Journals Of Travels In Assam, Burma, Bhootan, Afghanistan And The Neighbouring Countries

JOURNALS OF TRAVELS IN ASSAM, BURMA, BHOOTAN, AFGHANISTAN AND THE NEIGHBOURING COUNTRIES By William Griffith. Arranged by John M’Clelland.

Sketch of William Griffith...

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LIST OF PLATES.

I VIEW FROM NUNKLOW II THE VILLAGE OF NUNKLOW III CAPTAIN MATHIE’S CUTCHERRY, THE BOOTAN HILLS, AND HIMALAYA IV THE HIMALAYA FROM RANGAGURRAH V BRAMAKHOOND AND FAQUEER’S ROCK VI THE MORI-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND VII THE DEO-PANEE AS IT ENTERS THE KHOOND VIII THE VALLEY OF HOOKUM IX MEINKHOOM X VIEW FROM BEESA XI VIEW ON THE JHEELS XII THE OK-KLONG ROCK XIII KULLONG BRIDGE XIV TASSGOUNG FROM UPPER KULONG XV CHINDUPJEE XVI

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NOTICE OF WILLIAM GRIFFITH, from the Proceedings of the Linnæan Society, with a few extracts from his private correspondence.

“WILLIAM GRIFFITH, Esq., the youngest son of the late Thomas Griffith, was born on the 4th of March 1810, at his father’s residence at Ham Common, near Kingston-upon-Thames, in the county of Surrey. “He was educated for the Medical profession, and completed his studies at the London University, where he became a pupil of Prof. Lindley, under whose able instructions, assisted by the zealous friendship of Mr. R. H. Solly, and in conjunction with two fellow pupils of great scientific promise, Mr. S

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CHAPTER I.

When proceeding with the Assam Deputation for the Examination of the Tea Plant . September , 1835 .—We arrived at Pubna on the 9th of September, and left it on the following morning, pursuing the course of the Pubna “Karee,” which is exceedingly tortuous and of about an average width of 100 yards. On the evening of the 10th, we halted in the same river near its termination. This morning we reached the “Beera,” into which the Pubna Karee enters, and which at the mouth presents a vast expanse of

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CHAPTER II.

Journal of a trip to the Mishmee Mountains , from the Debouching of the Lohit to about ten miles East of the Ghalooms . Lat . 27°50' to 28°10' N .; Long . 95°20' to 96°40' E . I left Suddiya on the morning of the 15th October 1836, and halted at Noa Dihing Mookh, (river mouth) a place abounding in fish, and promising excellent sport both in fly and live-bait fishing. The temperature of the Noa Dihing, an indolent stream flowing over a flat, sandy plain, was 79°; that of the B. pooter, which fa

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CHAPTER III.

Revisits the Tea Localities in the Singphoo and Muttack Districts , Upper Assam . Dec . 2nd .—Returned to Jingsha via Kussin Panee, or river, and Karam Panee, the march being a tolerably easy one. Found along the steep banks of the former a fine Meniscium, frondibus 6-8 pedalibus, and an arborescent Polypodium, caudice 12-15 pedali, partibus novellis densissime ferrugineo-tomentosis; frondibus subtus glauco-albidis. The caudex is altogether similar in structure to that of Alsophyla, equally fu

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CHAPTER IV.

Journey from Upper Assam towards Hookhoom , Ava , and Rangoon , Lat . 27°25' to 16°45' N ., Long . 96° to 96°20' E . We left Suddiya on the 7th of February 1837, and reached Kedding on the 10th; stayed there one day, and reached Kamroop Putar, where I found Major White and Lieut. Bigge on the 12th. The jungle to this place was similar to the usual jungle of the Singpho country, very generally low, and intersected by ravines. We crossed en route the Karam river, the Noa Dihing, or Dihing branch

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CHAPTER V.

Continues the Journey from Hookhoom Valley ; Lat . 26°20' N ., Long . 96°40' E ., towards Ava . March 28th .—Started at 5½ A.M., and arrived at a halting place at 3½ P.M. General direction nearly south. Distance 22 miles. Throughout the first part we followed the Kampyet, on the left bank of which Wulloboom is situated. We thence diverged into jungle. The remainder of the time was occupied in crossing low hills, with here and there a small plain. We halted on a nullah, which discharges its

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CHAPTER VI.

Botanical notes connected with the foregoing Journal . ( February 19th .—The finest view of the hills from Upper Assam is obtained on a reach or turn of the river just above Palankar, the river bending to the NNE. Snow is plentifully seen on one back range from the Sugar-loaf peak. Another reach shortly after presents a fine view of the Burrampooter chasm, terminated by the rugged peak so distinctly seen from Suddiyah, due east. This view might be chosen, as a general characteristic of the Sc

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CHAPTER VII.

Report to the Government of India , 12th July , 1837 . In the following report, I have divided the marches into series, corresponding with the countries through which they were made, reserving a table of the whole for a subsequent part. These series will be as follows— 1. From Sadiya to Beesa Lacoom. 2. From Beesa Lacoom to Namtusseek. 3. From Namtuseek to Wullabhoom. 4. From Wullabhoom to Mogoung. 5. From Mogoung to Ava. COUNTRY TRAVERSED BELONGING TO THE BRITISH GOVERNMENT, AND FORMING P

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CHAPTER VIII.

Notes made on descending the Irrawaddi from Ava to Rangoon . 28th May .—I left Ava and halted about two miles above Menboo. 29th May .—Continuing the journey, the country appears flat with occasionally low hills as about Kioukloloing, no large villages occur; the river is sub-divided by churs; no large grasses to be seen, and the vegetation is arid. Bombax is the chief tree: Mudar and Zizyphus occur: Guilandina, Crotolaria a large Acanthacea, and a Jasminioides shrub are the most common plants:

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CHAPTER IX.

Journal towards Assam and to Bootan—contains notes on distribution of Plants . Left Calcutta a second time on the 31st August 1837, arrived at Serampore on the 1st September, and spent the day with the Voights. September 3rd .—Continue on the Hooghly: paddy cultivation prevails and Crotalaria juncea; this last is sown broadcast in low places, but not quite so low as paddy. Bengallees are but slovenly husbandmen; grass, etc. collected by them in small cocks, and covered with a small thatch, whic

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CHAPTER X.

Continues the Journey towards Assam and Bootan . The annexed table of the distributions of plants in relation to altitudes of the Khasyah mountains may render the subject of the preceding observations more clear and distinct. The dotted line along the left hand margin represents the elevation of the mountains, the greater height of which is something better than 6,000 feet. Gradient Surureem to Moflong October 8th .—Visited the fir wood, which is about three miles to the eastward; the road runs

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CHAPTER XI.

Journey from Assam towards Bootan . Left Gowahatti on the 21st and halted at Ameengong ghat. December 22nd , 1837 .—Left at twelve and proceeded to Hazoo, which is nearly due west of Ameengong, and distant thirteen miles. Road, through grassy plains; much cultivation throughout the greater part. Passed several villages, and forded one stream. Hazoo is at the foot of some low hills, on one of which is a temple of great sanctity with the Booteahs. The hills above this, as well as between this

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CHAPTER XII.

Continuation of the journey in Bootan . The following table affords the result of observations made with the view to determine the relation between temperature and altitude, in these parts. At 9,000 feet, the jungle now became humid, Gaultheria flexuosa, Mespilus microphyllus, Quercus ilecifolia, Tetrantheroides baccis nigris, Gaultherium nummularifolia common, Rubia cordifolia! Hydrangea. At 8,900 feet, Junipers cease, woods of Q. ilecifolia and Pinus cedroides, Rosa microphylla, shrubby Rhodod

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CHAPTER XIII.

Return of the Mission from Bootan . May 9th , 1838 .—We left Punukha at twelve, having been delayed throughout the morning, on account of coolies. We crossed the palace precints, and the two bridges unmolested. Our road lay in the direction of our entering Punukha for some time, but on the opposite bank of the river. We gradually descended throughout this portion. Then at about eight miles turning round a ridge, we followed a ravine to the west, some distance above its base, gradually descen

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CHAPTER XIV.

Journey with the Army of the Indus . From Loodianah to Candahar through the Bolan Pass . I reached Loodianah on the 10th December 1838, after a dâwk journey of fourteen and a half days. After passing the Rajemahal Hills, the country presents an uniform aspect, but becoming more sandy as one proceeds to the northward. The hills alluded to, form a low range, the only one of any height being that called Pursunath. They are well wooded, the under-vegetation being grassy. Undulating ground bare

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CHAPTER XV.

Candahar to Cabul . The good old Moolla of a mosque, to which we resort daily, gives me the following information about the vegetable products of this country, from which it would seem, that every thing not producing food, is looked upon with contempt. The fruit trees, are— 1. Sha - aloo , Aloo - bookhara , (damson), which has ripe fruit in August, the same time as figs; Zurd - aloo , (apricot), Aloocha —apricot, Shuft - aloo , another kind of apricot; Unar , (pomegranate); Ungoor , (grapes);

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CHAPTER XVI.

From Cabul to Bamean—The Helmund , and Oxus rivers . 24th August , 1839 .—Left Cabul for Bamean, and marched to Urghundee. 25th .—To the Cabul river, distance twelve and a half miles; diverged from the Cabul road at Urghundee Chokey, striking obliquely across a ravine that debouches into the main valley at this point. The course of the river ENE. or thereabouts, then we entered a ravine to the west side of the river, and commenced ascending the pass, which is not difficult, and although rather

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CHAPTER XVII.

From Cabul to Jallalabad and Peshawur . October 7th .—Proceeded to Bhootkhak, nine and a half miles from Cabul, and seven from our camp: the direction lay easterly. A canal and a river were both crossed by bridges, the latter of stone, but much needing repairs: the country generally marshy: the marshes were crossed by a causeway of stones, rough and broken here and there. The road is one apparent continued slope to this, but the Barometer gives no indication of any difference of level. The ma

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CHAPTER XVIII.

From Peshawur to Pushut . January 8th .—At Ichardeh. Between Busoollah and Lalpoor are three curious low ridges, none above sixty feet high, and all of small extent; they are covered with fractured masses of rock of the same size as those strewn so liberally about the shingly slopes; but they are much cleaner or fresher looking, and appear to me less worn. Whence do they derive their singular situation? They occur in such numbers, that one would at first think they originated from a mass of r

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CHAPTER XIX.

On the Reproductive Organs of Acotyledonous plants . 17th .—Fine weather, the sun daily increasing in power, is having a remarkable effect on the peculiar spring vegetation, but this is not sufficiently developed to bring in the corresponding birds and insects. Gypaëtos is common now about the dead camels. On the low east ridge, along the path that leads over the river, ruins of ancient times are discernible, this only adds another to the many proofs of similarly situated ruins, that the people

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CHAPTER XX.

From Pushut to Kettore and Barowl in Kaffiristan , and return to Pushut and Cabul . February 20th .—Fumaria found. 23rd .—Cloudy, threatening rain. Swallows coming in, also Fringillaria, with blackish cheek-streaks, also Pyrgita alia, starlings uncommon up to this day about the site of the camp, where there is much straw, and camels are lying. Flocks of rooks , genuine rooks, flocks of daws, minas , pigeons, and many carrion crows have been daily resorting to camp, all very wild from being con

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CHAPTER XXI.

From Cabul to Kohi - Baba . July 17th .—Proceeded from Cabul to Shah Bagh; cloudy weather, occasionally a very slight shower during the last few days, depending probably on the Punjab rains. To-day, observed a small green caterpillar, climbing up a fine thread, like a spider’s web, which hung from the fly of the tent; its motions were precisely those of climbing, the thread over which it had passed was accumulated between its third pairs of legs; it did not use its mouth. I did not ascertain wh

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CHAPTER XXII.

From Peshawur to Lahore . October 14th .—Peshawur.—Cucurbitaceæ. The petals of cucurbita were observed in one instance united along two of the corollal sinuses to the staminal column, alternating with the smaller stamina; the processes were produced upwards into petaloid appendages. 17th .—Proceeded to Nowshera. As far as Pubbe the road extended chiefly through a cultivated country, thence as far as could be judged at night, over a plain country covered with coarse grass, and here and there (w

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CHAPTER XXIII.

From Lahore to Simla . Lahore is surrounded by a ditch and wall, the work of former emperors’ of Delhi; the environs of the city, particularly towards M. Court’s residence, are studded with mosques, etc. mostly half ruined, and the ground is literally strewn with old bricks, so that the city must at one time have been an enormous one. Seikh troops in large numbers are cantoned round to the east and south-east skirts of the town, in low pucka barracks. Several low mounds apparently unconnected wi

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CHAPTER XXIV.

Heights and Latitudes of the Stations visited in Affghanistan . {517} “The subjoined Table contains the latitudes and the altitudes of the principal stations passed through by the late Dr. Griffith during the Cabul campaign in 1838-40, from his original observations. The altitudes for the latitudes were taken with the sextant and the artificial horizon, and the results throughout are so nearly coincident, that it may be relied on the latitudes herein given are correct to within half a minute in

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NOTES.

{0a} Major Thomson, C. B., Engineers, from whom as well as all the officers of the same corps, Mr. Griffith experienced much kindness in Affghanistan. {0b} Racoma nobilis , Calcutta Journ. Nat. Hist. Vol. ii, p.577. t. xv fig. 4. Subfam. SCHIZOTHORACINÆ. {0c} Calcutta Journal Natural History, Vol. II. p577, t, xv. f. 4. {7} It is also on a northern declivity. {9} On a hill near the Bungalow are the tombs of Lieuts. Burlton and Beddinfield, two distinguished officers murdered by the natives in

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