An English Girl's First Impressions Of Burmah
Beth Ellis
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AN ENGLISH GIRL'SFIRST IMPRESSIONSOF BURMAH. BY BETH ELLIS.
AN ENGLISH GIRL'SFIRST IMPRESSIONSOF BURMAH. BY BETH ELLIS.
" 'Tis true 'tis strange, but Truth Is always strange; stranger sometimes than Fiction. " Wigan: R. PLATT, 17, Wallgate . London: SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT & CO., Ltd. 1899. EASTWARD HO! PASSING THROUGH THE SUEZ CANAL DEDICATED TO T. E....
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Introduction.
Introduction.
Towards the close of my visit to Burmah I was dining one night at a friend's house in Rangoon, when my neighbour, a noted member of the I. C. S. suddenly turned to me and asked me if it was my intention to write a book. At my prompt reply in the negative he seemed astonished, and asked, what then did I intend to do with my life? I had never looked at the matter in that light before, and felt depressed. It has always been my ambition to do at Rome as the Romans do, and if, as my questioner clearl
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Chapter I.—THE VOYAGE.—
Chapter I.—THE VOYAGE.—
"Who spoke of things beyond my knowledge and showed me many things I had never seen before." "For to admire, and for to see, and for to behold the world so wide."—(Rudyard Kipling.) —— "I am not naturally a coward, except when I am afraid; at other times I am as brave as a lion." It is an unfortunate state of existence, but such it is. From my babyhood I have been known to my friends and relations as one who might be confidently expected to behave in a most terror-stricken manner on all occasion
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Chapter II.—RANGOON.—
Chapter II.—RANGOON.—
"Oh! the Land of Pagodas and Paddy fields green, Is Burmah, dear Burmah you know." —— This is not a book on "Burmah," but an account of my impressions of Burmah; therefore, for all matters concerning which I had no original impressions, such as its history, its public buildings, the scenery, the life and condition of the natives, its resources, and its future, I refer both the gentle and ungentle reader to the many books on the subject which have appeared during the past few years. My first and
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Chapter III.—THE ROAD TO MANDALAY.—
Chapter III.—THE ROAD TO MANDALAY.—
—— The distance by rail from Rangoon to Mandalay is 386 miles, and it takes twenty-two hours to accomplish the journey. Trains, like everything else in this leisurely country, are not given to hurrying themselves. "Hasti, hasti, always go hasti" is the motto for Burmah. As an example of the unintelligible nature of the language I may explain that "Hasti" means "slow!" It is a pleasant journey however, for the carriages are most comfortable, and the scenery through which the rail passes affords p
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Chapter IV.—THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS.—
Chapter IV.—THE JOURNEY TO THE HILLS.—
—— We left Mandalay at half-past three in the morning, (our heavy baggage having preceded us in bullock carts the night before) and with our bedding and hand baggage packed with ourselves into a "ticca gharry," we started at that unearthly hour on our seventeen miles drive to the foot of the hills, where our ponies awaited us. As we left the last lights of the town behind us, and drove out into the dreary looking country beyond, I was filled with a mixture of elation and alarm, but when my broth
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Chapter V.—AN UP-COUNTRY STATION.—
Chapter V.—AN UP-COUNTRY STATION.—
"Far from the madding crowd's ignoble strife."—(Gray.) —— I daresay that Remyo is very like other small up-country stations in Burmah, but to me it appeared to be the very end of the earth, so different was it from all I had expected. It stands in a small valley, surrounded by low jungle-clad hills. The clearing is perhaps three miles long by one and-a-half wide, but there always appeared to be more jungle than clearing about the place, so quickly does the former spread. The Station is traversed
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Chapter VI.—THE EUROPEAN INHABITANTS.—
Chapter VI.—THE EUROPEAN INHABITANTS.—
—— The European population of Remyo is small, consisting in fact of but four resident ladies, and some dozen resident males; but despite their limited number they form a very friendly and independent little community. Among them are to be found the usual types of Anglo Indian society, but they display characteristics not met with among the dwellers in larger stations. Remyo is so entirely cut off from civilisation, that the inhabitants must of necessity depend solely upon themselves for amusemen
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Chapter VII.—THE BURMESE.—
Chapter VII.—THE BURMESE.—
"We are merry folk who would make all merry as ourselves."—"Yeomen of the Guard." —— On my first evening in Remyo I was sitting in the drawing-room, waiting for the announcement of dinner, when suddenly, the curtain across the doorway was pulled aside, and a native peered into the room. His movements were rapid and stealthy, and betokened a desire for escape or concealment. On seeing me he slipped past the curtain into the room, and crouched down, as tho' endeavouring to hide himself from withou
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Chapter VIII.—ENTERTAINING.—
Chapter VIII.—ENTERTAINING.—
—— Entertaining is nervous work, as all the world knows. The anxiety is considerably increased in a small country station like Remyo, because one cannot be sure that the rats will not devour the food beforehand, or that the cook will not take that opportunity of having "fever," a polite synonym for getting drunk, much in use among Burman servants. The dinner party is the most general form of entertainment in Remyo, but not of very frequent occurrence; the reasons being, the limited number of ava
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Chapter IX.—ADVENTURES.—
Chapter IX.—ADVENTURES.—
"Things are seldom what they seem"—"H.M.S. Pinafore." "I haven't braved any dangers, but I feel as if I knew all about it"—(Rudyard Kipling.) —— But all this time I am wandering from the real subject of this book, i.e. , myself and my adventures, and as wandering from the straight path is an unpardonable error, it behoves me to return speedily to my subject, and recount a few of the soul-stirring incidents which befell me during some of my many bicycling expeditions alone into the depths of the
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Chapter X.—BEASTS AND REPTILES.—
Chapter X.—BEASTS AND REPTILES.—
—— Rats! Hamlin Town (with Bishop Hatto thrown in) cannot offer a comparison with our sufferings from these pestilent vermin. During the day time they contented themselves with playing in twos and threes about the house, getting in the way of our feet, and generally making themselves a nuisance. But at night when we had retired to rest, they came in their hundreds, from their homes beneath the house, and to use an expressive Americanism "simply bought the place." I am not naturally a "Mrs. Gummi
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Chapter XI.—SPORT.—
Chapter XI.—SPORT.—
In Burmah the Tiger story takes the place occupied by the fish story in this country, and is stamped, I suspect, with the same unblushing characteristics. Judging from the tiger stories I heard, I could come to no other conclusion than that the Anglo-Indian is possessed of amazing nerve and ingenuity (qualities useful to him alike in the exploit and in the telling of it), and I heard him with ever increasing interest and wonder. The tiger is the favourite theme, though he is but of small account
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Chapter XII.—THE RETURN.—
Chapter XII.—THE RETURN.—
—— To the stranger in this fascinating country, days are as minutes, months as days, and it seemed that scarcely had I arrived and commenced to look around me, when my visit came to an end, and sadly bidding farewell to Remyo and its many delights, all too soon I had to return home. Alas! too, I found I was compelled to renew my acquaintance with the Burmese pony, the only alternative being a bullock cart; and let those who have ridden forty miles along an up-country road in a Burmese bullock ca
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