Reminiscences Of Tottenham - free ebook by Harriet Couchman

REMINISCENCES OF TOTTENHAM.

Decorative graphic — BY — Mrs. J. W. Couchman . Decorative graphic Price, 2/6....

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PREFACE.

Having lived in this parish all my life I have been repeatedly asked by my friends to write a short account of my early recollections of Tottenham. I feel a little diffident at doing so, and this being my first attempt at committing my recollections to paper I trust my readers will pardon any mistakes and omissions, and that it will be as interesting to some of them to read as it has been to me to write. My father was born at Palmers Green in 1798; my mother was born in this parish in the year 1

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Tottenham,

75 years ago, was a very pretty quiet village, most of the houses were good and old-fashioned; there were several mansions, but very few shops. It was a favourite resort for Royalty, and has always been considered a very healthy neighbourhood. Some of the inhabitants lived to a very advanced age. The highway was measured in 1611; it was two miles and a quarter long. Mile stones were then erected. The parish was divided into different Manors, called Pembrokes, Bruces, Daubeneys, Mockings, and

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STAMFORD HILL.

I purpose commencing here, where the Old Turnpike House and Gate stood, by the pond called “Craven’s Pond” or “Leg of Mutton Pond,” because of its shape, on which there used to be several beautiful swans. It was a great source of delight to the young people, when frozen over, by affording an opportunity for skating and sliding to many. A large house stood on the estate called “Craven Lodge,” where the owner, Mr. Arthur Craven, resided. It was afterwards occupied by Mr. Samuel Morley. Perhaps

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BAILEY’S LANE.

There were a few old cottages beyond Mr. Sievieking’s garden, and on the opposite side of the road Sumpter’s livery stables; then fields on both sides down to the River Lea, where there were coke ovens always brightly burning. There were several large houses lying back from the High-road, Stamford Hill, with front gardens on the waste land; of these only two remain. There was a mansion standing next, where Mr. Fowler Newsam resided for many years. There was a very pretty walk round the shrubbe

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PAGE GREEN—BRAMBLE LANE (Now BROAD LANE).

There was a side road leading to the Rev. G. H. Thompson’s house, with post and chain fence down the left-hand side a considerable distance, and fir and other trees; this road also led to the house belonging to and occupied by Mr. James Rowe, which had upwards of thirty-one acres of land attached to it. A large pond, called Page Green Pond, was on the green opposite the house. At the end of the green, and facing the High-road, a large house stood, occupied by Mr. Spartelle, whose grounds extend

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TOTTENHAM GREEN.

In the second of the two houses on the south side, the Rev. G. B. Twining lived when he first came to Tottenham. The next estate belonged to the Rev. Richard Momford Wood; it consisted of 22 acres of meadow land, rented by Mr. Thomas King; the fields reached to the Hale. It was afterwards rented by Mr. Goddard’s father, who lived at the High Gross, on the opposite side to where they now live. He kept a quantity of geese, and every morning, at 10 o’clock, they left the yard and went to the fie

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HIGH CROSS.

The shops here are about the same, only modernised, and lowered. There used to be a butcher’s, baker’s, stationer’s (which was then the post office), poulterer’s, carpenter’s, tailor’s, Rose and Crown Inn, chandler’s shop, hairdresser’s, fruiterer’s, and grocer’s, at the corner. The post office was afterwards on the Green, and then removed to the stationer’s, where it is now. High Cross-lane, now called High Cross-road, was a very different place to what it is now. As the word lane indicates,

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THE HALE.

Here, on one side, stood some very old cottages, with long gardens in front, and the White Hart Inn. On the other side was the Pound, standing on the waste land opposite “The White Cottage,” and next came the old farmhouse, and land, in the occupation of Mr. Willan, the proprietor of the West End omnibus. This was afterwards Ware’s Nursery Grounds (he was son-in-law to Mr. Willan). It is now covered with factories. Then there were fields down to the River Lea....

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GREAT EASTERN RAILWAY.

This main Eastern Counties lines was the first railway in Tottenham. Soon after it was opened there was a bad accident at the Hale Station; we had no hospital then, so the injured passengers were taken in by various residents. The railway carriages were none too comfortable, the third-class being all open. This was a very busy station, so much cattle coming here for the London market....

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THE RIVER LEA.

It was a beautiful walk along its banks, with forget-me-nots growing by the water’s edge. The numerous boats and barges gave it a very animated appearance....

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LEA BRIDGE.

In a field here quantities of wild orchids grew. The river was frozen one very severe winter; I remember walking across it....

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TOTTENHAM MILLS.

These mills stood one on either side of the road leading to Walthamstow, by Tottenham Lock. They were formerly paper mills, and there seems to have been a good deal of bad fortune attached to them; they were burnt down 23rd February, 1778; rebuilt in a very substantial manner, and sold September 25th, 1779, when they were started as corn and oil mills. In January, 1816, they were so much damaged by a flood that they were not completely at work for nearly the whole of the following year. I ofte

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THE MARSHES.

There are about 298 acres of marsh land. The several names are “Lock Mead Marsh,” “Clendish Hills,” “Mill Mead,” “Mitchley,” “Broad Mead,” “Wild Marsh.” The latter is the largest. Beautiful cowslips used to grow here. To cross from one marsh to the other there was a ferry boat at Page’s Lock, and another at Higham Hill, where passengers were punted over at a charge of 1d. each person. The names of the common fields are “Down Field” and “Hale Field.” The above were closed on the 5th April, an

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TOTTENHAM HIGH CROSS.

In 1809 a subscription was raised to repair the Cross, which was then in a very dilapidated state. The shape was not in any way altered, but it was covered with cement, and at the same time various architectural embellishment were introduced. On each face of the octagon is a shield containing one of the letters composing the word Totenham in the old characters. The Cross was then surrounded with a curb and iron railings, which were removed a good many years ago. At the back of the Cross there

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FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL.

This was originally up to the year 1877 a Free Grammar School endowed by Sarah, Dowager Duchess of Somerset, who in 1686 bequeathed the sum of £250 for the enlargement of the school house, and a further sum of £1,100 for the purpose of extending its benefit to all children of such inhabitants of the parish of Tottenham as were not possessed of an estate, either freehold or copyhold, of the annual value of £20. The Savings Bank used to be held here every Monday evening, and was kept by Mr. Peter

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REYNARDSON’S ALMSHOUSES.

In 1685 Nicholas Reynardson, Esq., by his will, dated April 2nd, 1685, and by a codicil dated February 20th, 1688, bequeathed the sum of £2,000, with part of which he directed that an almshouse should be built for six poor aged men and six poor aged women, with a chapel; and that the residue should be laid out in lands, and for the endowment and repairs of such almshouses, and for the payment of £4 to each pensioner annually by quarterly payments, besides a gown of black frieze of 20s. value onc

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THE POUND ALMSHOUSES.

There were originally only four almshouses, but in 1847, when the Pound was removed to the waste land in The Hale, three old inhabitants, Mr. Thomas Corney, Mr. William Janson, and Mr. John Day, had three others erected at their own expense....

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STONELEYS SOUTH, NOW STONELEYS ROAD.

The building which still stands at the corner of the road was originally the Girls’ Green School, or School of Industry, and was used for this purpose until 1862, when the present buildings were erected in Somerset-road. The girls always looked very nice in their uniform, which consisted of a green dress, white tippet, apron and cap, and a coarse straw bonnet trimmed with green. The school was supported by voluntary contributions. Stoneley South, at the entrance, has not altered much in appea

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PLOUGH INN.

The old Plough Inn was a long, low building, very quaint and picturesque with gabled roof, lying back from the road, with large open space in front, and cottages down one side. The Court Leet for Tottenham was held here for a great number of years. John Brooks, the landlord, was also one of the Homage. The old inn, which was built in 1537, was taken down in 1891 and another building erected by the side of the roadway, which was then opened, and leads to the Marshes....

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BROOK STREET.

The Plymouth Brethren Chapel was built at Mr. Robert Howard’s expense. It has a burial ground on the opposite side of the street. I never remember seeing more than one tomb stone; it was to the memory of Jane Johnson, and that has lately been taken away. There was an old sweet stuff shop in front by the High-road, the floor of which was below the level of the road. Adjoining here is the block of houses and shops which are now about being taken down to widen the road for the electric tramway c

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WAVERLEY ROAD.

At the back, down the turning, there was a good sized house and large garden, with lake and bridge, in occupation of Mr. Thos. Finney. The Wesleyan Methodist Chapel was the first built in Tottenham. The lease had just expired in 1882, when it was burned down. It stood back a little distance from the road, with burial ground in front, reaching to the footpath in High-road. On this site Messrs. G. L. Wilson’s premises were built. This is the second time they have been built as there was another

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FACTORY LANE.

In 1815 a mill for winding silk was built; this failed, and in 1820 it was opened as a lace factory. This also proved unsuccessful, and in 1837 it was opened as an India rubber factory, and was the means of providing work for hundreds of people. Some years ago half of this factory and Silk Mill-terrace was sold at auction to the Licensed Victuallers’ Company. This half has lately been taken down and Pembroke-terrace, as it was afterwards called, converted into shops and Parr’s Bank....

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PEMBROKE HOUSE.

A pretty white house, with verandah covered with creepers, and large garden. The house stood back in its own grounds, and was enclosed by a brick wall and a beautiful row of chesnut and lime trees that were very much admired, as were also the sweet voices of the birds who made their nests there. This house has been pulled down and shops have been built on the spot. A good many years ago there was a very sad accident. A drove of bullocks was being driven past; one got loose, pinned Mr. Glover,

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SANCHEZ’S ALMSHOUSES.

These almshouses bearing his name, and consisting of eight tenements, were built by him in the year 1596. Four were for aged women widows, and four for aged men widowers. Each pensioner had £4 annually by quarterly payments, and there was a biennial allowance of £6 for the purchase of a gown of black frieze of 20s. value from the owners of the Stoneleigh Estate. The latter was discontinued years ago and money given instead. There was also £1 per annum recreation money for the Committee. The

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QUAKERS’ MEETING HOUSE

or Society of Friends is adjoining. It was erected in 1744, and enlarged about the year 1775, and fitted with seats for about 400 persons. Considerable additions were made in 1832. There is also a burial ground attached to it, which was added in 1803, and was closed some years back. The deceased were interred in rows without any distinction, and a plan kept which identified the spot where the departed friend was interred. There are neither grave stones nor any other monuments to mark the spo

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SCOTLAND GREEN.

In front there is what was formerly known as the Blue School, where the girls were educated free. It is now the Middle Class School. Upon a portion of the site stood the Watch House, prisoner’s cage, and John Fowler’s house, who was the Parish Beadle. This was quite sufficient at that time, and in case of more help being required, a constable was sent for to London. Then the Police Station at the High Cross was built, and the whole of the site taken for the Middle Class School. A great many

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PARK LANE, FORMERLY MARSH LANE.

Near the High-road was an old house called “The Beggars’ Lodging-house.” It was a great boon to tramps, as they found accommodation here for a very small sum. A large fire was always burning brightly in the winter evenings. The National School for Boys was built in 1841, and the Drill Hall in 1864. Here the Vestries were held for some years. There were two nurseries on the left hand side of the lane, and then on both sides fields till one came to Willoughby-lane. Here stood Willoughby House

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COOMBES CROFT HOUSE,

which in the eighteenth century was called “Coney Bee’s Croft,” was formerly the Workhouse, and quite large enough for all requirements. The deeds relating to the Parish lands were kept here, in a tin box, within an iron repository....

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EDMONTON WORKHOUSE,

which was built in 1841–2, is one of the largest in England, and none too large for present requirements. Coombes Croft was then used for several different purposes. At one time it was a Home for Little Boys, and afterwards offices for the Local Board of Health. This body was not organised until 1850, when the meetings were held at the Free Grammar School. The private improvement rate was made when the main works for the water supply and drainage were approaching completion. This the owner c

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THE DIAL HOUSE,

which has a sun dial on the side of the house, dated 1691, still stands to speak for itself....

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THE BLACK HOUSE

was the peculiar name of a very old house which formerly stood opposite White Hart-lane. It was partly built of brick and partly of stone, with large iron gates before it. This house belonged to a favourite of Henry VIII., named Hynningham, whose family are buried in the church. Henry VIII. frequently came here. In one of the rooms was an inscription, “In this chamber King Henry VIII. hath often lyen.” The remains of this house were in 1631 part of the out-offices of Mr. Gerard Gore, in who

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ST. ANN’S ROAD.

This was a very quiet road, with only a few cottages and one or two good houses on the left hand side, and fields on the right hand, as far as the four cross roads, where the Midland Railway now crosses the road....

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HERMITAGE ROAD,

leading from St. Ann’s-road to the Green-lanes, was a private road, the property of Mr. Scales. There were beautiful fields on either side, and half way up on the left stood four good houses, each standing in its own grounds. First came “Bridge House,” where Mr. Shirley Hibberd at one time resided. He was particularly fond of ivy, and had twenty-five different varieties growing in his garden. Next was “The Retreat,” and then “Vale House,” of which the last occupier was Mr. San Giorgie. He ke

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HANGER GREEN.

Opposite to this was a farm known as St. John’s Farm. A little further on there was a pretty house and large grounds, where Mr. John Robbins lived, the son-in-law of Mr. Newsam, who built St. Ann’s Church, Schools, etc. The Metropolitan Fever Hospital now stands on this site. A little further on, on the opposite side of the road, there was another farm, with cottage, having a verandah covered with white clematis which blossomed freely every year. We now return to the High-road. Sherboro Hous

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BLACK-UP OR BLACKHOPE LANE,

now called West Green-road. The grounds of the last-mentioned house extended some distance up the lane; then there were two large semi-detached houses with gardens in front and rear, belonging to, and the first occupied by Mr. John Beadnell. Then again fields and two cottages, and a small inn called “The Fountain”; then a terrace of good sized houses with large gardens, called Gloucester-terrace; then more fields to the end of the road, where stood two large semi-detached houses at the corner

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WEST GREEN.

There was a pond in the middle of the green, railed all round, with an opening for cattle to be able to get to the water. A little distance further on was an estate called Lords Grove. Facing the pond there was an old-fashioned white house called “Gothic Cottage,” with garden and fields extending some distance down Blackup-lane; then all fields till one reached a large white house with verandah covered with beautiful creepers standing in its own grounds, with meadow beyond. The last tenant an

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THE GROVE.

This was a very pretty sheltered place. There was a row of fine lime trees, and one especially beautiful chestnut tree in the middle. It was well turfed and enclosed with white posts and rails....

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GROVE HOUSE.

Years ago this house was occupied by Mr. Ardesoif, a noted cook-fighter. He was once so enraged by his bird losing his bet that he threw it on a large fire. Grove House was afterwards occupied by Mr. Thomas Smith, the then Lord of the Manor. There is no house now attached to the Manor of Tottenham. The Society of Friends afterwards established a large boys’ school there, generally known as the Quakers’ School. This is now used for the Polytechnic and the Magistrates’ Court....

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TOTTENHAM GREEN.

There was a large brick house, called “Eagle House,” which was afterwards used for a boys’ school. This was destroyed by fire, and Mr. Chassereau, the owner, had Norma-villas and Eagle-avenue erected on the site. Eaton House came next; Miss Toogood was owner and occupier. Then there was a very old-fashioned white-fronted house, which was unoccupied for a great many years, and the garden became overgrown with thistles and weeds. A Quaker lady named Coare kept a school here, and it was the sce

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DOWNHILLS.

This was the property of Rowland Stephenson, Esq., and when he died it was, in 1808, offered for sale by auction by Messrs. Skinner, Dyke, Tuckin, and Forest, at Garraway’s Coffee House, Change Alley, London, in seven lots. The house was described as “The truly desirable residence of the late Rowland Stephenson, Esq., situated at Mount Pleasant, West Green, Tottenham, on a delightful eminence, commanding rich and picturesque prospects and agreeably remove from the public roads, and forming one

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TOTTENHAM GREEN.

is the property of Sir William Curtis Baronet, the Lord of the Manor, and he gave a portion of it to the parish for the erection of Holy Trinity Church in 1829. In May, 1830, Holy Trinity, which was the Chapel of Ease to the Parish Church, was consecrated. The first minister appointed was the Rev. George Hodson Thompson. He lived at the corner of Page Green, and was succeeded by the Rev. George Brewster Twining. In the centre of the Church were benches which were free, and there were doors t

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BRUCE GROVE.

This was a quiet retired spot; the houses were all good, some very large, and nearly all were occupied by Quakers. Mr. William Fowler’s house, at the end, had beautiful grounds, the meadows extending to the end of the narrow walk leading to Bruce Castle. Flocks of rooks made their nests and found a shelter in the trees there. It was so peaceful, with fields on either side, with a low open iron railing. The only sound to be heard was the caw caw of the rooks who always seemed as if they had s

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LORDSHIP HALL.

This was the next place of interest. The grounds, nearly twelve acres in extent, were enclosed in a high brick wall, which went all round. The lodge stood at the corner of what is now Pembury-road, and through the gates one could catch a glimpse of the beautiful hydrangeas, and other flowers bordering the carriage drive, leading to the mansion, which stood not far from Lordship-lane. It was a good old house, with a fine entrance hall; it struck me as being very gloomy upstairs, the bedroom do

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BRUCE CASTLE.

Bruce Castle has always had a fascination for me, thinking of the changes that have taken place since Robert Bruce, father of Robert Bruce, King of Scotland, who died in 1303, lived in the castellated mansion that formerly occupied the site. Later on, when it came into the possession of Sir William Compton, he re-built it, and again it seems associated with Scotland, for on the Saturday after Ascension Day, in 1516, King Henry VIII. met his sister, Margaret, Queen of Scots, at “Maister Compton’

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ALL HALLOWS.

At the beginning of last Century the Parish Church, dedicated to All Saints, was the only church in Tottenham, and although smaller than at present it was large enough for the number of worshippers. But as the number of inhabitants increased, although other churches had been erected, it was necessary to enlarge it, and in 1876 the new chancel was built, north and south transepts, an organ chamber, double vestries, and a north porch added, and what was formerly the old chancel absorbed in the na

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THE PRIORY,

an old-fashioned residence adjoining the churchyard, was in the year 1620 occupied by a Mr. Fenton. On the beautifully carved ceiling of the dining-room his name appears thus: Fenton, and an illustration of a barrel or tun. This design was also found on some Dutch tiles which were part of the original hearthstone. I remember Mrs. Hannah Wakeling living here. She was the owner of “Priory Side,” “Hornchurch,” and “Bruce Lodge.” She left each house to the tenant who was living there at the tim

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THE CEMETERY.

This was opened in January, 1858, a few years after the parish purchased the ground on the north side, and since then it has been much enlarged in the other direction. Continuing along Lordship-lane, after passing Bruce Castle, on the left hand side of the road, there stood two good residences, in the first of which John Elliott Howard lived, and in the other Thomas Fox. A short distance further the substantial farmhouse “Broadwaters” occupied by John Phillips, a prominent member of the Societ

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CHURCH ROAD.

This used to be called The Nursery, as Charles Coleman had a large nursery there. The ground was afterwards used for a brickfield. Near Bruce Castle grounds was the Lancasterian School for boys, supported by voluntary contributions. Messrs. Le Gros, Thompson and Bird, crape finishers, had a factory in Love-lane. This was burnt down in the year 1860, and the business was then removed to Norwich. The manager, James Bayliss, lived in the house in the front, which is now used as a Convent School

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WHITE HART LANE.

At one time called Parsonage-lane. At the end of a turning on the right-hand side was the old Roman Catholic Chapel, which was used until the present Church was erected in the High-road. The Grange needs no description, as it still looks as it did in the days when I remember Miss Buckworth living there. After passing several good houses, one came to the Vicarage, which still stands; the senior curate, the Reverend John Saumarey Winter, lived there. Then there were two good houses, the furthe

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TOTTENHAM PARK.

The large house covered with ivy which has quite recently been pulled down, was at one time the Manor House of Pembrokes, and called The Parsonage, or Rectory House. I remember when it was called the Moated House. It was built in 1636, and was surrounded by a moat, over which was a drawbridge. In 1797 Henry Piper Sperling, Esq., purchased the Mansion House of Pembrokes, with forty-nine acres of land adjoining, and the whole of the great or rectorial tithes. Soon after he had the moat filled

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MISCELLANEOUS.

In the year 1878 Tottenham High-road was flooded from Bruce Grove to White Hart-lane. One of the sons of Mr. Gripper, of the Bell Brewery, had a boat, and rowed up and down, taking passengers at 6d. each, the money being given to the Tottenham Hospital. The Tottenham Hospital and Deaconesses’ Institution was started by Dr. Laseron in 1868. He worked indefatigably on its behalf, and people were so willing to help him that those who were unable to give money gave their jewellery. It was recogn

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TRAVELLING

was not such an easy matter when my mother was a child, and people did not expect to take the yearly holiday which is now considered a necessity. Places which now can be reached in a few hours’ time were then quite a long journey, and one had to travel either by post-chaise or stagecoach, which was pleasant for the outside passengers on a fine summer day, but anything but comfortable if the weather was cold or wet. It was very cheerful to hear the guard sounding his horn. For those who could

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