Our Plan of Travel Outfitters—​Journey to Marseilles—​Departure—​"The Inevitable"—​Journey Out—​Singapore—​Leave for Kuching—​The Aline —​"Talang-Talang"—​The Sarawak River—​Kuching—​The Bazaar, &c.—​Comfortable Quarters. It was on the 13th of April, 1880, that, accompanied by an old College friend (whom throughout these pages I shall call L.), I left London for the Eastern Archipelago, via Marseilles and Singapore, our destination being Sarawak, the seat of government of Raja Brooke in

Territory of Sarawak—​History of the Country—​Raja Brooke and Muda Hasim—​Rebellions in Sarawak—​Brooke proclaimed Raja—​Chinese Insurrection—​Military and Naval Establishment—​Exports—​Progress of Sarawak—​Death of Sir James Brooke. The territory of Sarawak extends for nearly 300 miles along the south-west coast of Borneo from its southernmost boundary, Cape Datu, to Kidorong Point, its northern frontier. It is bounded on the north by Brunei, or kingdom of Borneo proper, and on its other border

Kuching—​Society—​The Club—​Amusements—​The Sarawak Gazette —​The Bazaar—​Health of Kuching—​Life in Kuching—​Rats—​Preparations for Journey to the Matang Mountain. Kuching, the capital of Sarawak, although smaller than Pontianak and other Dutch settlements on the coast of Borneo, is generally acknowledged to be the first town in Borneo so far as civilisation and comfort are concerned, and is renowned for its Bazaar, which is the best-built and cleanest in the island. There are two good roads ex

Travel in Borneo—​Travelling Boats—​Leave for Matang—​Our Crew—​Alligators—​Mosquitoes—​Matang Bungalow—​The Garden—​Ascend the Mountain—​The Waterfall—​A Nasty Jump—​View from the Summit—​Snakes—​Return to Kuching. Travelling in the south-western districts of Borneo, and indeed generally throughout the island, excepting in the far north and interior, is done in boats, the density of its forests and swampy nature of the ground rendering journeys overland in most parts of the territory next to im

The Rejang Residency—​Wild Tribes of the Interior—​Start for Rejang—​Timber Ships—​Sibu—​Attack by Katibus—​A Dinner Party—​The Fireship—​Kanowit—​"Jok"—​Kanowits' Dwellings—​Human Heads—​"Bones" and "Massa Johnson." Sarawak is divided into six districts or Residencies, each of which is under the supervision and control of a European Government officer. The latter, who is stationed at the fort established at the principal town of the district, is styled the Resident, and settles law cases, recei

Leave Kanowit—​Scenery—​War Canoes—​Arrive at Kapit—​Wild Tribes—​Kayan Burials—​Head Feast—​Lat—​His Family—​Tattooing—​The Sumpitan—​Kayan and Dyak War Dances—​The Kok-goo—​The Bock Expedition to Central Borneo—​Cannibalism—​Return to Kuching. We enjoyed a good night's rest, for the air was deliciously cool, and the noise made by the stream as it rushed past the sides of the little Ghita had a very pleasant and somnolent effect. Mosquito nets were unnecessary, none of these pests existing so f

Sport in Borneo—​The Orang-Utan—​His Habits—​Start for Sadong—​A Rough Journey—​Sadong—​The Fort and Village—​L. Capsized—​The Mines—​Our Cook—​The Abang—​Start for Mias Ground—​Our Hunt for Orang—​Lost in the Forest—​Leave for Sadong—​An Uncomfortable Night—​Small-Pox—​Manangs—​A Dyak Don Juan—​Return to Kuching. Sport, in the general acceptance of the term, is scarce indeed in Sarawak, and those persons meditating a voyage to Borneo for the purpose of obtaining it, should think twice ere they

Preparations for Departure—​Leave Sarawak—​A Squall—​A Dutch Dinner—​Batavia—​Weltereoden—​Life in Java—​Buitenzorg—​Koerapan—​Dutch Soldiers—​A Review—​Modes of Execution in the Archipelago—​The World-Wide Circus—​Return to Singapore—​Leave for Europe—​Gibraltar. Our days were now numbered in Sarawak, and we had but little time before us, as we intended making a journey to Java, the principal Dutch possession in the Eastern Archipelago, ere we returned to England. Packing up now became the orde

Cadiz Custom-House Officers—​Spanish Courtship—​Marketplace—​Leave for Seville—​Jerez de la Frontera—​Seville—​Pilate's House—​Las Delicias—​Triana—​Madrid—​Bull Fighting—​"Espadas"—​A Bull Fight—​Frascuelo—​Cruelty to Horses—​Leave for Paris—​A Stormy Passage—​Home Again—​Adieu. I left for Cadiz by the small trading steamer James Haynes three days after my arrival at Gibraltar. A friend of mine being quartered here, I stayed with him at the barracks, fortunately for myself, as the Gibraltar hot