25 chapters
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25 chapters
PREFACE.
PREFACE.
No one who has talked with many people on the Eastern Question can have failed to remark the wide difference of opinion held on things which ought to be matters of certainty, and on which two opinions ought to be impossible. This divergence of view is only a very natural consequence of the want of any book of authority on the subject. How is one to learn what manner of men these Bulgarians and Greeks of Turkey really are? Hitherto our information has been chiefly obtained from newspaper correspo
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CHAPTER I. THE BULGARIANS.
CHAPTER I. THE BULGARIANS.
Sketch of Bulgarian History—The Slav Occupation—Bulgar Conquest—Mixture of the Races—The Bulgarian Kingdom—Contests with Constantinople—Basil Bulgaroktonos—Bulgaria under Ottoman Rule—Compulsory Conversion—The Pomaks—Oppressive Government—Janissary Conscription—Extortion of Officials—Misery of the People—Improvement under Abdul-Medjid—Fidelity of the Bulgarians to the Porte—The late Revolt no National Movement—The Geographical Limits of Bulgaria—Mixture with Greeks—Life in the House of a Bulgari
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CHAPTER II. THE GREEKS OF TURKEY.
CHAPTER II. THE GREEKS OF TURKEY.
Importance of the Greeks at the Present Moment—Their Attitude—The Greek Peasant as Contrasted with the Bulgarian—His Family—Eloquence—Patriotism—Comforts—The Women—A Greek Girl—Women of the Towns of the Upper Class—Of the Lower Class—Wives and Husbands—Greek Parties—The Conservatives and the Progressives—A Conversation on Greek Go-a-head-ness—Physical Features of the Modern Greek—Character—General Prejudice—A Prussian Estimate—Greek Vices—An Adventure with Greek Brigands—Adelphé—Unscrupulousness
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CHAPTER III. THE ALBANIANS.
CHAPTER III. THE ALBANIANS.
Albania little known to Travellers—Character of the Country—Isolation and Neglect—Products—The Landholders—Ali Bey’s Revolution—Albanian Towns—The Albanian’s House his Castle In a Literal Sense—Blood Feuds—Villages—Unapproachable Position—The Defence of Souli—Joannina—Beautiful Site—Ali Pasha’s Improvements—Greek Enterprise—The Albanians—Separate Tribes—The Ghegs—The Tosks—Character of the Latter—Superiority of the Ghegs—Respect for Women—An Adventure with a Brigand Chief—Gheg Gratitude—A Point
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CHAPTER IV. THE TURKS.
CHAPTER IV. THE TURKS.
Turkish Peasants—Decrease in Numbers—Taxation and Recruiting—Relations with the Christians—Appearance—Amusements—House and Family—Townspeople—Guilds—Moslems and Christians—The Turk as an Artisan—Objection to Innovations—Life in the Town—The Military Class—Government Officials—Pashas—Grand Vizirs—Receptions—A Turkish Lady’s Life—The Princes—The Sultan—Mahmoud—His Reforms—Abdul-Medjid—Abdul-Aziz—Character and Fate—Murad—Abdul-Hamid—Slavery in Turkey. The Turkish peasants inhabiting the rural distr
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CHAPTER V. THE ARMENIANS AND JEWS IN TURKEY.
CHAPTER V. THE ARMENIANS AND JEWS IN TURKEY.
Historical Misfortunes of the Armenians—Refugees in Turkey, Russia, Persia—Want of Patriotism—Appearance and Character—Armenian Ladies—American Mission Work—Schools—The Jews of Turkey—Reputed Origin—Classes—Conservatives and Progressives—Jewish Trade—Prejudice against Jews—Alliance with Moslems—Wealth and Indigence—Cause of the Latter—The Jewish Quarter—Education—“L’Alliance Israélite”—Divorce among the Jews merely a Question of the Highest Bidder. There are few nations that can compete with the
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CHAPTER VI. THE CIRCASSIANS, TATARS, AND GYPSIES OF TURKEY.
CHAPTER VI. THE CIRCASSIANS, TATARS, AND GYPSIES OF TURKEY.
The Circassians. —Their Immigration into Turkey in 1864—Their Camp—Chiefs and Slaves—Origin of the Charge of Cannibalism—Assistance of the Government and the Peasantry—Bulgarian Views of the New-comers—A Cherkess Girl—Sale of Circassian Women—Depredations—Cattle-lifting—Circassian Fellow-travellers in a Steamer—Appearance and Character—Scheme of Philanthropy respectfully offered to Russia. The Tatars. —Their Arrival in the Dobrudcha with a Good Character, which they have since maintained—Their E
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CHAPTER VII. TENURE OF LAND.
CHAPTER VII. TENURE OF LAND.
Three Classes of Lands in Turkey— Vakouf Lands, their Origin and Growth—Turkish Equivalent of Mortmain—Privileges of Tenants on Vakouf Land—Maladministration—Corruption of Charity Agents and Government Inspectors—General System of Embezzlement—Sultan Mahmoud’s Attempted Reform—Insufficiency of Vakouf Revenues as administered; Supplemented by State—General Decay of Vakouf Property, Mosques, Medressés, and Imarets—Misapplication of Vakouf Funds intended for the Support of the Public Water-supply—
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CHAPTER VIII. PEASANT HOLDINGS.
CHAPTER VIII. PEASANT HOLDINGS.
Small Proprietors South of the Balkans —Flourishing State of the Country a few Years ago—A Rose-Harvest at Kezanlik—Bulgarian Villages—Oppressive and Corrupt System of Taxation and of Petty Government—The Disadvantages counterbalanced by the Industry and Perseverance of the Bulgarian Peasant—The Lending Fund in Bulgaria—Its Short Duration—Bulgarian Peasant often unavoidably in Debt—Bulgarian Cottages—Food and Clothing—Excellent Reports of German and Italian Engineers on the Conduct and Working P
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CHAPTER IX. TURKISH HOUSES.
CHAPTER IX. TURKISH HOUSES.
The Turkish Quarter—A Konak —Haremlik and Selamlik—Arrangement of Rooms—Furniture—The Tandour —Turkish Clemency towards Vermin—Bordofska—An Albanian Konak —The Pasha and his Harem—A Turkish Bas-bleu —Ruins of Konaks outside Uskup—The Last of the Albanian Deri-Beys—A Konak at Bazardjik—The Widow of the Deri-Bey— Kiosks — Koulas —A Koula near Salonika—Christian Quarters— Khans —Furniture—Turkish Baths, Public and Private—Cafés. Bright sunshine, fresh air, ample space, and pure water are indispensa
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CHAPTER X. THE SERAGLIO.
CHAPTER X. THE SERAGLIO.
The Chain of Palaces along the Bosphorus— Eski Serai , the oldest of the Seraglios—Its Site and Appearance—Beauty of its Gardens—Contrasts—Its Destruction— Dolma-Bagché and Begler-Bey —Enormous Expenditure of Abdul-Medjid and Abdul-Aziz on Seraglios— Yahlis , or Villas— Begler-Bey furnished for Illustrious Guests—Delicate Attentions of the Sultan—Furniture of Seraglios—Mania of Abdul-Aziz—Everything Inflammable thrown into the Bosphorus—Pleasure Grounds—Interior Divisions of the Seraglio—The Mab
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CHAPTER XI. MUNICIPALITY, POLICE, AND BRIGANDAGE.
CHAPTER XI. MUNICIPALITY, POLICE, AND BRIGANDAGE.
Municipality. —Improvement at Constantinople—No Improvement in Country Towns—Sanitary Negligence. Police. —The Corruption of the old Police—Formation of the new Corps—Its various Classes—Economical Reductions—The Corruption of the new Police—Voluntary Guards the connecting Link between Police and Brigandage. Brigandage. —Ancient and Modern Brigands—Great Diminution of Numbers—Constant Outrages, however—Albanians the born Brigands—Systematic Attacks—Uselessness of the Police—My Brigand Guides—Usu
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CHAPTER XII. CEREMONIES OF BIRTH AND INFANCY.
CHAPTER XII. CEREMONIES OF BIRTH AND INFANCY.
The Birth of a Turkish Child—Midwives—Mummification of the Baby—Amulets—The State Bedstead—Naming the Child—Invalid Diet—Reception of Friends and Strangers—Treatment of the Baby—Evil Eye, and Remedies thereagainst—Bathing of Mother and Child—Daubing of the Mother and Refreshment of the Guests—The Cradle—Opiates given to Children—Treatment of Baby Illnesses—Food—Deaths from Over-eating—Late weaning—Circumcision—Procession—Rejoicings—Hospitality—The Diseases of Childhood and their Treatment in Tur
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CHAPTER XIII. FOOD.
CHAPTER XIII. FOOD.
A Turkish Kitchen—Turkish Meals—Dinner—Coffee—European Innovations—Turkish Cookery—The Sultan’s Kitchen—Turkish Gourmets—Economy of Food—Hospitality—Greek and Bulgarian Food—Lent Dishes—European Manners among the Greeks—Armenian Gluttony—Marriages with Cooks—Jewish Food—A Bulgarian Ménage—Experiences of a Dinner in the Opium Country—Refreshment to Visitors—Tatlou—Sherbet—Coffee—Wine and Spirits—Recipe for Making Coffee à la Turca —Milk—Cheese—Sour Cream—A Diplomatic Coup—Cook-shops. A Turkish ki
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CHAPTER XIV. DRESS.
CHAPTER XIV. DRESS.
The Old Turkish Dress—European Innovations—Present Dress of Upper Class of Turks—Peasant Dress—Dress of Ulema—Ladies’ In-door Costume in Old Times—Out-door Dress— Yashmaks and Feridjés —Green—The Spinach Field of Broussa—Women’s Dress of the Lower Orders—Children—The Dress of Turkish Ladies in the Present Day—Ludicrous Use of European Garments—Conservatism in Dress among the Peasants—Dress of the Rayahs—Macedonia—Thessaly—Epirus—Bulgaria—Inappropriateness of Dress to Different Occasions—Turkish
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CHAPTER XV. TURKISH WEDDINGS.
CHAPTER XV. TURKISH WEDDINGS.
Early Marriage—Betrothal—Divorce—Love Matches—The Trousseau—Wedding Ceremonies—Marital Discipline in Macedonia—Monday: Arrangement of Trousseau in Bridegroom’s House—Tuesday: Bathing the Bride—Wednesday: Visit of the Bridegroom’s Party to Bride’s House—Great Festivities—The Kena—Thursday: The Girding of the Bride—The Bridegroom goes to the Mosque—Final Amenities of Friendship—Interested Marriages. The Turks generally marry early, from seventeen for the men, and from eleven for the girls—who all
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MARRIAGE AMONG THE BULGARIANS.
MARRIAGE AMONG THE BULGARIANS.
Fourteen years spent among Bulgarians afforded me the opportunity of witnessing many marriage ceremonies, which were very peculiar and interesting. Especially curious are those of Upper Macedonia, as presenting remarkable traces of Dionysian worship. The matrimonial negotiations are carried on by the stroinichitsita and stroinitcote , persons commissioned by the parents to find a suitable parti for their marriageable daughters; the proposal, among the peasants, being addressed by the man to the
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ARMENIAN WEDDINGS.
ARMENIAN WEDDINGS.
The Armenian fiançailles , although contracted in a very simple fashion, are not easily annulled, and can only be set aside for very serious reasons. A priest, commissioned by the friends of the aspirant, makes the proposals of marriage to the young lady’s parents. Should the offer be accepted, he is again sent, accompanied by another priest, to present to the fiancée a small gold cross bought by her betrothed for the benefit of the Church, and of a price proportioned to the means of the family.
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CHAPTER XVII. FUNERAL CEREMONIES.
CHAPTER XVII. FUNERAL CEREMONIES.
Moslem Funerals. —Fatalism—Ceremonies before Burial—Testimony of the Guests—Procession to the Grave—The Imam’s Questioning—Funerals of Women—Effects of Rapid Burial—Sorrow for the Dead—Mourning—Prayers for the Dead—Funeral of a Dervish Sheikh. Greek Funerals. —Remains of Ancient Greek Rites—Myriologia—The Obol for Charon—The Funeral Service—The Interment—Mourning—Second Marriage—Masses for the Souls of the Departed—Wheat Offerings—Opening of the Tomb and Collecting of the Bones—Bulgarian Ceremon
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CHAPTER XVIII. EDUCATION AMONG THE MOSLEMS.
CHAPTER XVIII. EDUCATION AMONG THE MOSLEMS.
The absence of any approach to sound education of the most rudimentary kind throughout the country is among the prime causes of the present degraded condition of the Turks. Both at home and at school the Moslem learns almost nothing that will serve him in good stead in after life. Worse than this, in those early years spent at home, when the child ought to have instilled into him some germ of those principles of conduct by which men must walk in the world if they are to hold up their heads among
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CHAPTER XIX. EDUCATION AMONG THE GREEKS AND BULGARIANS.
CHAPTER XIX. EDUCATION AMONG THE GREEKS AND BULGARIANS.
The Turkish Conquest and Greek Schools—Monasteries almost the sole Preservers of Letters—Movement of the last Half-Century—Athenian Teaching and Its Influence on Turkey—Education of the Greeks at Constantinople—Μνημόσυνα—Salonika Girls’ Schools—Boys’ Schools—A Greek School based upon Mr. Herbert Spencer—The Past and the Present of the Greeks— Bulgarian Ignorance—Birth of a Desire for Knowledge—A Report from a Bulgarian Young Lady—The First Bulgarian Book—Bulgarian Authors—Schools—Church Supervis
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CHAPTER XX. SUPERSTITION.
CHAPTER XX. SUPERSTITION.
Superstitious Character of the Dwellers in Turkey—Olympus—Klephtic Legends—The Vrykolakas—Local Spirits—A Vampire at Adrianople—Spirits of the Springs—Miraculous Cures—Magic—Influence upon Bulgarians—An Historiette—Antidotes for Spells—The Meras Tas —Universal Belief in Magic, and the Consequences— Buyu Boghchas —The Buyu Boghchas of Abdul-Medjid and Aziz—Quack Astrologers—A Superstitious Pasha—The Evil Eye—Remedies thereagainst—Spring Bleeding—Vipers—Means of expelling Vermin—Remedial Propertie
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CHAPTER XXI. ISLAM IN TURKEY.
CHAPTER XXI. ISLAM IN TURKEY.
Religious Parties—The Ulema and Softas—Conservatism—Imams, Muftis, and Kadis or Mollahs—Corruption—The Dervishes—Their Influence over the People—A Dervish Fanatic in Bulgaria—Various Orders of Dervishes—Revolving and Howling Dervishes—The Bektashis—A Frank Sheikh—Ceremonies of Islam—Friday at the Mosque—The Prayers—Ramazan—A Night in Ramazan—Pilgrimage—Kismet. The religion of the Turks is properly the orthodox or Sunni form of Islam, the doctrines of which are too well known to require descripti
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CHAPTER XXII. CHRISTIANITY IN TURKEY.
CHAPTER XXII. CHRISTIANITY IN TURKEY.
The Greek or Holy Orthodox Church—Its Character under Ottoman Rule—Its Service to the Greek Nation—Superstitious Doctrines and Rites—Improvement—Revenues—Bishops—Patriarchs—The Higher Clergy—Schools—Parish Priests—Fatal Influence of Connection with the State—Monasteries—Mount Athos—The Five Categories of Monks—Government of the “Holy Mountain”—Pilgrims—The Bulgarian Church—Popular Interest in the Church Question—Sketch of the History of the Schism—The Armenian Church—St. Gregory—Creed—Church Pol
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CHAPTER XXIII. RELIGIOUS TOLERANCE AND MISSIONARY WORK.
CHAPTER XXIII. RELIGIOUS TOLERANCE AND MISSIONARY WORK.
Turkish Tolerance—High Disdain for Christians—American Mission Work—Roman Catholic Missionaries—Catholic Establishments—The Uniates—United Armenians—Mechitar—The Two Parties—Persecutions—European Interference—The Hassounists—The Hope for Armenia. From the time of the Ottoman conquest spiritual liberty has been allowed to all creeds in Turkey, and the external observances and ceremonies of religion have, in most places, been permitted by the Moslems, though in some even funeral ceremonies were of
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