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Among the geographical problems which, during the last half century, have occupied the attention of the scientific world and awakened a spirit of adventure in enterprizing individuals, has been the existence of a large and populous city in the heart of Central Africa. The solution of this problem appeared to be a subject worthy of the solicitude even of Societies and Governments; and various expeditions have been dispatched at their expense to explore the unknown interior of that continent, with
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
Having cherished from my earliest infancy a strong desire to become a traveller, I have always seized with avidity any occasion that could facilitate the means of acquiring knowledge; but, notwithstanding all my efforts to supply the want of a good education, I have not been able to procure more than a scanty store of information. My thorough conviction of the inadequacy of my means frequently grieved me, when thinking of all that I needed for the performance of the task which I had imposed on m
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TRAVELS TO TIMBUCTOO,
TRAVELS TO TIMBUCTOO,
&c. &c....
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Pedestrian journey from St. Louis to Neyreh — Passage to N’ghiez — Manners of the inhabitants — Miraculous stone — Departure — Robbers — Mode of fishing with nets — The steam-vessel — The author’s arrival among the Braknas — Conversation with Mohammed Sidy Moctar, chief marabout to the king — Reception by the king. On Tuesday the 3rd of August 1824, at four in the afternoon, I set out from St. Louis, accompanied by two men and a woman, all three inhabitants of N’pâl, to which village they engage
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
The author is forced to turn physician — Distrust of the Moors — Description of the camp of King Lam Khaté — Schools — Amusement of the women. On the 16th the king was indisposed; he sent for me and inquired if I could tell him of any herb which would ease him. I promised to make an excursion to look for some; and accordingly I ranged the neighbourhood, and found abundance of sweet basil, a plant which grows spontaneously in a rich soil; I gathered also a number of seeds, which I concealed with
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Method of cultivating and using millet — Character of the hassanes or warriors — The balanites ægyptiaca, its fruit, method of extracting oil from it — Quarrel excited by a woman — Manner of protecting oneself from cold in the tents — Method of collecting gum — Marriages of the marabouts, and of the hassanes — Inheritance of property — Method of tanning leather — Dress of the Moors. The millet is reaped at the end of May; at that time the marabouts receive it from their slaves and the hassanes f
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Difficulty in going to market — Oxen stolen by a neighbouring tribe — The Ramadan — Circumcision — The feast of Tabasky — Gum trade with the Europeans — My return to St. Louis. We sojourned upon the shore of lake Aleg till the 20th January. The north winds blew with violence and were very cold; part of the time they lasted, I was kept in my tent by fever. In the course of the month, slaves were sent to a distance with part of the cattle, because the grass diminished around the camp; they only ke
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Disappointments experienced at St. Louis — The author takes up various occupations — He departs once more — Particulars respecting the environs of Kakondy — The Nalous, Landamas, or Lantimas, and Bagos. When I reached St. Louis, I heard, to my great mortification, that Baron Roger had returned to France; I requested, nevertheless, an interview with the governor; which was not granted till several days afterwards. In the mean time, I was indebted to the hospitality of one of my friends; for altho
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Departure of the author on his great expedition — Manners and customs of his travelling companions, and account of the caravans in this part of Africa — The Caura — Mountains of Lantégué — River of Doulinca — Smelting of iron — Rio Pongo — Mountain of Touma — Description of Irnanké and its inhabitants — Telewel — Cataract of Cocouo — Orange trees. The information which I have just been communicating to the reader was acquired in M. Castagnet's absence, and by the help of some excursions that I t
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Popoco — Granite mountains — We cross the Bâ-fing (the principal tributary of the Senegal) near its source — Great cataract — Fouta-Dhialon. — Langoué — Couroufi — Schools — Albinos — Industry of the inhabitants — The traveller obliged to turn physician. The 2nd of May was employed in procuring carriers for our luggage, as those who had come with us from Kakondy would not proceed any further. About three in the afternoon some of our fellow-travellers left us, and amongst the number was my young
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Bridge over the Tankisso — Departure for the Kankan — Description of Fouta-Dhialon — Character, Manners and Customs of the Foulahs — Country of Kankan-Fodéa — Butter-tree — Course of the Dhioliba—Countries of Couranco, Sangaran, and Kissi-kissi — Mandingo marriages — River of Bandiégué — Bagaraya — Saraya — Bacocouda — Warlike dances. On the 24th of May, I went with Ibrahim to a Mandingo who was shortly to set out for the Kankan. My guide strongly recommended me to him, and I determined to avail
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Baléya—Arrival on the banks of the Dhioliba — Courouassa — Sambarala — Bouré, a mountainous country, rich in gold — Crossing the Dhioliba — The river Yendan — Kankan — Description of the town — The market — Gold of Bouré — A religious festival — Ordeal of fire — Critical situation of the traveller — Diseases of the country. The soil of Baléya is an argillaceous sand, compact, but extremely fertile, producing all the necessaries of life in abundance. It is bounded on the west by th
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Further account of Kankan and its environs — Council of elders — State of trade, and civilization — Kissi — Bouré — Trade between Bouré and Bamako, Yamina, Ségo, Sansanding, and Jenné — Working of gold mines — Establishment of Bamako — Passage of the Milo, and several other tributary rivers of the Dhioliba. The season was advancing. It was now the middle of July, and in August it becomes almost impossible to travel, the country being then entirely flooded: I was beginning to be very uneasy, when
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Wassoulo — Manners and customs of the inhabitants — Flourishing state of agricultural industry — Hospitality — Kankary — Sambatikila — Reflections on the sale of slaves — Scarcity — Description of the residence of the almamy — Commerce — Smiths’ work — Bambara villages — Arrival at Timé — Ranges of mountains. Wassoulo is a country inhabited by idolatrous Foulahs, who are herdsmen and agriculturists; they rear a great number of horned cattle, and some sheep, and goats. I have seen among them hors
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Abode at Timé — Weekly market — The traveller falls seriously ill of the scurvy — Is nursed by a negress — Rainy season — The author prevented from joining the caravan departing for Jenné — Fertility of the neighbourhood of Timé — Desperate condition of the traveller — His recovery after four months' illness — Description of a funeral. My guide conducted me to the residence of his brother, who was from home; but a good old negress, who, judging from her wrinkled countenance, must have been sixty
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
Description of Timé and its environs — Character, manners, and customs of the inhabitants — Period of circumcision for males, and excision for females — Manufactures, trade, and agriculture — Indigenous plants — Diseases. The village of Timé is situated at the distance of two days’ journey to the south of Sambatikila, fifteen to the north of Teuté and Cani, and ten to the north of Tangrera. The number of inhabitants is about five or six hundred, consisting partly of Mandingoes, and partly of Bam
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Departure from Timé, January 9th, 1829 — The name of Kong, applied by Mungo Park to a chain of mountains, is a generic term — Use of bells in caravans — Loubakho — Cacoron — Dancing and music of the Bambaras — Sananso — Dhio — The oil palm-tree — Talé — Customs of the inhabitants — Borandou — Grotesque mask — Tangrera. On the 9th of January, after a slight repast of yams, which the old negress prepared for us, we got ready to leave Timé. I made my hostess a handsome present, which she received w
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Cultivation of tobacco — Tangrera — Fara — Bangaro — Itinerant musicians — Débéna — Tiara — Part of the caravan proceeds to Sansanding — Bee-hives — Siracana — The Bagoé, a navigable river — The Lous — Bandiarana — Bridge over the Koua. On the morning of the 20th of January, Karamo-osila came to take leave of me. He made me a present of ten large colats, and again assured me of his sorrow at parting from me. I was also vexed at the separation, for I had every reason to be satisfied with his cond
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Oulasso — Facibrisso — Toumané — Implements of husbandry — Couara — Koraba — Douasso — Kong — Baunan — Garo — Forges — Nibakhasso. About two o’clock in the afternoon, we left the village of Mouriosso, and proceeded in the direction of E. N. E. over a hard soil, composed of grey earth mixed with sand, and studded with ferruginous stones and gravel. It was barren in the extreme. About six in the evening we halted at Oulasso, a village, the huts of which are enclosed and built like those of Mourios
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
Dwarf cotton — Coloni — The Iolas, a Foulah tribe — Bancousso — Carabara — Marshes — Ropes made of the hibiscus — Brick-making — Construction of houses — Kerina — Foudouca — Medina — Lotus bread — Touma-dioman — Marianan — Arrival at Galia on the banks of the Dhioliba, opposite to Jenné. On the 17th of February, at six o’clock in, the morning, we proceeded northward. The caravan, intimidated by the reports of the war with Ségo, and being in the neighbourhood of that town, put itself on the defen
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Crossing the Dhioliba — Abode at Jenné — Description of the town — Manners and customs of the inhabitants — Trade — English and French goods — Buildings — Population — Schools — Religion — Food and clothing — Geographical details — Course of the river — The Massina — Residence of the sherif of Jenné — A dinner — Use of tea, sugar and porcelain — Preparations for my departure for Timbuctoo. On the morning of the 11th of March we prepared to leave Cougalia. We crossed the river in frail canoes, ab
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LIST OF PLATES.
LIST OF PLATES.
LONDON: PRINTED BY O. SCHULZE, 13, POLAND STREET. ( Higher-res ) GENERAL MAP OF THE TRAVELS OF M. CAILLIE TO JENNÉ AND TIMBUCTOO, AND ACROSS THE SAHARA, in 1827, & 1828. Drawn by M. JOMARD Member of the Royal Institute of France 1829...
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
I offer, at length, to the public the narrative of my travels in the interior of Africa, which should have appeared long since; several causes have, however, concurred during the fifteen months that have elapsed since my return to my native soil, to retard its publication till the present time. I have brought home, from the regions I have traversed, only fugitive and very laconic notes, written in haste and trepidation: they would have been inexorable evidences against me, had I been surprised t
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CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
Departure for Timbuctoo on the 13th of March — Description of the banks of the river — Slaves released from their chains — Populous villages — Vessels of from sixty to eighty tons burthen — Branch of the river forming a large island — Mode of building canoes — Villages of Banan — Character of the Mandingoes — Description of Lake Debo — Islands called St. Charles, Henry, and Maria-Theresa. About half past nine o’clock we left the port. We did not waste much time in adieus; my friends saw me on bo
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CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER XX.
Tongom, a village in the country of the Dirimans — Co — Do —Sa, a commercial port — Mercantile flotillas — The Soorgoos or Tooariks, a nomadic and predatory tribe — Baraconga — Lelel — Garfola —Filinsa — Baracondié — Tircy — Liquor made from the kondoo — Alcodia, the Diriman capital — Customs of the inhabitants — Salacoila — Cora — Coratoo — Separation of the river into two branches — Arrival at Cabra, the port of Timbuctoo — Description of the place. On the 3rd of April we took our departure fr
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CHAPTER XXI.
CHAPTER XXI.
Journey from Cabra to Timbuctoo — First view of the city — The Kissoors — The king grants the traveller an audience — Condition of the slaves — Description of the city, its buildings, extent, and commerce — Food and dress of the people — Bousbéhey, a city of the Zawats — Toudeyni — Tribe of Salah — Terror inspired by the Tooariks — Description of that tribe — The Ginbulas — Particulars respecting the fate of Major Laing — Reflexions on the means of penetrating to the centre of Africa. On the 20t
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CHAPTER XXII.
CHAPTER XXII.
Departure from Timbuctoo on the 4th of May, 1828 — Caravanof six hundred camels — Entrance of the desert — Suffocating heat — The caravan falls in with the Tooariks — Manner in which the arabs direct their course in the desert — Aspect of Sahara, like the bed of a sea without water — Details respecting the caravans — The place where Major Laing was assassinated — El-Arawan, a city in the desert; its springs, population, and trade — Information respecting Tawât and Wâlet — Caravan of four hundred
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CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Violence of the east winds — Pillars of sand — Scarcity of water — Deplorable situation of the caravan — Hills of loose sand — Rocks of granite — Wells of Telig — Toudeyni, rich salt mines — Thistle of the desert — Vexations and persecutions of the Moors, their intolerance — Wells of Cramès — Well of Trasas or Trarzas — Trajacant Moors. We continued our route to the north a little west, through a district uniformly arid, interspersed with little sand-hills, in a direction from east to west. The
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CHAPTER XXIV.
CHAPTER XXIV.
Wells of Amoul-Gragim — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment of Sidi-Aly —El-Harib — The Berbers — Tatta — Description of the country of el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it. On the 5th of June, at three o’clock in the morning, we continued to ascen
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CHAPTER XXV.
CHAPTER XXV.
Country of el-Drah — Zawât — el-Hamid — Bounou — Town of Mimcina — Camp of Berbers — Tabelbât — The Tawâts — Wells of Yeneguedel, of Faratissa, of Bohayara — Customs of the Berbers — Wells of Goud-Zenaga, of Zenatyia — Town of el-Yabo — Wells of Chanerou, of Nyela.— Arrival at Tafilet — Town of Ghourland — Market — Ressaut, the residence of a Governor under the emperor of Morocco. On the 12th of July, we set out at five in the morning, after having taken a little camel’s milk, which I bought wit
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CHAPTER XXVI.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Description of Tafilet and its commerce — Flourishing state of agriculture and industry — Miserable condition of the Jews; their habits and customs — Afilé — Gardens — Tanneyara, Marca, M’Dayara, Rahaba — Chains of granite mountains — Small river of Guigo — L’Eyarac, Tamaroc, Kars, Ain-Zeland, L’Eksebi — Very high mountains covered with cork-trees — L’Ouin — Guigo — Town of Soforo — Town of el-Fez, or Fez, the ancient capital of Morocco. The Tafilet is a small district forming, like el-Drah, par
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CHAPTER XXVII.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Description of el-Fez — Markets, monuments, gardens, police — Mequinaz — Inhospitality — Arm of the sea called Sbo — Arbata or Rabat, the ancient Sallee — Visit to the Consular Agent — The traveller avoids the camp of the Emperor of Morocco — Writes to the Vice Consul M. Delaporte — Larache — Arrives at Tangier 7th of September, almost dying, emaciated by want, fatigue, and fever — Generous reception of M. Delaporte — Anxiety of the traveller — Is introduced by night and concealed by the Consul
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL RETROSPECT OF THE PUBLISHED INFORMATION ON THIS SUBJECT PRIOR TO M. CAILLIÉ’S TRAVELS. A powerful interest is attached to travels in central Africa: any attempt, therefore, to explore this part of the world can scarcely fail to excite curiosity, provided, at least, that it makes some addition to the knowledge previously acquired and supplies one of the deficiencies of geographical science; that is to say, if it furnishes authentic documents concerning the respective situations of places,
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
VOCABULARIES COLLECTED BY M. CAILLIÉ. Compared with those of Mungo Park, Bowdich, Jackson, Denham, &c. 1. N. B. These words are in use from Timé to Jenné, as well as in the Western districts. II. Spoken at Timbuctoo, and upon the Banks of the Dhioliba, as far as Djenné. Note.1.— Upon the Mandingo. It appears that the syllable fé is the sign of the preposition upon , in , or with , and that this preposition follows the substantive; examples tafé , on the fire; nefé , with me; sofé , in th
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Followed by Notes on the Fragments of Plants brought over by M. Caillié, on some natural productions of the countries he has traversed, and on several points of geography. In addition to the explanation of the engravings, I will say a few words respecting several fragments of plants collected in the environs of Kakondy (Rio-Nuñez), which botanists have considered either too ill-preserved or too incomplete for engraving. M. Caillié made sketches of some which appeared equally unfit to be committe
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
We shall place at the close of our remarks several papers which the reader will perhaps be well pleased to peruse. In 1824, the Geographical Society published a programme of a premium to be decreed to the first French, or foreign, traveller who should arrive at Timbuctoo by the way of Senegambia. It is known that this programme was distributed throughout Europe and in Africa, and that it powerfully influenced the efforts or the projects of many travellers, and especially the resolution adopted b
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