Normandy Picturesque
Henry Blackburn
21 chapters
4 hour read
Selected Chapters
21 chapters
Travelling Edition.
Travelling Edition.
  LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, SON, & MARSTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, FLEET STREET. 1870. London: Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Stamford Street & Charing Cross....
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"TRAVELLING EDITION."
"TRAVELLING EDITION."
In issuing the Travelling Edition of "Normandy Picturesque," the publishers deem it right to state that the body of the work is identical with the Christmas Edition; but that the Appendix contains additional information for the use of travellers, some of which is not to be found in any Guide, or Handbook, to France. The descriptions of places and buildings in Normandy call for little or no alteration in the present edition, excepting in the case of one town, concerning which the Author makes the
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ON THE WING.
ON THE WING.
It is, perhaps, rather a subject for reproach to English people that the swallows and butterflies of our social system are too apt to forsake their native woods and glens in the summer months, and to fly to 'the Continent' for recreation and change of scene; whilst poets tell us, with eloquent truth, that there is a music in the branches of England's trees, and a soft beauty in her landscape more soothing and gracious in their influence than 'aught in the world beside.' Whether it be wise or pru
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PONT AUDEMER.
PONT AUDEMER.
About one hundred and fifty miles in a direct line from the door of the Society of British Architects in Conduit Street, London (and almost unknown, we venture to say, to the majority of its members), sleeps the little town of Pont Audemer , with its quaint old gables, its tottering houses, its Gothic 'bits,' its projecting windows, carved oak galleries, and streets of time-worn buildings—centuries old. Old dwellings, old customs, old caps, old tanneries, set in a landscape of bright green hills
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LISIEUX.
LISIEUX.
'Oh! the pleasant days, when men built houses after their own minds, and wrote their own devices on the walls, and none laughed at them; when little wooden knights and saints peeped out from the angles of gable-ended houses, and every street displayed a store of imaginative wealth.'— La Belle France . We must now pass on to the neighbouring town of Lisieux , which will be found even more interesting than Pont Audemer in examples of domestic architecture of the middle ages; resisting with difficu
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CAEN.
CAEN.
'Large, strong, full of draperies, and all sorts of merchandise; rich citizens, noble dames, damsels, and fine churches.' The ancient city of Caen, which was thus described by Froissart in the middle of the fourteenth century, when the English sacked the town and carried away its riches, might be described in the nineteenth, in almost the same words; when a goodly company of English people have again taken possession of it—for its cheapness. The chief town of the department of Calvados with a po
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BAYEUX.
BAYEUX.
The approach to the town of Bayeux from the west, either by the old road from Caen or by the railway, is always striking. The reader may perchance remember how in old coaching days in England on arriving near some cathedral town, at a certain turn of the road, the first sight of some well-known towers or spires came into view. Thus there are certain spots from which we remember Durham, and from which we have seen Salisbury; and thus, there is a view of all others which we identify with Bayeux. W
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ST. LO—COUTANCES—GRANVILLE. (CHERBOURG.)
ST. LO—COUTANCES—GRANVILLE. (CHERBOURG.)
On our way to St. Lo, Coutances , and Granville on the western coast of Normandy, we may do well—if we are interested in the appliances of modern warfare, and would obtain any idea of the completeness and magnificence of the French Imperial Marine—to see something of Cherbourg , situated near the bold headland of Cap de la Hague. If we look about us as we approach the town, we shall see that the railway is cut through an extraordinary natural fortification of rocks; and if we ascend the heights
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AVRANCHES—MONT ST. MICHAEL.
AVRANCHES—MONT ST. MICHAEL.
There are some places in Europe which English people seem, with one consent, to have made their own; they take possession of them, peacefully enough it is true, but with a determination that the inhabitants find it impossible to resist. Thus it is that Avranches—owing principally, it may be, to its healthiness and cheapness of living, and to the extreme beauty of its situation—has become an English country town, with many of its peculiarities, and a few, it must be added, of its rather unenviabl
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MORTAIN—VIRE—FALAISE.
MORTAIN—VIRE—FALAISE.
We now turn our faces towards the east, and starting again from Avranches on our homeward journey, go very leisurely by diligence, through Mortain and Vire to Falaise. The distance from Avranches to Mortain is not more than twenty miles, and takes nearly five hours; but the country is so beautiful, and the air is so fresh and bracing, that a seat in the banquette of the diligence is one of the most enviable in life. The roof is over-loaded with goods and passengers, which gives a pleasant swayin
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ROUEN.
ROUEN.
At a corner of the market-place at Rouen, there stood, but a few years ago, one of the most picturesque houses in all Normandy, and with a story (if we are to believe the old chroniclers) as pathetic as any in history. It was from a door in this house that, in the year 1431, the unfortunate Joan of Arc was led out to be 'burned as a sorceress' before the people of Rouen. We need not dwell upon the story of the 'fair maid of Orleans,' which every child has by heart, but (mindful of our picturesqu
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THE VALLEY OF THE SEINE.
THE VALLEY OF THE SEINE.
In the fruitful hills that border the river Seine, and form part of the great watershed of Lower Normandy, Nature has poured forth her blessings; and her daughters, who are here lightly sketched, dispense her bounties. It is a pleasant thing to pass homeward through this 'food-producing' land—to go leisurely from town to town, and see something more of country life in Normandy—to see the laden orchards, the cattle upon the hills, and the sloping fields of corn. It is yet early in the autumn, but
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ARCHITECTURE AND COSTUME.
ARCHITECTURE AND COSTUME.
In the course of our little pilgrimage through Normandy, it may have been thought that we dwelt with too much earnestness and enthusiasm on the architecture of the middle ages, as applicable to buildings in the nineteenth century. Let us repeat our belief, that it is in its adaptability to our wants, both practical and artistic, that its true value consists. Mediæval architects in England are never tired of insisting upon this fact; although hitherto they must confess to a certain amount of fail
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THE WATERING PLACES OF NORMANDY.
THE WATERING PLACES OF NORMANDY.
'Trouville est une double extrait de Paris—la vie est une fête, et le costume une mascarade.'— Conty. The watering-places of Normandy are so well known to English people that there is little that is new to be said respecting them; at the same time any description of this country would not be considered complete without some mention of the sea-coast. The principal bathing places on the north coast are the following, commencing from the east:— Dieppe, Fécamp, Étretat, Trouville and Deauville, Vill
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Sketch of Route, showing the Distances, Fares, &c., to and from the principal Places in Normandy.
Sketch of Route, showing the Distances, Fares, &c., to and from the principal Places in Normandy.
Travelling Expenses over the whole of this Route (including the journey from London to Havre, or Dieppe, and back) do not amount to more than 4 l. 4 s. first class, and need not exceed 3 l. 10 s. (see p. 240). Hotel Expenses average about 10 s. a day. Thus it is possible to accomplish month's tour for £20, and one of two months for £35. There are no good hotels in Normandy (excepting at the seaside) according to modern ideas of comfort and convenience. Caen, Avranches , and Rouen may be mentione
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'ARTISTS AND ARABS.' 'TRAVELLING IN SPAIN.' 'THE PYRENEES.'
'ARTISTS AND ARABS.' 'TRAVELLING IN SPAIN.' 'THE PYRENEES.'
Published by Sampson Low and Co., Crown Buildings, Fleet Street, London. Crown 8 vo ., 10s. 6d....
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Sketching in Sunshine.
Sketching in Sunshine.
"Let us sit down here quietly for one day and paint a camel's head, not flinching from the work, but mastering the wonderful texture and shagginess of his thick coat or mane, its massive beauty, and its infinite gradations of colour. "Such a sitter no portrait painter ever had in England. Feed him up first, get a boy to keep the flies from him, and he will remain almost immoveable through the day. He will put on a sad expression in the morning which will not change; he will give no trouble whate
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Opinions of the Press on "Artists and Arabs."
Opinions of the Press on "Artists and Arabs."
' "Artists and Arabs" is a fanciful name for a clever book, of which the figures are Oriental, and the sceneries Algerian. It is full of air and light, and its style is laden, so to speak, with a sense of unutterable freedom and enjoyment; a book which would remind us, not of the article on Algeria in a gazetteer, but of Turner's picture of a sunrise on the African coast .'— Athenæum. ' The lesson which Mr. Blackburn sets himself to impress upon his readers, is certainly in accordance with commo
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In the Present Day.
In the Present Day.
By the late John Phillip, R.A., E. LUNDGREN, WALTER SEVERN, and the AUTHOR....
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Opinions of the Press on "Travelling in Spain."
Opinions of the Press on "Travelling in Spain."
' This pleasant volume, dedicated to the Right Hon. E. Horsman, M.P., by his late private secretary, admirably fulfils its author's design, which was "to record simply and easily, the observations of ordinary English travelers visiting the principal cities of Spain." The travellers whose adventures are here recorded were, however, something more than ordinary observers. Some artists being of the party, have given graceful evidence of their observations in some spiritedly sketches of Spanish scen
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Opinions of the Press on "The Pyrenees."
Opinions of the Press on "The Pyrenees."
' This handsome volume will confirm the opinion of those who hold that M. Doré's real strength lies in landscape. Mr. Blackburn's share in the work is pleasant and readable, and is really what it pretends to be, a description of summer life at French watering-places. It is a bonâ fide record of his own experiences, told without either that abominable smartness, or that dismal book-making, which are the characteristics of too many illustrated books. '— Pall Mall Gazette. ' The author of this volu
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