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POPULAR WORKS
POPULAR WORKS
Captain Glazier's works are growing more and more popular every day. Their delineations of social , military and frontier life, constantly varying scenes, and deeply interesting stories, combine to place their writer in the front rank of American authors....
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
It was the intention of the writer to publish a narrative descriptive of his overland tour from the Atlantic to the Pacific soon after returning from California in 1876, and his excuse for the delay in publication is that a variety of circumstances compelled him to postpone for a time the duty of arranging the contents of his journal until other pressing matters had been satisfactorily attended to. Again, considerable unfinished literary work, set aside when he began preparation for crossing the
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Boyhood Longings—Confronted by Obstacles—Trapping Along the Oswegatchie—Enter Gouverneur Wesleyan Seminary—Appointed to State Normal College—Straitened Circumstances—Teach School in Rensselaer County—War of the Rebellion—Enlist in a Cavalry Regiment—Taken Prisoner—Fourteen Months in Southern Prisons—Escape from Columbia—Recaptured—Escape from Sylvania, Georgia—Re-enter the Army—Close of the War—Publish "Capture, Prison-Pen and Escape" and Other Books—Decide to Cross the Continent—Preparation for
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Subject of Lecture—Objects Contemplated—Grand Army of the Republic—Introduction by Captain Theodore L. Kelly—Reference to Army and Prison Experiences—Newspaper Comment—Proceeds of Lecture Given to Posts 7 and 15—Letter to Adjutant-General of Department 70...
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
First Day of Journey—Start from the Revere House—Escorted to Brighton by G. A. R. Comrades—Dinner at Cattle Fair Hotel—South Framingham— Second Day —Boston and Albany Turnpike—Riding in a Rain-storm—Arrival at Worcester—Lecture in Opera House—Pioneer History—Rapid Growth of Worcester—Lincoln Park—The Old Common— Third and Fourth Days —The Ride to Springfield—Met by Wife and Daughter—Lecture at Haynes Opera House— Fifth Day —Ride to Russell—The Berkshire Hills— Sixth Day —Journey to Becket—Rainbo
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Nassau to Albany—Among Old Friends in Rensselaer County—Thoughts of Rip Van Winkle—Crossing the Hudson—Albany as Seen from the River—Schoolday Associations—Early History—Settled by the Dutch—Henry Hudson—Killian Van Rensselaer—Fort Orange—Peter Schuyler and Robert Livingstone—Lecture at Tweddle Hall—Call at the Capitol—Meet Army Comrades. 110...
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Fourteenth Day —On the Schenectady Turnpike—Riding between Showers—Talk with Peter Lansing—Reach Schenectady—Lecture at Union Hall under G. A. R. Auspices— Fifteenth and Sixteenth Days —Go over to Troy—Lecture at Harmony Hall—Visit Old Friends— Seventeenth Day —Return to Schenectady— Eighteenth Day —In the Mohawk Valley—Halt at Amsterdam—Reach Fonda— Nineteenth Day —Saint Johnsville— Twentieth Day —Little Falls— Twenty-first Day —Utica— Twenty-second Day —Rome— Twenty-third Day —Chittenango 118.
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Walks and Talks with the People—Early History—Lake Onondaga—Father Le Moyne—Discovery of Salt Springs—Major Danforth—Joshua Forman—James Geddes—The Erie Canal—Visit of La Fayette—Syracuse University—Lecture at Shakespeare Hall. 132...
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Twenty-sixth Day —Grand Army Friends—General Sniper—Captain Auer—Stopped by a Thunder-shower—An Unpleasant Predicament— Twenty-Seventh Day —Jordan, New York—Lake Skaneateles— Twenty-eighth Day —Photographed—Entertained at Port Byron—Montezuma Swamp— Twenty-ninth Day —Newark, New York—Journey Continued Along the New York Central Railway—Another Adventure with Paul — Thirtieth Day —Fairport—Riding in the Cool of the Day 141...
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Rainstorm Anticipated—Friends of the Horse—Seven-Sealed Wonder—Newspaper Controversy—Lecture at Corinthian Hall—Colonel J. A. Reynolds—Pioneer History—Colonel Nathaniel Rochester—William Fitzhugh—Charles Carroll—Rapid Growth of City—Sam Patch—Genesee Falls—The Erie Canal—Mount Hope—Lake Ontario—Fruit Nurseries 147...
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Thirty-fifth Day —Churchville—Cordiality of the People—Dinner at Chili— Thirty-sixth Day —Bergen Corners—Byron Centre—Rev. Edwin Allen— Thirty-seventh Day —Batavia—Meet a Comrade of the Harris Light Cavalry— Thirty-eighth Day —"Croft's"—More Trouble with Mosquitoes—Amusing Episode— Thirty-ninth Day —Crittenden—Rural Reminiscences— Fortieth Day —Lancaster—Lectured in Methodist Church—Captain Remington 158...
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
"Queen City" of the Lakes—Arrival at the Tift House—Lecture at St. James Hall—Major Farquhar—Aboriginal History—The Eries—Iroquois—"Cats"—La Hontan—Lake Erie—Black Rock—War of 1812—The Erie Canal—Buffalo River—Grosvenor Library—Historical Society—Red Jacket—Forest Lawn—Predictions for the Future 171...
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Forty-fourth Day —On the Shore of Lake Erie— Forty-fifth Day —Again on the Shore of Erie—Bracing Air—Enchanting Scenery—Angola—Big Sister Creek— Forty-sixth Day —Angola to Dunkirk— Forty-eighth Day —Dunkirk to Westfield—Fruit and Vegetable Farms—Fredonia— Forty-ninth Day —Westfield to North East—Cordial Reception— Fiftieth Day —North East to Erie—Oliver Hazzard Perry— Fifty-first Day —Erie to Swanville— Fifty-second Day —Talk with Early Settlers—John Joseph Swan— Fifty-third Day —Swanville to Gi
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
An Early Start—School Girls—"Do you Like Apples, Mister?"—Mentor—Home of Garfield—Dismount at Euclid—Rumors of the Custer Massacre—Reach the "Forest City"—Met by Comrades of the G. A. R.—Lecture at Garrett Hall—Lake Erie—Cuyahoga River—Early History—Moses Cleveland—Connecticut Land Company—Job Stiles—The Ohio Canal—God of Lake Erie—"Ohio City"—West Side Boat Building—"The Pilot"—Levi Johnson-Visit of Lorenzo Dow—Monument Square—Commodore Perry—Public Buildings—Euclid Avenue—"The Flats"—Standard
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
Sixty-first Day —Again in the Saddle—Call on Major Hessler—Donate Proceeds of Lecture to Soldiers' Monument Fund—Letters from General James Barnett and Rev. William Earnshaw—Stop for Night at Black River— Sixty-second Day —Mounted at Nine A.M.—Halted at Vermillion for Dinner—Lake Shore Road—More Mosquitoes—Reach Huron Late at Night— Sixty-third Day —Huron to Sandusky—Traces of the Red Man—Ottawas and Wyandots—Johnson's Island—Lecture in Union Hall—Captain Culver— Sixty-fourth Day —Ride to Castal
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
Ride from Elmore—Lecture at Lyceum Hall—Forsyth Post, G. A. R.—Doctor J. T. Woods—Concerning General Custer—Pioneer History—Battle of Fallen Timbers—Mad Anthony Wayne—Miami and Wabash Indians—The Toledo War—Unpleasant Complications—Governor Lucas—Strategy of General Vanfleet— Milbourn Wagon Works—Visited by a Detroit Friend 231...
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
Seventy-second Day —Leave Toledo—Change of Route—Ride to Erie, Michigan— Paul Shows His Mettle— Seventy-third Day —Sunday —Go to Church—Rev. E. P. Willard—Solicitude of Friends— Seventy-fourth Day —Ride to Monroe—Greeted with Music—Hail Columbia—Star-Spangled Banner—Home of Custer—Meet Custer Family—Custer Monument Association—Received at City Hall—Great Enthusiasm—River Rasin—Indian Massacre—General Winchester— Battle of the Thames—Death of Tecumseh—Monroe Monitor — Seventy-seventh Day —Lecture
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
Leave Ecorse—Met at Fort Wayne—Sad News—Reach Detroit— Met by General Throop and Others—at Russell House—Lecture at St. Andrew's Hall—General Trowbridge—Meet Captain Hampton—Army and Prison Reminiscences—Pioneer History of Detroit— La Motte Cadillac—Miamies and Pottawattomies—Fort Ponchartrain— Plot of Pontiac—Major Gladwyn—Fort Shelby—War of 1812—General Brock and Tecumseh Advance on Detroit—Surrender of General Hull—British Compelled to Evacuate 265...
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Eighty-fifth Day —Leave Detroit Reluctantly— Paul in Good Spirits —Reach Inkster— Eighty-sixth Day —Lowering Clouds—Take Shelter under Trees and in a Woodshed—Meet War Veterans — Ypsilanti— Eighty-seventh Day —Lecture at Union Hall—Incidents of the Late War— Eighty-eighth Day —An Early Start—Ann Arbor —Michigan University—Dinner at Dexter— Eighty-ninth Day —Dinner at Grass Lake—Reach Jackson— Ninetieth Day —Comment of Jackson Citizen —Coal Fields—Grand River— Ninety-first Day —A Circus in Town—P
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CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
Register at the Grand Pacific Hotel—Lecture at Farwell Hall—Visit McVicker's Theatre—See John T. Raymond in "Mulberry Sellers"—The Chicago Exposition—Site of City—Origin of Name—Father Marquette—First Dwelling—Death of Marquette—Lake Michigan—Fort Dearborn—First Settlement Destroyed by Indians—Chicago as a Commercial City—The Great Fire—An Unparalleled Conflagration—Rises from her Ashes—Financial Reorganization—Greater than Before—Schools and Colleges—Historical Society—The Palmer House—Spirit o
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CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER XX.
One Hundred and Thirtieth Day —Followed by Prairie Wolves—Reach Joliet, Illinois—Lecture at Werner Hall— One Hundred and Thirty-first Day —Ride on Tow Path of Michigan Canal—Morris— One Hundred and Thirty-second Day —Corn and Hogs—Arrive at Ottawa— One Hundred and Thirty-third Day —Reach La Salle— One Hundred and Thirty-fourth Day —Colonel Stephens— One Hundred and Thirty-fifth Day —Visit Peru— One Hundred and Thirty-sixth Day —Mistaken for a Highwayman— One Hundred and Thirty-seventh Day —Fine
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CHAPTER XXI.
CHAPTER XXI.
Cross the Mississippi—Lecture at Moore's Hall—Colonel Russell—General Sanders—Early History of the City—Colonel George Davenport—Antoine Le Claire—Griswold College—Rock Island—Fort Armstrong—Rock Island Arsenal—General Rodman—Colonel Flagler—Rock Island City—Sac and Fox Indians—Black Hawk War—Jefferson Davis—Abraham Lincoln—Defeat of Black Hawk—Rock River—Indian Legends 372...
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CHAPTER XXII.
CHAPTER XXII.
One Hundred and Forty-fifth Day —Leave Davenport—Stop over Night at Farm House— One Hundred and Forty-sixth Day —Reach Moscow, Iowa—Rolling Prairies— One Hundred and Forty-seventh Day —Weather Cold and Stormy—Iowa City— One Hundred and Forty-eighth Day —Description of City— One Hundred and Forty-ninth Day —Lectured at Ham's Hall—Hon. G. B. Edmunds— One Hundred and Fiftieth Day —Reach Tiffin—Guests of the Tiffin House— One Hundred and Fifty-first Day —Marengo— One Hundred and Fifty-second Day —Ha
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CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAPTER XXIII.
One Hundred and Fifty-seventh Day —Leave Des Moines with Pleasant Reflections—Reach Adel—Dallas County—Raccoon River— One Hundred and Fifty-eighth Day —Ride through Redfield—Reach Dale City—Talk Politics with Farmers— One Hundred and Fifty-ninth Day —A Night with Coyotes—Re-enforced by a Friendly Dog— One Hundred and Sixtieth Day —Cold Winds from the Northwest—All Day on the Prairies— One Hundred and Sixty-first Day —Halt at Avoca— One Hundred and Sixty-second Day —Riding in the Rain—Reach Neola
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CHAPTER XXIV.
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Metropolis of Nebraska—First Impressions—Peculiarity of the Streets—Hanscom Park—Poor House Farm—Prospect Cemetery—Douglas County Fair Grounds—Omaha Driving Park—Fort Omaha—Creighton College—Father Marquette—The Mormons—"Winter Quarters"—Lone Tree Ferry—Nebraska Ferry Company—Old State House—First Territorial Legislature—Governor Cummings—Omaha in the Civil War—Rapid Development of the "Gate City" 409...
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CHAPTER XXV.
CHAPTER XXV.
Leave Paul in Omaha—Purchase a Mustang—Use Mexican Saddle—Over the Great Plains—Surface of Nebraska—Extensive Beds of Peat—Salt Basins—The Platte River—High Winds—Dry Climate—Fertile Soil—Lincoln—Nebraska City—Fremont—Grand Island—Plum Creek—McPherson—Sheep Raising—Elk Horn River—In Wyoming Territory—Reach Cheyenne—Description of Wyoming "Magic City"—Vigilance Committee—Rocky Mountains—Laramie Plains—Union Pacific Railroad 420...
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CHAPTER XXVI.
CHAPTER XXVI.
Leave Cheyenne—Arrange to Journey with Herders—Additional Notes on Territory—Yellowstone National Park—Sherman—Skull Rocks—Laramie Plains—Encounter Indians—Friendly Signals—Surrounded by Arrapahoes—One Indian Killed—Taken Prisoners—Carried toward Deadwood—Indians Propose to Kill their Captives—Herder Tortured at the Stake—Move toward Black Hills—Escape from Guards—Pursued by the Arrapahoes—Take Refuge in a Gulch—Reach a Cattle Ranch—Secure a Mustang and Continue Journey 435...
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CHAPTER XXVII.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Ride Across Utah—Chief Occupation of the People—Description of Territory—Great Salt Lake—Mormon Settlements—Brigham Young—Peculiar Views of the Latter Day Saints—"Celestial Marriages"—Joseph Smith, the Founder of Mormonism—The Book of Mormon—City of Ogden—Pioneer History—Peter Skeen Ogden—Weber and Ogden Rivers—Heber C. Kimball—Echo Canyon—Enterprise of the Mormons—Rapid Development of the Territory 446...
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CHAPTER XXVIII.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
The Word Sierra—At Kelton, Utah—Ride to Terrace—Wells, Nevada—The Sierra Nevada—Lake Tahoe—Silver Mines—The Comstock Lode—Stock Raising—Camp Halleck—Humboldt River—Mineral Springs—Reach Palisade—Reese River Mountain—Golconda—Winnemucca—Lovelocks—Wadsworth—Cross Truckee River—In California 458...
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CHAPTER XXIX.
CHAPTER XXIX.
Colfax—Auburn—Summit—Reach Sacramento—California Boundaries—Pacific Ocean—Coast Range Mountains—The Sacramento Valley—Inhabitants of California—John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—A Saw-mill—James Wilson Marshall—Discovery of Gold—"Boys, I believe I have found a Gold Mine"—The Secret Out—First Days of Sacramento—A "City of Tents"—Capital of California 465...
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CHAPTER XXX.
CHAPTER XXX.
Metropolis of the Pacific Coast—Largest Gold Fields in the World—The Jesuits—Captain Sutter—Argonauts of "49"—Great Excitement—Discovery of Upper California—Sir Francis Drake—John P. Lease—The Founding of San Francisco—The "Golden Age"—Story of Kit Carson—The Golden Gate—San Francisco Deserted—The Cholera Plague—California Admitted to the Union—Crandall's Stage—Wonderful Development of San Francisco—United States Mint—Handsome Buildings—Trade with China, Japan, India and Australia—Go Out to the
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INTRODUCTORY.
INTRODUCTORY.
From earliest boyhood it had been my earnest desire to see and learn from personal observation all that was possible of the wonderful land of my birth. Passing from the schoolroom to the War of the Rebellion and thence back to the employments of peace, the old longing to make a series of journeys over the American Continent again took possession of me and was the controlling incentive of all my ambitions and struggles for many years. To see New England—the home of my ancestors; to visit the Midd
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BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS.
BOSTON AND ITS ENVIRONS.
The month of April, 1876, found myself and horse fully equipped and ready to leave Boston, but I will not ride away from the metropolis of New England without some reference to its early history and remarkable development, nor without telling the reader of my lecture at Tremont Temple and other contemplated lectures in the leading cities and towns along my route. Boston, standing on her three hills with the torch of learning in her hand for the illumination of North, South, East and West, is not
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LECTURE AT TREMONT TEMPLE.
LECTURE AT TREMONT TEMPLE.
Lecturing in the towns I purposed visiting was an after consideration of secondary importance—a sort of adjunct to the journey and the objects I had in view. It was thought that it might afford some facilities for meeting large numbers of people face to face in the different sections of the country through which I designed to pass, and thus enable me the better to learn something of their social customs, industries and general progress in the arts of civilization. The subject decided upon for th
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BOSTON TO ALBANY.
BOSTON TO ALBANY.
The initial step in my journey from Ocean to Ocean was taken at ten o'clock on the morning of the above date when I mounted my horse in front of the Revere House, Boston, and started for Worcester, where it had been announced I would lecture on the following evening. The Revere House was fixed upon by comrades of the G. A. R. as a rendezvous before starting. Here I found a large gathering of the Order. A rain storm setting in as I put my foot into the stirrup, hasty adieus were said to the Boys
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FOUR DAYS AT ALBANY.
FOUR DAYS AT ALBANY.
Started from Nassau at eleven o'clock, still following the Boston and Albany Turnpike, and soon reached the Old Barringer Homestead. It was with this family that I spent my first night in Rensselaer County sixteen years before, when a lad of seventeen, I was looking for a school commissioner and a school to teach. Brockway's was another well-known landmark which I could not pass without stopping, for it was here that I boarded the first week after opening my school at Schodack Centre in the autu
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ALBANY TO SYRACUSE.
ALBANY TO SYRACUSE.
Left Albany at eleven o'clock. My journey to this city led me over the Schenectady Turnpike. Was compelled to ride between showers all day as a rainstorm had set in just as I was leaving Albany. Stopped for dinner at Peter Lansing's, whose farm is about midway between the two cities. This genial gentleman of old Knickerbocker stock greatly amused me with his blunt manner and dry jokes. I was sorry to leave the shelter of his hospitable roof, especially as the weather was exceedingly disagreeable
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TWO DAYS AT SYRACUSE.
TWO DAYS AT SYRACUSE.
Had an early breakfast at Chittenango and calling for Paul at eight o'clock mounted and rode forward, with the city of Syracuse as my evening destination. Nothing of especial interest occurred to vary the day's journey. Syracuse was reached at four o'clock in the afternoon, and the remainder of the day was spent in walks and drives through the city which I had visited several times in former years, and of whose history I had a fair knowledge. Long before the white man came, a band of Iroquois ha
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SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER.
SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER.
Mounted in front of the Vanderbilt House, Syracuse, at four o'clock in the afternoon. A large number of friends and acquaintances had assembled to see me off, among them many G. A. R. comrades, including General Sniper and Captain Auer; the latter a companion in Libby Prison during the late war. Thomas Babcock, who had been acting as an assistant to my advance agents, accompanied me as far as Geddes, and arranged to co-operate with my brother and Mr. Farrington in preparation for my lecture. In
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FOUR DAYS AT ROCHESTER.
FOUR DAYS AT ROCHESTER.
Anticipating rain during the forenoon and fearing that my journey might be interrupted in consequence, I started at an early hour on the morning of June eighth from Fairport, and riding at a brisk pace came into Rochester at eleven o'clock. Just before reaching the city, a halt was made at a little hamlet, two or three miles out, for the purpose of treating Paul's back. Heretofore the necessity of meeting my lecture appointments along the route had given me no opportunity to attend to the painfu
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ROCHESTER TO BUFFALO.
ROCHESTER TO BUFFALO.
I found as I mounted Paul at nine o'clock in front of the Osburn House that on this twelfth of June, 1876, my day's ride would be a trying one on account of the heat, but it was impossible to change the weather and impracticable to change my plans, so I accepted the inevitable. As usual through Central New York a number of Grand Army friends and others had assembled to see me off, and to wish me a safe journey to the "Golden Gate." This cordiality, shown me all along the route, took away the sen
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THREE DAYS AT BUFFALO.
THREE DAYS AT BUFFALO.
An hour's ride from Lancaster, on the morning of the nineteenth, brought to view the motley array of chimneys and towers that overtop the "Queen City of the Lakes." While making my way towards them, and receiving first impressions, my attention was attracted by a brigade drill on the parade ground, which I halted to witness. This was the first instance during my journey in which I had encountered any considerable body of military men, with the exception of the Grand Army procession at Utica, on
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BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND.
BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND.
It had been my intention to leave the "Queen City" on the afternoon of the twenty-first, but I was delayed by my advance agents, who required more time to arrange the preliminaries of my lectures between Buffalo and Cleveland. Babcock went forward to Dunkirk. Farrington to Erie, while it was decided that my brother should accompany me as far as Angola. There were other reasons too, for a longer sojourn at Buffalo, as it was here I met my wife for the last time during my journey, and we had decid
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FIVE DAYS AT CLEVELAND.
FIVE DAYS AT CLEVELAND.
Found a good night's rest at the quiet farm-house of the Lloyds, on the night of the fifth, and after an early breakfast on the following morning called for my horse and started for Cleveland. On my way out, near Wickliffe, I overtook a troop of girls on their way to school. One of them, a bright-faced little maid, giving her name as Ettie Warren, and saying she was a granddaughter of Mr. Lloyd, asked me to accept a bouquet, which had no doubt been intended for her teacher. It was a mass of gay
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CLEVELAND TO TOLEDO.
CLEVELAND TO TOLEDO.
At eight o'clock, my favorite hour for beginning a day's ride, I mounted Paul in front of the hotel at Cleveland, but before leaving the city I stopped at Major Hessler's office to hand him the proceeds of my lecture at Garrett's Hall, which were donated to the Soldiers' Monument Fund at Dayton. This brought me two very kind acknowledgments: one from General James Barnett, who forwarded the money, and the other from Rev. William Earnshaw, custodian of the Monument Fund. These letters, written in
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FIVE DAYS AT TOLEDO.
FIVE DAYS AT TOLEDO.
Ordered Paul and saddled him myself at Elmore, on the morning of July seventeenth. In fact it was my usual custom, while riding through the rural districts, to personally groom, feed and care for my horse, as I learned soon after leaving Boston that, unless I attended to his wants myself, he was most likely to be neglected by those in whose hands he was placed, and from a selfish standpoint, knowing also the importance of keeping him in the best possible condition, I never overlooked anything wh
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TOLEDO TO DETROIT.
TOLEDO TO DETROIT.
My Toledo friends were ready at the Boody House to give me good-bye when I mounted at nine o'clock, and I received a right hearty send-off. Upon leaving the city, instead of continuing westward as usual toward the "Golden Gate," I had determined for various reasons to swing off from the direct course, and ride northward to Detroit, moving thence to Chicago. This new route would take me through Monroe, a town with which the life of General Custer was more closely associated than any other, and kn
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FOUR DAYS AT DETROIT.
FOUR DAYS AT DETROIT.
After a much-needed rest of a day and two nights at Ecorse, I left that quiet retreat on the afternoon of July thirty-first, with Detroit as my evening objective. At Fort Wayne, I was met by Babcock, who brought me the sad intelligence of the death of my little Detroit friend, Kitty Murphy, who had failed very rapidly after her brief visit to Toledo. We rode forward together, reaching the Russell House at five o'clock, and there I was met by General William A. Throop and others, who were appoint
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DETROIT TO CHICAGO.
DETROIT TO CHICAGO.
Having before me a lecture appointment at Ypsilanti, which, considering the object I had in view through Michigan, I felt must be met, I rode out of Detroit at three o'clock in the afternoon, somewhat reluctantly perhaps, but within a very short time the love of travel was again upon me, and I found myself easily reconciled. Paul being in the most delightful spirits, after four days of unbroken rest, displayed quite a little animation as I mounted him in front of the residence of friends on Cass
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THREE DAYS AT CHICAGO.
THREE DAYS AT CHICAGO.
On the eleventh of September, I took the 7.50 morning train at Michigan City for Chicago, instead of going forward on horseback, as I had discovered by a study of the map of Illinois, that I could save Paul some thirty miles, in my journey across the State, by riding directly from Michigan City to Joliet, and I saw no good reason why I should ride him up here, especially at a time when he was greatly in need of rest. When I had registered at the "Grand Pacific," I went to the Fidelity Safe Depos
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CHICAGO TO DAVENPORT.
CHICAGO TO DAVENPORT.
In the morning I settled with Darby, and in the afternoon he returned to Decatur. At nightfall here, the excitement which had been rising during the day reached its climax when the Michigan City Democrats repaired to the New Albany depot to hold a mass meeting. Notwithstanding my own sentiments, I went too, and was highly entertained by the speakers, among whom were Hon. Daniel W. Voorhees of Terre Haute, Hon. James Williams—better known in the Hoosier State as "Blue Jeans" Williams—and Hon. Mor
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FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT.
FOUR DAYS AT DAVENPORT.
I left the Milan House at two P. M. , Paul being eager for the start. Before proceeding far I dismounted and ran ahead leaving him to follow me if he would. I ran over two or three small hills and the faithful animal broke into a gallop and was soon by my side mutely inviting me to remount. About four o'clock we crossed the Mississippi on the fine Government Bridge which unites Rock Island and Davenport, and proceeded to the Burtis House—since named the Kimball. Colonel P. A. J. Russell was one
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DAVENPORT TO DES MOINES.
DAVENPORT TO DES MOINES.
Weather cold, but clear and bracing. Mounted Paul at three o'clock P. M. and halted at the office of The Democrat , to say good-bye to Colonel Russell. On the road I overtook S. N. Garlock, a farmer, who invited me to spend the night at his house, which I agreed to do and was made very comfortable. I soon discovered that Mr. Garlock was a native of the Empire State, but came to Iowa twenty-seven years ago, and was now the owner of a prosperous farm near the village of Blue Grass. He spoke of vis
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DES MOINES TO OMAHA.
DES MOINES TO OMAHA.
Left Des Moines with pleasant thoughts of the cordial reception I had met with, and pursuing my way westward over the prairies, reached this village in the evening after a twenty-five miles' ride over a section of the country strikingly beautiful. The soil of the prairie, I am everywhere informed, is almost invariably of the most productive character. No other State, in short, has finer facilities for growing all the cereals of the temperate zone than Iowa. Adel is the county-seat of Dallas Coun
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A HALT AT OMAHA.
A HALT AT OMAHA.
Omaha, the capital of Douglas County, the chief commercial city and metropolis of Nebraska, is the half-way station across the Continent. It is aptly called the "Gate City," seeming, as it does, a sort of opening to the great railroads, the great waterways, and the whole fascinating great beyond of western enterprise and western commerce. As I rode into the city it seemed that it would be hard to find a more attractive place. "A fine plateau nearly a mile broad, and elevated fifty or sixty feet
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OMAHA TO CHEYENNE.
OMAHA TO CHEYENNE.
As winter was approaching and the days were now becoming considerably shorter, it was incumbent upon me to hasten my departure from Omaha, if I would reach my destination as contemplated at the outset. Having learned from frontiersmen that Eastern horses are not available in the Alkali Region of the Plains, I placed my faithful Paul in a boarding stable in Omaha, purchased a mustang of a Pawnee Indian and forthwith continued my journey westward. Webster defines a mustang as the "Wild Horse of th
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CAPTURED BY INDIANS.
CAPTURED BY INDIANS.
Cheyenne was at length left behind, and, with the object of securing companionship in my journey across Wyoming and Utah, I made the acquaintance of two herders—rough men and plain of speech, but apparently reliable and trustworthy. During the few days spent with these pioneers of the Plains, I learned but little of their past lives, yet I was thoroughly satisfied from the first that they would prove invaluable guides in my otherwise lonely ride over the Rockies. My new companions, Israel Gordon
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AMONG THE MORMONS.
AMONG THE MORMONS.
In my ride across the Territory of Utah amid its snow-capped mountains, hot sulphur springs and its great Salt Lake, I met no hostile Indians, but on the contrary many hospitable Mormons; in fact, my reception by both Mormon and Gentile was invariably kind and generous. I saw something of the social life of Utah as well as the wonderful country through which I passed, and was favorably impressed with the material development of the latter, as witnessed in its farms and mechanical industries. The
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OVER THE SIERRAS.
OVER THE SIERRAS.
Sierra is the Spanish word for 'saw' and also for 'mountain,' referring to the notched outline of the mountains as seen against the sky. My main object now was to push on to Sacramento. At Kelton, in Utah, where I remained only a few hours, I was still seven hundred and ninety miles from my destination. Stock is extensively grazed here and cattle shipped to the Pacific coast in very large numbers. Leaving Kelton, I rode thirty-three miles to Terrace, a small settlement in the midst of a desert;
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ALONG THE SACRAMENTO.
ALONG THE SACRAMENTO.
From Truckee I rode along the line of the Central Pacific Railroad, stopping for the night at villages intermediate between Truckee and Sacramento, the principal of which were Summit, Colfax and Auburn. Summit is the highest point of the pass through which the railroad crosses the Sierra Nevada, its height above sea-level being 7,042 feet. The population was only a little over one hundred. Colfax, fifty-four miles from Sacramento, had a population of nearly six hundred, mostly employed in the go
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SAN FRANCISCO AND END OF JOURNEY.
SAN FRANCISCO AND END OF JOURNEY.
San Francisco, the chief city on the Western Coast of North America, is in every respect a wonderful city, not least so in its origin and development. Not very long ago—less than a century—the Pacific Coast was almost an unexplored region. The great State of California—next to Texas, the largest in the Union—now teems with populous cities and new settlements, and produces meat and grain abundantly sufficient for the supply of a large portion of the country. It has a coast line on the Pacific Oce
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