42 chapters
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Selected Chapters
42 chapters
CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
The party proceed in canoes—description of an Indian sweating bath and burial place—many dangerous rapids passed—narrow escape of one of the canoes—in the passage down they are visited by several Indians, all of whom manifest pacific dispositions—description of the Sokulk tribe—their dress, and manner of building houses—their pacific character—their habits of living—their mode of boiling salmon—vast quantities of salmon amongst the Sokulk—council held with this tribe—the terror and consternation
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RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
RIVER COLUMBIA TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN.
By order of the PREPARED FOR THE PRESS IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. PHILADELPHIA PUBLISHED BY BRADFORD AND INSKEEP; AND ABM. H. INSKEEP, NEW YORK. J. Maxwell, Printer 1814. DISTRICT OF PENNSYLVANIA, to wit: BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the twenty-second day of January, in the thirty-eighth year of the independence of the United States of America, A.D.1814, Bradford and Inskeep, of the said district, have deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof they claim as proprietors, in the wo
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
In presenting these volumes to the public, the editor owes equally to himself and to others, to state the circumstances which have preceded the publication, and to explain his own share in compiling them. It was the original design of captain Lewis to have been himself the editor of his own travels, and he was on his way towards Philadelphia for that purpose when his sudden death frustrated these intentions. After a considerable and unavoidable delay, the papers connected with the expedition wer
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
The party in their passage still visited by the Indians—Lepage’s river described—immense quantities of salmon caught by the Indians—description of the river Towahnahiooks—Indian mode of stacking fish, and preparing them for market—description of the great falls—description of an Indian canoe—alarm excited by an anticipated attack from the Eheltoots—a very dangerous rapid passed in safety, called by the Indians the Falls—account of the Indian houses in the neighbourhood—another dreadful rapid pas
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
First appearance of tide water in the Columbia river—description of the Quicksand river—some account of the Skilloot Indians—the party pass the river Coweliske—some account of the Washkiacum Indians—arrival on the borders of the Pacific—disagreeable and critical situation of the party when first encamped—their distress occasioned by the incessant torrents of rain—exposed for thirty days to this drenching deluge, during which time their provisions are spoiled, and most of their few articles of me
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LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.
LIFE OF CAPTAIN LEWIS.
Monticello, August 18, 1813. SIR, In compliance with the request conveyed in your letter of May 25, I have endeavoured to obtain, from the relations and friends of the late governor Lewis, information of such incidents of his life as might be not unacceptable to those who may read the narrative of his western discoveries. The ordinary occurrences of a private life, and those also while acting in a subordinate sphere in the army, in a time of peace, are not deemed sufficiently interesting to occu
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Extravagant passion of the natives for blue beads, which constitute amongst them the circulating medium of the country—the party still in search of a suitable place for winter quarters—still suffering from the constant deluges of rain—are visited by the Indians, with whom they traffic but little, on account of the extravagant prices they ask for every article—return of captain Lewis, who reports that he has found a suitable place for winter quarters—the rain still continues—they prepare to form
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LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
LEWIS AND CLARKE'S EXPEDITION
The party set out on the expedition and pass Wood river—Description of the town of St. Charles—Osage Woman river—Gasconade and Osage Rivers described—Character of the Osage Indians—Curious traditionary account of their Origin—The party proceed and pass the Mine river—The two Charitons—The Kanzas, Nodawa, Newahaw, Neeshnabatona, Little Nemahar, each of which are particularly described—They encamp at the mouth of the river Platte—A particular description of the surrounding country—The various Cree
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CHAP. II.
CHAP. II.
Some account of the Pawnee Indians—Council held with the Otto and Missouri Indians—Council held with another party of the Ottoes—Death of sergeant Floyd—The party encamp near the mouth of Whitestone river—The character of the Missouri, with the rivers that enter it—The surrounding country—The various islands, bays, creeks, &c. given in the course of the expedition. Our camp is by observation in latitude 41° 3' 11". Immediately behind it is a plain about five miles wide, one half covered
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
A party, headed by captain Clarke, go in quest of a whale driven on the shore of the Pacific to obtain some of the oil—they pass Clatsop river, which is described—the perilous nature of this jaunt, and the grandeur of the scenery described—Indian mode of extracting whale oil—the life of one of captain Clarke’s party preserved by the kindness of an Indian woman—a short account of the Chinnooks, of the Clatsops, Killamucks, the Lucktons, and an enumeration of several other tribes—the manner of sep
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
An account of the Clatsops, Killamucks, Chinnooks and Cathlamahs—their uniform custom of flattening the forehead—the dress of these savages, and their ornaments, described—the licensed prostitution of the women, married and unmarried, of which a ludicrous instance is given—the character of their diseases—the common opinion, that the treatment of women is the standard by which the virtues of an Indian may be known, combatted, and disproved by examples—the respect entertained by these Indians for
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CHAP. III.
CHAP. III.
Whimsical instance of superstition of the Sioux Indians—Council held with the Sioux—Character of that tribe, their manners, &c.—A ridiculous instance of their heroism—Ancient fortifications—Quieurre river described—Vast herds of Buffaloe—Account of the Petit Chien or Little Dog—Narrow escape of George Shannon—Description of Whiteriver—Surprising fleetness of the Antelope—Pass the river of the Sioux—Description of the Grand Le Tour, or Great Bend—Encamp on the Teton river. August 25. Capt
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CHAP. IV.
CHAP. IV.
Council held with the Tetons—Their manners, dances, &c.—Chayenne River—Council held with the Ricara Indians—Their manners and habits—Strange instance of Ricara idolatry—Another instance—Cannonball river—Arrival among the Mandans—Character of the surrounding country, and of the creeks, islands, &c. September 25. The morning was fine, and the wind continued from the southeast. We raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled at twelve o'clock, with all the party paradi
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
A general description of the beasts, birds and plants, &c. found by the party in this expedition. The vegetable productions of the country, which furnish a large proportion of the food of the Indians, are the roots of a species of thistle, the fern, the rush, the liquorice, and a small cylindric root, resembling in flavour and consistency the sweet potatoe. 1st. The thistle, called by the natives shanatanque, is a plant which grows in a deep, rich, dry loam, with a considerable mixture o
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Difficulty of procuring means of subsistence for the party—they determine to resume their journey to the mountains—they leave in the hands of the Indians a written memorandum, importing their having penetrated to the Pacific, through the route of the Missouri and Columbia, and through the Rocky mountains—the party commence their return route—dexterity of the Cathlamah Indians in carving—description of the Coweliskee river—they experience much hospitality from the natives—an instance of the extre
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Council held with the Mandans—A prairie on fire, and a singular instance of preservation—Peace established between the Mandans and Ricaras—The party encamp for the winter—Indian mode of catching goats—Beautiful appearance of northern lights—Friendly character of the Indians—Some account of the Mandans—The Ahnahaways and the Minnetarees—The party acquire the confidence of the Mandans by taking part in their controversy with the Sioux—Religion of the Mandans, and their singular conception of the t
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Description of Wappatoo island, and the mode in which the nations gather wappatoo—the character of the soil and its productions—the numerous tribes residing in its vicinity—the probability that they were all of the tribe of the Multnomahs originally, inferred from similarity of dress, manners, language, &c.—description of their dress, weapons of war, their mode of burying the dead—description of another village, called the Wahelellah village—their mode of architecture—extraordinary heigh
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
The party increase in the favour of the Mandans—Description of a buffaloe dance—Medicine dance—The fortitude with which the Indians bear the severity of the season—Distress of the party for want of provisions—The great importance of the blacksmith in procuring it—Depredations of the Sioux—The homage paid to the medicine stone—Summary act of justice among the Minnetarees—The process by which the Mandans and Ricaras make beads—Character of the Missouri, of the surrounding country, and of the river
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Indian method of attacking the buffaloe on the ice—An enumeration of the presents sent to the president of the United States—The party are visited by a Ricara chief—They leave their encampment, and proceed on their journey—description of the Little Missouri—Some account of the Assiniboins—Their mode of burying the dead—Whiteearth river described—Great quantity of salt discovered on its banks—Yellowstone river described—A particular account of the country at the confluence of the Yellowstone and
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Captain Clarke procures four horses for the transportation of the baggage—some further account of the Skilloot tribe—their joy at the first appearance of salmon in the Columbia—their thievish propensities—the party arrive at the village of the Eneeshurs, where the natives are found alike unfriendly—the party now provided with horses—the party prevented from the exercise of hostility against this nation by a friendly adjustment—the scarcity of timber so great that they are compelled to buy wood t
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Unusual appearance of salt—The formidable character of the white bear—Porcupine river described—Beautiful appearance of the surrounding country—Immense quantities of game—Milk river described—Extraordinary character of Bigdry river—An instance of uncommon tenacity of life in a white bear—Narrow escape of one of the party from that animal—A still more remarkable instance—Muscleshell river described. Sunday 28. The day was clear and pleasant, and the wind having shifted to southeast, we could empl
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
The party still pursue their route towards the Kooskooskee on horseback with Wollawollah guides—character of the country—the quamash and other flowering shrubs in bloom—the party reach the Kinnooenim creek—they meet with an old acquaintance called the Bighorn Indian—they arrive at the mouth of the Kooskooskee—singular custom among the Chopunnish women—difficulty of purchasing provisions from the natives, and the new resort of the party to obtain them—the Chopunnish style of architecture—captain
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
The party continue their route—description of Judith river—Indian mode of taking the buffaloe—Slaughter river described—phenomena of nature—of walls on the banks of the Missouri—the party encamp on the banks of the river to ascertain which of the streams constitute the Missouri—captain Lewis leaves the party to explore the northern fork, and captain Clarke explores the southern—the surrounding country described in the route of captain Lewis—narrow escape of one of his party. Thursday 23. Last ni
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
The party encamp amongst the Chopunnish, and receive further evidences of their hospitality—the Indian mode of boiling bears-flesh—of gelding horses—their mode of decoying the deer within reach of their arrows—character of the soil and climate in the Rocky mountains—varieties of climate—character of the natives—their dress and ornaments—mode of burying the dead—the party administer medical relief to the natives—one of the natives restored to the use of his limbs by sweating, and the curious proc
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Return of captain Lewis—Account of captain Clarke's researches with his exploring party—Perilous situation of one of his party—Tansy river described—The party still believing the southern fork the Missouri, captain Lewis resolves to ascend it—Mode of making a place to deposit provisions, called cache—Captain Lewis explores the southern fork—Falls of the Missouri discovered, which ascertains the question—Romantic scenery of the surrounding country—Narrow escape of captain Lewis—The main body unde
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
The party mingle in the diversions of the Willetpos Indians, a tribe hitherto unnoticed—their joy on the prospect of a return—description of the vegetables growing on the Rocky mountains—various preparations made to resume their journey—the party set out, and arrive at Hungry creek—the serious and desponding difficulties that obstructed their progress—-they are compelled to return, and to wait for a guide across the mountains—their distress for want of provisions—they resolve to return to the Qu
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
The party proceed on their journey with their Indian guides, and at length agree to divide, to take several routes, and to meet again at the mouth of Yellowstone river—the route of captain Lewis is to pursue the most direct road to the falls of the Missouri, then to ascend Maria’s river, explore the country, and then to descend that river to its mouth—captain Lewis, accordingly, with nine men proceed up the eastern branch of Clarke’s river and take leave of their Indian guides—description of tha
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
Description and romantic appearance of the Missouri at the junction of the Medicine river—the difficulty of transporting the baggage at the falls—the party employed in the construction of a boat of skins—the embarrassments they had to encounter for want of proper materials—during the work the party much troubled by white bears—violent hail-storm, and providential escape of captain Clarke and his party—description of a remarkable fountain—singular explosion heard from the Black mountains—the boat
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
The party embark on board the canoes—Description of Smith's river—Character of the country, &c.—Dearborne's river described—Captain Clarke precedes the party for the purpose of discovering the Indians of the Rocky mountains—Magnificent rocky appearances on the borders of the river denominated the Gates of the Rocky mountains—Captain Clarke arrives at the three forks of the Missouri without overtaking the Indians—The party arrive at the three forks, of which a particular and interesting d
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Captain Lewis and his party still proceed on the route mentioned in the last chapter, and arrive at the forks of Maria’s river, of which river a particular description is given—-alarmed by the evidence that they are in the neighbourhood of unfriendly Indians, and much distressed for want of provisions, the weather proving unfavourable, they are compelled to return—the face of the country described—interview with the unfriendly Indians, called Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie—mutual consternation—r
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
The party commanded by captain Clarke, previous to his being joined by captain Lewis, proceed along Clarke’s river, in pursuance of the route mentioned in a preceding chapter—their sorry commemoration of our national anniversary—an instance of Sacajawea’s strength of memory—description of the river and of the surrounding country as the party proceed—several of the horses belonging to the party supposed to be stolen by their Indian neighbors—they reach Wisdom river—extraordinary heat of a spring—
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
The name of the Missouri changed, as the river now divides itself into three forks, one of which is called after Jefferson, the other Madison, and the other after Gallatin—their general character—the party ascend the Jefferson branch—description of the river Philosophy which enters into the Jefferson—captain Lewis and a small party go in advance in search of the Shoshonees—description of the country, &c. bordering on the river—captain Lewis still preceding the main party in quest of the
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
Captain Clarke proceeds with his party down the river—description of an Indian lodge—serjeant Pryor arrives with the horses left by the party when they embarked in their canoes—his difficulty in bringing them on—remarkable rock discovered by captain Clarke, and the beauty of the prospect from the summit—they continue their route down the river, of which a particular description is given, as well as of the surrounding country—Yellowstone and Bighorn river compared—great quantities of game found o
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Captain Lewis proceeds before the main body in search of the Shoshonees—his ill success on the first interview—the party with captain Lewis at length discover the source of the Missouri—captain Clarke with the main body still employed in ascending the Missouri or Jefferson river—captain Lewis's second interview with the Shoshonees attended with success—the interesting ceremonies of his first introduction to the natives, detailed at large—their hospitality—their mode of hunting the antelope—the d
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
The party, while descending the river in their skin canoes, are overtaken by the detachment under captain Lewis, and the whole party, now once more happily united, descend the Missouri together—they once more revisit the Minnetaree Indians, and hold a council with that nation, as well as the Mahahas—captain Clarke endeavours to persuade their chiefs to accompany him to the United States, which invitation they decline, on account of their fears of the Sioux in their passage down the river—Colter,
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Affecting interview between the wife of Chaboneau and the chief of the Shoshonees—Council held with that nation, and favourable result—The extreme navigable point of the Missouri mentioned—General character of the river and of the country through which it passes—Captain Clarke in exploring the source of the Columbia falls in company with another party of Shoshonees—The geographical information acquired from one of that party—Their manner of catching fish—The party reach Lewis river—The difficult
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Contest between Drewyer and a Shoshonee—The fidelity and honour of that tribe—The party set out on their journey—The conduct of Cameahwait reproved, and himself reconciled—The easy parturition of the Shoshonee women—History of this nation—Their terror of the Pawkees—Their government and family economy in their treatment of their women—Their complaints of Spanish treachery—Description of their weapons of warfare—Their curious mode of making a shield—The caparison of their horses—The dress of the
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CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
The party return in safety to St. Louis. Sunday, August 31. We examined our arms, and proceeded with the wind in our favour. For some time we saw several Indians on the hills, but soon lost sight of them. In passing the dome, and the first village of barking squirrels, we stopped and killed two fox squirrels, an animal which we have not seen on the river higher than this place. At night we encamped on the northeast side, after a journey of seventy miles. We had seen no game, as usual, on the riv
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
The party, after procuring horses from the Shoshonees, proceed on their journey through the mountains—The difficulties and dangers of the route—A council held with another band of the Shoshonees, of whom some account is given—They are reduced to the necessity of killing their horses for food—Captain Clarke with a small party precedes the main body in quest of food, and is hospitably received by the Pierced-nose Indians—Arrival of the main body amongst this tribe, with whom a council is held—They
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The time to which licenses shall extend.
The time to which licenses shall extend.
A view of the Indian character, so far as it is necessary it should be known, for the purposes of governing them, or maintaining a friendly commercial intercourse with them, may be comprised within the limits of a few general remarks. The love of gain is the Indians’ ruling passion, and the fear of punishment must form the corrective; to this passion we are to ascribe their inordinate thirst for the possession of merchandise, their unwillingness to accede to any terms, or enter into any stipulat
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A summary statement of the rivers, creeks, and most remarkable places, their distances from each other, &c. their distances from the Mississippi, ascending the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains, and down the Columbia to the Pacific ocean, as was explored in the years 1804, 5, and 6, by captains Lewis and Clarke.
A summary statement of the rivers, creeks, and most remarkable places, their distances from each other, &c. their distances from the Mississippi, ascending the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains, and down the Columbia to the Pacific ocean, as was explored in the years 1804, 5, and 6, by captains Lewis and Clarke.
Leaving the Missouri below the falls, and passing by land to the navigable waters of the Columbia river. Note. In passing from the falls of the Missouri, across the Rocky mountains to the navigable waters of the Columbia, you have two hundred miles of good road, one hundred and forty miles of high, steep, rugged mountains, sixty miles of which is covered from two to eight feet deep with snow in the last of June. Note. Fort Clatsop is situated on the west side of, and three miles up the Netui riv
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Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the Mississippi (Missouri); appearances of weather, winds, &c. commencing at the mouth of the river.
Thermometrical observations, showing also the rise and fall of the Mississippi (Missouri); appearances of weather, winds, &c. commencing at the mouth of the river.
Duboes in latitude 38° 55´ 19´´ ⁶/₁₀ north, and longitude 89° 57´ 45´´ west, January 1, 1804. Thermometer on the north side of a tree in the woods. Explanations of the notations of the weather. f means fair weather. c means cloudy. r means rain. s means snow. h means hail. t means thunder. l means lightning. a after, as f a r means fair after rain, which has intervened since the last observation. c a s means cloudy after snow intervening. c a r s means cloudy after rain and snow. Notations of th
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