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30 chapters
W. COPE DEVEREUX, R.N., F.R.G.S.
W. COPE DEVEREUX, R.N., F.R.G.S.
Fair Italy, the land of song and cradle of the Arts, has been so often written about, and so well described both in prose and in verse, that I feel there is a presumption in my attempting to say anything fresh of that classic land, its art treasures, and its glorious past. But within the last few years a new Italy has sprung into existence—the dream of Cavour has been realized; and, contrary to all predictions, she has evinced a union and cohesiveness so complete as to surprise all, and possibly
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CHAPTER I.ToC
CHAPTER I.ToC
Introduction—Charing Cross—Dover—Submarine Channel Tunnel—Calais—Advantages of travelling second class—Superfluous examination of luggage—Paris—Dining à la carte versus table d'hôte —Noël—An Officer's Funeral—Lyons—Scenery of the Rhone—Constant change in the landscape—Want of proper accommodation at the railway stations—Defective lighting of railway carriages. If any person is desirous of putting forward a good excuse for spending a few weeks on the continent, the climate of the British Isles at
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CHAPTER II.ToC
CHAPTER II.ToC
Arrival at Marseilles—Change in climate—The mistral—Some account of Marseilles in the past—Marseillaise hymn—Docks and harbour—Hill-side scenery—Chateau d'If—La Dame de la Garde—Military practice—St. Nazaire—An ancient church—The Exchange—Courtiers of merchandize—Sunday at home and abroad. Having left Paris at 9.40 a.m., we reached Marseilles at nearly midnight, feeling very tired, and were glad to get to the Terminus Hotel, which is comfortably close to the station. What a charming station it i
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CHAPTER III.ToC
CHAPTER III.ToC
Leaving Marseilles—Toulon—Hyères—Fréjus—Coast scenery—The Hotel Windsor—An unexpected meeting, and a pleasant walk—Isles de Lerins—The Mediterranean—Defective drainage—Mosquitos and Nocturnal Pianos—Christmas Day—Cannes—The Pepper tree—The English cemetery—Antibes—Miscalled Health Resorts—Grasse—Orange blossoms—Leaving Cannes. The mistral blew us away from Marseilles, which we left on the afternoon of the 25th by the two o'clock train for Cannes. The route lay through rocky defiles, with numerou
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CHAPTER IV.ToC
CHAPTER IV.ToC
Nice—Its persistently Italian character—Its gaming propensities—Hints about luggage—Old and New Towns—Flower-shops—A river laundry—The harbours of Nice and Villafranca—Scenery and climate of Nice—A cowardly outrage—In the Cathedral—Hotel charges—Leaving Nice. From Cannes to Nice, or Nizza, is but a short run by rail, but on reaching the latter we see at once that we have entered another country—as one of the natives epigrammatically remarked, "The Emperor Napoleon made Nice France, but God made
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CHAPTER V.ToC
CHAPTER V.ToC
The beauty-spot and plague-spot of the Riviera—Arrival at Mentone—Hotel des Isles Britanniques—English church—Her Majesty's Villa—Gardens of Dr. Bennett—Custom-house—Remarks on Mentone—A charming walk—A word about Brigands—An adventure—In the cemetery—A labour of love—A frog concert—Excursion to Monte Carlo—Lovely coast scenery—Castle of Monaco—The sombre Olive—The exodus of the Caterpillars. In travelling from Nice to Mentone you have to pass through some of the most lovely and enchanting scene
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CHAPTER VI.ToC
CHAPTER VI.ToC
Monte Carlo—In the Concert-room—The Gambling-saloons—The Tables—The moth and the candle—The true story of Monte Carlo—An International grievance and disgrace. We reached Monte Carlo in time for the grand concert at two o'clock. Passing through the delightful gardens surrounded by cafés , we entered the dazzling and gorgeous concert-room. There was nothing to pay. Plush-liveried servants handed us to our seats, and we enjoyed their soft luxuriance, admired the handsome and profuse decorations, an
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CHAPTER VII.ToC
CHAPTER VII.ToC
Scenery en route —Bordighera—Pegli—Genoa—Its magnificent situation—The grandeur of its past—The harbour—Streets—Palaces—Churches—Cathedral of San Lorenzo—Sacred Catina—Chapel of St. John the Baptist—Italian Beggars—Sudden change in the atmosphere—The Campo Santo—Shops of Genoa—Marble promenade—City of precipices—Climate of Genoa. After our visit to Monte Carlo, we returned to our hotel at Mentone, which we left early on the following day for Genoa, our next halting-place. The country around Vent
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CHAPTER VIII.ToC
CHAPTER VIII.ToC
Pisa—Hotel Victoria—Pisan weather—The poet Shelley—Historic Pisa—Lung 'Arno—San Stefano di Canalia—Cathedral—Baptistery—Leaning Tower—Campo Santo—The divine angels—The great chain of Pisa—Leghorn—Smollett's grave—Poste-restante—A sweet thing in Beggars—Ugolino's Tower—Departure for Rome. We arrived at Pisa towards evening, and got into comfortable quarters at the Hotel Victoria, a quiet house, reminding us of the Swiss hotels in its style of entertainment. We soon had a nice little dinner set be
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CHAPTER IX.ToC
CHAPTER IX.ToC
Arrival in Rome—Hotel de la Ville—The Corso—The Strangers' Quarter—Roman Guides—View from the Capitol—"How are the Mighty fallen!"—The sculpture-gallery of the Capitol—The Dying Gladiator—The Venus—Hawthorne's Marble Faun—Bambino Santissimo—The Mamertine Prison—The Forum—Palaces—The Coliseum—Longfellow's "Michael Angelo." Travelling by the slow second-class train, we did not arrive at Rome until nearly 11 p.m.; yet the journey proved interesting, especially as we approached our destination. The
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CHAPTER X.ToC
CHAPTER X.ToC
Trajan's Gate—The Appian Way—The English Cemetery—Catacombs of St. Calixtus—Reflections on the Italian seat of government—Churches—S. Paolo Fuori le Mura—Santa Maria Maggiore—S. Pietro in Vincoli—"Was St. Peter ever in Rome?"—Fountains of Rome—Dell' Aqua Felice—Paulina—Trevi—Rome's famous Aqueducts—Beggars—Priests. Trajan's Gate, near the Coliseum, is a beautiful piece of architecture. No Jew can ever be prevailed upon to pass beneath it—at which we can hardly wonder, for it is like forcing them
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CHAPTER XI.ToC
CHAPTER XI.ToC
Papal Rome—Narrow streets—St. Angelo—Benvenuto Cellini—St. Peter's—Pietà Chapel—The Dead Christ—Tomb of the Stuarts—Anniversary of St. Peter's—Grand ceremonial—Cardinal Howard—The Vatican—Pictures—Pauline and Sistine Chapels—"The Last Judgment"—Pinacoteca—Raphael's "Transfiguration"—The Madonna—Christian Martyrs—Sculptures—Tapestries—Leo XIII.—Italian Priesthood—St. John Lateran—Marvellous legends and relics—Native irreverence to sacred edifices. "The Papal City," says Howels, "contrives at the
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CHAPTER XII.ToC
CHAPTER XII.ToC
Excursion to Tivoli—Sulphur baths—Memories—Temple of the Sybil—River Anio—Lovely scenery—Back to Rome—Post-office—Careless officials—The everlasting "Weed"—Climate of Rome—Discomforts and disappointments—Young Italy—Leo XIII.—Italian Politics—Cessation of Brigandage—The new city—American church— Italian Times —Departure for Naples—Regrets—The Three Taverns—A picturesque route—Naples by night. One morning we took the steam tramcar to Tivoli. I think there was one first and one second-class carria
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CHAPTER XIII.ToC
CHAPTER XIII.ToC
Naples—Bristol Hotel—Via Roma—King Bomba's time—Deterioration of the Neapolitans—Museum—Churches—The Opera-house—English and Italian beauty—Aquarium—Vesuvius—Excursion to Pompeii—Portici—A novel mode of grooming—The entombed city—Its disinterment—Museum, streets, and buildings—Remarks—A cold drive. The first thing we experienced on reaching Naples was the inveterate habit of begging and cheating among the lower classes. Our carriage-driver began by asking three times the amount of the usual fare
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CHAPTER XIV.ToC
CHAPTER XIV.ToC
Unprecedented cold of 1883—Departure from Naples—Virgil's Tomb—Journey to Messina—Italy's future—Scylla and Charybdis—Beautiful Messina—The Electrico —Malta—Knight Crusaders—Maltese society—An uncommon fish—An earthquake at sea—Journey to Palermo—Picturesque scenery—Etna—Among the mountains—The lights of Palermo. There seems to have been quite an unprecedented winter in the Mediterranean this year (1883). Marseilles, Cannes, Nice, Mentone, Genoa, and other places, were all affected by the extrem
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CHAPTER XV.ToC
CHAPTER XV.ToC
Palermo—Oriental aspects—Historical facts—Royal Palace—Count Roger—The Piazzi Planet—The Palatine Chapel—Walk to Monreale—Beauty of the Peasantry—Prickly pears—The "Golden Shell"—Monreale Cathedral—Abbey and Cloisters—English church—Palermo Cathedral—Churches—Catacombs of the Capuchins—Gardens—Palermo aristocracy—The Bersaglieri—Sicilian life and characteristics—Climate and general features. Palermo, formerly Panomus or All Port, and originally a Greek settlement, is situated in a beautiful fert
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CHAPTER XVI.ToC
CHAPTER XVI.ToC
Annexation of Nice and Savoy—Garibaldi's protest—A desperate venture—Calatafimi—Catania—Melazzo—Entry into Naples—Gaeta—The British Contingent—Departure from England—Desertion—Arrival in Naples— Colonel "Long Shot"—Major H—— 's imaginary regiment—Dispersion of the British Contingent. On April 1st, 1860, of all days in the year, was consummated the annexation of Nice and Savoy to France. Napoleon III. had liberated Lombardy from the Austrian yoke, and handed it over to Victor Emmanuel. As the "ho
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CHAPTER XVII.ToC
CHAPTER XVII.ToC
Floods in France—London—Back to the South—Marseilles—Italian Emigrant passengers—A death on board—French impolitesse —Italian coast scenery at dawn—Unlimited palaver—Arrival in Leghorn—The Lepanto —Departure—"Fair Florence"—The Arno—Streets—Palaces—San Miniato—The grand Duomo—The Baptistery—Ghiberti's Bronze Gates. We had a very rough passage to Marseilles, and arrived five hours after time. I only stopped here one night, and hurried on through Paris to London. The lowlands of France were still
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CHAPTER XVIII.ToC
CHAPTER XVIII.ToC
Santa Croce—San Lorenzo— Day and Night —Picture-galleries—The Tribune— Venus de' Medici —Excursion to Fiesole—Ancient Amphitheatre—Aurora Café —Climate of Florence—Heavy hotel charges—Departure—Bologna sausages—Venice. The church of Santa Croce—the Westminster Abbey of Italy—possesses great interest to every classical student and lover of art and genius. It is situated within a few minutes' walk of the Cathedral in its own piazza, in the centre of which stands the striking monument and statue of
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CHAPTER XIX.ToC
CHAPTER XIX.ToC
Arrival in Venice—The Water City—Gondola traffic—Past glories—Danieli's Royal Hotel—St. Mark's Piazza—The Sacred Pigeons—St. Mark's—Mosaics—The Holy Columns—Treasures—- The Chian Steeds—The modern Goth. Arriving at the station, our luggage was quickly carried to the canal-side, where there were numbers of gondoliers awaiting us with their hearse-like gondolas, which, as Byron describes in one of his letters, "glide along the water, looking blackly just like a coffin clapt in a canoe, where none
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CHAPTER XX.ToC
CHAPTER XX.ToC
A water-excursion—The Bridge of Sighs—Doge's Palace—Archæological Museum—The Rialto—The streets of Venice—Aids to disease—Venetian Immorality—The Arsenal—Nautical Museum—Trip to Lido—Glass works—Venetian evenings—The great Piazza—Scene on the Piazzetta—Farewell to Venice. Stepping into a gondola one sunny day, we glided past the marble palaces, at the landing-stages of which Venetian "water-carriages" were moored. We sped down the Grand Canal, passing under the great Rialto with a thought of the
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CHAPTER XXI.ToC
CHAPTER XXI.ToC
Leaving Venice—Hervey's Lament—Scenery en route —Padua—Associations of the past—A brief history of Padua, and the House of Carrara—General appearance of the town—Giotto's Chapel—His beautiful frescoes—Character of Giotto's work—The Cathedral—Palazzo della Ragione—The Wooden Horse—St. Antonio—The Hermitage—The Fallen Angels—The University and its students—Ladies of Padua—Situation of the city—An old bridge—Climate. The silvery-voiced bells of Venice chimed sweetly over the waters as we left her,
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CHAPTER XXII.ToC
CHAPTER XXII.ToC
Journey from Padua—The great Quadrilateral—Historic Verona—Hotel due Torri—Recent inundations—Poetic Verona—House of the Capulets—Juliet's tomb—Streets and monuments—Cathedral—Roman amphitheatre—Shops—Veronese ladies—Departure—Romantic journey—Lake Garda—Disenzano—Brescia. The route between Padua and Verona was not particularly interesting, until nearing the latter, when we were able to form some idea of the vastness of its military works. This city, combined with Peschiera, Mantua, and Legnano,
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CHAPTER XXIII.ToC
CHAPTER XXIII.ToC
Arrival in Milan—Railway station—Tram carriages—History and present condition—The Cathedral—Irreverence of Italian Priests—The Ambrosian Liturgy—Sunday school—S. Carlo Borromeo—Relics—A frozen flower-garden—View from the tower. Arriving at Milan shortly before dusk, we drove at once to the Hotel de France, where we had been assured we should find cleanliness and moderate charges. It is very conveniently situated at the head of the Corso Vittorio Emmanuele, near the Cathedral, and it was certainl
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CHAPTER XXIV.ToC
CHAPTER XXIV.ToC
Milan social and charitable—How to relieve our Poor—Leonardo's "Last Supper"—Condition of churches in Italy—Santa Maria delle Grazie—La Scala Picture-galleries—St. Ambrogio—Ambrosian Library—Public gardens—Excursion to the Lakes—Monza—Como—Lake scenery—Bellagio—American rowdyism. One soon becomes attached to Milan, it is so bright and clean, and the air so pure and bracing; the country around abounds in beautiful lake scenery, most enjoyable for trips and excursions. The means of moving from pla
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CHAPTER XXV.ToC
CHAPTER XXV.ToC
Climate of Milan—Magenta—Arrival in Turin—Palazzo Madama—Chapel of the Holy Napkin—The lottery fever—View from the Alpine Club—Superga—Academia delle Scienze—Departure—Mont Cenis railway—The great tunnel—Modane—Farewell to Italy. Before leaving Milan, I should like to say a word on its healthfulness. An eminent medical man, recently writing on the subject, says, "On account of the neighbourhood of Milan to the Alps, its climate in winter is cold and damp, and occasionally foggy. The irrigation o
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CHAPTER XXVI.ToC
CHAPTER XXVI.ToC
From Modane to Paris—Lovely scenery—St. Michel—St. Jean de Maurienne—Epierre—Paris—Notre Dame—French immorality—La Manche—"Dear old foggy London"—Reflections and conclusion. After a thorough examination of our luggage by the French authorities, we leave Modane for Paris, a very powerful engine taking us in tow. At Modane the scenery is very grand: fine waterfalls, rocky mountains with great pine forests, and their slopes sometimes enlivened by the pink blossom of the almond tree—a capital place
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
The London Garibaldian Excursion Volunteers. The following, printed on Red Cards, was issued throughout London and many of the larger towns:— " Card of Membership. "EXCURSION TO SOUTH ITALY. "A select party of English Excursionists intend to visit South Italy. The Excursionists will be furnished with means of self-defence, and, with a view of recognizing each other, will be attired in a picturesque and uniform costume. "General Garibaldi has liberally granted the excursionists a free passage to
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KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
1, Paternoster Square, London....
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KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH & CO.'S PUBLICATIONS.
ADAMSON, H. T., B.D. — The Truth as It Is In Jesus. Crown 8vo, 8s. 6d. The Three Sevens. Crown 8vo, 5s. 6d. The Millennium ; or, the Mystery of God Finished. Crown 8vo, 6s. A. K. H. B. — From a Quiet Place. A New Volume of Sermons. Crown 8vo, 5s. ALLEN, Rev. R., M.A. — Abraham: his Life, Times, and Travels, 3800 years ago. With Map. Second Edition. Post 8vo, 6s. ALLIES, T. W., M.A. — Per Crucem ad Lucem . The Result of a Life. 2 vols. Demy 8vo, 25s. A Life's Decision. Crown 8vo, 7s. 6d. AMOS, Pr
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