116 chapters
18 hour read
Selected Chapters
116 chapters
EVERYMAN'S LIBRARY
EVERYMAN'S LIBRARY
664 TRAVEL & TOPOGRAPHY Everyman, I will go with thee, and be thy guide, In thy most need to go by thy side. FRANCES CALDERON DE LA BARCA, born in Edinburgh, 1804, the daughter of William Inglis. After her father's death she settled in America, where she married the Spanish diplomat, Don Angel Calderon de la Barca. She accompanied him on his various appointments to Mexico, Washington, and finally to Madrid, where she was created Marquesa de Calderon de la Barca by Alfonso XII and d
27 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LIFE IN MEXICO INTRODUCTION BY MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS MARQUES DE SAN FRANCISCO
LIFE IN MEXICO INTRODUCTION BY MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS MARQUES DE SAN FRANCISCO
First published 1843...
4 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
In the year 1843, two new books took the American public by storm: one was Prescott's History of the Conquest of Mexico , and the other Life in Mexico by Madame Calderon de la Barca. William Hickling Prescott was already known as an able historian on account of his scholarly Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain which had appeared four years before and elicited praise from all quarters; but his new work outran the former in that the author had succeeded in depicting one of the most stirring e
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
REFERENCES
REFERENCES
History of the Conquest of Mexico with the Life of the Conqueror Hernando Cortes, and a view of the Ancient Mexican Civilization . New York, Harper & Bros., 1843. Life in Mexico, During a Residence of Two Years in That Country , by Madame Calderon de la Barca, with a Preface by W. H. Prescott, author of The History of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 1843. The Attaché in Madrid; or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II , translated from the German, New York, 1856. Prescott Unpublished Le
31 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
GLOSSARY LETTER THE FIRST
GLOSSARY LETTER THE FIRST
Departure of the "Norma"—Last look of New York Bay—Fellow passengers— Contrary Winds—Deceitful Appearances—Sunset in Southern Latitudes—Seas passed over by Columbus—Varied Occupations on Shipboard—Berry Islands— Bahama Banks—Evening in a Tropical Sea—L. E. L.—Pan of Matanzas—Morro Castle—Bay of Havana—Arrival—Handsome House in Havana—Sights and Sounds...
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SECOND
LETTER THE SECOND
Havana Aristocracy—Lucia di Lammermoor—La Rossi and Montresor—Brig-of- war—Countess de V—-a—Dinner at H—-a's—Southerly Winds—View from the Balcony— Quinta of Count V—-a—San Cristobal—Mass at San Felipe—Erard Harp—Dinner at General M—-o's—A Dessert at Havana—Queen of Spain's Birthday—Dinner at the Yntendencia—La Pantanelli—Theatre of Tacon— Railroad—Cure by Lightning—Shops—Ball at the Countess F—-a's Last Visit—Souvenirs...
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRD
LETTER THE THIRD
Departure in the Jason—Spanish Captain and Officers—Life on board a Man- of-War—" Balances "—Fishing—" Le Petit Tambour "—Cocoa-nuts—A Norte —Spanish Proverb—Peak of Orizava—Theory and Practice— Norte Chocolatero —Contrary Winds—Chain of Mountains—Goleta...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FOURTH
LETTER THE FOURTH
Distant View of Vera Cruz—Pilots—Boat from the City—Mutual Salutes— Approach to Vera Cruz—Crowd on the Wharf—House of Don Dionisio V—-o— Guard of Honour—German Piano—Supper—Madonna—Aspect of the City— Sopilotes —Deliberations—General Guadalupe Victoria—Two-headed Eagle— Dilapidated Saint—Harp—Theatre—Doña Innocencia Martinez—Invitation from General Santa Anna...
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTH
LETTER THE FIFTH
Departure from Vera Cruz—Sandhills—Oriental Scene—Manga de Clavo— General Santa Anna—Breakfast—Escort and Diligence—Santa Fe—Puente Nacional—Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward—Country in December—Don Miguel— First Impressions—Fruit—Plan del Rio—German Musicians—Sleeping Captain—Approach to Jalapa—Appearance of the City—Cofre de Perote— Flowers—House and Rock—Last View of Jalapa—Change of Scenery—San Miguel de los Soldados—Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break—Non- arrival of Escort—Yankee Coachman Di
22 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SIXTH
LETTER THE SIXTH
Departure from Puebla—Chirimoyas—Rio Frio—Indian Game—Black Forest— Valley of Mexico—Recollections of Tenochtitlan—Mexican Officer— Reception—Scenery—Variety of Dresses—Cheers—Storm of Rain—Entry to Mexico—Buenavista—House by Daylight—Sights from the Windows—Visits— Mexican Etiquette—Countess C—-a—Flowers in December—Serenade— Patriotic Hymn...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SEVENTH
LETTER THE SEVENTH
Début in Mexico—Cathedral—Temple of the Aztecs—Congregation—Stone of Sacrifices—Palace—Importunate Léperos—Visit to the President—Countess C—-a—Street-cries—Tortilleras— Sartor Resartus...
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE EIGHTH
LETTER THE EIGHTH
Ball in Preparation—Agreeable Family—Fine Voices—Theatre—Smoking- Castle of Chapultepec—Viceroy Galvez—Montezuma's Cypress—Vice-Queen— Valley of Mexico—New Year's Day—Opening of Congress—Visits from the Diplomatic Corps—Poblana Dress—"Función extraordinaria"—Theatre—Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe—Divine Painting—Bishop—Beggars— Mosquitoes Eggs...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE NINTH
LETTER THE NINTH
Visits from Spaniards—Visit from the President—Disquisition—Poblana Dress—Bernardo the Matador—Bull-fight extraordinary—Plaza de Toros— Fireworks—Portrait of C—-n—Fancy Ball—Dress-Costume of the Patronesses—Beauty in Mexico—Doctor's Visit—Cards of faire part — Marquesa de San Roman—Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony—Attempt at Robbery—Murder of a Consul—La Gúera Rodriguez—Dr. Plan—M. de Humboldt —Anecdote—Former Customs...
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TENTH
LETTER THE TENTH
San Fernando—House of Perez de Galvez—A Removal—Size of the Houses—Old Monastery—View by Sunset—Evening Visits—Mexican Etiquette—A Night— view from the Azotea-Tacubaya—Magueys—Making of Pulque—Organos and Nopal—Environs of Mexico—Miracle—Hacienda—View from the Countess C—- a's House—Arzobispado—Anecdote—Comparative View of Beauty—Indians— Rancheritas—Mexican Cordiality—Masses for the Dead—San Agustin—Form of Invitation—Death of a Senator—A Mistake...
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
Calle de Tacuba—The Leap of Alvarado—The "Noche Triste"—Sale of a Curate's Goods—Padre Leon—Leprosy—Pictures—The Annunciation—The Alameda—Paseo de Bucarelli—The Viga—Indians in Canoes—A Murder—A Country Fête—Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino—The Jota Arragonesa—Old Soldiers...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWELFTH
LETTER THE TWELFTH
The Viga during the Carnival—Variety of Equipages—The Millionaires—The Monks—Masked Ball—An Alarming Sight—Medical Students—Dinner at the Prussian Minister's—Rides on Horseback—Indian Love of Flowers—Santa Anita—The Chinampas—Their Origin—Indians in Canoes—Song of "El Palomo"—Fighting—The Great Lakes—The Drain of Huehuetoca—The Great Market of Tlatelolco...
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
Convent of San Joaquin—Mexico in the Morning—Tacuba—Carmelite Prior— Convent Garden—Hacienda of Los Morales—El Olivar—A Huacamaya — Humming-birds—Correspondence—Expected Consecration—Visit to the Mineria—Botanic Garden—Arbol de las Manitas—The Museum—Equestrian Statue—Academy of Painting and Sculpture—Disappointment...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
Palm Sunday—Holy Thursday—Variety of Costumes—San Francisco—Santa Domingo—Santa Teresa—Nuns—Stone Bust—The Academy—Religious Procession—Pilgrimage to the Churches—Santa Clara—Nun's Voice—Orange- trees and Rose-bushes—The Cathedral Illuminated—Our Saviour in Chains— Good Friday—The Great Square towards Evening—Dresses of Men, Women, and Children—Approach of the Host—Judas—Great Procession— Miserere —The Square by Moonlight—A Lonely Walk— Sabado de Gloria —Ball in Contemplation—Weekly Soirées—Embr
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH
Letter from the Archbishop—Visit to the " Encarnación "—Reception— Description—The Novices—Convent Supper—Picturesque Scene—Sonata on the Organ—Attempt at Robbery—Alarms of the Household—Visit to San Agustin— Anonymous Letter—The Virgin de los Remedios —Visit to the Chapel—The Padre—The Image—Anecdote of the Large Pearl—A Mine...
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
Mexico in May—Leave Mexico for Santiago—Coach of Charles X.—Mexican Travelling—General Aspect of the Country—Village of Santa Clara— Robbers' House—Temples of the Sun and Moon—San Juan—Mexican Posada— School-house—Skulls—Hard Fare—Travelling Dress—Sopayuca—Military Administrador—Santiago—Matadors and Picadors—Evenings in the Country— Dances—Mexican Songs—Cempoala—Plaza de Toros—Skill of the Horsemen— Omatusco—Accident—Tulansingo—Beautiful Garden—Mexican Dishes—Fruits— Horses—Games of Forfeits—Ra
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH
Arrival at Tepenacasco—Lake with Wild-ducks—Ruined Hacienda—Sunset on the Plains—Troop of Asses—Ride by Moonlight—Leave Tepenacasco—San Miguel—Description—Thunderstorm—Guasco—Journey to Real del Monte— English Road—Scenery—Village of Real—Count de Regla—Director's House— English Breakfast—Visit to the Mines—Mining Speculations—Grand Scenery —Visit to Regla—The Cascade—The Storm—Loneliness—A Journey in Storm and Darkness—Return to Tepenacasco—Journey to Sopacuya—Narrow Escape— Famous Bull—Return
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH
English Ball—Dresses—Diamonds—Mineria—Arrival of the Pope's Bull— Consecration of the Archbishop—Foreign Ministers—Splendour of the Cathedral—Description of the Ceremony...
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE NINETEENTH
LETTER THE NINETEENTH
Mexican Servants—Anecdotes—Remedies—An unsafe Porter—Galopinas—The Reboso—The Sarape—Women-cooks—Foreign Servants—Characteristics of Mexican Servants—Servants' Wages—Nun of the Santa Teresa—Motives for Taking the Veil...
6 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
The Convent Entry—Dialogue—A Chair in Church—Arrival of the Nun—Dress —José Maria—Crowd—Withdrawal of the Black Curtain—The Taking of the Veil—The Sermon—A Dead Body—Another Victim—Convent of the Encarnación —Attempt at a Hymn—Invitation—Morning Visit—The Nun and her Mother— Banquet—Taking Leave—Ceremony of the Veil-taking—A Beautiful Victim— The Last Look—Presentation to the Bishop—Reflections—Verses...
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
San Agustin—The Gambling Fête—The Beauties of the Village—The Road from Mexico—Entry to San Agustin—The Gambling Houses—San Antonio—The Pedregal—Last Day of the Fête—The Cockpit—The Boxes—The Cock-fight— Decorum—Comparisons—Dinner—Ball at Calvario—House of General Moran— View of the Gambling Tables—The Advocate—Ball at the Plaza de Gallos— Return to Mexico—Reflections—Conversation between two Ministers...
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
Countess C—-a—Gutierrez Estrada—Dinner at General Moran's—Dowager Marquesa—Fête at San Antonio—Approach of the Rainy Season—Diamonds and Plate—Great Ball—Night Traveling—Severe Storm—Chapter of Accidents— Corpus Christ!—Poblana Dress—Book Club—Ball—Humming Bird—Franciscan Friar—Missions to Old and New California—Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries—Present Condition—Convent Gardener...
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD
The President—Yturbide—Visit from the Archbishop—Señor Canedo—General Almonte—Señor Cuevas—Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico—Of Señor Posada—His Life—Mexican Charity—Wax Figures—Anecdote—Valuable Present—Education—Comparison—Schools—Opportunities—Natural Talent— Annual—Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor—Families of the Old School—Morals—Indulgence—Manners—Love of Country—Colleges...
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
Revolution in Mexico—Gomez Farias and General Urrea—The Federalists—The President Imprisoned—Firing—Cannon—First News—Escape—Proclamation of the Government—Cannonading—Count C—-a—Houses Deserted—Countess del V—-e—Proclamation of the Federalists—Circular of the Federalists— Scarcity of Provisions—Bursting of a Shell—Refugees—Dr. Plan—Young Lady Shot—Gomez Farias—Rumours—Address of Gomez Farias—Balls and Bullets—Visit from the ——- Minister—Arrival of Monsieur de ———- Expected Attack—Skirmish—Appea
30 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
Plan of the Federalists—Letter from Farias—Signing of Articles— Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"—Conditions—Orders of General Valencia— Of the Governor—Address of General Valencia—Departure of our Guests—The Cosmopolita —State of the Palace and Streets—Bulletin of the Firing— Interior of Houses—Escape of Families—Conduct of the Troops—Countess del V—-e— Santa Anna—Congress—Anecdote—Discussion in Congress—Leprosy...
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
Visitors—Virgin de los Remedies— Encarnación —Fears of the Nuns—Santa Teresa—Rainy Season—Amusing Scene—" Está a la disposición de V. "— Mexican Sincerity—Texian Vessels—Fine Hair—Schoolmistress—Climate—Its Effects—Nerves— Tours de Force —Anniversary—Speech—Paseo—San Angel— Tacubaya—Army of "The Three Guarantees"—Plan of Yguala—A Murder—Indian Politeness—Drunkenness—Señor Canedo—Revolutions in Mexico—The Penon— The Baths—General ———- —Situation and View—Indian Family—Of the Boiling Springs—Capab
21 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
Fête-day—Friendly Hint—Precautions—General Tranquillity—President in San Agustin—Revisit Museum—Ancient Manuscripts—Sculpture—Bronze Bust, etc.—Freshness after Rain—Ball at the French Minister's—Pamphlet— Gutierrez Estrada—His Character—Concealment— Mexicalsingo —Minister of the Treasury—Archbishop's Permission—Paintings—Mexican Painters—Santa Teresa—Description of the Interior—The Penitences—Tortures— Disciplines, etc.—Supper—Profane Ballads—Monasteries—San Francisco— Padre Prior—Soldiers and F
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
día de Muertos —Leave Mexico— Herraderos —San Cristobal—Tunas—Plaza de Toros—Throwing the Laso —Accidents—Rustic Breakfast—Country Fare— Baked Meat—Indian Market—Buried Bull—Mountain—Solitary Hacienda — Reyes —Mules marked—Return—Queen of Spain's Birthday—Diplomatic Dinner...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH
Virgin of Cavadonga —Santo Domingo—Decorations and Music— Daguerreotype—Weekly Soirées—An Arrival—An Earthquake—Honourable Mr. ——- —Broken Furniture— Dios —Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe—Party to the Desierto — Itzcuintepotzotli —Inn of Guajimalco —Ruined Convent— Its Origin— Dejeune a la Fourchette —Splendid Scenery—Vow to the Virgin—Musical Mass—Tacuba—Ride with the Prior...
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTIETH
LETTER THE THIRTIETH
Christmas-day—Kalends and Mass—Amateur Performances—Solo— Posadas — Wandering of the Holy Family— Nacimiento —Crowded Party—French Cooks— Mexican Cook—State of Household—New Year's Day—Mass—Dirtiness of the Churches, etc.—Comparisons—Private Chapels—English Club—Preparations for Journey...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
Leave Mexico—Cuernavaca— Tierra Caliente — Atlacamulco —Orange Groves —Sugar-cane—Annual Produce—Will of Cortes—Description—Coffee Plantation—Scorpions—List of Venomous Reptiles— Aspansingo —Doubts and Difficulties—A Decision...
7 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
Leave Atlacamulco —Assemble by Starlight—Balmy Atmosphere—Flowers and Trees of the Tropics—The Formidable Barrancas —Breakfast under the Trees—Force of the Sun— Meacatlan —Hospitality—Profitable Estate— Leave Meacatlan—Beautiful Village—Musical Bells—Ride by Moonlight— Sugar Fires—Cocoyotla—Old Gentleman—Supper—Orange-trees and Cocoas— Delicious Water—Sugar Estates— A Scorpion —Set off for the Cave— Morning Ride—Dangerous Path...
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD
Cave of Cacahuamilpa —Superstition—Long-bearded Goat—Portal— Vestibule—Fantastic Forms—Breakfast—Pine Torches—Noble Hall— Stalactites and Stalagmites—Egyptian Pyramids—Double Gallery—Wonderful Formations—Corridor—Frozen Landscape—Amphitheatre—World in Chaos— Skeleton—Wax Lights—Hall of Angels—Return—Distant Light—Indian Alcalde— Cautlamilpas —Rancho—Return to Cocoyotla—Chapel—Meacatlan— Eclipse of the Moon—Benighted Travellers—Indian Village— El Puente — Return to Atlacamulco...
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH
Ride by Starlight—Fear of Robbers—Tropical Wild Flowers—Stout Escort— Hautepec —Hacienda of Cocoyoc —A Fire—Three Thousand Orange-trees— Coffee Mills, etc.—Variety of Tropical Fruits—Prodigality of Nature— Casasano —Celebrated Reservoir—Ride to Santa Clara—A Philosopher—A Scorpion—Leave Santa Clara—Dangerous Barranca — Colon —Agreeable House—Civil Administrador —San Nicolas—Solitude—Franciscan Friar— Rainy Morning—Pink Turban—Arrival at Atlisco —Cypress—Department of Puebla—Volcanoes—Doña Marina
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH
Theatre—Portmanteaus—Visitors—Houses of Puebla—Fine Arts—Paseo—Don N. Ramos Arispe—Bishop—Cotton Factories—Don Esteban Antunano—Bank of Avio —United States Machinery—Accidents—Difficulties—Shipwrecks— Detentions—Wonderful Perseverance—" La Constancia Mejicana " Hospital— Prison—El Carmen—Paintings—Painted Floors—Angels—Cathedral—Gold and Jewels—A Comedy—Bishop's Palace—Want of Masters...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH
Concert—Diligence—Leave Puebla—Escort—View from the Cathedral Towers— Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder—An Alarm—Report of a Skirmish—Rio Frio—Law Concerning Robbers—Their Moderation -Return to Mexico—Carnival Ball—Improvement in Dress...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH
Distinguished Men—Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria— Anecdote—Señor Pedraza—Señor Gutierrez Estrada—Count Cortina—Señor Gorostiza—Don Carlos Bustamante—"Mornings in the Alameda"—Don Andrés Quintana Roo—Don Lucas Alaman—General Moran—General Almonte—Señor Canedo—Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores—Doctor Valentin—Don Francisco Tagle—Eight Revolutions...
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH
New Minister—San Angel—Profitable Pulque Estate—The Village— Surrounding Scenery—The Indians—The Padre—The Climate—Holy Week in the Country—Dramatic Representations—Coyohuacan—The Pharisees—Image of the Saviour—Music and Dresses—Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians— Strange Tradition—Paul the Fifth—Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village—Love of Fireworks—Ferdinand the Seventh—Military Ball— Drapeaux...
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH
Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan—Hernan Cortes—His Last Wishes— Padres Camilas -Old Church—Procession—Representation of the Taking of Christ— Curate's Sermon under the Trees—A Religious Drama—Good Friday—Portable Pulpit—Heat—Booths—Religious Procession—Simon the Cyrenian—Costumes— Curate's Sermon—Second Discourse—Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate— Descent from the Cross—Procession of the Angels—Funeral Hymn—The Pesame to the Virgin—Sermon—"Sweet Kitty Clover"—Music in Mexico— Anecdote...
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTIETH
LETTER THE FORTIETH
Balloon—San Bartolo—Indian Women—A Beauty—Different Castes—Indians— Their Character, etc.—Those of Noble Race—Ball at the French Minister's — Abecilla —Danger of Walking Unattended—Shooting Party—A Murder— Robbery of a Farmhouse—Discomfited Robber Captain—The " Zambos "— Letters and Visitors—Country Life in Mexico...
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST
Gambling—Fête at San Agustin—Breakfast at San Antonio—Report—Cock- fight—Ladies—Private Gambling—A Vaca —The Calvario —Bonnets— Dinner—Evening Ball—Mingling of Classes—Copper Tables—Dresses and Decorations—Indian Bankers, Male and Female—Decorum—Habit—Holders of Banks—Female Gambler—Robbery—Anecdote—Bet— Casa de Moneda —Leave San Angel—Celebration—Address—Cross and Diploma—Reply—Presentation of a Sword—Discourses and Addresses—Reflections...
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND
Italian Opera—Artists, Male and Female—Prima Donna—Lucia di Lammermoor —Some Disappointment—Second Representation—Improvement—Romeo and Giulietta—La Ricci—La Señora Cesari—The Mint—False Coining—Repetition of Lucia—Procession by Night—A Spanish Beauty—Discriminating Audience— A little too simple —Gold Embroidery—Santiago—Pilgrims—Old Indian Custom—Soiree—Mexico by Moonlight—Mysterious Figure—Archbishop— Viceroy...
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD
Revillagigedo—The False Merchant and the Lady—The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces—Horrible Murder—Details— Oath—Country Family—The Spot of Blood—The Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son—Arrest of the Three —Confession—Execution—The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge—Paving of the Streets—Severity to the Monks—Solitary Damsel—Box on the Ear—Pension—Morning Concert—New Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"—Traditions—A Farewell Audience—Inscription on a Tomb...
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
Agitation—Storm—Revolution—Manifesto—Resembling a Game of Chess— Position of the Pieces—Appearance of the City—Firing—State of Parties— Comparisons—" Comicios "—The People—Congress—Santa Anna—Amnesty Offered—Roaring of Cannon—Proclamation—Time to Look at Home —The Will of the Nation—Different Feelings—Judge's House Destroyed—The Mint in Requisition—Preparations—Cannonading—" Los Enanos "...
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH
Leave Mexico—Travelling Equipage—San Xavier—Fine Hacienda— Millionaires—Well-educated Ladies—Garden, etc.—Tlanapantla—Indian Hut —Mrs. Ward—Doña Margarita—The Pronunciamiento —False Step—Santa Anna in Puebla—Neutrality—General Paredes—President in Tlanapantla—Tired Troops—Their March—Their Return—Curate's House—Murder—General Paredes in the Lecheria—President in Tlanapantla—A Meeting—Return of the President and his Troops—General Paredes and his Men—Santa Anna in Tacubaya—A Junction—President in
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH
Santa Monica—Solidity—Old Paintings—Anachronism—Babies and Nurses from the Cuna—Society—Funds-Plan—Indian Nurses—Carmelite Convent—Midnight Warning—Old Villages and Churches—Indian Bath—San Mateo—The Lecheria— Fertility— Molino Viego —Dulness—Religious Exercises—Return to Mexico —Mexican Hotel—New Generals—Disturbances—General Bustamante— Inconvenience—Abuses in the Name of Liberty—Verses—Independence celebrated...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH
Opera—Santa Anna and his Suite—His Appearance— Belisario —Solitary " Viva !"—Brilliant House—Military Dictatorship— San Juan de Dios — Hospital de Jesús — Cuna —Old Woman and Baby—Different Apartments— Acordada—Junta—Female Prisoners—Chief Crime— Travaux Forces — Children—Male Prisoners— Forçats —Soldiers Gambling—Chapel— Confessional—Insane Hospital—Frenchmen—Different Kinds of Insanity— Kitchen—Dinner—Insane Monk—"Black Chamber"—Soldiers—College—Santa Anna's Leg—Projects—All Saints—Señora P—-a
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH
Leave Mexico—Diligence—Indian Padre—Brandy-drinking Female—Bad Roads— Beautiful View—Escort—Good Breakfast—Crosses—Robber's Head—Select Party—Lerma—Valley of Toluca—Hacienda—Toluca—Count de B—— and Mr. W———The Commandant—Gay Supper—Colonel Y———Day at Toluca—Journey to La Gabia —Heat and Hunger—Pleasant Quarters—Princely Estate—El Pilar—A Zorillo—A Wolf—Long Journey—Tortillas—Count de B———State of Michoacán—Forest Scenery— Trojes of Angangueo —Comfort...
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH
Leave Trojes —Beautiful Territory—Tarrascan Indians—Taximaroa— Distressed Condition—An Improvement—Cold Morning—Querendaro—Fine Breed of Horses—San Bartolo—Produce—Country Proprietors— Colear —Ride to Morelia—Wild Ducks—Sunset—Cathedral Bell—Cuincho—Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo—Warm Baths—Handsome Girls—Starving Travellers— Lost Mules—Lancers—Night on a Heap of Straw—Mules Found—Tzintzontzan— King Calsonsi—Pascuaro—Kind Reception—Bishop—Robbers—Curu—Night in a Barn—Mountain—Uruapa—Enc
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
Indian Dresses—Saints—Music—Union of Tropical and European Vegetation— Old Customs—Falls of the Sararaqui—Silkworms—Indian Painting—Beautiful Heroine—Leave Uruapa—Tziracuaratiro—Talkative Indian—Alcalde's House— Pascuaro—Old Church—Mosaic Work—The Lake—The Cave—Fried Fish—Rich Indians—Convent—Cuincho—Darkness—Morelia—Alameda—Cathedral—Silver —Waxworks—College—Wonderful Fleas...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
San Bartolo—Mass—Markets—Rancheros—San Andrés—Insanity—Rancho—House of Don Carlos Heimburger—Wild Scenery—German Songs—Las Millas—Leave taking—Storm—Rainbow—El Pilar—La Gabia—Toluca—News—Copper Pronunciamiento —Return to Mexico—General Moran—Funeral Obsequies—New Theatre— Cock's Mass —Santa Clara—Santa Fe Prisoners—New Year...
8 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
Last Day in Mexico—Theatre—Santa Anna—French Minister's—Parting— Diligence—Last Look of Mexico—Fatigue—Robbers—Escort—Second Impressions—Baths at Jalapa—Vera Cruz—Some Account of San Juan de Ulua —Siege of 1825—Siege of 1838—General Bustamante—Theatre—Of the North Winds...
9 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
Sail in the Tyrian—Norther off Tampico—The Bar—The River Panuco—The Pilot—The Shore—Alligator—" Paso de Doña Cecilia "—Tampico—Spanish Consul's House—Society—Navigation—Banks of the Panuco—Extraordinary Inoculation—The " Glorieta "—Leave Tampico—Furious Norther—Voyage— Arrival at Havana...
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
Havana—The Carnival—The Elssler—La Angosta— Ingenio of Count V—-a— General Bustamante—Lord Morpeth—Leave Havana—Voyage in the Medway—Old Friends—Return to the United States...
7 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PREFACE
PREFACE
The present work is the result of observations made during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, really , not intended originally—however incredible the assertion—for publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and am
49 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
Administrador -Agent. Alameda -Public walk with trees. Aquador -Water-carrier. Alacran -Scorpion. Anquera -Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which covers the back of the horses. Arriero -Muleteer. Arroba -Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. Azotea -The flat roof of a house. Barranca -Ravine. Botica -Apothecary's shop. Calle -Street. Cargadores -Men who carry loads. Chinguirito -Spirit made from sugar-cane. Chile -Hot peppers. Compadre and Comadre -Godfather and Godmothe
2 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PACKET SHIP "NORMA,"
PACKET SHIP "NORMA,"
Oct. 27th, 1839. This morning, at ten o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat Hercules, destined to convey us to our packet with its musical name. The day was foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even by an occasional smile from the sun. All prognosticated that the Norma would not sail to-day, but "where there's a will," etc. Several of our friends accompanied us to the wharf; the Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr. ——-, who tried hard to look sentimental, and eve
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SECOND
LETTER THE SECOND
Havana Aristocracy—"Lucia de Lammermoor"—La Rossi and Montresor—Brig- of-war—Countess de V—-a—Dinner at H—-a's—Southerly Winds—View from the Balcony— Quinta of Count V—-a—San Cristobal—Mass at San Felipe— Erard Harp—Dinner at General M—-o's—A Dessert at Havana—Queen of Spain's Birthday—Dinner at the Yntendencia—La Pantanelli—Theatre of Tacon—Railroad—Cure by Lightning—Shops—Ball at the Countess F—-a's— Last Visit—Souvenirs. 15th.—We expected hospitality and a good reception, but certainly all ou
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRD
LETTER THE THIRD
Departure in the Jason—Spanish Captain and Officers—Life on board a Man-of-War—" Balances "—Fishing—" Le Petit Tambour "—Cocoa-nuts—A Norte —Spanish Proverb—Peak of Orizava—Theory and Practice— Norte Chocolatero —Contrary Winds—Chain of Mountains—Goleta. JASON, 24th November. This morning, at six o'clock, we breakfasted, together with Captain Estrada, the commander of the Jason, at the Casa H—-a ; and the wind being fair, repaired shortly after in volantes to the wharf, accompanied by our hospit
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FOURTH
LETTER THE FOURTH
Distant View of Vera Cruz—Pilots—Boat from the City—Mutual Salutes—Approach to Vera Cruz—Crowd on the Wharf—House of Dionisio V—-o—Guard of Honour—German Piano—Supper—Madonna—Aspect of the City— Sopilotes —Deliberations—General Guadalupe Victoria—Two-headed Eagle—Dilapidated Saint—Harp—Theatre—Donna Inocencia Martinez—Invitation from General Santa Anna. VERA CRUZ, 18th. This morning, the sanguine hoped, and the desponding feared, for the wind, though inclined to la brisa , seemed unlikely to pro
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTH
LETTER THE FIFTH
Departure from Vera Cruz—Sandhills—Oriental Scene—Manga de Clavo—General Santa Anna—Breakfast—Escort and Diligence—Santa Fe—Puente National—Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward—Country in December—Don Miguel—First Impressions—Fruit—Plan del Rio—German Musicians—Sleeping Captain—Approach to Jalapa—Appearance of the City—Cofre de Perote-Flowers—House and Rock—Last View of Jalapa—Change of Scenery—San Miguel de los Soldados—Perote—Striking Scene before Daybreak—Non-arrival of Escort—Yankee Coachman—Dispute
47 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
TRANSLATION.
TRANSLATION.
Patriotic Hymn which various Spaniards, resident in Mexico, dedicate to his Excellency Señor Don A—— C—— de la B——, Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary from H. C. M. to the Republic, to celebrate his arrival in this Capital. The music by Señor Don J. N. De Retes; the words by Señor Don Juan Covo. Let us triumph, my friends, Let us triumph at length, And let the country of the Cid Breathe freely again. The august Christina, The ornament of Spain, Imprinted the m
2 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SEVENTH
LETTER THE SEVENTH
Debut in Mexico—Cathedral—Temple of the Aztecs—Congregation—Stone of Sacrifices—Palace—Importunate Léperos—Visit to the President—Countess C—-a—Street-cries—Tortilleras— Sartor Resartus . I made my début in Mexico by going to mass in the cathedral. We drove through the Alameda, near which we live, and admired its noble trees, flowers, and fountains, all sparkling in the sun. We met but few carriages there, an occasional gentleman on horseback, and a few solitary-looking people resting on the sto
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE EIGHTH
LETTER THE EIGHTH
Ball in Preparation—Agreeable Family—Fine Voices—Theatre—Smoking—Castle of Chapultepec—Viceroy Galvez—Montezuma's Cypress—Vice-Queen—Valley of Mexico—New Year's Day—Opening of Congress—Visits from the Diplomatic Corps—Poblana Dress—"Function extraordinaria"—Theatre—Visit to the Cathedral of Guadalupe—Divine Painting—Bishop-Beggars—Mosquitoes' Eggs. A great ball is to be given on the 8th of January, in the theatre, for the benefit of the poor, which is to be under the patronage of the most distin
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE NINTH
LETTER THE NINTH
Visits from Spaniards—Visit from the President—Disquisition—Poblana Dress—Bernardo the Matador—Bull-fight extraordinary—Plaza de Toros—Fireworks—Portrait of C—-n—Fancy Ball—Dress—Costume of the Patronesses—Beauty in Mexico—Doctor's Visit—Cards of faire part —Marquesa de San Roman—Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony—Attempt at Robbery—Murder of a Consul—La Guera Rodriguez—Dr. Plan—M. de Humboldt—Anecdote—Former Customs. 5th January. Yesterday (Sunday), a great day here for visiting after mass is
25 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TENTH
LETTER THE TENTH
San Fernando—House of Perez de Galvez—A Removal—Size of the Houses—Old Monastery—View by Sunset—Evening Visits—Mexican Etiquette—A Night-view from the Azotea—Tacubaya—Magueys—Making of Pulque—Organos and Nopal—Environs of Mexico—Miracle—Hacienda—View from the Countess C—-a's House—Arzobispado—Anecdote—Comparative View of Beauty—Indians Rancheritas—Mexican Cordiality—Masses for the Dead—San Augustin—Form of Invitation—Death of a Senator—A Mistake. SAN FERNANDO, 25th February. We have been engaged
23 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
Calle de Tacuba—The Leap of Alvarado—The "Noche Triste"—Sale of a Curate's Goods—Padre Leon—Leprosy—Pictures—The Annunciation—The Alameda—Paseo de Bucarelli—The Viga—Indians in Canoes—A Murder—A Country Fête—Visit to the Colegio Vizcaino—The Jota Arragonesa—Old Soldiers. The street in which we live forms part of the Calle de Tacuba, the ancient Tlacopan, one of the great causeways by which ancient Mexico communicated with the continent. The other two were Tepeyayac (now Guadalupe) and Iztapalapa
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWELFTH
LETTER THE TWELFTH
The Viga during the Carnival—Variety of Equipages—The Millionaires—The Monks—Masked Ball—An Alarming Sight—Medical Students—Dinner at the Prussian Minister's—Rides on Horseback—Indian Love of Flowers—Santa Anita—The Chinampas—Their Origin—Indians in Canoes—Song of "El Palomo" —Fighting—The Great Lakes—The Drain of Huehuetoca—The great Market of Tlatelolco. 16th March. We are now in Lent in the midst of prayer, church-going, and fasting. The carnival was not very gay, with the exception of a few
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
Convent of San Joaquin—Mexico in the Morning—Tacuba—Carmelite Prior— Convent Garden—Hacienda of Los Morales—El Olivar—A Huacamaya — Humming-birds—Correspondence—Expected Consecration—Visit to the Mineria—Botanic Garden—Arbol de las Manilas—The Museum—Equestrian Statue—Academy of Painting and Sculpture—Disappointment. Early this morning we rode to the convent of San Joaquin, belonging to friars of the Carmelite order, passing through Tacuba, the ancient Tlacopan, once the capital of a small kingd
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
Palm Sunday—Holy Thursday—Variety of Costumes—San Francisco—Santo Domingo—Santa Teresa—Nuns—Stone Bust—The Academy—Religious Procession—Pilgrimage to the Churches—Santa Clara—Nun's Voice—Orange-trees and Rose-bushes—The Cathedral Illuminated—Our Saviour in Chains—Good Friday—The great Square towards Evening—Dresses of Men, Women, and Children—Approach of the Host—Judas—Great Procession— Miserere —The Square by Moonlight—A Lonely Walk— Sábado de Gloria —Ball in Contemplation—Weekly Soirées—Embroi
25 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
MANUEL POSADA.
MANUEL POSADA.
Accordingly, on Sunday afternoon, we drove to the Encarnación , the most splendid and richest convent in Mexico, excepting perhaps la Concepción. If it were in any other country, I might mention the surpassing beauty of the evening, but as except in the rainy season, which has not yet begun, the evenings are always beautiful, the weather leaves no room for description. The sky always blue, the air always soft, the flowers always blossoming, the birds always singing; Thomson never could have writ
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
Mexico in May—Leave Mexico for Santiago—Coach of Charles X—Mexican Travelling—General Aspect of the Country—Village of Santa Clara— Robbers' House—Temples of the Sun and Moon—San Juan—Mexican Posada— School-house—Skulls—Hard Fare—Travelling Dress—Sopayuca—Military Administrador—Santiago—Matadors and Picadors—Evenings in the Country- Dances—Mexican Songs—Cempoala—Plaza de Toros—Skill of the Horsemen— Omatusco—Accident—Tulansingo—Beautiful Garden—Mexican Dishes—Fruits— Horses—Games of Forfeits—Ran
32 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
TEPENACASCO.
TEPENACASCO.
This is a fine wild scene. The house stands entirely alone; not a tree near it. Great mountains rise behind it, and in every other direction, as far as the eye can reach, are vast plains, over which the wind comes whistling fresh and free, with nothing to impede its triumphant progress. In front of the house is a clear sheet of water, a great deep square basin for collecting the rain. These jagueys , as they are called, are very common in Mexico, where there are few rivers, and where the use of
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
TEPENACASCO.
TEPENACASCO.
Rose in Guasco at tour o'clock; dressed by candle-light, took chocolate, and set off for Real del Monte. After we had travelled a few leagues, tolerably cold, we rejoiced when the sun rose, and dispelling the mist, threw his cheerful light over mountain and wood. The trees looked green and refreshing after their last night's bath; the very rocks were sparkling with silver. The morning was perfectly brillia'nt, and every leaf and flower was glittering with the rain-drops not yet dried. The carria
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH
English Ball—Dresses—Diamonds—Mineria—Arrival of the Pope's Bull—Consecration of the Archbishop—Foreign Ministers—Splendour of the Cathedral—Description of the Ceremony. 25th. The English ball at the Mineria has passed off with great éclat . Nothing could be more splendid than the general effect of this noble building, brilliantly illuminated and filled with a well-dressed crowd. The president and corps diplomatique were in full uniform, and the display of diamonds was extraordinary. We ladies o
10 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE NINETEENTH
LETTER THE NINETEENTH
Mexican Servants—Anecdotes—Remedies—An unsafe Porter—Galopinas—The Reboso—The Sarape—Women Cooks—Foreign Servants—Characteristics of Mexican Servants—Servants' Wages—Nun of the Santa Teresa—Motives for taking the Veil. June 3rd. You ask me to tell you how I find the Mexican servants. Hitherto I had avoided the ungrateful theme, from very weariness of it. The badness of the servants, is an unfailing source of complaint even amongst Mexicans; much more so amongst foreigners, especially on their fi
14 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
The Convent Entry—Díalogue—A Chair in Church—Arrival of the Nun—Dress—José María—Crowd—Withdrawal of the Black Curtain—The Taking of the Veil—The Sermon—A Dead Body—Another Victim—Convent of the Encarnación—Attempt at a Hymn—Invitation—Morning Visit—The Nun and her Mother—Banquet—Taking Leave—Ceremony of the Veil-taking—A Beautiful Victim—The Last Look—Presentation to the Bishop—Reflections—Verses. 4th June. Some days ago, having received a message from my nun that a girl was about to take the v
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
San Agustin—The Gambling Fête—The Beauties of the Village—The Road from Mexico—Entry to San Agustin—The Gambling Houses—San Antonio—The Pedregal—Last Day of the Fête—The Cock-pit—The Boxes—The Cock-fight— Decorum—Comparisons—Dinner—Ball at Calvario—House of General Moran— View of the Gambling-tables—The Advocate—Ball at the Plaza de Gallos— Return to Mexico—Reflections—Conversation between two Ministers. 15th June. Since my last letter we have been at San Agustin de las Cuevas, which, when I las
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
Countess C—-a—Gutierrez Estrada—Dinner at General Moran's—Dowager Marquesa—Fête at San Antonio—Approach of the Rainy Season—Diamonds and Plate—Great Ball—Night Travelling—Severe Storm—Chapter of Accidents— Corpus Christi—Poblana Dress—Book-club—Ball—Humming-bird—Franciscan Friar—Missions to Old and New California—Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries—Present Condition—Convent Gardener. 17th June. As we dine nearly every Sunday with the Countess de la C—-a at Tacubay, where she keeps open house
16 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD
The President—Yturbide—Visit from the Archbishop—Señor Canedo —General Almonte—Señor Cuevas—Situation of an Archbishop in Mexico—Of Señor Posada—His Life—Mexican Charity—Wax Figures—Anecdote—Valuable Present—Education—Comparison—Schools—Opportunities—Natural Talent—Annual—Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the Editor—Families of the Old School—Morals—Indulgence—Manners—Love of Country—Colleges. 5th July. Yesterday morning we had a visit from the president, with two of his officers. He was ridi
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
Revolution in Mexico—Gomez Farias and General Urrea—The Federalists—The President Imprisoned—Firing—Cannon—First News—Escape—Proclamation of the Government—Cannonading—Count C—-a—Houses deserted—Countess del V—-e—Proclamation of the Federalists—Circular of the Federalists— Scarcity of Provisions—Bursting of a Shell—Refugees—Dr. Plan—Young Lady Shot—Gomez Farias—Rumours—Address of Gomez Farias—Balls and Bullets—Visit from the ——- Minister—Arrival of Monsieur de ———- Expected Attack—Skirmish—Appea
39 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
Plan of the Federalists—Letter from Farias—Signing of Articles—Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"—Conditions—Orders of General Valencia—Of the Governor—Address of General Valencia—Departure of our Guests—The Cosmopolite —State of the Palace and Streets—Bulletin of the Firing—Interior of Houses—Escape of Families—Conduct of the Troops—Countess del V—-e—Santa Anna—Congress—Anecdote—Discussion in Congress—Leprosy. 28th July. To-day is published the plan which was formed by the federalists for the "po
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
Visitors—Virgen de los Remedios— Encarnación —Fears of the Nuns—Santa Teresa—Rainy Season—Amusing Scene—" Esta a la Disposocicion de V. " — Mexican Sincerity—Texian Vessels—Fine Hair—Schoolmistress—Climate—Its Effects—Nerves— Tours de Force —Anniversary—Speech—Paseo—San Angelo- -Tacubaya—Army of "The Three Guarantees"—Plan of Yguala—A Murder— Indian Politeness—Drunkeness—Señor Canedo—Revolutions in Mexico—The Penon—The Baths—General——Situation and View—Indian Family—Of the Boiling Springs—Capabi
22 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
Fête-day—Friendly Hint—Precautions—General Tranquillity—President in San Agustin—Revisit Museum—Ancient Manuscripts—Sculpture—Bronze Bust, etc.—Freshness after Rain—Ball at the French Minister's—Pamphlet— Gutierrez Estrada—His Character—Concealment— Mexicalsingo —Minister of the Treasury—Archbishop's Permission—Paintings—Mexican Painters—Santa Teresa—Description of the Interior—The Penitences—Tortures— Disciplines, etc.—Supper—Profane Ballads—Monasteries—San Francisco— Padre Prior —Soldiers and
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
Día de Muertos —Leave Mexico— Herraderos —San Cristobal—Tunas—Plaza de Toros—Throwing the Laso —Accidents—Rustic Breakfast—Country Fare—Baked Meat—Indian Market—Buried Bull—Mountain—Solitary Hacienda — Reyes —Mules marked—Return—Queen of Spain's Birthday—Diplomatic Dinner. Santiago, November 3rd. Yesterday, the second of November, a day which for eight centuries has been set apart in the Catholic Church for commemorating the dead, the day emphatically known as the " Día de Muertos ," the churche
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
21ST.
21ST.
We received a few days since an invitation to attend the sumptuous mass, annually given by the Asturian Brotherhood, in honour of the Virgin of Cavadonga, in the church of Santo Domingo. The invitation being printed on blue satin, with gold lace and tassels, seems worthy of a place in a box of wax figures, which will be sent by the next packet. The church was superbly decorated, and only well-dressed people were admitted. C—-n was carried off to a post of honour near the altar, and a padre gave
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTIETH
LETTER THE THIRTIETH
Christmas-day—Kalends and Mass—Amateur Performances—Solo— Posadas —Wandering of the Holy Family— Nacimiento —Crowded Party—French Cooks—Mexican Cook—State of Household—New Year's Day—Mass—Dirtiness of the Churches, etc.—Comparisons—Private Chapels—English Club—Preparations for Journey. 25th. CHRISTMAS-DAY! One year this evening since we made our entry into Mexico. What a different aspect everything has assumed to us in one year! Then every object was new, every face that of a stranger. Now we ar
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
Leave Mexico—Cuernavaca— Tierra Caliente — Atlacamulco —Orange Groves—Sugar-cane—Annual Produce—Will of Cortes—Description—Coffee Plantation—Scorpions—List of Venemous Reptiles— Acapansingo —Doubts and Difficulties—A Decision. ATLACAMULCO, February 2nd. A quiet day in a hospitable country-house, too sunny to go out, and nothing else to do, are temptations sufficient to induce me to sit down and give you an account of our proceedings during these last two days. Yesterday, the first of February, a
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
Leave Atlacamulco —Assemble by Starlight—Balmy Atmosphere—Flowers and Trees of the Tropics—The Formidable Barrancas — Breakfast under the Trees —Force of the Sun— Meacatlan —Hospitality—Profitable Estate—Leave Meacatlan—Beautiful Village—Musical Bells—Ride by Moonlight—Sugar Fires—Cocoyotla— Old Gentleman —Supper—Orange-trees and Cocoas—Delicious Water—Sugar Estates—A Scorpion—Set off for the Cave—Morning Ride—Dangerous Path Cocoyotla, 5th. On the morning of the third of February we rose about h
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD
Cave of Cacahuamilpa —Superstition—Long-bearded Goat—Portal— Vestibule—Fantastic Forms—Breakfast—Pine Torches—Noble Hall— Stalactites and Stalagmites—Egyptian Pyramids—Double Gallery—Wonderful Formations—Corridor—Frozen Landscape—Amphitheatre—World in Chaos— Skeleton—Wax Lights—Hall of Angels—Return—Distant Light—Indian Alcalde— Cautlamilpas —Rancho—Return to Cocoyotla—Chapel—Meacatlan— Eclipse of the Moon—Benighted Travellers—Indian Village— El Puente — Return to Atlacamulco . ATLACAMULCO, 7th.
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH
Ride by Starlight—Fear of Robbers—Tropical Wild Flowers—Stout Escort— Hautepec —Hacienda of Cocoyoc —A Fire—Three Thousand Orange-trees— Coffee Mills, etc.—Variety of Tropical Fruits—Prodigality of Nature— Casasano —Celebrated Reservoir—Ride to Santa Clara—A Philosopher—A Scorpion—Leave Santa Clara—Dangerous Barranca — Colon —Agreeable House—Civil Administrador —San Nicolas—Solitude—Franciscan Friar— Rainy Morning—Pink Turban—Arrival at Atlisco —Cypress—Department of Puebla—Volcanoes—Doña Marina
20 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PUEBLA.
PUEBLA.
You will be surprised when I tell you that, notwithstanding our fatigue, we went to the theatre the evening we arrived, and sat through a long and tragical performance, in the box of Don A—-o H—-o, one of the richest citizens of Puebla, who, hearing of our arrival, instantly came to invite us to his house, where he assured us rooms were prepared for our reception. But being no longer in savage parts, where it is necessary to throw yourself on the hospitality of strangers or to sleep in the open
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH
Concert—Diligence—Leave Puebla—Escort—View from the Cathedral Towers—Black Forest—History of the Crosses—Tales of Murder—An Alarm—Report of a Skirmish—Rio Frío—Law concerning Robbers—Their Moderation —Return to Mexico—Carnival Ball—Improvement in Dress. MEXICO, 24th. We went to the concert with our friends, the H—-os. The music was better than the instruments, and the Señora Cesari looked handsome, as she always does, besides being beautifully dressed in white, with Paris wreaths. We took leave
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH
Distinguished Men-Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria—Anecdote—Señor Pedraza—Señor Gutierrez Estrada—Count Cortina—Señor Gorostiza—Don Carlos Bustamante—"Mornings in the Alameda"—Don Andrés Quintana Roo—Don Lucas Alaman—General Moran—General Almonte—Señor Canedo—Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores—Doctor Valentin—Don Francisco Tagle—Eight Revolutions. 27th. H—— in his last letter asks what distinguished men we have in Mexico? and with a tone of doubt as to their being very numerous.
11 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH
New Minister—San Angel—Profitable Pulque Estate—The Village—Surrounding Scenery—The Indians—The Padre—The Climate—Holy Week in the Country—Dramatic Representations—Coyohuacan—The Pharisees—Image of the Saviour—Music and Dresses—Procession—Catholicism amongst the Indians—Strange Tradition—Paul the Fifth—Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village—Love of Fireworks—Ferdinand the Seventh—Military Ball— Drapeaux . SAN ANGEL, March 30th. It is a long while since I last wrote, but this week h
13 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH
Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan—Hernan Cortes—His Last Wishes— Padres Camilos —Old Church—Procession—Representation of the taking of Christ—Curate's Sermon under the Trees—A Religious Drama—Good Friday—Portable Pulpit—Heat—Booths—Religious Procession—Simon the Cyrenian—Coutumes—Curate's Sermon—Second Discourse—Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate—Descent from the Cross—Procession of the Angels—Funeral Hymn—The Pesame to the Virgin—Sermon—"Sweet Kitty Clover"—Music in Mexico—Anecdote. On Holy Thursd
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTIETH
LETTER THE FORTIETH
Balloon—San Bartolo—Indian Women—A Beauty—Different Castes—Indians—Their Character, etc.—Those of Noble Race—Ball at the French Minister's- Abecilta —Danger of Walking Unattended—Shooting Party—A Murder—Robbery of a Farmhouse—Discomfited Robber Captain—The " Zambos "—Letters and Visitors—Country Life in Mexico. 23rd April. We went to Mexico yesterday to see a balloon ascend from the Plaza de Toros, with an aëronaut and his daughter; French people, I believe. The scene was really beautiful. The p
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST
Gambling—Fête at San Agustin—Breakfast at San Antonio—Report—Cock- fight—Ladies—Private Gambling—A Vaca —The Calvario —Bonnets— Dinner—Evening Ball—Mingling of Classes—Copper Tables—Dresses and Decorations—Indian Bankers, Male and Female—Decorum-Habit—Holders of Banks—Female Gambler—Robbery—Anecdote—Bet— Casa de Moneda —Leave San Angel—Celebration—Address—Cross and Diploma—Reply—Presentation of a Sword—Discourses and Addresses—Reflections. 10th June. One year since I last wrote of San Agustin! A
26 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND
Italian Opera—Artists, Male and Female—Prima Donna—Lucia de Lammermoor—Some Disappointment—Second Representation—Improvement—Romeo and Giulietta—La Ricci—La Señora Cesari—The Mint—False Coining—Repetition of Lucia—Procession by Night—A Spanish Beauty—Discriminating Audience—A little Too Simple—Gold Embroidery—Santiago—Pilgrims—Old Indian Custom—Soiree—Mexico by Moonlight—Mysterious Figure—Archbishop—Viceroy. 13th July. We little expected to be still here at the opening of the new Italian opera,
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD
Revillagigedo—The False Merchant and the Lady—The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces—Horrible Murder—Details— Oath—Country Family—The Spot of Blood—The Mother unknowingly denounces her Son—Arrest of the Three —Confession—Execution—The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge—Paving of the Streets—Severity to the Monks—Solitary Damsel —Box on the Ear—Pension—Morning Concert—New Minister—"Street of the Sad Indian"—Traditions—A Farewell Audience—Inscription on a Tomb. August 3rd. A l
23 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
Agitation—Storm—Revolution—Manifesto—Resembling a Game of Chess—Position of the Pieces—Appearance of the City—Firing—State of Parties—Comparisons—" Comicios "—The People—Congress—Santa Anna—Amnesty offered—Roaring of Cannon—Proclamation—Time to look at home —The Will of the Nation—Different Feelings—Judge's House destroyed—The Mint in Requisition—Preparations—Cannonading—" Los Enanos ." 31st. This afternoon the clouds, gathered together in gloomy masses, announced a thunderstorm, and at the same
15 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH
Leave Mexico-Travelling Equipage—San Xavier—Fine Hacienda—Millionaires—Well-educated Ladies—Garden, etc.—Tlanapantla—Indian Hut—Mrs. Ward—Doña Margarita—The Pronunciamiento —False Step—Santa Anna in Puebla—Neutrality—General Paredes—President in Tlanapantla—Tired Troops—Their March—Their Return—Curate's House—Murder—General Paredes in the Lecheria—President in Tlanapantla—A Meeting—Return of the President and his Troops—General Paredes and his Men—Santa Anna in Tacubaya—A Junction—President in M
24 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH
Santa Monica—Solidity—Old Paintings—Anachronism-Babies and Nurses from the Cuna —Society—Funds—Plan—Indian Nurses—Carmelite Convent— Midnight Warning—Old Villages and Churches—Indian Bath—San Mateo—The Lecheria—Fertility— Nolino Viejo —Dulness—Religious Exercises—Return to Mexico—Mexican Hotel—New Generals—Disturbances—General Bustamante— Inconvenience—Abuses in the name of Liberty—Verses—Independence celebrated. 8th. The Revolution has lasted upwards of thirty-five days; and during that time, t
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH
Opera—Santa Anna and his Suite—His Appearance— Belisario —Solitary " Viva! "—Brilliant House—Military Dictatorship— San Juan de Dios — Hospital de Jesús — Cuna —Old Woman and Baby—Different Apartments— Acordada—Junta—Female Prisoners—Chief Crime— Travaux Forces — Children—Male Prisoners— Forçats —Soldier's Gambling—Chapel— Confessional—Insane Hospital—Frenchmen—Different Kinds of Insanity— Kitchen—Dinner—Insane Monk—"Black Chamber"—Soldiers—College—Santa Anna's Leg—Projects—All Saints—Señora P—-
34 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH
Leave Mexico—Diligence—Indian Padre—Brandy-drinking Female—Bad Roads—Beautiful View—Escort—Good Breakfast—Crosses—Robber's Head—Select Party—Lerma—Valley of Toluca—Hacienda—Toluca—Count de B—— and Mr. W——— The Comandante—Gay Supper—Colonel Y———Day at Toluca—Journey to La Gabia—Heat and Hunger—Pleasant Quarters—Princely Estate—El Pilar—A Zorillo—A Wolf—Long Journey—Tortillas—Count de B———State of Michoacán—Forest Scenery— Trojes of Angangueo —Comfort. TOLUCA, 16th. In vain would be a description
33 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
PASCUARO.
PASCUARO.
Accompanied by several gentlemen of Morelia, who came early in the morning to see C—-n, we set off for the warm baths of Cuincho ; and as we rode along, the hill of Las Bateas was pointed out to us, where, by order of the Curate Morelos, two hundred Spaniards were murdered in cold blood, to revenge the death of his friend, the Curate Matamoros, who was taken prisoner and shot by orders of Yturbide. Horrible cruelty in a Christian priest! It is singular, that the great leaders of the independence
19 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
URUAPA.
URUAPA.
On leaving the fascinating village of Curu, we began to ascend La Cuesta ; and travelled slowly four leagues of mountain-road, apparently inaccessible; but the sure-footed horses, though stepping on loose and nearly precipitous rocks, rarely stumbled. The mountain of Curu is volcanic, a chaos of rent rocks, beetling precipices, and masses of lava that have been disgorged from the burning crater. Yet from every crag and crevice of the rock spring the most magnificent trees, twisted with flowering
5 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
Indian Dresses—Saints—Music—Union of Tropical and European Vegetation—Old Customs—Falls of the Sararaqui—Silkworms—Indian Painting—Beautiful Heroine—Leave Uruapa—Tziracuaratiro—Talkative Indian—Alcalde's House—Pascuaro—Old Church—Mosaic Work—The Lake—The Cave—Fried Fish—Rich Indians—Convent—Cuincho—Darkness—Morelia —Alameda—Cathedral—Silver—Waxworks—College—Wonderful Fleas. URIMPA, 31st. The dress of the Indian women of Uruapa is pretty, and they are altogether a much cleaner and better-looking
31 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
San Bartolo—Mass—Market—Rancheros—San Andrés—Insanity—Rancho—House of Don Carlos Heimburger—Wild Scenery—German Songs—Las Millas—Leave- taking—Storm—Rainbow—El Pilar—La Gabia—Toluca—News—Copper Pronunciamiento ——Return to Mexico—General Moran—Funeral Obsequies— New Theatre— Cock's Mass —Santa Clara—Santa Fe Prisoners—New Year. ANGANGUEO, 14th. After taking leave of all our hospitable friends in Morelia, we set off in the afternoon, and had a delightful ride to San Bartolo. Fortunately the follow
24 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
Last Day in Mexico—Theatre—Santa Anna—French Minister's—Parting—Diligence—Last Look of Mexico—Fatigue—Robbers—Escort—Second Impressions—Baths at Jalapa—Vera Cruz—Some Account of San Juan de Ulua—Siege of 1825—Siege of 1838—General Bustamante—Theatre—Of the North Winds. VERA CRUZ, 6th January, 1842. Having concluded our arrangements for leaving Mexico on the 2nd of January, we determined, as the diligence started long before daybreak, not to attempt taking any rest that night. We went out early,
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
Sail in the Tyrian—Norther off Tampico—The Bar—The River Panuco—The Pilot—The Shore—Alligator—" Paso de Doña Cecilia "—Tampico—Spanish Consul's House—Society—Navigation—Banks of the Panuco—Extraordinary Inoculation—The " Glorieta "—Leave Tampico—Furious Norther—Voyage— Arrival at Havana. ON BOARD H. B. M. PACKET TYRIAN, 15th. On the 8th, having taken leave of the family of our friend, Señor Velasco, and of General Bustamante, whom we hope to see again in Havana, we went out in a little boat, acc
18 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
Havana—The Carnival—The Elssler—La Angosta—Ingenio of Count V—-a—General Bustamante—Lord Morpeth—Leave Havana—Voyage in the Medway—Old Friends-Return to the United States. HAVANA, February 27th. It has been very agreeable for us to return here as private individuals, and to receive the same attentions as when we came in a public situation, but now with more real friendliness. Having arrived at the time of the carnival, we have been in the midst of masked balls, which are curious to see for once;
4 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter