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25 chapters
SEE AMERICA FIRST
SEE AMERICA FIRST
To Mr. and Mrs. Chas. J. Herr whose kind beneficence and interest in the Great Out-of-Doors made this book possible; these Wayside Sketches are affectionately dedicated "I see the spectacle of morning from the hill tops over against my house, from daybreak to sunrise, with emotions which an angel might share. The long, slender bars of cloud float like golden fishes in the crimson light. From the earth, as from a shore, I look out into the silent sea. I seem to partake its rapid transformations;
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Scenery, as well as "the prophet," is "not without honor" save in its own country. Therefore thousands of travellers are in Europe today, gazing in open mouthed wonder at the Swiss Alps or floating down the Rhine pretending to be enraptured, who never gave a passing thought to the Adirondacks, or the incomparable beauty of the Hudson, which perhaps lie at their very doors. It is not our purpose to make the reader appreciate European scenery less but American scenery more. "America first" should
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CHAPTER I
CHAPTER I
In beginning on our journey we disregarded Horace Greeley's advice and went east. True, the course of empires has ever been Westward and the richest gold fields lie in that direction. But the glamour which surrounds this land of "flowing gold" has caused vast numbers to lose their interest in both worlds, until they missed the joys in this and the radiant hope of that to come. "All that glitters is not gold, Gilded tombs do worms infold." The land of the rising
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A NOBLE LIFE
A NOBLE LIFE
In the northern part of Greene county, near the Little Miami river, lies Yellow Springs. As we neared the quiet town with its pleasant avenues of trees that sheltered peaceful, well-kept homes we thought of the noble spirit of him who toiled so arduously here that life might be richer and happier for all humanity. Here for five years dwelt one of America's most illustrious sons, who from a humble beginning of pitiful struggle and nearly wageless toil evolved such a noble life. We are told that h
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CHAPTER II
CHAPTER II
Thou unrelenting Past! Strong are the barriers round thy dark domain, And fetters sure and fast Hold all that enter thy unbreathing reign. Far in thy realm, withdrawn Old empires sit in sullenness and gloom; And glorious ages gone, Lie deep within the shadows of thy womb. Full many a mighty name Lurks in thy depths, unuttered, unrevered. With thee are silent fame, Forgotten arts, and wisdom. —W. C. Bryant. "Who can read the history of t
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THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY
THE SHENANDOAH VALLEY
Shenandoah, "the Daughter of Stars," as the Indians have called this lovely valley, lies in the northwestern part of Virginia between the Blue Ridge mountains on the east and the Alleghanies on the west, beginning near Staunton and extending in a northeastern direction to the Potomac Water Gap at Harpers Ferry. Through it runs what was once known as the "Great Valley Pike" and which is now part of the National Highway. Not only its incomparable scenery but its many thrilling campaigns of histori
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CHAPTER III
CHAPTER III
O! bear me then to vast embowering shades, To twilight groves and visionary vales, To weeping grottoes and prophetic glooms, Where angel forms, athwart the solemn dusk Tremendous, sweep, or seem to sweep, along, And voices more than man through the void, Deep sounding, seize the enthusiastic ear. Or is this gloom too much? Where creeping water ooze, and where rivers wind, Cluster the rolling fogs and swim along The dusky mantled lawns. —Thom
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CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER IV
We spent another memorable day on the mountain roads marveling again at the omnipotent power that creates such beauty. Looking out over the valley from the slope of a hill we had a glorious view. From the ravishing beauty of the scene, our minds fell to musing over that other race who had dwelt here, whose destiny the coming of the white man changed. We wondered how the valley appeared to them and what bird songs burst upon the fragrant air when that other race possessed the land. Our thoughts w
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CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER IV
One of the most pleasant, recollections of travelers in Pennsylvania will be their trip through Lancaster county. For fifty years this county has led the United States in the value of cereal products. Lancaster, the county seat, has a population of fifty-eight thousand. It is one of the oldest towns in the state and was its capital in 1799. It was also the capital of the United States for one day, September 27, 1777. We resolved to keep close watch as we drove across this wonderful agricultural
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CHAPTER V
CHAPTER V
O ye, who dwell in youth's inviting bowers, Waste not, in useless joy, your fleeting hours, But rather let the tears of sorrow roll, And sad reflection fill the conscious soul. For many a jocund spring has passed away, And many a flower has blossomed to decay; And human life, still hastening to a close, Finds in the worthless dust its last repose. Still the vain world abounds in strife and hate, And sire and son provoke each other's fate; An
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CHAPTER VI
CHAPTER VI
An eight-hour drive through the interior of New Jersey is attended with much interest and some surprises. Leaving Camden, which is reached by ferry across the Delaware from Philadelphia, the road traverses many miles of level, sandy country which is almost entirely given over to truck gardening and poultry raising. To those who all their lives have been accustomed to fields of wheat, oats and corn the almost interminable rows of beets, beans, sweet potatoes and melons are very interesting. Proce
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CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VII
You might as well leave France without seeing Paris as to travel through the East and not make a visit to New York. But there is so much to see in this great city that if you have not decided before coming what you wish to see you will miss many places of interest. The Metropolitan Museum of Art should be visited, for it contains the greatest art collection in America. It is located within the borders of Central Park, its principal entrance being on Fifth Avenue, between Eighty-second and Eighty
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THE CATSKILLS
THE CATSKILLS
We spent a never-to-be-forgotten evening near the base of Mount Treluper at the Howland House. How cool and quiet the place was, with only the rippling melody of a mountain stream to disturb it! We walked along the highway that led through the most charming scenery of this lovely region and glimpsed pictures just as beautiful as many places of Europe that have an international reputation. As we strolled along the babbling stream that flowed over its rock-strewn bottom, we thought of Bryant's wor
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TRENTON FALLS
TRENTON FALLS
Who has heard of Trenton falls? We had heard much concerning their beauty, but were not sure as to their location. After consulting several maps and guide books which gave us no information whatever on the subject, we decided to ask information from the manager of the hotel, with a feeling of certainty that we would soon be planning for the morrow's enjoyment. Our host, who was a stout old man having a cosmopolitan face, on being asked the location of Trenton falls, threw his head on one shoulde
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NEWPORT
NEWPORT
To one who wishes to carry away something of the solemn grandeur of the sea, its vast immensity, immeasurable energy and ageless haunting mystery we would say, "go to Newport." The authentic discovery of this harbor dates back to April, 1524, and to the French explorer, Verrazano, who anchored two weeks in the harbor and was visited by the Indians of the island. About 1726 Dean Berkley of the English Church built White Hall which still stands, much in its original condition. Trinity is claimed t
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RHODE ISLAND
RHODE ISLAND
Little Rhode Island! What a surprise it was to find in this, this smallest member of a family group of forty-eight states, so much of the wild and primeval wilderness. Through long stretches of forest bordered road, stony fields and rough pasture land our road led. Great clusters of ferns grew in the swampy meadows, and many brilliant colored swamp flowers were in blossom, giving the otherwise desolate scene a touch of color. Stone fences bordered some of the meadows and now and then a rustic co
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CHAPTER VII
CHAPTER VII
I know where wild things lurk and linger In groves as gray and grand as Time; I know where God has written poems Too strong for words or rhyme. —Maurice Thompson. To one who has lived in a level country how full of joyful experience is a winding mountain road! None of our journeys will be remembered with keener delight than the days spent in sauntering along the Mohawk trail. What incomparable trout streams, what vast primeval forests, how charming the peaceful valleys, what
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THE LURE OF THE MOHAWK TRAIL
THE LURE OF THE MOHAWK TRAIL
Along the Mohawk trail, standing gold and white Where the crystal rivers flash and gleam; The fragrant birch trees greet the sight, And gently droop to kiss the steam. And the lure of the pine on the Mohawk trail, Is tuned to the spirits' restful mood, It murmurs and calls on the passing gale, For all to enjoy its solitude. Still, the birch and pine all silver and gray, Call from the Berkshires and seem to say: "Leave your lowland worries be
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CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER VIII
The traveler who comes to the White Mountains should not fail to see Chocorua. "Chocorua," how rich and sonorous is that word. It has in it something expressing the wildness and loneliness of these lovely hills. Its rhythm suggests the sigh of the wind among mountain pines or the continuous and far-heard melody of distant waterfalls. This famous peak is everything that a New Hampshire mountain should be. It bears the name of an Indian chief. It is invested with traditional and poetic interest. I
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CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER IX
What could be more delightful than a visit to Boston? Those motoring through the New England states will find it both interesting and profitable to tarry a while in this quaint old place. There are so many places of interest in this city that space forbids an enumeration of only a few of the most important. You will probably want to see the State House with its gilded dome which was once covered with copper plates rolled by Paul Revere. The corner-stone of this building was laid by the Masons, P
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CHAPTER X
CHAPTER X
Coming into Lexington from the south one passes Follen church, where Emerson preached. Farther along on the right is the house of John Harrington, last survivor of the battle; then, near the corner of Maple street, the great elm planted by his father. About a quarter of a mile further, on the left, is the Munroe Tavern, headquarters and hospital of Earl Percy, now the property of the Lexington Historical Society. The granite cannon by the High School marks the site of one of the field-pieces pla
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CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XI
The breaking waves dashed high On a stern and rock bound coast, And the woods against the stormy sky Their giant branches tossed. "Thus sang Felicia Hemans in the early years of the last century, and anyone who has sailed in by White Horse beach and 'Hither Manomet' when one of those fierce gales that winter brings to this section of the coast sends great billows thundering up against the cliff and churns all the sea into froth and foam, will readily see how truthful this sin
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CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIII
Whoever passes through the Green mountains and arrives at Burlington in the evening of a fair day will he rewarded by one of the most beautiful views of natural scenery the world has to offer. The outlook from the hilltop here is enchanting. Looking westward you see the beautiful expanse of Lake Champlain, dotted with numerous islands that stretch away to the purple wall of the Adirondacks, whose summits are outlined by a bright golden light which slowly ascends and diffuses along the horizon as
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CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XV
"Flow on forever in thy glorious robe Of terror and of beauty; * * * God hath set His rainbow on thy forehead; and the cloud Mantles around thy feet." —Mrs. Sigourney. Niagara! What a wealth of memories come thronging to you as you repeat the name! Some with visions of an emerald sea, filled with the eternal roar and grandeur of many waters; others with haunting melodies, quiet and tender as an Aeolian harp thrummed by an unseen hand. What a poem of blended power and beauty w
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ITINERARY
ITINERARY
We have included this itinerary so that others who are contemplating a trip over the Old National Road to the East may in some measure find it helpful in planning a journey. Without undue haste we have gone over the route herein designated, and have a world of delightful recollections of those forever memorable excursions. FIRST DAY—Richmond, Ind., via Greenville, O., through the fine agricultural region of Darke County, passing through Xenia, which deserves more than passing notice, for, on the
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