The Wigmaker In Eighteenth-Century Williamsburg
Thomas K. Bullock
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10 chapters
THE WIGMAKER in Eighteenth-Century WILLIAMSBURG
THE WIGMAKER in Eighteenth-Century WILLIAMSBURG
An Account of his Barbering, Hair-Dressing, & Peruke-Making Services, & some Remarks on Wigs of Various Styles. Williamsburg Craft Series WILLIAMSBURG Published by Colonial Williamsburg MCMLXXXVII Richard Gamble, barber and perukemaker of Williamsburg in the middle years of the eighteenth century, appears to have remained a bachelor all his life. Other than this he seems to have been no more improvident than the average craftsman of his time. That is to say, he came—or was brough
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BEARDS, WIGS, AND HISTORY
BEARDS, WIGS, AND HISTORY
The trouble with hair is that it persists in growing, and every once in a while something must be done about it. Over the millenia since time began—or at least since people began—that “something” has been manifold in variety: dyeing, bleaching, oiling, powdering, pomading, trimming, curling, straightening, shaving off completely, or augmenting with hair from horses, cows, goats, and from other human heads. Shaving the face was not customary among the ancient Greeks until Alexander the Great orde
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WIG SHOPS IN WILLIAMSBURG
WIG SHOPS IN WILLIAMSBURG
The shop that Richard Gamble entrusted to his new partner in 1752 stood next door to the Raleigh Tavern, in what was sometimes called “the most public part of the city.” Certainly no better location in Williamsburg could have been found for a barber shop than on the Duke of Gloucester Street in the block nearest the Capitol. “The Preposterous Head Dress, or the Feathered Lady” is the title of this satirical print issued in London in 1776. Contemporary accounts indicate that the artist did not gr
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MASTERS, SERVANTS, AND MATERIALS
MASTERS, SERVANTS, AND MATERIALS
In such a small shop it seems unlikely that even a leading wigmaker could have had very many helpers. But Edward Charlton at one time had four apprentices and journeymen, and one of his contemporaries, Robert Lyon, in the space of two years had five known bond servants, at least three identified as barber-wigmakers. Apprenticeship to a master barber and perukemaker was the normal—in fact the only—way for a boy to learn the trade. The Williamsburg wigmakers presumably all entered the craft in thi
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COLONIAL CLIENTELE
COLONIAL CLIENTELE
A few of the Williamsburg barbers and perukemakers advertised their readiness to dress ladies’ hair, and Charlton regularly made “curls” for his customers’ wives. But most seem to have confined themselves wholly—or almost so—to barbering and bewigging male clients. These clients were either town dwellers or members of the plantation gentry, who were the colony’s economic, political, and social elite. Of every hundred Virginians, eighty or more were small farmers or farm workers and did not own w
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THE MOST POPULAR PERUKES
THE MOST POPULAR PERUKES
The French Encyclopédie Perruquière listed 45 styles of wig in its 1727 edition, 115 styles in that of 1764. While a complete catalogue is impossible here, some description in words and pictures of the most frequent varieties may assist gentlemen of the twentieth century to choose (in their mind’s eye) the style that would suit them best. The wigs pictured and described do not presume to share the amazing characteristics claimed by a London maker of 1760. His advertising avowed: to ecclesiastica
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THE MAKING OF A WIG
THE MAKING OF A WIG
The eighteenth-century wig was built up of rows of hair woven at the root ends to cross-threads, each row being then sewn to a net-and-ribbon skullcap or “caul.” The steps in making a queue wig would differ, of course, in some detail from those in making a wig without a queue. But the basic procedures in the eighteenth-century manner of perukemaking are the same for any style, and can be set forth briefly under the following seven headings: (1) Taking the Measurements —The customer’s head (prefe
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STYLES AND PRICES
STYLES AND PRICES
If brown dress bob wigs at 43 shillings each were by far the most popular of Edward Charlton’s products—he sold sixty in one year—they were by no means the only style he made. Perukes not only came in almost endless variety; their prices differed likewise. Even wigs of the same style from the same maker could vary widely in price (according to the kind and quality of materials, care in workmanship, etc.) as the accompanying advertisement shows. Clendinning’s prices were in the same range as thos
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THE BARBERS AND WIGMAKERS OF WILLIAMSBURG
THE BARBERS AND WIGMAKERS OF WILLIAMSBURG
Andrew Anderson —Apprenticed for seven years to John Peter Wagnon of Williamsburg in 1731. After only five years became his own master and bought Wagnon’s shop next to the Raleigh Tavern. The only Williamsburg barber known to have practiced dentistry and phlebotomy. Frequently in court as witness, plaintiff, or defendant in suits over property, debts, etc. Sold out to William Peake, Yorktown barber and wigmaker, and was preparing to leave for England when he died suddenly in 1752. Stephen Besout
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SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER READING
SUGGESTIONS FOR FURTHER READING
Janet Arnold, Perukes & Periwigs . London: Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, 1970. C. Willett and Phyllis Cunnington, Handbook of English Costume in the Eighteenth Century . Rev. ed. Boston: Plays, Inc., 1972. Marshall B. Davidson, Life in America . 2 vols. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1951. Charles De Zemler, Once Over Lightly: The Story of Man and His Hair . New York, 1939. Alice M. Earle, Two Centuries of Costume in America, 1620-1820 . New York: Macmillan, 1903. Mary Evans, Costume Throu
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