The Englishwoman In America - free ebook by Isabella L. (Isabella Lucy) Bird

CHAPTER I.

Prefatory and explanatory—The voyage out—The sentimental—The actual —The oblivious—The medley—Practical joking—An unwelcome companion— American patriotism—The first view—The departure....

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CHAPTER II.

An inhospitable reception—Halifax and the Blue Noses—The heat— Disappointed expectations—The great departed—What the Blue Noses might be—What the coach was not—Nova Scotia and its capabilities—The roads and their annoyances—A tea dinner—A night journey and a Highland cabin —A nautical catastrophe—A joyful reunion....

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CHAPTER III.

Popular ignorance—The garden island—Summer and winter contrasted—A wooden capital—Island politics, and their consequences—Gossip—"Blowin- time"—Religion and the clergy—The servant nuisance—Colonial society—An evening party—An island premier—Agrarian outrage—A visit to the Indians—The pipe of peace—An Indian coquette—Country hospitality—A missionary—A novel mode of lobster-fishing—Uncivilised life—Far away in the woods—Starvation and dishonesty—An old Highlander and a Highland welcome—Hopes for t

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CHAPTER IV.

From St. George's Cross to the Stars and Stripes—Unpunctuality— Incompetence—A wretched night—Colonial curiosity—The fashions—A night in a buffalo robe—A stage journey—A queer character—Politics— Chemistry—Mathematics—Rotten bridges—A midnight arrival—Colonial ignorance—Yankee conceit—What ten-horse power chaps can do—The pestilence—The city on the rock—New Brunswick—Steamboat peculiarities —Going ahead in the eating line—A storm—Stepping ashore....

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CHAPTER V.

First experiences of American freedom—The "striped pig" and "Dusty Ben" —A country mouse—What the cars are like—Beauties of New England—The land of apples—A Mammoth hotel—The rusty inkstand exiled—Eloquent eyes —Alone in a crowd....

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CHAPTER VI.

A suspected bill—A friend in need—All aboard for the Western cars— The wings of the wind—American politeness—A loquacious conductor— Three minutes for refreshments—A conversation on politics—A confession—The emigrant car—Beauties of the woods—A forest on fire— Dangers of the cars—The Queen City of the West....

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CHAPTER VII.

The Queen City continued—Its beauties—Its inhabitants, human and equine—An American church—Where chairs and bedsteads come from—Pigs and pork—A peep into Kentucky—Popular opinions respecting slavery— The curse of America....

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CHAPTER VIII.

The hickory stick—Chawing up ruins—A forest scene—A curious questioner —Hard and soft shells—Dangers of a ferry—The western prairies— Nocturnal detention—The Wild West and the Father of Rivers—Breakfast in a shed—What is an alligator?—Physiognomy, and its uses—The ladies' parlour—A Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrors—A water-drinking people—The Prairie City—Progress of the West....

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CHAPTER IX.

A vexatious incident—John Bull enraged—Woman's rights—Alligators become hosses—A popular host—Military display—A mirth-provoking gun —Grave reminiscences—Attractions of the fair—Past and present—A floating palace—Black companions—A black baby—Externals of Buffalo— The flag of England....

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CHAPTER X.

The Place of Council—Its progress and its people—English hearts— "Sebastopol is taken"—Squibs and crackers—A ship on her beam-ends— Selfishness—A mongrel city—A Scot—Constancy rewarded—Monetary difficulties—Detention on a bridge—A Canadian homestead—Life in the clearings—The bush on fire—A word on farming—The "bee" and its produce —Eccentricities of Mr. Haldimands—A ride on a troop-horse—Scotch patriotism—An English church—The servant nuisance—Richard Cobden....

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CHAPTER XI.

"I've seen nothing"—A disappointment—Incongruities—Hotel gaieties and "doing Niagara"—Irish drosky-drivers—"The Hell of Waters"—Beauties of Niagara—The picnic party—The white canoe—A cold shower-bath—"The Thunder of Waters"—A magic word—"The Whirlpool"—Story of "Bloody Run"— Yankee opinions of English ladies—A metamorphosis—The nigger guide—A terrible situation—Termination Rock—Impressions of Niagara—Juvenile precocity—A midnight journey—Street adventures in Hamilton....

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CHAPTER XII.

A scene at starting—That dear little Harry—The old lady and the race —Running the Rapids—An aside—Snow and discomfort—A new country—An extemporised ball—Adventure with a madman—Shooting the cataract— First appearance of Montreal—Its characteristics—Quebec in a fog— "Muffins"—Quebec gaieties—The pestilence—Restlessness—St. Louis and St. Roch—The shady side—Dark dens—External characteristics—Lord Elgin—Mistaking a senator....

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CHAPTER XIII.

The House of Commons—Canadian gallantry—The constitution—Mr. Hincks— The ex-rebel—Parties and leaders—A street row—Repeated disappointments —The "habitans"—Their houses and their virtues—A stationary people— Progress and its effects—Montmorenci—The natural staircase—The Indian summer—Lorette—The old people—Beauties of Quebec—The John Munn —Fear and its consequences—A gloomy journey....

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CHAPTER XIV.

Concluding remarks on Canada—Territory—Climate—Capabilities—Railways and canals—Advantages for emigrants—Notices of emigration—Government— The franchise—Revenue—Population—Religion—Education—The press— Literature—Observations in conclusion....

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CHAPTER XV.

Preliminary remarks on re-entering the States—Americanisms—A little slang—Liquoring up—Eccentricities in dress—A 'cute chap down east— Conversation on eating—A Kentucky gal—Lake Champlain—Delaval's—A noisy serenade—Albany—Beauties of the Hudson—The Empire City....

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CHAPTER XVI.

Position of New York—Externals of the city—Conveyances— Maladministration—The stores—The hotels—Curiosities of the hospital— Ragged schools—The bad book—Monster schools—Amusements and oyster saloons—Monstrosities——A restaurant—Dwelling-houses—Equipages— Palaces—Dress—Figures—Manners—Education—Domestic habits—The ladies— The gentlemen—Society—Receptions—Anti-English feeling—Autographs—The buckram Englishman....

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CHAPTER XVII.

The cemetery—Its beauties—The "Potter's Field"—The graves of children— Monumental eccentricities—Arrival of emigrants—Their reception—Poor dwellings—The dangerous class—The elections—The riots—Characteristics of the streets—Journey to Boston—The sights of Boston—Longfellow— Cambridge University....

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CHAPTER XVIII.

Origin of the Constitution—The Executive—Congress—Local Legislatures— The army and navy—Justice—Slavery—Political corruption—The foreign element—Absence of principle—Associations—The Know-nothings—The press and its power—Religion—The church—The clergy....

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CHAPTER XIX.

General remarks continued—The common schools—Their defect—Difficulties —Management of the schools—The free academy—Hallways—Telegraphs— Poverty—Literature—Advantages for emigrants—Difficulties of emigrants— Peace or war—Concluding observations....

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CHAPTER XX.

The America —A gloomy departure—An ugly night—Morning at Halifax—Our new passengers—Babies—Captain Leitch—A day at sea—Clippers and steamers—A storm—An Atlantic moonlight—Unpleasant sensations—A gale— Inkermann—Conclusion. THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN AMERICA. [Footnote: It is necessary to state that this volume is not by the Authoress of the ' Englishwoman in Russia .']...

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CHAPTER I.

Prefatory and explanatory—The voyage out—The sentimental—The actual— The oblivious—The medley—Practical joking—An unwelcome companion— American patriotism—The first view—The departure. As a general dislike of prefaces is unmistakeably evidenced by their uncut leaves, and as unknown readers could scarcely be induced to read a book by the most cogent representations of an unknown author, and as apologies for "rushing into print" are too trite and insincere to have any effect, I will merely prefix

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CHAPTER II

An inhospitable reception—Halifax and the Blue Noses—The heat— Disappointed expectations—The great departed—What the Blue Noses might be—What the coach was not—Nova Scotia and its capabilities—The roads and their annoyances—A tea dinner—A night journey and a Highland cabin— A nautical catastrophe—A joyful reunion. The Cunard steamers are powerful, punctual, and safe, their cuisine excellent, their arrangements admirable, till they reach Halifax, which is usually the destination of many of the pa

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CHAPTER III.

Popular ignorance—The garden island—Summer and winter contrasted—A wooden capital—Island politics, and their consequences—Gossip—"Blowin- time"—Religion and the clergy—The servant nuisance—Colonial society—An evening party—An island premier—Agrarian outrage—A visit to the Indians—The pipe of peace—An Indian coquette—Country hospitality—A missionary—A novel mode of lobster-fishing—Uncivilised life—Far away in the woods—Starvation and dishonesty—An old Highlander and a Highland welcome—Hopes for t

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CHAPTER IV.

From St. George's Cross to the Stars and Stripes—Unpunctuality— Incompetence——A wretched night—Colonial curiosity—The fashions—A night in a buffalo robe—A stage journey—A queer character—Politics— Chemistry—Mathematics—Rotten bridges—A midnight arrival—Colonial ignorance—Yankee conceit—What ten-horse power chaps can do—The pestilence—The city on the rock—New Brunswick—Steamboat peculiarities— Going ahead in the eating line—A storm—Stepping ashore. The ravages of the cholera having in some degree

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CHAPTER V.

First experiences of American freedom—The "striped pig" and "Dusty Ben"— A country mouse—What the cars are like—Beauties of New England—The land of apples—A Mammoth hotel—The rusty inkstand exiled—Eloquent eyes— Alone in a crowd. The city of Portland, with its busy streets, and crowded wharfs, and handsome buildings, and railway depots, rising as it does on the barren coast of the sterile State of Maine, fully bears out the first part of an assertion which I had already heard made by Americans,

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CHAPTER VI.

A suspected bill—A friend in need—All aboard for the Western cars—The wings of the wind-American politeness—A loquacious conductor—Three minutes for refreshments—A conversation on politics—A confession—The emigrant car—Beauties of the woods—A forest on fire—Dangers of the cars—The Queen City of the West. I rose the morning after my arrival at five, hoping to leave Boston for Cincinnati by the Lightning Express , which left at eight. But on summoning the cashier (or rather requesting his attendan

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CHAPTER VII.

The Queen City continued—Its beauties—Its inhabitants human and equine— An American church—Where chairs and bedsteads come from—Pigs and pork—A peep into Kentucky—Popular opinions respecting slavery—The curse of America. The important towns in the United States bear designations of a more poetical nature than might be expected from so commercial a people. New York is the Empire City—Philadelphia the City of Brotherly Love— Cleveland the Forest City—Chicago the Prairie City—and Cincinnati the Que

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CHAPTER VIII.

The hickory stick—Chawing up ruins—A forest scene—A curious questioner —Hard and soft shells—Dangers of a ferry—The western prairies— Nocturnal detention—The Wild West and the Father of Rivers—Breakfast in a shed—What is an alligator?—Physiognomy, and its uses—The ladies' parlour—A Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrors—A water-drinking people—The Prairie City—Progress of the West. A bright September sun glittered upon the spires of Cincinnati as I reluctantly bade it adieu, and set out in t

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CHAPTER IX.

A vexatious incident—John Bull enraged—Woman's rights—Alligators become hosses—A popular host—Military display—A mirth-provoking gun—Grave reminiscences—Attractions of the fair—Past and present—A floating palace—Black companions—A black baby—Externals of Buffalo—The flag of England. The night-cars are always crowded both in Canada and the States, because people in business are anxious to save a day if they have any expedition to make, and, as many of the cars are fitted up with seats of a most c

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CHAPTER X.

The Place of Council—Its progress and its people—English hearts— "Sebastopol is taken"—Squibs and crackers—A ship on her beam-ends— Selfishness—A mongrel city—A Scot—Constancy rewarded—Monetary difficulties—Detention on a bridge—A Canadian homestead—Life in the clearings—The bush on fire—A word on farming—The "bee" and its produce —Eccentricities of Mr. Haldimands—A ride on a troop-horse—Scotch patriotism—An English church—The servant nuisance—Richard Cobden. The people of Toronto informed me, i

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CHAPTER XI.

"I've seen nothing"—A disappointment—Incongruities—Hotel gaieties and "doing Niagara"—Irish drosky-drivers—"The Hell of Waters"—Beauties of Niagara—The picnic party—The White Canoe—A cold shower-bath—"The Thunder of Waters"—A magic word—"The Whirlpool"—Story of "Bloody Run"— Yankee opinions of English ladies—A metamorphosis—The nigger guide—A terrible situation—Termination Rock—Impressions of Niagara—Juvenile precocity—A midnight journey—Street adventures in Hamilton. "Have you seen the Falls?"—

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CHAPTER XII.

A scene at starting—That dear little Harry—The old lady and the race— Running the Rapids—An aside—Snow and discomfort-A new country—An extemporised ball—Adventure with a madman—Shooting the cataract—First appearance of Montreal—Its characteristics—Quebec in a fog—"Muffins"— Quebec gaieties——The pestilence—Restlessness—St. Louis and St. Roch— The shady side—Dark dens—External characteristics—Lord Elgin—Mistaking a senator. The Arabian , by which I left Toronto, was inferior to any American steame

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CHAPTER XIII.

The House of Commons—Canadian gallantry—The constitution—Mr. Hincks— The ex-rebel—Parties and leaders—A street-row—Repeated disappointments —The "habitans"—Their houses and their virtues—A stationary people— Progress and its effects—Montmorenci—The natural staircase—The Indian summer—Lorette—The old people—Beauties of Quebec—The John Munn —Fear and its consequences—A gloomy journey. One of the sights of Quebec—to me decidedly the most interesting one—was the House of Assembly. The Legislature we

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CHAPTER XIV.

Concluding remarks on Canada—Territory—Climate—Capabilities—Railways and canals—Advantages for emigrants—Notices of emigration—Government— The franchise—Revenue—Population—Religion—Education—The press— Literature—Observations in conclusion. The increasing interest which attaches to this noble colony fully justifies me in devoting a chapter to a fuller account of its state and capabilities than has yet been given here. Canada extends from Gaspe, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to Lake Superior. Its

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CHAPTER XV.

Preliminary remarks on re-entering the States—Americanisms—A little slang—Liquoring up—Eccentricities in dress—A 'cute chap down east— Conversation on eating—A Kentucky gal—Lake Champlain—Delaval's—A noisy serenade—Albany—Beauties of the Hudson—The Empire City. It has been truly observed that a reliable book on the United States yet remains to be written. The writer of such a volume must neither be a tourist nor a temporary resident. He must spend years, in the different States, nicely estimatin

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CHAPTER XVI.

Position of New York—Externals of the city—Conveyances— Maladministration—The stores—The hotels—Curiosities of the hospital— Ragged schools—The bad book—Monster schools—Amusements and oyster saloons—Monstrosities—A restaurant—Dwelling-houses—Equipages—Palaces —Dress—Figures—Manners—Education—Domestic habits—The ladies—The gentlemen—Society—Receptions—Anti-English feeling—Autographs—The "Buckram Englishman." New York, from its position, population, influence, and commerce, is worthy to be conside

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CHAPTER XVII.

The cemetery—Its beauties—The "Potter's Field"—The graves of children— Monumental eccentricities—Arrival of emigrants—Their reception—Poor dwellings—The dangerous class—The elections—The riots—Characteristics of the streets—Journey to Boston—The sights of Boston—Longfellow— Cambridge university. It may seem a sudden transition from society to a cemetery, and yet it is not an unnatural one, for many of the citizens of New York carry their magnificence as far as possible to the grave with them, an

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CHAPTER XVIII.

Origin of the Constitution—The Executive—Congress—Local Legislatures— The army and navy—Justice—Slavery—Political corruption—The foreign element—Absence of principle—Associations—The Know-nothings—The Press and its power—Religion—The Church—The Clergy. Before concluding this volume it will be proper to offer a few remarks upon American institutions, and such of their effects as are obvious to a temporary resident in the States. In apology for my own incompetence, I must again remind the reader t

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CHAPTER XIX.

General remarks continued—The common schools—Their defect—Difficulties —Management of the schools—The free academy—Railways—Telegraphs— Poverty—Literature—Advantages for emigrants—Difficulties of emigrants— Peace or war—Concluding observations. At a time when the deficiencies of our own educational system are so strongly felt, it may be well to give an outline of that pursued in the States. The following statistics, taken from the last census, show that our Transatlantic brethren have made great

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CHAPTER XX.

The America —A gloomy departure—An ugly night—Morning at Halifax—Our new passengers—Babies—Captain Leitch—A day at sea—Clippers and steamers—A storm—An Atlantic moonlight—Unpleasant sensations—A gale— Inkermann—Conclusion. On reaching Boston I found that my passage had been taken in the Cunard steamer America , reputed to be the slowest and wettest of the whole line. Some of my kind American friends, anxious to induce me to remain for the winter with them, had exaggerated the dangers and discomf

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