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Dr. I. I. HAYES.
Dr. I. I. HAYES.
NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY HURD AND HOUGHTON, 1867. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866, by I. I. Hayes , in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. RIVERSIDE, CAMBRIDGE: STEREOTYPED AND PRINTED BY H. O. HOUGHTON AND COMPANY. I HAD INTENDED TO DEDICATE THIS BOOK TO WILLIAM PARKER FOULKE, Of Philadelphia, To whom I am indebted for all that a powerful intellect and a generous friendship could do, to give practical shape to my plans, and to ins
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
The design of this book may be briefly explained. I have attempted little more than a personal narrative, endeavoring to select from my abundant notes such scenes and incidents of adventure as seemed to me best calculated to bring before the mind of the reader, not merely the history of our voyage, but a general view of the Arctic regions,—its scenery and its life, with a cursory glance at those physical forces which, in their results, give characteristic expression to that remote quarter of the
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LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS
LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS
TO THE EXPEDITION. [1] [1] The author has reason to suppose that there are several persons to whom the Expedition is indebted for support whose names, not having been furnished him, do not appear in this list. Desiring to make it entirely complete, he will feel personally obliged to any one whose name is omitted to notify him of the fact, through the agency by which the subscription was furnished. THROUGH A SPECIAL COMMITTEE OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL SOCIETY, NEW YORK. EGBERT
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EXPLANATION OF TAIL-PIECES.
EXPLANATION OF TAIL-PIECES.
Drawn on wood by G. G. White from Photographs and Sketches by Dr. Hayes. Engraved mostly by J. A. Bogert....
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
PAGE Plan of the Expedition.—First Announcement.—Appeal to Scientific Societies.—Aid solicited.—Public Lectures.—Liberality of various Societies and Individuals.—Vessel purchased in Boston.—Interest manifested in that City.—Difficulty in obtaining a proper Crew.—Organization of the Party.—Scientific Outfit.—Abundant Supplies 1...
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Leaving Boston.—At Anchor in Nantasket Roads.—At Sea 13...
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Passage to the Greenland Coast.—Discipline.—The Decks at Sea.—Our Quarters.—The First Iceberg.—Crossing the Arctic Circle.—The Midnight Sun.—The Endless Day.—Making the Land.—A Remarkable Scene among the Bergs.—At Anchor in Pröven Harbor 16...
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
The Colony of Pröven.—The Kayak of the Greenlander.—Scarcity of Dogs.—Liberality of the Chief Trader.—Arctic Flora 28...
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Upernavik.—Hospitality of the Inhabitants.—Death and Burial of Gibson Caruthers.—A Lunch on Board.—Adieu 35...
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Among the Icebergs.—Dangers of Arctic Navigation.—A Narrow Escape from a Crumbling Berg.—Measurement of an Iceberg 44...
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Entering Melville Bay.—The Middle Ice.—The Great Polar Current.—A Snow-Storm.—Encounter with an Iceberg.—Making Cape York.—Rescue of Hans 57...
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Hans and his Family.—Petowak Glacier.—A Snow-Storm.—The Ice-Pack.—Entering Smith Sound.—A Severe Gale.—Collision with Icebergs.—Encounter with the Ice-Fields.—Retreat from the Pack.—At Anchor in Hartstene Bay.—Entering Winter Quarters 68...
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Our Winter Harbor.—Preparing for Winter.—Organization of Duties.—Scientific Work.—The Observatory.—Schooner Driven Ashore.—The Hunters.—Sawing a Dock.—Frozen up.—Sunset 92...
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CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
Sunset.—Winter Work.—My Dog-Teams.—"My Brother John's Glacier."—Hunting.—Peat Beds.—Esquimau Graves.—Putrefaction at Low Temperatures.—Sonntag climbs the Glacier.—Hans and Peter.—My Esquimau People.—The Esquimau Dog.—Surveying the Glacier.—The Sailing-Master.—His Birthday Dinner 101...
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CHAPTER X
CHAPTER X
Journey on the Glacier.—The First Camp.—Scaling the Glacier.—Character of its Surface.—The Ascent.—Driven back by a Gale.—Low Temperature.—Dangerous Situation of the Party.—A Moonlight Scene 127...
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CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XI
Important Results of the recent Journey.—The Glacier System of Greenland.—General Discussion of the Subject.—Illustrations drawn from the Alpine Glaciers.—Glacier Movement.—Outline of the Greenland Mer de Glace 137...
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CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XII
My Cabin.—Surveying.—Castor and Pollux.—Concerning Scurvy.—Dangers of eating Cold Snow.—Knorr and Starr.—Frost-Bites.—Hans, Peter, and Jacob again.—Coal Account.—The Fires.—Comfort of our Quarters.—The House on Deck.—Mild Weather.—Jensen.—Mrs. Hans.—John Williams, the Cook.—A Cheerful Evening 149...
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CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIII
Increasing Darkness.—Daily Routine.—The Journal.—Our Home.—Sunday.—Return of Sonntag.—A Bear-Hunt.—The Open Water.—Accident to Mr. Knorr.—A Thaw.—"The Port Foulke Weekly News."—The Tide-Register.—The Fire-Hole.—Hunting Foxes.—Peter 165...
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CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XIV
Midwinter.—The Night of Months.—Brilliancy of the Moonlight.—Mild Temperatures.—Remarkable Weather.—A Shower.—Depth of Snow.—Snow Crystals.—An Epidemic among the Dogs.—Symptoms of the Disorder.—Great Mortality.—Only one Team left.—New Plans.—Schemes for reaching the Esquimaux in Whale Sound 192...
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CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XV
The Arctic Midnight.—Sonntag starts for Whale Sound.—Effects of Darkness on the Spirits.—Routine of Duties.—Christmas Eve.—Christmas Day.—The Christmas Dinner 200...
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CHAPTER XVI
CHAPTER XVI
The New Year.—Looking for Sonntag.—The Aurora Borealis.—A Remarkable Display.—Depth of Snow.—Strange Mildness of the Weather.—The Open Sea.—Evaporation at Low Temperatures.—Looking for the Twilight.—My Pet Fox 212...
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CHAPTER XVIII
CHAPTER XVIII
Prolonged Absence of Mr. Sonntag.—Preparing to look for him.—Arrival of Esquimaux.—They report Sonntag dead.—Arrival of Hans.—Condition of the Dogs.—Hans's Story of the Journey 227...
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CHAPTER XIX
CHAPTER XIX
Sonntag.—Twilight increasing.—A Deer-Hunt.—The Arctic Foxes.—The Polar Bear.—Adventures with Bears.—Our New Esquimaux.—Esquimau Dress.—A Snow House.—Esquimau Implements.—A Walrus Hunt 236...
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CHAPTER XX
CHAPTER XX
Looking for the Sun.—The Open Sea.—Birds 248...
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CHAPTER XXII
CHAPTER XXII
Spring Twilight.—Arrival of Esquimaux.—Obtaining Dogs.—Kalutunah, Tattarat, Myouk, Amalatok and his Son.—An Arctic Hospital.—Esquimau Gratitude 255...
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CHAPTER XXIII
CHAPTER XXIII
Kalutunah returns.—An Esquimau Family.—The Family Property.—The Family Wardrobe.—Myouk and his Wife.—Peter's Dead Body found.—My New Teams.—The Situation.—Hunting.—Subsistence of Arctic Animals.—Pursuit of Science under Difficulties.—Kalutunah at Home.—An Esquimau Feast.—Kalutunah in Service.—Recovering the Body of Mr. Sonntag.—The Funeral.—The Tomb 265...
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CHAPTER XXIV
CHAPTER XXIV
Starting on my First Journey.—Object of the Journey.—A Mishap.—A Fresh Start.—The First Camp.—Hartstene's Cairn.—Exploring a Track.—A New Style of Snow-Hut.—An Uncomfortable Night.—Low Temperature.—Effect of Temperature on the Snow.—Among the Hummocks.—Sighting Humboldt Glacier.—The Track impracticable to the Main Party.—Van Rensselaer Harbor.—Fate of the Advance .—A Drive in a Gale 277...
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CHAPTER XXV
CHAPTER XXV
Sending forward Supplies.—Kalutunah as a Driver.—Kalutunah civilized.—Mr. Knorr.—Plan of my Proposed Journey.—Preparing to set out.—Industrious Esquimau Women.—Death and Burial of Kablunet.—The Start 290...
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CHAPTER XXVI
CHAPTER XXVI
The First Day's Journey.—A Fall of Temperature.—Its Effect upon the Men.—Camped in a Snow-Hut.—The Second Day's Journey.—At Cairn Point.—Character of the Ice.—The Prospect.—Storm-stayed.—The Cooks in Difficulty.—Snow-Drift.—Violence of the Gale.—Our Snow-Hut 297...
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CHAPTER XXVII
CHAPTER XXVII
The Storm continues.—At Work.—Among the Hummocks.—Difficulties of the Track.—The Snow-Drifts.—Slow Progress.—The Smith Sound Ice.—Formation of the Hummocks.—The Old Ice-Fields.—Growth of Ice-Fields.—Thickness of Ice.—The Prospect 307...
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CHAPTER XXVIII
CHAPTER XXVIII
The Difficulties multiplying.—Sledge broken.—Reflections on the Prospect.—The Men breaking down.—Worse and Worse.—The Situation.—Defeat of Main Party.—Resolve to send the Party back and continue the Journey with Dogs 315...
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CHAPTER XXIX
CHAPTER XXIX
The Main Party sent back.—Plunging into the Hummocks again.—Advantages of Dogs.—Camp in an Ice-Cave.—Nursing the Dogs.—Snow-Blindness.—A Chapter of Accidents.—Cape Hawks.—Cape Napoleon.—Storm-stayed.—Grinnell Land looming up.—Discovering a Sound.—Ravenous Disposition of Dogs.—A Cheerless Supper.—Camping in the Open Air.—Prostration of Men and Dogs.—Making the Land at last 322...
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CHAPTER XXX
CHAPTER XXX
The Prospect Ahead.—To Cape Napoleon.—To Cape Frazer.—Traces of Esquimaux.—Rotten Ice.—Kennedy Channel.—Mildness of Temperature.—Appearance of Birds.—Geological Features of Coast.—Vegetation.—Accident to Jensen 333...
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CHAPTER XXXI
CHAPTER XXXI
A New Start.—Speculations.—In a Fog.—Polar Scenery.—Stopped by Rotten Ice.—Looking Ahead.—Conclusions.—The Open Sea.—Climax of the Journey.—Returning South 343...
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CHAPTER XXXII
CHAPTER XXXII
The Open Polar Sea.—Width of the Polar Basin.—Boundaries of the Polar Basin.—Polar Currents.—Polar Ice.—The Ice-Belt.—Arctic Navigation and Discovery.—The Russian Sledge Explorations.—Wrangel's Open Sea.—Parry's Boat Expedition.—Dr. Kane's Discoveries.—Expansion of Smith Sound.—General Conclusions drawn from my own Discoveries and those of my Predecessors 353...
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CHAPTER XXXIII
CHAPTER XXXIII
On Board the Schooner.—Review of the Journey.—The Return down Kennedy Channel.—A Severe March in a Snow-Storm.—Rotten Ice.—Effects of a Gale.—Returning through the Hummocks.—The Dogs breaking down.—Adrift on a Floe at Cairn Point.—The Open Water compels us to take to the Land.—Reaching the Schooner.—Projecting a Chart.—The New Sound.—My Northern Discoveries 363...
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CHAPTER XXXIV
CHAPTER XXXIV
Inspection of the Schooner.—Method of Repairing.—The Serious Nature of the Injury.—The Schooner unfit for any further Ice-Encounters.—Examination of my Resources.—Plans for the Future 376...
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CHAPTER XXXV
CHAPTER XXXV
The Arctic Spring.—Snow disappearing.—Plants show Signs of Life.—Return of the Birds.—Change in the Sea.—Refitting the Schooner.—The Esquimaux.—Visit to Kalutunah.—Kalutunah's Account of the Esquimau Traditions.—Hunting-Grounds contracted by the Accumulation of Ice.—Hardships of their Life.—Their Subsistence.—The Race dwindling away.—Visit to the Glacier.—Re-survey of the Glacier.—Kalutunah catching Birds.—A Snow-Storm and a Gale.—The Mid-day of the Arctic Summer 381...
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CHAPTER XXXVI
CHAPTER XXXVI
The Arctic Summer.—The Flora.—The Ice dissolving.— A Summer Storm of Rain, Hail, and Snow.—The Terraces.—Ice Action.—Upheaval of the Coast.—Geological Interest of Icebergs and the Land-Ice.—A Walrus Hunt.—The "Fourth."—Visit to Littleton Island.—Great Numbers of Eider-Ducks and Gulls.—The Ice breaking up.—Critical Situation of the Schooner.—Taking Leave of the Esquimaux.—Adieu to Port Foulke 396...
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CHAPTER XXXVII
CHAPTER XXXVII
Leaving Port Foulke.—Effort to reach Cape Isabella.—Meet the Pack and take Shelter at Littleton Island.—Hunting.—Abundance of Birds and Walrus.—Visit to Cairn Point.—Reaching the West Coast.—View from Cape Isabella.—Plans for the Future.—Our Results.—Chances of reaching the Polar Sea discussed.—The Glaciers of Ellesmere Land 416...
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CHAPTER XXXVIII
CHAPTER XXXVIII
Leaving Smith Sound.—Crossing the North Water.—Meeting the Pack.—The Sea and Air teeming with Life.—Remarkable Refraction.—Reaching Whale Sound.—Surveying in a Boat.—The Sound traced to its Termination.—Meeting Esquimaux at Iteplik.—Habits of the Esquimaux.—Marriage Ceremony.—The Decay of the Tribe.—View of Barden Bay.—Tyndall Glacier 426...
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CHAPTER XXXIX
CHAPTER XXXIX
Homeward Bound.—Entering Melville Bay.—Encounter with a Bear.—Meeting the Pack.—Making the "South Water."—Reaching Upernavik.—The News.—To Goodhaven.—Liberality of the Danish Government and the Greenland Officials.—Driven out of Baffin Bay by a Gale.—Crippled by the Storm and forced to take Shelter in Halifax.—Hospitable Reception.—Arrival in Boston.—Realize the State of the Country.—The Determination.—Conclusion 439...
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INTRODUCTION.
INTRODUCTION.
PLAN OF THE EXPEDITION.—FIRST ANNOUNCEMENT.—APPEAL TO SCIENTIFIC SOCIETIES.—AID SOLICITED.—PUBLIC LECTURES.—LIBERALITY OF VARIOUS SOCIETIES AND INDIVIDUALS.—VESSEL PURCHASED IN BOSTON.—INTEREST MANIFESTED IN THAT CITY.—DIFFICULTY IN OBTAINING A PROPER CREW.—ORGANIZATION OF THE PARTY.—SCIENTIFIC OUTFIT.—ABUNDANT SUPPLIES. I purpose to record in this Book the events of the Expedition which I conducted to the Arctic Seas. The plan of the enterprise first suggested itself to me while acting as Surge
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
LEAVING BOSTON.—AT ANCHOR IN NANTASKET ROADS.—AT SEA. Late in the evening of July 6th, 1860, the schooner United States was hauled into the stream, prepared to leave port the following morning. The morning dawned clear and auspicious. Upon going on board, I found that a number of friends whom I had invited to accompany us down the bay had preceded me by half an hour. Among them were His Excellency the Governor of the State, and representatives of the Boston, New York and Philadelphia committees.
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
PASSAGE TO THE GREENLAND COAST.—DISCIPLINE.—THE DECKS AT SEA.—OUR QUARTERS.—THE FIRST ICEBERG.—CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE.—THE MIDNIGHT SUN.—THE ENDLESS DAY.—MAKING THE LAND.—A REMARKABLE SCENE AMONG THE BERGS.—AT ANCHOR IN PRÖVEN HARBOR. I will not long detain the reader with the details of our passage to the Greenland coast. It was mainly devoid of interest. My first concern was to regulate the domestic affairs of my little company; my second, to make the schooner as tidy and comfortable as po
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
THE COLONY OF PRÖVEN.—THE KAYAK OF THE GREENLANDER.—SCARCITY OF DOGS.—LIBERALITY OF THE CHIEF TRADER.—ARCTIC FLORA. We were escorted into the harbor of Pröven by the strangest fleet of boats and the strangest-looking boatmen that ever convoyed a ship. They were the far-famed kayakers of Greenland, and they deserve a passing notice. The kayak of the Greenlander is the frailest specimen of marine architecture that ever carried human freight. It is eighteen feet long and as many inches wide at its
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
UPERNAVIK.—HOSPITALITY OF THE INHABITANTS.—DEATH AND BURIAL OF GIBSON CARUTHERS.—A LUNCH ON BOARD.—ADIEU. We put to sea early in the morning of the 12th, and in the evening of the same day were at Upernavik. The entrance to the harbor is somewhat unsafe, owing to a reef which lies outside the anchorage; but we were fortunate in obtaining a native pilot at Pröven, and ran in without accident. This pilot was a character in his way. It seems that he had been converted from his heathen ways, and rej
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
AMONG THE ICEBERGS.—DANGERS OF ARCTIC NAVIGATION.—A NARROW ESCAPE FROM A CRUMBLING BERG.—MEASUREMENT OF AN ICEBERG. Upernavik is not less the limit of safe navigation than the remotest boundary of civilized existence. The real hardships of our career commenced before its little white gabled church was fairly lost against the dark hills behind it. A heavy line of icebergs was discovered to lie across our course; and, having no alternative, we shot in among them. Some of them proved to be of enorm
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
ENTERING MELVILLE BAY.—THE MIDDLE ICE.—THE GREAT POLAR CURRENT—A SNOW STORM.—ENCOUNTER WITH AN ICEBERG.—MAKING CAPE YORK—RESCUE OF HANS. The sun was now no longer above the horizon at midnight, and the nights were growing gloomy, a circumstance which warned us to additional carefulness. Notwithstanding our precautions, we narrowly escaped running upon a sunken reef which lies off the Horse's Head, and is not laid down on the chart. We came also among some ice-fields, the first that we had yet en
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
HANS AND HIS FAMILY.—PETOWAK GLACIER.—A SNOW-STORM.—THE ICE-PACK.—ENTERING SMITH'S SOUND.—A SEVERE GALE.—COLLISION WITH ICEBERGS.—ENCOUNTER WITH THE ICE-FIELDS.—RETREAT FROM THE PACK.—AT ANCHOR IN HARTSTENE BAY.—ENTERING WINTER QUARTERS. It was five o'clock in the evening when I reached the schooner. The wind had freshened during our absence; and, unwilling to lose so favorable an opportunity for pushing on, I had hastened on board. Otherwise I should gladly have given some time to an examinatio
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
OUR WINTER HARBOR.—PREPARING FOR WINTER.—ORGANIZATION OF DUTIES.—SCIENTIFIC WORK.—THE OBSERVATORY.—SCHOONER DRIVEN ASHORE.—THE HUNTERS.—SAWING A DOCK.—FROZEN UP. I named our harbor Port Foulke, in honor of my friend, the late William Parker Foulke, of Philadelphia, who was one of the earliest, and continued to be throughout one of the most constant advocates of the expedition. It was well sheltered except from the southwest, toward which quarter it was quite exposed; but, judging from our recent
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
SUNSET.—WINTER WORK.—MY DOG-TEAMS.—"MY BROTHER JOHN'S GLACIER."—HUNTING.—PEAT BEDS.—ESQUIMAU GRAVES.—PUTREFACTION AT LOW TEMPERATURES.—SONNTAG CLIMBS THE GLACIER.—HANS AND PETER.—MY ESQUIMAU PEOPLE.—THE ESQUIMAU DOG.—SURVEYING THE GLACIER.—THE SAILING-MASTER.—HIS BIRTHDAY DINNER. My diary thus records the advent of winter:— October 16th. The fair-haired god of light reposes beneath the Southern Cross. His pathway is no longer above the silent hills; but his golden locks stream over the mountains
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
JOURNEY ON THE GLACIER.—THE FIRST CAMP.—SCALING THE GLACIER.—CHARACTER OF ITS SURFACE.—THE ASCENT.—DRIVEN BACK BY A GALE.—LOW TEMPERATURE.—DANGEROUS SITUATION OF THE PARTY.—A MOONLIGHT SCENE. Notwithstanding that we had no actual daylight even at noontime, yet it was light enough for traveling; and the moon being full, and adding its brightness to that of the retiring sun, I felt no hesitation in carrying into execution my contemplated journey upon the glacier. The severe gales appeared to have
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
IMPORTANT RESULTS OF THE RECENT JOURNEY.—THE GLACIER SYSTEM OF GREENLAND.—GENERAL DISCUSSION OF THE SUBJECT.—ILLUSTRATIONS DRAWN FROM THE ALPINE GLACIERS.—GLACIER MOVEMENT.—OUTLINE OF THE GREENLAND MER DE GLACE . The results of the journey recorded in the last chapter gave me great satisfaction. They furnished an important addition to the observations which I had made in former years; and I was glad to have an opportunity to form a more clear conception of the glacier system of Greenland. The jo
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
MY CABIN.—SURVEYING.—CASTOR AND POLLUX.—CONCERNING SCURVY.—DANGERS OF EATING COLD SNOW.—KNORR AND STARR.—FROST-BITES.—HANS, PETER, AND JACOB AGAIN.—COAL ACCOUNT.—THE FIRES.—COMFORT OF OUR QUARTERS.—THE HOUSE ON DECK.—MILD WEATHER.—JENSEN.—MRS. HANS.—JOHN WILLIAMS, THE COOK.—A CHEERFUL EVENING. After a sound sleep had in some measure worn off the fatigues of the journey on the glacier, I returned to my diary:— October 28th. I am not sorry to get back again into my cosy little cabin. I never knew
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CHAPTER XIII.
CHAPTER XIII.
INCREASING DARKNESS.—DAILY ROUTINE.—THE JOURNAL.—OUR HOME.—SUNDAY.—RETURN OF SONNTAG.—A BEAR-HUNT.—THE OPEN WATER.—ACCIDENT TO MR. KNORR.—A THAW.—"THE PORT FOULKE WEEKLY NEWS."—THE TIDE-REGISTER.—THE FIRE-HOLE.—HUNTING FOXES.—PETER. The steadily increasing darkness was driving us more and more within doors. We had now scarcely any light but that of the moon and stars. The hunt was not wholly abandoned, but so few were the hours wherein we could see that it had become unprofitable. The gloom of n
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CHAPTER XIV.
CHAPTER XIV.
MIDWINTER.—THE NIGHT OF MONTHS.—BRILLIANCY OF THE MOONLIGHT.—MILD TEMPERATURES.—REMARKABLE WEATHER.—A SHOWER.—DEPTH OF SNOW.—SNOW CRYSTALS.—AN EPIDEMIC AMONG THE DOGS.—SYMPTOMS OF THE DISORDER.—GREAT MORTALITY.—ONLY ONE TEAM LEFT.—NEW PLANS.—SCHEMES FOR REACHING THE ESQUIMAUX IN WHALE SOUND. The reader who has followed my diary since we entered Port Foulke will have noticed how gradually the daylight vanished, and with what slow and measured step the darkness came upon us. As November approached
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CHAPTER XV.
CHAPTER XV.
THE ARCTIC MIDNIGHT.—SONNTAG STARTS FOR WHALE SOUND.—EFFECTS OF DARKNESS ON THE SPIRITS.—ROUTINE OF DUTIES.—CHRISTMAS EVE.—CHRISTMAS DAY.—THE CHRISTMAS DINNER. December 22d. The sun has reached to-day its greatest southern declination, and we have passed the Arctic Midnight. The winter solstice is to us the meridian day, as twelve o'clock is the meridian hour to those who dwell in lands where the sun comes three hundred and sixty-five times instead of once in the "revolving year." To me these la
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CHAPTER XVI.
CHAPTER XVI.
THE NEW YEAR.—LOOKING FOR SONNTAG.—THE AURORA BOREALIS.—A REMARKABLE DISPLAY.—DEPTH OF SNOW.—STRANGE MILDNESS OF THE WEATHER.—THE OPEN SEA.—EVAPORATION AT LOW TEMPERATURES.—LOOKING FOR THE TWILIGHT.—MY PET FOX. January 1st, 1861. The Christmas holidays have passed quickly away, and the year of grace eighteen hundred and sixty-one was born amid great rejoicings. We have just "rung out the Old and in the New." As the clock showed the midnight hour, the bell was tolled, our swivel gun sent a blaze
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CHAPTER XVII.
CHAPTER XVII.
THE ARCTIC NIGHT. January 20th. The Morn is coming! A faint twilight flush mounted the southern sky to-day at the meridian hour, and, although barely perceptible, it was a cheering sight to all of us. At our usual Sunday gathering, I read from Ecclesiastes these lines:— "Truly the light is sweet, and a pleasant thing it is for the eye to behold the sun." And this suggested the text for our evening conversation; and we talked long of the future and of what was to be done, with the coming again of
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CHAPTER XVIII.
CHAPTER XVIII.
PROLONGED ABSENCE OF MR. SONNTAG.—PREPARING TO LOOK FOR HIM.—ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX.—THEY REPORT SONNTAG DEAD.—ARRIVAL OF HANS.—CONDITION OF THE DOGS.—HANS'S STORY OF THE JOURNEY. A full month had now elapsed since Sonntag and Hans left us, and several days of the January moonlight having passed over without bringing them back, I had some cause for alarm. It was evident that they had either met with an accident, or were detained among the Esquimaux in some unaccountable manner. I therefore began t
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CHAPTER XIX.
CHAPTER XIX.
SONNTAG.—TWILIGHT INCREASING.—A DEER-HUNT.—THE ARCTIC FOXES.—THE POLAR BEAR.—ADVENTURES WITH BEARS.—OUR NEW ESQUIMAUX.—ESQUIMAU DRESS.—A SNOW HOUSE.—ESQUIMAU IMPLEMENTS.—A WALRUS HUNT. I will not trouble the reader with the many gloomy reflections which I find scattered over the pages of my journal during the period succeeding the events which are recorded in the last chapter. While the loss of my dogs left me in much doubt and uncertainty as to my future prospects, the death of Mr. Sonntag depr
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CHAPTER XX.
CHAPTER XX.
LOOKING FOR THE SUN.—THE OPEN SEA.—BIRDS. While the days were thus running on, the sun was crawling up toward the horizon, and each returning noon brought an increase of light. I carried in my pocket at all times a little book, and early in February I began to experiment with it. When I could read the title-page at noon I was much rejoiced. By and by the smaller letters could be puzzled out; then I could decipher with ease the finest print, and the youngsters were in great glee at being able to
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CHAPTER XXI.
CHAPTER XXI.
SUNRISE. February 18th. Heaven be praised! I have once more seen the sun. Knowing that the sun would appear to-day, everybody was filled with expectation, and hastened off after breakfast to some favorite spot where it was thought that he might be seen. Some went in the right direction, and were gratified; others went in the wrong direction, and were disappointed. Knorr and others of the officers climbed the hills above Etah. Charley limbered up his rheumatic old legs, and tried to get a view fr
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CHAPTER XXII.
CHAPTER XXII.
SPRING TWILIGHT.—ARRIVAL OF ESQUIMAUX.—OBTAINING DOGS.—KALUTUNAH, TATTARAT, MYOUK, AMALATOK AND HIS SON.—AN ARCTIC HOSPITAL.—ESQUIMAU GRATITUDE. My time became now fully occupied with preparations for my journey northward. The sun appearing on the 18th, as recorded in the last chapter, rose completely above the horizon on the next day, was something higher the day following, and, continuing to ascend in steady progression, we had soon several hours of broad daylight before and after noon, althou
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CHAPTER XXIII.
CHAPTER XXIII.
KALUTUNAH RETURNS.—AN ESQUIMAU FAMILY.—THE FAMILY PROPERTY.—THE FAMILY WARDROBE.—MYOUK AND HIS WIFE.—PETER'S DEAD BODY FOUND.—MY NEW TEAMS.—THE SITUATION.—HUNTING.—SUBSISTENCE OF ARCTIC ANIMALS.—PURSUIT OF SCIENCE UNDER DIFFICULTIES.—KALUTUNAH AT HOME.—AN ESQUIMAU FEAST.—KALUTUNAH IN SERVICE.—RECOVERING THE BODY OF MR. SONNTAG.—THE FUNERAL.—THE TOMB. Kalutunah came back after a few days, according to his promise, and brought along with him the entire Kalutunah family, consisting of his wife and
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CHAPTER XXIV.
CHAPTER XXIV.
STARTING ON MY FIRST JOURNEY.—OBJECT OF THE JOURNEY.—A MISHAP.—A FRESH START.—THE FIRST CAMP.—HARTSTENE'S CAIRN.—EXPLORING A TRACK.—A NEW STYLE OF SNOW-HUT.—AN UNCOMFORTABLE NIGHT.—LOW TEMPERATURE.—EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE ON THE SNOW.—AMONG THE HUMMOCKS.—SIGHTING HUMBOLDT GLACIER.—THE TRACK IMPRACTICABLE TO THE MAIN PARTY.—VAN RENSSELAER HARBOR.—FATE OF THE ADVANCE.—A DRIVE IN A GALE. On the 16th of March I found myself able for the first time to get around Sunrise Point. Except during a brief int
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CHAPTER XXV.
CHAPTER XXV.
SENDING FORWARD SUPPLIES.—KALUTUNAH AS A DRIVER.—KALUTUNAH CIVILIZED.—MR. KNORR.—PLAN OF MY PROPOSED JOURNEY.—PREPARING TO SET OUT.—INDUSTRIOUS ESQUIMAU WOMEN.—DEATH AND BURIAL OF KABLUNET.—THE START. During the next few days the dog-sledges were going and coming between the schooner and Cairn Point continually, carrying to the latter place the stores needed for our summer campaign. The temperature still held very low, and I did not deem it prudent to send out a foot party. I knew by former expe
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CHAPTER XXVI.
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE FIRST DAY'S JOURNEY.—A FALL OF TEMPERATURE.—ITS EFFECT UPON THE MEN.—CAMPED IN A SNOW-HUT.—THE SECOND DAY'S JOURNEY.—AT CAIRN POINT.—CHARACTER OF THE ICE.—THE PROSPECT.—STORM-STAYED.—THE COOKS IN DIFFICULTY.—SNOW-DRIFT.—VIOLENCE OF THE GALE.—OUR SNOW-HUT. April 4th. Buried in a snow-bank, and not over well pleased with my first day's work. The temperature of the air has tumbled down to -32°, and inside the hut it is now, two hours after entering it, a degree above zero, and steadily rising.
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CHAPTER XXVII.
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE STORM CONTINUES.—AT WORK.—AMONG THE HUMMOCKS.—DIFFICULTIES OF THE TRACK.—THE SNOW-DRIFTS.—SLOW PROGRESS.—THE SMITH SOUND ICE.—FORMATION OF THE HUMMOCKS.—THE OLD ICE-FIELDS GROWTH OF ICE-FIELDS.—THICKNESS OF ICE.—THE PROSPECT. I will not lay so heavy a tax upon the reader's patience as to ask him to follow the pages of my diary through the next three weeks. Diaries are of necessity so much taken up with matters that are purely personal and contain so much of endless repetition, so many events
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CHAPTER XXVIII.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE DIFFICULTIES MULTIPLYING.—SLEDGE BROKEN.—REFLECTIONS ON THE PROSPECT.—THE MEN BREAKING DOWN.—WORSE AND WORSE.—THE SITUATION.—DEFEAT OF MAIN PARTY.—RESOLVE TO SEND THE PARTY BACK AND CONTINUE THE JOURNEY WITH DOGS. April 24th. These journal entries are becoming rather monotonous. I have little to set down to-day that I did not set down yesterday. There is no variety in this journeying over the same track, week in and week out, in the same endless snarl continually,—to-day almost in sight of o
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CHAPTER XXIX.
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE MAIN PARTY SENT BACK.—PLUNGING INTO THE HUMMOCKS AGAIN.—ADVANTAGES OF DOGS.—CAMP IN AN ICE-CAVE.—NURSING THE DOGS.—SNOW-BLINDNESS.—A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS.—CAPE HAWKS.—CAPE NAPOLEON.—STORM STAYED.—GRINNELL LAND LOOMING UP.—DISCOVERING A SOUND.—RAVENOUS DISPOSITION OF DOGS.—A CHEERLESS SUPPER.—CAMPING IN THE OPEN AIR.—PROSTRATION OF MEN AND DOGS.—MAKING THE LAND AT LAST. April 28th. I sent the main party back this morning. The separation was quite affecting. They were the worst used-up body of
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CHAPTER XXX.
CHAPTER XXX.
THE PROSPECT AHEAD.—TO CAPE NAPOLEON.—TO CAPE FRAZER.—TRACES OF ESQUIMAUX.—ROTTEN ICE.—KENNEDY CHANNEL.—MILDNESS OF TEMPERATURE.—APPEARANCE OF BIRDS.—GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF COAST.—VEGETATION.—ACCIDENT TO JENSEN. Although much gratified with the success which I had achieved against such desperate obstacles, yet, when I came to reflect upon my situation, in connection with the expectations which I had entertained at setting out, I had little heart to feel triumphant. The thirty-one days occupied i
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CHAPTER XXXI.
CHAPTER XXXI.
A NEW START.—SPECULATIONS.—IN A FOG.—POLAR SCENERY.—STOPPED BY ROTTEN ICE.—LOOKING AHEAD.—CONCLUSIONS.—THE OPEN SEA.—CLIMAX OF THE JOURNEY.—RETURNING SOUTH. The unexpected breaking down of my strong man, Jensen, was a misfortune only one degree less keenly felt than the previous failure of the foot party, and it troubled me much; for, while I lost the services of a stout arm and an active body, I was naturally anxious about his safety. With a helpless man on my hands, and with four hundred and f
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CHAPTER XXXII.
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE OPEN POLAR SEA.—WIDTH OF THE POLAR BASIN.—BOUNDARIES OF THE POLAR BASIN.—POLAR CURRENTS.—POLAR ICE.—THE ICE-BELT.—ARCTIC NAVIGATION AND DISCOVERY.—THE RUSSIAN SLEDGE EXPLORATIONS.—WRANGEL'S OPEN SEA.—PARRY'S BOAT EXPEDITION.—DR. KANE'S DISCOVERIES.—EXPANSION OF SMITH SOUND.—GENERAL CONCLUSIONS DRAWN FROM MY OWN DISCOVERIES AND THOSE OF MY PREDECESSORS. Let us pause here a few moments, in order that we may take a brief survey of the Polar Basin and arrive at a correct understanding of what is
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CHAPTER XXXIII.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
ON BOARD THE SCHOONER.—REVIEW OF THE JOURNEY.—THE RETURN DOWN KENNEDY CHANNEL.—A SEVERE MARCH IN A SNOW-STORM.—ROTTEN ICE.—EFFECTS OF A GALE.—RETURNING THROUGH THE HUMMOCKS.—THE DOGS BREAKING DOWN.—ADRIFT ON A FLOE AT CAIRN POINT.—THE OPEN WATER COMPELS US TO TAKE TO THE LAND.—REACHING THE SCHOONER.—PROJECTING A CHART.—THE NEW SOUND.—MY NORTHERN DISCOVERIES. Port Foulke , June 3d. Back again on board the schooner after two months' toiling and journeying on the ice. Since I left her deck on the 3
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CHAPTER XXXIV.
CHAPTER XXXIV.
INSPECTION OF THE SCHOONER.—METHOD OF REPAIRING.—THE SERIOUS NATURE OF THE INJURY.—THE SCHOONER UNFIT FOR ANY FURTHER ICE-ENCOUNTERS.—EXAMINATION OF MY RESOURCES.—PLANS FOR THE FUTURE. The extracts from my journal quoted in the preceding chapter will have sufficed to give the reader an understanding of the results of my spring and summer sledging, and he will have perceived that they were regarded by me as having laid down a correct basis for future exploration. With the character of the Smith S
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CHAPTER XXXV.
CHAPTER XXXV.
THE ARCTIC SPRING.—SNOW DISAPPEARING.—PLANTS SHOW SIGNS OF LIFE.—RETURN OF THE BIRDS.—CHANGE IN THE SEA.—REFITTING THE SCHOONER.—THE ESQUIMAUX.—VISIT TO KALUTUNAH.—KALUTUNAH'S ACCOUNT OF THE ESQUIMAU TRADITIONS.—HUNTING-GROUNDS CONTRACTED BY THE ACCUMULATION OF ICE.—HARDSHIPS OF THEIR LIFE.—THEIR SUBSISTENCE.—THE RACE DWINDLING AWAY.—VISIT TO THE GLACIER.—RE-SURVEY OF THE GLACIER.—KALUTUNAH CATCHING BIRDS.—A SNOW-STORM AND A GALE.—THE MID-DAY OF THE ARCTIC SUMMER. Having determined to be guided
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CHAPTER XXXVI.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE ARCTIC SUMMER.—THE FLORA.—THE ICE DISSOLVING.—A SUMMER STORM OF RAIN, HAIL, AND SNOW.—THE TERRACES.—ICE ACTION.—UPHEAVAL OF THE COAST.—GEOLOGICAL INTEREST OF ICEBERGS AND THE LAND-ICE.—A WALRUS HUNT.—THE "FOURTH."—VISIT TO LITTLETON ISLAND.—GREAT NUMBERS OF EIDER-DUCKS AND GULLS.—THE ICE BREAKING UP.—CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE SCHOONER.—TAKING LEAVE OF THE ESQUIMAUX.—ADIEU TO PORT FOULKE. The reader will have observed the marvelous change that had come over the face of Nature since the shadow
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CHAPTER XXXVII.
CHAPTER XXXVII.
LEAVING PORT FOULKE.—EFFORT TO REACH CAPE ISABELLA.—MEET THE PACK AND TAKE SHELTER AT LITTLETON ISLAND.—HUNTING.—ABUNDANCE OF BIRDS AND WALRUS.—VISIT TO CAIRN POINT.—REACHING THE WEST COAST.—VIEW FROM CAPE ISABELLA.—PLANS FOR THE FUTURE.—OUR RESULTS.—CHANCES OF REACHING THE POLAR SEA DISCUSSED.—THE GLACIERS OF ELLESMERE LAND. The schooner glided gently out to sea, but the wind soon died away and the current carried us down into the lower bay, where we moored to a berg, and I went ashore and got
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CHAPTER XXXVIII.
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
LEAVING SMITH SOUND.—CROSSING THE NORTH WATER.—MEETING THE PACK.—THE SEA AND AIR TEEMING WITH LIFE.—REMARKABLE REFRACTION.—REACHING WHALE SOUND.—SURVEYING IN A BOAT.—THE SOUND TRACED TO ITS TERMINATION.—MEETING ESQUIMAUX AT ITEPLIK.—HABITS OF THE ESQUIMAUX.—MARRIAGE CEREMONY.—THE DECAY OF THE TRIBE.—VIEW OF BARDEN BAY.—TYNDALL GLACIER. The ice coming in at length with an easterly wind, and being unable to find any harbor (Cadogen Inlet was completely filled with ice), we had no alternative but t
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CHAPTER XXXIX.
CHAPTER XXXIX.
HOMEWARD BOUND.—ENTERING MELVILLE BAY.—ENCOUNTER WITH A BEAR.—MEETING THE PACK.—MAKING THE "SOUTH WATER."—REACHING UPERNAVIK.—THE NEWS.—TO GOODHAVEN.—LIBERALITY OF THE DANISH GOVERNMENT AND THE GREENLAND OFFICIALS.—DRIVEN OUT OF BAFFIN BAY BY A GALE.—CRIPPLED BY THE STORM AND FORCED TO TAKE SHELTER IN HALIFAX.—HOSPITABLE RECEPTION.—ARRIVAL IN BOSTON.—REALIZE THE STATE OF THE COUNTRY.—THE DETERMINATION.—CONCLUSION. My story is soon ended. Having completed the exploration of Whale Sound, we trippe
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