A Voyage To Terra Australis - free ebook by Matthew Flinders

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A Voyage To Terra Australis

Matthew Flinders

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[Facsimile Edition, 1966]

[Facsimile Edition, 1966]

TO The Right Hon. George John, Earl Spencer, The Right Hon. John, Earl of St Vincent, The Right Hon. Charles Philip Yorke, and The Right Hon. Robert Saunders, Viscount Melville, who, as First Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, successively honoured the Investigator's voyage with their patronage, This account of it is respectfully dedicated, by their Lordships' most obliged, and most obedient humble servant, Matthew Flinders. London, 20 May 1814. This chart was published in 1804 a year after F

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PREFACE.

PREFACE.

The publication in 1814 of a voyage commenced in 1801, and of which all the essential parts were concluded within three years, requires some explanation. Shipwreck and a long imprisonment prevented my arrival in England until the latter end of 1810; much had then been done to forward the account, and the charts in particular were nearly prepared for the engraver; but it was desirable that the astronomical observations, upon which so much depended, should undergo a re-calculation, and the lunar d

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VOLUME I

VOLUME I

TABLE OF CONTENTS. (For both volumes) IN THE FIRST VOLUME. INTRODUCTION. PRIOR DISCOVERIES IN TERRA AUSTRALIS. SECTION I. NORTH COAST. Preliminary Remarks: Discoveries of the Duyfhen; of Torres; Carstens; Pool; Pietersen; Tasman; and of three Dutch vessels. Of Cook; M'Cluer; Bligh; Edwards; Bligh and Portlock; and Bampton and Alt. Conclusive Remarks. SECTION II. WESTERN COASTS. Preliminary Observations. Discoveries of Hartog: Edel: of the Ship Leeuwin: the Vianen: of Pelsert: Tasman: Dampier: Vl

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A LIST OF THE PLATES, WITH DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

A LIST OF THE PLATES, WITH DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

IN VOLUME I. View from the south side of King George's Sound. Entrance of Port Lincoln, taken from behind Memory Cove. View on the north side of Kangaroo Island. View of Port Jackson, taken from the South Head. IN VOLUME II. View of Port Bowen, from behind the Watering Gully. View of Murray's Islands, with the natives offering to barter. View in Sir Edward Pellew's Group--Gulph of Carpentaria. View of Malay Road, from Pobassoo's Island. View of Wreck-Reef Bank, taken at low water. IN THE ATLAS.

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INTRODUCTION.

INTRODUCTION.

The voyages which had been made, during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, by Dutch and by English navigators, had successively brought to light various extensive coasts in the southern hemisphere, which were thought to be united; and to comprise a land, which must be nearly equal in magnitude to the whole of Europe. To this land, though known to be separated from all other great portions of the globe, geographers were disposed to give the appellation of Continent: but doubts still existe

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SECTION I. NORTH COAST.

SECTION I. NORTH COAST.

Preliminary Remarks: Discoveries of the Duyfhen; of Torres; Carstens; Pool; Pietersen; Tasman; and of three Dutch vessels. Of Cook; M'Cluer; Bligh; Edwards; Bligh and Portlock; and Bampton and Alt. Conclusive Remarks. PRELIMINARY REMARKS The late Hydrographer to the Admiralty, ALEXANDER DALRYMPLE, Esq., in his curious Collection concerning PAPUA, published, with a translation, a paper which furnishes more regular and authentic accounts of the early Dutch discoveries in the East, than any thing w

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SECTION II. WESTERN COASTS.

SECTION II. WESTERN COASTS.

Preliminary Observations. Discoveries of Hartog: Edel: of the Ship Leeuwin: the Vianen: of Pelsert: Tasman: Dampier: Vlaming: Dampier. Conclusive Remarks. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. (ATLAS Pl. I.) Under the term WESTERN COASTS, is comprehended the space from the western extremity of the northern Van Diemen's Land to the North-west Cape of New Holland; and from thence, southward to Cape Leeuwin . The first is usually termed the North-west, and the second the West Coast: Taken together, they presen

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SECTION III. SOUTH COAST.

SECTION III. SOUTH COAST.

Discovery of Nuyts. Examination of Vancouver: of D'Entrecasteaux. Conclusive Remarks./p NUYTS. 1627. (Atl. Pl. I.) No historical fact seems to be less disputed, than that the South Coast of New Holland was first discovered in January 1627: whether it were the 26th, according to De Hondt , or the 16th, as is expressed on Thevenot's chart, is of very little import. It is generally said, that the ship was commanded by PIETER NUYTS; but as Nuyts, on his arrival at Batavia, was sent ambassador to Jap

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SECTION IV. EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. PART I.

SECTION IV. EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. PART I.

Preliminary Observations. Discoveries of Tasman; of Cook; Marion and Furneaux. Observations of Cook; Bligh; and Cox. Discovery of D'Entrecasteaux. Hayes. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. Van Diemen'S Land would more properly have been arranged under the head of the South Coast; but the later discoveries here have so intimate a connexion with those on the East, as to render it impossible to separate them without making repetitions, and losing perspicuity in the narrative. The anxiety of the Dutch govern

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SECTION IV. EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. PART II.

SECTION IV. EAST COAST, WITH VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. PART II.

Preliminary Information. Boat expeditions of Bass and Flinders. Clarke. Shortland. Discoveries of Bass to the southward of Port Jackson; of Flinders; and of Flinders and Bass. Examinations to the northward by Flinders. Conclusive Remarks. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. The year 1788 will ever be a memorable epoch in the history of Terra Australis. On Jan. 18, Captain (now vice-admiral) ARTHUR PHILLIP arrived in Botany Bay, with His Majesty's brig Supply ; and was followed by the Syrius , captain John

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CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

Appointment to the Investigator. Outfit of the ship. Instruments, books, and charts supplied, with articles for presents and barter. Liberal conduct of the Hon. East-India Company. Passage round to Spithead. The Roar sand. Instructions for the execution of the voyage. French passport, and orders in consequence. Officers and company of the Investigator, and men of science who embarked. Account of the time keepers. 1801. JANUARY. [IN ENGLAND. SHEERNESS.] On the 19th of January 1801, a commission w

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CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Spithead. Variation of the compass. The Dezertas. Arrival at Madeira. Remarks on Funchal. Political state of the island. Latitude and longitude. Departure from Madeira. The island St. Antonio. Foul winds; and remarks upon them. The ship leaky. Search made for Isle Sable. Trinidad. Saxemberg sought for. Variation of the compass. State of the ship's company, on arriving at the Cape of Good Hope. Refitment at Simon's Bay. Observatory set Up. The astronomer quits the expedition. Rates

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CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

Departure from False Bay. Remarks on the passage to Terra Australis. Gravity of sea-water tried. Cape Leeuwin, and the coast from thence to King George's Sound. Arrival in the Sound. Examination of the harbours. Excursion inland. Country, soil, and productions. Native inhabitants: Language and anatomical measurement. Astronomical and nautical observations. [TOWARDS NEW HOLLAND] WEDNESDAY 4 NOVEMBER 1801 At daybreak of November 4, a light breeze from the eastward enabled me to quit Simon's Bay, a

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CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from King George's Sound. Coast from thence to the Archipelago of the Recherche. Discovery of Lucky Bay and Thistle's Cove. The surrounding country, and islands of the Archipelago. Astronomical and nautical observations. Goose-Island Bay. A salt lake. Nautical observations. Coast from the Archipelago to the end of Nuyts' Land. Arrival in a bay of the unknown coast. Remarks on the preceding examination. [SOUTH COAST. FROM KING GEORGE'S SOUND.] JANUARY 1802 In running along that part of

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CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER V.

Fowler's Bay. Departure from thence. Arrival at the Isles of St. Francis. Correspondence between the winds and the marine barometer. Examination of the other parts of Nuyts' Archipelago, and of the main coast. The Isles of St Peter. Return to St. Francis. General remarks on Nuyts' Archipelago. Identification of the islands in the Dutch chart. THURSDAY 28 JANUARY 1802 (Atlas, Plate IV.) The bay in which we anchored on the evening of January 28, at the extremity of the before known south coast of

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CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VI.

Prosecution of the discovery of the unknown coast. Anxious Bay. Anchorage at Waldegrave's and at Flinders' Islands. The Investigator's Group. Coffin's Bay. Whidbey's Isles. Differences in the magnetic needle. Cape Wiles. Anchorage at Thistle's Island. Thorny Passage. Fatal accident. Anchorage in Memory Cove. Cape Catastrophe, and the surrounding country. Anchorage in Port Lincoln, and refitment of the ship. Remarks on the country and inhabitants. Astronomical and nautical observations. [SOUTH CO

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CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Port Lincoln. Sir Joseph Banks' Group. Examination of the coast, northward. The ship found to be in a gulph. Anchorage near the head of the gulph. Boat expedition. Excursion to Mount Brown. Nautical observations. Departure from the head, and examination of the east side of the gulph. Extensive shoal. Point Pearce. Hardwicke Bay. Verification of the time keepers. General remarks on the gulph. Cape Spencer and the Althorpe Isles. New land discovered: Anchorage there. General remarks

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CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Kangaroo Island. Examination of the main coast, from Cape Spencer eastward. The Investigator's Strait. A new gulph discovered. Anchorage at, and examination of the head. Remarks on the surrounding land. Return down the gulph. Troubridge Shoal. Yorke's Peninsula. Return to Kangaroo Island. Boat expedition to Pelican Lagoon. Astronomical observations. Kangaroo Island quitted. Back-stairs Passage. The coast from Cape Jervis, eastward. Meeting, and communication with Le Geographe. Rem

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CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

Examination of the coast resumed. Encounter Bay. The capes Bernouilli and Jaffa. Baudin's Rocks. Differences in the bearings on tacking. Cape Buffon, the eastern limit of the French discovery. The capes Northumberland and Bridgewater of captain Grant. Danger from a south-west gale. King's Island, in Bass' Strait: Anchorage there. Some account of the island. Nautical observations. New Year's Isles. Cape Otway, and the north-west entrance to Bass' Strait. Anchorage in, and examination of Port Phil

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CHAPTER X.

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Port Phillip. Cape Schanck. Wilson's Promontory, and its isles. Kent's Groups, and Furneaux's Isles. Hills behind the Long Beach. Arrival at Port Jackson. Health of the ship's company. Refitment and supply of the ship. Price of provisions. Volunteers entered. Arrangement for the succeeding part of the voyage. French ships. Astronomical and nautical observations. [SOUTH COAST. BASS' STRAIT.] MONDAY 3 MAY 1802 On the 3rd of May at daylight the anchor was weighed to go out of Port Ph

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CHAPTER XI.

CHAPTER XI.

Of the winds and currents on the south coast of Terra Australis, and in Bass' Strait. Usual progress of the gales. Proper seasons for sailing eastward, and for going westward: best places of shelter in each case, with some instructions for the Strait. [SOUTH COAST. WINDS AND CURRENTS] Before entering upon the second part of the voyage, it seems proper to give an account of the winds and currents which prevailed upon the South Coast; and to add thereto such other general information as may be use

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APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

Account of the observations by which the Longitudes of places on the south coast of Terra Australis have been settled. The lunar distances and other observations taken in the Investigator's voyage having been ordered by the Commissioners of the Board of Longitude to be recalculated by a professed astronomer, with every degree of correctness which science has hitherto been able to point out as necessary, this delicate, but laborious task was assigned to Mr. John Crosley, formerly assistant at the

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[Facsimile Edition, 1966]

[Facsimile Edition, 1966]

This chart was published in 1804 a year after Flinders circumnavigated Australia. The continent's true shape was shown for the first time. This chart did NOT appear in A Voyage to Terra Australis, published in 1814....

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CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Port Jackson, with the Lady Nelson. Examination of various parts of the East Coast, from thence to Sandy Cape. Break-sea Spit. Anchorage in Hervey's Bay, where the Lady Nelson joins after a separation. Some account of the inhabitants. Variations of the compass. Run to Bustard Bay. Port Curtis discovered, and examined. Some account of the surrounding country. Arrival in Keppel Bay, and examination of its branches, one of which leads into Port Curtis. Some account of the natives, an

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CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

The Keppel Isles, and coast to Cape Manifold. A new port discovered and examined. Harvey's Isles. A new passage into Shoal-water Bay. View from Mount Westall. A boat lost. The upper parts of Shoal-water Bay examined. Some account of the country and inhabitants. General remarks on the bay. Astronomical and nautical observations. [EAST COAST. FROM KEPPEL BAY.] AUGUST 1802 The rocks and islands lying off Keppel Bay to the northward, are numerous and scattered without order; two of them are of great

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CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Shoal-water Bay, and anchorage in Thirsty Sound. Magnetical observations. Boat excursion to the nearest Northumberland Islands. Remarks on Thirsty Sound. Observations at West Hill, Broad Sound. Anchorage near Upper Head. Expedition to the head of Broad Sound: another round Long Island. Remarks on Broad Sound, and the surrounding country. Advantages for a colony. Astronomical observations, and remarks on the high tides. [EAST COAST. THIRSTY SOUND.] SATURDAY 4 SEPTEMBER 1802 At noon

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CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

The Percy Isles: anchorage at No. 2. Boat excursions. Remarks on the Percy Isles; with nautical observations. Coral reefs: courses amongst them during eleven days search for a passage through, to sea. Description of a reef. Anchorage at an eastern Cumberland Isle. The Lady Nelson sent back to Port Jackson. Continuation of coral reefs; and courses amongst them during three other days. Cape Gloucester. An opening discovered, and the reefs quitted. General remarks on the Great Barrier; with some in

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CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER V.

Passage from the Barrier Reefs to Torres' Strait. Reefs named Eastern Fields. Pandora's Entrance to the Strait. Anchorage at Murray's Islands. Communication with the inhabitants. Half-way Island. Notions on the formation of coral islands in general. Prince of Wales's Islands, with remarks on them. Wallis' Isles. Entrance into the Gulph of Carpentaria. Review of the passage through Torres' Strait. [EAST COAST. TOWARDS TORRES' STRAIT.] THURSDAY 21 OCTOBER 1802 The last reefs were out of sight in t

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CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VI.

Examination of the coast on the east side of the Gulph of Carpentaria. Landing at Coen River. Head of the Gulph. Anchorage at Sweers' Island. Interview with Indians at Horse-shoe Island. Investigator's Road. The ship found to be in a state of decay. General remarks on the islands at the Head of the Gulph, and their inhabitants. Astronomical and nautical observations. THURSDAY 4 NOVEMBER 1802 In the morning of Nov. 4, the wind was at south-east, and we steered southward, close to it, with soundin

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CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.

Departure from Sweers' Island. South side of C. Van Diemen examined. Anchorage at Bountiful Island: turtle and sharks there. Land of C. Van Diemen proved to be an island. Examination of the main coast to Cape Vanderlin. That cape found to be one of a group of islands. Examination of the islands; their soil, etc. Monument of the natives. Traces of former visitors to these parts. Astronomical and nautical observations. [NORTH COAST. WELLESLEY'S ISLANDS.] WEDNESDAY 1 DECEMBER 1802 (Atlas, Plate XIV

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CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER VIII.

Departure from Sir Edward Pellew's Group. Coast from thence westward. Cape Maria found to be an island. Limmen's Bight. Coast northward to Cape Barrow: landing on it. Circumnavigation of Groote Eylandt. Specimens of native art at Chasm Island. Anchorage in North-west Bay, Groote Eylandt; with remarks and nautical observations. Blue-mud Bay. Skirmish with the natives. Cape Shield. Mount Grindall. Coast to Caledon Bay. Occurrences in that bay, with remarks on the country and inhabitants. Astronomi

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CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

Departure from Caledon Bay. Cape Arnhem. Melville Bay. Cape Wilberforce, and Bromby's Isles. The English Company's Islands: meeting there with vessels from Macassar. Arnhem Bay. The Wessel's Islands. Further examination of the North Coast postponed. Arrival at Coepang Bay, in Timor. Remarks and astronomical observations. [NORTH COAST. GULPH OF CARPENTARIA.] THURSDAY 10 FEBRUARY 1803 (Atlas, Plate XV.) At daylight in the morning of Feb. 10, we sailed down Caledon Bay, and steered eastward along t

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CHAPTER X.

CHAPTER X.

Departure from Timor. Search made for the Trial Rocks. Anchorage in Goose-Island Bay. Interment of the boatswain, and sickly state of the ship's company. Escape from the bay, and passage through Bass' Strait. Arrival at Port Jackson. Losses in men. Survey and condemnation of the ship. Plans for continuing the survey; but preparation finally made for returning to England. State of the colony at Port Jackson. [FROM TIMOR. TOWARDS CAPE LEEUWIN.] FRIDAY 8 APRIL 1803 (Atlas, Plate XVI.) When we stret

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CHAPTER XI.

CHAPTER XI.

Of the winds, currents, and navigation along the east coast of Terra Australis, both without and within the tropic; also on the north coast. Directions for sailing from Port Jackson, through Torres' Strait, towards India or the Cape of Good Hope. Advantages of this passage over that round New Guinea. [EAST COAST. WINDS AND CURRENTS.] On completing the first portion of the voyage, I entered into an explanation of the winds and currents which had been found to prevail upon the south coast of Terra

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CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Port Jackson in the Porpoise, accompanied by the Bridgewater and Cato. The Cato's Bank. Shipwreck of the Porpoise and Cato in the night. The crews get on a sand bank; where they are left by the Bridgewater. Provisions saved. Regulations on the bank. Measures adopted for getting back to Port Jackson. Description of Wreck-Reef Bank. Remarks on the loss of M. de La Pérouse. [EAST COAST. PORT JACKSON] 1803 The third volume of my log book and journal having been lost in the events whic

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CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

Departure from Wreck-Reef Bank in a boat. Boisterous weather. The Coast of New South Wales reached, and followed. Natives at Point Look-out. Landing near Smoky Cape; and again near Port Hunter. Arrival at Port Jackson on the thirteenth day. Return to Wreck Reef with a ship and two schooners. Arrangements at the Bank. Account of the reef, with nautical and other remarks. [EAST COAST. IN THE BOAT.] FRIDAY 26 AUGUST 1803 (Atlas, Plate X.) On August 26, the largest cutter being ready for her expedit

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CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

Passage in the Cumberland to Torres' Strait. Eastern Fields and Pandora's Entrance. New channels amongst the reefs. Anchorage at Half-way Island, and under the York Isles. Prince of Wales's Islands further examined. Booby Isle. Passage across the Gulph of Carpentaria. Anchorage at Wessel's Islands. Passage to Coepang Bay, in Timor; and to Mauritius, where the leakiness of the Cumberland makes it necessary to stop. Anchorage at the Baye du Cap, and departure for Port Louis. [EAST COAST. TOWARDS T

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CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

Arrival at Port Louis (or North-West) in Mauritius. Interview with the French governor. Seizure of the Cumberland, with the charts and journals of the Investigator's voyage; and imprisonment of the commander and people. Letters to the governor, with his answer. Restitution of some books and charts. Friendly act of the English interpreter. Propositions made to the governor. Humane conduct of captain Bergeret. Reflections on a voyage of discovery. Removal to the Maison Despeaux or Garden Prison. [

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CHAPTER V.

CHAPTER V.

Prisoners in the Maison Despeaux or Garden Prison. Application to admiral Linois. Spy-glasses and swords taken. Some papers restored. Opinions upon the detention of the Cumberland. Letter of captain Baudin. An English squadron arrives off Mauritius: its consequences. Arrival of a French officer with despatches, and observations thereon. Passages in the Moniteur, with remarks. Mr. Aken liberated. Arrival of cartels from India. Application made by the marquis Wellesley. Different treatment of Engl

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CHAPTER VI.

CHAPTER VI.

Parole given. Journey into the interior of Mauritius. The governor's country seat. Residence at the Refuge, in that Part of Wilhems Plains called Vacouas. Its situation and climate, with the mountains, rivers, cascades, and views near it. The Mare aux Vacouas and Grand Bassin. State of cultivation and produce of Vacouas; its black ebony, game, and wild fruits; and freedom from noxious insects. [AT MAURITIUS. PORT LOUIS.] AUGUST 1805 My first visit after being liberated from the Garden Prison, wa

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CHAPTER VII.

CHAPTER VII.

Occupations at Vacouas. Hospitality of the inhabitants. Letters from England. Refusal to be sent to France repeated. Account of two hurricanes, of a subterraneous stream and circular pit. Habitation of La Pérouse. Letters to the French marine minister, National Institute, etc. Letters from Sir Edward Pellew. Caverns in the Plains of St. Piérre. Visit to Port Louis. Narrative transmitted to England. Letter to captain Bergeret on his departure for France. [AT MAURITIUS. WILHEMS PLAINS.] SEPTEMBER

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CHAPTER VIII.

CHAPTER VIII.

Effects of repeated disappointment on the mind. Arrival of a cartel, and of letters from India. Letter of the French marine minister. Restitution of papers. Applications for liberty evasively answered. Attempted seizure of private letters. Memorial to the minister. Encroachments made at Paris on the Investigator's discoveries. Expected attack on Mauritius produces an abridgment of Liberty. Strict blockade. Arrival of another cartel from India. State of the public finances in Mauritius. French ca

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CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

A prospect of liberty, which is officially confirmed. Occurrences during eleven weeks residence in the town of Port Louis and on board the Harriet cartel. Parole and certificates. Departure from Port Louis, and embarkation in the Otter. Eulogium on the inhabitants of Mauritius. Review of the conduct of general De Caen. Passage to the Cape of Good Hope, and after seven weeks stay, from thence to England. Conclusion. [AT MAURITIUS. WILHEMS PLAINS.] The French cartel for the Cape of Good Hope had s

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APPENDIX I.

APPENDIX I.

ACCOUNT OF THE OBSERVATIONS BY WHICH THE LONGITUDES OF PLACES ON THE EAST AND NORTH COASTS OF TERRA AUSTRALIS HAVE BEEN SETTLED. In the Appendix to Vol. I. a statement was made of the circumstances under which the observations for settling the longitudes of places on the South Coast were taken; as also of the method used in the calculations, and the corrections applied more than what is usual in the common practice at sea. That statement is equally applicable to the following tables for the East

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APPENDIX II.

APPENDIX II.

ON THE ERRORS OF THE COMPASS ARISING FROM ATTRACTIONS WITHIN THE SHIP, AND OTHERS FROM THE MAGNETISM OF LAND; WITH PRECAUTIONS FOR OBVIATING THEIR EFFECTS IN MARINE SURVEYING. [Not included in this ebook.]...

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APPENDIX III.

APPENDIX III.

GENERAL REMARKS, GEOGRAPHICAL AND SYSTEMATICAL, ON THE BOTANY OF TERRA AUSTRALIS. BY ROBERT BROWN, F. R. S. ACAD. REG. SCIENT. BEROLIN. CORRESP., NATURALIST TO THE VOYAGE. A LIST OF PLANTS NATIVE BOTH OF TERRA AUSTRALIS AND OF EUROPE. DESCRIPTION OF PLANTS FIGURED IN THE ATLAS. [Appendix III. not included in this ebook.]...

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END OF VOLUME II

END OF VOLUME II

Detail from Plate 10 Detail from Plate XVIII. Detail from Plate VII....

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