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THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA VOL. I.
THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA VOL. I.
LONDON PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO . NEW-STREET SQUARE THE IVORY PORTER. THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION BY RICHARD F. BURTON Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 The right of translation is reserved IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. I. LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 The right of translation is reserved TO MY SISTER, MARIA STISTED , THESE PAGES AR
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
I had intended this record of personal adventure to appear immediately after my return to Europe, in May 1859. The impaired health, the depression of spirits, and worse still the annoyance of official correspondence, which to me have been the sole results of African Exploration, may be admitted as valid reasons for the delay. In April, 1860, the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain honoured me by publishing a detailed paper, forming the XXIXth Volume of their Journal, from which the topog
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FIFTH REGION.
FIFTH REGION.
The distance from Kaole to Ujiji is of 540 rectilinear geographical miles: or in statute miles, allowing one for windings of the road, thus: Assuming the absolute time of travelling to be 420 hours, this will give a marching rate of 2·27 miles per hour....
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CHAPTER I. WE QUIT ZANZIBAR ISLAND IN DIGNIFIED STYLE.
CHAPTER I. WE QUIT ZANZIBAR ISLAND IN DIGNIFIED STYLE.
At noon, on the 16th of June, 1857, the corvette Artémise, after the usual expenditure of gunpowder which must in Eastern lands announce every momentous event, from the birth of a prince to the departure of a bishop, slowly gliding out of Zanzibar harbour, afforded us a farewell glance at the whitewashed mosques and houses of the Arabs, the cadjan-huts, the cocoa-grown coasts, and the ruddy hills striped with long lines of clove. Onwards she stole before a freshening breeze, the balmy breath of
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CHAP. II. ZANZIBAR AND THE MRIMA EXPLAINED.
CHAP. II. ZANZIBAR AND THE MRIMA EXPLAINED.
The history of the word Zanzibar is curious. Its Persian origin proves that the Iranians were in early days a more maritime people than Vincent and other writers imagine. Zanzibar, signifying Nigritia, or Blackland, is clearly derived from the “Zang,” in Arabic Zanj, a negro, and “bar,” a region. This Zangbar was changed by the Arabs, who ignore in writing the hard g , into Zanjíbár; they still, however, pronounce Zangbar, and consider it synonymous with another popular expression, “Mulk el Zunu
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CHAP. III. TRANSIT OF THE VALLEY OF THE KINGANI AND THE MGETA RIVERS.
CHAP. III. TRANSIT OF THE VALLEY OF THE KINGANI AND THE MGETA RIVERS.
It was a gallant sight to see the Baloch, as with trailed matchlocks, and in bravery of shield, sword, and dagger, they hurried in Indian file out of the Kaole cantonments, following their blood-red flag and their high-featured, snowy-bearded chief, the “Shaib Mohammed,”—old Mohammed. The band, “like worms,” as they expressed its numbers, which amounted to nearly a hundred, about one-third of the venerable Jemadar’s command, was marching forth to bid us farewell, in token of respect, at Mgude or
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CHAP. IV. ON THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE FIRST REGION.
CHAP. IV. ON THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE FIRST REGION.
Before bidding adieu to the Maritime Region, it will be expedient to enter into a few details concerning its geography and ethnology. [7] [7] Those who consider the subject worthy of further consideration are referred, for an ampler account of it, to the Journal of the R. Geographical Society, vol. xxix. of 1860. The first or maritime region extends from the shores of the Indian Ocean in E. long. 39° to the mountain-chain forming the land of Usagara in E. long. 37° 28′; its breadth is therefore
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CHAP. V. HALT AT ZUNGOMERO, AND FORMATION OF THE CARAVAN.
CHAP. V. HALT AT ZUNGOMERO, AND FORMATION OF THE CARAVAN.
I halted to collect carriage and to await the arrival of the twenty-two promised porters for about a fortnight at that hot-bed of pestilence, Zungomero, where we nearly found “wet graves.” Our only lodging was under the closed eaves of a hut built African-fashion, one abode within the other. The roof was a sieve, the walls were systems of chinks, and the floor was a sheet of mud. Outside the rain poured pertinaciously, as if K’hutu had been situated in the “black north” of Hibernia; the periodic
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CHAP. VI. WE CROSS THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS.
CHAP. VI. WE CROSS THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS.
On the 7th August, 1857, the Expedition left Zungomero. We were martyred by miasma; my companion and I were so feeble, that we could scarcely sit our asses, and weakness had almost deprived us of the sense of hearing. It was a day of severe toil. We loaded with difficulty, for the slaves and porters did not assemble till past 8 A.M. , and instead of applying for their loads to Said bin Salim, every man ran off with the lightest burden or the easiest ass. THE EAST AFRICAN GHAUTS. From Central Zun
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CHAP. VII. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE SECOND REGION.
CHAP. VII. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF THE SECOND REGION.
The second or mountain region extends from the western frontier of K’hutu, at the head of the alluvial valley, in E. long. 37° 28′, to the province of Ugogi, the eastern portion of the flat table-land of Ugogo, in E. long. 36° 14′. Its diagonal breadth is 85 geographical and rectilinear miles; and native caravans, if lightly laden, generally traverse it in three weeks, including three or four halts. Its length cannot be estimated. According to the guides, Usagara is a prolongation of the mountai
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CHAP. VIII. WE SUCCEED IN TRAVERSING UGOGO.
CHAP. VIII. WE SUCCEED IN TRAVERSING UGOGO.
Ugogo, the reader may remember, was the ultimate period applied to the prospects of the Exploration by the worthy Mr. Rush Ramji, in conversation with the respectable Ladha Damha, Collector of Customs, Zanzibar. I halted three days at Ugogi to recruit the party and to lay in rations for four long desert marches. Apparently there was an abundance of provisions, but the people at first declined to part with their grain and cattle even at exorbitant prices, and the Baloch complained of “cleanness o
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CHAP. IX. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOGRAPHY OF UGOGO,—THE THIRD REGION.
CHAP. IX. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOGRAPHY OF UGOGO,—THE THIRD REGION.
The third division of the country visited is a flat table-land extending from the Ugogi “Dhun,” or valley, at the western base of the Wasagara Mountains, in E. long. 36° 14′, to Tura, the eastern district of Unyamwezi, in E. long. 33° 57′; occupying a diagonal breadth of 155 geographical rectilinear miles. The length from north to south is not so easily estimated. The Wahumba and the Wataturu in the former, and the Wahehe and Warori in the latter direction, are migratory tribes that spurn a civi
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CHAP. X. WE ENTER UNYAMWEZI, THE FAR-FAMED LAND OF THE MOON.
CHAP. X. WE ENTER UNYAMWEZI, THE FAR-FAMED LAND OF THE MOON.
The district of Tura, though now held, like Jiwe la Mkoa and Mgongo T’hembo, by Wakimbu, is considered the eastern frontier of Unyamwezi proper, which claims superiority over the minor neighbouring tribes. Some, however, extend the “land of the moon” eastward as far as Jiwe la Mkoa, and the porters when entering the “Fiery Field,” declare that they are setting foot upon their own ground. The word “Tura,” pronounced by the Wanyamwezi “Tula” or “Itula,” means “put down!” (scil. your pack): as the
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CHAP. XI. WE CONCLUDE THE TRANSIT OF UNYAMWEZI.
CHAP. XI. WE CONCLUDE THE TRANSIT OF UNYAMWEZI.
I was detained at Kazeh from the 8th November to the 14th December, 1857, and the delay was one long trial of patience. It is customary for stranger-caravans proceeding towards Ujiji to remain six weeks or two months at Unyanyembe for repose and recovery from the labours which they have, or are supposed to have, endured: moreover, they are expected to enjoy the pleasures of civilised society, and to accept the hospitality offered to them by the resident Arabs. In Eastern Africa, I may again sugg
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THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA VOL. II.
THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA VOL. II.
LONDON PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO . NEW-STREET SQUARE NAVIGATION OF THE TANGANYIKA LAKE. THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA A PICTURE OF EXPLORATION BY RICHARD F. BURTON Capt. H. M. I. Army: Fellow and Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. II. LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 The right of translation is reserved IN TWO VOLUMES VOL. II. LONDON LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, AND ROBERTS 1860 The right of translation is reserved...
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CHAPTER XII. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF UNYAMWEZI.—THE FOURTH REGION.
CHAPTER XII. THE GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY OF UNYAMWEZI.—THE FOURTH REGION.
The fourth division is a hilly table-land, extending from the western skirts of the desert Mgunda Mk’hali, in E. long. 33° 57′, to the eastern banks of the Malagarazi River, in E. long. 31° 10′: it thus stretches diagonally over 155 rectilinear geographical miles. Bounded on the north by Usui and the Nyanza Lake, to the south-eastwards by Ugala, southwards by Ukimbu, and south-westwards by Uwende, it has a depth of from twenty-five to thirty marches. Native caravans, if lightly laden, can accomp
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CHAP. XIII. AT LENGTH WE SIGHT THE LAKE TANGANYIKA, THE “SEA OF UJIJI.”
CHAP. XIII. AT LENGTH WE SIGHT THE LAKE TANGANYIKA, THE “SEA OF UJIJI.”
The route before us lay through a howling wilderness, once populous and fertile, but now laid waste by the fierce Watuta. Snay bin Amir had warned me that it would be our greatest trial of patience. The march began badly: Mpete, the district on the right bank of the Malagarazi River, is highly malarious, and the mosquitoes feasted right royally upon our life, even during the day-time. We bivouacked under a shady tree, within sight of the ferry, not knowing that upon the woody eminences above the
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CHAP. XIV. WE EXPLORE THE TANGANYIKA LAKE.
CHAP. XIV. WE EXPLORE THE TANGANYIKA LAKE.
My first care after settling in Hamid’s Tembe, was to purify the floor by pastiles of assafœtida, and fumigations of gunpowder; my second was to prepare the roof for the rainy season. Improvement, however, progressed slowly; the “children” of Said bin Salim were too lazy to work; and the Wanyamwezi porters, having expended their hire in slaves, and fearing loss by delay, took the earliest opportunity of deserting. By the aid of a Msawahili artisan, I provided a pair of cartels, with substitutes
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CHAP. XV. THE TANGANYIKA LAKE AND ITS PERIPLUS.
CHAP. XV. THE TANGANYIKA LAKE AND ITS PERIPLUS.
The Tanganyika Lake, though situated in the unexplored centre of Intertropical Africa, and until 1858 unvisited by Europeans, has a traditionary history of its own, extending through more than three centuries. “Accounts of a great sea in the interior of Africa obtained (partially from native travellers) at Congo and Sofala,” reached the Portuguese settlements on both shores of the continent. [6] The details of de Barros (first printed in 1852), whilst affording substantially correct details, suc
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THE NORTHERN KINGDOMS: KARAGWAH, UGANDA, AND UNYORO.
THE NORTHERN KINGDOMS: KARAGWAH, UGANDA, AND UNYORO.
The extensive and hitherto unknown countries described in this chapter, being compact despotisms, resembling those of Ashanti and Dahomey more than the semi-monarchies of Unyamwezi and Urundi, or the barbarous republics of Uvinza and Ujiji, are designated the Northern Kingdoms. It is regrettable that oral information, and not the results of actual investigation, are offered to the reader concerning regions so interesting as the Southern Tanganyika, the Northern Kingdoms, and the provinces south
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CHAP. XVII. THE DOWN-MARCH TO THE COAST.
CHAP. XVII. THE DOWN-MARCH TO THE COAST.
On the 5th September 1858, Musa Mzuri—handsome Moses, as he was called by the Africans—returned with great pomp to Kazeh after his long residence at Karagwah. Some details concerning this merchant, who has played a conspicuous part in the eventful “ peripéties ” of African discovery, may be deemed well placed. About thirty-five years ago, Musa, a Moslem of the Kojah sect, and then a youth, was driven by poverty from his native Surat to follow his eldest brother “Sayyan,” who having sought fortun
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CHAP. XVIII. VILLAGE LIFE IN EAST AFRICA.
CHAP. XVIII. VILLAGE LIFE IN EAST AFRICA.
The assertion may startle the reader’s preconceived opinions concerning the savage state of Central Africa and the wretched condition of the slave races, negroid and negro; but is not less true that the African is in these regions superior in comforts, better dressed, fed, and lodged, and less worked than the unhappy Ryot of British India. His condition, where the slave trade is slack, may, indeed, be compared advantageously with that of the peasantry in some of the richest of European countries
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CHAP. XIX. THE CHARACTER AND RELIGION OF THE EAST AFRICANS; THEIR GOVERNMENT, AND SLAVERY.
CHAP. XIX. THE CHARACTER AND RELIGION OF THE EAST AFRICANS; THEIR GOVERNMENT, AND SLAVERY.
The study of psychology in Eastern Africa is the study of man’s rudimental mind, when, subject to the agency of material nature, he neither progresses nor retrogrades. He would appear rather a degeneracy from the civilised man than a savage rising to the first step, were it not for his apparent incapacity for improvement. He has not the ring of the true metal; there is no rich nature, as in the New Zealander, for education to cultivate. He seems to belong to one of those childish races which, ne
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CONCLUSION.
CONCLUSION.
On the 9th February the Battela and the stores required for our trip arrived at Konduchi from Zanzibar, and the next day saw us rolling down the coast, with a fair fresh breeze, towards classic Kilwa, the Quiloa of De Gama, of Camoens, and of the Portuguese annalists. I shall reserve an account of this most memorable shore for a future work devoted especially to the seaboard of Zanzibar—coast and island:—in the present tale of adventure the details of a cabotage would be out of place. Suffice it
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APPENDIX I. COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.
APPENDIX I. COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.
Commerce has for ages been a necessity to the East African, who cannot be contented without his clothing and his ornaments, which he receives in barter for the superfluity of his country. Against its development, however, serious obstacles have hitherto interposed. On the seaboard and in the island the Banyans, by monopolizing the import traffic, do injury to the internal trade. In the interior the Wasawahili excite, with all the animosity of competition, the barbarians against Arab interlopers,
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APPENDIX II.
APPENDIX II.
“East India House, 13th September, 1856. “Sir,—I am commanded by the Court of Directors of the East India Company to inform you, that, in compliance with the request of the Royal Geographical Society, you are permitted to be absent from your duties as a regimental officer whilst employed with an Expedition, under the patronage of Her Majesty’s Government, to be despatched into Equatorial Africa, for the exploration of that country, for a period not exceeding two years. I am directed to add, that
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