28 chapters
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28 chapters
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
While this book is largely based upon personal observation in the countries described, the authors have taken pains to consult many recent and some older authors who have written about Scandinavia, that they might become familiar with the history and customs of the countries which a traveler could not otherwise so readily understand. Among these authorities may be mentioned Paul Du Chaillu’s work on “The Viking Age”; Boyesen’s “History of Norway” in the “Story of the Nations” series, a most exce
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FIRST LETTER
FIRST LETTER
In which Phillips descants on his route to Scandinavia from Berlin; on the gastronomic delights of a Swedish railway restaurant; on the lavish comfort and economy as well as the safety of travel in Sweden; on the quiet charms of the scenery in southern Sweden, as well as on the well-earned social position and independence of the Swedish farmer. Stockholm , January 1. My dear Judicia , You have brought this upon yourself, you know, for it was your proposition that Aylmer and I should try to make
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SECOND LETTER
SECOND LETTER
In which Phillips lauds Stockholm as the most beautiful of European cities; tells the tragic story of the royal palace; remarks casually upon the superabundance of telephones, for which Stockholm is famous; describes the Riksdag and the medieval ceremony of opening Parliament, and comments briefly on the relations of Church and State in Sweden. Stockholm , January 3. My dear Judicia , When last I wrote you, if I remember rightly, I was just approaching Stockholm, after the six-hundred-mile journ
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THIRD LETTER
THIRD LETTER
In which Phillips suggests that Stockholm should be called the “Automatic City”; describes the queer statistical animals, called “unified cattle”; extracts some interesting facts from the census; does not consider the stores or the bathtubs beneath his notice; treats of the effective temperance legislation of Sweden, and tells why a fire is so rare an excitement in Stockholm. Stockholm , January 7. My dear Judicia , You know how our American cities often strain themselves to find an appropriate
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FOURTH LETTER
FOURTH LETTER
Wherein Phillips tells of the many beautiful excursions from Stockholm, and soon takes Judicia into the heart of Dalecarlia, noted for the fertility of its soil and the bright costumes of its maidens. He also rehearses the romantic story of Gustavus Vasa, involving the treacherous cruelty of Christian II and the many hairbreadth escapes of Gustavus, until he roused the Swedes to fight for and win their freedom. Mora, Dalecarlia , January 10. My Dear Judicia , I told you in a former letter, did I
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FIFTH LETTER
FIFTH LETTER
Wherein are described the glories of an Arctic winter; the comfort of traveling beyond the polar circle (with a brief philological excursion); the inexpressible beauties of the “European Lady of the Snows”; the unique railway station of Polcirkeln, and the regions beyond. Kiruna, Lapland , January 15. My dear Judicia , I wonder if you remember how I wrote you some years ago about a journey I made toward the arctic circle in midwinter, and how enraptured I was with the still, cold days, the wonde
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SIXTH LETTER
SIXTH LETTER
In this chapter Phillips describes a day without a sunrise; his anxiety lest the sun should appear; the wonderful beauties of sunrise and sunset where the sun never appears; the fitful glories of the aurora borealis; the daily bombardment of Kiruna; the great iron mountain from which the bombardment comes; Luleå, the metropolis of the north, and a Lapp encampment in winter. Kiruna , January 14. My dear Judicia , I wonder if, when you were a girl, you were as much fascinated by Bayard Taylor’s tr
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SEVENTH LETTER
SEVENTH LETTER
Contains a glimpse of the history of Sweden as suggested by the monuments of Stockholm; Birger Jarl; Bridget, the saint without a monument; Gustavus Adolphus, the champion of Protestantism; Charles XII, who conquered half of Europe; Linnæus, the lover of flowers; John Ericsson, the inventor of the “Monitor.” Stockholm , January 17. My dear Judicia , My last letter left us in a Lapp camp on the northern edge of the Gulf of Bothnia, surrounded by dirty Lapps, yelping dogs, and ruminating reindeer;
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EIGHTH LETTER
EIGHTH LETTER
Wherein a jump is made from midwinter to midsummer, and the water journey from Stockholm to Upsala is described, during which the palace of Drottningholm is passed, and the famous ruins of Sigtuna, Skokloster Palace, with its rare art treasures, until we reach Upsala, the university town of Sweden, the “City of Eternal Youth,” with its thirteen “Nations.” Also something about the Codex Argenteus, the noble cathedral with its noted graces, as well as Gamla Upsala with the tumult of Odin, Thor, an
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NINTH LETTER
NINTH LETTER
Which tells of Swedish lakeland; the commodious craft on which one sails through it; with some side remarks on the coinage of the country and the honesty of the people. Returns to the four great lakes, and tells of hill-climbing by steamer and going down hill by the same route across Vettern and Venern until the falls of Trollhätten and Gotenburg are reached. Lake Venern , June 20. My dear Judicia , While I am sailing across this magnificent lake I must indite another epistle to you, telling you
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TENTH LETTER
TENTH LETTER
Describes the ancient city of Visby; the Gotlanders of old; their wonderful wealth; their defeat by King Valdemar, and the vats of gold that he demanded for the city’s ransom. Returning to more modern days, Midsummer’s Day, the great holiday of Sweden, is described. Visby , June 24. My dear Judicia , Please refer to the map once more, and you will see in the blue water, nearly halfway between the Swedish coast and the Baltic province of Russia, a long, scraggly island, with many capes and indent
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ELEVENTH LETTER
ELEVENTH LETTER
Wherein something is told of Sweden’s art and artists; the ancient rock-cutting of Bohus; the art treasures collected by the heroes of the Thirty Years’ War; Cederstrom’s picture of Charles XII; Carl Larsson’s pictures of the home; the mural paintings of the schoolhouses; also something about Sweden’s great authors and singers. Stockholm , June 30. My dear Judicia , With your love for libraries and picture galleries I should not dare to send you this last letter from Sweden without telling you s
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TWELFTH LETTER
TWELFTH LETTER
Relates to Finland; why it should be included in Scandinavia; its earlier and later history; its degradation by Russia; the charming journey from Stockholm to Åbo; and tells of a winter adventure in the Gulf of Bothnia. Åbo, Finland , July 1. My dear Judicia , I wonder if you are asking why I include Finland in the letters which we submit to you in regard to the relative merits of the different parts of Scandinavia. Do I hear you say that Finland is a part of Russia, and that the Finns are not e
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THIRTEENTH LETTER
THIRTEENTH LETTER
Relates to Åbo, the ancient capital of Finland; tells of its famous castle and the picture of the scene once enacted there; its market place; its hospitable people; its fine old Cathedral; the tombs of the heroes of the Thirty Years’ War and of Queen Katherine, the peasant queen of Sweden. Åbo, Finland , July 10. My dear Judicia , Finland has four important commercial ports—Åbo, Hangö, Helsingfors, and Viborg. The two former are available in winter, for though not ice free, as the experience I r
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FOURTEENTH LETTER
FOURTEENTH LETTER
Wherein something is told of the charming lakes of Finland and the canals that link them together; of the “Kalevala,” the great Finnish epic; of the Finnish farmhouse, without and within; of the inevitable bathhouse; of a melancholy Finnish wedding and the more cheerful Finnish funeral. In Finnish Lakeland , July 10. My dear Judicia , If you will study for a moment your Universal Atlas you will see that “Lakeland” is a most appropriate name for Finland, for, if the land in your atlas is represen
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FIFTEENTH LETTER
FIFTEENTH LETTER
Which has to do with Tammerfors, the “Manchester” of Finland, and the railway which takes one thither; its remarkable church; the Wounded Angel and the Garden of Death; also something about the church boats of the country districts, and the strange notice given from the pulpit. Tammerfors, Finland , July 15. My dear Judicia , Tammerfors is an inland city on the edge of the great lake region of which I wrote you in my last letter. I had to come here by rail, and perhaps you will be interested to
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SIXTEENTH LETTER
SIXTEENTH LETTER
Deals with Helsingfors, the capital of the Grand Duchy, and its strongly fortified islands; with Woman’s Suffrage in progressive Finland; with universal education; with the folk schools and the extreme attention given to them; with the university and its degrees; with the literature of the Finns and the more interesting Finn himself. Helsingfors, Finland , July 20. My dear Judicia , Helsingfors is the best place in the world from which to write you my last letter about greater Scandinavia, for i
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FIRST LETTER
FIRST LETTER
Aylmer explains his purpose in the letters he will write; from Germany to Denmark by ferry; the Danebrog; the wounded soldier; Harald Bluetooth and other characters of the past; Roskilde; the arrival in Copenhagen; certain of the Great Danes; “Bil-Jonen Teatret” and “The Hurricane Girls.” Copenhagen , December 3. My dear Judicia , Here I am in “Merchants’ Harbor,” alias Kopmannaehafn, alias Axelhus, etc., but more anon of it and its names. First I must tell you about the trip here. Please don’t
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SECOND LETTER
SECOND LETTER
Copenhagen alias Axelhus; the origin of the city; the twin towers of Fjenneslev; the Raadhus and its towers; Christian IV and Brewer Jacobsen; Ströget; the fountains of Copenhagen; the Tivoli Gardens; smörrebröd. Copenhagen , January 12. My dear Judicia , It is over a week since I wrote to you, and I have been sightseeing furiously ever since, but I have barely begun to see this interesting old town. It has rained all but two days of that time; but what of that? Personally, I like rain. Think ho
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THIRD LETTER
THIRD LETTER
Written on the train between Helsingör and Christiania. A little geography; who’s who in Denmark; Bertel Thorvaldsen and the Thorvaldsen Museum; Hans Christian Andersen; his experience with the “danseuse” of the Royal Theater; the final fulfillment of the gypsy woman’s prophecy; Frederiksborg; some “cute” tricks of Norse nobility in the past; Elsinore and “Prince Amleth”; the “Norges Communicationer.” En route. Helsingör to Christiania , December 24. My dear Judicia , I am in Sweden now, and in
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FOURTH LETTER
FOURTH LETTER
The color scheme of a Norwegian winter night; a trip up the coast; the “Maiden of Lekö” and Torg’s Hat; the home of Haarek remind us of the early methods of introducing Christianity into Norway; Thangbrand, the ferocious Saxon priest; Olaf Tryggvesson; some interesting sights en route for the Lofotens; the Maelström and Pontoppidan’s sea serpent; the great Lofoten fisheries; the long war between cod and herring; sea life in the Lofotens; approach to Narvik; certain Norwegian characteristics. Nar
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FIFTH LETTER
FIFTH LETTER
Some interesting etymology; from Trondhjem to Hell and return; Haralds, Haakons, and Olafs; Hasting and his sack of “Rome”; Harald Fairhair and his matrimonial ventures; Rolf the Walker; kissing by proxy; the descendants of Harald Fairhair; a Christian saint on the throne of Norway; Harold Gilchrist, a miracle of presumption; the blood-curdling bravery of the Jomsvikings; the troubled times before the accession of Olaf the Saint. Trondhjem , February 15. My dear Judicia , I think I left you abou
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SIXTH LETTER
SIXTH LETTER
The “thermometer of Norway”; the Reformation in Norway; the caliber of the early Reformation pastors; the register of the “Hospitset”; “fladbröd” and “mysost”; a type of Norwegian gentleman. Trondhjem , February 23. My dear Judicia , I have spent over a month now in Trondhjem, and I like it better and better every day. It bristles so with memories of the past, and yet it is such a wide-awake, modern city. Our old friend, Olaf Tryggvesson, founded it in 996, and ever since then the Norwegians hav
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SEVENTH LETTER
SEVENTH LETTER
Holmenkollen, the skiing center of the world; the throng of sport-seekers; Holmenkollen Day; the stuff from which Norsemen are made; Veidirektör Krag; Harald Hardruler; how to manufacture a halo. Holmenkollen , March 15. My dear Judicia , I have found the home of winter sport. Its name is Holmenkollen. Of course all Norway is known as the birthplace of the ski, and Holmenkollen is the sporting center of Norway. To-day a heavy mantle of fog has settled over Christiania, but up here at Holmenkolle
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EIGHTH LETTER
EIGHTH LETTER
Written on the train crossing the great Christiania-Bergen route. The prophet of Norway; Nicholas Breakspeare; a typical Norwegian hotel; the Gogstad ship takes us back a few centuries; Odin as poet; the practical opening of the Earlier Frostathing’s Law; the advertising propensities of the Norwegians; the liquor laws of Norway; the musical Spirit of the North; Ole Bull and Edvard Grieg. En route. Christiana to Bergen , April 3. My dear Judicia , Again I seem to be writing to you from a train. I
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NINTH LETTER
NINTH LETTER
Bergen, a Hanseatic city; an interesting museum; “Little Sir Alf”; the greatest military genius Norway ever had; the struggle between “Birchlegs” and “Baglers”; further historical connections of Bergen; Haakon Haakonsson. Bergen , May 1. My dear Judicia , I am comfortably situated in Hotel Norge, on Ole-Bulls-Plads. Directly beneath my window stands Ole Bull himself, continually though silently playing his violin, through rain and hail and snow and vapor and stormy wind. Bergen is a thoroughly o
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TENTH LETTER
TENTH LETTER
Norwegian fjord scenery; the “Seven Sisters” and “Pulpit Rock”; a comparison of the Sogne and Hardanger type of beauty; a drowned village; the cliff, Hornelen; the “City of Roses”; Björnstjerne Björnson; over the Romsdal-Gudbrandsdal route by carriole; an atmospheric kaleidoscope; the land of the “fos”; some Norwegian characteristics illustrated by the “skydsgut”; the “sæter” huts on the “fjeld”; Norwegian fauna; the terror of a lemming raid; “into the valley of death rode the six hundred”; a st
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ELEVENTH LETTER
ELEVENTH LETTER
Aylmer visits the North Cape; Narvik to Hammerfest; the oft-imagined midnight sun a realization; Vanniman and the sun compass; Hardanger Fjord and region; the Norwegian Sunday; a country wedding; the snow tunnel at Haukeli Sæter; the precipice of Dalen; a natural boomerang; the “Norwegian Rhine”; the romance of Helgenotra; a “stave-kirke”; Henrik Ibsen; educational difficulties in Norway; itinerant schoolmasters; the charm of Sætersdal; wherein lies the Spell of Norway? Bredvik, Sætersdal , Augu
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