Vagabond Life In Mexico - free ebook by Gabriel Ferry

VAGABOND LIFEINMEXICO.

BY GABRIEL FERRY, FOR SEVEN YEARS RESIDENT IN THAT COUNTRY. NEW YORK. HARPER &amp; BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1856....

6 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

The Jamaïca and Mount Parnassus. Mexico is the most beautiful city ever built by the Spaniards in the New World; and even in Europe it would take a high place for splendor and magnificence. If you wish to behold the magnificent and varied panorama which Mexico presents, you have only to mount at sunset one of the towers of the Cathedral. On whatever side you turn your eye, you see before you the serrated peaks of the Cordilleras, forming a gigantic azure belt of about sixty leagues in circumfere

24 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

The Alameda. [8] —The Paseo of Bucareli. There are few towns in Mexico which can not boast of having an Alameda; and, as generally happens in the capital city, that of Mexico is decidedly the finest. There is no promenade of this sort in Paris. Hyde Park in London most nearly resembles it. The Alameda of Mexico forms a long square, surrounded by a wall breast high, at the bottom of which runs a deep ditch, whose muddy waters and offensive exhalation mar the appearance of this almost earthly para

15 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

A Mexican Wake. The company to which Perico had introduced me presented a very singular appearance. About twenty men and women of the lowest class were seated in a circle, chatting, bawling, and gesticulating. A dank, cadaverous smell pervaded the apartment, which was hardly smothered by the smoke of cigars, and the fumes of Xeres and Chinguirito . In a corner of the room stood a table loaded with provisions of every sort, with cups, bottles, and flasks. Some gamblers, seated at a table a little

18 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

The Convent of St. Francis. In the present state of society in Europe, in which the principles and traditions of the Middle Ages have been so completely broken up, one can hardly form any idea of the influence which the monk exercises in Mexico, and of the strong tie which connects him with the world. If, however, this bond had no existence, the singular picture which Mexican society presents would lose one of its greatest charms—the perpetual contrast, namely, of the customs and characteristics

11 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

The Viga Canal. Nowhere in Mexico could there be found a spot which presents an appearance more different, according to the seasons of the year, than the Viga Canal. No place is by turns more solitary or more crowded, more noisy or more silent. This canal, about twenty-four miles long, mixes its waters with the lake on which Chalco stands, and forms a means of transport and communication between that town and Mexico. A broad open road, planted with aspens and poplars, runs along its sleeping wat

7 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

An Indian Village. We had now been for some time on the road, and the night was getting darker and darker. The moon, which up to this time had lighted our way, was now becoming gradually encircled with a halo—a bad omen. At last it finally disappeared in a dense bank of clouds on the verge of the horizon. From time to time a yellowish sheet of lightning shot through the dark mass, and brought out, in strong relief, the dense blackness which enveloped the country around. The instinct of our horse

16 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

Fray Epigmenio. Already the Indian village lay a league behind us. The route we were pursuing was through a ravine, the road through which could with difficulty be believed to have been made by the hand of man. We soon entered a pine forest which ran along a chain of precipitous hills. The darkness, which was rendered thicker by the interlaced branches of the trees overhead, was so profound that our horses could literally advance only by the gleam of the vivid flashes of lightning. Soon the stor

10 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER V.

The Desierto. After fastening our horses in the outer court of the convent, we chose, near the entrance of the building, the cell which seemed to be most convenient for shelter. The first moments of our halt were devoted to an interchange of reflections, half merry, half serious, upon the danger we had run. Don Romulo confessed that he had taken part in seventeen conspiracies; that he had been banished, under circumstances of great aggravation, from three republics—from Peru, Ecuador, and Colomb

12 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

The Public Scribe.—Pepito Rechifla.—The China.—The Callejon del Arco. At the commencement of the year 1835 I happened to be in Mexico, engaged in the prosecution of a troublesome piece of business. This concerned the somewhat problematical recovery of a very considerable sum of money due me by an individual of whom I could not find the slightest trace. The business demanded the most energetic measures, and I addressed myself, in consequence, to several lawyers, well known for their success in de

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

A Mexican Gambling-house.—Navaja, the Mexican Bravo.—John Pearce, the Yankee. Night had come; one of those nights in May in which Mexico, seen by moonlight, assumes an appearance almost magical. The pale light of the moon sheds its soft radiance upon the stained steeples of the churches and the colored façades of the monuments. The moon here scatters her voluptuous light over the earth in a bounteous fashion, unknown in our northern regions. The crowd upon the Plaza Mayor was not so dense as bef

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

The Convent of the Bernardines.—The young Creole Lady. Arrived at the terrace, we stood for some time in silent contemplation. At our feet lay the ancient city of the Aztecs, with its domes and spires innumerable glittering in the pale moonlight. Not far from us, the Cathedral threw its gigantic shadow and the profile of its towers on the Plaza Mayor . In the distance, the Parian [24] reared its black mass in the midst of spaces whitened by the moon, like a dark rock surrounded by foaming billow

11 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

Manner of taking Possession in Mexico.—Tragical End of the Assassin of the Paseo. A month passed away without Don Tadeo giving any signs of life. At last a note, that he had sent me by his clerk Ortiz, explained the reason of his long delay. There were two causes that hindered my case from being proceeded with according to his customary activity. "One of these you may probably guess," he said. "The passing-bell that we heard tolling was for her ! After the first burst of grief I was about to tak

9 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

There is one peculiar charm in the towns of Mexico, and that is the perfect straightness of the streets, along which the eye wanders till the point of sight terminates in the blue hills of the country. In Mexico especially I was never tired gazing upon the mountains which bound the horizon upon all sides. On the east I seemed to hear the murmur of the Pacific, and on the west the hoarse roar of the Atlantic sounding from behind these mountains. The first of these oceans reminded me of one of the

8 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

The Hacienda of Arroyo Zarco.—The young Mexican Lady.—The young Spanish Nobleman.—Don Tomas Verdugo. The hacienda of Arroyo Zarco is a vast and imposing building, built partly of brick and partly of large stones, situated almost at the entrance to the extensive and fertile plains of Bajio. The place, however, where this hacienda rises, is far from presenting the smiling appearance which characterizes the basin bearing its name. It stands on a flat, barren plain, where grow a few melancholy-looki

16 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

The Elopement. After my new companion had been installed in my chamber, I went out under pretense of seeing that the horses were taken care of, and ordered Cecilio to fetch from the kitchen a supper sufficient for two persons. The Biscayan, after some ceremony, seemed quite willing to accompany me in my repast. I had already made a good supper, but, for politeness' sake, I took a small portion to bear him company, my guest meanwhile doing justice to the viands, and quite lost in wonder at my abs

12 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

Florencio Planillas, the Mexican Miner. Left alone in the midst of the desert plain of Cazadero, I remained, I must confess, a considerable time in a state of great uncertainty. Being far distant from any habitation, I was debating within my own mind whether I should not turn bridle and regain the hacienda of Arroyo Zarco; but the sun shone so cheerily upon the plain, and the morning air was so refreshing, that my discouragement and hesitation disappeared like the mist upon the hills, which had

15 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER V.

Assassination of the young Spanish Noble. On returning to the town, I inquired which of the three or four hotels in Guanajuata was the cheapest, convinced that it was only in one of that description that the Biscayan was to be found. I was right in my conjecture, for the first person I met on alighting in the court-yard of the posada was Don Jaime de Villalobos. He was just going out when I presented myself suddenly before him, and I had scarcely dismounted ere he pressed me in his arms, accordi

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

The Hand upon the Wall.—Desiderio Fuentes, the lucky Miner.—Don Tomas Verduzco. Hardly a century ago, Guanajuato was a town of very little importance. Before the sudden change in its fortune, which resulted from the rich yield of silver in the Valenciana and Rayas mines, the mining industry of Mexico had concentrated its activity in the works of Tasco, Pachuca, and Zacatecas. The title of ciudad (city) had been borne by Zacatecas since 1588, while Guanajuato, though founded in 1554, did not atta

16 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

Description of, and descent into, a Silver Mine.—The Miner's Chapel. When a mine is first begun, it is always left open to the sky, and the mineral is extracted by following the vein that contains it; but, as the mine gets deeper, two obstacles present themselves: the extraction of the ore becomes more costly, and the workmen are not long in meeting with hidden springs, the waters of which, unless removed, would drown the mine and stop the works. To provide against this danger, shafts are sunk,

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

Story of the Passer of the Rio Atotonilco, Osorio.—Felipe.—The young Miner.—A Duel in the Mine. "You are perhaps aware," said the miner, "that in passing from San Miguel el Grande [36] to Dolores, the traveler is obliged to cross the Rio Atotonilco. In the rainy season the passage of this river can not be made by any but those who know the principal fords. The stream is about sixty yards wide at the place where the road to San Miguel meets it. The impetuosity of its waters, and the heavy, imposi

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

Rencounter with Don Tomas Verduzco. I fancied a favorable moment had at last arrived for taking leave of Fuentes, for whom I entertained no good feeling, though a regard for myself caused me to conceal it. "What!" said he, "are you going to town? I am going there also; and you will find it more cheerful to have a companion by the way." We set out. Daylight was fast ebbing away, and it was doubtful if we should reach Guanajuato before nightfall. Desiderio kept up a continual flow of talk about th

9 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

Threatened Insurrection in Mexico.—Stealthy Movements of Troops.—General Don Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna. The day was approaching on which I was to leave Mexico for Vera Cruz, to embark for Europe. For several years before this a Yankee company had established a line of diligences which ran between several of the largest towns; wagons, also, for the conveyance of heavy goods, competed with the picturesque caravans of the arrieros on all the principal roads. Ought I to give up my habit of solitar

26 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

The Colonel Inn-keeper.—Sharp Fighting in the Streets of Mexico.—General Bustamente, President of the Republic. The lieutenant and I remained alone. I asked him to give me some explanation regarding the scenes of which I had been a witness. He very eagerly gave me some account of the discontent that prevailed among all classes, caused by the import duty of fifteen per cent. It was, in fact, the bad feeling which arose from this that had furnished the pretext for the new pronunciamento . The nume

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

Departure of the Convoy.—Victoriano, the Muleteer.—His sudden Disappearance.—The Convoy is attacked by Robbers. I purposed leaving Mexico now that order appeared established and commerce had returned to its wonted channels. I learned that the conducta was already in motion. I still held by my purpose of making part of the escort under the command of the Lieutenant Don Blas; and on the morning after a day spent in taking leave of my friends, I traversed the streets of Mexico for the last time, at

20 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

Don Tomas Verduzco is shot by Juanito.—Death of Captain Don Blas. It was a difficult enterprise on which we had entered. Darkness masked the march of the robbers, whose trail it would be almost impossible to follow unless during daylight, as it led over a volcanic soil. We were certain that the stolen mules had not been taken in the direction of Perote. From the place where we now were, the lights in the village of Hoya were easily discernible even through the dense fog which stretched all round

21 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

Jalapa. If there is any place in Mexico where the sun shines upon a richer vegetation than that in the valley of Jalapa, there is certainly no part of the country that enjoys a moister atmosphere. A dense, compact mass of light gray vapors always stretches from the summit of the Cofre de Perote to the very verge of the horizon. From this dark canopy, which is always charged with moisture, a fine drizzling rain falls, cloudlets of mist roll along the roofs of the houses, the streets are deserted,

15 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

I arrive at Manantial.—Superstitions of the Jarochos. The unfortunate occurrence recorded in the preceding chapter caused me to change my route. It was impossible for me to reach Vera Cruz that day, mounted as I was; so I resolved to pass the night at Manantial, a little village which I supposed to be not more than a mile off. I had thus some time before me, and I thought it could not be better employed than in taking a siesta under the shade of the trees, amid the green solitude in which I foun

13 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

The Fête of Manantial.—The Combat. The name of Jarochos is given to those peasants who live on the sea-board round Vera Cruz. Their costume bears no resemblance whatever to that of the people around them. The inhabitants of Andalusia wear a dress very similar to theirs, and it is the general opinion, from their manners and character, that they are the descendants of the Gitanos of that Spanish province. Their dialect is, like their attire, strange and singular. It abounds in words of the purest

22 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER I.

Vera Cruz.—Bocca del Rio. The place where Vera Cruz now stands is not that on which Cortez first disembarked. It was not till the end of the sixteenth century that Count de Monterey, the viceroy, laid the foundations of the present city. Destined to become the key to New Spain, Vera Cruz was built by the conquerors with all the splendor which they usually lavished on their undertakings. The houses were made large and spacious, and the streets crossed each other at right angles, to allow the fres

10 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER II.

The Wreckers.—Narrow Escape of Ventura. In spite of the violence of the tempest, the whole population of Bocca del Rio were assembled on the beach, and all eyes were fixed on the boiling sheet of foam, whose phosphorescent light contrasted strongly with the deep black of the heavens above. Not a sail was in sight. The distant boom of a gun, however, signaled that a ship was in distress, and that a pilot was required. In such a night as this, it was evident that nothing short of a miracle could s

12 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER III.

Excursion up a River.—Vengeance overtakes Campos, the Murderer. In a little creek, overshadowed by some gigantic willows, we found the pilot engaged in putting the oars on board a small boat that was moored to the bank. I was rather averse to a march through the woods, and it was with a feeling of pleasure that, instead of a pedestrian excursion, I saw we were to be conveyed to our place of destination in a boat. I communicated my satisfaction to the pilot. "Here," said he, "we only travel in tw

14 minute read

Read Chapter

CHAPTER IV.

The Duel.—Awful Death of the Murderer. We leaped ashore. The pilot tied the "dingy" to the bank, and led the advance. We soon reached the village. All was quiet there. The greater part of the inhabitants were still in their hammocks under the verandas of their cabins, but they saluted the pilot as he approached with the greeting of an old acquaintance. After replying briefly to the questions that were put to him, Ventura asked where Campos was. He pointed to Calros, and explained why he had come

5 minute read

Read Chapter

A LIST OF NEW BOOKS,

PUBLISHED BY HARPER &amp; BROTHERS. Squier's Central America. Notes on Central America; particularly the States of Honduras and San Salvador: their Geography, Topography, Climate, Population, Resources, Productions, &amp;c., &amp;c., and the proposed Interoceanic Railway. By E. G. Squier , formerly Chargé d'Affaires of the United States to the Republics of Central America. With Original Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Muslin, $2 00. Napoleon at St. Helena; Or, Interesting Anecdotes and

2 minute read

Read Chapter

HARPER'S NEW CLASSICAL LIBRARY.

Reprinted from "Bohn's Classical Library." Comprising Literal Translations of the principal Greek and Latin Authors. The works which it is proposed to issue are reprints from " Bohn's Classical Library ," brought out uniform with the English edition, and comprising faithful translations of the principal Greek and Latin classics. Each work will be given without abridgment, and will include short suggestive notes, adapted to the comprehension as well as the actual wants of the student. Copious and

16 minute read

Read Chapter