With Ski & Sledge Over Arctic Glaciers
William Martin Conway
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WITH SKI & SLEDGE
WITH SKI & SLEDGE
All rights reserved Photo by E.J. Garwood. King’s Bay Glacier. WITH SKI & SLEDGE OVER ARCTIC GLACIERS BY SIR MARTIN CONWAY ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY E. J. GARWOOD LONDON J. M. DENT & CO. 29 & 30 BEDFORD STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. 1898 Printed by Ballantyne, Hanson & Co. At the Ballantyne Press...
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PREFACE
PREFACE
The story of the exploration of the interior of Spitsbergen, begun in 1896, as described in my former book entitled “The First Crossing of Spitsbergen,” is continued in the present volume, which is to be regarded as an appendix to that. In 1897 Mr. E. J. Garwood was once more my companion. The illustrations to this book are from photographs taken by him. I here desire to return him my thanks, not only for them, but for many another kindness, for the unbroken good-fellowship of his company, and t
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CHAPTER I KLAAS BILLEN BAY
CHAPTER I KLAAS BILLEN BAY
In the morning of July 9, 1897, Mr. E. J. Garwood and I, along with a small cargo of tourists, were delivered by the steamship Lofoten on the shore of Advent Bay, Spitsbergen, just ten days after leaving London. Our party was completed by two men of Vesteraalen, Edward Nielsen and Svensen by name. We had arranged to be met at Advent Bay by the small steamer Kvik , which was coming up to cruise about the Spitsbergen coast during the summer. It was annoying to learn that, though she left Tromsö a
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CHAPTER II UP THE NORDENSKIÖLD GLACIER
CHAPTER II UP THE NORDENSKIÖLD GLACIER
Our preparations being completed, we set forth up the Nordenskiöld Glacier, toward the unknown interior, on the morning of July 13. The first struggle up the steep, moraine-faced front of the glacier involved all our forces. The stones, lying upon ice, were loose and large. They slipped from under, or fell upon us. We took one sledge at a time and lightened it of half its burden, but still it was hard to drag. It wedged itself against rocks when pulled forward, but never seemed to find a stone t
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CHAPTER III BACK TO KLAAS BILLEN BAY
CHAPTER III BACK TO KLAAS BILLEN BAY
Garwood and I, for exercise, started out on ski, not daring to go far in the dense fog, for, except by following up the track, it was impossible to find the camp again once it had passed out of sight. With the surface snow in such feathery condition, a track would be obliterated in two minutes, even by a light wind. Caution, therefore, was essential. The calm continuing, we indulged in longer excursions, trudging always uphill, and sliding down again with increasing confidence and ease. Assuredl
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CHAPTER IV BY WATER TO KINGS BAY
CHAPTER IV BY WATER TO KINGS BAY
On awaking in relative luxury, by the shore of Klaas Billen Bay, late in the afternoon of July 21, we were far from pushing eagerly forward to the labours of the day. It seemed so good to be in a well-stored camp, with no need to husband fuel or count teaspoonfuls of cocoa and sugar or fills of tobacco. Moreover, our wet clothes were drying over a lamp in the men’s tent, drying all too thoroughly indeed, for Svensen permitted the soles to be burnt off the stockings. A final visit was made to the
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CHAPTER V THE KING’S HIGHWAY
CHAPTER V THE KING’S HIGHWAY
The next morning (July 26), being beautifully fine, was devoted to an astronomical determination of our position and other preparations for carrying on a survey. A preliminary expedition up the glacier occupied the afternoon. An easy way was found on to the ice, but there luck turned, for, as a matter of fact, we were not really on the Kings Glacier itself, but on the foot of a small tributary flowing round from an enclosed basin on the south and divided from the main glacier by an immense morai
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CHAPTER VI OSBORNE GLACIER AND PRETENDER PASS
CHAPTER VI OSBORNE GLACIER AND PRETENDER PASS
Explorers in most parts of the world are able to sketch general maps of large areas, which they may have traversed only along a single line of route. Undulating country intersected by prominent waterways and rising at considerable intervals to prominent altitudes can be mapped in a sketchy fashion by the rapidest traveller, if skilled. A few compass bearings fix the position of prominent points; positions, astronomically determined from time to time as opportunity arises, clamp the whole togethe
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CHAPTER VII THE SPITSBERGEN DOLOMITES
CHAPTER VII THE SPITSBERGEN DOLOMITES
When the sun passed round behind the Pretender, casting his shadow out upon the glacier far beyond camp, a hard frost set in, sealing up the runlets of water and binding the loosened rocks on the face of the cliff, so that stonefalls became rare; but no sooner did the fiery monarch come out from his retreat behind the mountains in the east than all the batteries of the hills opened to salute him. The afternoon of August 3, being our morning, Garwood and I shouldered packs for a scramble on the P
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CHAPTER VIII RETURN TO KINGS BAY
CHAPTER VIII RETURN TO KINGS BAY
All appearances were convincing that the weather had finally broken up, but a charm seemed to lie upon King James Land this year, for next morning (August 7) was fine as ever, with skies brilliantly clear. The white fog still covered the bay and the glacier’s foot, but retreated before us as we advanced on the downward journey, for which the time had now come. Instead of going far out on to the glacier, as in our ascent, we kept a more direct course, for crevasses that are too wide to drag sledg
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CHAPTER IX KINGS BAY TO HORN SOUND
CHAPTER IX KINGS BAY TO HORN SOUND
On boarding the Kvik we were again in contact with the outside world. There was much to hear and something to tell, so that time passed quickly. Baron Bornemisza, returning from a week’s cruise in Wijde Bay and along the north coast, was full of information about the condition of the ice in that direction. It was not so open as at the same time in the preceding year. Hinloopen Strait was blocked about halfway down; the Kvik had been unable to reach the Seven Islands. At Advent Bay we found the m
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CHAPTER X ASCENT OF MOUNT HEDGEHOG
CHAPTER X ASCENT OF MOUNT HEDGEHOG
After breakfast in the afternoon of August 17, as things looked a little better, we loaded ourselves with provisions, instruments, &c., and decided to make an expedition at all events to the base of Mount Hedgehog, and thence perhaps back to Horn Sound by way of Kittiwake Glacier. It was 8.30 P.M. when we set forth, all three in far from hopeful humour. We retraced the steps of the previous day, passing the ruined cookery, and going over undulating ground and up the right bank of Goose G
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CHAPTER XI ON THE USE OF SKI
CHAPTER XI ON THE USE OF SKI
Since Nansen published his book, “The First Crossing of Greenland,” the English public has known of ski and their use. Ski (pronounced shee ) are Norwegian snowshoes, now admitted to be the best form of snowshoe in the world. They are long, narrow planks for fastening one under each foot, so as to distribute over an area of soft snow, many times larger than the area of the foot, the weight of a man walking. They not only prevent him from sinking into the snow, but, if it is in suitable condition
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CHAPTER XII GEOGRAPHICAL RESULTS
CHAPTER XII GEOGRAPHICAL RESULTS
Before taking leave of the reader it seems advisable to indicate briefly the general geographical results of our two seasons of exploration in the interior of Spitsbergen, and to state what is now known about the structure of the surface of one of the most interesting areas of arctic land. On Nordenskiöld’s chart, the best map of Spitsbergen existing at the time when we began our labours, both Garwood Land and King James Land are described as covered with “inland ice.” Now, if the phrase “inland
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APPENDIX
APPENDIX
Account of Herr G. Nordenskiöld’s Traverse over the Glaciers from Horn Sound to Bell Sound in 1890. [19] June 15th, 1890. —At six o’clock in the evening we landed by boat at the foot of Rotges Mount at a spot where a small valley gave access to the mountain above. We imagined that on the other side of this mountain we should meet with the smooth inland ice and that it would extend all the way along to Bell Sound. After taking a hurried farewell of our comrades, we buckled on our ski, put our kna
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