Narrative Of Travels In Europe, Asia, And Africa, In The Seventeenth Century - free ebook by Evliya Çelebi

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Narrative Of Travels In Europe, Asia, And Africa, In The Seventeenth Century

Evliya Çelebi

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NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,

NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,

BY EVLIYÁ EFENDÍ. TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH BY THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER, F.M R.A.S, &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c. LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; SOLD BY PARBURY, ALLEN, &amp; Co., LEADENHALL STREET. M.DCCC.XXXIV. LONDON: Printed by J. L. Cox and Son , 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln’s-Inn Fields....

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BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR.

Evliyá, the son of Dervísh Mohammed, chief of the goldsmiths of Constantinople, was born in the reign of Sultán Ahmed I., on the 10th of Moharrem 1020 (A.D. 1611). He records the building of the mosque of Sultán Ahmed, which was begun when he was six years old, and the gate of which was executed under the superintendance of his father, who in his youth had been standard-bearer to Sultán Suleïmán. His grandfather was standard-bearer at the conquest of Constantinople, by Sultán Mohammed, on which

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THE TRAVELS OF EVLIYA EFENDÍ.

THE TRAVELS OF EVLIYA EFENDÍ.

IN THE NAME OF GOD, THE ALL-CLEMENT, THE ALL-MERCIFUL! To GOD, who ennobles exalted minds by travels, and has enabled me to visit the holy places; to Him who laid the foundations of the fortresses of legislation, and established them on the groundwork of prophecy and revelation, all praise be given: and may the richest blessings and most excellent benedictions be offered to the most noble and perfect of all creatures, the pattern of prayer, who said, “Pray as you see me pray;” to the infallible

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Sayings (hadís) of the Prophet respecting Constantinople.

Sayings (hadís) of the Prophet respecting Constantinople.

The prophet said: “Verily Constantinople shall be conquered; and excellent is the commander (emír), excellent the army, who shall take it from the opposing people!” Some thousands of proofs could be brought to shew, that Islámbúl is the largest of all inhabited cities on the face of the earth; but the clearest of those proofs is the following saying of the prophet, handed down by Ebú Hureïreh. The prophet of God said: “Have you heard of a town, one part of it situated on the land, and two parts

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An Account of the Foundation of the ancient City and Seat of Empire of the Macedonian Greeks (Yúnániyyáni Mákedúniyyah), i.e. the well-guarded Kostantiniyyeh, the envy of all the Kings of the Land of Islám.

An Account of the Foundation of the ancient City and Seat of Empire of the Macedonian Greeks (Yúnániyyáni Mákedúniyyah), i.e. the well-guarded Kostantiniyyeh, the envy of all the Kings of the Land of Islám.

It was first built by Solomon, and has been described by some thousands of historians. The date of its capture is contained in those words of the Korán, “The exalted city” ( beldah tayyibeh ), and to it some commentators apply the following text: “Have not the Greeks been vanquished in the lowest parts of the earth?” (Kor. xxx. 1.) and “An excellent city, the like of which hath never been created.” All the ancient Greek historians are agreed, that it was first built by Solomon, son of David, 160

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Concerning the Conquest of the Black Sea.

Concerning the Conquest of the Black Sea.

This sea, according to the opinion of the best mathematicians, is only a relic of Noah’s flood. It is eighty fathoms ( kúláj ) deep, and, before the deluge, was not united with the White Sea. At that time the plains of Salániteh (Slankament), Dóbreh-chín (Dobruczin), Kej-kemet (Ketskemet), Kenkús and Busteh, and the vallies of Sirm and Semendereh (Semendria), were all covered with the waters of the Black Sea, and at Dúdushkah, on the shore of the Gulf of Venice, the place where their waters were

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Concerning the Canal from the river Dóná (Danube).

Concerning the Canal from the river Dóná (Danube).

King Yánván, wishing to provide water for the great city of Islámbúl, undertook to make a canal to it from the Danube. For that purpose he began to dig in the high road near the castles of Severin and Siverin, not far from the fortress of Fet’h-islám, on the bank of that river; and by those means brought its waters to the place called Azád-lí, in the neighbourhood of Constantinople. He afterwards built, in the bed of the river, a barrier of solid stone, with an iron gate, which is still to be se

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Concerning Constantine, the ninth Builder, who erected the Walls and Castle of Constantinople.

Concerning Constantine, the ninth Builder, who erected the Walls and Castle of Constantinople.

He was the first Roman emperor who destroyed the idols and temples of the Heathens, and he was also the builder of the walls of Islámbúl. ’Isá (Jesus) having appeared to him in a dream, and told him to send his mother Helláneh (Helena) to build a place of worship at his birth-place Beïtu-l-lahm (Bethlehem), and another at the place of his sepulchre in Kudsi Sheríf (Jerusalem), he despatched her with an immense treasure and army to Felestín (Palestine); she reached Yáfah (Jaffa), the port of Jeru

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The Discovery of the true Cross.

The Discovery of the true Cross.

By the assistance of a monk called Magháriyús (Macarius), she found the place where the true cross was buried. Three trees in the form of crosses were found in the same grave, and the moment, as the Christians relate, a dead body was touched by them, it came to life again: this day was the 4th of Eïlúl (September), which is therefore celebrated by the Christians as the feast of the Invention of the Cross, and has ever since been held as a great festival by the Greeks. Helláneh also built the con

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Names of Constantinople in different Tongues.

Names of Constantinople in different Tongues.

Its first name in the Latin tongue was Makdúniyyah (Macedonia); then Yánkóvíchah in the Syrian (Suryání), from its founder Yánkó. Next in the Hebrew (’Ibrí) Alkesándeïrah (Alexandria) from Alexander; afterwards Púzenteh (Byzantium); then for a time, in the language of the Jews, Vezendúniyyeh; then by the Franks Yaghfúriyyeh. When Constantine had rebuilt it the ninth time, it was called Púznátiyám in the language of the Greeks, and Kostantaniyyeh; in German Kostantín-ópól; in the Muscovite tongue

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Concerning the circumference of Constantinople.

Concerning the circumference of Constantinople.

In the year 1044 (1634) when I was first come to years of manhood, and used to walk with my friends all over Islámbúl, at the time that Sultán Murád IV. had marched against (Riván) Eriván, and Kójah Baïrám Páshá was left as Káyim-makám (viceroy), he used to visit my late father; and, in the course of conversation, inquire about the history of Islámbúl. “My lord,” said my father, “it has been built nine times, and nine times destroyed; but had never, since it has been in the hands of the house of

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On the wonderful Talismans within and without Kostantíneh.

On the wonderful Talismans within and without Kostantíneh.

First talisman. In the ‘Avret-Bázárí (female-slave-market), there is a lofty column (the pillar of Arcadius) of white marble, inside of which there is a winding staircase. On the outside of it, figures of the soldiers of various nations, Hindustánies, Kurdistánies, and Múltánies, whom Yánkó ibn Mádiyán vanquished, were sculptured by his command; and on the summit of it there was anciently a fairy-cheeked female figure of one of the beauties of the age, which once a year gave a sound, on which ma

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Talismans relating to the Sea.

Talismans relating to the Sea.

First talisman. At the Chátládí-kapú, in the side of the palace of an emperor whom the sun never saw, there was the brazen figure of a demon ( dív ) upon a square column, which spit fire, and burnt the ships of the enemy whenever it was they approached from the White Sea (Archipelago). Second talisman. In the galley-harbour ( kadirghah límání ) there was a brazen ship, in which, once a year, when the cold winter-nights had set in, all the Witches of Islámból used to embark and sail about till mo

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Concerning the Mines within and without the City of Kostantín.

Concerning the Mines within and without the City of Kostantín.

By God’s will there was anciently a great cavern in Islámból, below the Sultán’s mosque (Sultán jámi’-sí), filled with sulphur, nitre, and black powder, from which they drew supplies in time of need. Having, by the decree of heaven, been struck by lightning in the time of Kostantín, or, according to our tradition, at the time of the taking of the city by the conqueror, all the large buildings over the cavern were blown up, and fragments of them scattered in every direction; some may still be see

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Sieges of Constantinople.

Sieges of Constantinople.

In the forty-third year of the Hijreh (A.D. 663), Mo’áviyyah became Commander of the Faithful; and in the course of his reign sent his commander in chief Moslemah, son of ’Abdu-l-malik, at the head of a hundred thousand men of the Syrian army, with two hundred ships, and two hundred transports laden with provisions, ammunition, &amp;c. from the port of Shám-Tarah-bólús (Tripoli in Syria), and trusting in God, first against the island of Máltah, which at that time was Rodós (Rhodes), and of w

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Concerning the Sieges of Constantinople by the Ottoman Emperors.

Concerning the Sieges of Constantinople by the Ottoman Emperors.

The first portion of the descendants of Jafeth which set its foot in the country of Rúm (Asia Minor) was the house of the Seljúkians, who, in alliance with the Dánishmendian Emírs, wrested, in A.H. 476 (A.D. 1083), the provinces of Malatiyyah, Kaïsariyyah, ’Aláiyyah, Karamán, and Kóniyah from the hand of the Greek emperors (Kaïsari Rúm Yúnániyán). They first came from Máveráu-n-nehr (Transoxiana). On the extinction of the Seljúkian dynasty, A.H. 600 (A.D. 1204), Suleïmán-sháh, one of the begs (l

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Account of the Rise of Mohammed II., the Father of Victory.

Account of the Rise of Mohammed II., the Father of Victory.

He mounted the throne on Thursday the 16th Moharrem 855 (A.D. 1451), at the age of twenty-one years. My great grandfather, then his standard-bearer, was with him at the conquest of Islámból. He purchased with the money arising from his share of the booty, the houses within the U’n kapání, on the site of the mosque of Sághirjílar, which he built after the conquest of the city by Mohammed II., together with a hundred shops settled on the mosque as an endowment ( vakf ). The house in which I was bo

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The last Siege of Kostantaniyyeh by Mohammed II. the Conqueror.

The last Siege of Kostantaniyyeh by Mohammed II. the Conqueror.

In the year of the Hijrah 857 (A.D. 1453), Sultán Mohammed encamped outside of the Adrianople gate, with an immense army of Unitarians (Muvahhedín); and some thousands of troops from Arebistán, who crossed the Strait of Gelíbólí (Gallipoli), and having joined the army of Islám, took up their quarters before the Seven Towers. All the troops from Tokát, Sívás, Erzrúm, Páï-búrt, and the other countries taken from Uzún Hasan, crossed the strait near Islámból, and encamped on the ’Ok-meïdán in sight

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An Explanation of the Relationship between the House of ’Osmán and the King of France.

An Explanation of the Relationship between the House of ’Osmán and the King of France.

Sú-Kemer-lí Mustafá Chelebí gave this narrative: “My father was the son of a King of France, named——. When the treaty had been made by which he engaged to give his daughter (my father’s sister) to the Tekkúr (the Emperor of Constantinople), a fleet of six hundred vessels was dispatched to ravage the coasts near the castle of ’Akkah, in order to furnish her with a dowry. It returned home laden with an immense booty, and a vast number of captives, male and female, and having reached Párisah, the a

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An Account of the heroic Deeds and Misfortunes of Jem-Sháh, son of the Emperor Mohammed Abú-l Fat-h (the Conqueror).

An Account of the heroic Deeds and Misfortunes of Jem-Sháh, son of the Emperor Mohammed Abú-l Fat-h (the Conqueror).

When Báyazíd Velí was khalífah, his brother Jem-Sháh (these two being princes of a high spirit) contended with him for the possession of this foul world, and having been worsted in a great battle on the plains of Karamán, fled to Kalávún Sultán of Egypt. From thence as he was going on a pilgrimage to Meccah, he was driven by the buffetting of the sea on the shores of Yemen and ’Aden, whence he visited the tomb of Veïso-l Karní, performed the pilgrimage, and travelling through Hijáz, returned to

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Eulogium on Yá Vudúd Sultán.

Eulogium on Yá Vudúd Sultán.

While Sultán Mohammed was going in solemn procession round Ayá Sófiyah a flash of lightning was seen to strike a place called Terlú-direk, and on going thither they found a body lying with its face turned towards the kibleh, and written on its illuminated breast in crimson characters, the name Yá Vudúd (O All-loving). Ak-Shemsu-d-dín, Karah-Shemsu-d-dín, and the other seventy holy men, exclaimed, “This, O Emperor! was the cause of Islámból’s falling on the fiftieth day.” Having prayed that it mi

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On the glorious Conquest of the Ok-meïdán (Archery-ground).

On the glorious Conquest of the Ok-meïdán (Archery-ground).

When the Sultán had distributed all the booty among the victors, he caused the idols like Vudd, Yághús, Ya’úf, Suvá’, and Nesr, which were found set with jewels in Ayá Sófiyah to be carried to the Ok-meïdán, and set up there as marks for all the Muselmán heroes to shoot their arrows at; and from thence an arrow which hits the mark, is to this day called by archers an idol’s arrow (púteh ókí). One of those idols was standing till knocked to pieces in the time of Sultán Ahmed Khán. Another was cal

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Distribution of the Booty.

Distribution of the Booty.

After this splendid feast, which lasted three days and three nights, the Sultán accompanied by the three imperial defterdárs and all the clerks of the army, proceeded to pile up in the garden of the arsenal, the treasures taken on board of the French fleet, with those pointed out in the Ayá Sófiyah by Mohammed Bábá, and those taken from the seven thousand monasteries, convents, and palaces within the city. The first to whom their share was allotted were the physicians, oculists, surgeons, washer

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Description of the new Seráï, the Threshold of the Abode of Felicity.

Description of the new Seráï, the Threshold of the Abode of Felicity.

The conqueror having thus become possessed of such treasures, observed that the first thing requisite for an Emperor is a permanent habitation. He therefore expended three thousand purses on building the new Seráï. The best of several metrical dates inscribed over the Imperial gate, is that at the bottom in conspicuous gold letters on a white marble tablet, Khalled Allahu azza sáhibihi. May God make the glory of its master eternal! ( i.e. A.H. 876, A.D. 1471-2). Never hath a more delightful edif

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Description of the Old Seráï.

Description of the Old Seráï.

Sultán Mohammed the Conqueror also determined to place his honourable harem in Islámból. In an airy and elevated position, on the side of the city which overlooks the canal, there was an old convent, built by King Púzantín, and placed in the midst of a delightful grove, full of all sorts of beasts and birds. This convent, in the time of Púzantín and Kostantín, had been occupied by twelve thousand monks and nuns. The occasion of its being built was, that Simon, one of the apostles of Jesus, havin

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Eulogium on the living water of the old palace (Eskí Seráï).

Eulogium on the living water of the old palace (Eskí Seráï).

Abú-l fat-h Mohammed, being a wise and illustrious Emperor, assembled all his learned men in order to enquire which was the best water in Islámból, and they all unanimously pointed out to him the spring of Shim’ún (Simon), within the Eskí Seráï, as the lightest, most temperate, and copious of all; which was proved by dipping a miskál of cotton in a certain quantity of each different kind of water, then weighing each parcel, and after drying it in the sun, weighing it a second time. The Sultán, t

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On the Public Officers established at Islámból at the time of the Conquest.

On the Public Officers established at Islámból at the time of the Conquest.

Within three years the city of Islámból became so populous, and contained such a sea of men, that it was impossible to restrain its inhabitants without public authority. The assistants first granted to the Grand Vezír Mahmúd Páshá, were five executioners, a regiment (ódá) of janissaries, with a Muhzir Aghá (colonel), cháúshes (apparitors) of the Tópjís and Jebehjis, a captain ( ódábáshí ) of the Bóstánjís, and a túfenkjí (musketeer), and matarahjí (water-carrier) taken from the janissaries, with

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On the Imperial Mosques in the Mohammedan City of Kostantaniyyeh.

On the Imperial Mosques in the Mohammedan City of Kostantaniyyeh.

The first, and most ancient of these places of worship dedicated to the almighty and everlasting God, is that of Ayá Sófiyah, built, as mentioned in the seventh Section, in the year 5052 after the fall of Adam. It was finished by Aghnádús (Ignatius?), a perfect architect, well skilled in geometry, under the direction of the Prophet Khizr; and forty thousand workmen, seven thousand porters, and three thousand builders, were employed in raising its domes and arches on three thousand pillars. Every

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On the Dimensions, Builders, &c. of that ancient place of worship, Ayá Sófiyah.

On the Dimensions, Builders, &c. of that ancient place of worship, Ayá Sófiyah.

This mosque is situated on elevated ground at the eastern end of the city, a thousand paces ( ádim ) distant from the Stable-gate (ákhór kapú) near the sea, and a thousand from Seraglio Point. The great cupola which rears its head into the skies is joined by a half-cupola, beneath which is the mihráb (sacred recess), and to the right of it a marble pulpit ( minber ). There are altogether on the whole building no less then 360 gilt cupolas, the largest of which is the great one in the middle; the

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A Description of the four Minárehs (Minarets).

A Description of the four Minárehs (Minarets).

While Mohammed the Conqueror was residing as Viceroy at Edreneh (Adrianople), there was a great earthquake at Islámból, which made the northern side of Ayá Sófiyah bend, and threatened its ruin. The infidels were much alarmed; but Prince Mohammed, in a friendly manner, sent the old architect, ’Alí Nejjár, who had built the great mosques at Brúsah and Edreneh for Yildirim Báyazíd, and was then living, to the Greek king, in order to repair Ayá Sófiyah. It was he who erected for the support of the

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The Servants (Khuddám) of the Mosque.

The Servants (Khuddám) of the Mosque.

They are the Imáms (reciters of the Form of Prayer); the Khatíbs (reciters of the Khotbah, bidding-prayer on Friday); Sheïkhs (preachers); Devrkhán (Scripture readers); Ders-’ámils (lecturers); Talabah (students); Muëzzins (cryers, who call to prayers from the Minárehs); Ejzá kháns (lesson readers); Na’t kháns (reciters of the praises of the prophet and his associates); Bevvábs (door-keepers); and Káyims (sextons): in all full two thousand servants, for the revenues of the mosque settled upon it

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Stations and Places in this Mosque visited as peculiarly fitted for Devotion.

Stations and Places in this Mosque visited as peculiarly fitted for Devotion.

First. Ayá Sófiyah is, in itself, peculiarly the house of God. Second. The station (Makám) of Moslemah, in a place called U’ch Búják (the three corners), where he, who was commander of the forces in the Khalifate of Mo’áviyyeh, is said to have offered up prayer. Third. The station of Iyyúb Ansárí, who, after the peace made in the year of the Hijrah 52, entered Ayá Sófiyah and performed a service of two inflections on the spot called Makámi Iyyúb Sultán, south of the Sweating Column. There is now

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Narrative of Gulábí Aghá.

Narrative of Gulábí Aghá.

Gulábí Aghá, Rikáb dár (stirrup-holder) of Sultán Suleïmán, a pious man, who died at the age of 151 years, relates that in consequence of the great plague in the reign of Sultán Selím II., which at Islámból carried off three thousand souls every day, that prince ordered the prayer Istiská to be proclaimed during three days; and that the mosque being much crowded on the holy night Kadr, in order to hear the sermon of the Sheïkh ( i.e. Doctor) of the order of Beshiktásh Evliyá Efendí, the Sultán o

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Virtues of the Golden Ball.

Virtues of the Golden Ball.

If any man have a bad memory which he wishes to improve, he should place himself beneath the Golden Ball suspended in the middle of the cupola, and say the morning prayer seven times; three times repeat the words Allahumma Yá káshifo-l mushkilát Yá ’álimu-s-sir va-l khafiyyát ( i.e. O God who openest all difficult things and knowest all secret and hidden things), and each time eat seven black grapes, and then whatever he hears will remain fixed in his memory as if engraven on stone. A most noted

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The Spectacle of the resplendent Stones.

The Spectacle of the resplendent Stones.

On the east side of the upper gallery there are five or six smooth flat slabs of various coloured stones, which reflect the rays of the rising sun with so bright a light that the eye of man cannot look stedfastly on them. In short, there are some thousands of holy places of pilgrimage in Ayá Sófiyah, which is a Ka’beh for Fakírs, but the writer of these pages has only described those which he knew. The whole of this mosque is also covered with lead, which has remained uninjured for so many thous

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The Mosque of Zírek Báshí.

The Mosque of Zírek Báshí.

This is also a large mosque, built by Kostantín for the benefit of the soul of the Lord Yahyá (St. John), and called, in the time of the Nasárá (Christians) Menastir Sanjovaniyyeh (Monastero San Giovanni). The holy body of that Saint is now at Malta, which is, therefore, called Sanjovanniyyeh ( i.e. Malta di San Giovanni). It was carried away by the Maltese infidels from a convent in the village of Beït Sabástiyyeh (Σεβαστὴ), near Kudsi Sheríf. His head is still preserved in a golden dish in a c

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Description of the Mosque of Mohammed the Conqueror.

Description of the Mosque of Mohammed the Conqueror.

The foundations of it were laid in the year 867 (A.D. 1463), and it was finished A.H. 875 (A.D. 1470). The date of its commencement is expressed by the Arabic words Sheyyed-allahu erkánehá. It is situated on high ground, in the midst of Islámból, on the site of a convent which bore the name of king Vezendún (Byzantium). This convent having been entirely destroyed by an earthquake its site was fixed upon for this new mosque by the conqueror....

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Form of this Mosque.

Form of this Mosque.

The ascent to it is by a flight of stone steps on the right and left; and its height from the ground to the roof is 87 builders cubits, four cubits being the height from the ground, of the platform on which it stands. It has a large cupola in the centre, and semi-cupolas over the Mihráb. The Mihráb, Mimber, and Mahfils, for the Muëzzins and the Emperor, are of white marble and of ancient workmanship. The cupola has two rows of galleries adorned with lamps. On the left side of the Mihráb stands a

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Appeal of the Mi’már Báshí (Head Builder) to the Law of the Prophet against the Conqueror.

Appeal of the Mi’már Báshí (Head Builder) to the Law of the Prophet against the Conqueror.

Mohammed being, like Jem, a very passionate Emperor, severely rebuked the architect for not having built his mosque of the same height as Ayá Sófiyah, and for having cut down the columns, which were each worth the whole tribute of Rúm (Asia Minor). The architect excused himself by saying, that he had cut down two columns three cubits each on purpose to give his building more solidity and strength against the earthquakes, so common in Islámból, and had thus made the mosque lower than Ayá Sófiyah.

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Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd II.

Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd II.

It is a square building supporting a large dome, flanked by semi domes on the south-eastern (Kiblah), and opposite sides. On the right and left of the mosque there are two purple columns of porphyry, of which the like are to be found only in the mosque of Sultán Kaláún, in Caïro; and there is suspended from these a double row of lamps. On the right side of the mosque an elevated gallery has been constructed for the use of the Sultáns of the house of ’Osmán at the public service on Fridays. Sultá

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Description of the Mosque of Sultán Selím I.

Description of the Mosque of Sultán Selím I.

He began it as a monument to the illustrious memory of his father, in the year 927 (A.D. 1521), and finished it in the year 933 (A.D. 1527). It is a lofty mosque, in the interior of Islámból, on the summit of one of the hills which overlook the canal; but it has no fine columns within it like the other mosques. It is only an elevated dome supported by four walls, but such as to raise the admiration of all who are masters in mathematics, and to be pointed at as a proof of the great skill of the o

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Description of the Fifth Imperial Mosque; that of Sultán Suleïmán.

Description of the Fifth Imperial Mosque; that of Sultán Suleïmán.

It was begun in the year 950 (A.D. 1543), and finished in the year——, and is beyond all description beautiful. The learned, who composed the metrical inscriptions, containing the date of its erection, confess that they are not able duly to express its praise; a task which I, the contemptible Evliyà, am now striving to perform as far as my ability will allow. This incomparable mosque was built by Sultán Suleïmán on one-half of the unoccupied half of the summit of the lofty hill on which had been

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In Praise of the Writing of Karah Hisárí.

In Praise of the Writing of Karah Hisárí.

There never has been to this day, nor ever will be, any writing which can compare with that of Ahmed Karah Hisárí, outside and inside of this mosque. In the centre of the dome there is this text of the Korán (xxiv. 35): “God is the light of heaven and earth; the similitude of his light is as a niche in a wall wherein a lamp is placed, and the lamp enclosed in a case of glass:” a text justly called the Text of Light, which has been here rendered more luminous by the brilliant hand which inscribed

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Description of the Court (Harem).

Description of the Court (Harem).

The court of this mosque has three gates, to which there is an ascent and descent by three flights of steps. It is paved with white marble, and is as smooth and level as a carpet. Though very spacious, the body of the mosque is still larger. Round its four sides there are benches (soffahs) of stone, forty feet broad, upon which columns of coloured stones rest, supporting arches of different hues, as various as those of the rainbow. The windows of this court are guarded by iron gratings, the bars

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A Description of the Imperial Mausoleum.

A Description of the Imperial Mausoleum.

At the distance of a bow-shot from the Mihráb, in the midst of a delightful garden, is the sepulchre of Suleïmán, itself an unparalleled edifice, being crowned by a double cupola, so that one is placed over the other, the smaller below and the larger above. There is not, in the whole civilized world, a building so richly ornamented with wonderful sculptures and carvings in marble as this!...

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Description of the Outer Court.

Description of the Outer Court.

The outer court of this mosque is a large sandy level planted with cypresses, planes, willows, limes, and ashes; and surrounding three sides of the building. It has ten gates: two on the Kibla side; viz. that of Merá, and that of the old Serái; on the south side, the Mekteb (school gate), chàrshù (market), medreséh (college), and Hakím-Báshi (Head Physicians) gates. On the west, the Imareh (alms-house), Táv-kháneh (hospital), and Aghá’s gate (Aghá kapú-sí). On the north side a stone staircase of

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Description of the Mosque of Prince Mohammed.

Description of the Mosque of Prince Mohammed.

According to the opinion of all architects and mathematicians, this mosque is situated in the centre of the triangle of Islámból. It ranks as the sixth imperial mosque, and was built by Suleimán Khán for his favourite son Mohammed, who died at Magnesia, and was buried here. Its cupola is an elegant piece of workmanship, and though not so large as that of the Suleïmániyyeh, it rears its head majestically into the skies: it is supported by rectangular pillars and four semi-domes. The mihráb and mi

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Description of the Mosque of the Valideh.

Description of the Mosque of the Valideh.

This mosque, which is commonly called Khasseki-evret (the favourite of the women), and is situated near the Evret-bazar, is not so large as other mosques, and has only one mináreh. It has a common kitchen, a refectory, a hospital, a college, and a school for children....

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Description of the Mosque of Mehr-máh Sultáneh.

Description of the Mosque of Mehr-máh Sultáneh.

It is a lofty mosque within the Adrianople-gate, and was built by Sultán Suleimán Khán for his daughter Mehr-máh. Its mihráb, minber, and mahfil, are remarkably neat; but there is no royal mahfil. It is surrounded by the apartments of the college, a bath and a market. There is neither refectory nor hospital. In short, Sultán Suleimán Khán, during a reign of forty-eight years, established order and justice in his dominions; marched victoriously through the seven quarters of the globe, embellished

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Begler-begs in the reign of Sultán Suleimán.

Begler-begs in the reign of Sultán Suleimán.

Behram Pasha; Davúd Pasha, who died Governor of Egypt; Oveis Pasha, Governor of Shám (Damascus); Dukakin Zádeh Gházi Mohammed Pasha, Governor of Egypt; Oveis Pasha, Governor of Yemen (Arabia), he quaffed the cup of martyrdom at the hand of Pehlevan Hassan, the robber; Oz-demir Pasha, a relation of Ghori, the last Sultán of Egypt, a Circassian by birth, and Conqueror of Habush (Abyssinia); Gházi Omer Pasha, who built a mosque and imaret at Belgrade; Gházi Kásim Pasha, who when Suleimán raised the

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Capudán Pashas of the Reign of Suleïmán.

Capudán Pashas of the Reign of Suleïmán.

Sinán Pasha, from the harem, a great tyrant. Khairu-d-din Pasha (Barbarossa), born at Medelli (Mitylene), and created Capudán in the year 940 (A.D. 1533). He died A.H. 970 (A.D. 1562), and was buried at Beshiktásh. Saleh Pasha, a native of Kaz-tagh (Mount Ida), was Pasha of Algiers; and, like his predecessor, a most active Admiral. Yahia Pasha, Grand Admiral, and died Pasha of Algiers. Torghúd Pasha, who suffered martyrdom at the siege of Malta. Mohammed Pasha, who was Pasha of Egypt, and, like

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Defterdárs and Nishánjis of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán.

Defterdárs and Nishánjis of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán.

Defterdár Iskender Chelebi; Hyder Chelebi, of Gallipoli; Lufti Beg, of the harem; Abulfazl Efendí; Abdi Chelebi, son of Jevizádeh’; Mustafa Chelebi, who, though afflicted with palsy, continued to attend the Diván, because he was an excellent penman; Mohammed Chelebi, who was also called Egri Abdi Zádeh; Ibrahím Chelebi, who was the chief Defterdár; Hasan Chelebi; Murád Chelebi, Jemáli Zádeh Mustafa Chelebi, who in his prose and poetical compositions assumed the name of Nisháni: he is the author

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Begs of Sultán Suleïmán’s Reign.

Begs of Sultán Suleïmán’s Reign.

Kochek Báli Beg, son of the Grand Vezir, Yahia; Khosrú Beg, descended from the daughter of Sultán Báyazíd: he built at Seráï, a mosque, a khán, a bath, an imáret, a college, and a school, and achieved some thousands of victories; Kara Othmán Sháh Beg, son of Kara Mustafa Beg by the sister of Sultán Suleïmán: he built at Tarkhaleh a wonderful mosque with a college and an imaret; Ali Beg Ibn Malkoch Beg, who rendered himself famous in Croatia; Núbehar Zádeh, who was a disciple of Jelál Zádeh, and

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Some of the Illustrious Divines of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán.

Some of the Illustrious Divines of the Reign of Sultán Suleïmán.

Khairu-d-din Efendí, his Majesty’s Khojah; Seidi Chelebi, of Kastemúni; Sheikh Mohammed Jiví-zádeh; Mollah Sheikh Mohammed Ben Kotbu-d-din; Mollah Mohammed Ben Ahmed Ben ’Adíl-pasha, an excellent historian and a good Persian poet; Mollah Abdul-fattáh Ebn Ahmed ’Adíl Pasha, a native of Berdá, in Persia, and an amiable and intelligent man; Sheikh Mohammed, of Tunis, an excellent reader of the Korán, the whole of which he knew by heart; Zehíru-d-din, who came from Tabríz, and was hanged at Cairo wi

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The Kanún-námeh or Statistical Code of the Empire, drawn up by Sultán Suleïmán.

The Kanún-námeh or Statistical Code of the Empire, drawn up by Sultán Suleïmán.

Section I. The Province of Rúmeïli contains 24 Sanjaks, 1,227 Ziámets, 12,377 Timárs. Ardil (Transylvania) pays an annual tribute of 3,000 purses; as do also Aflák (Wallachia), and Bóghdán (Moldavia). The Crimea has no Ziámets or Timárs, but is governed by Kháns. Rodós (Rhodes) has five Sanjaks; Kubrus (Cyprus) seven, and Candia thirteen Sanjaks; making, in all, 167 Sanjaks, 3,306 Ziámets, and 37,379 Timárs. Baghdád has no ziámet or timár, but is held on an annual lease, as are also Basrah and L

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The Khás, or Revenues of the Begler-begs.

The Khás, or Revenues of the Begler-begs.

Rumeïli, 1,100,000 aspres; Anadolí, 1,000,000; Karamán, 60,671; Shám (Damascus), 1,000,000; Sivás, 900,000; Erzerúm, 1,214,600; Díárbekr, 1,200,600; Ván, 1,132,200; Búdín (Bude), 880,000; the islands of the Archipelago, 885,000; Haleb (Aleppo), 817,760; Mera’ish, 628,450; Bosna, 650,000; Temiswár, 806,790; Kars, 827,170; Jíldir, 925,000; Tarab-afzún (Trebizonde), 734,850; Rika, 681,056; Mosúl, 682,000; Sheherzúl, 1,100,000; Trabalós Shám (Tripoli in Syria), 786,000; Ozí (Oczakov), 988,000; Krím

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Names of the Sanjaks of each Province.

Names of the Sanjaks of each Province.

Rumeïli has two Defterdárs, one of the treasury-office (mál), and of the feudal tenures (tímár) a Kehiyá of Chávushes, an inspector of the Defter (rolls), a Kehiyá of the Defter; an Aláï-beg (colonel of the feudal militia); a Cherí-báshí (lieutenant-colonel); a Voinók-ághá, and seven Yúrúk-begs. The twenty-four sanjaks are: 1. Sofia, the residence of the Páshá. 2. Kústendíl. 3. Skutari. 4. Terkhaleh. 5. Ukhrí. 6. Avlona. 7. Delvina. 8. Yánína. 9. Elbessán. 10. Chermen. 11. Saloník. 12. Askúb (Sc

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Sanjaks of the Province of Anádólí.

Sanjaks of the Province of Anádólí.

There is a Kehiyá, an Emín (inspector), and Muhásibjí (comptroller of the defter or rolls), an Emín and Kehiyá of the Chávushes, a colonel and captain of the feudal militia, four Begs called Musellim, and eleven Yáyá Begs. 1. Kútáhieh. 2. Saríkhán. 3. Aïdía. 4. Kastamúni. 5. Bólí. 6. Munteshá. 7. Angora. 8. Kara-hisár. 9. Tekkeh. 10. Hamid-sultán. 11. Ogí-karasí....

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Sanjaks of the Province of Karamán.

Sanjaks of the Province of Karamán.

This province has a Defterdár of the treasury, and of the feuds, an Emín of the Defter and of the Chávushes; a Kehiyá of the Defter and of the Chávushes; an Aláï-beg (colonel), and Cherí-báshí (captain). 1. Konia, the residence of the Páshá. 2. Kaiserieh (Cæsarea). 3. Níkdeh. 4. Yení-sheherí. 5. Kír-sheherí. 6. Ak-seráï....

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Sanjaks of Sívás.

Sanjaks of Sívás.

The Defter (treasury) has a Kehiyá, and Emín, the Chávushes have the same; there is besides a captain and Defterdár of the feuds. 1. Sívás, the seat of the Páshá. 2. Deverbegi. 3. Khúrúm. 4. Keskín. 5. Búzouk. 6. Amasia. 7. Tokát. 8. Zíla. 9. Janík. 10. Arab-gír....

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Sanjaks of Bosna.

Sanjaks of Bosna.

The officers are, the Defterdár of the treasury, the Kehiyá and Emín of the rolls; the Kehiyá and Emín of the Chávushes, the Aláï-beg and the Cherí-báshí. 1. Seráï, the seat of the Páshá. 2. Hersek. 3. Kilís. 4. Zvorník. 5. Poshega. 6. Záchina. 7. Kírka. 8. Ráhovícha. 9. Banalúka....

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The Province of the Capúdán Páshá.

The Province of the Capúdán Páshá.

The officers are, the Kehiyá and Emín of the Defter and Chávushes, the Aláï-beg and Cherí-báshí, the Aghás of the Arabs, and the Dáïs of the Yúz-báshís. 1. Gallipoli, the seat of the Pasha. 2. Aghribúz (Negropont). 3. Karlí-eilí (Acarnania). 4. Ainabakht (Naupaktus or Lepanto). 5. Rodós (Rhodes). 6. Mytylini. 7. Kójá-eilí. 8. Bíghá. 9. Izmit (Nicomedia). 10. Izmír (Smyrna)....

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Sanjaks of the Morea.

Sanjaks of the Morea.

Here there is neither Kehiyá nor Emín of the Defter. The Sanjaks are: 1. Misistra. 2. Mania. 3. Corone; Ayá Maura. 4. Napoli di Romania. The sanjaks Sákiz (Chios), Naksha (Naxos), and Mahdia (in Africa), have recently been added to the government of the Capudán-páshá....

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Sanjaks of Búdín (Bude).

Sanjaks of Búdín (Bude).

The number of officers attached to each province in this district is complete, because it always has a grand diván. They are: 1. The Defterdár of the treasury. 2. The defterdár of the Tímárs or feuds. 3. The Kehiyá or deputy of the defter. 4. The Kehiyá of the Chávushes. 5. The Emín or inspector of the defter. 6. The Emín of the Chávushes. 7. The Aláï Beg, or colonel. 8. The Cherí-báshí or lieutenant-colonel of the feudal militia. 9. The Pashá who resides at Bude. The Sanjaks are: 1. Bude. 2. Se

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Sanjaks of the Province of Kaniza.

Sanjaks of the Province of Kaniza.

This province was separated from the principality of Bude, and there is no Defterdár either of the treasury or of the feudal militia. The sanjaks are: 1. Siget. 2. Kopán. 3. Valiova, 4. Sokolofja....

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Sanjaks of Uivár (Neuhausel).

Sanjaks of Uivár (Neuhausel).

This province was conquered only in the time of Mohammed IV., by Kopreïlí Zádeh Ahmed Páshá. It is a well cultivated district. The sanjaks are: 1. Litova. 2. Novígrád. 3. Húlichk. 4. Boyák. 5. Shaswár....

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The Province of Temiswar.

The Province of Temiswar.

Here the usual offices were established during the reign of Mohammed IV., at the time of its second conquest by Kopreïlí Ahmed Páshá. The fortress of Yanova was then the seat of the Páshá. The sanjaks are: 1. Lipova. 2. Kíánad. 3. Jíulei. 4. Mode. 5. Lugos. 6. Facias Arad. 7. Five churches, the wakf (or pious bequest) of Sokollí Mohammed Páshá....

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The Province of Varasdin.

The Province of Varasdin.

This province was conquered by Kozí Alí Páshá in the time of Mohammed IV. Sanjaks: 1. Slanta. 2. Debrechin. 3. Khalmas. 4. Seus Giorgi. The inhabitants of this country being all infidels, the tribute is collected by Hungarian chiefs who forward it to Constantinople....

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Transylvania.

Transylvania.

This principality was conquered during the reign of Sultan Mohammed IV. by the arms of the brave Seïdí Ahmed Páshá; and Michael Apasty was made viceroy on condition that he should pay an annual tribute of one thousand purses besides certain presents. The population is composed of native Transylvanians, of Siklev, and of Saxons; the latter have always been disaffected towards the Osmánlí government....

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Valachia and Moldavia.

Valachia and Moldavia.

These are also infidel principalities governed by princes appointed by the Ottoman government, and pay an annual tribute of two thousand purses; they are considered as belonging to the province of Silistria....

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Oczakov or Silistria.

Oczakov or Silistria.

Here there are no public officers as in the other provinces, having been detached from the government of Rúmeïlí. Its sanjaks are: 1. Nikopolis. 2. Chermen. 3. Viza. 4. Kirk Kilisia (or forty churches). 5. Bender. 6. Akkermán. 7. Oczakov. 8. Kilbúrún. 9. Dúghún. 10. Silistria, which is the seat of the Páshá....

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Krim (the Crimea).

Krim (the Crimea).

This territory is governed by a Khán, who has the privilege of coining, and of having the Khotba read in the mosques, his name being mentioned imme diately after that of the Osmánlí Emperor, who has the right of appointing and changing the Kháns. The residence of the Khán is at Baghcheseráï, and that of the Sultan at Ak-mesjid. The subordinate officers are styled Shírín-begs and Másúr-begs; the former are selected from the Nakhcheván family, and the latter from the Manik....

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The Province of Kaffa.

The Province of Kaffa.

Its sanjaks are ruled by Voivodas, immediately appointed by the Osmánlí Sultan and not by the Kháns. These sanjaks are: 1. Bálikláva. 2. Kirej. 3. Támán. 4. Cherkess-shagha. 5. Balisira. 6. Azov. Besides the Defterdár, there are no public officers....

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The Province of Cyprus.

The Province of Cyprus.

There are here, a Defterdár of the treasury and of the feuds; a Kehiyá and Emín of the Defter and Chávushes, an Aláï-beg, and a Cherí-báshí. The sanjaks are: 1. Itshilí. 2. Társús. 3. Aláyí. 4. Sís or Khás. The following have a Sáliáneh, or annual allowance from the treasury: Kerina, Paphos, Tamagusta, and Nicosia. It is a large island, and contains 30,000 Moslem warriors, and 150,000 infidels....

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The Province of Candia.

The Province of Candia.

Canea was conquered in the reign of Sultán Ibrahím, by Yúsuf Páshá; and twenty-six years afterwards Candia was taken by Kopreïlí Zádeh the second, after a protracted siege of three years. The sanjaks are: 1. Canea. 2. Retimo. 3. Selina. This island, being so extensive, has the complement of public officers, and maintains a force of 40,000 men....

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The Province of Damascus.

The Province of Damascus.

Some of the sanjaks of this province are khás ( i.e. yield a land revenue); and others are Sáliáneh ( i.e. have an annual allowance from government). Of the former are: 1. Jerusalem. 2. Gaza. 3. Karak. 4. Safet. 5. Náblús. 6. Aajelún. 7. Lejún. 8. Bokoa. Of the latter: Tadmor, Saida, and Bairút....

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The Province of Trabalús (Tripoli).

The Province of Trabalús (Tripoli).

Its sanjaks are: 1. Trabalús (Tripoli) the seat of the Páshá. 2. Hama. 3. Homs. 4. Salamieh. 5. Jebella. 6. Latakia. 7. Husnábád. It has also forty Begs of the Drúzís in the mountains which belong to it....

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The Province of Adna.

The Province of Adna.

Having been separated from the government of Haleb, it has no diván officers. The sanjaks are: 1. Sís. 2. Tarsús. 3. Karatásh. 4. Selfekeh. It has also seven Bóï-begs. Being a mountainous country it is very turbulent....

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The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

Two of its sanjaks which receive a stipend, have no ziámet nor tímár. The sanjaks are: 1. Akrád Kilís. 2. Bírejek. 3. Maura. 4. Azir. 5. Bális. 6. Antakia (Antioch). Those which receive the allowance are Massiaf, and the sanjak of the Turkomans, who are very numerous in this province....

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The Province of Díúrbeker.

The Province of Díúrbeker.

In this province there are nineteen sanjaks, and five hakúmets (or hereditary governments). Eleven of the nineteen sanjaks are the same as the others in the Ottoman provinces, but the remaining eight were, at the time of the conquest, conferred on Kurdish Begs with the patent of family inheritance for ever. Like other sanjaks, they are divided into ziámets and tímárs, the possessors of which are obliged to serve in the field; but if they do not, the ziámet or timár may be transferred to a son or

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The Province of Kars.

The Province of Kars.

Before the conquest this district belonged to Erzrúm, but it was afterwards made a separate province, and had the sanjak of Yásín joined to it. It has a colonel and lieutenant-colonel, but no officers of the defter. Its sanjaks are: 1. Little Erdehán. 2. Hújuján. 3. Zárshád. 4. Kechrán. 5. Kághizmán. 6. Kars, the seat of the Páshá....

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The Province of Jíldir or Akhíchkeh.

The Province of Jíldir or Akhíchkeh.

Of the civil officers of the diván there is here only a defterdár of the treasury; and of the military, there is a colonel and a lieutenant-colonel of the feudal militia. The sanjaks are: 1. Oultí. 2. Harbús. 3. Ardinj. 4. Hajrek. 5. Great Ardehán. 6. Postkhú. 7. Mahjíl. 8. Ijareh-penbek. Besides these there are four hereditary sanjaks: 1. Púrtekrek. 2. Lawaneh. 3. Nusuf Awán. 4. Shúshád. During the reign of Sultán Mohammed Khán, the castle of Kotátis was captured by Kara Mortezá, and was added

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The Province of Gúrjistán or Georgia.

The Province of Gúrjistán or Georgia.

The sanjaks are: 1. Achikbásh. 2. Shúshád. 3. Dádián. 4. Gúríl. The Begs of Megrelistán (Mingrelia) are all infidels; but Murád IV. reduced them, and having placed Sefer Pasha as their governor, made the castle of Akhickha the seat of government. To this day they send the annual presents....

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The Province of Tarabafzún (Trebisonde).

The Province of Tarabafzún (Trebisonde).

1. Gomish-kháneh. 2. Jankha. 3. Wíza. 4. Gúnia. 5. Batúm. Though this province is small it has a defterdár of the Tímárs, a Kehiyá of the defter, an Aláï-beg, and a Cherí-báshí....

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The Province of Rika.

The Province of Rika.

The sanjaks of Rika and Rohá are: 1. Jemása. 2. Khárpud. 3. Deïr-rahba. 4. Bení Rebia. 5. Sarúj. 6. Kharán. 7. Rika. 8. Rohá or Urfa, which is the seat of the Páshá; it has no officers....

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The Province of Baghdád.

The Province of Baghdád.

Seven of the eighteen sanjaks of this province are divided, as in other parts of the empire, into ziámets and timárs. They are: 1. Hilla. 2. Zeng-ábád. 3. Javazar. 4. Rúmáhía. 5. Jangula. 6. Kara-tágh. 7.——. The other eleven sanjaks which are called Irák, have neither ziámets nor tímárs. They are: 1. Terteng. 2. Samwat. 3. Bíát. 4. Derneh. 5. Deh-balád. 6. Evset. 7. Kerneh-deh. 8. Demir-kapú. 9. Karanieh. 10. Kilán. 11. Alsáh. These have no ziámets or tímárs, and are entirely in the power of the

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The Province of Basra.

The Province of Basra.

This was formerly a hereditary government (mulkiat), but was reduced to an ordinary province (eyálet) when conquered by Sultán Mohammed IV. It has a defterdár and Kehiyá of the Chávushes, but neither Aláï-beg nor Cherí -báshí, because there are no ziámets or tímárs; the lands being all rented by the governor....

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The Province of Lahsa.

The Province of Lahsa.

This being a hereditary government, has neither ziámets nor tímárs, but the governor sends a monthly present to the governor of Baghdád. Formerly its governors were installed as Begler-begs, but they now hold their authority without a patent....

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The Province of Yemen.

The Province of Yemen.

This too, since the time of Mohammed Khán IV., has been unlawfully occupied by the Imáms....

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The Province of Abyssinia.

The Province of Abyssinia.

This province is also without ziámets or tímárs. Once in three years an officer is sent from the Sublime Porte, to claim it as a government province (Mulk). There are no private leases (iltizám)....

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The Province of Mecca.

The Province of Mecca.

Mecca is divided between the Sheríf and the Páshá of Jidda. There are no revenues but those derived from the aqueducts....

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The Province of Egypt.

The Province of Egypt.

Here there are neither ziámets nor tímárs. Its villages are registered either as belonging to the crown (Mír Mál), or to pious foundations (Wakf), or to the Káshif, or as rented by the inhabitants of towns (Iltizám-beledí). There is a defterdár of the treasury, a journal keeper (Rúznámehjí), seven clerks of the leases (Mokata’jí), a comptroller (Mokábelejí) on the part of the Páshá, forty Begs and seven commanders of the seven military bodies. The sanjaks held by Begs are the following: 1. Upper

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The Province of Mosul.

The Province of Mosul.

This has no officers of the Diván, but a colonel and a lieutenant-colonel. Its sanjaks are: 1. Bájwánlí. 2. Tekrit. 3. Eskí Mosul (Nineveh). 4. Harú....

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The Province of Wán.

The Province of Wán.

The officers are, the defterdár of the treasury and of the tímárs, the inspector and deputy of the rolls and Chávushes, a clerk of the Chávushes, a colonel and lieutenant-colonel. Its sanjaks are: 1. Adaljewáz. 2. Arjish. 3. Músh. 4. Bárgerí. 5. Kárkár. 6. Kesání. 7. Zíríkí. 8. Asa’bard. 9. Aghákís. 10. Akrád. 11. Bení-kutúr. 12. Kala’ Báyazíd. 13. Burdú’. 15. Khalát. In the governments of Tiflis, Hakkárí, Majmúdí, and Peniánish, there are ziámets and tímárs; the tribute received from them is ap

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The Province of Erzerúm.

The Province of Erzerúm.

This has twelve sanjaks; its officers are, a defterdár of the treasury, an inspector and deputy of the rolls and Chávushes, and a clerk of the Chávushes. The sanjaks are: 1. Kara-hisár. 2. Keïfí. 3. Pásín. 4. Ispír. 5. Khanís. 6. Malázgír. 7. Tekmán. 8. Kuzúján. 9. Túrtúm. 10. Lejengerd. 11. Mámar. 12. Erzerúm, the seat of the Páshá....

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The Province of Sheherzúl.

The Province of Sheherzúl.

This province has the full number of diván officers. Its sanjaks are: 1. Sarújek. 2. Erbíl. 3. Kesnán. 4. Sheher-bázár. 5. Jengúleh. 6. Jebel-hamrin. 7. Hazár-mardúd. 8. Alhúrán. 9. Merkáreh. 10. Hazír. 11. Rúdín. 12. Tíltárí. 13. Sebeh. 14. Zenjír. 15. Ajúb. 16. Abrúmán. 17. Pák. 18. Pertelí. 19. Bílkás. 20. Aúshní. 21. Kala’ Ghází. 22. Sheherzúl, which is the seat of the Páshá. There are some tribes in this province who are not governed by begs invested with a drum and banner; more than one hu

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Of the ranks of the Sanjak-begs.

Of the ranks of the Sanjak-begs.

According to the constitutional laws of Sultán Soleïmán, the sanjak-begs rank according to their pay, except when there is a deposed grand vezír amongst them, who in such case takes precedence over them all. The pay of a sanjak-beg is at first 200,000 aspres, which is increased in proportion to the period of his service, until he becomes begler-beg, or mír mírán. Should, however, one of the aghás or commanding generals of the military corps at Constantinople be made a sanjak-beg, his pay from th

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Of the Khás, or revenue of the Sanjak-begs, the Kehiyás of the Defter and the Defterdárs of Tímárs. Rumeili.

Of the Khás, or revenue of the Sanjak-begs, the Kehiyás of the Defter and the Defterdárs of Tímárs. Rumeili.

Khás of the sanjak-begs of the Morea 5,776 aspres; Scutari, 59,200; Avlonia, 39,000; Silistria, 89,660; Nicopolis, 40,000; Okhrí, 35,299; Yanina, 20,260; Terhala, 50,885; Gústendíl 42,400; Elbesán, 1,963; Chermen, 4,000; Víza, 34,465; Delvina, 7,132; Salonik, 80,832; Skopí, 40,000; Dúkagín, 27,500; Widín, 3,000; Alájeh-hisár, 20,399; Weljeterín, 50,000; Perzerín, 28,146; Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 1,426; of the defterdárs, 2,000; of the beg of the Yúrúks (wandering tribes) of Víza, 2,00

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Bosnia.

Bosnia.

Khás of the beg of Kilís, 42,500; Hersek, 10,515; Zvorník, 35,793; Poshega, 66,230; Zachina, 70,000; Karak, 30,000; Rahovicha, 70,000. Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 46,000; of the defterdár, 5,530....

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The Archipelago.

The Archipelago.

Khás of the Beg of Negropont, 40,000; Karlíeïlí (Acarnania), 3,000; Einabakht (Lepanto), 30,000; Rodós (Rhodes), 77,004; Mytylini, 40,000; Kojaeïlí, 6,526; Bígha, 13,088; Sighla, 30,000; Misistra, 19,000. Ziámet of the kehiyá, 8,390; of the defterdár, 22,077....

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The Province of Bude.

The Province of Bude.

Khás of Semendria, 40,260; Becheví (Fünf-kirchen or Fife-churches), 40,000; Oustúnbelgrade(Stuhl-weissenburg), 26,000; Osterghún (Gran), 10,000; Segdín, 40,000; Sirem, 25,675; Essek, 20,000; Shamtorna, 40,000; Kopán and Filek, 20,000; Nigisár, 34,000; Novigrád, 33,940; Sonlí, 40,000; Míhaj, 92,000; Siget, 4,230; Segsár, 34,000; Míján, 40,260. Khás of the Defterdár, 5,520; ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 3,240; of the kehiyá of the tímárs, 8,940....

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The Province of Temisvár.

The Province of Temisvár.

Lippova, 10,000; Kiánád, 20,792; Gúla, 28,945; Madava, 60,080; Yánova, 2,420; Ishbesh, 1,945; Ziámet of the defterdár of the treasury, 60,000; of the Kehiyá, 4,880; of the defterdár of the tímárs, 60,000....

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The Province of Anatolia.

The Province of Anatolia.

Khás of the beg of Sárukhán, 40,000; Aïdín, 34,600; Kara Hisár Afíún, 40,299; Angora, 64,300; Brúsa, 18,089; Bolí, 20,122; Kastamúní, 50,000; Muntesha, 40,800; Tekkeh, 28,000; Hamíd, 24,000; Jánkrí, 48,081; Karasí, 3,000; Sultánógí, 5,000. Ziámet of the kehiyá, 10,912; of the defterdár, 4,596....

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The Province of Karamán.

The Province of Karamán.

Khás of the beg of Kaisarieh (Cæsarea), 5,000; Begshehrí, 90,000; Akseráí, 35,000; Aksheher, 1,000; Kírsheher, 7,540. Khás of the defterdár, 5,000; of the kehiyá, 5,000....

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The Province of Kubrus (Cyprus).

The Province of Kubrus (Cyprus).

Khás of Icheïlí, 27,000; Aláíeh, 50,000; Tarsús, 45,260; Sís, 60,299. Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 20,000; of the defterdár of the ziámets, 70,000; of the kehiyá, 42,000....

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The Province of Tripoli (in Syria).

The Province of Tripoli (in Syria).

Khás of Homs, 20,290; Jebellieh, 34,180; Salamieh, 9,000; Hamá, 94,030. Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 13,000; of the kehiyá, 64,800; of the defterdár of the timárs, 40,000....

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The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

Khás of the beg of Adna, 95,000; Kilís, 2,827; Bírejek, 5,220; Makra, 30,000; Azíz, 20,000; Balís, 20,000. Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 27,826; of the kehiyá, 6,930; of the defterdár of the tímárs, 1,146....

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The Province of Zulkadrieh or Mera’ish.

The Province of Zulkadrieh or Mera’ish.

Malatieh, 50,000; Eintáb, 5,130; Mera’ish, 25,300....

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The Province of Sivás.

The Province of Sivás.

Khás of the beg of Amasia, 30,000; Chorum, 30,000; Búzouk, 300,275; Dívergí, 50,360; Jáník, 7,024; Arabgír, 21,000. Ziámet of the kehiyá, 80,200; of the defterdár, 2,550....

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The Province of Erzerúm.

The Province of Erzerúm.

Khás of the beg of Karahisár Sharakí, 3,000; Keïfí, 3,000; Básín, 94,000; Ispír, 30,000; Khanís, 80,440; Malázgír, 50,000; Turkmán, 4,929; Okúzján, 20,702; Túrtúm, 97,000; Lejengird, 40,000; Mámerván, 3,000. Khás of the defterdár of the treasury, 42,900; of the defterdár of the tímárs, 20,200....

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The Province of Kars.

The Province of Kars.

Khás of Erdehán Kúchuk, 9,030; Hújú-ján, 2,500; Rúshád, 40,000; Kázmaghán, 2,000; Kecherán, 2,000....

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The Province of Childer or Akhichka.

The Province of Childer or Akhichka.

Khás of Oultí, 2,017; Pertek, 2,190; Erdenúh, 70,000; Erdehán Buzúrg, 2,000; Shúshád, 56,000; Livána (two hereditary sanjaks), 65,000; Kharbús, 2,500; Sahrek, 65,000; Pústúkh, 6,500; Mánjíl, 3,229; Penbek, 40,000....

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The Province of Trebisonde.

The Province of Trebisonde.

Ziámet of the kehiyá of Bátúm, 3,000 apres; ziámet of the defterdár of the tímárs, 42,290....

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The Province of Díárbeker.

The Province of Díárbeker.

Khás of Kharpút, 9,999; Arghaní, 20,515; Súrek, 3,043; Aták, 47,200; Nesíbín, 30,000; Terjíl, 45,200; Jermík, 3,140; Husn-keïf, 2,955; Akíl, 9,675; Chapík-júd, 7,000; Jemishgezek, 4,223; Samsád, 9,057; Sha’ir, 3772; Akchakala’, 20,000; Sinjár, 1,517; Mufarakín, 20,000; Lisán and Búzbán, 6,000; Khákenj, 7,834. Khás of the defterdár, 40,395; ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 10,924; khás of the defterdár of the timárs, 8,000....

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The Province of Rakka.

The Province of Rakka.

Khás of Jemáseh, 5,122; Dair Rahba, 8,000; Kápúr, 10,000; Así Rabia’, 40,000; Sarúj, 20,000; Ana, 82,215....

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The Province of Baghdád.

The Province of Baghdád.

Khás of Zangábád, 70,000; Helleh, 51,000; Javázer, 20,000; Rúmnáhieh, 45,000; Jengúleh, 20,000; Kara (an hereditary government), 4,287; Derteng, 20,000; Samvát, 55,000; Derneh, 6,931; Dehbálá, 60,000; Váset, 20,000; Kerend, 29,260; Tapúr, 20,000; Karanieh, 20,000; Kílán, 20,000; Al Ságh, 200,000; Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 10,000; of the defterdár of the tímárs, 80,000....

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The Province of Wán.

The Province of Wán.

Khás of Adeljaván, 50,346; Arjís, 30,000; Músh, 1,000; Bárgerí, 20,000; Kárkár, 20,000; Keshán, 25,000; Ispághird, 20,000; Aghákís, 50,000; Akrád, 90,000; Wádí Bení Kutúr, 70,000; Kala’ Báyazíd, 1,044; Bardú’, 20,000; Wáwjik, 95,000. Ziámet of the kehiyá of the defter, 60,999; of the defterdár of the timárs, 3,870....

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The Province of Mosul.

The Province of Mosul.

Khás of Bájuvánlí, 15,000; Tekrít, 7,284; Harún, 20,000; Bána, 30,000. Section VI....

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Statement of the number of swords or men brought into the field by the Possessors of Tímárs and Ziámets. The Province of Rumeili.

Statement of the number of swords or men brought into the field by the Possessors of Tímárs and Ziámets. The Province of Rumeili.

The number of its swords or armed men is 9,274, of which 914 are ziámets, the rest tímárs, with and without tezkerehs (commissions). The Zái’ms, or possessors of the ziámets, for every 5,000 aspres of their revenues provide one armed man. Tímárís, or possessors of the tímárs, of from 10,000 to 20,000, find three men. Thus the militia of Rúmeïlí consists of Zái’ms, Tímárs, and Jebellís, or guards, amounting in all to 20,200 men. The sanjak-beg, the kehiyá of the defter, and the defterdár of the t

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Number of Ziámets and Tímárs in each of the Sanjaks in Rúmeïlí.

Number of Ziámets and Tímárs in each of the Sanjaks in Rúmeïlí.

Sofia, the seat of the Páshá, has 7,821 ziámets and tímárs; Kustandíl 48 ziámets, 1,018 tímárs; Terkhaleh 32 ziámets, 539 tímárs; Yánina 62 ziámets, 34 tímárs; Uskúb 57 ziámets, 340 tímárs; Ohrí 20 ziámets, 529 tímárs; Avlonia 38 ziámets, 489 tímárs; Morea 200 ziámets; Eskenderieh 75 ziámets, 422 tímárs; Nicopolis 20 ziámets, 244 tímárs; Chermen 20 ziámets, 130 tímárs; Elbesán 18 ziámets, 138 tímárs; Víza 30 ziámets, 79 tímárs; Delvina 34 ziámets, 1,155 tímárs; Saláník (Salonica) 36 ziámets, 762

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Number of Ziámets and Timárs in Anatolia.

Number of Ziámets and Timárs in Anatolia.

There are 7,313 swords, of which 195 are ziámets and the other tímárs; they provide 9,700 jebellí or armed men, and others, amounting in all to 17,000 men. Their annual revenue amounts to 37,317,730 aspres. The ziámets and tímárs are as follows: Kútáhieh 79 ziámets, 939 tímárs; Sarúkhán 41 ziámets, 674 tímárs; Aídín 19 ziámets, 572 tímárs; Karahisár, 15 ziámets, 616 tímárs; Angora 10 ziámets, 257 tímárs; Brúsa 30 ziámets, 1,005 tímárs; Bolí 14 ziámets, 551 tímárs; Kostamúní 24 ziámets, 587 tímár

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The Province of the Kapúdán Páshá, or the islands of the Archipelago.

The Province of the Kapúdán Páshá, or the islands of the Archipelago.

This formerly provided 1,618 swords; but Ja’fer Páshá, who was formerly Bóstánjí Báshí, during the reign of Murád IV. increased their number to 9,900: of these 106 were ziámets and the rest were tímárs; adding to them the jebellís the entire number was 12,067 men. The Arabs, the volunteers of the Arsenal, and the men of sixty galleys, also formed a body of 10,000 men. The annual revenue of their ziámets and tímárs amounted to 1,800,000 aspres. The following are the ziámets and tímárs: Negropont

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The Province of Karamán.

The Province of Karamán.

This province supplies 1,620 men, 110 of which are ziámets, the rest tímárs; with the jebellís they amount to 4,600 men. Their annual revenue is 1,500,000 aspres. Konia has 13 ziámets, 515 sanjaks; Kaisaria (Cæsarea) 12 ziámets, 200 tímárs; Níkdeh 13 ziámets, 255 tímárs; Begshehrí 12 ziámets, 244 tímárs; Akshehrí 9 ziámets, 22 tímárs; Kirkshehrí 4 ziámets, 13 tímárs; Akseráï 12 ziámets, 228 tímárs....

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The Province of Rúm or Sivás.

The Province of Rúm or Sivás.

This has 3,130 swords or men, of which 109 are ziámets, the rest tímárs. The begs, záims, and tímariots with their jebellís amount to 9,000 men. Their annual revenue amounts to 3,087,327 aspres. Sivás has 48 ziámets, 928 tímárs....

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The Province of Mara’ish.

The Province of Mara’ish.

2,169 swords, of which 29 are ziámets, and the rest tímárs. The begs, záims, tímariots, and jebellís amount to 55,000 men. Their annual revenue amounts to 9,423,017 aspres. Mara’ish has 3 ziámets, 1,120 tímárs; Kars 2 ziámets, 656 tímárs; Eintáb 2 ziámets, 656 tímárs; Malatea 8 ziámets, 276 tímárs....

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The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

The Province of Haleb (Aleppo).

933 swords, of which 104 are ziámets, the rest tímárs; the whole number of troops with the jebellís is 2,500 men. Haleb 18 ziámets, 1,295 tímárs; Adna 11 ziámets, 190 tímárs; Kilís 17 ziámets, 295 tímárs; Ma’kra 9 ziámets, 890 tímárs; Azíz 2 ziámets, 190 tímárs; Balís 6 ziámets, 57 tímárs....

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The Province of Shám (Damascus).

The Province of Shám (Damascus).

996 swords, of which 28 are ziámets and the rest tímárs; it has with the jebellís 1,600 men. Kuds-Sheríf (Jerusalem) 9 ziámets, 16 tímárs; Aajelún 4 ziámets, 21 tímárs; Lajún 9 ziámets, 26 tímárs; Safed 5 ziámets, 133 tímárs; Gaza 7 ziámets, 108 tímárs; Náblús 7 ziámets, 124 tímárs....

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The Province of Cyprus.

The Province of Cyprus.

1,667 swords, of which 40 are ziámets, and the rest tímárs. The begs, záims, tímariots and jebellís amount to 4,500 men. Cyprus 9 ziámets, 38 tímárs; Aláíeh 9 ziámets, 152 tímárs; Tarsús 13 ziámets, 418 tímárs; Sís 2 ziámets, 52 tímárs; Ich-eïlí 16 ziámets, 602 tímárs....

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The Province of Tripoli (in Syria).

The Province of Tripoli (in Syria).

614 swords, with the jebellís, 1,400 men. Tripoli 12 ziámets, 875 tímárs; Homs 9 ziámets, 91 tímárs; Jebellieh 9 ziámets, 91 tímárs; Salamieh 54 ziámets, 52 tímárs; Hama 27 ziámets, 171 tímárs....

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The Province of Rakka.

The Province of Rakka.

654 swords, with their jebellís, 1,400 men. Rakka 3 ziámets, 132 tímárs; Roha 9 ziámets, 291 tímárs; Birehjík 15 ziámets, 109 tímárs; A’na 6 ziámets, 129 tímárs....

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The Province of Trebizonde.

The Province of Trebizonde.

454 swords, with their jebellís, 8,150 men. Trebizonde 43 ziámets, 226 tímárs; Batúm 5 ziámets, 72 tímárs....

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The Province of Díárbekr.

The Province of Díárbekr.

730 swords, with their jebellís, 1,800 men. In the reign of Sultán Murád IV. this province provided 9,000 men. Amed has 9 ziámets, 1,129 tímárs; Kharpút 7 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Argháneh 9 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Sívrek 4 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Nesíben, 15 ziámets and tímárs; Berehjík 4 ziámets, 123 tímárs; Chermik 6 ziámets, 13 tímárs; Husnkeïf 45 ziámets and tímárs; Chabákchúr 5 ziámets, 30 tímárs; Jemeshgezek 2 ziámets, 7 tímárs; Sinjár 6 ziámets, 21 tímárs....

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The Province of Erzerúm.

The Province of Erzerúm.

5,279 swords, with the jebellís 8,000 men. Erzerúm 5 ziámets, 2,215 tímárs; Túrtúm 5 ziámets, 49 tímárs; Bámerwán 4 ziámets, 92 tímárs; Keïfí 8 ziámets, 229 tímárs; Malázgír 9 ziámets, 281 tímárs; Khanís 2 ziámets, 425 tímárs; Tekmán 1 ziámet, 253 tímárs; Kara-hisár 4 ziámets, 94 tímárs....

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The Province of Childer.

The Province of Childer.

650 swords, with the jebellís, 8,000 men. Oultí 3 ziámets, 132 tímárs; Erdehán 8 ziámets, 45 tímárs; Ezerbúj 4 ziámets, 49 tímárs; Hajrek 2 ziámets, 12 tímárs; Kharnús 13 ziámets, 35 tímárs; Pústú 1 ziámet, 18 tímárs; Benek 8 ziámets, 54 tímárs; Básín 9 ziámets, 14 tímárs; Alúrí 9 ziámets, 10 tímárs; Oustjeh 8 ziámets, 17 tímárs; Cháklik 33 tímárs; Jetla 13 ziámets, 14 tímárs; Ispír 1 ziámet, 4 tímárs; Petek 3 ziámets, 98 tímárs....

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The Province of Wán.

The Province of Wán.

Regulars and jebellís 1,300 men. Wán has 48 ziámets, 45 tímárs; Shevergír 47 ziámets, 33 tímárs; Júbánlú 2 ziámets, 26 tímárs; Wedáleh 7 ziámets, 21 tímárs; Kala’ Báyazíd 4 ziámets, 125 tímárs; Arjísh 14 ziámets, 86 tímárs; Aduljeváz 9 ziámets, 101 tímárs; Kúrládek 7 ziámets, 67 tímárs. In the reign of Sultán Soleïmán the feudal force of Rúmeïlí amounted to 91,600 men. On so firm a foundation had he established the Ottoman empire, that when he made war in Europe he required not the troops of Asi

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The order of the Diván.

The order of the Diván.

Before the time of Sultán Soleïmán there was no regular diván. He held a grand diván on four days during the week, composed of the seven vezírs of the cupola, the two judges of the army, the Aghá of the Janissaries and of the six bodies of cavalry. The Chávush-báshí (marshal of the court); and the Kapíjílár Kehiyásí (chief chamberlain) were required to attend on such days with their silver staffs of office. The grand vezír gave judgment on all law-suits; and the Kapúdán Páshá, seated without the

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The conquests and victories of Soleïmán.

The conquests and victories of Soleïmán.

His first conquest was the defeat of the Circassian governor of Syria, Ján Yazdí Ghazálí Khán, whose rebellious head Ferhád Páshá severed from its body, and sent to the Sublime Porte in 927 (A.D. 1520). The conquest of Yemen and death of Iskender the rebel 927 (1520). The reduction of Belgrade and Tekúrlen, of Slankement and Kópanik in the same year. The conquest of Rodos (Rhodes) in 928 (1521); of the fortresses of Iskaradín, Helka, Eiligí, the island of Injírlí, the fortress of Takhtalú, Istan

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The Reign of Sultán Selím II.

The Reign of Sultán Selím II.

Sultán Selím the son of Sultán Soleïmán Khán was born in 931, and ascended the throne in 974 (1566). He was an amiable monarch, took much delight in the conversation of poets and learned men, and indulged in pleasure and gaiety. His vezírs were,—the grand vezírs Sokollí Mohammed Páshá, Ahmed Páshá (the conqueror of Temisvár), Piáleh Páshá, (the Kapúdán Páshá), Zál Mahmúd Páshá, Láleh Mustafá Páshá, and Tútúnsez Husain Páshá. These were vezírs endowed with the wisdom of Aristotle. The Mír-mírán,

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Defterdárs and Nishánjís.

Defterdárs and Nishánjís.

Murád Chelebí, Dervísh Chelebí the son of Bábá the painter, Lálá-zádeh, Mohammed Chelebí, Memí Chelebí, Abd-ul-ghafúr Chelebí, Moharrem Chelebi: Fírúz-beg the Nishánjí (lord privy seal), Mohammed Chelebí, nephew of the late Nishánjí Jelál-zádeh Beg. The most distinguished of the Ulemá in his reign were,—Yehíá Efendí from Beshiktásh; Mevlena Mohammed Ben Abd-ul-waháb; Mevlena Musalih-ud-din; Mevlena Ja’fer Efendí; Mevlená Ata-allah Efendí; Mevlena Mohammed Chelebí; Ahmed Chelebí; Abd-ul-kerím Ben

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Physicians.

Physicians.

Mevlená Hakím Sinán, Hakím Othmán Efendí, Mevlená Hakím Isá, Hakím Is’hák, Hakím Bder-ud-dín Mohammed Ben Mohammed Kásúní, Tabíb Ahmed Chelebí....

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Mesháiekh or Learned Men.

Mesháiekh or Learned Men.

The Sheïkh Ala-ud-dín (may God sanctify his secret state!) was of Akseráï in Karamánia, and celebrated for his proficiency in the Ilm Jefer, or cabalistic art, Sheikh Abd ul Kerím, Sheikh Arif billah Mahmúd Chelebí, Sheikh Abú Sa’íd, Sheikh Hakím Chelebí, Sheikh Ya’kúb Kermání, Serkhosh Bálí Efendí, Sheikh Ramazán Efendí, surnamed Beheshtí, and Sheikh Mohammed Bergeví, who died in 981 (1573)....

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Conquests &c. in the reign of Sultán Selím II.

Conquests &c. in the reign of Sultán Selím II.

The tribe of Alián of Basra having rebelled was subjugated in 975 (1567). The expedition to Azhderhán (Astrachan) in 977 (1569). The conquest of Dasht Kipchák in 976 (1568). The conquest of Yemen and Aden, a second time, by Sinán in 977. Arrival of the Moors banished from Spain 978 (1570). Conquest of Cyprus with all its fortresses by Lálá Kara Mustafa Páshá, in the same year. Of Tunis and the African coast, by Kilij Alí Páshá in 977 (1569). Defeat of the grand imperial fleet at Lepanto in 979 (

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Conquests &c. in the Reign of Murád.

Conquests &c. in the Reign of Murád.

Lálá Kara Mustafa Páshá’s grand battle on the plain of Childer, 983 (1575), followed by the fall of the fortresses of Childer, Tomek, Khartín, Dákhil, Tiflís, Shebkí, Demir Kapú or Derbend, and the reduction of the province of Shirván, which was given to Ozdemir Zádeh Osmán Páshá. All these con quests were achieved in 991 (1583). The first royal expedition was in 990. The defeat of Imám Kúlí Khán in 991. In the same year the government of Magnesia was given to the Prince Mahmúd Khán, and in the

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Sons of Sultán Ahmed.

Sons of Sultán Ahmed.

Othmán; Mohammed, who was murdered by his brother Othmán, in the expedition to Hotín. Othmán was however unsuccessful and was also slain; thus was verified the sacred text, “as you give so shall you receive”. Murád, afterwards the fourth Sultán of that name; Báyazíd, Soleïmán; these two were both strangled whilst Sultán Murád IV. was engaged in the expedition to Eriván. Ibrahím was the youngest son of Sultán Ahmed. May God extend his mercy to them all!...

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Grand Vezírs of Sultán Ahmed.

Grand Vezírs of Sultán Ahmed.

Yávuz Alí Páshá, was promoted from the government of Egypt to the rank of grand vezír. Mohammed Páshá, called also Sháhín Oghlí. Dervísh Páshá. Ghází Khoajeh Páshá; who exterminated the rebels in Anadolí. Nasúh Páshá. Dámád Mohammed Páshá was twice grand vezír, as was also Khalíl Páshá....

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Vezírs of the Kubba (Cupola).

Vezírs of the Kubba (Cupola).

Káïmmakám Kásim Páshá. Khádem Ahmed Páshá. Háfiz Sárikjí Mustafá Páshá. Súfí Sinán Páshá. Khezr Páshá. Gúrjí Khádem Mohammed Páshá, who was made grand vezír in the time of Sultán Mustafa. Etmekjí Zádeh Ahmed Páshá. Kúrd Páshá. Gúzeljeh Mahmúd Páshá. Jegháleh Zádeh Sinán Páshá. Jegháleh Zádeh Mahmúd Páshá, son of Sinán Páshá....

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Celebrated Divines.

Celebrated Divines.

Mollá Mustafa Efendí, was Shaikh ul Islám, when the Sultán ascended the throne. Mollá Sana’allah Efendí. Mollá Mohammed Efendí, son of Sa’d-ud-dín Efendí, known by the name of Chelebí Muftí. Mollá Shaikh ul Islám Asa’d Efendí. Mollá Mustafa Efendí, tutor to the Sultán. Mollá Káf Zádeh Efendí. Mollá Yehíá Efendí. Mollá Dámád Efendí. Mollá Kemál Efendí, better known by the name of Tásh Koprí Zádeh. Mollá Kehiyá Mustafá Efendí. Mollá Bostán Zádeh Mohammed Efendí. Mollá Husain Efendí. Mollá Ghaní Zá

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Masháiekh or Learned Men.

Masháiekh or Learned Men.

Mahmúd of Uskudár (Scutari). Abdulmajíd of Sívás. Omar, known better by the name of Tarjumán Shaikh (interpreter). Shaikh Emír Ishtipí. Ibrahím, otherwise Jerráh Páshá, a disciple of the last-mentioned; Mussaleh ud-dín Nakshbendí, the Imám or chaplain of the Sultán....

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Conquests &c. of the reign of Sultán Ahmed.

Conquests &c. of the reign of Sultán Ahmed.

The grand vezír dies at Belgrade, and Bochkái appears in Hungary in the year 1012 (1604). Conquest of Osterghún (Gran); and Bochkái and Serkhúsh Ibrahim Páshá extend their depredations to the very walls of Vienna. Engagement between the rebels in Anadólí and Nasúh Páshá; the Káïm-makám Mustafa Páshá is executed. The grand vezír Sufí Sinán Páshá is deposed, 1014 (1605). Nasúh Páshá is appointed to conduct the expedition against Aleppo; Koja Mohammed Páshá is appointed to lead the expedition again

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Description of the Mosque of Sultán Ahmed.

Description of the Mosque of Sultán Ahmed.

The cupola is seventy feet high and is supported by four massive pillars, and four demi cupolas. It has no large columns within like those of Ayá Sofíá and the Soleïmánieh. Along three sides of it runs a gallery (tabaka) for the congregation, supported by small columns, and over that a second gallery, from which is suspended a treble row of lamps reaching half way to the first gallery. The mahfil of the Moazzíns is supported by small pillars like the mahfil of the emperor. The minber, or pulpit,

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The Imperial Expedition against Hotín.

The Imperial Expedition against Hotín.

Sultán Othmán having in 1030 (1620) failed in his attempt to reduce the fortress of Hotín, returned to Islámból, and in the following year he ordered the banners to be raised at Uskudár, as a sign of his marching to the southern provinces of the empire, to Syria and to Egypt. This caused a revolt amongst the troops, and the emperor finding no support, either in the seráï (palace) or in the barracks of the Janissaries, was thrust into a cart by the wrestler Bunyán and strangled within the walls o

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Description of the Gul-Jámi’.

Description of the Gul-Jámi’.

This is a very ancient mosque, and was known in the times of Harún-ur-rashíd, Omar ben ’Abdu-l-’azíz, Moslemah, Sultán Yelderím Báyazíd, and Sultán Mohammed the conqueror. In the reign of Sultán Murád Khán a great earthquake so shook it that its foundations were completely destroyed, and the emperor immediately undertook to repair it. Several thousand workmen were employed upon it, and in seven years it was completed. Several small cupolas were added to the principal one, whence it assumed the a

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Chronological account of the principal Events during the Reign of Sultán Murád IV.

Chronological account of the principal Events during the Reign of Sultán Murád IV.

Sultán Mustafá Khán ascended the throne on the deposition of his brother the unfortunate Othmán, who though he was considered weak-minded, was rather an intelligent prince, but unfortunately had not sufficient strength to extinguish the fire of sedition which had been kindled in his time, nor to subdue the revolutionary spirit of his troops. The Janissaries at the instigation of one of their ághás, Kara Mazák, gave the seals to Dávud Páshá, afterwards to Kara Husain Páshá, and then to Lefkelí Mu

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A curious Anecdote.

A curious Anecdote.

In the year 1056 (1646), when Soleïmán Páshá was governor of Erzerúm, and I, the humble Evliyá, was with him, Abáza Páshá again made his appearance on his return from Persia. Soleïmán Páshá immediately assigned him an allowance, and reported the case to the Sublime Porte. Abáza began to find out his old acquaintances, and soon became the chief of a party to whom he related all his remarkable adventures. According to his account, Sultán Murád being obliged to yield to the Janissaries, who refused

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Account of the humble Evliyá’s admission into the imperial harem of Sultán Murád, and of some pleasant conversation which he enjoyed with the Emperor, in 1045 (1635).

Account of the humble Evliyá’s admission into the imperial harem of Sultán Murád, and of some pleasant conversation which he enjoyed with the Emperor, in 1045 (1635).

It was in this year that I completed, under my tutor Evliyá Efendí, the study of the Korán, according to the seven various readings by Shátebí, and commenced a course according to the ten readings. By the advice of my father, Dervísh Mohammed Aghá, on the sacred night of Kadr, when several thousand individuals were assembled in the mosque of Ayá Sofia, I took my place on the seat of the Moazzins, and after the prayer Teravih, began to repeat from memory the whole of the Korán. When I had finishe

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List of the Kapúdán Páshás during the Reign of Sultán Murád IV.

List of the Kapúdán Páshás during the Reign of Sultán Murád IV.

The first was Rajab Páshá, who, as we have before related, captured three hundred Cossack boats in the Black Sea, and brought them to Constantinople. His successor, Khalíl Páshá, an Albanian by birth, took near the rocks of Flúra in the Mediterranean, a famous ship of the infidels which was called Kara-jehennem (black-hell), and which had a large mill within it, and a garden on the quarter-deck. Hasan Páshá, the son of a Janissary of Tahtáljeh, near Constantinople. In the year 1035 (1625) he bui

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The Muftís and Ulemá during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

The Muftís and Ulemá during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

Yehiyá, the son of Zekeríá, was Sheikh al Islám when Sultán Murád ascended the throne; in the year 1034, he was succeeded by Khoajeh Zádeh Isa’d Efendí, and in 1041 by Husain Efendí, who was slain in the rebellion and thrown into the sea. Yehiyá was then made Sheikh al Islám a third time. I was then the first Mu’azzin at the mosque of the eunuch Mohammed Aghá, when he appointed me his reader of the Na’át, in which capacity I attended him every Friday. The chief judges of Constantinople were, Keh

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Chief Judges of Rúmeïlí.

Chief Judges of Rúmeïlí.

Abdul-ghaní Mohammed Efendí; Sheríf Mohammed Efendí; Kara Chelebí Zádeh Efendí; Husain Efendí in the year 1037; Azmí Zádeh Mustafá Efendí 1038; Hasan Efendí 1039; Bostánjí Zádeh Yehiyá Efendí 1039; Abú Sa’íd Efendí 1039; Husain Efendí, a third time chief judge of Rúmeïli; Cheshmí Efendí; Husain Efendí, a fourth time judge of Rúmeïlí; Kara Chelebí Zádeh Mohammed Efendí, a third time 1042; Abdullah Efendí 1042....

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Chief Judges of Anatolia.

Chief Judges of Anatolia.

Azmí-zádeh Efendí 1032; Sheríf Mohammed Efendí, a second time, and his son Chelebí Zádeh Abdullah, 1037; Abú Sa’íd Efendí, 1039; Abú Sa’úd Zádeh Efendí, 1040; Cheshmí Mohammed Efendí, 1041; Ahmed Efendí Zádeh; Núh Efendí....

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Defterdárs during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

Defterdárs during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

Cheshmí Mohammed Efendí, 1032; Sáleh Efendí; Hedáyet-allah Efendí, 1033; Oshákí Zádeh Efendí, 1035; Abú Isa’d Efendí, 1035; Otlokjí Hasan Efendí, 1035; Abú Sa’úd Zádeh Efendí, 1036; Abu Sa’íd Efendí; Núh Efendí, 1039; Rajab Efendí, 1040; Músá Efendí, 1041; Jeví-zádeh Efendí 1042; Makhdúm Husain Efendí 1043; Azíz Efendí Kara Chelebí Zádeh 1043....

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Aghás of the Janissaries during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

Aghás of the Janissaries during the Reign of Sultán Murád.

Cheshlejí Alí Aghá; Kara Mustafá Aghá; Bairám Aghá; Khosrau Aghá; Mohammed Kehiyá Aghá; Alí Aghá; Khalíl Aghá; Soleïmán Aghá; Hasan Aghá; Hasan Khalífeh Aghá; Mustafá Aghá; Kosseh Mohammed Aghá; Mohammed Aghá....

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Sultán Murád’s Expedition against Malta.

Sultán Murád’s Expedition against Malta.

When Sultán Murád had returned from Baghdád crowned with victory, he was obliged to undertake an expedition in person against Malta, an island in the Mediterranean. The causes which led him to this determination are as follows. Complaints were made by the Musulmáns in every direction of the depredations committed by the Maltese Christians in every port of the Mediterranean, particularly on the African coast. Trade of every sort was at a stand, and the pilgrims to the holy cities were molested in

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Account of the Death of Sultán Murád.

Account of the Death of Sultán Murád.

The Togh (tails) and Seráperdeh (tents) were already raised at Dávud Páshá preparatory to a new expedition, when the emperor enfeebled by sickness found it impracticable to set out. According to the Arabic text: “Every one must perish,” and the Persian verse: “If any person could remain for ever upon the earth, Mohammed would have remained; if beauty could secure immortality, Yúsuf (Joseph) would not have died,” no one is exempt from destiny. And Sultán Murád being obedient to the call, “Return

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Vezírs of Sultán Ibráhím.

Vezírs of Sultán Ibráhím.

Kara Mustafá Páshá was vezír when Ibráhím came to the throne, and was confirmed in his office. Fearing he should fall a victim to the rebels, he fled from the garden of the Seráï to his own palace, and changed his dress, but he was shot by a bústánjí opposite the palace of Músá Páshá. He was buried in his own mausoleum at the Pármak-kapú. He was followed by Juván Kapújí-báshí, who died at the siege of Candia. Sáleh Páshá, a Bosnian by birth, from the village of Lúbin in Herzegovina, was put to d

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The Vezír who rebelled against Sultán Ibráhím.

The Vezír who rebelled against Sultán Ibráhím.

Várvár Alí Páshá, the governor of Sívás, having refused to give to Mavrúl for Sultán Ibráhím, his daughter, the wife of Ibshír Páshá, on the ground that such a demand was contrary to law, he was dismissed from his office; after which he placed himself at the head of a party of troops to maintain his cause against the order issued for his death. Kopreilí Mohammed Páshá took the field against him; but he vanquished Kopreilí, and on his arrival at Cherkesh, he was assailed and put to death by Ibshí

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Conquests, &c. during the reign of Sultán Ibráhím.

Conquests, &c. during the reign of Sultán Ibráhím.

Nasúh Páshá Zádeh was defeated in the plains of Scutari by Kara Mustafá Páshá. The Cossacks became masters of Azov, the khán of the Tatars having been tardy in affording it the necessary succours; in consequence of which, seven hundred vessels were sent to besiege Azov. The siege continued two months, during which time the Moslems reduced the walls of the fortress to dust; but the infidels held out, by subterraneous trenches, a month longer, when, on account of the approach of winter, the brave

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Defeat of Tekelí Mustafá Pashá.

Defeat of Tekelí Mustafá Pashá.

The Venetians having ravaged the native country of Yúsuf Páshá, the conqueror of Canea, who was a Croatian by birth, and having brought over to their interests the Uskoks, the inhabitants of those countries, Tekelí Páshá was nominated commander, and besieged the castle of Sebenico in the Adriatic sea for forty days. On the fortieth day they were driven from the trenches by a dreadful storm, after which they assembled in the plain of Vanul near Sebenico. The next morning they found themselves sur

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Character of Sultán Ibráhím.

Character of Sultán Ibráhím.

Kara Mustafá Páshá, the brave and sagacious vezír, being put to death, the Sultán fell into the hands of all the favourites and associates of the harem, the dwarfs, the mutes, the eunuchs, the women, particularly Jinjí Khoájeh, and the vezír Ahmed Hazár-pára Páshá, who corrupted him to such a degree that he received bribes from his own vezírs. He lavished the treasures of Egypt on his favourite women Políeh, Sheker Pára, Tellí, and Sájbághlí Khásekí; and squandered his revenues in circumcision f

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Reign of Sultán Mohammed IV., which may God perpetuate!

Reign of Sultán Mohammed IV., which may God perpetuate!

This emperor ascended the throne on Saturday the 18th of Rajab 1058 (1648), being then seven years old. Not a single falús was found in the treasury, and it was evidently necessary to collect some money by executing those who had squandered it away in the time of Sultán Murád, to make the usual largess to the troops. From the property of Jinjí were realized 3,000 purses; from that of the late vezír, 5,000; and from that of Sheker-pára, 1,000; so that on Tuesday the 5th of Sha’bán, 3,700 purses w

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Personal description of Sultán Mohammed.

Personal description of Sultán Mohammed.

Though very weak when he mounted the throne, he acquired strength when, at the age of twenty, he took to field sports. He had broad shoulders, stout limbs, a tall figure, like his father Ibráhím; a powerful fist, like his uncle Murád, open forehead, grey eyes, a ruddy countenance, and an agreeable voice, and his carriage was princely, in short, that of an emperor. The astrologers had predicted to Sultán Ibráhím that he should have a son called Yúsuf (Joseph), and possessing the beauty of a Josep

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History of the Vezírs.

History of the Vezírs.

Mevleví Khoájeh Dervísh Mohammed Páshá retired from the office of defterdár with the rank of a Páshá of three tails, and resided in a monastery of Mevlevís. He was appointed grand vezír when Sultán Mohammed IV. came to the throne; but having made immense confiscation of property in order to raise funds for the payment of the troops, he was obliged to retire to Malagra, where he was strangled. He was a just and valuable servant of the state. His successor was Kara Murád Páshá, who was born in Alb

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The cause of his fall.

The cause of his fall.

The garrison at Azov having mutinied for want of pay, and murdered some of their officers, three hundred purses of money were changed into ducats, and were sent off by messengers on horseback, it being impossible to forward them by sea in the winter season. These three hundred purses were levied upon the merchants and tradesmen of Constantinople, to whom the Defterdár Emír Páshá, Kadda Kehiyá, and the inspector of the customs Hasan Chelebí, distributed linen, red and blue Morocco leather, and dr

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Vezírs of Provinces in the time of Sultán Mohammed IV.

Vezírs of Provinces in the time of Sultán Mohammed IV.

During the rebellion in which Sultán Mohammed was raised to the throne, when the Janissaries were beaten by the Sipáhís, and loads of dead bodies were thrown into the sea, when Haider-Aghá-Zádeh, unable to make Seraglio-point, lost a great number of his gallies, on that same day, Murtezá Páshá was appointed governor of Damascus; Melek Ahmed Páshá was transferred from Díárbeker to Baghdád; Zilelí-Chávush-Zádeh Mohammed Páshá made governor of Jerusalem; Emír Páshá, governor of Egypt; Noghái Oghlí,

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Prince of Sultán Mohammed IV.

Prince of Sultán Mohammed IV.

The Prince Mustafá was born in the year 1071 (A.D. 1660)....

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Monuments of Sultán Mohammed IV.

Monuments of Sultán Mohammed IV.

He built a mosque at Cairo, on the spot called Ibráhím Páshá Kadam-áltí. Over the gate there is a chronograph by Zekí Chelebí, in the Talík hand. He also built the koshks of Jámlíjeh, Kara Aghach, Ak-bikár, and the Adálet, which was rebuilt after the fire in the imperial palace; all in the year 1071 (1660)....

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Victories and Conquests, at which Sultán Mohammed IV. was present in person.

Victories and Conquests, at which Sultán Mohammed IV. was present in person.

The first was the execution of the rebels in the At-maidán. In the same month the rebel Haider Oghlí was defeated in Anatolia, and carried prisoner to Constantinople by the Aghá of the Turcomans, Kara Abáza. The vezír, Khoajeh Mevleví, seeing that his thigh-bone was broken by a musket-ball, and that there was no hope of his recovery, ordered him to be executed immediately. He was therefore hanged at the gate called Parmak-kapú, where his body remained three days, and was afterwards thrown into t

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Defeat of the Druses in Syria by Murtezá Páshá.

Defeat of the Druses in Syria by Murtezá Páshá.

Yúváshjí Mohammed Aghá and Na’lband Alí Aghá, the commanders of Safet, owed one thousand purses which were to be paid by the Druses; but as the payment was delayed, Murtezá Páshá took the field against them with seventy banners. A great battle took place at Nákúra, where the Druses were beaten; and instead of one thousand purses, were now obliged to pay three thousand. I, the humble writer, had this year (1059) made the pilgrimage to Mecca by way of Egypt, and on my return to Syria was present a

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Conquest of Selina and Retimo in Candia.

Conquest of Selina and Retimo in Candia.

In the same year Dashnik and Hainafí, two rebels who were offended with Melek Ahmed Páshá because they had not received the appointment of Aghás of the Turcomans, assembled a number of troops at Scutari, ravaged Anatolia, pillaged a caravan, and pitched their camp between Lefkeh and Súgúd. Melek Páshá, with the troops of some other Páshás, attacked them in this place, reduced their strength, and chased the greater part of them into the mountains. Dashnik Emerza and Hainafi Khalífeh were made pri

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Defeat of the Infidel Fleet by Kapudán Chávush Zádeh.

Defeat of the Infidel Fleet by Kapudán Chávush Zádeh.

This Kapudán brought to Constantinople three gallies and a gallion, which he had taken from the fleet of the despicable infidels....

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Attack on the Cossacks, by Mohammed Gheráï Khán, at Oczakov.

Attack on the Cossacks, by Mohammed Gheráï Khán, at Oczakov.

The result of this expedition by this brave Tátár, was the capture of one hundred and fifty thousand prisoners. In the same year, Kalghá Sultán made an inroad upon Moldavia, penetrating as far as Yassy, Fokshan, and Hotín, and carrying off one hundred and fifty thousand prisoners, and one hundred thousand head of cattle of various kinds. The Cossacks were also defeated near Varna by Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, attacking their boats which had been left upon the shore, took twenty of them, but the res

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Defeat of Rakoczy.

Defeat of Rakoczy.

Rakoczy, who had been named King of Poland by the grand vezír Boyúní, Egrí, but was not acknowledged as such by his successor Kopreïlí, assembled two hundred thousand men, in order to support his claim against the Poles, who had sent an envoy to request the assistance of the Ottoman arms. In consequence of this application, the Tátár Khán, Melek Mohammed Gheráï, and Melek Ahmed Páshá, the governor of Oczakov, took the field against Rakoczy, who was defeated, and fled with three hundred horsemen

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Description of the Mosque of the Válideh.

Description of the Mosque of the Válideh.

This building was undertaken, at an immense expense, by the Sultáneh Válideh, the mother of Mohammed II.; but at her death it remained unfinished, and fell into decay. It was then called zulmíeh (the dark); but, when the Válideh was travelling in the country, after the burning of Constantinople, the foundations were cleared of the rubbish, and the sultán, devoting five thousand purses from his own treasury, ordered the building to be completed. It was then called a’dlíeh (the just). It is now th

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Description of the Mosque of Abul-vafá.

Description of the Mosque of Abul-vafá.

The eleventh imperial mosque is that of the sheikh Abul-vafá, built by Sultán Mohammed, on a small scale, but eminent on account of its age and sanctity. It has one mináreh, a court, a school, and a bath....

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Description of the Mosque of Emír Najárí.

Description of the Mosque of Emír Najárí.

This, like the former, is a small mosque, built by Sultán Mohammed the Conqueror. It has a mináreh and an imáret (refectory)....

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The Fat’híeh Mosque.

The Fat’híeh Mosque.

This mosque was formerly a large convent, and was converted into a mosque by Sultán Mohammed the Conqueror, who also built the Orta-jámi’, or the mosque of the Janissaries, in the middle of their barracks. It was destroyed by fire, but rebuilt by Soleïmán Kehiyá. The above are the imperial mosques within the walls of Constantinople; the most remarkable of those in the suburbs are the following: The mosque of Eyúb; the mosque of Jehángír at Top-kháneh; the mosque of Mohammed II. in the castle of

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Of the Mosques of the Vezírs at Constantinople.

Of the Mosques of the Vezírs at Constantinople.

The most ancient of these is the mosque of Mahmúd Páshá, near the new bezestán, as large as an imperial mosque. It has three cupolas, three gates, and a spacious court. Over the principal gate there is written in Arabic: “May God sanctify this good place to us,” which is a chronograph. The second is the mosque of Mollá Khair-ad-dín within the Corn-market, and, like the former, was built in the time of Sultán Mohammed II. When Khair-ad-dín was building it, he was one day disturbed in his meditati

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The Old Mesjids, or small Mosques of Constantinople.

The Old Mesjids, or small Mosques of Constantinople.

Sultán Mohammed II. alone consecrated one hundred and seventy mesjids at Constantinople. The mesjid of the Crimea, near the old barracks; that of Mohí-ad-dín, near the mosque of Mohammed II.; Khárájí Beg, near the corn-market, over the door of which the architect has formed most ingeniously, with red and white bricks, “There is no god but God; Mohammed is his Prophet.” The mesjid of Sáleh Páshá, near the corn-market; of Haider Páshá, in the same neighbourhood; of Hájí Hasan, near the last, built

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Of the Medresehs or Colleges.

Of the Medresehs or Colleges.

The first college founded at Constantinople after its conquest by Sultán Mohammed was that of Ayá Sofía; the next was the foundation of the eight colleges on the right and left, that is, on the north and south of Sultán Mohammed’s mosque; these eight colleges may be compared to eight regions of Paradise. The Sultán also founded a school for the reading of the Korán on a spot adjoining the college, and on the east a hospital for the poor. This hospital is a model for all such foundations. On the

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Of the Dár-ul-kirá of Constantinople.

Of the Dár-ul-kirá of Constantinople.

Each grand mosque has a dár-ul-kirá , or school for the reading of the Korán, the most remarkable of which is the dár-ul-kirá of Sultán Soleïmán. Those of Khosrou Kehiyá, near the mosque of Etmekjí Zádeh Ahmed Páshá; of Sa’dí Chelebí; of Muftí Zádeh; and of Bosnalí Ahmed Páshá, were all built by the celebrated architect Sinán....

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Of the Mekteb, or Boys’ Schools.

Of the Mekteb, or Boys’ Schools.

Each imperial mosque has a school attached to it. There are besides these, the schools of Kara Mustafá Páshá, opposite the monument of the same name: it is a large establishment; the school of Khosrou Páshá, near the Yeníbághcheh; of Aghá Kapú-sí, near the mosque of Sultán Soleïmán, which is attended by three or four hundred boys; of Pápás Oghlí, near the corn-market; of Aáshik Páshá; of Alí Jemálí, at Zírek; and of Mohammed Páshá, in the quarter of Khoájeh Páshá....

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Of the Dár-ul-hadíth, or Tradition Schools.

Of the Dár-ul-hadíth, or Tradition Schools.

The traditions are read at all the Imperial mosques according to the principles of Moslem and Bokhárí . The schools built especially for that object are: the dár-ul-hadíth of Hasan Efendí, near Keskindeh; of Mollá Is’hák Chelebí, built A.H. 926; and of Dámád Mohammed Efendí, near the mosque of Sinán....

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Of the Tekíeh, or Convents of Dervíshes.

Of the Tekíeh, or Convents of Dervíshes.

The most ancient of these is the one founded by Mohammed II., within the grand gate of Ayá Sófíya, and is called Sirkejí Tekíeh. It was founded when Moslema and Eyúb besieged Constantinople, and was afterwards turned into a nunnery; but on Mohammed’s conquering Constantinople he again made it a convent. Its first Sheikh was Oveis, who had the charge of seventy-four disciples. He was buried at Damascus, near Belál the Abyssinian: may God sanctify his secret state! The other tekíehs are those of A

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Of the Imáret, or Refectories.

Of the Imáret, or Refectories.

Praise be to God! who, according to the sacred text of the Korán: “There is no beast on the earth for which God hath not made a provision,” has provided a plentiful supply for the poor by the foundation of Sultán Mohammed II. at the new palace, in which food is distributed to them three times a day; at the Imáret of Sultán Báyazíd twice; the same at the imárets of Sultán Selím I.; Soleïmán; Prince Mohammed; Ahmed; Eyúb; Khasekí Sultán, near the women-market; Vafá Sultán; Prince Jehángír, near th

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Of the Tímáristán and Moristán, or Hospitals.

Of the Tímáristán and Moristán, or Hospitals.

The Tímár-kháneh of Mohammed II., which consists of seventy rooms, covered with eighty cupolas, is attended by two hundred servants, a physician-general, and a surgeon. All travellers who fall sick are received into this hospital, and are well attended to. They have excellent food twice a day; even pheasants, partridges, and other delicate birds are supplied. If such are not at hand in the hospital, it is provided by the charter of foundation that they shall be furnished from the imárets of Sult

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Of the principal Palaces of Constantinople.

Of the principal Palaces of Constantinople.

One of the grandest of these is that of Ibráhím Páshá, the Vezír of Sultán Soleïmán, on the At-maidán, in which two thousand pages of the seráï were formerly educated. It is next in point of magnitude to the imperial seráï. The Seráï of Mehrmáh, near the mosque of Sultán Báyazíd, consists of seven hundred separate apartments. But even larger than this is the seráï of Siyávush Páshá, to the north of the mosque of Sultán Soleïmán, which has three hundred rooms, seven baths, fifty shops, and stable

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Of the Grand Kháns for Merchants.

Of the Grand Kháns for Merchants.

The first is the Khoájeh Khán, near the Mahmúd Páshá, in which all the great Persian merchants have their establishments. It has seventy rooms. The khán of Mahmúd Páshá has one hundred and twenty rooms; the Kebejílar Khán one hundred rooms: this is the residence of the rich Bulgarian merchants; the khán of Pírí Páshá, eighty rooms; Eskí Khán, two hundred rooms: it was built by Bairám Páshá, the Vezír of Sultán Murád IV., and is called the khán of the captives ( asír ), because all captives are b

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Of the Cárávánseráis.

Of the Cárávánseráis.

The Elchí Khán (Ambassador’s Khán), even in the time of the infidels, was a khán for strangers, but it was endowed after the conquest by Ikbál Páshá; the cárávánserái of Mohammed II.; of Báyazíd II.; of Selím I.; of Soleïmán; of Khásekí Sultáneh; of Ahmed I.; of the Kapújílar, near Ayá-Sófiya, where two great kháns stand opposite to each other; of Kojeh Mohammed Páshá; of the Vafá; of the At-Maidán; of Sinán Páshá; Báklálí Khán, near the palace of Melek Ahmed Páshá; and of Alí Páshá, near the Bí

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Of the Barracks (Bekár oda).

Of the Barracks (Bekár oda).

The most extensive barracks are those called Yolgechen , which consist of four hundred rooms, and, in case of necessity, can hold one thousand armed men. The odas of Sultán Murád IV. are eight in number, and, like the former, have their officers and inspectors. Sultán Soleïmán one day being offended with the Janissaries, said to them: “Be silent, or I will subdue you by the shoe-makers at Merján-chárshu (the coral-market). This threat having spread, forty thousand Janissaries assembled instantly

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Of the Fountains ornamented with Chronographs.

Of the Fountains ornamented with Chronographs.

In the times of the infidels there was no other fountain except that called Kirk-chesmeh (supplied by the aqueduct of Valens). In other parts of the town they collected the water in cisterns, five of which were filled partly with rain-water, and partly from the aqueduct. Sultán Mohammed II., having finished his mosque, built two hundred fountains; Báyazíd built seventy, and Soleïmán seven hundred. Their number was shortly increased to thousands by the vezírs. Sultán Soleïmán repaired the aqueduc

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Of the Sebíl-khánehs, or Water Houses.

Of the Sebíl-khánehs, or Water Houses.

The Sebíl-khánehs were built to the memory of Hasan and Husain, who suffered martyrdom from thirst on the plain of Kerbelá. They are all adorned with chronographs. The Sebíl of Músá Páshá, near the Aláï Koshk; the Sebíl of Kana’án Aghá, opposite the grand gate of Ayá Sófiyah; of A’áishá Sultána, at the Okjílar-báshí; of Mustafá Aghá, the chief of the treasury, near the mosque of Ayá Sófiyah; of Erdebílí, near Ayá Sófiyah; of Kapúdán Kosse Alí Páshá, in the corn-market; of Abbás, the Kizlar Aghá,

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Of the Principal Baths.

Of the Principal Baths.

The bath is a legal establishment of the Islám, founded on the text of the Korán: “If you are polluted, purify yourselves.” The two baths which existed in Constantinople before the conquest were those of the Azabs and the Takhtáb. The first bath built after the conquest was that at the mosque of Sultán Mohammed II., for the use of the workmen employed in the building of the mosque. Afterwards the bath of the Azabs was converted to the use of the Moslems. The baths next built were those of Vafá,

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NOTES.

NOTES.

Note 1, p. 6, Section III. — Pillars and Rings. The existence of these pillars and the rings fixed in them is noticed in Dr. Clarke’s Travels. It is a curious fact that similar iron rings are found not only in the rocks at Parávádí in Romeilí, but also at Jáník and Natolia, as is mentioned by the great Turkish geographer Hájí Khalífah in both his works, the Jehánnamá (p. 627), and the Description of Romeilí: (Rumeli und Bosna geographisch beschrieben von Mustafa Ben Abdallah Hadschi Chalfa, p. 3

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NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,

NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS IN EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA, IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY,

BY EVLIYA EFENDI. TRANSLATED FROM THE TURKISH BY THE RITTER JOSEPH VON HAMMER, F.M.R.A.S., &amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c. VOL. II. LONDON: PRINTED FOR THE ORIENTAL TRANSLATION FUND OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND; SOLD BY WILLIAM H. ALLEN &amp; CO. LEADENHALL STREET. M.DCCC.L. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL....

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Note 1, p. 16.—It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top.

Note 1, p. 16.—It is a journey of two days from Brússa to the top.

The summit is easily reached in nine hours, on horseback, the journey having been accomplished in that time by the Translator, in the company of Mr. Stratton, the British Minister, and B. Bielfields, the Prussian Chargé d’affaires, in the year 1804. Evliya evidently places the time necessary for rest, and Turkish indolence, to the account of the length and difficulty of the road....

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Note 2, p. 197.—The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the Istikbál (solemn meeting.)

Note 2, p. 197.—The inhabitants of Tortúm all assembled to form the Istikbál (solemn meeting.)

See Morier’s Travels, First journey through Persia. Bushire to Shiraz : “At two o’Clock we came to Ahmadiéh, at half past two we passed a small fort called Khosh Aub , where a large body of people were waiting our passage. (In the Journey this is the first notice of the Istakball , which so frequently recurs in the future progress of the mission, as an honorary assemblage called forth to receive a distinguished traveller, and to conduct him in his passage.) They were all armed with pikes, matchl

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Note 3, p. 211.—The river Khalliz.

Note 3, p. 211.—The river Khalliz.

This was no doubt originally called Halys , which seems to have formerly been the name, not only of this river, but of the whole Kizil Irmák. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. THE TRAVELS OF EVLIYA EFENDI. Praise be to God! for before all things it is the duty of men and genii to praise him, who made the heavens and all the wonders therein, Angels and Eden, Húrís and Rizwán the guardian of Paradise; who created roses and daffodils, nightingales and murmuring fountains, pearls and

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Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania.

Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Modania.

It was built by a Greek Princess called Modína. Here I was first enabled to perform my Friday’s prayer, which I did with great devotion, and then went forth to view the town. It is the port of Brússa, and forms a safe harbour, being closed against the wind from seven points and open only to the North. The anchorage is excellent. At the head of the harbour stands the custom-house, the lease of which amounts to a million aspers. The town is built by the sea-shore, on a low rocky ground. Prince Ork

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Description of the Buildings of Brússa.

Description of the Buildings of Brússa.

The interior of the fortress contains two thousand houses, and many high palaces, but no gardens, there are seven quarters and as many mosques, one bath and twenty shops. The mosque of Sultán Orkhán is one hundred and ten feet square, with a mináreh of one story. Sultán Orkhán lies buried here, and the large drum called Orkhán’s drum is suspended in this mosque; it was used during Sultán Orkhán’s reign. The palace in the castle was the residence of the early Ottoman Emperors to the time of Moham

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The public Officers of Brússa.

The public Officers of Brússa.

The first is the Páshá of the Sanják, Khodavendkiár, appointed with a revenue of 618,079 aspers kháss. There are four hundred and twenty fiefs called ziámet and one thousand and five tímárs. The feudal militia is commanded by an Aláï-beg, Cherí-báshí and Júz-báshí, and assemble at the Páshá’s command in time of war. The Páshá leads five hundred men of his own. The judge (Mollá) is appointed with 500 aspers, and is promoted from hence to the posts of Adrianople and Constantinople, it is a high of

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Description of the Imperial and other Mosques.

Description of the Imperial and other Mosques.

There are in all one thousand and forty places of worship, three hundred and fifty-seven of which are mosques of Sultáns, Vezírs, and other great men. The first is the great mosque Ulú-jami’í built by Ilderím Báyazíd, on an airy elevated spot of Brússa, it is supported within by large square pillars, the bases of which are gilt and painted to the height of a man, with inscriptions, such as, Yá Hannán , “O all gracious!” Yá Mennán , “O all merciful,” Yá Diyán , “O all faithful!” Yá Hassán , “O al

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The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I.

The Mosque of Khodavendkiár, or Sultán Murád I.

On the west side of Brússa at half an hour’s distance, in a separate suburb called Eski Kaplijah is Sultán Murád’s mosque, built in a peculiar style, because the architect was a Frank. The lower part is devoted to worship, the upper devoted to science, is distributed into rooms for students, so that each may follow the Imám’s directions at prayer. The length from the Kiblah to the mihráb is one hundred feet, and the breadth seventy feet. On one of the columns appears a falcon, which having been

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Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I.

Description of the Mosque of Sultán Báyazíd I.

It is a small mosque, situate on the East side of Brússa, surrounded by fields and gardens, and not much frequented on account of its distance from the town; it is one hundred and fifty feet long and one hundred in width, in the old simple style, and remained unfinished during the war of Timúr, but was completed by Mússa Ilderím’s son....

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The Mosque of Mohammed I.

The Mosque of Mohammed I.

This celebrated and elegant mosque, known by the name of Yeshil Imáret (the green building) entirely built of marble, stands upon a hill on the East side of Brússa, and has two cupolas without columns, one hundred and eight feet long and eighty feet in width. It is impossible to give an idea of the mihráb (altar) and minber (pulpit) because the carving is beyond all conception; the only gate is also ornamented with such elegant arabesque carvings, that they could not be represented finer even by

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Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I.

Description of the Mosque of Murád II. the son of Mohammed I.

On the west side of the town is a certain suburb composed of this mosque and its appurtenances of colleges, kháns and gardens. The builder was Murád II. the son of Mohammed I. and father of Mohammed II. who died at Adrianople and was buried here. It is a holy mosque and has two cupolas. From the gate of the Kiblah to the mihráb the length is one hundred and fifty feet, the width sixty. The (mihráb) altar, (minber) pulpit and station of the Muëzzins (mahfil) are in the ancient simple style, built

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The Mosque of Emír Sultán.

The Mosque of Emír Sultán.

This mosque is built on a mound and is the last of the Imperial Mosques which I visited. On the east side of the town is the mosque of Monlá Arab Jebbárí, a small mosque built after the model of the great mosque Ulú-jami’í, its fine situation invites the people to pray there. The mosque of Uftádí Efendí is in the inner castle. Of the Mesjíds or small mosques (where Khutbeh is not said on Fridays) it is the principal. The Mesjíd Zeiniler, the building of the Muftí Abd-ul-latíf, where I read the K

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The Colleges of Brússa.

The Colleges of Brússa.

The colleges are those of Orkhán, Ilderím, Murád, Mohammed I., Emír-sultán, Issa-beg, Kássem páshá, Joneid, Kadrí, Tenárí, Zein-ud-dín Háfí, Báyazíd-páshá, and Hamza-beg....

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The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa.

The Convents, Imárets, Kháns, Fountains, Mills and Sebíls of Brússa.

There are three hundred convents, the most handsome of which are, that of Mevlana Jelál-ud-dín containing eighty cells for Dervíshes, and a place for the dance (sima’a). That of Emír-sultán entirely covered with lead, which stands on a high hill. That of Zeiniler of the sect of Na’amán Ben Thábet. That of Uftádí Efendí, in the inner castle, of Khalvetí dervíshes. That of Abdál Murád Sultán of the Begtáshís, men fervent in piety, who bareheaded and barefooted with open breasts, wait upon the Mosl

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Praise of the Baths of Brússa.

Praise of the Baths of Brússa.

The cleanliness and elegance of the bath of Sultán Mohammed is beyond all description; the bath of Ainebegí-Charshú was founded by Ilderím Khán; the bath of Takht-ul-kala’; the bath of Kayaghán Charshú; the bath of Bostání, of the castle of the Cutlers, of Murád, and of Ilderím, have all two rooms each (Chifteh). There are besides three thousand private baths in the palaces, some of which are also devoted by the proprietors to public use. The hot-baths in Turkish are called Ilíjeh; in Arabic, Ma

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Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán.

Description of the hot spring of Chekirgeh Sultán.

The building is small, but its water is very useful in leprosy; lepers who have been afflicted for forty years, are cured if they drink and bathe here forty days. Persons affected with this disease lose their eyebrows and eyelashes, and their breath becomes infectious. God avert it from us! There are for this reason separate quarters for the leprous (Meskin) in all towns in Rúm....

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Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)

Description of the sulphurous hot spring (Gogurdlí Kaplijeh.)

It is a small building, the spring is very hot and sulphurous; it is principally used as a remedy for itch and scab, and the waiters (Dellák) know how to treat people so affected. Those who can bear to be rubbed by them in the private cabinets for half an hour, will see within twenty-four hours a miraculous alteration; the skin peels off in black scales, and the body appears white as silver. In short, the suburb of old Kaplíjeh, where the above springs exist, consists of three hundred houses wit

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Description of New Kaplíjeh.

Description of New Kaplíjeh.

It stands near the town on a rocky place, and all the buildings are covered with lead, like those of old Kaplíjeh. It was formerly a small building, but Sultán Súleimán having been cured of the gout here, he ordered his Vezír, Sárí Rostem Páshá, to build a large bath. The travellers of Múltán, Balkh and Bokhara, say, that they have no where seen a bath so magnificent as this. Its dressing-room is a vast place covered with cupolas, capable of holding a thousand men; on its walls is written in Ta’

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Description of the Market of Brússa.

Description of the Market of Brússa.

There are nine thousand shops. The Bezestán is a large building with four iron gates secured with iron chains; its cupola is supported by strong columns. It contains three hundred shops (doláb) in each of which merchants reside, who are as rich as the kings of Egypt. The market of the goldsmiths is outside the bezestán, and separate from it; the shops are all of stone. There are also the markets of the tailors, cotton-beaters, capmakers, thread merchants, drapers, linen merchants, cable merchant

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Description of the bridge of Erghándí.

Description of the bridge of Erghándí.

A market for weavers is established on both sides of the bridge of Erghándí at Gokdereh (the valley of Olympus) the small windows of each shop look on to the torrent of Gokdereh, which flows beneath. The shops are covered with lead, and the bridge is shut in on two sides by iron gates pierced with loopholes. A part of the bridge is reserved for the use of strangers to fasten up their horses. There is no covered bridge like this, either in Arabia, Persia or Turkey. The name of this bridge, Erghán

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Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa.

Description of the Walks and pleasure-places of Brússa.

Of these there are no less than three hundred and sixty-five, so that there is one for every day in the year. The finest is that of Búnár-báshí, where if you eat roast meat and drink of the water, you feel hungry again immediately; of such digestive power is the water: a mosque adorns this famous walk. The walk of the Mevleví-kháneh, or convent of Dervishes, built by Orkhán, where twice a week the Mevlevís assemble for their religious dances (sima’á), and afterwards take their pleasure in the fi

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A Dissertation on Mountains.

A Dissertation on Mountains.

God created one hundred and forty-eight mountains, as locks of the earth, which is held together by them when shaken by earthquakes; this is hinted in the verses of the Korán, “His (God’s) are the keys of the earth and Heaven;” and again, “and the mountains as pales”. According to geographers there are in the first climate, nineteen; in the second, twenty-seven; in the third, thirty-one; in the fourth, twenty-four; in the fifth, twenty-nine; in the sixth, thirty-six; and in the seventh, thirty-s

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Description of the Ice-worm.

Description of the Ice-worm.

This is a worm, which is found in the midst of ice and snow as old as the creation, but is difficult to find; it has forty feet, and forty black spots on its back, with two eyes as red as rubies, all ice, without a tongue, and its interior filled with an icy fluid; it shines like a diamond but melts quickly away, because it is all ice. In size, it is like those cucumbers which are sold for seed at Lángabestán, sometimes larger, sometimes smaller. The ice-worm I brought to Sultán Ibrahím was smal

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Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa.

Language, Dress, and Manufactures of the Inhabitants of Brússa.

There are many thousand rich merchants and learned divines who dress in sable pelisses. Being in Asia, the language is related to the Turkish, hence they say Ahmed Chepú instead of Ahmed Chelebí; Memet Chepú instead of Mohammed Chelebí; Assmíl instead of Ismaíl; Jafár instead of Ja’fer, besides some words and expressions entirely unknown; young men of the town however speak with great purity. Their principal occupation is the cultivation of silk, the manufacture of velvets and other stuffs of Br

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The Climate of Brússa.

The Climate of Brússa.

The longest day is fifteen hours: the inhabitants are fresh-coloured on account of the healthy air, but as Mount Olympus intercepts the southerly winds, the air is dull and heavy when they blow. The youth are numerous and have been celebrated in many a town-revolt (Shehrengíz). The women are exquisite beauties, with well-arranged teeth, and well-arranged words; their hair curled and dressed in tresses is celebrated in the poetical expression Kessúí merghúleh. The men attain a very old age; in sh

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The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa.

The Eatables, Beverages and Fruits of Brússa.

The first is white bread of the kind called Súmún, which is as good as the best of Constantinople; then that sort of bread called Chákil, like white roses; the Gozlemeh, the Kerdeh, a kind of roast mutton dressed over a stove (Tennúr). The sheep which are very fat come from Mount Olympus. The white Halvá of Brússa is also celebrated. The beverages are the delicious water of the head fountain Búnár-báshí and seventeen other principal springs; excellent coffee from Yemen, very good búza, the sherb

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Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns.

Visit to the Monuments and Tombs of the first Ottoman Sultáns.

The Seljúk family arrived in the country of Rúm (the Asiatic provinces of the Roman Empire) in the year 476 (1083). They first allied themselves with the Danishmend family, and occupied with them the districts of Malatia, Cæsarea, Alayeh, and Konia. The Seljúkians took up their residence in the latter town, while the Danishmend family resided in those of Sivás and Erzerúm. Melek Ghází died at Nigissár and is buried there; Ala-ud-dín the prince of the Seljúk family, called Toghrúl-beg, the ancest

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Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán.

Short account of the Conquests of Osmán Khán.

He conquered the castles of Bílejik, Ainegol, Kara-hissár, Inogí, Iznik, Kopru-hissár, Elibád-hissár, Castel, Kítah, Bígha, &amp;c. Osmán-beg reigned twenty-one years after the death of Sultán Ala-ud-dín, and died at the age of sixty-nine, after having reigned twenty-six years, at the moment Brússa fell into the hands of his son....

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Conquests of Sultán Orkhán.

Conquests of Sultán Orkhán.

The Castles of Yází, Kogreh, and in Rúmelí, Yanbolí, Galibolí, Moderní, Kojá Elí, Iznikmid, Belakabád, Brússa, Taraklí, Goinek, Karassí, Bálikersí, Bergama, Adremyt, Ashlúna, Rodosto, and Búlair; the last was conquered by Súleimán-páshá, Orkhán’s son, who lies buried there....

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Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb.

Visit to Sultán Orkhán’s Tomb.

Sultán Orkhán died in the year 771 (1369), he is buried with his father Osmán beneath a cupola in the mosque of the inner castle; he died, after a reign of forty-one years, at the age of sixty-four; he was a mild monarch, a father to the poor, and a warrior in the ways of God. The divines of his time were David Kaissarí of Caramania, he was named Kaissarí because he was brought up at Cæsarea, he commented on the text of Mohay-ud-dín Arabí and was a second Taftazání in mystic science. He was the

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Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the great Saint.

Notice of Hájí Begtásh, the great Saint.

When young he never mixed with other boys but sought retirement and scorned all worldly pursuits. He refused to accept the dignity of Sultán which was offered him by his father, who died a Prince in Khorassán. Forty years long he did nothing but pray and fast, and arrived at such a degree of perfection, that in the night, during his sleep, his soul migrated from his body into the world of spirits, and he became filled with the mystic science of spirits, and divine knowledge. One Day the men of K

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Short account of Sultán Murád I.

Short account of Sultán Murád I.

He gave caps (Úskúfa) to the janissaries, embroidered with gold; built a mosque at Bilejk, another mosque at Brússa and a convent for Postín Púsh Bábá. He was assassinated in the year 791, after the battle of Khassova, by Milosh Kúblakí. A cupola is erected over the spot, which was renewed by my gracious Lord Melek Ahmed Páshá....

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Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár.

Tomb of Sultán Murád I. Khodavendkiár.

He is buried on the west side of Brússa near old Kaplíjah, beneath a large cupola. His arrow, bow and quiver are suspended over his tomb, with the bloody garment in which he was killed, which fills with awe all who enter this monument. He was seventy years of age at his death, and had reigned thirty....

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Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd.

Short account of Ilderím Báyazíd.

Besides numerous conquests in Anatolia, he passed seven times in one year from Anatolia into Wallachia, and from the rapidity of his movements obtained the name of Ilderím (lightning). He besieged Constantinople, and established a judge there and seven hundred Mussulmán houses, from the Flour-hall (Ún-kapán,) to the Rose mosque, also the tribunal of Sirkejí-tekkieh. In the year 805, following bad advice, he waged war against Timúr, and was taken prisoner by the Tátárs after a long struggle on fo

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Short account of Sultán Mohammed I.

Short account of Sultán Mohammed I.

He first shared the Empire with his brethren Súleimán, Mússa, and Issa Chelebí, whom he subdued in one year and became absolute monarch. He built Yerkoí (Gimgera) on the banks of the Danube. He died in 824, and lies buried beneath a painted cupola before his mosque called the green building, (Yeshil Imáret), he was forty-seven years old, and had reigned seven years. He was the first who sent a Surreh, or present of money, by the caravan of pilgrims, to the poor of Mecca and Medina. He finished t

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Short account of the Reign of Murád II.

Short account of the Reign of Murád II.

The soldiers having revolted, dethroned him under the pretext that he had grown too old, and put his son Mohammed II., who was only thirteen years of age in his place; but being found incapable to hold the reins, the janissaries again displaced Mohammed II. sending him to Magnesia, and recalled old Murád to the throne. Afterward in the year 855 they deposed Murád II. for the second time, and Mahomed II., then twenty-one years old, obtained absolute sway, and took up his residence at Constantinop

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Tombs of Ottoman Princes.

Tombs of Ottoman Princes.

Ala-ud-dín Páshá, son of Osmán, who died in 804, lies near his brother Orkhán; Shehinshah, son of Báyazíd, Governor of Brússa; Mohammed, son of Báyazíd, and eight princes, brethren of Sultán Selím I. whom he killed when going to war against Prince Ahmed, are all buried near Orkhán; also their brother Ahmed, who was strangled by Sultán Selím, and sent hither. Ahmed’s son Murád fled into Persia to Sháh Ismaíl, where, at the end of three years, he died, and was buried at Erdebíl near Sháh Safí. Two

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Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa.

Visit to the Tombs of Saints at Brússa.

Sheikh Geiklí Bábá Sultán was one of the followers of Ahmed Yessúí, and came from Azerbeiján. He used to ride on wild roes in the woods, and load gazelles with his baggage after he had harnessed them. He planted a tree near the Seráï in the castle at Brússa, which has now arrived at a great height. His tomb at Brússa in the great convent was built by Orkhán. Abdál Mússa, also a disciple of Ahmed Yessúí, came from Khorassán with Hájí Begtásh to Rúm. He was a companion of Geiklí Bábá, and was pres

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Qualities of a Mineral Spring.

Qualities of a Mineral Spring.

In the month of July annually, many thousand men from Constantinople assemble here, and live merrily under tents during the space of forty days and nights, amusing themselves with firing muskets and guns. Sick persons drink of the water from the well for three days, which causes vomiting, and relieves the stomach of a quantity of offensive bile, while the lower evacuations cleanse the intestines of worms and similar matters. It is a white, clear water, with a slight bitter taste, and issues from

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Pilgrimages of Nicomedia.

Pilgrimages of Nicomedia.

On the west side of the town is the tomb of Sheikh-zadeh Mohammed Efendí, a great Sheikh of the order of Khalvetís, and a great alchemist. He distributed food and clothes amongst the brethren of his order, though he never had any fixed revenue. I was entertained for ten days in the house of my relation Kúl-oghlí Mohammed Chelebí in this town; then embarked and went to the opposite shore only three miles distance, whence after a journey of thirty miles, we reached the port of Deal, the further si

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Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope.

Description of the Ancient Town of Sinope.

Omer Ben Abd-ul-assíz, the nephew of Súleimán Ben Abd-ullah of the Ommiades, having laid siege to Constantinople without effect, also besieged this castle, but retreated without taking it. It was conquered by Úlú-Beg the Lord of Kastemúní, and again in the year 796 by Ilderím. As it is an extremely strong fortress, it was with difficulty taken after the third siege. It is a free fief entirely separated from Kastemúní; a Dizdár, Serdár, a judge, Muftí, and Nákíb-ul-ishráf, are the authorities of

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Description of the Castle of Samsún.

Description of the Castle of Samsún.

It was first taken from the Greeks, who built it, by Ala-ud-dín a prince of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Sultán Ilderím; it is the seat of a voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge’s provision is fixed at one hundred and fifty aspers. Order is kept by a commanding officer of the janissaries (Serdár Kiayayerí), and the commander of the castle, Dizdár, but there is neither Muftí nor Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The inhabitants are all packers and boatmen, no great rich men (Awán) but a n

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Description of the Castle of Onia.

Description of the Castle of Onia.

It was built by one of the Emperors of Trebisonde, was first conquered by Keikúbád of the Seljúk family, and afterwards by Orkhán. It is the seat of a Voivode subordinate to the sanjak of Jáník. The judge is appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers: a Serdár and Dizdár are in possession of the military power, but there is no Muftí nor Nakíb-ul-ishráf. The castle is a square stone building on the seashore; the houses well inhabited, the mosques light, and the markets populous. Having seen all

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Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians; God guard it from all mischief!

Description of the Town and ancient Fortress of Trebisonde, the Capital of the Lezgians; God guard it from all mischief!

It was built by the Greeks and was conquered by Úzún Hassan, the Prince of Azerbeiján, but retaken by the Greek Emperors at the time of Timúr’s invasion, until, in the year 878 (1473), it fell into the power of Mohammed II. He brought forward an immense army by way of Jánkha, and gave battle to Úzún Hassan in the field of Terjián, where forty thousand of Úzún Hassan’s men were slain, and he himself fled to the Castle of Azerbeiján. Since the victory at Kossova of Sultán Murád I. no greater victo

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Begs of Abaza Tribes.

Begs of Abaza Tribes.

The tribe of Jájlar, of Erlán, of Chándalar, of great Chándalar, of Kechilar, of A’rtlar, of Kámishlar, of Sújelar, of Bozúrúk, of Kúnassí, of Ashuflí, of Yokarúlí, of Jembeh, and of Súntija. There are seventy Abaza tribes, who have made obeisance since the time of Sultán Súleimán, and who every year in token thereof, send in a tribute consisting of boys and girls, camphor, candles, pelisses, and a thousand pieces of coarse linen for towels for the Imperial kitchen, to the Páshá of Trebisonde, w

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The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde.

The Commanding Officers and Magistrates of Trebisonde.

These are the Páshá, Muftí, Nakíb, and instead of the Serdár of the janissaries a Chaúsh of high authority, a Kiaya-yerí of the Sipáhís, a Súbashí, an Ayák Náíb, a Mohtessib, an inspector of the Custom-house and of the fish-market, a Sháh Bender or chief of the merchants, an inspector of the dyers, of the wine, and wax, in short seventeen public magistrates appointed by an Imperial rescript. The inhabitants also possess an Imperial privilege which allows them to kill the Jews who enter the town,

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Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde.

Praise of the Poets of Trebisonde.

Ghanayí Efendí was Secretary to Tayem-Páshá, and afterwards to Melek Ahmed Páshá. He knew the dictionaries of Kamús and Shemií by heart, as well as the discourses of Urfí and Túzúlí. Ghanayí went with Melek Ahmed Páshá to his government of Rúmelí, and is buried at Sofía in the mosque of Dervish Mohammed Páshá 1021 (1612). Alí-jání succeeded to his father’s office. He left three volumes in verse and prose, in comparison with which Weissi himself is but a stammering child....

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Form and Size of the Town, and Description of its Monuments.

Form and Size of the Town, and Description of its Monuments.

It consists of two great castles between the edge of Mount Bozdepeh and the shore of the Black sea, and is divided into three parts; the first is the lower castle, the second the middle castle, and the innermost or tower castle, it is extremely strong being protected by mount Bozdepeh. The ditch is very deep, and seventy paces broad, all cut in lime-stone; inside this castle is a mosque, barracks for the garrison, magazines and storehouses. On the north side a gate leads to the middle castle, wh

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Description of the Lower Castle.

Description of the Lower Castle.

The north wall abuts on the sea, the castle is of a square form, nineteen thousand paces in circumference. It has also four gates, viz.—the gate of Za’anús next the prison gate close to the walls, leading to a long bridge; the gate of Sútkháneh leading to the quarters of the Christians; the gate of Mevlúz which signifies in Greek (?) a small stone, from the abundance of pebbles that lie on the shore. In the language of the Lazes, Mevlúz is the name of spurs or piers which are raised to support r

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Description of the Mosques.

Description of the Mosques.

In the centre of the castle was an old Christian church, Mohammed II. having conquered the town in the year 865, turned the mihráb from the east towards the Kiblah. Its mihráb and minber are of ancient workmanship, and on the east side is an oratory (mahfil) of most elegant carving. The wood is cypress, nut, and box; it is always closed, and reserved entirely for the Emperor’s use. There are besides three other mahfils or oratories supported by pillars in this mosque, where people are also allow

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Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c.

Description of the Scientific Colleges, Baths, Market-places, &c.

Outside of the courtyard of the mosque of the middle castle is the college of Mohammed II. with a great number of cells and students. There is a general lecture (Dersí-a’ám), the lecturer holds the degree of a Molla; it is a mine of poets, and meeting-place of wits. The college of Katúnieh is adorned with cells on four sides; the students receive fixed quantities of meat and wax for their subsistence. The college of Iskender Páshá on the north side of the mosque, that bears the same name, is ric

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Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde.

Description of the complexion of the Inhabitants of Trebisonde.

The climate and the air being extremely favourable, the inhabitants are all jolly merry fellows, who think of nothing but eating and drinking, of amusement and pleasure. Being all idle amorous fellows, their colour is red, and the women are fair, coming from Abaza, Georgia and Circassia; every one a moon or a portion of the sun....

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Occupations, Guilds, &c.

Occupations, Guilds, &c.

The inhabitants are divided from the earliest period into seven classes. The first are the great and mighty Princes and sons of Princes (Beg and Beg-zadeh), who are dressed in magnificent pelisses of sables. The second are the Ulemás, the sheikhs and pious men, who dress according to their condition and live on endowments. The third are the merchants, who trade by sea and land to Ozakov, into the country of the Cossacks, into Mingrelia, Circassia, Abaza and the Crimea; they dress in ferrájís of

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Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts.

Description of the principal Arts and Handicrafts.

The goldsmiths of Trebisonde are the first in the world. Selím I. being brought up in this town was taught the art of a goldsmith, and cut dies for the coin of his father Báyazíd, so skilfully, that they appeared as if engraved in marble; I saw some of this coin at Trebisonde. Súleimán (the great) himself was the apprentice of a Greek called Constantine, who was the foster brother of Yahya Efendí, who is buried at Beshik-tásh. From this time the goldsmiths of Trebisonde became the most famous in

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Eatables and Beverages.

Eatables and Beverages.

The water of Trebisonde is fresh as the spring of life; the must of the raisins of Bozdepeh is sweet, and gives no headache to those who drink it; the sherbets called the triple, the muscat, and the clove wine are the best. The gardens produce most exquisite fruit; fine flavoured grapes, cherries red as woman’s lips, pears of different kinds, apples called Sinope, figs called Bádinjíán-Injúr, which are not found so sweet any where else, different kinds of lemons, oranges of a deep purple colour,

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Walks of Trebisonde.

Walks of Trebisonde.

On the place of Kawák outside of the gate of Za’anús, the Páshás play jeríd with their troops on days of recreation. Three masts are erected in the centre, one of them having a golden top which is shot at by arrows. There have been no Jews at Trebisonde since the time of Sultán Selím, who was governor of the town, the following circumstance was the cause; a Dervish discovered on a piece of leather (saffian), that was handed about for sale, an inscription, written in a way not to be observed by e

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Praise of the River Khosh-oghlán.

Praise of the River Khosh-oghlán.

It rises in the province of Erzerúm, in the southern part of the District Kerkdeh, from the mountain called Yailak-mesjidí, and after supplying water to many gardens, passes on the right side of Trebisonde into the sea. On the mountain whence it issues, stands a castle built by one Khosh-oglán of the Chobanián family, but the mountain itself is called Agháj-bashtághí by the inhabitants; it is passed on the way from this town to Baiburd by a gate....

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Visit to the Monuments of Sultáns and Saints.

Visit to the Monuments of Sultáns and Saints.

The mother of Selím I. is buried before the gate of Za’anús beneath a high cupola, ninety men are appointed there to be monument-keepers and readers of the Koran, which is read through three times a day. She was a pious lady, a second Rabia Adúyeh. The cupola is covered with lead as well as the mosque near the monument. God’s mercy upon her! I remained three months at Erzerúm making the acquaintance of all learned and distinguished men, and then accompanied Hossein-aghá, the kiaya of Ketánjí Ome

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Description of Mingrelia.

Description of Mingrelia.

The sanjak of Konia ends at Khánedá the frontier of the tribe Ada Khosh of Mingrelia. The mountains are covered with box, and the gardens are planted with box-trees. We slept one night in the village of the Beg, who did every thing to treat us kindly. We saw more than seventy Mingrelian villages, each one like a town, and then returned to Konia; our companions went back to Trebisonde, but I was commanded to go with the company of the Zenberekjí-báshí of Konia to the siege of Assov. We embarked w

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Description of the Land of the Abáza.

Description of the Land of the Abáza.

It forms the northern shore of the Black Sea, begins at the mouth of the Phasus, and ends at the castle of Anapa near the island of Tamán. The following tradition is related of the origin of Abáza. According to the most authentic historians Adam was created in Paradise in the true Tátár form, and having after his exile met Eva on mount A’arafát, they begat forty thousand children all in the form of Tátárs. Adam having spoken Arabic in Paradise, forgot it when on earth, and began to speak Hebrew,

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Specimen of the Abáza Language.

Specimen of the Abáza Language.

One, if ; two, weba ; three, ikhba ; four, beshna ; five, khoba ; six, fiba ; seven, bezba ; eight, aba ; nine, sheba ; ten, zoba ; eleven, akzoba ; twelve, webazoba . Come, wai ; go, úchi ; seat, otúi ; get up, okil ; don’t go, omchin ; boy, arísh ; I go, sicháb ; wife, abharesh ; I don’t go, sikiján ; why, úzú ....

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Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza.

Specimen of the Sadasha Abáza.

One, weh ; two, toka ; three, sitte ; four, pali ; five, ashú ; six, korn ; seven, ipli ; eight, ogha ; nine, ipfi ; ten, zú ; eleven, wehzú ; twelve, tokazú . Bread, sakha ; meat, gha ; water, beri ; cheese, feh ; curd, chehwáh ; pear, kha ; raisin, mosú ; figs, lakhmak ; chesnuts, akshú ; salt, laka ; seat, otúz ; get up, odeto ; don’t go, omke ; I go, síkú ; where do you go, síoken ; I am busy, I go, súwú shakagh síkú ; bring a girl, zinje doko ; I found no girl, but a boy, zinje dokalmet zen

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Description of the Castle of Báliklava.

Description of the Castle of Báliklava.

Prevented by warlike expeditions from visiting with leisure the curiosities of Crimea, I dare not give a description of it; such is also the case with the castle of Báliklava. Having embarked here with three hundred persons on board of the Shaika of Úchelí Sefer Reis, I slept on board, troubled by heavy dreams; on the next day I went on shore, to do away the evil of the night by some alms, and next day got clear of the port in an evil hour, succeeded, as the text of the Korán says, by worse days

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Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán.

Description of the Convent of Kilghra Sultán.

This building is ascribed to Sárí Sáltik Sultán, who having been ordained a Dervish in the town of Yassú by Ahmed Yassúí, came with Hájí Begtásh and three hundred poor people to Sultán Orkhán, and was sent after the conquest of Brússa into Russia and Poland, Bohemia and Dobrúja. Hají Begtásh gave him a wooden sword, a carpet, a banner, a drum, kettle-drum and trumpet. Kilghra Sultán with seventy disciples spread the hide (on which they sat) upon the sea, and went, praying, drums beating and bann

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Return to Constantinople.

Return to Constantinople.

In the spring of 1054, I took leave of Kilghra Sultán and embarking with my four slaves coasted the shore of the Black Sea, so that at the least storm I could come to an anchor. Thus I passed on my road, Kavarna, Bálchik, Varna, Ahiebolí, Sízebolí, Missivra, Búrghás, Chenkina, the island of mirrors (Aina adassí or Inada) and the strong castle of Torkoz. Near this place is the flowery meadow, and pleasant place of Skúmrí-jair where the janissaries and kúrújis are encamped, and from hence watch ov

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Station of Gallipolis.

Station of Gallipolis.

The fleet anchored here after a salute fired from the fortress, and repeated by the whole fleet. The Mussulman victors all went to the arsenal to hasten the embarkation of the European troops on board of fifty barbaresque vessels, and on the opposite side in the harbour of Chárdák, the Asiatic troops were also doing the same. In twenty-four hours every thing was completed, and next day the fleet weighed anchor again amidst the noise of muskets and guns. We passed Tenedos (Búzja Ada); ten Firkata

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Siege of the Fortress of Canea.

Siege of the Fortress of Canea.

The camp being pitched round the Castle of Canea at a gun-shot’s distance, and every man having taken his post according to the orders of the Commander-in-Chief, the janissaries first entered the trenches. The next day the Commander-in-Chief held a grand review in sight of the Infidels, and in defiance of them, who were confounded at this show of the Ottoman power. As soon as he had dismounted at his tent, forty thousand men with shovels and axes began to work on the trenches at seven points rou

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Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá.

Cause of the Death of Yússúf Páshá.

Envious calumniators informed the Emperor, that Yússúf Páshá had secreted from the treasures of Canea three great tubs of gold, three millions of money, and a golden column; that he had not given a drop of the ocean nor an atom of the sun of his treasures to the Emperor. After his death nothing was found, and the column wrapt up in felt, which had been said to be a golden tree, was found to be a column of yellow stone, which was afterwards used to support the oratory of the mosque built by the m

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Gebíze.

Gebíze.

This was formerly a large town. At the time when Sídí Battál besieged Constantinople, a great convent existed at Constantinople, within the gate of Sílívrí, at the place now called the mosque of Koja Mustafa Páshá. Harún-ur-rashíd, built a fortress here and garrisoned it with three thousand men, in order to keep the infidels in check. The inhabitants of Gebíze having killed some men belonging to Sídí Battál, who commanded the garrison of the said fortress, he laid the town of Gebíze in ruins, an

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Praise of the Lake of Sabánja.

Praise of the Lake of Sabánja.

Its circumference is twenty miles, and seventy-six villages adorn its shores. The people who drink of its water are of ruddy complexion, and the products of the land are abundant; there are no vineyards, but a great number of gardens. On the borders of the lake there are melons and water-melons of such a size that two make an ass-load. On the lake are from seventy to eighty kaiks and boats, which are employed in the passage from village to village, and for the transport of wood. There are a grea

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The Station of Khandak-bazárí.

The Station of Khandak-bazárí.

A small place belonging to the territory of Koja Ilí, with woods, mountains, gardens, a mosque, a khán, a bath, a market, a judge appointed with one hundred and fifty aspers, an officer of the janissaries, and a Súbashí. In the woody marsh here, is a long wooden bridge (causeway) famous all over Arabia and Persia. We marched twelve hours further on through thick forests, and came to Dúzje-bazár, the first place belonging to Bolí, in a mountainous region, with a mosque and two kháns founded by Sh

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Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí.

Places of Pilgrimage at Bolí.

The convent of Yúzghád Baba near the hotbath. We marched twelve hours to the east, through cultivated villages to Kerde, the seat of a Súbashí subordinate to Bolí; a judge with one hundred and fifty aspers. The town consists of a thousand wooden and brick-built houses in a large valley, nine quarters, and eleven mosques, besides the Mesjíds; three convents, three kháns, two hundred shops, and seven coffee-houses. The knife-cutlers and tanners of Kerde are renowned for the knives and Safien of th

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Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání.

Pilgrimage to Habib Karamání.

Habíb was born at Ortakoí near Nikde, and is buried here. He died a Sheikh of the Beirámí in the reign of Mohammed II. Hamza Efendí was one of his disciples. We left Karajalar, and after nine hours walk, we came to Kojhissár a jurisdiction of Kánghrí. Its castle was conquered in the year 708 by Osmán, and destroyed in order that it should no longer afford shelter to the Infidels. Nine hours further on, we reached the town of Tússia, conquered by Mohammed I, the seat of a Súbashí, and of a judge

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Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the Dynasty of the Sheep.)

Pilgrimage to the tomb of the great Saint Koyún Baba, (Father of the Dynasty of the Sheep.)

He was the true successor of Hají Begtásh. Having appeared to Sultán Bayazíd, he ordered him to build a cupola on his tomb, a mosque, a convent, a meeting-place for the Dervishes, (Meidán), a caravanseraï with kitchen and cellar. All these establishments are covered with lead, which with the golden crescents on them dazzle the eyes of beholders even at a distance. The Imaret (kitchen for the poor) is smoking day and night. As soon as I, poor Evliyá, arrived here, I went to visit this place of pi

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Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh.

Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Burhándedeh.

A great Saint renowned for many miracles. The bridge, a work of Bayazíd II. is a marvellous pile of building of nineteen arches, each arch gives an idea of the rainbow, of the galaxy, of the girdle of Divine Power, or of the Ták Kosra. Its length, from one end to the other, is four hundred and fifty paces; and although the river was so rapid, the architect built it straight as the bridge of Sirát (over which souls are to pass on the day of the last Judgment). We halted here for a day, then again

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Form and size of Amasia.

Form and size of Amasia.

Its towers, crowning the height of the mountains are always veiled with clouds, and it is only at noon that the spires of the mosques, and the roofs of the houses are visible. Its circumference is nine thousand and sixty paces. In form it is a pentagon, extremely strong, worthy of being a work of Ferhád, with forty-one towers, and eight hundred battlements altogether. The number of the houses is not known to me. There are magazines, cisterns, and a road cut in the rock, leading down to the water

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Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c.

Inhabitants, Language, Dress, Provisions, &c.

The inhabitants are a set of merry jolly fellows, and are all red-faced and fresh-coloured; their occupation may be thus described;—first, the Zaims and Timariots and the Páshá’s court; secondly, the divines, judges, and professors; the Imáms, Khatíbs, Muëzzins, &amp;c.; and thirdly, the merchants and handicraftsmen. There are many well-bred highly-finished gentlemen, who speak with great eloquence, but the dialect of the common people is harsh. The wealthy dress in sable pelisses and Ferráj

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Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs.

Of the Walks, and Pilgrimages or Tombs.

There are seventy different walks; the first is that of the bloody fountain (Kánlí bínar;) it is so called because a wicked old woman having brought false news to Ferhád here, of Sherín’s death, he threw his hatchet into the air, and himself down the precipice, by which means he was killed. The tomb of Ottoman Princes, who are buried in the cypress wood, their names I do not know; the tomb of Zekeria Khalvetí, he was the first disciple of Pír Elias, and is buried near the saddlers’ shops (Serráj

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The Town and Castle of Nígíssár.

The Town and Castle of Nígíssár.

The next day we reached, in eight hours time, the seat of the Dánishmend family, the old town and stronghold of Nígíssár. Its builder was a Greek Emperor; it was conquered in the year 476 (1083) by Sultan Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, and became the seat of this dynasty; their second residence was Amasia. The Seljúks, who anxiously wished to possess it, laid siege to it several times without success. Its name is a corruption of Níg-hissár, the good castle. It is an ancient, strong-built

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The Hot-spring of Nigíssár.

The Hot-spring of Nigíssár.

It is a small hot-bath outside of the town to the south; the women and boys of the town wash their clothes here; it is a well-flavoured water, has no sulphurous smell, and is useful as a remedy in leprous and arthritic diseases. It is visited every year, in the month of July, by a great number of people, who amuse themselves for a month, and then return to their homes. There is a college, and house for reading of the Korán and tradition, but no kitchen for the poor; there are seventy schools for

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Pilgrimages of Nígíssár.

Pilgrimages of Nígíssár.

The conqueror of Nígíssár, Melek Ghází, of the Dánishmend family, is buried near the castle gate. God’s mercy be upon him! Chevregí-boyúk Sultán lies near the great mosque, beneath a cupola. We left this town and advanced towards the east, through mountains and forests. After six hours march we reached Kariebásh Chiftlik, the frontier of Sivás, here bordering the governorships of Erzerúm, with two hundred Armenian houses, and a ziamet. The next day, as soon as we trod the ground of Erzerúm, we o

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The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm.

The Governorship of Erzerúm or Erzenrúm.

It is situated in Azerbeíján and Armenia, and, according to some, erected by Núrshiván; but the truth is that it was by Erzenbaí Ben Softár Ben Kúndúz, of the dynasty of the White Sheep, whose ancestors had come from Mahán, and built the castle of Akhlát, on the borders of the lake Wán; they are all buried at Akhlát, and the ancestors of the Ottomans, Ertoghrúl and Súleimán, derive their lineage from them. Uzún Hassan, having become master of Azerbeiján, built the castle called Hassan, after his

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Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún.

Pilgrimage of Mama Khatún.

This lady is buried beneath a cupola, at the foot of a rock; she was the daughter of one of the Princes of the Aúk Koyúnlí, and lies buried here with all her children, but without any keeper attached to her mausoleum, she is buried in a marble coffin; near it is a mosque and a bath. Six hours further is the village of Habs, at the western end of the plain of Erzerúm; it consists of one hundred and fifty Armenian houses. All the principal men of Erzerúm came to this place with presents to meet th

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Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm.

Description of the Fortress of Erzerúm.

It was wrested out of the hands of Kara Yússúf, the son of Uzún Hassan, by Sultán Mohammed II. The khass of the Vezír is fixed at one million, two hun dred and fourteen thousand six hundred aspers; the whole province is divided into twelve sanjaks. The officers are a Defterdár of the treasury, a Kiaya of the Defterdár of the Timárs, a Kiaya and Inspector of the Chaúshes, an Alaï-Beg, and a Cherí-bashí. The sanjaks are as follows:—Kara-hissár, Akií, Pássin, Siper, Hassan, Melázgerd, Tekmán, Kúrúj

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Description of the great river Euphrates.

Description of the great river Euphrates.

The great river Euphrates flows through the middle of the plain of Erzerúm. Its source is at the bottom of the pilgrimage of Dúmlibaba, on the east side of Georgia; it flows towards the west, causing in its way many marshes and canals, passes before the village of Kián, the castle of Kemáni, through the Yaila of a thousand lakes, inhabited by the Curds Izúlí, joins the Murád (the name of which it assumes), and passes like a sea in the neighbourhood of Malatia to Samosat, Kala’aí Rúm, Birejík, th

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Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm.

Of the Form and Size of the Fortress of Erzerúm.

It consists of two castles of a square form, the distance between the two walls is seventy paces; the ditch is eighty paces broad, and twenty deep, but, on the side of the Gurjí and Erzenján gates, the ditch is not so deep: the whole circumference is eighty thousand paces, and it has three gates, that to the west is the gate of Erzenján, where the ditch is crossed by a bridge; the second to the east, and the third to the north, are likewise entered by crossing bridges. The first, which is the Ge

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Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm.

Praise of the Palaces of Erzerúm.

The palace of the Páshá has no less than one hundred and ten rooms of various sizes, for the Diván and Koshks; of the last, the two finest are those of Tayár Páshá, and of Benlí Páshá, with a bath and a fine fountain. On the outside, above the stables, are the rooms for the watchmen; the court-yard is a spacious place where they play the jeríd. It has two gates, one is that of the Diván, opening on the great road, the other is a secret gate, always kept shut. Erzerúm contains seventy quarters of

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Of the Mosques.

Of the Mosques.

There are seventy-seven mihrábs; the oldest is the great mosque inside the gate of Tabríz, with a minareh in the ancient style, built by the Princes of the Akche Koyúnlí, two hundred feet square. The mimber and mihráb are also in the ancient style; it is supported by two hundred columns of fir-tree, and the cupola is also of wood; on one side of the mosque the biscuit for the garrison of Eriván is kept. On the east side of this mosque, close to the wall, is an old college with two minarehs; some

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Fountains.

Fountains.

On the market-place, is the Source of Paradise, Jennet-bunár; and outside of the gate of Erzenján is the Camel fountain; on the fountain of Mustafa Páshá on the edge of the ditch, outside the gate of Tabríz is this inscription from the Korán saying:—“there are flowing fountains in it (Paradise).” There are seventy Se-bílkháneh, or places where water is distributed....

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Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets.

Of the Baths, Kháns, Market-places and Markets.

The most elegant bath is that of Ja’afer Efendí, there are seventy kháns, some of them for Caravans (Caravanseraï); some for merchants (Kháns, par excellence ); some for unmarried workmen (barracks); of the latter there are ten, where foreign workmen find accommodation. The Bezestán has eight hundred shops, four gates and a stone cupola. The markets of the saddlers, goldsmiths, button-makers and tailors are very elegant. The mint is near the gate of Erzenján....

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Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c.

Of the Inhabitants, Climate, Products, &c.

The inhabitants are all Turkomans and Armenian kurds, of lively complexion, middle size, stout, strong in youth, and vigorous in old age. From ten to twenty-five years of age they are extremely fine, but after that they quickly become hairy men, good natured and brave. The principal men dress in sable furs, the Ulemás in ferrájís of cloth and caftáns of Bogassin; the workmen wear abbas, and sometimes a caftán of Bogassin. During three months the air is mild and pleasant; the water is sweet and e

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Genealogies of Erzerúm.

Genealogies of Erzerúm.

Outside of the gates of the fortress on the east, west and north sides, is the suburb, inhabited by more than thirty thousand Rayas; on the south side, from the gate of Tabríz to that of Erzenján a wall has been begun, had it been finished, it would have made Erzerúm an amazingly strong fortress. Between this wall and the castle is the suburb divided into seven quarters. The suburb of the Tabríz gate extends from the quarters of Dáragách, and that of Dúlúkler to Gumishlí Kunbed. The suburb of th

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Description of Mount Egerlí.

Description of Mount Egerlí.

This is a high mountain, at half an hour’s distance on the south side of Erzerúm, its name is derived from its form, which is like a saddle (Eger); its top is bifurcated, it abounds in medical herbs, particularly in the Tútia flower, the scent of which perfumes the air. Oculists come here to collect the plant Tútia, and with it cure people who have been diseased for forty years. The odour of aromatic plants and scented flowers fills the atmosphere....

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Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr.

Praise of Balaam, the son of Baúr.

I once played Jeríd at the foot of this mountain, when I fell from the horse, and in falling said to myself, “Where art thou now, saddle-mountain (Egerlítág)?” Having recovered my senses I mounted another horse, and galloping full speed towards the mountain, I ascended it. I saw on the top a large tomb, on which I first said a fátihah, and having measured it by my steps, I found it eighty paces in length, with two columns, which marked the situation of the head and the feet. I was looking on the

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Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní.

Pilgrimages; Tomb of Sheikh Kárzúní.

His name is Ibrahím, his surname Abú Ishak, a native of the town Kárzún, where he was born in the year 352 of the Hejira. In his travels he visited Brússa and Adrianople and returned to Erzerúm, where he settled in a great tower within the gate of Tabríz; his tomb-keeper is a white-bearded woman, whom I saw when I visited the tomb. Shehíd Murteza Páshá, who was shut up seven months in Eriván, is buried at the foot of Abú Ishak Kárzúní, with Abaza Páshá, who was killed by Dishlín Hossein Páshá. O

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Stations of our military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík.

Stations of our military expedition to the Castle of Shúshík.

Letters of complaint arrived from Genj Alí Khán, the Khán of Eriván, stating that the rebellious Beg of the Castle of Shúshík had broken the peace by inroads into the Persian districts of Eriván. The sanjak Begs, Timariots and Zaims were summoned to take the field with half of their contingents, and to assemble at the Silver vault. The Páshá himself fixed his tent there, with seventy banners of Segbán or Seimen and Sárija (irregular troops), and four thousand regulars. The Beglerbegs assembled a

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Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan.

Size and Form of the Fortress Hassan.

It is situated on the northern side of the field of Pássin, on an isolated high cliff, so high, that to look down from the side of the hot-bath makes the head giddy. Inside there is nobody but the Imám, the Múezzin, and the Dizdár, or commander. Horses and asses cannot get up to this place. There is a small Koshk built for Murad IV. by our protector Melek Ahmed Páshá, who, at the time of the expedition to Eriván, was the imperial sword-bearer, having succeeded the former sword-bearer, who was re

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Description of the Hot-baths.

Description of the Hot-baths.

On the south side of the lower town (Robáth), on the Kiblah side, are several hot-baths; seven of them are covered with small cupolas, and in eight other places the water is boiling in the open air, each place being used for different animals, such as horses, mules, camels, sheep, and others. The water of these hot-baths is carried to distant places on camels, and those who are afflicted with leprosy are cured if they drink of it. Three hours to the east from hence, we came to the village of Sef

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Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis.

Size and Form of the Castle of Khinis.

It is three journies distance (if you walk fast) from Erzerúm, and is a square, strong built castle, in the centre of a piece of high table land, surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains. The height of the castle wall is ten cubits, it is six thousand paces in circumference, with a gate to the north. In the eastern quarter of the castle is a clear fountain. Below the castle, at the foot of the wall, is an iron grating, which intercepts the stream, and distributes its water into the gardens. Th

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Description of the Hot-bath.

Description of the Hot-bath.

Between the river Aras, the lake of Ván, and the castle of Arjesh, is a famous hot-bath, in the neighbourhood of the castle Zia-ud-dín. It is a curious fact that the springs rise in five or six different places; at some of them the water is as cold as ice, in others it boils like gruel. Here is a spring so cold that the hand cannot bear it, and close to it one in which eggs and sheep’s feet are cooked. Only one of these hot springs is covered with a cupola, the rest are exposed to the open air;

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Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík.

Description of the Castle of Shúshek or Shúshík.

It was built by Zia-ud-dín, the son of Sultán Hassan, and is a square castle, on the top of a high rock. The camp was fixed at the distance of a gunshot from the castle, and the siege began immediately. As soon as the Mussulman victors opened the trenches, all the guns were fired from the castle, and seventy men fell to the ground as martyrs. The Commander, Sídí Ahmed Páshá, exhorting the Begs, Beglerbegs, and other officers, with sweet words and presents and himself making all possible exertion

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Size and Form of Magú.

Size and Form of Magú.

It is situated on a high and steep rock, the base of which is thin and narrow, and towers into the skies, being inaccessible on all sides. There is but one gate to which you ascend by a small staircase cut in the rock like a minareh. Seven hundred houses afford lodgings to two thousand musketeers of Mazenderán, commanded by a Sultán (Beg) subordinate to the Khán (Páshá, governor) of Eriván. The drawbridge which leads over the river, to the Castle, is raised every night, and it thus becomes entir

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Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia.

Description of our journey along the Aras to Persia.

On the first day, we travelled for the space of eight hours along the Aras, towards the east, and arrived at the village Yailajak, partly Armenian and partly Moslím, subordinate to the Castle of Anek. Further eastward we came to Barúd Kháneh belonging to the Castle Shúshík, consisting of three hundred houses; saltpetre is produced here. Sixteen hours further is the station of Kendúsh Kia, on the banks of a torrent called Okhdere; we pitched our tents here in a flowery meadow amidst beds of tulip

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Curiosities of Uch Kilisse.

Curiosities of Uch Kilisse.

At the grand convent built by Núrshirván, every year forty or fifty thousand Infidels assemble from all countries of Christianity, to witness the solemnity of an old carpet being spread on the top of the mountain. They collect all useful and medical herbs growing on these mountains, and throw them into a boiling kettle which stands upon this carpet; these herbs remain boiling more than an hour in the kettle on the carpet, which receives no harm, to the great astonishment of many thousand spectat

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Pilgrimage to Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb.

Pilgrimage to Mohammed Sháh’s Tomb.

It is a great Convent of Begtáshís; more than three hundred came with drums beating and banners flying to give us welcome: a crowd of poor fellows all in raptures of divine love, by the prayers of whom I was restored to health. Next day we crossed a plain for thirteen hours, and halted three times on it. At the southern end of this field we pitched our tents on the bank of the great river Zengí, where the people of all the Kents of the neighbourhood, flocking together, brought us abundance of pr

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Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara.

Pilgrimage of Riza, the Son of Hossein Bikara.

The inhabitants of the kent told us, that it was the tomb of the son of Hossein Bikara, but on the marble coffin was written Murád Ibn Beháder Shefád Ibn Hossein Bákara. It is a high cupola, and the tomb-keeper is one of the descendants of Hossein Bikara. We continued our journey from hence seven hours along the Arash, which rises in the mountains of the Curds Bínpánshí, in the province of Ván, flows to the North and joins the river Zenghí. It may be crossed on horseback. We now advanced for som

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Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz.

Description of the Capital of Azerbeiján, the ancient town of Tabríz.

In the Moghol language it is called Túris; in the Derí dialect, Táríz; in the Dihkání, Tábríz; and in the Farsí, Tabríz: in all these dialects, tab signifies fever, and ríz pouring [dispersing], because the air is so salubrious, and the water of Aján so good, that people who come from regions where fever prevails, completely recover here; the fortress of Cairo is also a place where no fever is to be found. Tabríz was founded by Zobeide, Harún Rashíd’s wife, who, when pregnant with Mamún, built a

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Description of the Mosques of Tabríz.

Description of the Mosques of Tabríz.

There are altogether three hundred and twenty mihrábs, nineteen of which are Imperial mosques. The first is the old mosque of Zobeide, the cupola and walls of which are all inlaid with china (fayence;) the mortar of the Mihráb having been mixed with musk, exhales the sweetest perfume; its minareh is also entirely inlaid with china. The mosque of Motevekel is a mosque in the old style, with one minareh, which like the former is faced with china. In the course of time the builder’s name has been l

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Colleges of Tabríz.

Colleges of Tabríz.

There are forty-seven large Colleges, where lectures are held on all sciences; the first is that of the lady of Sháh Jihán: and twenty rooms for reading the Korán (Dár-ul-kira) but they read it wrong throughout all Persia. There are seven houses for reading tradition (Dár-ul-hadíth), but the doctors of tradition are not much renowned, because they confine themselves to the tradition of Alí and the twelve Imáms, and have some thousand books on the traditions of Alí alone; six hundred schools, whe

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Praise of the Air and Climate.

Praise of the Air and Climate.

By the mildness of the climate the inhabitants are all healthy and stout, with red cheeks and black beards, merry faces, and lips like rose-buds; the women are pretty, and conscious of the fairness of their skins are extremely proud; those advanced in age are of sweet company, so that the proverb, “the old is sweeter than the young,” may well be applied to them. The inhabitants are all Shiís or Mulhad (impious), a great number are Dumbúlí, Khaljání, Turcomans, and Gokdúlák. There are two thousan

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Account of the Persian Crown (Táj).

Account of the Persian Crown (Táj).

The shape is founded on a dream of Ibrahím, the founder of the dynasty of Sefí; he dreamt that he bore a child to an ass, that had seventy fingers. This dream having been interpreted as foreshadowing the Empire, he swore, that if it should be fulfilled, he would commemorate the circumstance, by wearing an asinine phallus in his turban, and by imitating the cries of the animal in music. This is the reason why the Persian crown and head-dress have the present shape, and why their music resembles t

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Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c.

Arts and Handicrafts, Provisions, Fruits, Beverages, Gardens, &c.

Painters, architects, goldsmiths, and tailors are nowhere to be found so perfect as here. Precious stuffs manufactured here go all over the world; the velvet is much renowned. The provisions consist of the white bread called Kerde, and Súmún, cracknels, pastry, roasts, chicken pies, forty different kinds of pilaw with spices, the Herisse and sweetmeat, Palúde. Among the abundance of delicious fruits are particularly the pears and exquisite apricots, they are not found in such perfection even at

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Account of a curious Conversation.

Account of a curious Conversation.

One day being in company with the Sháh he presented me with the purest wine. I said, “By God! with God! through God! and by Ali’s purest spirit, since I was born I never drank wine or any other spirituous liquor, and since our great ancestor Khoja Ahmed Yessúí, none of our family have ate or drank any thing of an intoxicating quality. I beg, therefore, to be excused by you.” The Khán said, “My beloved and darling brother, what are you afraid of; if it is of your Emperor, he is five months journe

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General Praise of Tabríz.

General Praise of Tabríz.

The first and most agreeable properties of Tabríz is the abundance of water, by which means the streets are washed and cleansed from all dust, as though it was continually New Year’s day. The second praiseworthy circumstance is, that the Sherífs or descendants of Mohammed do not give their daughters indiscriminately to servants, but only to their equals. They proposed the following nice point to me, saying: —“You take Infidel girls as women, because you say that the man plants the seed, and that

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Bad and reprehensible things in Irán.

Bad and reprehensible things in Irán.

It is a bad custom in Persia that only twelve classes of the troops and as many of the Ulemás and the other ranks of society are allowed to have regular kitchens in their houses; all the rest eat from the market, therefore, although their dinner is cheap it is very bad. The army has its cooks, who cook in that way at a fixed price, so that they are not allowed to take a grain more or to furnish a grain less than the established quantity. When the army takes the field, the kitchen is established

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Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz.

Pilgrimages and Visits in the town of Tabríz.

In the cemeteries are many places of pilgrimage of great and holy men. In the cemetery of Súrkháb are the tombs of poets, such as Enwerí, Khakání, Zahír-ud-dín Faryábí, Felekí of Shíráz, and Felekí of Shirván. Of Saints buried in the neighbouring villages, there are, in the village of Gúchúchán the Saint Khoja Mohammed Gúchúchání; in the village of Sabádabád, no less than seven hundred learned writers. Essáma Ben Sherík, the Prophet’s companion is buried near Tabríz on the martyrs’ mount; and Sá

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Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám Gházán.

Description of the Expedition we undertook with the Khán to Shám Gházán.

We left Tabríz accompanied by one thousand horse, and after a march of five hours through flowery gardens came to Kent Ajisú, half way to Kúmla, two hundred houses with gardens belonging to the Khán’s khass, a mosque and three convents. The waters of this plain are subterraneous, flowing from village to village, and there are some thousand wells on the great roads, this place is called A’jisú (bitter water) because its water is a little brackish. We continued our road next day to the burying-pla

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Description of Merágha.

Description of Merágha.

It is the seat of a Sultán commanding a thousand troops, and has a Judge, Kelenter, Darogha and Múnshi; it was built in the earliest time by Húshenk-sháh, and is the first town of Azerbeiján and its ancient capital, surrounded with fruitful gardens, eleven farsangs distant from Tabríz; eleven mosques, forty kháns, sixty mesjíds, forty convents of Dervishes, eleven baths and three thousand shops. The inhabitants are all weavers, who manufacture excellent Bogassin. The beautiful youth of both sexe

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Description of Aján.

Description of Aján.

On the east side of mount Aján a large town was built by Peshen the son of Keiúmerth, and, being ransacked by Húlagú, fell into decay, so that all its inhabitants were transferred to Tabríz; it was rebuilt by Gházán, who also built a castle of two thousand paces in circumference on the edge of the mountain, with an iron gate opening to the east; within it are one hundred houses, but no garrison, outside there are three thousand houses, seven mosques, three baths, seven kháns, and six hundred sho

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Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl.

Places of Pilgrimage at Erdebíl.

The first of all is the tomb of Sheikh Safí, the son of Sheikh Khoja Alí, the son of Sheikh Sadr-ud-dín Mússa, the son of Sheikh Safr-ud-dín Abú Ishák of Erdebíl, the founder of the dynasty of the Safís. His tomb-keepers are some hundred dervishes, a large foundation. Sheikh Safí governed only in a spiritual sense; his son Hyder was his successor, and Ibrahím the son of Hyder having dreamt of concubinage with an ass, his possession of the Empire was foretold by his grandsire Sheikh Safí; indeed

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Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí.

Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Shems Tabrízí.

He died in the year 495 on his way from Antiochia to Isfahán, in this town of Khúí. After a stay of two days, we continued our journey with two hundred armed guards to the north, and arrived at the end of nine hours at the town of Behestán, the seat of a Kelenter. It was anciently a town of the size of Tabríz but was ruined by Húlagú; it is now a small place of a thousand houses, three mosques, a khán, bath and small market, with innumerable gardens. Three hours further northward, we reached the

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Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván).

Description of the Town of Eriván (Reván).

In the year 810 (1407) Khoja Khán Lejchání, a rich merchant of Timúr’s suite settled here with all his family and servants, cultivating plantations of rice, by which means a great Kent was soon formed. Five years later Sháh Ismail gave to Reván Kúl, one of his Kháns, an order to build a castle here, which being finished in seven years, was named after him, Reván or Eriván. It is situated on the eastern bank of the Zenghí river, and is of brick and stone. In the year 995 (1586) Súleimán Khán, hav

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Description of the important town of Genje.

Description of the important town of Genje.

It was wrested from the hands of Sháh Tahmás, in the year 1014 (1065), by Kojá Ferhád Páshá. At the time when Mohammed Páshá the Kiaya of Sárí Ahmed Páshá, was governor of Genje, the Sháh besieged it for seven months, and killed the whole garrison. Since that time it remained in the possession of the Persians, a large town, but the Sháh destroyed its castle; it is now an elegant town of six thousand houses with gardens and vineyards, a khán, a bath, and imáret, situated in a large plain. Its gar

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Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs.

Pilgrimages (or Tombs) of Martyrs.

Twelve thousand Moslims, who had surrendered the castle by capitulation to the Sháh, were unmercifully killed, and are now buried outside the town in a place called Shohedaí Ervám (martyrs of Rúm). We remained three days as guests in the khán of the town, and continued our journey with about fifty companions to the north; on our right was the Khánlik of Loristán. After seven hours march we arrived at Gilkzár Ahmedí, formerly a town, but now a kent of seven hundred houses, the khass of the Khán o

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Description of the Castle of Shekí.

Description of the Castle of Shekí.

It was built by Alexander a Prince of the Shúshads, from whose hands it passed into those of the Prince of Dághistán, and then into those of the Persians. Lala Kara Mustafa Páshá, the Vezír of Murad III. conquered it, and it was conferred on Erkelád Beg, the son of Levend Khán. In the beginning of the reign of Sultán Mustafa it returned into the possession of the Persians, and is now the seat of a Sultán, who commands one thousand men. It is a nice castle built on a rock, its circuit three thous

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Account of the Tribe of Ettels.

Account of the Tribe of Ettels.

Ettel signifies in the Mogolic language, tongue of dogs; they take this name from their war-cry, which is a kind of howling. Near Márdín, in the sanjak of the mountains, which I entered with Melek Ahmed Páshá, the Ettels are a tribe like that of the hairy Kurds, impure, impious, irreligious robbers, who pretend to be of Hamza’s sect, keep neither prayer-hours nor fasts, are ignorant of moral duties and of God. Seven or eight of them share a woman amongst them; if she gets with child, her seven o

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Pilgrimage of Ashár-Baba.

Pilgrimage of Ashár-Baba.

Ashár-Baba was one of the disciples of our great ancestor the Turk of Turks, Khoja Ahmed Yessúí; as the rites of Yessúí are liked in Persia the convent at this place is inhabited by more than a hundred Dervishes. It is a general pilgrimage, the inhabitants profess to be of the sect of Hanefí. We here took some companions and advanced to the north to the kent Ferrakhzád on the frontier of Shamákhi, and on the bank of the white river (Aksú) with five hundred houses, a mosque, a khán, a bath and a

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Praise of Mount Caucasus.

Praise of Mount Caucasus.

The rivers which come from Mount Caucasus, on the south, flow into the Kúr, and those towards the north, straight into the Caspian Sea. Again there are rivers on the south side, which fall into the Black Sea, and on the north side into the Kúbán. Mount Caucasus is the greatest mountain in the world, its tracts are ruled by five different monarchs, and to the south the Abáza tribes are settled to the extent of eighty journies. On the east side on the border of the mountain are the Mingrelians, Ge

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Description of the Town of Shamákhí.

Description of the Town of Shamákhí.

It was first built by Yezdejerd Sháh the Persian Monarch; it is the centre of seven Khánliks, some spell it Shám Akhí (the brother of Damascus), and some Shám Ahí (the sigh of Damascus), because its first inhabitants were a colony from Damascus; forty Sultáns and forty judges are attached to it, seventy castles and thirteen hundred kents like large towns: Ulama Páshá and Pírí Páshá, two Vezírs of Sultán Súleimán took possession of it in their Emperor’s name, and Ulama Páshá was named governor of

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Description of the fortress of Bakú.

Description of the fortress of Bakú.

After a grand repast we delivered the letter of Defterdár-zádeh Mohammed Páshá the governor of Erzerúm, our gracious Lord, with the presents consisting of beads of pearls, Irák stuffs, and a fine sword. I also delivered the letters of the Kháns of Tabríz and Nakhshiván, complimenting him on the feast of his wedding; the Khán entertained me as a guest in his sister’s palace, the festival lasted ten days and nights, during which he praised the presents he had received through me, in the presence o

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Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia.

Description of our journey from Bakú through Georgia.

We passed to the south over a dreary tract along the sea, where we saw mines of Naphtha in seven places; it boils up from the earth on the seashore, and in the district of Musekker in hot springs, on the surface of which it collects. It is a Royal lease, let for seven thousand tománs of aspers per year. The men belonging to the inspector of the Naphtha collect it from the surface of the springs and small lakes, fill jacks of goatskin with it and sell it to the merchants; the yellow is the most e

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Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant.

Description of a Whale with ears like an Elephant.

A whale had been driven on shore, one hundred yards long, with two heads, one at the tail end, the other of the size of a cupola. In the upper jaw it had one hundred and fifty teeth, each a yard long, ears like an elephant, and eyes of the size of a round table, and covered with beaver’s hair. The inhabitants of Bakú, Derbend and Shamákhí flocked together to see it. Khoja Sarúkhán, a voyager in the Caspian Sea, told me that this kind of whale was common in that sea; there are certainly many stra

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Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates.

Description of Derbend the Gate of Gates.

It is generally known that Alexander having designed to build the dike of Gog and Magog, when he arrived at this place, thought of executing a project for uniting the Caspian with the Black Sea, by means of a canal which was to join the Caspian Sea with the Phasus; but being advised by his Vezírs of the danger of this union, as the Black Sea was a great deal lower than the Caspian, he left it unexecuted, and built three immense walls with three ditches as a stronghold between the Black and Caspi

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Size and figure of the Castle.

Size and figure of the Castle.

Yezíb Ben Abd-ul-Melek, the son of Atika, the daughter of Moavia, took this place from the Khavarej, and the whole district of Dághistán was then ennobled with the glory of Islám. In the year 986 (1578) Uzdemir-oghlí the Vezír of Sultán Murad III. appearing with a great army before its walls, the Sunnís who were inside bound Jírágh Khalífeh, the Sháh’s commander, cut off his head, and surrendered the fortress to the Ottoman general, who was appointed by the Porte, Governor General of Shirván. He

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Description of the Iron Gate.

Description of the Iron Gate.

Alexander closed this passage with an iron gate, which remained up to the time of Núshirván by whom it was renewed. Jezdejerd Sháh, Ismail Sháh and Uzdemír Páshá repaired the castle situated at the foot of mount Arghan and Deneb. The foundations of the western walls are washed by the Caspian Sea. The walls were built by Herzsháh, as is recorded by the Persian chronostick on the gate of the harbour. The remains of the wall of Alexander also, which was a broad thick wall, are still to be seen proj

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Buildings within the Castle.

Buildings within the Castle.

The stones of the wall are each of the size of an elephant, but cut square, and are so large that fifty men at the present day, could not lift one of them. In the castle are two hundred well terraced houses; close to the southern wall is a large palace, the architectural ornaments of which are not to be found in any other palace in Persia; near to it is a great mosque with a ruined minareh, and a bath built in the Ottoman style, and a fountain. Near the gate of boats opening to the east, is the

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Pilgrimages.

Pilgrimages.

Yezíd Ben Abd-ul-Melek, son of Atika the daughter of Moavia, came from Damascus with a great army to make war against the heretic rebels (Khavarej); seven hundred moslim martyrs, who were killed on that occasion, are buried outside the western wall at a mile’s distance. Another army came in the time of Heshám Ben Abd-ul-Melek, which conquered the provinces of Dághistán, Kúmúk, Thábserán, Kaiták, and Derbend. The martyrs who fell on this occasion were also buried in this cemetery; their names are

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The Pilgrimage of the Forty.

The Pilgrimage of the Forty.

There are forty tombs much frequented by visitors. The tomb of Derekhorkhot, a great Saint, in whom the people of Shirván had great faith. Several thousand great Saints are buried here, but I visited and made myself acquainted with those only that I have mentioned. God’s mercy upon them all! After having seen all the curiosities of this town I received from the Khán a horse of the race (Kádhibeg,) and a trotting horse (Chapár), ten pieces of cotton stuff of Guzerát, and two hundred guards to acc

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Description of the Castle Serír-ul-allán.

Description of the Castle Serír-ul-allán.

This ancient town was built by Hormúz the son of Núshirván; it was wrested from the hands of the Princes of Dághistán by the Persian Sháh Kor Khodabende, and fell into those of the Ottomans, who destroyed the castle that it might not be used as a defence against them; it is now a large ancient town situated on the border of Mount Caucasus, belonging to the government of Aresh. According to fabulous history it was in this town that Solomon set up his throne, which had been carried through the air

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Tomb of Emír Sultán.

Tomb of Emír Sultán.

He was a great Saint. The Divines of this country, all learned Doctors, have no enmity amongst themselves, but they shun all communication with the Reváfes (heretic Persians). Here ends Dághistán, and the province of Georgia begins. The frontier castle Ur belongs to the Persians; we passed it on our left, and skirted the boundaries of the castle of Shekí, which I formerly saw on my way to Shamákhí, and arrived at the kent of Zakhorie on the frontier of Tamarass-khán, belonging to the Khán of Tif

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Description of the Old Town of Kákht.

Description of the Old Town of Kákht.

This town is situated on the frontier of Georgia and now governed by the Persians. It was built by Núshirván to keep the tribes of the Caucasus in order. It is a pentagon castle, fourteen thousand large paces in circumference, with one hundred and seventy bulwarks, three gates, two thousand houses within the castle, a mosque, a bath, and a khán. Its waters, so many springs of life, issue from the west side of Mount Caucasus, and after irrigating the gardens fall into the Kúr to the eastward. The

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Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz. Betlís.

Description of Georgia or Shúshádistán, viz. Betlís.

According to the author of the Sheref-námeh, this town was first built by Betlís the Treasurer of Alexander, who also built the castle of the same name in the province of Ván; its name is now Tiflís, which for a long time was a great Persian government, till in the time of Sultán Murad III. Lala Kara Ferhád Páshá with an immense army undertook the conquest of Georgia, and conquered Chaldír and seventy castles. Daúd Khán, who was then governor of Tiflís, garrisoned it with forty thousand men, and

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Size and Figure of the Fortress.

Size and Figure of the Fortress.

It consists of two castles opposite to each other on the banks of the Kúr which separates the rocks on which they stand, and which are connected above by a bridge leading from one castle to the other. The great castle is on the south side of the Kúr and the small one on the north of it. This river rises in the mountains of Chaldir, passes Erdehán, Akhiska, and Azgúra and flows into the Caspian Sea; the Persian historiographers say, that its waters are supplied from a thousand and sixty sources;

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Products.

Products.

The white bread of Tiflís, and the peaches are renowned; the vegetables exquisite; there is no silk, but most excellent grapes: all these productions prosper through the quantity of rain water which falls, and do not require water from the Kúr, this is the case with an hundred and fifty towns and villages, which it passes on its way....

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The Hotbath of Tiflís.

The Hotbath of Tiflís.

On the east side of the large castle a hot-spring boils out of the ground without the assistance of fire; sheep’s heads and feet are cooked therein. There are also several pilgrimages at Tiflís, as those of Imám Hossein Efendí, Rizwán Agha, Jem Alí Efendí, &amp;c. Tiflís is five hours distance from Kiákht, from the Castle of Aras, four journies, and the same from that of Genje. We took from the khán two hundred men to accompany us, and received three tománs for the expenses of the journey...

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Description of the Castle Kúsekht.

Description of the Castle Kúsekht.

It stands on a chalk cliff, is of a square form, and belongs to the district of Tiflís. The castle Lorí near Tiflís was seen on our right side in the mountains, but we passed it at a great distance....

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Description of Súrán.

Description of Súrán.

Though a small castle on a hill, yet it is extremely strong and high: it is one of the oldest castles of Georgia built by Núshirván. Its inhabitants are Georgians, Gokdúlák and Armenians. We proceeded four hours to the west, and reached the old town Azgúr: according to the author of the Sheref-námeh, it is the oldest town in Georgia, and was built by Alexander. In the Georgian language Azgúr signifies the King of Kings. The immense blocks of stone used in the formation of the walls, show that it

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Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language.

Specimen of the Georgian Shúshád Language.

One, árí ; two, úrí ; three, sám ; four, otkhí ; five, khotí ; six, egsí ; seven, shudi ; eight, revaí ; nine, khújraí ; ten, atí ; bread, púrí ; water, chígál ; meat, kharj ; wine, ghita ; cherries, bák ; pears, bishál ; figs, lefi ; grapes, kúrzení ; hazel-nuts, inikhlí ; melon, nesú ; &amp;c....

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Genealogy of the Georgian Kings.

Genealogy of the Georgian Kings.

Their first kings were Jews, then Dadiáns and Shúshád, from whom originated the people of Gúriel, Achikbásh, and Mingrelia, who are all Christians. They speak twelve different languages, and only understand each other by the aid of interpreters. The purest language, according to their opinion, is that of the Shúshád and Dadián. If the dynasty of the Moscovites should be extinguished, the Princes of Georgia would succeed. The Aiza and Cherkessians who are an Arabic colony, have no books at all; a

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Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultan Selím’s conquest.

Description of the Stronghold of Akhaska, Sultan Selím’s conquest.

This strong fortress of Akhaska is also spelled Akhachka, Akhjaska, Okhaskha, and Oksakha, according to the difference of the languages of the surrounding people. In the Imperial register it is laid down by the name of Chaldir. The builder was Núshirván, the great Persian monarch who built the Ták Kesra. He used to spend six months of the summer here, on account of its climate. It would be too long to relate all the changes that this place underwent under different kings. The first moslim conque

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Khass or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs.

Khass or Revenues of the Sanjak Begs.

Khass of the Beg of Oltí, two hundred thousand and seventeen aspers; Portek, forty-six thousand two hundred and nineteen; Ardenj, two hundred and eighty thousand; Erdehán, three hundred thousand; Shúshád, six hundred and fifty six thousand; Lesána, three hundred and sixty-five thousand; Khartíz, two hundred thousand five hundred; Khajrek, three hundred and sixty-five thousand; Postkhú, two hundred and six thousand five hundred; Makhjíl, twenty thousand three hundred and eleven; Ajára, two hundre

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Number of Ziámets and Timárs.

Number of Ziámets and Timárs.

The ziámets and timárs are altogether six hundred and fifty-six swords, which with the Jebellis form eight hundred men; and with the troops of the Páshá fifteen hundred troops. In the sanjak Oltí, three ziámets, a hundred and thirteen timárs; Erdehán, eight ziámets, eighty-seven timárs; Ardíkh, four ziámets, forty-two timárs; Khajrek, two ziamets, seventy-two timárs; Khartíz, thirteen ziámets, thirty-five timárs; Postkhú, twelve ziámets, twenty-eight timárs; Penek, eight ziámets, fifty-four timá

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Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka.

Form and size of the Castle of Akhachka.

It is a square castle built of stone, standing on a chalk cliff, with two gates and about a thousand houses without gardens covered with terraces. One of the two gates leads to the east, and the other to the west, there are twenty-eight mosques. The old mosque in the upper castle is covered with earth. There is no Imáret (religious foundation) covered with lead in this fortress. The mosque of Kunbet-oghlí is also covered with earth, and without a minareh. In the lower castle is the mosque of Kha

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Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir.

Castles of Georgia belonging to the Province of Chaldir.

The castle of Khartíz near Chaldir was conquered in the year 886 (1481), by Lala Páshá, together with the castle of Adhil, and the castle of Perkán near Chaldir at a journey’s distance, situated between two high mountains on a high hill. The castle of Cotatis is two journies distance from Chaldir, it is the capital of the district of Ajikbásh near mount Perírat. It is the proper residence of Georgia otherwise called Shúshád, and Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, sometimes came hither to dive

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Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm.

Stations of the Journey from Akhaska to Erzerúm.

We passed the summer quarters of Ulghár, and arrived at the end of four hours at the castle of Kínava on the frontier of Ardehán; we passed through a mountainous tract and at last arrived at the Castle of Kara Ardehán, which was conquered in the time of Selím I. and made the seat of a Sanjak Beg; the khass is three hundred thousand aspers, eight ziámets, and eighty-seven timárs; an Alaï Beg, (Colonel); Cheribashí, (Captain); Dizdár, (Commander of the castle); are the commanding officers of the g

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Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán.

Castles in the neighbourhood of Erdehán.

The castle of Wálá, conquered by Lala Páshá 987 (1579); the castle of Kermek, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castle of Akhársin, conquered by Lala Páshá in the year 982 (1574); the castles of Mamerván and Nazarbán, the latter built by Ghází Sefer Páshá in the year 1053 (1643); the castle Kense Dusál in the district of Erdehán on a hill; its water flows to Erdehán. The houses all have terraces; there is no college, but a school for boys. No gardens on account of the temperatu

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Size of the castle of Karss.

Size of the castle of Karss.

At a gun-shot distance on the north side is a high mountain, at the foot of which this fortress rises on a separate hill; the lower castle is situated in the plain, and has five strong walls. The gate of the outer or lower castle looks to the east, and that of the inner or upper castle to the west. There is only the house of the commander, and barracks for the garrison of two hundred men; no bath, market, or any remarkable building. The lower town or suburb is surrounded by two strong walls, and

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Journeys on our Return.

Journeys on our Return.

We set out from Eriván, with a caraván of seven hundred persons toward the west, and reached after five hours the kent Abdallí, a Persian village of a hundred houses, which at the time of the conquest was fixed to be the frontier of Karss. We advanced to the north four hours to kent Ayárán with five hundred houses; the inhabitants of which are Gokdúlak; from hence through mountains of luxuriant vegetation to kent Sheráb-kháneh, situated on a hill, of three hundred Armenian houses with many garde

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Form and size of the Castle.

Form and size of the Castle.

It is a pentagon, and stands on a high hill, the height of the wall is forty royal cubits, it has no ditch, on account of its position; there are three hundred old houses, but no market, khán, or bath; two gates, one to the east, opening towards the gardens, and one to the west, by which you descend to the lower town, consisting of more than a thousand houses with terraces; there are nineteen quarters of Moslims, and nine of Armenians; no Jews nor gipsies, but a great number of Greeks, because i

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Description of the River Jorúgh.

Description of the River Jorúgh.

It rises in the mountains of Erzerúm, supplies water to a great number of fields, and flows straight to the lower town of Baibúrd; the two banks are adorned with many elegant palaces and koshks and gardens, where the inhabitants delight to fish; its name is corrupted from Júírúh (river of spirit) a name it well deserves by its most excellent qualities. The inhabitants of the town cut their wood on the mountain, and putting on it a private mark throw it into the river, which it floats down until

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Pilgrimages.

Pilgrimages.

The mountain facing the mosque in the quarter on the opposite bank of the Jorúgh, is called the parrot’s mountain, it is the burying-place of Abd-ul wahháb A’ari, and is a general walk. This high mountain commands the town, but cannon shot cannot reach it from hence, the distance being too great, and the river Jorúgh flowing between. The hill which rises in the town, opposite the mosque, is ascended in half an hour. The Pilgrimage of Osmán Ghází, who is here buried underneath a cupola of bricks.

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Description of the Castle of Tortúm.

Description of the Castle of Tortúm.

It was built by the old King of Georgia Mamerúl, was conquered by Uzún Hassan, and by Mohammed II., and then fell again into the hands of the Georgians. Selím I. first retook it when Governor of Trebisonde, and Sultán Súleimán lost it again. He despatched his second Vezír Ahmed Páshá to reconquer it, who took it after a siege of seven days and an assault of seven hours, cutting all the Infidels to pieces; and providing it with stores and men. He then advanced further into Georgia, and the two ca

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Size and Shape of the Castle.

Size and Shape of the Castle.

It is built in a square form, on a high rock; an iron gate opens to the east; in the castle is a mosque of Sultán Súleimán’s time, and in the lower town is seven hundred houses and seven mosques, two baths, two kháns, twelve schools and seventy shops, but no stone bezestán, imáret or medresseh. The pears, grapes and peaches are much praised; as it is only two journeys from Erzerúm, the merchants send chests full of fruit to that place; the inhabitants are righteous, hospitable men; the river whi

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Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia.

Account of our Inroad into Mingrelia.

Ketgáj Páshá led the van of three hundred men, towards the Kiblah, followed by three thousand men of Georgia and Akhaska, and by Sídí Ahmed Páshá, at the head of nine thousand men. Bákí Páshá commanded the rear of three hundred men; the troops of Erzerúm and Kara Hissár formed the two wings; the sanjak Begs of Khinissin, Tekmán and Melázjerd were deputed to provide the forage. We marched this day ten hours to Zárchairí, a pleasant position between Mingrelia, and the sanjak of Batúm. The next day

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Of the Language of the Mingrelians.

Of the Language of the Mingrelians.

Georgia is inhabited by seventeen Christian tribes, the principal of which are, the Achikbásh, Dadián, Shúshád, and Gúriel. The Mingrelians are the last and most despised specimen of their language: one, artí ; two, sherí ; three, shumí ; four, ámekh ; five, khotí ; six, pishkúí ; seven, ishkúí ; eight, rúo ; nine, júghúr ; ten, wetí . Bread, gúpál ; fire, dájkhir ; shield, púr ; sheep, ashkhorí ; girdle, derkát ; head, dúdí ; wood, deshke ; dog, joghúr ; ox, khijú ; calf, kissin ; salt, ajém ;

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Moral Reflections.

Moral Reflections.

The end of all joy is disappointment, and the end of every day is bitter. There is no doubt about this. So at the end of this 1075th year we received the news by a swift messenger despatched from Constantinople, that Sultán Ibrahím had killed without reason the Grand Vezír Sáleh Páshá, and had appointed in his place Tezkereji Ahmed Páshá. Though this news greatly afflicted the Páshá yet he kept it secret not to spoil the pleasure of the company, and transacted the rest of his business at Erzerúm

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Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 (1647).

Account of our return from Erzerúm to Constantinople in the month of Zílka’deh 1057 (1647).

We left the town by the gate of Erzenján and halted first in the plain called the circles of Bazár-bashí, where farewell presents were lavished on us by all the Aghás and principal men of Erzerúm, who both by day and night formed their court around the tent of the Páshá. The Kiaya of Sáleh Páshá, the governor of Baghdád, accompanied by an hundred and fifty Aghás, an hundred and seventy Kapijí-bashí, seven hundred men, Sárija, and three hundred Segbán, arrived here with the news of Sáleh Páshá ha

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Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh.

Our journey to the Castle of Kumákh.

The Castle of Kumákh was built by the Greek Emperors and then came into the hands of the Akche-koyúnlí. When in the possession of Uzún Hassan, the king of Azerbeiján, it was besieged by Timúr for seven months, during which the besieged disdained to fire a single shot or throw a single stone on the besiegers. After the defeat of Uzún Hassan it was also besieged by Mohammed III., during three months without success. Selím I. when governor of Trebisonde, availed himself of a good opportunity and co

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Description of the Castle of Kumákh.

Description of the Castle of Kumákh.

This castle is a pentagon of stone situate on a chalk cliff; it may be compared to the castle of Sín-hissár on the frontiers of Erzerúm. On the opposite side of the Euphrates is a height by which it is commanded, but the distance is too great to make it of consequence. It has three strong gates one behind the other; on the right and left of the first gate are two brass guns, well worthy to be seen, of such dimensions that a cobbler might very well work in them without complaining of the narrowne

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Description of the Castle of Erzenján.

Description of the Castle of Erzenján.

This castle belongs to Erzerúm and not to Azerbeiján. There are four towns, which bear the name of Erzen, viz: Erzen in Mesopotamia (Jezíre), Erzen Akhlát, Erzenrúm commonly called Erzerúm, and Erzenján. It is a delightful spot, the possession of which occasioned many wars, till in the year 855 Sultán Bayazíd I. received it from its prince, Záhir-ud-dín, who, the very same day he heard of the conquest of Amasia, repaired to this town and delivered to Sultán Bayazíd the keys. Bayazíd out of gener

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Praise of the Eatables and Beverages.

Praise of the Eatables and Beverages.

Seventy sorts of pears are produced here; and though the season of winter was far advanced at the time of our stay here, yet we now saw seventeen various sorts of pears offered as presents to the Páshá, with raisins and apricots; its mulberries both white and black are much renowned and when dried are exported to all countries. The sherbet of mulberries seasoned with different spices gives new life to the soul. Erzerúm is provided with fruits from this town, from whence they are transported in t

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Pilgrimages.

Pilgrimages.

The convent of Khizr, a convent of Mevlevís; the convent of Sheikk Khaled Efendí; and the tomb of Himmet Páshá, one of the vezirs of Sultán Selím, who was killed on his way to Chaldirán. I remained here for three days to collect the sums due from the Inspectors of salt and the Súbáshí of Kúrúchaí. Whilst the inhabitants were giving feasts to the Páshá news arrived of the rebellion of Várvár Páshá, with a letter to the following intent: “My son! Hezárpara Ahmed Páshá the Vezír of Ibrahím has kill

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Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár.

Description of the strong Castle of Shín or Shábín Kara-hissár.

There are in the Ottoman Empire various castles, which bear the name of Kara-hissár, the most renowned of which is that before us. The others are Kara-hissár called Afiún (Apamea), Develí Kora-hissár, Adalia Kara-hissárí, and Ván Kara-hissárí. The two first are superior to the others. Shábín Kara-hissár is so called because a mine of alum (Sháb) was found in its mountains; the stones of the castle being black, it is also called Shabín from Shab (night, dark coloured). It was built by the Armenia

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Description of a Lion.

Description of a Lion.

Upon the gate leading to the outer town a lion, stuffed with cotton, is to be seen, it has oranges in the place of eyes, yawning like a seven-headed dragon, with a piece of red felt instead of a tongue, and teeth as sharp as Turcoman daggers or Arab lances. It measures from its nose to its tail forty-five spans. This mountain lion continued his havoc on the cattle of the neighbouring country for seven years, when it was killed by a brave man, and placed by the order of Ahmed Tapán upon the gate

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Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum.

Praise of the Alum, called Solomon’s Alum.

This is a reddish alum produced in the mountains of this town, which is therefore called Shábín Kara-hissár; it is much sought after by the goldsmiths of all countries. The Inspectorship is let at seven hundred thousand aspers a year. It breaks up into pentagon and sexagon stones shaped like the seal of Solomon; the goldsmiths use it to brighten the silver, and the surgeons for plasters. It has many excellent qualities. The temperature of this town being mild the inhabitants are fair. Its quince

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Description of the Castle of Ládík.

Description of the Castle of Ládík.

This castle was built by one Havík one of the Greek Princes of Amasia. Melek Ghází of the Dánishmend family, who came from Mahán with the Seljúk family, conquered both Ník-hissár and Ládík in the same year. There are three Ládíks in the Ottoman Empire, viz: that of Konia now quite ruined by rebellions, that of Korládík in the province of Ván and the third, Ládík of Amasia. After the conquest of the town by Bayazíd I., Ládík surrendered its keys to Timúr-tásh Páshá, who accepted them with the goo

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The Walks of Ládík.

The Walks of Ládík.

The head fountain of the water Bállí-kiasú, which flows through the town, is a pleasant walk on the Kiblah side. Another famous walk on the east side is called Frenk-gozí, the Frank’s eye; Hossein Páshá built a koshk by the splendid spring which arises here; the water is so cold that people cannot take out of it three stones consecutively. The rivulets formed by those two sources of Bállí and Frenk-gozí flow through the town supplying water to the palaces, kháns, mosques, gardens, and mills, and

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The warm laths of Ládík.

The warm laths of Ládík.

A hot spring is situated one hour and a half on the west of Ládík on a high hill in a village, called Khalliz, below which it flows as a small rivulet, turns some mills, and falls into the Kizil Irmák; being situated behind the mountains of Ládík it cannot fall into the lake. The warm bath of Khalliz is much renowned. In the cherry season this place is visited by thousands of people, who here renovate their health by God’s command. An outlet from this hot bath flows into the river Khalliz which

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Description of the Lake of Ládík.

Description of the Lake of Ládík.

This is a large lake to the east of Ládík, which would take a day to go round; eleven different sorts of fish are found in it, the description of which would be too long to give. Twenty-six springs and rivulets flow into this lake on its four sides, from the districts of Zedaí, Súnssa, Kaúza and Zeitúm; it has no outlet. On its border is Bogházi-koí, a pleasant village, and the village of Otúz, renowned for its kaimak (cream), which is no where better; it can be cut like cheese and is elastic as

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Pilgrimages of Ládík.

Pilgrimages of Ládík.

Sheikh Seid Ahmed Kebír, buried in his own convent, was the disciple of Sheikh Ekber who is also buried here in the old mosque, built by himself in the year 952 (1545); he was one of the Sheiks of Sultán Orkhán. Beneath the castle Sheikh Ya Wúdúd is buried, and Báli-dedeh at the meeting place of the caravan of Mecca. Ghází Tayár Mustafa Páshá is also buried here beneath a lead covered cupola. I remained at this place three days with my gracious Lord, the Páshá, to whom great feasts were given, a

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Description of Merzifún.

Description of Merzifún.

It was built by the Dánishmend family and conquered by Bayazíd I. It is now a castle in good condition and useful against rebels, in the sanjak of Amasia, belonging to Sivás, and is guarded by watchmen. The town is a wakf of Saint Pírdedeh and is commanded by the Kizlar Aghá. The judge, appointed with three hundred aspers, may annually collect from the different districts six purses. As it is an inland castle it has neither commander nor garrison. Its public officers are a Muftí, Nakíb, Serdár,

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Description of the Baths.

Description of the Baths.

The old bath, divided for men and women, was built by Mohammed I., and has more than seventy troughs or basins. Round it dwell the felt and safian makers, who tan blue, yellow and red safian. The walls of the bath are all lined with chalk mixed with musk and amber, the odour of which pervades the whole building and renders it so dry that neither on the walls nor on the windows does a drop of moisture collect. Being an old building, however, it is not light, but rather dark. The water is very war

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Praise of Pírdedeh.

Praise of Pírdedeh.

When Murad II., the father of Mohammed II., was building a mosque and college here, the enemies of Pírdedeh calumniated him by saying, that he accompanied the women into the bath and foretold to them hidden things, which are forbidden in the Korán, such as whether they would lie in with a boy or girl. Murad II., angry at such scandalous behaviour, took his sword with the intention of performing a meritorious action by killing the accused. When he came to the bath and saw Pírdedeh walking about w

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Products.

Products.

Must, pure as that of Aintáb, sweet raisins, and the white bread of Pírdedeh; six hundred shops almost all occupied by dyers, who dye a peculiar blue even finer than the Persians. Its cotton stuffs are exported in great quantities to Crimea and exchanged for prisoners; the ferrájes and dresses of the inhabitants of Crimea are made of the stuffs of Merzifún. Its spun cotton, shirts, blankets, cushions and other printed articles are also in good estimation....

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Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún.

Pilgrimage to the Saints of Merzifún.

The first of all the Saints of this place is Sheikh Pírdedeh, who came with Hají Begtásh from Khorassán by permission of Koja Yessúí. He dwelled outside of Merzifún to the north on a hill, and spent his days in the baths as a Santon from the time of Orkhán to that of Mohammed II. His convent which is a larger building than even that of Koyún-bábá at Osmánjik, is provided with a kitchen and cellar (Kílár) and affords every night lodgings and food to two or three hundred travellers; two hundred de

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Journey from Merzifún to Koprí.

Journey from Merzifún to Koprí.

We set out on the 10th Moharrem in a northerly direction along Mount Deshán, passed the village of Begorán and in six hours reached Koja Kala’a a small castle on a rock accessible but by one road and one gate. It was besieged at different times by the rebels Karayázijí, Saíd Arab and Kalender, but never was taken by them. It was however conquered by Bayazíd I., from the Dánishmend family and belongs now to the district of Koprí; the garrison consists of an hundred men, and it has a mosque, ciste

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Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí.

Description of the old town and great bridge of Koprí.

We dismounted at the house of Yússúf Aghá, where we stopped as guests, and delivered our letters to Koprilí Mohammed Páshá and the other principal men, we then collected the Búlúk-bashís and ordered cryers to proclaim that all those who wished to have goods and slaves, and possessed breeches and a horse, were to come to us. After this we went to view the town. Koprí is a fortress in good condition on the border of Mount Deshán, in a tract intersected by hills and valleys at a place watered by tw

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Description of the town of Gumish.

Description of the town of Gumish.

It was built by the Byzantine Emperors and was conquered by Melek Ghází of the Dánishmend family. When Bayazíd I. marched to the conquest of Amasia the inhabitants of Gumish met him, and presented him with some silver vases and the keys of the castle. The inhabitants are therefore free of all duties, but it is incumbent upon them to work the silver mines. The inspectorship is held by lease, and furnishes annually to the Porte seventy quintals of pure silver, and one thousand pair of horse-cloths

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Praise of Sheikh Bárdáklí-bábá.

Praise of Sheikh Bárdáklí-bábá.

Near the above mentioned place is the pilgrimage of a Saint called Bárdáklí-bábá, a disciple of Sheikh Hájí Bairám. He obtained his living by making cans, which afforded a continual supply of water for the ablutions of his disciples. His can is suspended from his tomb and therefore he is called Bárdáklí-bábá, the father of cans or tankards. With the leave of the tomb-keeper, I took down the suspended can to perform my ablutions and found it full of clear water, though covered with the dust of fo

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Form of the Castle.

Form of the Castle.

It is situated on a high reddish cliff, towering into the clouds, as though built by Ferhád. The walls are sixty royal cubits high, as it is an isolated rock there are no ditches. An iron-gate opens to the kiblah side and within the castle are about twenty houses, a mosque, a magazine of corn, a cistern, and six small guns. The inhabitants of the neighbouring tracts deposit in this castle their effects and precious things from fear of rebels and robbers, and the commander is the keeper of these

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The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán.

The Pilgrimages of Karánjí-bábá Sultán.

There is but one steep path from the castle, at the bottom of which near the market is the tomb of this saint in a narrow place. On leaving it we marched five hours to the North to the village of Kúrbághlí, in the territory of Kánghrí and the district of Kala’ajik, of two hundred houses with mosques and gardens, where Sheikh Abd-allah, the son of Sheikh Shámí, is buried; his tomb is covered with a simple roof, and is without a convent. Five hours further to the North we came to the village of Ne

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Description of Angora.

Description of Angora.

On the day that our quartermasters entered the town with the tails it was declared to them in the court of justice, that the Páshá would not be allowed to enter the fortress on account of his intentions being known to be those of a rebel, but that in consequence of the great number of friends and clients in the town, he would be well treated and lodged there for three days. We entered with a great Istikbál (procession of meeting) and were saluted by the firing of twenty guns. I was lodged in the

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Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint.

Praises of Hájí Bairám the Saint.

In his youth he was once invited by a cunning woman, who in order to seduce the Saint, with whom she was in love, began to praise his hair, beard, brows and eye-lashes. The Saint retired into a corner and prayed to God that he might be delivered of these four inducements to lust, and become of an ugly form; he then returned without a hair into the woman’s presence, who shocked at his ugliness had him turned out of doors by her maidens. Hence the descendants of the Saint by his daughter actually

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The Eatables and Products.

The Eatables and Products.

The calves’ and sheep’s feet of Angora are the counter part of those of Kútahia; the salted flesh (Pássdirma) of its goats has an excellent perfume. These goats called Teftekgechí are of a brilliant whiteness; of the hair is made the soft (Shalloon) of different, colours which is worn by Monarchs. If the wool is cut by scissors it becomes coarse, but if pulled out it is as soft and as fine as the silk of Eyúb (Job). The poor goats, when the hair is pulled out in that way, raise lamentable cries;

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Pilgrimages.

Pilgrimages.

Sheikh Hájí Bairám, the pole and column of sanctity, was born on the bank of the river Chepúl in the village of Solkoi and was the disciple of Sheikh Hámed. At the time when Sultán Báyazíd I. was at Adrianople, Sheikh Bairám preached there in the old mosque, and the pulpit which he ascended is still shown. Different Sheikhs who tried to ascend this pulpit could never utter a word, because none were worthy to preach after him in the same place. After his death, which happened in Báyazíd’s reign,

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Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazári.

Description of the town of Beg-bazárí or Bebek-bazári.

Dinár-hezár, the vezír of Yakúb Sháh of the Germián family, having conquered this town gave it the name Germián-hezárí. Once a week there is a famous market chiefly of goats-hair spun and woven. It is now the Khass of the Muftí of Constantinople who appoints the Súbashí. The judge, appointed with an hundred and fifty aspers, may easily collect seven purses. There is a Serdár and Kiaya-yerí, but no Dizdár and garrison, the castle being too small to hold any. At the foot of it lies the town distri

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Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople.

Journey from Beg-bazárí to Constantinople.

We marched nine hours to the north through cultivated villages and open meadows to the village of Sárí-beg. Here a gigantic wall is seen, which is said to have been moved by the miraculous power of Hají Begtásh, and the spot is shown where he sat upon the wall. It has no foundation and therefore it is evident it must have been moved hither. Seven hours further is the village of Kostek-beg of an hundred houses in a ground intersected by valleys. The inhabitants are free from all duties. At the ti

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Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín.

Description of the tomb of the great Saint Akshems-ud-dín.

He was born at Damascus and derives his genealogy from Abúbekr, which was proved by the absence of one of the joints in his finger, because all descendants from him are born with that defect. He had conversed with Sheháb-ud-dín Sehrverdí, who is buried in the castle of Baghdád, and at Angora with Hájí Bairám. He accompanied Mohammed II. to the conquest of Constantinople, and foretold the day when the town would be conquered. He and his whole family lie buried here. It was he who discovered the t

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