Recollections Of Europe - free ebook by James Fenimore Cooper

COLLECTION OF ANCIENT AND MODERN BRITISH AUTHORS.

AUTHOR OF "THE PILOT," "THE SPY", etc....

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LETTER I.

Our Embarkation.—Leave-taking.—Our Abigail.—Bay of New York.—The Hudson.—Ominous Prediction.—The Prophet falsified.—Enter the Atlantic.—"Land-birds."—Our Master.—Officers of Packet-ships.—Loss of "The Crisis."—The "Three Chimneys."—Calamities at Sea. —Sailing-match.—View of the Eddystone.—The Don Quixote.—Comparative Sailing.—Pilot-boats.—Coast of Dorsetshire.—The Needles. —Lymington.—Southampton Water.—The Custom-house....

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LETTER II.

Controversy at Cowes.—Custom-house Civility.—English Costume.—Fashion in America.—Quadrilles in New York.—Cowes.—Nautical Gallantry. English Beauty.—Isle of Wight Butter.—English Scenery.—M'Adamized Roads.—Old Village Church.—Rural Interment.—Pauper's Grave.—Carisbrooke Cattle.—Southampton.—Waiter at the Vine.—English Costume.—Affinity with England.—Netley Abbey.—Southampton Cockneys....

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LETTER III.

Road to London.—Royal Pastime.—Cockney Coachman.—Winchester Assizes. —Approach to London.—The Parks.—Piccadilly.—Street Excursion. —Strangers in London.—Americans in England.—Westminster Abbey. —Gothic Decorations.—Westminster Hall.—Inquisitive Barber.—Pasta and Malibran.—Drury-lane Theatre.—A Pickpocket.—A Fellow-traveller. —English Gentlemen.—A Radical.—Encampment of Gipsies.—National Distinctions.—Antiquities.—National Peculiarities....

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LETTER IV.

Quit England.—Approach to France.—Havre.—Our Reception there.—Female Commissionnaire.—Clamour of Drums.—Port of Havre.—Projected Enterprize.—American Enterprize.—Steam-boat Excursion.—Honfleur.—Rouen.—French Exaction.—American Porters.—Rouen Cathedral.—Our Cicerone.—A Diligence.—Picturesque Road.—European Peasantry.—Aspect of the Country.—Church at Louviers.—Village near Vernon.—Rosny.—Mantes.—Bourbon Magnificence. —Approach to Paris—Enter Paris....

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LETTER V.

Paris in August 1826.—Montmartre.—The Octroi.—View of Paris. —Montmorency.—Royal Residences.—Duke of Bordeaux.—Horse-racing. —The Dauphine.—Popular feeling in Paris.—Royal Equipage.—Gardes du Corps.—Policy of Napoleon.—Centralization....

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LETTER VI.

Letters of Introduction.—European Etiquette.—Diplomatic Entertainments.—Ladies in Coffee-houses.—French Hospitality.—Mr. Canning at Paris.—Parisian Hotels.—French Lady at Washington.—Receptions in Paris and in New York.—Mode of Announcement.—Republican Affectation.—Hotel Monaco.—Dinner given to Mr. Canning.—Diplomatic Etiquette.—European Ambassadors.—Prime Minister of France.—Mr. Canning.—Count Pozzo di Borgo.—Precedency at Dinner.—American Etiquette.—A French Dinner.—Servants.—Catholic Fasting.

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LETTER VII.

English Jurisprudence.—English Justice.—Justice in France.—Continental Jurisprudence.—Juries.—Legal Injustice.—The Bar in France.—Precedence of the Law....

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LETTER VIII.

Army of France.—Military Display.—Fête of the Trocadero.—Royal Review.—Royal Ordinance.—Dissatisfaction.—Hostile Demonstration.—Dispersion of Rioters.—French Cavalry.—Learned Coachman.—Use of Cavalry.—Cavalry Operations.—The Conscription.—National Defence.—Napoleon's Marshals.—Marshal Soult—Disaffection of the Army....

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LETTER IX

Royal Dinner.—Magnificence and Comfort.—Salle de Diane.—Prince de Condé.—Duke of Orleans.—The Dinner-table.—The Dauphin.—Sires de Coucy.—The Dauphine.—Ancient Usages—M. de Talleyrand.—Charles X. —Panoramic Procession.—Droll Effect.—The Dinner.—M. de Talleyrand's Office.—The Duchesse de Berri.—The Catastrophe.—An Aristocratic Quarrel....

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LETTER X.

Road to Versailles.—Origin of Versailles.—The present Chateau.—The two Trianons.—La Petite Suisse.—Royal Pastime.—Gardens of Versailles. —The State Apartments.—Marie Antoinette's Chamber.—Death of Louis XV. —Oeil de Boeuf.—The Theatre and Chapel.—A Quarry.—Caverns.—Compiègne.—Chateau de Pierre-font.—Influence of Monarchy.—Orangery at Versailles....

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LETTER XI.

Laws of Intercourse.—Americans in Europe.—Americans and English. —Visiting in America.—Etiquette of Visits.—Presentations at Foreign Courts.—Royal Receptions.—American Pride.—Pay of the President. —American Diplomatist....

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LETTER XII.

Sir Walter Scott in Paris.—Conversation with him.—Copyright in America.—Miss Scott.—French Compliments.—Sir Walter Scott's Person and Manners.—Ignorance as to America.—French Commerce.—French Translations.—American Luxury....

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LETTER XIII.

French Manufactures.—Sèvres China.—Tapestry of the Gobelins.—Paper for Hangings.—The Savonnerie.—French Carpets.—American Carpets. —Transfer of old Pictures from Wood to Canvass.—Coronation Coach. —The Arts in France—in America.—American Prejudice....

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LETTER XIV.

False Notions.—Continental Manners.—People of Paris.—Parisian Women. —French Beauty.—Men of France.—French Soldiers....

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LETTER XV.

Perversion of Institutions.—The French Academy.—Laplace.—Astronomy. —Theatres of Paris.—Immoral Plot.—Artificial Feelings.—French Tragedy.—Literary Mania.—The American Press.—American Newspapers.—French Journals—Publishing Manoeuvres.—Madame Malibran....

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LETTER XVI.

Environs of Paris.—Village of St. Ouen.—Our House there.—Life on the River.—Parisian Cockneys.—A pretty Grisette.—Voyage across the Seine.—A rash Adventurer.—Village Fête.—Montmorency.—View near Paris....

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LETTER XVII.

Rural Drives.—French Peasantry.—View of Montmartre.—The Boulevards. —The Abattoirs.—Search for Lodgings.—A queer Breakfast.—Royal Progresses and Magnificence.—French Carriages and Horses.—Modes of Conveyance.—Drunkenness.—French Criminal Justice.—Marvellous Stories of the Police....

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LETTER XVIII.

Personal Intercourse.—Parisian Society and Hospitality.—Influence of Money.—Fiacres.—M. de Lameth.—Strife of Courtesy.—Standard of Delicacy.—French Dinners.—Mode of Visiting.—The Chancellor of France. —The Marquis de Marbois.—Political Côteries.—Paris Lodgings.—A French Party.—An English Party.—A splendid Ball.—Effects of good Breeding.—Characteristic Traits.—Influence of a Court....

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LETTER XIX.

Garden of the Tuileries.—The French Parliament.—Parliamentary Speakers.—The Tribune.—Royal Initiative.—The Charter.—Mongrel Government.—Ministerial Responsibility.—Elections in France.—Doctrinaires.—Differences of Opinion.—Controversy....

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LETTER XX.

Excursion with Lafayette.—Vincennes.—The Donjon.—Lagrange.—The Towers.—Interior of the House—the General's Apartments.—the Cabinet. —Lafayette's Title.—Church of the Chateau.—Ruins of Vivier.—Roman Remains.—American Curiosity.—The Table at Lagrange.—Swindling....

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LETTER XXI.

Insecurity of the Bourbons.—Distrust of Americans.—Literary Visitor. —The Templars.—Presents and Invitations.—A Spy.—American Virtue. —Inconsistency.—Social Freedom in America.—French Mannerists. —National Distinctions.—A lively Reaction....

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LETTER XXII.

Animal Magnetism.—Somnambules.—Magnetised Patients.—My own Examination.—A Prediction.—Ventriloquism.—Force of the Imagination....

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LETTER XXIII.

Preparations for Departure.—My Consulate.—Leave Paris.—Picardy.—Cressy.—Montreuil.—Gate of Calais.—Port of Calais.—Magical Words....

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PREFACE.

It may seem to be late in the day to give an account of the more ordinary characteristics of Europe. But the mass of all nations can form their opinions of others through the medium of testimony only; and as no two travellers see precisely the same things, or, when seen, view them with precisely the same eyes, this is a species of writing, after all, that is not likely to pall, or cease to be useful. The changes that are constantly going on everywhere, call for as constant repetitions of the des

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LETTER I.

Our Embarkation.—Leave-taking.—Our Abigail.—Bay of New York. —The Hudson.—Ominous Prediction.—The Prophet falsified.—Enter the Atlantic.—"Land-birds."—Our Master.—Officers of Packet-ships. —Loss of "The Crisis."—The "Three Chimneys."—Calamities at Sea. —Sailing-match.—View of the Eddystone.—The Don Quixote. —Comparative Sailing.—Pilot-boats.—Coast of Dorsetshire.—The Needles. —Lymington.—Southampton Water.—The Custom-house....

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TO CAPTAIN SHUBRICK, U.S.N.

"Passengers by the Liverpool, London and Havre packets are informed that a steam-boat will leave the White Hall Wharf precisely at eleven, A.M. to-morrow, June 1st." If to this notice be added the year 1826, you have the very hour and place of our embarkation. We were nominally of the London party, it being our intention, however, to land at Cowes, from which place we proposed crossing the Channel to Havre. The reason for making this variation from the direct route, was the superior comfort of t

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TO MRS. POMEROY, COOPERSTOWN, NEW YORK.

We were no sooner on English ground, than we hurried to one of the two or three small inns of West Cowes, or the principal quarter of the place, and got rooms at the Fountain. Mr. and Mrs. —— had preceded us, and were already in possession of a parlour adjoining our own. On casting an eye out at the street, I found them, one at each window of their own room, already engaged in a lively discussion of the comparative merits of Cowes and Philadelphia! This propensity to exaggerate the value of what

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LETTER III.

Road to London.—Royal Pastime.—Cockney Coachman.—Winchester Assizes. —Approach to London.—The Parks.—Piccadilly.—Street Excursion. —Strangers in London.—Americans in England.—Westminster Abbey. —Gothic Decorations.—Westminster Hall.—Inquisitive Barber.—Pasta and Malibran.—Drury-lane Theatre.—A Pickpocket.—A Fellow-traveller. —English Gentlemen.—A Radical.—Encampment of Gipsies.—National Distinctions.—Antiquities.—National Peculiarities. To R. COOPER, ESQ. COOPERSTOWN. At a very early hour one of

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LETTER IV.

Quit England.—Approach to France.—Havre.—Our Reception there.—Female Commissionnaire.—Clamour of Drums.—Port of Havre.—Projected Enterprize.—American Enterprize.—Steam-boat Excursion.—Honfleur.—Rouen.—French Exaction.—American Porters.—Rouen Cathedral.—Our Cicerone.—A Diligence.—Picturesque Road.—European Peasantry.—Aspect of the Country.—Church at Louviers.—Village near Vernon.—Rosny.—Mantes.—Bourbon Magnificence. —Approach to Paris—Enter Paris. To R. COOPER, ESQ., COOPERSTOWN. On quitting Engl

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LETTER V.

Paris in August 1826.—Montmartre.—The Octroi.—View of Paris. —Montmorency.—Royal Residences.—Duke of Bordeaux.—Horse-racing. —The Dauphine.—Popular feeling in Paris.—Royal Equipage.—Gardes du Corps.—Policy of Napoleon.—Centralization. To R COOPER, ESQ., COOPERSTOWN. We were not a fortnight in Paris before we were quietly established, en bourgeois , in the Faubourg St. Germain. Then followed the long and wearying toil of sight-seeing. Happily, our time was not limited, and we took months for that

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LETTER VI.

Letters of Introduction.—European Etiquette.—Diplomatic Entertainments. —Ladies in Coffee-houses.—French Hospitality.—Mr. Canning at Paris. —Parisian Hotels.—French Lady at Washington.—Receptions in Paris and in New York.—Mode of Announcement.—Republican Affectation. —Hotel Monaco.—Dinner given to Mr. Canning.—Diplomatic Etiquette. —European Ambassadors.—Prime Minister of France.—Mr. Canning. —Count Pozzo di Borgo.—Precedency at Dinner.—American Etiquette. —A French Dinner.—Servants.—Catholic Fa

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LETTER VII.

English Jurisprudence.—English Justice.—Justice in France.—Continental Jurisprudence.—Juries.—Legal Injustice.—The Bar in France.—Precedence of the Law. To JACOB SUTHERLAND, ESQ. NEW YORK. Your legal pursuits will naturally give you an interest in the subject of the state of justice in this part of the world. A correspondence like mine would not admit of any very profound analysis of the subject, did I possess the necessary learning, which I do not, but I may present a few general facts and noti

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LETTER VIII.

Army of France.—Military Display.—Fête of the Trocadero.—Royal Review. —Royal Ordinance.—Dissatisfaction.—Hostile Demonstration.—Dispersion of Rioters.—French Cavalry.—Learned Coachman.—Use of Cavalry.—Cavalry Operations.—The Conscription.—National Defence.—Napoleon's Marshals. —Marshal Soult—Disaffection of the Army. To COL. BANKHEAD, U.S. ARTILLERY. The army of France obtained so high a reputation, during the wars of the revolution and the empire, that you may feel some curiosity to know its a

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LETTER IX.

Royal Dinner.—Magnificence and Comfort.—Salle de Diane.—Prince de Condé.—Duke of Orleans.—The Dinner-table.—The Dauphin.—Sires de Coucy.—The Dauphine.—Ancient Usages—M. de Talleyrand.—Charles X. —Panoramic Procession.—Droll Effect.—The Dinner.—M. de Talleyrand's Office.—The Duchesse de Berri.—The Catastrophe.—An Aristocratic Quarrel. To MRS. SINGLETON W. BEALL, GREEN BAY. We have lately witnessed a ceremony that may have some interest for one who, like yourself, dwells in the retirement of a rem

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LETTER X.

Road to Versailles.—Origin of Versailles.—The present Chateau.—The two Trianons.—La Petite Suisse.—Royal Pastime.—Gardens of Versailles. —The State Apartments.—Marie Antoinette's Chamber.—Death of Louis XV. —Oeil de Boeuf.—The Theatre and Chapel.—A Quarry.—Caverns.—Compiègne.—Chateau de Pierre-font.—Influence of Monarchy.—Orangery at Versailles. To R. COOPER, ESQ., COOPERSTOWN, NEW YORK. We have been to Versailles, and although I have no intention to give a laboured description of a place about

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LETTER XI.

Laws of Intercourse.—Americans in Europe.—Americans and English. —Visiting in America.—Etiquette of Visits.—Presentations at Foreign Courts.—Royal Receptions.—American Pride.—Pay of the President. —American Diplomatist. To JAMES STEVENSON, ESQUIRE, ALBANY. I intend this letter to be useful rather than entertaining. Living, as we Americans do, remote from the rest of the world, and possessing so many practices peculiar to ourselves, at the same time that we are altogether wanting in usages that a

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LETTER XII.

Sir Walter Scott in Paris.—Conversation with him.—Copyright in America.—Miss Scott.—French Compliments.—Sir Walter Scott's Person and Manners.—Ignorance as to America.—French Commerce.—French Translations.—American Luxury. To JAMES E. DE KAY, ESQUIRE. We have not only had Mr. Canning in Paris, but Sir Walter Scott has suddenly appeared among us. The arrival of the Great Unknown, or, indeed, of any little Unknown from England, would be an event to throw all the reading clubs at home into a state

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LETTER XIII.

French Manufactures.—Sèvres China.—Tapestry of the Gobelins.—Paper for Hangings.—The Savonnerie.—French Carpets.—American Carpets. —Transfer of old Pictures from Wood to Canvass.—Coronation Coach. —The Arts in France—in America.—American Prejudice. To JAMES E. DE KAY, ESQUIRE. In my last, I gave you a few examples of the instances in which the French have mistaken the relative civilization of their country and America, and I shall now give you some in which we have fallen into the same error, or

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LETTER XIV.

False Notions.—Continental Manners.—People of Paris.—Parisian Women. —French Beauty.—Men of France.—French Soldiers. To JAMES STEVENSON, ESQUIRE, ALBANY. I cannot tell you whence the vulgar notions that we entertain of the French, which, with many other pernicious prejudices, have made a part of our great inheritance from England, have been originally obtained. Certainly I have seen no thing, nor any person, after a long residence in the country, to serve as models to the flippant marquis , the

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LETTER XV.

Perversion of Institutions.—The French Academy.—Laplace.—Astronomy. —Theatres of Paris.—Immoral Plot.—Artificial Feelings.—French Tragedy.—Literary Mania.—The American Press.—American Newspapers.—French Journals—Publishing Manoeuvres.—Madame Malibran. To JAMES E. DE KAY, ESQUIRE. It appears to be the melancholy lot of humanity, that every institution which ingenuity can devise shall be perverted to an end different from the legitimate. If we plan a democracy, the craven wretch who, in a despotis

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TO JAMES STEVENSON, ESQUIRE, ALBANY.

We have been the residents of a French village ever since the 1st of June, and it is now drawing to the close of October. We had already passed the greater part of a summer, and entire autumn, winter and spring, within the walls of Paris, and then we thought we might indulge our tastes a little, by retreating to the fields, to catch a glimpse of country life. You will smile when I add that we are only a league from the Barrière de Clichy. This is the reason I have not before spoken of the remova

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LETTER XVII.

Rural Drives.—French Peasantry.—View of Montmartre.—The Boulevards. —The Abattoirs.—Search for Lodgings.—A queer Breakfast.—Royal Progresses and Magnificence.—French Carriages and Horses.—Modes of Conveyance.—Drunkenness.—French Criminal Justice.—Marvellous Stories of the Police. To CAPT. M. PERRY, U.S.N. I am often in the saddle since our removal to St. Ouen. I first commenced the business of exploring in the cabriolet, with my wife for a companion, during which time, several very pretty drives

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LETTER XVIII.

Personal Intercourse.—Parisian Society and Hospitality.—Influence of Money.—Fiacres.—M. de Lameth.—Strife of Courtesy.—Standard of Delicacy.—French Dinners.—Mode of Visiting.—The Chancellor of France.—The Marquis de Marbois.—Political Côteries.—Paris Lodgings. —A French Party.—An English Party.—A splendid Ball.—Effects of good Breeding.—Characteristic Traits.—Influence of a Court. To MRS. POMEROY, COOPERSTOWN. I have said very little, in my previous letters, on the subject of our personal interc

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TO JACOB SUTHERLAND, ESQ. NEW YORK.

The Chambers have been opened with the customary ceremonies and parade. It is usual for the king, attended by a brilliant cortège , to go, on these occasions, from the Tuileries to the Palais Bourbon, through lines of troops, under a salute of guns. The French love spectacles , and their monarch, if he would be popular, is compelled to make himself one, at every plausible opportunity. The garden of the Tuileries is a parallelogram, of, I should think, fifty acres, of which one end is bounded by

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LETTER XX.

Excursion with Lafayette.—Vincennes.—The Donjon.—Lagrange.—The Towers.—Interior of the House—the General's Apartments.—the Cabinet. —Lafayette's Title.—Church of the Chateau.—Ruins of Vivier.—Roman Remains.—American Curiosity.—The Table at Lagrange.—Swindling. To R. COOPER, ESQ. COOPERSTOWN. I have said nothing to you of Lagrange, though I have now been there no less than three times. Shortly after our arrival in Paris, General Lafayette had the kindness to send us an invitation; but we were det

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LETTER XXI.

Insecurity of the Bourbons.—Distrust of Americans.—Literary Visitor. —The Templars.—Presents and Invitations.—A Spy—American Virtue. —Inconsistency.—Social Freedom in America,—French Mannerists —National Distinctions.—A lively Reaction. To R. COOPER, ESQ. COOPERSTOWN. We all went to bed, a night or two since, as usual, and awoke to learn that there had been a fight in the capital. One of the countless underplots had got so near the surface, that it threw up smoke. It is said, that about fifty we

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LETTER XXII.

Animal Magnetism.—Somnambules.—Magnetised Patients.—My own Examination.—A Prediction.—Ventriloquism.—Force of the Imagination. To JAMES E. DE KAY, M.D. Although we have not been without our metaphysical hallucinations in America, I do not remember to have heard that "animal magnetism" was ever in vogue among us. A people who are not very quick to feel the poetry of sentiment, may well be supposed exempt from the delusions of a doctrine which comprehends the very poetry of physics. Still, as the

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LETTER XXIII.

Preparations for Departure.—My Consulate.—Leave Paris.—Picardy.—Cressy.—Montreuil.—Gate of Calais.—Port of Calais.—Magical Words. To R. COOPER, ESQ., COOPERSTOWN. We entered France in July, 1826, and having remained in and about the French capital until February, 1828, we thought it time to change the scene. Paris is effectually the centre of Europe, and a residence in it is the best training an American can have, previously to visiting the other parts of that quarter of the world. Its civilisat

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