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THE HANDBOOK to the RIVERS AND BROADS of NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
THE HANDBOOK to the RIVERS AND BROADS of NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK.
by G. CHRISTOPHER DAVIES, Author of “ Norfolk Broads and Rivers ,” “ The Swan and her Crew ,” etc., etc . REVISED AND ENLARGED. eighteenth edition . JARROLD AND SONS, 3, PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON; LONDON AND EXCHANGE STREETS, NORWICH. branches: 182, king street, great yarmouth ; the library, cromer . ( All rights reserved .)...
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
Since the first appearance of this Handbook, and the larger volume on the same subject, which the preface to the first edition stated to be in contemplation, the Broad District has become highly popular. Each year the tourist stream increases, but, happily, there is still plenty of room. No doubt some of the old habitués , who liked to have the whole landscape to themselves, grumble at the change, but the less selfish persons, who happily constitute the majority, do not object to seeing a doze
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CHAPTER I. the “broad” district.
CHAPTER I. the “broad” district.
Decorative drop capital It is somewhat difficult to analyse the charm which the “Broad” District of Norfolk and Suffolk has for those who have once made its acquaintance in the only way in which an intimate knowledge of it can be gained. In a journey through it by rail, you see nothing but its flatness; walk along its roads, you see the dullest side of it; but take to its water-highways, and the glamour of it steals over you, if you have aught of the love of nature, the angler, or the artist in
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CHAPTER II. down the yare. norwich to reedham.
CHAPTER II. down the yare. norwich to reedham.
Decorative drop capital “Do you mean to say,” said Wynne, “that these Broads are worth my giving up a few days to seeing them?” “If you will give up a fortnight, I promise you that you will find it too short. You went to the Friesland Meres years ago, and enjoyed it. You will like these quite as well.” Pull’s Ferry So he promised to come for a fortnight, rather reluctantly, and when, on his arrival in Norwich, he took a preliminary canter by rail to Yarmouth, he refused to say anything about w
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CHAPTER III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.
CHAPTER III. REEDHAM TO YARMOUTH.
Decorative drop capital The next morning we were up betimes to take the last of the ebb down to Yarmouth, and catch the tide up the Bure. As there was a fresh breeze from the east, we had to tack nearly the whole of the way. At Reedham there is a swing bridge, over which the railway passes, and if the wind is foul it is always a difficult matter to sail through, particularly if the tide be against you. On the present occasion we had the tide with us; therefore, on reaching the opening of the b
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CHAPTER IV. yarmouth to acle.
CHAPTER IV. yarmouth to acle.
Decorative drop capital On going back to the yacht, we found that she was moored in the North River, or Bure, having been quanted under the two fixed bridges, and the mast was being slowly raised. The big pole masts of these river yachts are very heavy and unwieldy, and I am always glad when the operation of lowering and raising them again is safely over. Sometimes they have lead weights permanently fixed to the heel of the mast (which latter swings in a tabernacle), but generally, lumps of ba
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CHAPTER V. acle to wroxham.
CHAPTER V. acle to wroxham.
Decorative drop capital The wind, on the next morning, was from the north-west, a head wind for us, and there was little of it; so little, indeed, that we could not stem the tide, and had to quant for three miles. Then we came to the mouth of the river Thurne, leading to Hickling Broad, up which we intended to sail on our return from Wroxham. The Bure turns off sharply to the west, and as the wind gradually gained in strength, we were able to dispense with the unwelcome labour of quanting. The
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CHAPTER VI. wroxham broad.
CHAPTER VI. wroxham broad.
Decorative drop capital I had scarcely closed my eyes, it seemed to me, ere I was awakened by Wynne moving about. “What are you up to?” I cried. “I am going to paternoster for perch, and I’ll take the casting-net to get some small fry.” “Oh, dear! why can’t you wait until the morning?” “It is morning. It is four o’clock and broad daylight.” “Then go, and don’t come back until breakfast time.” And I drew the curtains over the windows, and tried to think it was quite dark, and to get to sleep ag
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CHAPTER VII. wroxham to coltishall.
CHAPTER VII. wroxham to coltishall.
Decorative drop capital The bridge at Wroxham is very narrow and low. The mast, of course, had to be lowered, and the yacht quanted under the road and railway bridges. A wherry passing under raised her mast too soon, and damaged the ornamental vane, which consisted of the inevitable figure of a Welsh girl with a high hat and holding a bunch of leeks. “There, I must have a new Welsh girl,” said the wherryman. “Why is such an emblem chosen in Norfolk, of all places?” asked Wynne. “Some thirty ye
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CHAPTER VIII. up the ant, to barton and stalham.
CHAPTER VIII. up the ant, to barton and stalham.
Decorative drop capital Wynne had undertaken the office of steward, and so far we had fared sumptuously, but as we were tidying up on Monday morning, the fact became apparent that the provision lockers were nearly empty. “The fact is,” he said, “I thought there would be a better chance of buying things, as we went along, than there appears to be, for with the exception of butter and eggs, we might as well be on the prairies. What shall we do?” Now, provisioning is a very perplexing thing, parti
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CHAPTER IX. womack broad.
CHAPTER IX. womack broad.
Decorative drop capital Being tired of fishing, we had a swim, and then dinner; and, late in the afternoon, we hoisted sail, to a stiff breeze, Wynne and the man in the cutter, and I in the lateener. They ran away from me so quickly, however, that I could not stop them at the entrance to Womack [91] Broad, as I had intended, and was obliged to go in chase of them up to Heigham Bridges. The round, bluff bows of my old lateener, designed to support the heavy mast, which raked forward over them,
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CHAPTER X. hickling broad.
CHAPTER X. hickling broad.
Decorative drop capital Heigham Bridge is a small stone one, with not much room to get through, and a little above it is the railway bridge, over which the Eastern and Midlands Railway runs, with a station not far off—Potter Heigham. Near the station is the “Falgate” Inn, where there is comfortable accommodation. A gate hangs over the inn by way of a sign, and on its bars is inscribed the following— “This gate hang high But hinder none, Refresh and pay And travel on,” The omission of the s in
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CHAPTER XI. horsey mere and somerton broad.
CHAPTER XI. horsey mere and somerton broad.
Decorative drop capital It was exhilarating work sailing over Hickling Broad, and we were very loth to leave its wind-swept waters. We had a rare run back along the channel, and over Whiteslea, and then turned sharp to the left, up the Old Meadow dyke leading to Horsey Mere. This dyke is a mile long, and of fair depth, but so narrow that people fishing on the banks had to hold up their rods as we passed, while our sail swept the tops of the reeds. Then we shot into Horsey Mere, a lake of 130
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CHAPTER XII. back to yarmouth.
CHAPTER XII. back to yarmouth.
Decorative drop capital It was two o’clock when we hoisted a reefed sail on the cutter, leaving the lateener in charge of the owner, who had joined us, and it was three o’clock when we reached Acle bridge, having done the seven miles in the hour, wind and tide with us. We left Acle at four, being much delayed in lowering and raising the mast, and reached Yarmouth (12 miles) by half-past five; so we made a pretty quick passage. We laid by the “Ale Stores” for the night, and were very careful to
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CHAPTER XIII. yarmouth to somerleyton.
CHAPTER XIII. yarmouth to somerleyton.
Decorative drop capital On reaching the yacht, after rowing back with the first of the flow, we started with two reefs down to beat over Breydon, on which the wind against the tide raised a respectable sea. There was a great deal of weight in the wind, for it was veering towards the south-west, having been north-west all night, and a strong south-west wind is generally full of puffs and squalls. Many times we had the water over the coamings of the well, and the lee plankways were always awash.
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CHAPTER XIV. from somerleyton to beccles.
CHAPTER XIV. from somerleyton to beccles.
Decorative drop capital The angling in all this part of the Waveney is extremely good, and the bream and roach are of large size. It is not nearly so much frequented as the other rivers or the upper part of the Waveney, and is practically unfished, on account of the difficulty in obtaining boats, there being no boating-station nearer than Oulton Broad, five miles away. Still, it is worth while rowing from Oulton Broad, half way to Somerleyton, for the takes of bream there lately have been wond
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CHAPTER XV. oulton broad.
CHAPTER XV. oulton broad.
Decorative drop capital In the night we were awakened by the sound of very heavy rain pattering on the deck and cabin roof, and presently we discovered that the recent very dry weather had opened the seams of the wood, and sundry persistent droppings evaded our attempts to escape them. “My nose is wearing away with one dreadful drop.” “Then open your mouth and catch it. Oh!” “What’s the matter?” “A drop went splash into my eye!” We made merry for a time, but presently it clearly became a case o
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CHAPTER XVI. ormesby and fritton.
CHAPTER XVI. ormesby and fritton.
Decorative drop capital There are still some very important Broads in Norfolk and Suffolk, which I could not mention in an account of a cruise, because they are not accessible from the navigable waters, and, as a matter of fact, I know comparatively little about them for that reason. There are the Ormesby, Filby and Rollesby Broads, lying together in a straggling group four or five miles north-eastward of Acle. Altogether, they contain 800 acres of water, but much of this is overgrown by reeds
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WHITLINGHAM.
WHITLINGHAM.
This is too close to Norwich for very good fishing, although occasionally the fish seem to head up, and good takes are to be had. Good rowing boats may be obtained at Thorpe Gardens, five minutes’ walk from the station. Omnibuses ply between the Gardens and Norwich every hour. The reach of the old river is very lovely....
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BRUNDALL
BRUNDALL
Is the station for “Coldham Hall,” at which inn visitors can be accommodated. The inn is ten minutes’ walk from the station down the river, and across the ferry. There are plenty of boats, and the place is much frequented. From here down to Buckenham Ferry there are large numbers of pike, and it is customary to row down trailing a bait behind. Roach and bream are plentiful....
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BUCKENHAM FERRY.
BUCKENHAM FERRY.
From this station you have ten minutes’ walk down to the Ferry, where boats are to be obtained, and the fishing generally is good....
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CANTLEY.
CANTLEY.
Close by the station is the “Red House” Inn, where there is good accommodation for visitors. Boats can be had. The fish, as a rule, run larger here than higher up. The water is deep and the tide swift. When the water is fairly clear, some good pike may be had....
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REEDHAM.
REEDHAM.
The “Ferry” Inn is ten minutes’ walk. Good accommodation. The bream run large, so do the perch, of which there used to be large numbers under the ferry boat . The line divides at Reedham, one part going to Yarmouth and the other to Lowestoft. There is no fishing place on the Yarmouth branch, but on the Lowestoft line there are—...
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HADDISCOE,
HADDISCOE,
whence the Cut may be fished. Boats are difficult to obtain, but the landlord of the “Bell” Inn, at St. Olave’s bridge, might procure you one. This is the station for Fritton Decoy....
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SOMERLEYTON.
SOMERLEYTON.
This would be an excellent fishing station if boats could be procured, but you cannot rely upon being able to borrow one. The porters at the swing-bridge, or the landlord of the “Duke’s Head,” might direct you where to obtain a boat. I think the latter has one or two. The bream are very large and numerous. The good fishing in this part of the river has been exemplified by Mr. Winch, of Norwich, who has taken 8 stone in a day—five bream weighing 20 lbs., and one bream weighing 6¾ lbs....
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OULTON BROAD.
OULTON BROAD.
See the last chapter for full information as to this important fishing station. Another line from Norwich leads to—...
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WROXHAM.
WROXHAM.
7 miles. The river is full of roach, bream, perch, and pike, although it is much fished. Boats at Jimpson’s or Whittaker’s, where there is also fair accommodation for visitors. The Broad is a mile and a half down stream, from the bridge. It can be fished by permission only. Tickets to fish on the Broad can be obtained through Mr. C. J. Greene, Fishing Tackle Maker, London Street, Norwich, at 2s. 6d. per boat....
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COLTISHALL.
COLTISHALL.
Two miles further. The fishing is much better here than is generally supposed, but boats are not plentiful. Enquire at the waterside who is likely to have one at liberty. The Eastern and Midlands line runs from Yarmouth through the heart of the Broad District to North Walsham, on the Norwich, Wroxham, and Cromer line. The stations from Yarmouth are—...
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ORMESBY.
ORMESBY.
A mile and a half from its Broads, about 200 acres of which are free. The fishing is as good as it can be for pike, rudd, roach, and bream. Boats at the “Eel’s Foot” and “Sportsman’s Arms.” Staying accommodation at the former....
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MARTHAM.
MARTHAM.
Not far from the river Thurne, but the next station is more convenient....
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POTTER HEIGHAM.
POTTER HEIGHAM.
Inns, the “Falgate” and “Waterman’s Arms,” where there is staying accommodation. Good boats at Applegate’s. The river Thurne and the channels through Heigham Sounds and Hickling swarm with bream, rudd, perch, roach, pike, and eels....
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CATFIELD.
CATFIELD.
The nearest station to Hickling, but not so convenient for boats....
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STALHAM.
STALHAM.
Barton Broad is within a mile and a half, where the fishing is excellent. Plenty of boats obtainable at the end of the dyke. Inns, the “Maid’s Head” and the “Swan,” both very comfortable. Stalham is a pretty village. Thence to North Walsham there is no fishing station of interest. On the direct line between Yarmouth and Lowestoft, St. Olave’s is the nearest station to Fritton....
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ACLE
ACLE
Is now a station on the new line between Norwich and Yarmouth, joining the old line at Brundall. Of places not accessible by rail, the chief is Horning Ferry, on the Bure, where there is a capital inn to stay at, kept by a good host and sportsman, Mr. Thompson, who can be relied upon to make his visitors comfortable. At Horning village, the “New” Inn deserves mention, and boats can be procured there. Horning is about four miles’ drive from Wroxham, and ten from Norwich. The reader is requested
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NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK FISHERIES ACT.
Under this Act, which was passed in 1877, certain Bye-laws have been made, with which the reader should make himself acquainted. APPROVED BYE-LAWS. Close Time—All Waters . 1. No person shall fish for, catch, take, or kill, or attempt to catch, take, or kill, otherwise than by rod and line, within the limits of the above Act, any Trout, between the 10th day of September and the 25th day of January, both days inclusive, or any other kind of fish, between the 1st day of March and the 30th day of J
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TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
TABLE OF RIVER DISTANCES.
FROM CARROW BRIDGE. Yare . Miles . To Trowse Hythe ½ ,, Thorpe Second Bridge 1½ ,, Whitlingham Ferry 2 ,, Corby’s Dyke 2¼ ,, Postwick Grove 3¼ ,, ,, Hall 3¾ ,, Wood’s End 4¼ ,, Wilde’s Cottage 4½ ,, Surlingham Ferry 5¾ ,, Coldham Hall 7¾ ,, Walpole’s Reed Bush 9 ,, Buckenham Ferry 10 ,, Hassingham Dyke 10¾ ,, Langley Dyke 11¾ To Cantley Red House 12¾ ,, Devil’s House 13¼ ,, Hardley Mill 14 ,, ,, Dyke 14¼ ,, ,, Cross 15¼ ,, Norton Staithe ,, Reedham Ferry 15½ ,, ,, End
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TIDES.
TIDES.
h. m. It is high water at Lowestoft 0 43 later than at Yarmouth Bar ,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley 3 ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, Coldham Hall 4 ,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, ,, ,, ,, Horning The Tide flows and ebbs in the Bure one hour later than at Yarmouth Bridge. Springs. Neap. The rise at Yarmouth is 6 feet 4½ feet ,, ,, ,, Lowestoft ,, 6½ ,, 5¼ ,, ,, ,, ,, Cantley ,, 2½ ,, 1½ ,, ,, ,, ,, Oulton ,, 2 ,, 1¼ ,, The T
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ROACH.
ROACH.
1. Where found at different periods of the year ? Throughout the summer the entire length of our local streams where the water is fresh and not salt or brackish; the finest fish and greatest number between Cantley and Coldham Hall, on the Yare; large numbers also in the dyke leading from Oulton Broad. In winter they appear generally to retire to the deep waters, and are sometimes found in good quantity about Thorpe Broad, and may be angled for with success in deep spots on the Bure and other w
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BREAM.
BREAM.
1. Where found at different periods of the year ? During summer, on the Yare, principally between Langley Dyke and Reedham; in winter often found in good quantity in the vicinity of Thorpe Broad and about Carrow and Trowse Hythe. On the Bure they appear to congregate in the deep waters of the Broads in winter, and make their appearance about the end of May and through the summer on the river. 2. Best periods to fish for them ? July and August. 3. What time of day at different seasons ? Good
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YACHTING.
YACHTING.
It will have been gathered from the foregoing pages that the Rivers and Broads of Norfolk and Suffolk present exceptional facilities for small-boat sailing and smooth-water yachting, better, perhaps, than any other part of England. There are two yachting clubs, the Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club and the Yare Sailing Club, the latter a very flourishing institution, furnishing four or five regattas in the year for small 4-ton yachts and open boats. There are numbers of suitable yachts for hire, b
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SHOOTING AND SKATING.
SHOOTING AND SKATING.
This district is well worth a visit in the winter time, for the wild-fowl shooting on the tidal portions of the rivers is free (of course you must not trespass on the marshes for shooting purposes, as the shooting along them is strictly preserved). The usual plan is to row along the river while your dogs work through the reeds on the bank inside the river wall, or embankment, which generally runs parallel with the rivers on each side. Flight shooting is also successfully pursued, but of course
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FAUNA OF THE BROADS.
FAUNA OF THE BROADS.
I cannot do more than cursorily mention the abundant life which teems amid the Broads. I would refer the reader, for a full account of the life of the Broads thirty years ago and now, to that charming book, worthy to be ranked with “The Complete Angler,” and “The Natural History of Selborne,” “Observations on the Fauna of Norfolk, and more particularly on the District of the Broads,” by the Rev. Richard Lubbock, M.A., a new edition of which, with suitable notes by Mr. Thomas Southwell, has late
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