Alexandria: A History And A Guide
E. M. (Edward Morgan) Forster
20 chapters
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20 chapters
ALEXANDRIA:A HISTORY AND A GUIDE.
ALEXANDRIA:A HISTORY AND A GUIDE.
Vue d’Alexandrie—extraite du IOVRNAL DES VOYAGES DE MONSIEVR DE MONCONYS LYON M DC LXV. See p. 83 If a man make a pilgrimage round Alexandria in the morning, God will make for him a golden crown, set with pearls, perfumed with musk and camphor, and shining from the East to the West. To any vision must be brought an eye adapted to what is to be seen....
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
This book consists of two parts: a History and a Guide. The “History” attempts (after the fashion of a pageant) to marshal the activities of Alexandria during the two thousand two hundred and fifty years of her existence. Starting with the heroic figure of Alexander the Great, it inspects the dynasty of the Ptolemies, and in particular the career of the last of them, Cleopatra; an account of Ptolemaic literature and science follows, and closes this splendid period, to which I have given the titl
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AUTHORITIES.
AUTHORITIES.
There is, so far as I know, no monograph on Alexandria, and though the present little book makes no claim to original research, it has drawn together much information that was hitherto scattered. The following works, among others, have been consulted; those marked with an asterisk are published locally. (A). History :— Ptolemaic Period:— Bouché-Leclercq, Histoire des Lagides . A scholarly and delightful work. 4 vols. Ptolemaic Literature:— A. Couat, La Poésie Alexandrine ; well written. Theocrit
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SECTION I.
SECTION I.
The situation of Alexandria is most curious. To understand it we must go back many thousand years. Ages ago, before there was civilization in Egypt, or the delta of the Nile had been formed, the whole of the country as far south as Cairo lay under the sea. The shores of this sea were a limestone desert. The coastline was smooth as a rule, but at the north-west corner an extraordinary spur jutted out from the main mass. It was not more than a mile wide, but many miles long. Its base is not far fr
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SECTION II.
SECTION II.
Octavian (Augustus) the founder of the Roman Empire, so disliked Alexandria that after his triumph over Cleopatra he founded a town near modern Ramleh—Nicopolis, the “City of Victory.” He also forbade any Roman of the governing classes to enter Egypt without his permission, on the ground that the religious orgies there would corrupt their morals. The true reason was economic. He wanted to keep the Egyptian corn supply in his own hands, and thus control the hungry populace of Rome. Egypt, unlike
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SECTION III.
SECTION III.
When Cleopatra died and Egypt became part of the Roman Empire, it seemed that the career of Alexandria was over. Her life had centred round the Ptolemies who had adorned her with architecture and scholarship and song, and when they were withdrawn what remained? She was just a provincial capital. But the vitality of a city is not thus measured. There is a splendour that kings do not give and cannot take away, and just when she lost her outward independence she was recompensed by discovering the k
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SECTION IV.
SECTION IV.
During the thousand years and more that intervene between the Arab conquest of Egypt and its conquest by Napoleon, the events in the history of Alexandria are geographic rather than political. Neglected by man, the land and the waters altered their positions, and could Alexander the Great have returned he would have failed to recognise the coast. (i) The fundamental change was in the 12th cent., when the Canopic mouth of the Nile silted up. Consequently the fresh water lake of Mariout, being no
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SECTION V.
SECTION V.
On July 1st 1798 the inhabitants of the obscure town saw that the deserted sea was covered with an immense fleet. Three hundred sailing ships came out from the west to anchor off Marabout Island, men disembarked all night and by the middle of next day 5,000 French soldiers under Napoleon had occupied the place. They were part of a larger force, and had come under the pretence of helping Turkey, against whom Egypt was then having one of her feeble and periodic revolts. The future Emperor was stil
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SECTION I.
SECTION I.
Route :—Square, Rue Chérif Pacha, Rue Rosette , leading through the most modern section of the town. No tram line. Chief points of Interest :—Square and Statue of Mohammed Ali; Banco di Roma; Mosque of the Prophet Daniel; St. Saba; Greco-Roman Museum. The Square (officially, Place Mohammed Ali; formerly Place des Consuls ; known to cabmen as “Menschieh” from the adjoining Police Station) was laid out by Mohammed Ali as the centre of his new city. (About 1830; see p. 92 ). In Ptolemaic times the
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SECTION II.
SECTION II.
Route :—By the Rue de France and Rue Ras-el-Tin to Ras-el-Tin promontory; returning to the Square by Anfouchi Bay and the Eastern Harbour—the “Circular” Tram (Green Triangle) runs along the Quays. Chief points of interest :—Terbana and Chorbagi Mosques; Mosque of Abou el Abbas; Anfouchi Catacombs; Ras-el-Tin Palace; Prehistoric Harbour; Fort Kait Bey; New Quays. We start from the north-west corner of the Square. The Rue de France traverses the “Turkish Town” (p. 84 ), which was built in the 17th
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SECTION III.
SECTION III.
Route :—By the Place St. Catherine and Pompey’s Pillar to the Mahmoudieh Canal, taking the Karmous Tram (Green Lozenge). The Ragheb Pasha Tram (Red Crescent) and the Moharrem Bey tram (Red Circle) also go from the Square to the Canal. There is also the “Circular” Tram (Green Triangle) which crosses the three lines just mentioned, on its course from Cairo Railway Station to the Docks. There is a carriage road along the Canal. Chief points of Interest :—Pompey’s Pillar, Kom es Chogafa Catacombs, t
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SECTION IV.
SECTION IV.
Route :—Take Nouzha Tram (green trefoil) at the lower end of the Boulevard Ramleh, just off the Square. The Rond Point Tram (white star) passes through the Square, but does not go further than the Water Works—about half-way to Nouzha. Chief Points of Interest :—Municipal Gardens; Nouzha and Antoniadis Gardens. For the Boulevard Ramleh see Section V. Having traversed it, the tram bears to the right and passes the Alhambra Theatre, the only one in the town—not a bad building.—Just beyond the Theat
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SECTION V.
SECTION V.
Route :—By the Boulevard Ramleh to the Tram Line terminus—10 min. walk. Then take tram with red label to Bulkeley, San Stefano, and Victoria. Tram with blue label goes to San Stefano only, via Bacos. The service is fair. Chief points of Interest :—The Sea; the view from Abou el Nawatir; private gardens; the Spouting Rocks. We start at the north-east corner of the Square, and take the Rue de l’Ancienne Bourse , in which are, right, the Union Club frequented by British, and, left, the former Bours
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SECTION VI.
SECTION VI.
Route :—By the Rue des Soeurs and Gabbari, taking the Mex Tram (White Star). The journey is uncomfortable and uninspiring, but Mex is pleasant. We start from the south side of the Square, down the long Rue des Soeurs , which takes its name from the Roman Catholic Convent and School near its entrance. The surroundings become squalid. Right of Rue des Soeurs :— Rue Behari Bey leads to the mound of Kom-el-Nadoura , which rises abruptly out of mean streets. Its history before the arrival of Napoleon
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SECTION VII.
SECTION VII.
Route :—By train from the Main (Cairo) sta., or from Sidi Gaber, where all trains stop, and which is also a sta. for the Ramleh tram (Section VI). Chief Points of Interest :—Montazah; Canopus; Aboukir Bay; Rosetta. Country Round Alexandria At Sidi Gaber sta. is a view of Lake Hadra on the right.—Five stations on:—Victoria, close to the College and tram terminus.—The train passes over sand and through a palm oasis, which is carpeted with flowers in spring. Mandarah Sta. —One of the houses in the
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Section VIII.
Section VIII.
Routes :—By the Mariout Railway to Bahig for Abousir and for St. Menas; each expedition takes a day. By Railway via Tel-el-Baroud and Khatatbeh to the Wady Natrun; 2 or 3 days. Alexandria, though so cosmopolitan, lies on the verge of civilisation. Westward begins an enormous desert of limestone that stretches into the heart of Africa. The very existence of this desert is forgotten by most of the dwellers in the city, but it has played a great part in her history, especially in Christian times, a
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Appendix I. THE MODERN RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES.
Appendix I. THE MODERN RELIGIOUS COMMUNITIES.
The ecclesiastical life of Alexandria is not as intense to-day as in the days of St. Athanasius, but it is even more complicated. The city is the seat of four patriarchates, and many other religious bodies are represented in her. The complications are partly due to the activity of Roman Catholicism, which, in order to win oriental schismatics back to the fold, has in each case created a counter church that shall approximate as nearly as possible to the conditions and ritual that are familiar— e.
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Appendix II. THE DEATH OF CLEOPATRA (p. 27).
Appendix II. THE DEATH OF CLEOPATRA (p. 27).
The death of Cleopatra as described by Plutarch took hold of the imagination of posterity, and was dramatised by Shakespeare and by Dryden. (i). Plutarch. (in North’s Translation which Shakespeare used). Her death was very sodain. For those whom Caesar sent unto her ran thither in all haste possible, and found the soldiers standing at the gate, mistrusting nothing, nor understanding of her death. But when they had opened the doors, they found Cleopatra stark dead, laid upon a bed of gold, attire
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Appendix III. THE UNCANONICAL GOSPELS OF EGYPT. (p. 73).
Appendix III. THE UNCANONICAL GOSPELS OF EGYPT. (p. 73).
(i). From the Gospel according to the Egyptians. The Lord said unto Salome, who asked how long death would prevail, “As long as ye women bear children. I have come to undo the work of woman.” And Salome said “Then have I done well in that I have not born children.” The Lord answered and said “Eat every plant, but that which has bitterness eat not.” When Salome asked when would be known the things about which he spake ( i.e. the Last Judgement) the Lord said “Whenever ye put off the garment of sh
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Appendix IV. THE NICENE CREED. (pp. 49 and 75).
Appendix IV. THE NICENE CREED. (pp. 49 and 75).
Here is the text as originally passed by the Council, including the paragraph against the Arians; additions to the original texts are enclosed within brackets. We believe in one God, the Father Almighty, maker of all things, both visible and invisible. And in one Lord, Jesus Christ, the Son of God, begotten of the Father (only begotten, that is to say of the substance of the Father) God of God and Light of Light, very God of very God, begotten, not made, being of one substance with the Father, b
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