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BYEWAYS IN PALESTINE
BYEWAYS IN PALESTINE
by JAMES FINN, M.R.A.S., and member of the asiatic society of france , late her majesty’s consul for jerusalem and palestine . “The land, which we passed through to search it, is an exceeding good land.”— Numb. xiv. 7. LONDON: JAMES NISBET & CO., 21 BERNERS STREET. mdccclxviii . To His Excellency Right Hon. Francis Lord Napier , K.T. , etc. etc. etc. , Governor of the Presidency of Madras , This little Volume is inscribed , in grateful acknowledgment of kindness received in Jerusalem and
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
These papers on “Byeways in Palestine” are compiled from notes of certain journeys made during many years’ residence in that country; omitting the journeys made upon beaten roads, and through the principal towns, for the mere reason that they were such. Just what met the eye and ear was jotted down and is now revised after a lapse of time, without indulging much in meditation or reflection; these are rather suggested by the occurrences, that they may be followed out by the reader. Inasmuch, how
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NOTE.
NOTE.
The frontispiece picture to this volume represents the relic of a small Roman Temple, situated on the eastern edge of the Plain of Sharon, near the line of hills, between the two villages Awali and M’zeera’a. It is quadrangular in form, with a door and portico on its north front. The portico is supported by two round columns of Corinthian order, and two pilasters of the same at the extremities. The columns are of small dimensions, the shafts not exceeding nine feet in length; yet in these the c
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I. OVER THE JORDAN AND RETURN BY THE WEST.
I. OVER THE JORDAN AND RETURN BY THE WEST.
We were a dozen Englishmen, including three clergymen, undertaking the above journey accompanied by the large train of servants, interpreters, and muleteers usually required for travelling in the East. And it was on Wednesday, the 9th day of May 1855, that we started. This was considered almost late in the season for such an enterprise. The weather was hot, chiefly produced by a strong shirocco wind at the time; and, in crossing over the shoulder of the Mount of Olives, we found the country p
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II. NORTHWARDS TO BEISÂN, KADIS, ANTIPATRIS, etc.
II. NORTHWARDS TO BEISÂN, KADIS, ANTIPATRIS, etc.
October 23, 1850. Leaving Jerusalem upon the Nabloos road, and crossing the upper portion of the valley which, lower down, after a curve becomes the valley of Jehoshaphat, we passed almost directly over the sepulchre of Simon the Just, of whom such “excellent things are spoken” in the books of the Maccabees, and in whose memory an annual festival is kept by the Jerusalem Jews on this spot on the day called רםועלן"ל rather more than a month after the passover. Two other saints are celebrated on
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III. SOUTHWARDS ON THE PHILISTINE PLAIN AND ITS SEA COAST.
III. SOUTHWARDS ON THE PHILISTINE PLAIN AND ITS SEA COAST.
This extensive level is the original Palestine—the Pelesheth of Exod. xv. 14, and Isa. xiv. 29. So named because it was the country of the Pelishtim or Philistines (of Genesis x. 14, and passim ) in the Old Testament history, extending from about Cæsarea to Gaza, or farther southwards, and from the Mediterranean to the hill country of Judea, west to east. This district is so exclusively understood in modern times by the name Palestine or Philistia, that a deputation of Oriental Christians comin
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CHAPTER IV. HEBRON TO BEERSHEBA, AND HEBRON TO JAFFA.
CHAPTER IV. HEBRON TO BEERSHEBA, AND HEBRON TO JAFFA.
In August 1849 I left my large family encampment under the branches of the great oak of Sibta, commonly called Abraham’s oak by most people except the Jews, who do not believe in any Abraham’s oak there. The great patriarch planted, indeed, a grove at Beersheba; but the “ Eloné Mamre ” they declare to have been “plains,” not “oaks,” (which would be Alloné Mamre ,) and to have been situated northwards instead of westwards from the present Hebron. With a couple of attendants I was bound for Beer
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V. THE LAND OF BENJAMIN.
V. THE LAND OF BENJAMIN.
Who has ever stood upon the Scopus hill, north of Jerusalem, (his mind first prepared by biblical reading and biblical feeling,) facing northwards, and seeing at one glance, as upon a map, the land of the tribe of Benjamin, without desiring to wander about there, were it only to experience the reality of standing and breathing upon the sites of ’Anathoth, Michmash, Gibea of Saul, and Gibeon? It can be most of it performed in one day, and sometimes a line through it is traversed in that time by
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VI. SEBUSTIEH TO CAIFFA.
VI. SEBUSTIEH TO CAIFFA.
In October, 1848, I found myself at Sebustieh, the ancient Samaria, having come thither from Jerusalem by the common route through Nabloos, i.e. , Shechem. Since that time I have often been there, but never without a feeling of very deep interest, not only in the beauty of its site, worthy of a royal city, or in the Roman remains still subsisting, but also in the remarkable fulfilments of Biblical prophecy which the place exhibits. The stones of the ancient buildings are literally poured down
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1. FROM SAFED TO CARMEL.
1. FROM SAFED TO CARMEL.
Sept. 1846. Going in the direction of the sea, that is, from Naphtali downwards into Zebulon, we crossed westwards the Jebel Rama , a long hilly range ending in the south at Rama, and richly wooded, but to our surprise there were numerous fires left by the people to consume trees and large shrubs at discretion, for the making of charcoal. Fortunately for us there was no wind blowing, but several times as the fiery ashes had been drifted upon the road, our horses had no choice but to step into t
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2. NAZARETH TOWARDS ACRE.
2. NAZARETH TOWARDS ACRE.
Oct. 1849. Passing Sefoorieh , (the Sepphoris so often mentioned in Josephus) with a distant view of Carmel on the left, like a huge rampart of dark blue, we came to the ruined Khan with a fountain called the ’Ain el Bedaweeyeh , then through delightful wooded glades, on issuing from which we saw Shefa ’Amer , a handsome-looking place, with which I made better acquaintance in after years. On the plain of Acre I picked up a cannon ball, probably a twelve pounder. (This journey was repeated in Mar
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3. FROM TIBERIAS TO ACRE.
3. FROM TIBERIAS TO ACRE.
March 1850. From Hhatteen to ’Eilaboon , a quiet and pretty village, after which we had a long stretch of “merrie greenwood” with furze in golden blossom, birds singing, and the clucking of partridges. At one place where the old trees echoed the shouts of country children at their sports, there rose above the summits a bold round tower, which on nearer approach we found to be an outwork of the fortification of a venerable convent called Dair Hhanna , which in comparatively recent times had been
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1. ACRE TO TIBERIAS.
1. ACRE TO TIBERIAS.
Crossed the river Naamân, and paced slowly over the extensive marshes, making for Shefa ’Amer . Among these marshes was a herd of about two hundred horses at free pasture upon the grass, weeds, and rushes, so succulent at that season of the year; these were on their way from Northern Syria, and were intended for sale. Also among the marshes was a temporary village of tabernacles or huts made of plaited palm-leaves, and papyrus canes or reeds, such as one sees on the line of the Jordan or about t
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2. CAIFFA TO NAZARETH.
2. CAIFFA TO NAZARETH.
July 1854. Passing through the rush of ’Ain Saadeh water as it tumbles from the rocky base of Carmel, and by the Beled esh Shaikh and Yajoor , we crossed the Kishon bed to take a road new to me, namely, by Damooneh , leaving Mujaidel and Yafah visible on our right, upon the crests of hills overlooking the Plain of Esdraelon. We passed through a good deal of greenwood scenery, so refreshing in the month of July, but on the whole not equal in beauty to the road by Shefa ’Amer....
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3. CAIFFA TO NAZARETH.
3. CAIFFA TO NAZARETH.
Sept. 1857. By Beled esh Shaikh and Yajoor , where threshing of the harvest was in progress in the Galilean fashion by means of the moraj , (in Hebrew the morag , Isa. xli. 15 and 2 Sam. xxiv. 22,) which is a stout board of wood, with iron teeth or flints on the under surface. The plank turns upward in front, and the man or boy stands upon it in exactly the attitude of a Grecian charioteer: one foot advanced; the head and chest well thrown back; the reins in his left hand, and with a long thon
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4. CAIFFA TO SHEFA ’AMER.
4. CAIFFA TO SHEFA ’AMER.
June 1859. From Beled esh Shaikh and Yajoor , across the Kishon channel, upon the plain of Acre, and rested a short time at the Weli of Jedro , (very like a Hebrew name,) and then near us, all close together were the three villages of Cuf’r Ita , Ja’arah and Hurbaj . Thence to Shefa ’Amer, first diverging somewhat to ’Ebeleen ....
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1. PLAIN OF SHARON TO CAIFFA.
1. PLAIN OF SHARON TO CAIFFA.
Oct. 1849. At Baka we leave the plain of Sharon, at its northern end, if indeed the extensive level from the Egyptian desert up to this point, may come under this one denomination; and we enter upon the hilly woodlands of Ephraim and Manasseh, so clearly described in Joshua xvii. 11, 17, 18. In mounting to the higher ground, there is obtained a fine view of the sea, and the oak and karoobah trees were larger as we advanced; from certain stations we obtained a totally unexpected prospect of a str
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2. PLAIN OF SHARON TO CAIFFA.
2. PLAIN OF SHARON TO CAIFFA.
June 1859. As before, we left the northern extremity of the plain of Sharon, but this time at the eastern and minor village of Baka , and thus we missed the ruined town before noticed, but got into the same valley of ’Arah ; and in the great heat of summer, confined between the two ridges of hills, we crept on to the extremity of the valley, and mounted a hill to the village of Mushmusheh , opposite to Umm el Fahh’m . All the villages in that region are situated on hills, and are of no easy acc
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IV. FROM CARMEL SOUTH-EASTWARDS.
IV. FROM CARMEL SOUTH-EASTWARDS.
April 1859. The usual way by ’Ain Sa’adeh , Beled esh Shaikh and Yajoor ; the woody sides of Carmel diversified in colour at this season of spring; there was the dark green of the bellota oak, the yellow of the abundant broom, the dark red-brown of the sprouting terebinth and the pale green of young-leafed trees of many other kinds. There was, moreover, the fragrance of an occasional pine, and of the hawthorn, (Za’aroor,) which is of stronger scent than in England; and the ground was sprinkled
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VIII. BELÂD BESHÂRAH.
VIII. BELÂD BESHÂRAH.
This is the mountainous district lying east and south of Tyre, probably the “Galilee of the Gentiles;” bounded on the north by the river Kasimîyeh , the ancient Leontes; on the west by the plain of Tyre; on the east by the plain of Hhooleh and of the Upper Jordan; on the south by hills around Safed: the district is very little known to Europeans, and was much less so in 1848. In that year I entered it from the North, after traversing the Sidon country, crossing the pleasant river with its rose-c
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IX. UPPER GALILEE.—FOREST SCENERY.
IX. UPPER GALILEE.—FOREST SCENERY.
Tibneen has been already mentioned as one of the two capital villages of the Belâd Beshârah, and lying S.E. from Tyre. We have now before us the Galilean country that lies southwards between that place and Nazareth. July 1853.—After honourable entertainment and refreshing sleep in the Castle of Tibneen, I awoke early to look out on the dark and broad mass of Mount Hermon by starlight. Coffee was served, and I was mounted on my “gallant gray,” still by twilight, parting with some friends who had
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X. A TEMPLE OF BAAL AND SEPULCHRE OF PHŒNICIA.
X. A TEMPLE OF BAAL AND SEPULCHRE OF PHŒNICIA.
About midway between Tyre and Sidon lies what has been called by Porter and Tristram a kind of Syrian Stonehenge; but neither they nor Vandevelde, who likewise mentions it, really visited the spot. The remains are not even mentioned in Carl Ritter’s elaborate compilation, the “Erd-Kunde,” nor in Robinson or Thompson; but as I have visited them five times, namely in October 1848, October 1849, September 1855, October 1857, and September 1859, I may as well tell what I know of these monuments, whi
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XI. JERUSALEM TO PETRA, AND RETURN BY THE DEAD SEA.
XI. JERUSALEM TO PETRA, AND RETURN BY THE DEAD SEA.
During the last twenty years there have been many English and other visitors to Petra; but they have usually taken it in the way from Egypt towards Jerusalem, which is probably convenient with respect to the season of the year, inasmuch as they thereby get a warm winter before the “sights” of Jerusalem (as some irreverently speak) begin. It would not be so well to take Egypt after Easter. But, on hearing that several travellers had been unable to reach Petra even after ’Akabah, on account of ho
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XII. ACROSS THE LEBANON.
XII. ACROSS THE LEBANON.
I have traversed the Lebanon eastwards and southwards of Bayroot several times; once in 1849; again in 1853; and also in 1855: but it seems advisable to narrate the incidents separately, and although on two occasions I passed over nearly the same ground, it will be curious to compare or contrast those journeys, inasmuch as the circumstances were dissimilar. PART I.—1849. The course of the first journey was as follows:—From Sidon on the sea-coast we gradually climbed the Lebanon range eastward; t
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XIII. NORTH-WEST OF THE DEAD SEA.
XIII. NORTH-WEST OF THE DEAD SEA.
In December 1856, I met, by appointment, at Jericho the Rev. A. A. Isaacs, and my friend James Graham, who were going with photographic apparatus to take views at the site called Wadi Gumrân, near ’Ain Feshkah, where a few years before M. de Saulcy, under the guidance of an ardent imagination, believed he had found extensive and cyclopean remains of the city Gomorrah, and had published an account of that interesting discovery. It was on Christmas eve that we rose early by starlight, and had our
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XIV. SOBA.
XIV. SOBA.
On the crest of a high hill two or three hours west from Jerusalem, stands the village of Soba, and it has long been imagined to be Modin, the birth-place and burial-place of the Maccabæan heroes; though I never heard any reason assigned for that identification, except the circumstance of the sea being visible from it, and therefore of its being visible from the sea, which was supposed to tally with the description given in 1 Macc. xiii., 27-30, of the monuments erected there,—“Simon also built
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XV. THE TWO BAIT SAHHOORS IDENTIFIED WITH BETHSURA AND BATH ZACHARIAS.
XV. THE TWO BAIT SAHHOORS IDENTIFIED WITH BETHSURA AND BATH ZACHARIAS.
There are two villages in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem bearing the name of Bait Sahhoor. One lies near to the city, beyond En-Rogel, a little way down the valley of the Kedron; the other is farther off, close under Bethlehem. By way of distinction, the former is called “Bait Sahhoor of the Wâdi,” and the latter, “Bait Sahhoor of the Christians.” I think that it can be shown that these places, though now fallen from their high estate, once played their part in important events,—that Bait Sah
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XVI. THE BAKOOSH COTTAGE.
XVI. THE BAKOOSH COTTAGE.
At about seven miles from Jerusalem lie the Pools of Solomon, commonly called the “Burâk,” upon the road to Hebron, which passes by the head of the westernmost of them, on the left hand of the traveller to that city; while immediately on the right hand, stands a hill with some cultivation of vineyards and fig-trees, with a few olive-trees; apparently half-way up that hill is a stone cottage, roughly but well built. It is of that cottage and its grounds that I am about to speak, for there I resi
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A.—Page 32.
A.—Page 32.
The signs here referred to were guessed by Buckingham (about 1816) to be possibly some distinctive tokens of Arab tribes; but he seemed rather inclined to connect them with marks that are found in Indian caverns, or those on the rocks about Mount Sinai. He was thus nearer to the truth than the latest of travellers, De Saulcy, who, with all his knowledge of Semitic alphabets, says of some of these graffiti , or scratchings, at ’Ammân, which he copied: “Tout cela, je regrette fort, est lettre clos
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B.—Page 367.
B.—Page 367.
Considerable discrepancy may be found among the transcripts furnished by travellers in their published works, of the Greek votive inscriptions about the entrance of the cavern of Pan at Banias. I give the following as the result of careful study of them in 1849, and again, after the lapse of six years, in 1855, each time examining the writing, under varieties of light and shade, at different hours of the day. There are some other inscriptions, which are entirely blackened with smoke, in the nich
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