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A Journey to Ohio in 1810
A Journey to Ohio in 1810
As Recorded in the Journal of Margaret van Horn Dwight Edited with an Introduction by Max Farrand New Haven Yale University Press Copyright, 1912, by Yale University Press Printed in the United States of America First published, October, 1912 Second printing, December, 1912 Third printing, December, 1913 Fourth printing, April, 1920 Fifth printing, October, 1933 All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, in any form (except by reviewers for the public press), with
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
"If it be true that good wine needs no bush, 'tis true that a good play needs no epilogue;" and Rosalind might well have added that a good story needs no prologue. The present journal is complete in itself, and it is such a perfect gem, that it seems a pity to mar its beauty by giving it any but the simplest setting. There are many readers, however, with enough human interest to wish to know who Rosalind really was, and to be assured that she "married and lived happily ever after." That is the r
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Milford Friday Eve. at Capt Pond's.
Milford Friday Eve. at Capt Pond's.
Shall I commence my journal, my dear Elizabeth, with a description of the pain I felt at taking leave of all my friends, or shall I leave you to imagine?—The afternoon has been spent by me in the most painful reflections & in almost total silence by my companions- I have thought of a thousand things unsaid, a thousand kindnesses unpaid with thanks that I ought to have remembered more seasonably; and the neglect of which causes me many uneasy feelings- my neglecting to take leave of Sally
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Sunday eve—
Sunday eve—
This morning Susannah came & invited us to attend meeting- we at first refused but I afterwards chang'd my mind, & "took a notion" (as Susannah told her friends to whom she did me the honour to introduce me) to go- so taking an apple to eat on the road we set out for the church- It was "situated on an eminence" but was a small old wooden building-The minister; who I found was brother to M r Fisher, Susannah told me was not very well liked by some "he hadn't so good a gait to deli
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October 22- Monday- Cook's inn— County West Chester—
October 22- Monday- Cook's inn— County West Chester—
I never will go to New Connecticut with a Deacon again, for we put up at every byeplace in the country to save expence - It is very grating to my pride to go into a tavern & furnish & cook my own provision- to ride in a wagon &c. &c- but that I can possibly get along with- but to be oblig'd to pass the night in such a place as we are now in, just because it is a little cheaper, is more than I am willing to do- I should even rather drink clear rum out of the wooden
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Tuesday Noon- Ferry House near State Prison-
Tuesday Noon- Ferry House near State Prison-
It has been very cold & dusty riding to day— We have met with no adventure yet, of any kind— We are now waiting at the ferry house to cross the river as soon as wind & tide serve- The white waves foam terribly how we shall get across I know not, but I am in great fear- If we drown there will be an end of my journal——...
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Hobuck, Wednesday Morn-Buskirck's Inn—
Hobuck, Wednesday Morn-Buskirck's Inn—
After waiting 3 or 4 hours at the ferry house, we with great difficulty cross'd the ferry & I, standing brac'd against one side of the boat involuntarily endeavouring to balance it with my weight & groaning at every fresh breeze as I watch'd the side which almost dipt in the water- & the ferrymen swearing at every breath- M r , M rs & Miss Wolcott viewing the city and vainly wishing they had improv'd the time of our delay to take a nearer view—— At length we reach
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Springfield-New Jersey- Pierson's Inn-Wedy-PM 4 oclock-
Springfield-New Jersey- Pierson's Inn-Wedy-PM 4 oclock-
"What is every body's business is no body's" for instance- it is nobody's business where we are going, yet every body enquires- every toll gatherer & child that sees us—— I am almost discouraged- we shall never get to New Connecticut or any where else, at the rate we go on- We went but eleven miles yesterday & 15 to day— Our Waggon wants repairing & we were oblig'd to put up for the night at about 3 oclock.—— I think the country so far, much pleasanter than any part of Co
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Friday morn- Chester N J.
Friday morn- Chester N J.
We left Springfield yesterday about nine oclock & came on to Chester about 22 miles from Spring d ——Patience & perseverance will get us to N C in time-but I fear we shall winter on our way there, for instead of four weeks, I fear we shall be four times four—— We found an excellent tavern here compar'd with any we have yet found, & we had for the first time clean sheets to sleep in- We pass'd thro' Morristown yesterday, & 3 small villages- one called Chatham I do n
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Mansfield-N J-Sat-morn October 27-
Mansfield-N J-Sat-morn October 27-
We yesterday travell'd the worst road you can imagine- over mountains & thro' vallies- We have not I believe, had 20 rods of level ground the whole day- and the road some part of it so intolerably bad on every account, so rocky & so gullied, as to be almost impassable- 15 miles this side Morristown, we cross'd a mountain call'd Schyler or something like it- We walk'd up it, & M rs W told us it was a little like some of the mountains only not half so bad—indeed every diffi
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Pennsylvania- Saturday eve- 2 miles from Bethlehem- Hanover- Oct 27th
Pennsylvania- Saturday eve- 2 miles from Bethlehem- Hanover- Oct 27th
Before I write you anything I will tell you where & how we are- We are at a dutch tavern almost crazy- In one corner of the room are a set of dutchmen talking singin & laughing in dutch so loud, that my brain is almost turn'd- they one moment catch up a fiddle & I expect soon to be pulled up to dance- I am so afraid of them I dare hardly stay in the house one night; much less over the sabbath- I cannot write so good night—...
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Sunday Morn-
Sunday Morn-
I have hesitated a long time whether I ought to write or not, & have at length concluded I may as well write as anything else, for I cannot read or listen to Deacon W who is reading- for I am almost distracted. We have determin'd (or rather M r W has & we must do as he says) to spend the Sabbath among these wicked wretches- It would not be against my conscience to ride to day rather than stay here, for we can do no good & get none- & how much harm they may do us I
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Sunday eve- Sundown-
Sunday eve- Sundown-
I can wait no longer to write you, for I have a great deal to say- I should not have thought it possible to pass a Sabbath in our country among such a dissolute vicious set of wretches as we are now among—I believe at least 50 dutchmen have been here to day to smoke, drink, swear, pitch cents, almost dance, laugh & talk dutch & stare at us- They come in, in droves young & old- black & white- women & children- It is dreadful to see so many people that you c
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Monday morn-October 29-
Monday morn-October 29-
It rains & we shall have a dismal day I am afraid-M r W's harness last night was very much injur'd by being chew'd to pieces by a cow- I have broken my parasol handle a little, but it will not much injure it-I have a bad cold to day- which I know not how I have taken- I more than ever wish to reach Warren—...
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Pennsylvania- Monday-eve- A Dutchman's inn- I dont know where. Palks County-or some thing like it—
Pennsylvania- Monday-eve- A Dutchman's inn- I dont know where. Palks County-or some thing like it—
We have only pass'd thro' 2 small towns to day, Allenstown & Kluztown- The former is about 3 miles from Hannover, where we spent the sabbath, & 6 from Bethlehem- Before we enter'd the town, we cross'd the Lehi in 2 places- It was not deep, & we forded it to save time & expence - It runs I believe through Bethlehem or at the side of it & is a very small river- Allentown is not a pleasant place-The houses are almost all stone- It contains 2 small stone churc
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Wednesday Octber 31st Highdleburg-Penn-
Wednesday Octber 31st Highdleburg-Penn-
We pass'd through Reading yesterday which is one of the largest & prettiest towns I have seen-We stopt about 2 hours in the town, & I improved my time in walking about to see it- I went into the stores enquiring for a scissor case- Almost every one could talk english- but I believe the greatest part of them were dutch people- As soon as we left Reading, we cross'd the Schuylkill- It was not deeper than the Lehi, & we rode thro' it in our waggon. A bridge was begun over it
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Wednesday Eve- Miller's town- Penn- Oct-31st
Wednesday Eve- Miller's town- Penn- Oct-31st
We have come 24 miles to day, & just begin to shorten the distance between Pittsburgh & us, & to increase it between Phildelphy (as the dutchmen call it,) & us- It has for a long time been 250 miles to Pitts g & 60 to Phil hia - but is now 218 to one & more than 80 to the other— It began snowing this morning which rendered our ride more unpleasant than before- M r W has continued just as he was in the morning- scarcely a word has been spoken by any
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Harrisburg- P- Thursday- Eve-November-1st 1810-
Harrisburg- P- Thursday- Eve-November-1st 1810-
It has been snowing fast all the afternoon & we found it very difficult travelling & were oblig'd to put up just in the edge of the town- It was M r W's intention to cross the Susquehannah which is the other side the town- we shall not pass thro' it- We cross'd the Sweet Arrow, a little river about 8 miles from the Susquehannah— we cross'd it in our waggon-M r Jeremiah Rees is our landlord- his wife is sick with a fever arising from the Hives at first- He has a sister who seems t
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Sunday eve- East pensboro' township- P-
Sunday eve- East pensboro' township- P-
We left M r Rees' yesterday ten oclock- & after waiting some time at the ferry house, cross'd the Susquehanna with considerable difficulty- The river is a mile wide & so shallow that the boat would scrape across the large stones so as almost to prevent it from proceeding- We only came 8 miles- the riding was awful- & the weather so cold that I thought I should perish riding 4 miles- This will do well for us, 8 miles in 3 days- We were to have seen the mountains yesterday,
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10 miles West of Carlisle- Penn-Monday Nov-5th-
10 miles West of Carlisle- Penn-Monday Nov-5th-
We came but a little peice as the Dutchmen say, to day, & are in a most curious place to night- If possible I will describe it- It is a log hut built across the road from the tavern, for movers- that the landlord need not be bother'd with them— Had it been possible for our horses to have reached another inn we should not have staid with the cross old dutch fellow-we have a good fire, a long dirty table, a few boards nailed up for a closet, a dozen long boards in one side & as man
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Tuesday night- Nov-6th-
Tuesday night- Nov-6th-
We have only counted 17 miles to day although the riding has been much better than for several days past- We stopt in Shippenburgh at noon- The town contains only one street a mile & a half in length & very thickly built- The street is some part of it pleasant, & some part dirty— I saw in it a handsome young gentleman who was both a dutchman & Pennsylvanian, yet in an hour & half I did not hear him make use of a single oath or prophane word- It was a remar
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Jennyauter-P—Wednesday 2 oclock P M-between 2 brothers——
Jennyauter-P—Wednesday 2 oclock P M-between 2 brothers——
This morning we cross'd the first mountain call'd first brother, & are in an inn between the first & second brother; the latter we are soon to ascend-The first m-n is 3½ miles over,- better road than we expected- but bad enough to tire the horses almost to death- We met & were overtaken by a number of people— We all walk'd the whole distance over- I did not stop at all to rest till I reach'd the top- I was then oblig'd to wait for some of them to overtake me, as I had out
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Fannitsburg- Penn- McAllen's Inn-Wednesday night- Nov- 6th-
Fannitsburg- Penn- McAllen's Inn-Wednesday night- Nov- 6th-
We have over come 2 mountains to day- & are between the 2 d & 3 d brothers- We walked over it-I have walked about 8 miles to day & feel as much fatigued as I have almost ever been in my life- It was 4 long miles over- We met a number of waggons on it- but no other travellers- This is a very small but pretty place- The 3 first m-ns are very near each other- the 4 th is 40 or 50 miles distant—They are higher than I expected, & make a formidable appearance- It has be
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Peach Orchard, P- Thursday night-Phelps' Tavern—
Peach Orchard, P- Thursday night-Phelps' Tavern—
I do not feel to night, my dear Elizabeth, as if I should ever see you again- 3 mountains & more hundreds of miles part us; & tho' I cannot give up the idea of returning, I cannot think of traversing this road again- If I live to return I will wait till the new turnpike is finished— We cross'd the last brother this morning, & found the greater part of it, better than the other two- but about 60 rods near the top it was excessively steep— We found a house at the foot of th
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Sunday night.
Sunday night.
About sunset, we left the baker's & came down to the Creek, but found it was impossible to get over the waggon, & the road was so intolerable between the place we had left & the creek, that we could not go back, & what to do, it took a long time to determine; but at length M r W concluded we had better come over to a dirty tavern this side, & let Erastus sleep in the wagon— The stream runs so fast, that we did not dare cross it alone, as there was nothing
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Novbr-12th Monday night- Nail Shop-on the 4th Mountain
Novbr-12th Monday night- Nail Shop-on the 4th Mountain
We have got 8½ miles on our journey to day, & now it rains again— If I could describe to you our troubles from roads, waggoners & creeks, I would,- but it is impossible— The waggoners set out just before we did & the bad one being foremost has taken all the pains in his power to hinder our progress, by driving as slow as possible & stopping every other moment- The road was too narrow to pass them, unless they would turn out for us- all but one did, but he swore he
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Tuesday eve- Nov- 13th- 4 miles east of Bedford- Penn-
Tuesday eve- Nov- 13th- 4 miles east of Bedford- Penn-
We have at length escap'd the waggoners & Mr Beach- The former did not trouble us last night at all in the night- When we went to bed they watch'd us narrowly, & after we were in bed we heard them talking about us, enquiring of each other where we slept &c- We were in the room with M r & M rs Wolcott, directly over the room they were in, but still I felt afraid of them- The worst one is quite mad, & says he intends if possible, to give us more trouble than
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Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford
Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford
We cross'd the Juniaatta again to day, with a great deal of trouble, after waiting on its banks about 3 hours- It is astonishing how the last week's rain, rais'd every stream & overflow'd every place-The like here, has not been known for 30 years it is said— A waggoner last week, with 4 horses, was drown'd crossing a creek- He was advis'd by those who were by, not to venture- & answer'd "he would be damn'd to hell if he did not cross it"- he made the attempt & in a few mi
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Thursday night— Allegany Mtn Nov- 16-
Thursday night— Allegany Mtn Nov- 16-
We have had a warm & pleasant day till towards night, when it began to rain, as it has done every day for a fortnight- We are now at a tavern half a mile from the top of the Allegany Mt-this Mountain is 14 miles over- At the highest part of it is a most beautiful prospect of mountains- 5 or 6 ridges one after the other— We clamber'd up a high rock near to the highest part, but found the prospect little better than the one from the road- I wish I could describe it to you- We have had no p
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Friday night- Allegany Mtn—
Friday night- Allegany Mtn—
After a comfortable nights rest, we set out on foot to reach the height of the m tn - It rain'd fast for a long time, & at length began snowing- We found the roads bad past description,- worse than you can possibly imagine- Large stones & deep mud holes every step of the way- We were oblig'd to walk as much as we possibly could, as the horses could scarcely stir the waggon the mud was so deep & the stones so large—— It has grown so cold that I fear we shall all perish tom
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Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn-
Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn-
We came but 9 or 10 miles to day, & are now near the 6 th Mountain- in a tavern fill'd with half drunken noisy waggoners— One of them lies singing directly before the fire; proposing just now to call for a song from the young ladies—— I can neither think nor write he makes so much noise with his love songs ; I am every moment expecting something dreadful & dare not lay down my pen lest they should think me listening to them- They are the very worst wretches that ever liv'd, I do
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Sunday eve— Nov-19th— Foot of Laurel Hill—Penn—
Sunday eve— Nov-19th— Foot of Laurel Hill—Penn—
I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world— He is either mad or a fool— I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I can make a writer— He is the most rating, ranting fellow— I wish you could hear him——I begin to think him mad— His name is Smith— He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio—— I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly craz
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Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-
Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-
Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd— I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains— We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M tn this afternoon- It is 5 miles over—12 miles we have come to day— There
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Novbr 21st Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-
Novbr 21st Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-
We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles— Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the D r & his father-M r & M rs W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again— The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals,- as we were the night before, was very welcome— The
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Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-
Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-
Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable addition to our party— We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented M r W- from stopping at a private house, which we pass'd- I did not think of his wishing it till M rs J-mentioned it, I then set
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Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-
Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-
One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our journey's end— Yesterday we came about 3 miles— After coming down an awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while M r W-was attempting to unharness them, & M rs W- & Susan were on the bank, calling for help— I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but w
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Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'g- Penn-
Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'g- Penn-
This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that little distance-M r W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep it from lying down— We could not ride at all & stopt at the first tavern we came to—We are afraid the horse will die & then what will become of us?—— I am more than ever discouraged- Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out
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Novbr 26- Saturday night- 3½ miles beyond Pittsburg-
Novbr 26- Saturday night- 3½ miles beyond Pittsburg-
Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, M r W- found he had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon— M r W- came about an hour after—— After getting well warm, Susan & I were going out to view the town, when M r W- came & hurried us away, as he wished to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is no
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Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn-
Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn-
I have had no opport y of writing you for 3 days-before now- We set out in the rain on Monday, & came on 13 miles- to a hut- with a sign up call'd a tavern- & such a place!- I found the people belong'd to a very ancient & noble family- They were first & second cousins to his Satanic Majesty - I could but wonder that he should suffer them to lead so laborious a life, for they are among his most faithful friends & subjects— Probably they are more useful to h
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Wednesday eve—
Wednesday eve—
The house had only one room in it— There was a number of travellers & we got but one bed- that was straw or something harder- The pillow case had been on 5 or 6 years I reckon , so I pin'd over my handkerchief- & put night gown over my frock—We rose an hour before day break, got breakfast & set out in the snow for another hut- We rode several miles on the Northern bank of the Ohio- We saw a very large rock containing a great many names-we added ours to the number— The roa
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Thursday eve-
Thursday eve-
10 miles as usual has been our days ride— I have not walk'd my 9 miles, but I walk'd as much as I could- We are in a comfortable house before an excellent fire- It is snowing very fast— Friday morning we set out early with the hope of getting to Youngstown at night & to Warren to night, but 4 miles from Y——n, the horses were so tir'd they would not stir, so we stopt at a private house for the night, an hour before sun down— We had been in the house but a little time, when Susan look'd ou
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