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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Gerald the Welshman —Giraldus Cambrensis—was born, probably in 1147, at Manorbier Castle in the county of Pembroke. His father was a Norman noble, William de Barri, who took his name from the little island of Barry off the coast of Glamorgan. His mother, Angharad, was the daughter of Gerald de Windsor [0a] by his wife, the famous Princess Nesta, the “Helen of Wales,” and the daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr Mawr, the last independent Prince of South Wales. Gerald was therefore born to romance and ad
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FIRST PREFACE TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY
FIRST PREFACE TO STEPHEN LANGTON, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY
As the times are affected by the changes of circumstances, so are the minds of men influenced by different manners and customs. The satirist [Persius] exclaims, “Mille hominum species et mentis discolor usus; Velle suum cuique est, nec voto vivitur uno.” “Nature is ever various in her name; Each has a different will, and few the same.” The comic poet also says, “ Quot capita tot sententiæ , suus cuique mos est .” “As many men, so many minds, each has his way.” Young soldiers exult in war, and
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SECOND PREFACE TO THE SAME PRELATE
SECOND PREFACE TO THE SAME PRELATE
Since those things, which are known to have been done through a laudable devotion, are not unworthily extolled with due praises; and since the mind, when relaxed, loses its energy, and the torpor of sloth enervates the understanding, as iron acquires rust for want of use, and stagnant waters become foul; lest my pen should be injured by the rust of idleness, I have thought good to commit to writing the devout visitation which Baldwin, archbishop of Canterbury, made throughout Wales; and to hand
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CHAPTER I JOURNEY THROUGH HEREFORD AND RADNOR
CHAPTER I JOURNEY THROUGH HEREFORD AND RADNOR
In the year 1188 from the incarnation of our Lord, Urban the Third [11] being the head of the apostolic see; Frederick, emperor of Germany and king of the Romans; Isaac, emperor of Constantinople; Philip, the son of Louis, reigning in France; Henry the Second in England; William in Sicily; Bela in Hungary; and Guy in Palestine: in that very year, when Saladin, prince of the Egyptians and Damascenes, by a signal victory gained possession of the kingdom of Jerusalem; Baldwin, archbishop of Canterb
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CHAPTER II JOURNEY THROUGH HAY AND BRECHEINIA
CHAPTER II JOURNEY THROUGH HAY AND BRECHEINIA
Having crossed the river Wye, we proceeded towards Brecheinoc, and on preaching a sermon at Hay, [18a] we observed some amongst the multitude, who were to be signed with the cross (leaving their garments in the hands of their friends or wives, who endeavoured to keep them back), fly for refuge to the archbishop in the castle. Early in the morning we began our journey to Aberhodni, and the word of the Lord being preached at Landeu, [18b] we there spent the night. The castle and chief town of th
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CHAPTER IV THE JOURNEY BY COED GRONO AND ABERGEVENNI
CHAPTER IV THE JOURNEY BY COED GRONO AND ABERGEVENNI
From thence [44b] we proceeded through the narrow, woody tract called the bad pass of Coed Grono, leaving the noble monastery of Lanthoni, inclosed by its mountains, on our left. The castle of Abergevenni is so called from its situation at the confluence of the river Gevenni with the Usk. It happened a short time after the death of king Henry I., that Richard de Clare, a nobleman of high birth, and lord of Cardiganshire, passed this way on his journey from England into Wales, accompanied by Bri
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CHAPTER V OF THE PROGRESS BY THE CASTLE OF USK AND THE TOWN OF CAERLEON
CHAPTER V OF THE PROGRESS BY THE CASTLE OF USK AND THE TOWN OF CAERLEON
At the castle of Usk, a multitude of persons influenced by the archbishop’s sermon, and by the exhortations of the good and worthy William bishop of Landaf, [50a] who faithfully accompanied us through his diocese, were signed with the cross; Alexander archdeacon of Bangor [50b] acting as interpreter to the Welsh. It is remarkable that many of the most notorious murderers, thieves, and robbers of the neighbourhood were here converted, to the astonishment of the spectators. Passing from thence t
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CHAPTER VI NEWPORT AND CAERDYF
CHAPTER VI NEWPORT AND CAERDYF
At Newport, where the river Usk, descending from its original source in Cantref Bachan, falls into the sea, many persons were induced to take the cross. Having passed the river Remni, we approached the noble castle of Caerdyf, [56a] situated on the banks of the river Taf. In the neighbourhood of Newport, which is in the district of Gwentluc, [56b] there is a small stream called Nant Pencarn, [56c] passable only at certain fords, not so much owing to the depth of its waters, as from the hollown
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CHAPTER VII THE SEE OF LANDAF AND MONASTERY OF MARGAN, AND THE REMARKABLE THINGS IN THOSE PARTS
CHAPTER VII THE SEE OF LANDAF AND MONASTERY OF MARGAN, AND THE REMARKABLE THINGS IN THOSE PARTS
On the following morning, the business of the cross being publicly proclaimed at Landaf, the English standing on one side, and the Welsh on the other, many persons of each nation took the cross, and we remained there that night with William bishop of that place, [61a] a discreet and good man. The word Landaf [61b] signifies the church situated upon the river Taf, and is now called the church of St. Teileau, formerly bishop of that see. The archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning
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CHAPTER VIII PASSAGE OF THE RIVERS AVON AND NETH—AND OF ABERTAWE AND GOER
CHAPTER VIII PASSAGE OF THE RIVERS AVON AND NETH—AND OF ABERTAWE AND GOER
Continuing our journey, [65] not far from Margan, where the alternate vicissitudes of a sandy shore and the tide commence, we forded over the river Avon, having been considerably delayed by the ebbing of the sea; and under the guidance of Morgan, eldest son of Caradoc, proceeded along the sea-shore towards the river Neth, which, on account of its quicksands, is the most dangerous and inaccessible river in South Wales. A pack-horse belonging to the author, which had proceeded by the lower way ne
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CHAPTER IX PASSAGE OVER THE RIVERS LOCHOR AND WENDRAETH; AND OF CYDWELI
CHAPTER IX PASSAGE OVER THE RIVERS LOCHOR AND WENDRAETH; AND OF CYDWELI
Thence we proceeded towards the river Lochor, [71a] through the plains in which Howel, son of Meredyth of Brecheinoc, after the decease of king Henry I., gained a signal victory over the English. Having first crossed the river Lochor, and afterwards the water called Wendraeth, [71b] we arrived at the castle of Cydweli. [71c] In this district, after the death of king Henry, whilst Gruffydd son of Rhys, the prince of South Wales, was engaged in soliciting assistance from North Wales, his wife G
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CHAPTER X TYWY RIVER—CAERMARDYN—MONASTERY OF ALBELANDE
CHAPTER X TYWY RIVER—CAERMARDYN—MONASTERY OF ALBELANDE
Having crossed the river Tywy in a boat, we proceeded towards Caermardyn, leaving Lanstephan and Talachar [73a] on the sea-coast to our left. After the death of king Henry II., Rhys, the son of Gruffydd, took these two castles by assault; then, having laid waste, by fire and sword, the provinces of Penbroch and Ros, he besieged Caermardyn, but failed in his attempt. Caermardyn [73b] signifies the city of Merlin, because, according to the British History, he was there said to have been begotten
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CHAPTER XI OF HAVERFORD AND ROS
CHAPTER XI OF HAVERFORD AND ROS
A sermon having been delivered at Haverford [76c] by the archbishop, and the word of God preached to the people by the archdeacon, whose name appears on the title-page of this work, many soldiers and plebeians were induced to take the cross. It appeared wonderful and miraculous, that, although the archdeacon addressed them both in the Latin and French tongues, those persons who understood neither of those languages were equally affected, and flocked in great numbers to the cross. An old woman o
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CHAPTER XII OF PENBROCH
CHAPTER XII OF PENBROCH
The province of Penbroch adjoins the southern part of the territory of Ros, and is separated from it by an arm of the sea. Its principal city, and the metropolis of Demetia, is situated on an oblong rocky eminence, extending with two branches from Milford Haven, from whence it derived the name of Penbroch, which signifies the head of the æstuary. Arnulph de Montgomery, [82a] in the reign of king Henry I., erected here a slender fortress with stakes and turf, which, on returning to England, he
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CHAPTER XIII OF THE PROGRESS BY CAMROS AND NIWEGAL
CHAPTER XIII OF THE PROGRESS BY CAMROS AND NIWEGAL
From Haverford we proceeded on our journey to Menevia, distant from thence about twelve miles, and passed through Camros, [91a] where, in the reign of king Stephen, the relations and friends of a distinguished young man, Giraldus, son of William, revenged his death by a too severe retaliation on the men of Ros. We then passed over Niwegal sands, at which place (during the winter that king Henry II. spent in Ireland), as well as in almost all the other western ports, a very remarkable circumstan
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PREFACE
PREFACE
Since , therefore, St. David’s is the head, and in times past was the metropolitan, city of Wales, though now, alas! retaining more of the name than of the omen , [94] yet I have not forborne to weep over the obsequies of our ancient and undoubted mother, to follow the mournful hearse, and to deplore with tearful sighs the ashes of our half-buried matron. I shall, therefore, endeavour briefly to declare to you in what manner, from whence, and from what period the pall was first brought to St. D
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CHAPTER I OF THE SEE OF SAINT DAVID’S
CHAPTER I OF THE SEE OF SAINT DAVID’S
We are informed by the British histories, that Dubricius, archbishop of Caerleon, sensible of the infirmities of age, or rather being desirous of leading a life of contemplation, resigned his honours to David, who is said to have been uncle to king Arthur; and by his interest the see was translated to Menevia, although Caerleon, as we have observed in the first book, was much better adapted for the episcopal see. For Menevia is situated in a most remote corner of land upon the Irish ocean, the
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CHAPTER II OF THE JOURNEY BY CEMMEIS—THE MONASTERY OF ST. DOGMAEL
CHAPTER II OF THE JOURNEY BY CEMMEIS—THE MONASTERY OF ST. DOGMAEL
The archbishop having celebrated mass early in the morning before the high altar of the church of St. David, and enjoined to the archdeacon (Giraldus) the office of preaching to the people, hastened through Cemmeis [102a] to meet prince Rhys at Aberteive. [102b] Two circumstances occurred in the province of Cemmeis, the one in our own time, the other a little before, which I think right not to pass over in silence. In our time, a young man, native of this country, during a severe illness, suf
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CHAPTER III OF THE RIVER TEIVI, CARDIGAN, AND EMELYN
CHAPTER III OF THE RIVER TEIVI, CARDIGAN, AND EMELYN
The noble river Teivi flows here, and abounds with the finest salmon, more than any other river of Wales; it has a productive fishery near Cilgerran, which is situated on the summit of a rock, at a place called Canarch Mawr, [105b] the ancient residence of St. Ludoc, where the river, falling from a great height, forms a cataract, which the salmon ascend, by leaping from the bottom to the top of a rock, which is about the height of the longest spear, and would appear wonderful, were it not the na
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CHAPTER IV OF THE JOURNEY BY PONT STEPHEN, THE ABBEY OF STRATFLUR, LANDEWI BREVI, AND LHANPADARN VAWR
CHAPTER IV OF THE JOURNEY BY PONT STEPHEN, THE ABBEY OF STRATFLUR, LANDEWI BREVI, AND LHANPADARN VAWR
A sermon having been preached on the following morning at Pont Stephen, [109c] by the archbishop and archdeacon, and also by two abbots of the Cistercian order, John of Albadomus, and Sisillus of Stratflur, [109d] who faithfully attended us in those parts, and as far as North Wales, many persons were induced to take the cross. We proceeded to Stratflur, where we passed the night. On the following morning, having on our right the lofty mountains of Moruge, which in Welsh are called Ellennith, [
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CHAPTER V OF THE RIVER DEVI, AND THE LAND OF THE SONS OF CONAN
CHAPTER V OF THE RIVER DEVI, AND THE LAND OF THE SONS OF CONAN
Approaching to the river Devi, [113a] which divides North and South Wales, the bishop of St. David’s, and Rhys the son of Gruffydd, who with a liberality peculiarly praiseworthy in so illustrious a prince, had accompanied us from the castle of Aberteivi, throughout all Cardiganshire, to this place, returned home. Having crossed the river in a boat, and quitted the diocese of St. David’s, we entered the land of the sons of Conan, or Merionyth, the first province of Venedotia on that side of the
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CHAPTER VI PASSAGE OF TRAETH MAWR AND TRAETH BACHAN, AND OF NEVYN, CARNARVON, AND BANGOR
CHAPTER VI PASSAGE OF TRAETH MAWR AND TRAETH BACHAN, AND OF NEVYN, CARNARVON, AND BANGOR
We continued our journey over the Traeth Mawr, [115a] and Traeth Bachan, [115b] that is, the greater and the smaller arm of the sea, where two stone castles have newly been erected; one called Deudraeth, belonging to the sons of Conan, situated in Evionyth, towards the northern mountains; the other named Carn Madryn, the property of the sons of Owen, built on the other side of the river towards the sea, on the head-land Lleyn. [115c] Traeth, in the Welsh language, signifies a tract of sand flo
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CHAPTER VII THE ISLAND OF MONA
CHAPTER VII THE ISLAND OF MONA
From hence, we crossed over a small arm of the sea to the island of Mona, [118b] distant from thence about two miles, where Roderic, the younger son of Owen, attended by nearly all the inhabitants of the island, and many others from the adjacent countries, came in a devout manner to meet us. Confession having been made in a place near the shore, where the surrounding rocks seemed to form a natural theatre, [118c] many persons were induced to take the cross, by the persuasive discourses of the a
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CHAPTER VIII PASSAGE OF THE RIVER CONWY IN A BOAT, AND OF DINAS EMRYS
CHAPTER VIII PASSAGE OF THE RIVER CONWY IN A BOAT, AND OF DINAS EMRYS
On our return to Banchor from Mona, we were shown the tombs of prince Owen and his younger brother Cadwalader, [125a] who were buried in a double vault before the high altar, although Owen, on account of his public incest with his cousin-german, had died excommunicated by the blessed martyr St. Thomas, the bishop of that see having been enjoined to seize a proper opportunity of removing his body from the church. We continued our journey on the sea coast, confined on one side by steep rocks, and
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CHAPTER IX OF THE MOUNTAINS OF ERYRI
CHAPTER IX OF THE MOUNTAINS OF ERYRI
I must not pass over in silence the mountains called by the Welsh Eryri, but by the English Snowdon, or Mountains of Snow, which gradually increasing from the land of the sons of Conan, and extending themselves northwards near Deganwy, seem to rear their lofty summits even to the clouds, when viewed from the opposite coast of Anglesey. They are said to be of so great an extent, that according to an ancient proverb, “As Mona could supply corn for all the inhabitants of Wales, so could the Eryri
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CHAPTER X OF THE PASSAGE BY DEGANWY AND RUTHLAN, AND THE SEE OF LANELWY, AND OF COLESHULLE
CHAPTER X OF THE PASSAGE BY DEGANWY AND RUTHLAN, AND THE SEE OF LANELWY, AND OF COLESHULLE
Having crossed the river Conwy, [128a] or rather an arm of the sea, under Deganwy, leaving the Cistercian monastery of Conwy [128b] on the western bank of the river to our right hand, we arrived at Ruthlan, a noble castle on the river Cloyd, belonging to David, the eldest son of Owen [129a] where, at the earnest invitation of David himself, we were handsomely entertained that night. There is a spring not far from Ruthlan, in the province of Tegengel, [129b] which not only regularly ebbs and flow
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CHAPTER XI OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF CHESTER
CHAPTER XI OF THE PASSAGE OF THE RIVER DEE, AND OF CHESTER
Having crossed the river Dee below Chester, (which the Welsh call Doverdwy), on the third day before Easter, or the day of absolution (holy Thursday), we reached Chester. As the river Wye towards the south separates Wales from England, so the Dee near Chester forms the northern boundary. The inhabitants of these parts assert, that the waters of this river change their fords every month, and, as it inclines more towards England or Wales, they can, with certainty, prognosticate which nation will
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CHAPTER XII OF THE JOURNEY BY THE WHITE MONASTERY, OSWALDESTREE, POWYS, AND SHREWSBURY
CHAPTER XII OF THE JOURNEY BY THE WHITE MONASTERY, OSWALDESTREE, POWYS, AND SHREWSBURY
The feast of Easter having been observed with due solemnity, and many persons, by the exhortations of the archbishop, signed with the cross, we directed our way from Chester to the White Monastery, [133a] and from thence towards Oswaldestree; where, on the very borders of Powys, we were met by Gruffydd son of Madoc, and Elissa, princes of that country, and many others; some few of whom having been persuaded to take the cross (for several of the multitude had been previously signed by Reiner, [13
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CHAPTER XIII OF THE JOURNEY BY WENLOCH, BRUMFELD, THE CASTLE OF LUDLOW, AND LEOMINSTER, TO HEREFORD
CHAPTER XIII OF THE JOURNEY BY WENLOCH, BRUMFELD, THE CASTLE OF LUDLOW, AND LEOMINSTER, TO HEREFORD
From Shrewsbury, we continued our journey towards Wenloch, by a narrow and rugged way, called Evil-street, where, in our time, a Jew, travelling with the archdeacon of the place, whose name was Sin ( Peccatum ), and the dean, whose name was Devil, towards Shrewsbury, hearing the archdeacon say, that his archdeaconry began at a place called Evil-street, and extended as far as Mal-pas, towards Chester, pleasantly told them, “It would be a miracle, if his fate brought him safe out of a country, who
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CHAPTER XIV A DESCRIPTION OF BALDWIN, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY [139]
CHAPTER XIV A DESCRIPTION OF BALDWIN, ARCHBISHOP OF CANTERBURY [139]
Let it not be thought superfluous to describe the exterior and inward qualities of that person, the particulars of whose embassy, and as it were holy peregrination, we have briefly and succinctly related. He was a man of a dark complexion, of an open and venerable countenance, of a moderate stature, a good person, and rather inclined to be thin than corpulent. He was a modest and grave man, of so great abstinence and continence, that ill report scarcely ever presumed to say any thing against h
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