCA
Further difficulties and delays, while they pushed my journey into the interior into the hot weather, gave me the advantage of learning a little about the people and the country before starting. In one sense Seoul is Korea. Take a mean alley in it with its mud-walled hovels, deep-eaved brown roofs, and malodorous ditches with their foulness and green slime, and it may serve as an example of the street of every village and provincial town. In country places there are few industrial specialties. A
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CHAPTER V THE SAILING OF THE SAMPAN
CHAPTER V THE SAILING OF THE SAMPAN
At a point when the difficulties in the way of my projected journey had come to be regarded as insurmountable, owing to the impossibility of getting an interpreter, and I had begun to say “ if I go” instead of “ when I go,” Mr. Miller, a young missionary, offered his services, on condition that he might take his servant to supplement his imperfect knowledge of Korean. Bishop Corfe provided me with a Chinese servant, Wong, a fine, big, cheery fellow, with inexhaustible good-nature and contentment
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CHAPTER VI ON THE RIVER OF GOLDEN SAND
CHAPTER VI ON THE RIVER OF GOLDEN SAND
During the five weeks which I spent on the Han, though the routine of daily life varied little, there was no monotony. The country and the people were new, and we mixed freely, almost too freely, with the latter; the scenery varied hourly, and after the first few days became not only beautiful, but in places magnificent, and full of surprises; the spring was in its early beauty, and the trees in their first vividness of green, red, and gold; the flowers and flowering shrubs were in their glory,
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CHAPTER VII VIEWS AFLOAT
CHAPTER VII VIEWS AFLOAT
A few hours sufficed for settling in our very narrow quarters, and by the end of the second day we had shaken down into an orderly routine. By dint of much driving Kim was induced to start about seven, at which hour I had my flour and water stirabout. The halts for smoking, cooking, and eating were many, and about five o’clock he used to simulate exhaustion, a deception to which his lean form and thin face with its straight straggling white hair lent themselves effectively. Then followed the dai
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CHAPTER VIII NATURAL BEAUTY—THE RAPIDS
CHAPTER VIII NATURAL BEAUTY—THE RAPIDS
In superb weather, and in the full glory of spring, we continued the exploration of the Han above Tan-Yang, encountering innumerable rapids, some of them very severe and horrible to look upon. The river valley, continually narrowing into gorges, rarely admits of hamlets, and the population is relegated to lateral and parallel valleys. On the 30th of April we tugged and poled the boat up seven long and severe rapids, with deep still stretches of water between them. The flora increased in variety,
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CHAPTER IX KOREAN MARRIAGE CUSTOMS
CHAPTER IX KOREAN MARRIAGE CUSTOMS
Paik-kui Mi was not without a certain degree of life on that Sunday. A yang-ban’s steward impressed boats for the gratuitous carriage of tiles to Seoul, which caused a little feeble excitement among the junkmen. There was a sick person, and a mu-tang or female exorcist was engaged during the whole day in the attempt to expel the malevolent dæmon which was afflicting him, the process being accompanied by the constant beating of a drum and the loud vibrating sound of large cymbals. Lastly, there w
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CHAPTER X THE KOREAN PONY—KOREAN ROADS AND INNS
CHAPTER X THE KOREAN PONY—KOREAN ROADS AND INNS
A gray and murky morning darkening into drizzle, which thickened into a day’s pouring rain, was an inauspicious beginning of a long land journey, but the crawling up the north Han had become monotonous and change and action were desirable. Being an experienced muleteer, I had arranged the loads for each pony so equitably as to obviate the usual quarrel among the mapu or grooms at starting! The men were not regular mapu , and were going chiefly to see the Diamond Mountain. One was well educated a
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CHAPTER XI DIAMOND MOUNTAIN MONASTERIES
CHAPTER XI DIAMOND MOUNTAIN MONASTERIES
It was a glorious day for the Pass of Tan-pa-Ryöng (1,320 feet above Ma-ri Kei), the western barrier of the Keum-Kang San region. Mr. Campbell, of H.B.M. ’s Consular Service, one of the few Europeans who has crossed it, in his charming narrative mentions that it is impassable for laden animals, and engaged porters for the ascent, but though the track is nothing better than a torrent bed abounding in great boulders, angular and shelving rocks, and slippery corrugations of entangled tree roots, I
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CHAPTER XII ALONG THE COAST
CHAPTER XII ALONG THE COAST
On leaving Chang-an Sa for Wön-san we retraced our route as far as Kal-rön-gi, and afterwards crossed the Mak-pai Pass, from which there is a grand view of the Keum-Kang San. Much of a somewhat tedious day was spent in crossing a rolling elevated plateau bordered by high denuded hills, on which the potatoe flourishes at a height of 2,500 feet. The soil is very fertile, but not being suited to rice, is very little occupied. Crossing the Sai-kal-chai, 2,200 feet in altitude, the infamous road desc
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CHAPTER XIII IMPENDING WAR—EXCITEMENT AT CHEMULPO
CHAPTER XIII IMPENDING WAR—EXCITEMENT AT CHEMULPO
Having heard nothing at all of public events during my long inland journey, and only a few rumors of unlocalized collisions between the Tong-haks (rebels) and the Royal troops, the atmosphere of canards at Wön-san was somewhat stimulating, though I had already been long enough in Korea not to attach much importance to the stories with which the air was thick. One day it was said that the Tong-haks had gained great successes and had taken Gatling guns from the Royal army, another that they had be
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CHAPTER XIV DEPORTED TO MANCHURIA
CHAPTER XIV DEPORTED TO MANCHURIA
Though I landed at Chefoo in heavy tweed clothing, I was obliged to walk up the steep hill to the British Consulate, though the mercury was 84° in the shade, because I had no money with which to pay for a jinriksha ! My reflections were anything but pleasant. My passport and letters of introduction, both private and official, were in Seoul, my travelling dress was distinctly shabby, and I feared that an impecunious person without introductions, and unable to prove her identity, might meet with a
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CHAPTER XV A MANCHURIAN DELUGE—A PASSENGER CART—AN ACCIDENT
CHAPTER XV A MANCHURIAN DELUGE—A PASSENGER CART—AN ACCIDENT
It surprised me much to find that only one foreign resident had visited Mukden, which is only 120 miles distant by a road which is traversable in winter, and is accessible by river during the summer and autumn in from eight to ten days. I left Newchwang on the 3rd of July, and though various circumstances were unpropitious, reached Mukden in eight days, being able to avoid many of the windings of the Liau by sailing over an inundation. The kindly foreign community lent me necessaries for the jou
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CHAPTER XVI MUKDEN AND ITS MISSIONS
CHAPTER XVI MUKDEN AND ITS MISSIONS
Mukden stands at an altitude of 160 feet above the sea, in Lat. 41° 51´ N. and Long. 123° 37´ E., in the centre of an immense alluvial plain, bearing superb crops and liberally sprinkled with farming villages embowered in wood, a wavy line of low blue hills at a great distance limiting the horizon. It is 3 miles from the Hun-ho, a tributary of the Liau, and within its outer wall idles along the silvery Siao-ho or “small river,” with a long Bund affording a delightful promenade and an airy positi
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CHAPTER XVII CHINESE TROOPS ON THE MARCH
CHAPTER XVII CHINESE TROOPS ON THE MARCH
The weeks which I spent in Mukden were full of rumors and excitement. A few words on the origin of the war with Japan may make the situation intelligible. The Tong-haks, as was mentioned in chapter xiii., had on several occasions defeated the Royal Korean troops, and after much hesitation the Korean King invoked the help of China. China replied promptly by giving Japan notice of her intention to send troops to Korea on 7th June, 1894, both countries, under the treaty of Tientsin, having equal ri
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CHAPTER XVIII NAGASAKI—WLADIVOSTOK
CHAPTER XVIII NAGASAKI—WLADIVOSTOK
After the collapse of the rumor regarding the landing of the Japanese in force on the shores of the Gulf of Pechili, which obtained credence for nearly a fortnight in the Far East, fluttered every Cabinet in Europe, forced even so cool and well-informed a man as Sir Robert Hart into hasty action, and produced a hurried exodus of Europeans from Peking and a scare generally among the foreign residents in North China, I returned from Peking to Chefoo to await the course of events. The war, its requ
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CHAPTER XIX KOREAN SETTLERS IN SIBERIA
CHAPTER XIX KOREAN SETTLERS IN SIBERIA
The chief object of my visit to Russian Manchuria was to settle for myself by personal investigation the vexed question of the condition of those Koreans who have found shelter under the Russian flag, a number estimated in Seoul at 20,000. It was there persistently said that Russia was banishing them in large numbers, and that several thousands of them had already recrossed the Tu-men, and were in such poverty that the King of Korea had sent agents to the north who were to settle them on lands i
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CHAPTER XX THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD
CHAPTER XX THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILROAD
After returning to Wladivostok, accompanied by a young Danish gentleman who was kindly lent to me by Messrs. Kuntz and Albers, and who spoke English and Russian, I spent a week on the Ussuri Railway, the eastern section of the Trans-Siberian Railway, going as far as the hamlet of Ussuri on the Ussuri River at the great Ussuri Bridge, beyond which the line, though completed for 50 versts , was not open for traffic. Indeed, up to that point from Nikolskoye trains were run twice daily rather to “se
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CHAPTER XXI THE KING’S OATH—AN AUDIENCE
CHAPTER XXI THE KING’S OATH—AN AUDIENCE
Leaving Wladivostok by the last Japanese steamer of the season, I spent two days at Wön-san, little changed, except that its background of mountains was snow-covered, that the Koreans were enriched by the extravagant sums paid for labor by the Japanese during the war, that business was active, and that Japanese sentries in wooden sentry-boxes guarded the peaceful streets. Twelve thousand Japanese troops had passed through Wön-san on their way to Phyöng-yang. At Fusan, my next point, there were 2
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CHAPTER XXII A TRANSITION STAGE
CHAPTER XXII A TRANSITION STAGE
During January, 1895, Seoul was in a curious condition. The “old order” was changing, but the new had not taken its place. The Japanese, victorious by land and sea, were in a position to enforce the reforms in which before the war they had asked China to coöperate. The King, since the capture of the Palace by the Japanese in July, 1894, had become little more than a “salaried automaton,” and the once powerful members of the Min clan had been expelled from their offices. The Japanese were prepare
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CHAPTER XXIII THE ASSASSINATION OF THE QUEEN
CHAPTER XXIII THE ASSASSINATION OF THE QUEEN
In May, 1895, a treaty of peace between China and Japan was signed at Shimonoseki, a heavy indemnity, the island of Formosa, and a great accession of prestige, being the gains of Japan. From thenceforward no power having interests in the Far East could afford to regard her as a quantité négligéable . After travelling for some months in South and Mid China, and spending the summer in Japan, I arrived in Nagasaki in October, 1895, to hear a rumor of the assassination of the Korean Queen, afterward
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CHAPTER XXIV BURIAL CUSTOMS
CHAPTER XXIV BURIAL CUSTOMS
After the interpreter difficulty had appeared as before insurmountable, I was provided with one who acquitted himself to perfection, and through whose good offices I came much nearer to the people than if I had been accompanied by a foreigner. He spoke English remarkably well, was always bright, courteous, intelligent, and good-natured; he had a keen sense of the ludicrous, and I owe much of the pleasure, as well as the interest, of my journey to his companionship. Mr. Hillier equipped me with I
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CHAPTER XXV SONG-DO: A ROYAL CITY
CHAPTER XXV SONG-DO: A ROYAL CITY
It grew dark before we reached Pa Ju, and the mapu were in great terror of tigers and robbers. It is unpleasant to reach a Korean inn after nightfall, for there are no lights by which to unload the baggage, and noise and confusion prevail. When the traveller arrives a man rushes in with a brush, stirs up the dust and vermin, and sometimes puts down a coarse mat. Experience has taught me that an oiled sheet is a better protection against vermin than a pony-load of insect powder. I made much use o
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CHAPTER XXVI THE PHYÖNG-YANG BATTLEFIELD
CHAPTER XXVI THE PHYÖNG-YANG BATTLEFIELD
Glorious weather favored my departure from the ancient Korean capital. The day’s journey lay through pretty country, small valleys, and picturesquely shaped hills, on which the vegetation, whatever it was, had turned to a purple as rich as the English heather blossom, while the blue gloom of the pines emphasized the flaming reds of the dying leafage. The villages were few and small, and cultivation was altogether confined to the valleys. Pheasants were so abundant that the mapu pelted them out o
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CHAPTER XXVII NORTHWARD HO!
CHAPTER XXVII NORTHWARD HO!
For the northern journey simple preparations only were needed, consisting of the purchase of candles and two blankets for Im, in having two pheasants cooked, in dispensing with one pony, leaving us the moderate allowance of two baggage animals, and in depositing most of my money with Mr. Moffett. For there were rumors of robbers on the road, and Mr. Yi left his fine clothes and elegant travelling gear also behind. On a brilliant morning (and when are Korean mornings not brilliant?), passing thro
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CHAPTER XXVIII OVER THE AN-KIL YUNG PASS
CHAPTER XXVIII OVER THE AN-KIL YUNG PASS
Finding the Tai-döng totally impracticable, and being limited as to time by the approach of the closing of the river below Phyöng-yang by ice, I regretfully turned southwards, and journeyed Seoul-wards by another route, of much interest, which touches here and there the right bank of the Tai-döng. As I sat amidst the dirt, squalor, rubbish, and odd and endism of the inn yard before starting, surrounded by an apathetic, dirty, vacant-looking, open-mouthed crowd steeped in poverty, I felt Korea to
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CHAPTER XXIX SOCIAL POSITION OF WOMEN
CHAPTER XXIX SOCIAL POSITION OF WOMEN
Mou-chin Tai is a beautifully situated village, and has something of a look of comfort. Up to that point small boats can come up at all seasons, but there is almost no trade. The Tai-döng expands into a broad sheet of water, on which the hills descend abruptly. There is a ferry, and we drove our ponies into the ferryboat and yelled for the ferryman. After a time he appeared on the top of the bank, but absolutely declined to take us over “for any money.” He would have “nothing so do with a foreig
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CHAPTER XXX EXORCISTS AND DANCING WOMEN
CHAPTER XXX EXORCISTS AND DANCING WOMEN
At Cha-san, a magistracy, we rejoined the road from which we had diverged on the northward journey. It is a quiet, decayed place, though in a good agricultural country. As I had been there before, the edge of curiosity was blunted, and there was no mobbing. The people gave a distressing account of their sufferings from the Chinese soldiers, who robbed them unscrupulously, took what they wanted without paying, and maltreated the women. The Koreans deserted, through fright, the adjacent ferry vill
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CHAPTER XXXI THE HAIR-CROPPING EDICT
CHAPTER XXXI THE HAIR-CROPPING EDICT
The year 1896 opened for Korea in a gloom as profound as that in which the previous year had closed. There were small insurrections in all quarters, various officials were killed, and some of the rebels threatened to march on the capital. Japanese influence declined, Japanese troops were gradually withdrawn from the posts they had occupied, the engagements of many of the Japanese advisers and controllers in departments expired and were not renewed, some of the reforms instituted by Japan during
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CHAPTER XXXII THE REORGANIZED KOREAN GOVERNMENT[43]
CHAPTER XXXII THE REORGANIZED KOREAN GOVERNMENT[43]
The old system of Government in Korea, which, with but a few alterations and additions, prevailed from the founding of the present dynasty until the second half of 1894, was modelled on that of the Ming Emperors of China. The King was absolute as well in practice as in theory, but to assist him in governing there was a Eui-chyeng Pu , commonly translated Cabinet, composed of a so-called Premier, and Senior and Junior Ministers of State, under whom were Senior and Junior Chief Secretaries, and Se
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CHAPTER XXXIII EDUCATION AND FOREIGN TRADE
CHAPTER XXXIII EDUCATION AND FOREIGN TRADE
Korean education has hitherto failed to produce patriots, thinkers, or honest men. It has been conducted thus. In an ordinary Korean school the pupils, seated on the floor with their Chinese books in front of them, the upper parts of their bodies swaying violently from side to side or backwards and forwards, from daylight till sunset, vociferate at the highest and loudest pitch of their voices their assigned lessons from the Chinese classics, committing them to memory or reciting them aloud, wri
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CHAPTER XXXIV DÆMONISM OR SHAMANISM
CHAPTER XXXIV DÆMONISM OR SHAMANISM
Korean cities without priests or temples; houses without “god shelves”; village festivals without a mikoshi or idols carried in festive procession; marriage and burial without priestly blessing; an absence of religious ceremonials and sacred books to which real or assumed reverence is paid, and nothing to show that religion has any hold on the popular mind, constitute a singular Korean characteristic. Putting aside Buddhism with its gross superstitions, practised chiefly in remote places, and th
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CHAPTER XXXV NOTES ON DÆMONISM CONCLUDED
CHAPTER XXXV NOTES ON DÆMONISM CONCLUDED
The second and larger division of the Shamans consists of the mu-tang . Though the Pak-su Mu , who are included among the mu-tang , are men, the female idea prevails so largely that these wear female clothing in performing their functions, and the whole class has the name of mu-tang , and is spoken of as female. The mu-tang is universally prevalent, and her services are constantly and everywhere sought. She enters upon an office regarded as of high importance with very little ceremonial, requiri
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CHAPTER XXXVI SEOUL IN 1897[59]
CHAPTER XXXVI SEOUL IN 1897[59]
It was midnight when, by the glory of an October full moon, I arrived from Chemulpo at the foot of the rugged slope crowned with the irregular, lofty, battlemented city wall and picturesque double-roofed gateway of the Gate of Staunch Loyalty which make the western entrance to the Korean capital so unique and attractive. An arrangement had been made for the opening of the gate, and after a long parley between the faithful Im and the guard, the heavy iron-bolted door creaked back before the unite
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CHAPTER XXXVII LAST WORDS ON KOREA
CHAPTER XXXVII LAST WORDS ON KOREA
The patient reader has now learned with me something of Korean history during the last three years, as well as of the reorganized methods of Government, and the education, trade, and finance of the country. He has also by proxy travelled in the interior, and has lived among the peasant farmers, seeing their industries, the huckstering which passes for trade, something of their domestic life and habits, and the superstitions by which they are enslaved, and has acquired some knowledge of the offic
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APPENDIX A. MISSION STATISTICS FOR KOREA, 1896.
APPENDIX A. MISSION STATISTICS FOR KOREA, 1896.
KEY: FOOTNOTES: [63] Besides much in labor and in contributions for support of native evangelists, schools, and the enlargement and construction of Church edifices....
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APPENDIX B Direct Foreign Trade of Korea, 1886-96
APPENDIX B Direct Foreign Trade of Korea, 1886-96
( i.e. net value of foreign goods imported in foreign, or foreign-type, vessels into the Treaty Ports, and taken cognizance of by the foreign Customs; and of native goods similarly exported and re-exported from the Treaty Ports to foreign countries.) Note. —The increase in the foreign trade of Korea between 1886 and 1896 may not have been so great as the above figures without explanation would imply. It is generally stated that side by side with the trade in foreign vessels at the Treaty Ports a
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APPENDIX C Return of Principal Articles of Export (net) to Foreign Countries for the Years 1896-95
APPENDIX C Return of Principal Articles of Export (net) to Foreign Countries for the Years 1896-95
Return of Principal Articles of Foreign Import (net: i.e. excluding Re-exports) to Open Ports of Korea during the Years 1896-95. Return of all Shipping Vessels Entered at the Open Ports of Korea during the Year 1896. FOOTNOTES: [67] 1 dollar = 2s. 2d....
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APPENDIX D
APPENDIX D
The population of the three Korean treaty ports was as follows in January, 1897:—...
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APPENDIX E
APPENDIX E
Treaty between Japan and Russia with Reply of H.E. the Korean Minister for Foreign Affairs MEMORANDUM The Representatives of Russia and Japan at Seoul, having conferred under the identical instructions from their respective Governments, have arrived at the following conclusions:— While leaving the matter of His Majesty’s, the King of Korea, return to the Palace entirely to his own discretion and judgment, the Representatives of Russia and Japan will friendly advise His Majesty to return to that
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