My African Journey
Winston Churchill
13 chapters
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13 chapters
My African Journey
My African Journey
Mr. Churchill and the Rhinoceros at Simba. Frontispiece. My African Journey BY THE RIGHT HON. WINSTON SPENCER CHURCHILL, M.P. AUTHOR OF "THE STORY OF THE MALAKAND FIELD FORCE," "THE RIVER WAR," "LONDON TO LADYSMITH," "IAN HAMILTON'S MARCH," "SAVROLA," "LIFE OF LORD RANDOLPH CHURCHILL" WITH SIXTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR AND LIEUTENANT-COLONEL GORDON WILSON, AND THREE MAPS TORONTO WILLIAM BRIGGS 1909 Richard Clay & Sons, Limited , BREAD STREET HILL, E.C., AND BUNGA
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PREFACE
PREFACE
In so far as the collection of information is concerned, the advantages of travel may often be over-stated. So much has been written, so many facts are upon record about every country, even the most remote, that a judicious and persevering study of existing materials would no doubt enable a reader to fill himself with knowledge almost to repletion without leaving his chair. But for the formation of opinion, for the stirring and enlivenment of thought, and for the discernment of colour and propor
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CHAPTER I THE UGANDA RAILWAY
CHAPTER I THE UGANDA RAILWAY
The aspect of Mombasa as she rises from the sea and clothes herself with form and colour at the swift approach of the ship is alluring and even delicious. But to appreciate all these charms the traveller should come from the North. He should see the hot stones of Malta, baking and glistening on a steel-blue Mediterranean. He should visit the Island of Cyprus before the autumn rains have revived the soil, when the Messaoria Plain is one broad wilderness of dust, when every tree—be it only a thorn
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CHAPTER II AROUND MOUNT KENYA
CHAPTER II AROUND MOUNT KENYA
The town of Nairobi, the capital of the East Africa Protectorate, stands on the base of wooded hills at the three hundred and twenty-seventh mile of the railroad. Originally chosen as a convenient place for assembling the extensive depots and shops necessary to the construction and maintenance of the railway, it enjoys no advantages as a residential site. The ground on which the town is built is low and swampy. The supply of water is indifferent, and the situation generally unhealthy. A mile far
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CHAPTER III THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA
CHAPTER III THE HIGHLANDS OF EAST AFRICA
"Colour" is already the dominant question at Nairobi. "We mean to make East Africa a white man's country," cries, in strident tones, the Colonists' Association on every occasion. Truly a respectable and impressive policy; but one which seems, at first sight, rather difficult to achieve in a land where there are, so far, fewer than two thousand five hundred whites and more than four million black aboriginals. Can East Africa ever become a white man's country? Can even the Highlands, with their co
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CHAPTER IV THE GREAT LAKE
CHAPTER IV THE GREAT LAKE
We are off again on the Uganda Railway. Interesting and beautiful as is the country through which the line passes from Mombasa to Nairobi, it is surpassed by the magnificent scenery of the journey to the Lake. First in order and in rank is the Great Rift. This curious fault in the earth's surface, which geologists trace across the four thousand miles of land and sea which separate us from Palestine, and onward still to the southern end of Lake Tanganyika, is traversed by the Uganda Railway at on
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CHAPTER V THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA
CHAPTER V THE KINGDOM OF UGANDA
The East Africa Protectorate is a country of the highest interest to the colonist, the traveller, or the sportsman. But the Kingdom of Uganda is a fairy tale. You climb up a railway instead of a beanstalk, and at the end there is a wonderful new world. The scenery is different, the vegetation is different, the climate is different, and, most of all, the people are different from anything elsewhere to be seen in the whole range of Africa. Instead of the breezy uplands we enter a tropical garden.
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CHAPTER VI KAMPALA
CHAPTER VI KAMPALA
Two days after I had arrived at Entebbe the Governor took me over to Kampala. The distance between the ancient and the administrative capital is about twenty-four miles. The road, although unmetalled, runs over such firm, smooth sandstone, almost polished by the rains, that, except in a few places, it would carry a motor-car well, and a bicycle is an excellent means of progression. The Uganda Government motor-cars, which are now running well and regularly, had not then, however, arrived, and the
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CHAPTER VII 'ON SAFARI'
CHAPTER VII 'ON SAFARI'
Now the reader must really look at the map. To this point we have proceeded by train and steamer with all the power and swiftness of modern communication. If we have traversed wild and lonely lands, it has been in a railway carriage. We have disturbed the lion with the locomotive, and all our excursions have but led back to the iron road. But at Ripon Falls we are to let go our hold upon machinery. Steam and all it means is to be shut off. We are "to cut the painter," and, losing the impulsion o
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CHAPTER VIII MURCHISON FALLS
CHAPTER VIII MURCHISON FALLS
We had intended, on leaving the Nile where it turns northward at Mruli, to march directly across to Hoima, on the Albert Lake; and this journey, by way of Masindi, would have required four marches. But tales of the beauty and wonder of the Murchison Falls had captivated my mind, and before embarking at Kakindu a new plan had been resolved. Runners were sent back to the telegraph wire at Jinja, and thence a message was flashed by Kampala to Hoima, directing the flotilla which awaited us there, to
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CHAPTER IX HIPPO CAMP
CHAPTER IX HIPPO CAMP
It took no little time to stow all our baggage, food and tents upon the launch and its steel boats, and though our camp was astir at half-past three, the dawn was just breaking when we were able to embark. And then the James Martin wedged herself upon a rock a few yards from the shore of the sheltering inlet, and seemed to have got herself hard and fast; for pull as we might with all the force of the launch at full steam, and the added weight of the current to help us, not an inch would she budg
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CHAPTER X DOWN THE WHITE NILE
CHAPTER X DOWN THE WHITE NILE
We lingered lovingly around Hippo camp for two more days, moving to other lagoons and overflows of the river with the launch, and striking out inland in search of the great herd of elephants. But although their recent presence was on all sides proclaimed by snapped-off trees and trampled ground, and broad lanes cut through the grass, we saw none of them; and a tribe of natives who helped to carry home a variety of buck one afternoon, informed us upon expert authority that the whole herd had been
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CHAPTER XI THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT RAILWAY
CHAPTER XI THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT RAILWAY
My journey is at an end, the tale is told, and the reader who has followed so faithfully and so far has a right to ask what message I bring back. It can be stated in three words. Concentrate upon Uganda! Over the greater part of the north-east quarter of Africa, British influence or authority in one form or another is supreme. But when I turn my mind over all those vast expanses, excluding only Egypt, there is no region which offers prospects to compare in hopefulness with those of the Protector
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