Old Melbourne Memories
Rolf Boldrewood
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27 chapters
OLD MELBOURNEMEMORIES
OLD MELBOURNEMEMORIES
BY ROLF BOLDREWOOD AUTHOR OF 'MY RUN HOME,' 'THE SQUATTER'S DREAM,' 'ROBBERY UNDER ARMS,' ETC. SECOND EDITION, REVISED London MACMILLAN AND CO., Ltd. NEW YORK: MACMILLAN & CO. 1896 All rights reserved TO MY EARLIEST ADMIRER AND MOST INDULGENT CRITIC My Dearest Mother FROM WHOM I DERIVE THE WRITING FACULTY AND TO WHOM IS CHIEFLY DUE WHATEVER MEED OF PRAISE MY READERS MAY HEREAFTER VOUCHSAFE...
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PREFACE
PREFACE
These reminiscences of the early days of Melbourne—a city which, as a family, we helped to found—awakened, when first published in the columns of the Australasian , an amount of general interest most gratifying to the writer. It is hoped that, in their present more convenient form, they may secure and retain the approbation of the public. I should feel bound to apologise for the mention of names in full were I not conscious that I have written no line calculated to offend; nor have I, for one mo
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CHAPTER I A.D. 1840
CHAPTER I A.D. 1840
Standing in the gathering winterly twilight, at the intersection of Elizabeth and Flinders Streets, one instinctively remarks the long crowded suburban trains, laden with homeward-bound passengers, quitting the city and care for the night's charmed interval. All the streets of busy Melbourne are yet thronged, in spite of the apparently rapid diminution which is proceeding. The indefinable hum, noticeable in large urban populations at the close of the day, as the lamps are lit, which mark for mos
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CHAPTER II THE FAR WEST
CHAPTER II THE FAR WEST
It seems only the other day—but surely it must be a long time ago—that January evening of 1844, when I camped my cattle near the old burying-ground at North Melbourne. I was bound for the Western district, where I proposed to "take up a run." And towards this pastoral paradise the dawn saw my "following" winding its way next morning. A modest drove and slender outfit were mine; all that the hard times had spared. Two or three hundred well-bred cattle, a dray and team with provisions for six mont
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CHAPTER III THE DEATH OF VIOLET
CHAPTER III THE DEATH OF VIOLET
Though kangaroo were plentiful, they were not so overwhelming in number as they have since become. Joe Burge and I had many a day's good sport together on foot. Like Mr. Sawyer and other sensible people, we often saved our horses by using our own legs. For the dogs, Chase was a rough-haired Scotch deerhound, not quite pure, yet had she great speed and courage. Nothing daunted her. I saw her once jump off a dray, where she was in hospital with a broken leg (it had been smashed by the kick of an e
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CHAPTER IV DUNMORE
CHAPTER IV DUNMORE
By this time the winter rains had commenced to fall. The wild weather of the western coast, with fierce gales from the south-east, and driving storms of sleet, showed clearly that "the year had turned." The roads were knee-deep in mud, the creeks full, the nights long and cold. However, grass was plentiful, and So away. Vogue la galère. The dray, with Joe Burge and his wife, and Chase, the deerhound, went on ahead, while I, with Mr. Cunningham, a new companion, who had dwelt in those parts befor
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CHAPTER V SQUATTLESEA MERE
CHAPTER V SQUATTLESEA MERE
Pride and successful ambition swelled my breast on that first morning as I looked round on my run. My run! my own station! How fine a sound it had, and how fine a thing it was that I should have the sole occupancy—almost ownership—of about 50,000 acres of "wood and wold," mere and marshland, hill and dale. It was all my own—after a fashion—that is, I had but to receive my squatting license, under the hand of the Governor of the Australias, for which I paid ten pounds, and no white man could in a
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CHAPTER VI THE EUMERALLA WAR
CHAPTER VI THE EUMERALLA WAR
We had been informed that the Eumeralla people, when that station was first taken up by Mr. Hunter for Hughes and Hoskins, of Sydney, always took their guns into the milking-yard with them, for fear of a surprise. The story went that one day a sudden attack "was" made. While the main body was engaged, a wing of the invading force made a flank movement, and bore down upon the apparently undefended homestead. There, however, they were confronted by Mr. William Carmichael, a neighbour of Falstaffia
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CHAPTER VII THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS
CHAPTER VII THE CHILDREN OF THE ROCKS
Mr. Learmonth had taken up Ettrick and Ellangowan, a few miles higher up on the same creek, about the same time that I "sat down" on the Lower Eumeralla. This gentleman, since an officer of high rank in the volunteer force, had lately come from Tasmania, whence he brought some valuable blood mares, with which he founded a stud in after years. The cattle run comprised a good deal of lava country. It was there that Bradbury, the civilised aboriginal before mentioned, met his death. All the land th
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CHAPTER VIII THE NATIVE POLICE
CHAPTER VIII THE NATIVE POLICE
On the third day after our departure Joe and his wife were in the milking-yard finishing the morning's work, when suddenly Mrs. Burge, looking towards the road, exclaimed, "Good God! the hut's full of blacks!" Realising that her infant lay in his cradle in the front room, she rushed down, in spite of Joe's command to stay where she was while he confronted the enemy. "Sure, isn't the child there?" she said. "And whether or not, mayn't you and I be as well killed together?" Joe, having no sufficie
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CHAPTER IX KILFERA
CHAPTER IX KILFERA
Our border ruffians being settled with for good and all, we pioneers were enabled to devote ourselves to our legitimate business—the breeding and fattening of cattle. For this industry the Port Fairy district was eminently fitted, and at that time—how different from the present!—sheep and wool were rather at a discount. Of course, some men had sufficient foresight and shrewdness to back the golden fleece, but their experiences were not encouraging. The heavy herbage and rich soil of the West ten
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CHAPTER X OLD PORT FAIRY
CHAPTER X OLD PORT FAIRY
Mr. Burchett was rather famous for combining pleasure with business when travelling on the road with stock. At times his experiments were thought un peu risqués . It was related of him and Mr. Alick Kemp (I think) that finding themselves so near Melbourne as the Saltwater River, in sole charge of a mob of fat cattle from "The Gums," they held council, and decided that the cattle would be all right in a bend of the river till the morning, being quiet and travel-worn. The friends then started for
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CHAPTER XI PORTLAND BAY
CHAPTER XI PORTLAND BAY
Squattlesea Mere was about ten miles from the coast, and equidistant from the towns of Port Fairy and Portland, the latter lying about thirty miles westward. My first visit to it was on the occasion of a sale of some fat cattle to Mr. Henty for the use of the whalers—who were then still extant. Of course there were plenty of bullocks at Muntham, but it was hardly worth while to send so far for so small a lot. I was ready to deliver, and not indisposed for the trip and adventure myself. So, havin
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CHAPTER XII GRASMERE
CHAPTER XII GRASMERE
What tales came in from far and near of ruin and disaster—farms and stations, huts and houses, rich and poor!—all had equally suffered in the Great Fire, long remembered throughout the length and breadth of the land. However, a bush fire is not so bad as a drought. A certain destruction of pasture and property takes place, but there is not the widespread devastation among the flocks and herds caused by a dry season. Heavy rain set in a short time afterwards, in our district at any rate. The burn
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CHAPTER XIII SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY
CHAPTER XIII SUPERIOR FATTENING COUNTRY
Blackfellows' Creek, or "Harton Hills," as the proprietor caused it to be designated when it commenced to acquire fame and reputation, was a striking example of the well-known faith held by experienced pastoralists, that a good run will manage itself, and make lots of money for its owner, whereas no amount of management will cause much difference in the profits or losses of a bad run. Blackfellows' Creek was proverbially managed "anyhow." There was a large herd of cattle upon it, which certainly
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CHAPTER XIV BURCHETT OF "THE GUMS"
CHAPTER XIV BURCHETT OF "THE GUMS"
This was the well-known name of an exceedingly choice run close to Nareeb Nareeb, on Muston's Creek, and at an early period in the occupation of the Messrs. Charles, Henry, and Fred Burchett. The name was allotted by Charles, who said that as the old country places were christened "The Oaks," "The Ashes," "The Beeches," and so on, he thought it befitting that an Australian homestead should be known as "The Gums." So mote it be; and I fancy Mr. Ross, the present owner, has by no means changed the
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CHAPTER XV WORK AND PLAY
CHAPTER XV WORK AND PLAY
The captain's first cattle-muster was fixed for a certain day. I had the honour of being invited specially to superintend the classing and drafting of the bullocks, retaining the presumably marketable, and condemning the irreconcilables. I was happy to accede, but a slight difficulty stood in the way. The night preceding the muster had been devoted to the coming ball at Dunmore, an anxiously-anticipated festivity, to which all Port Fairy was bidden, and from which no loyal Western man could be a
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CHAPTER XVI THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD
CHAPTER XVI THE ROMANCE OF A FREEHOLD
In a recent advertisement in the Australasian I observed public notice to be given that "the rich agricultural lands of the Kangatong estate, near Port Fairy, would be subdivided at an early date, and sold in farms to suit purchasers." What changes time doth bring! When I first saw the ground referred to, then known as "Cox's Heifer Station," how could one divine the transformation it was fated to undergo? As little in 1844 was prevision possible of the separate sale notices in which it would fi
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CHAPTER XVII LE CHEVALIER BAYARD
CHAPTER XVII LE CHEVALIER BAYARD
It was in a year "before the gold" that I had occasion to ride to Kalangadoo, across the Adelaide border near Mount Gambier. Kalangadoo was a cattle station, then the property of the Messrs. Hunter, Alick, Jemmy, and Frank, who then dwelt there, and led the half-laborious, half-romantic life which to the cattle-station holder of the day was allotted. The "Mount Gambier mob," as in colonial parlance described, was at that time composed of men the majority of whom had attained to social distinctio
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CHAPTER XVIII THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG
CHAPTER XVIII THE CHRISTENING OF HEIDELBERG
When we came to Melbourne in 1840 we might have bought all the land between Prince's Bridge and Upper Toorak for the merest trifle above "upset price." As to Sandridge, St. Kilda, and Brighton, they might almost have been "taken up," so low was the estimate of their value by the colonists of the period. Mr. Dendy did pre-empt 5000 acres hard by the city, at Brighton, under the special survey regulations which then obtained, at £1 per acre. We certainly secured a trifle of seventy acres, upon whi
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CHAPTER XIX THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE
CHAPTER XIX THE WOODLANDS STEEPLECHASE
Sang the ladye fayre. I can hear the clear rich tones even now. Ah me! what days were those! Why will they not come back? We are scarcely of such hoar antiquity that we may not enjoy the present reasonably, when "gracieuses" dames and demoiselles look brightly on us with those haunting eyes of theirs. But, oh! the awakening at dawn, that is when we find the difference. How glorious was it to regain consciousness from out a realm of poet dreams, with the certainty of a day of stirring world-strif
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CHAPTER XX YERING
CHAPTER XX YERING
When Mr. Lemuel Bolden and I rode to Yering from Heidelberg, about the year 1845, to pay a promised visit to Mr. William Ryrie, the Upper Yarra road and the place of our destination presented a different appearance. We forded the Yarra below Mr. D. C. M'Arthur's orchard, and crossing a heavily-timbered river-flat, with deep reed-fringed lagoons, debouched on the up-river road. This particular locality was well known to me, inasmuch as, being formerly in our pastoral possession, it had constitute
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CHAPTER XXI TALES OF A "TRAVELLER"
CHAPTER XXI TALES OF A "TRAVELLER"
This is a "horsey" sketch, possibly therefore unacceptable to the general reader. But any chronicle of my early days, connected as they were with the birth of a great city, would be incomplete without mention of the noble animal so dear to every youthful Australian. Reared in an atmosphere redolent of the swift courser's triumphs, often compelled to entrust life and limb to the good horse's speed, care indeed requires to be taken that the southern Briton does not somewhat overvalue his fascinati
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CHAPTER XXII YAMBUK
CHAPTER XXII YAMBUK
Once upon a time, in a "kingdom by the sea," known to men as Port Fairy, "Yambuk" was a choice and precious exemplar of the old-fashioned cattle station. What a haven of peace—what a restful elysium, would it be in these degenerate days of hurry and pressure and progress, and all that—could one but fall upon it! If one could only gallop up now to that garden gate, receive the old cordial welcome, and turn his horse into the paddock, what a fontaine de jouvence would bubble up! Should one ride fo
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THE DEATH OF WELFORD[1]
THE DEATH OF WELFORD[1]
[1] A young Englishman, "killed by blacks on the Barcoo."...
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WANTED
WANTED
A young Lady of twenty-three years of age, as a teacher in a Ladies' School. Satisfactory references required.— " Times " Advertisement ....
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"PRIEZ POUR ELLE"
"PRIEZ POUR ELLE"
AN INCIDENT OF THE INDIAN MUTINY   Printed by R. & R. Clark , Limited , Edinburgh ....
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