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THROUGH THE HEART OF PATAGONIA
THROUGH THE HEART OF PATAGONIA
Tehuelche Hunting Scene Photochromogravure, Lyons & London. THROUGH THE HEART OF PATAGONIA BY H. HESKETH PRICHARD F.R.G.S., F.Z.S. FELLOW OF THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL INSTITUTE; AUTHOR OF "WHERE BLACK RULES WHITE: A JOURNEY ACROSS AND ABOUT HAYTI" WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DRAWINGS IN COLOUR AND BLACK AND WHITE BY JOHN GUILLE MILLAIS, F.Z.S. AND FROM PHOTOGRAPHS NEW YORK D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 1902 PRINTED IN ENGLAND This Edition is for sale in the United States of America only, and is not to b
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Patagonia is a country about which little is known to the world in general, books dealing with it being few and far between, while the aspect of that quaint tail of South America and its wild denizens has practically never before been pictorially brought under the eye of the public. The following pages have been written with the idea of familiarising my readers with the conditions of life in Patagonia, and of reproducing as strongly as possible the impressions we gathered during our journey thro
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CHAPTER I PATAGONIA
CHAPTER I PATAGONIA
Physical features of Patagonia—The pampas—Climate—Discovery of Patagonia by Magellan—Description of the natives—Sir Francis Drake—Other travellers—Dr. Moreno—Coast-towns—Farms—Gauchos—Emptiness of interior—Route of expedition. Patagonia forms the southern point or end of the South American continent and extends, roughly speaking, from about parallel 40° to the Straits of Magellan. Up to very recent times the geography of this southern portion of the New World has been in a nebulous condition. Va
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CHAPTER II SOUTHWARD HO!
CHAPTER II SOUTHWARD HO!
Leaving England—Start— Primero de Mayo —Port Belgrano—Welsh colonists—Story of Mafeking—First sight of Patagonia—Golfo Nuevo—Port Madryn—Landing—Trelew—A pocket Wales—Difficulties of early colonists—Other Welsh settlements—Older and younger generations—Welsh youths and Argentine maidens—Language difficulty will arrange itself—A plague of "lords"—Lord Reed—Trouble of following a lord—Itinerary—Travelling in Patagonia—Few men, many horses—Pack-horses—Start for Bahia Camerones—Foxes, ostriches, cav
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CHAPTER III THE BATTLE OF THE HORSES
CHAPTER III THE BATTLE OF THE HORSES
Leave Bahia Camerones—Horses wild—Decide on taking one waggon—Bell-mare—Names of horses—Breaking-in of horses—German peones —Horses stray—Gaucho trick—Watching troop at night—Four languages—Signalling by smokes—Searching for horses—Favourite words and phrases—Nag of the baleful eye— Cañadon of the dry river—Bad ground—Flies—Ostrich eggs—Shooting guanaco—River Chico of Chubut—Puma's visit at night—Condor—Lady killed—Singing in camp—Stormy night—Breakdown of waggon—Guanaco on stony ground—Long cha
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CHAPTER IV THE BATTLE OF THE HORSES—(continued)
CHAPTER IV THE BATTLE OF THE HORSES—(continued)
First march with pack-horses—Difficulties—Friendship among horses—The melancholy Zaino—Revolt of an old philosopher—Shifting cargoes—Reach River Chico—Guanaco-shooting—A glimpse of a puma—Pumas and sheep—Arrival at Colohuapi—Hospitality of pioneers—The value of horse-brands. Morning (19th) came to us very grey with a pallid sun, and ushered in the first day of the new system. We found it necessary to use sixteen horses as cargueros or pack-horses. In the early dawn we caught the chosen animals,
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CHAPTER V THE RIVER VALLEYS
CHAPTER V THE RIVER VALLEYS
Arbitrary distribution of animals in Patagonia—Trouble with Gauchos—Indian guide—Germans turned back— Cañadon of River Senguerr—Bad weather—Old Zaino again causes damage—Loss of clothes, ammunition, &c., in the river—Shooting upland geese—River Mayo—Hailstorm—A day's sport in Patagonia—Shooting a wild cow—Was it a wild cow?—Musters' account of wild cattle—First meeting with Tehuelche Indians. In consequence of the visit of the comisario we were somewhat late in starting from Colohuapi, b
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CHAPTER VI MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES
CHAPTER VI MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TEHUELCHES
Indian method of curing measles—Driving out the devil—Magellan— Patagon —Long boots—Reports of travellers—One of the finest races in the world—Nomadic—Hunters—Decreasing in numbers—Introduction of horses— Bolas —No history—Keen bargainers but not progressive—Features—Good teeth—Women—Morality—Young and old women—Half-bloods— Paisanos —Reserved in character—Habits—Infants' heads bandaged—Dance—Wives bought—Price of a wife—Marriage ceremony—White man in toldos —Bad influence—Connections of white m
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CHAPTER VII TEHUELCHE METHODS OF HUNTING
CHAPTER VII TEHUELCHE METHODS OF HUNTING
Hunting season—Surefooted horses—Description of big hunt—Ring round game—Splendid riding of Tehuelches—Horses dislike jumping—Game killed and spared by Tehuelches—Difference of their hunting methods from those of the Onas of Tierra del Fuego—Artistic perception of Onas—Ill-faith of early settlers—Indian trail—"No place for us"—Deterioration of horses—They prize piebalds—Method of breaking in—Perfect riders—Helpless on foot—Staying powers of horses—Dogs—Evil of liquor trade—National sin of permit
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CHAPTER VIII THE KINGDOM OF THE WINDS
CHAPTER VIII THE KINGDOM OF THE WINDS
Como No—Wind and driven sand—Laguna La Cancha—Como No's dogs—Cold winds—Lake Buenos Aires and Sierra Nevada—Cross River Fenix—Stony ground—Skeletons of guanaco—Fine scenery—Short rest—Colt killed—Base camp made—Boyish dreams—Sunday—Routine at Horsham Camp—Driftwood round lake—Constant wind—My tent-home—Scorpions—Guanacos—Engineers' camp—Cooking-pots—First huemul. We now set forth upon the last stage of our journey to Lake Buenos Aires. I had hired one of the Indians to guide us across the high p
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CHAPTER IX ROUND AND ABOUT LAKE BUENOS AIRES
CHAPTER IX ROUND AND ABOUT LAKE BUENOS AIRES
Chain of lakes—Size of lake—Sterility and fertility—Trips to Cordillera—Bones of dead game—Shores of lake—Western shore—Tracks in marshes—Northern shore—Rosy camp by Fenix—Guanaco hunt—Horses stray—Cordillera wolf—Vain search for huemul—Return to Horsham Camp—Trip to River Deseado—Paradise of wildfowl—Shooting ostriches—Long-necked game of Patagonia—No ruins or vestiges of older civilisation in Patagonia—Hunting mornings—Wounded guanaco—Indian trail—Trip to River de los Antiguos—Meet ostrich-hun
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CHAPTER X THE GORGE OF THE RIVER DE LOS ANTIGUOS
CHAPTER X THE GORGE OF THE RIVER DE LOS ANTIGUOS
Descent into Gorge of the River de los Antiguos—Rest-and-be-Thankful Camp—First huemul—Greed of condors—Aspect of Gorge—Tameness of guanaco—Join Van Plaaten's route—Stinging flies—Signal-smokes—De los Antiguos in flood—Difficulty of crossing—Attempt to swim over—Washed away—Loss of rifle and gun—Return to western bank—Cold night—Start next morning—Upper ford impassable—Scanty diet—Fording torrent—Long ride to Horsham Camp—Fire-blackened landscape—News of red puma. Barckhausen and I continued alo
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CHAPTER XI SOME HUNTING CAMPS
CHAPTER XI SOME HUNTING CAMPS
Second trip to De los Antiguos River—Pass Rosy Camp—Fenix flood gone down—Wounded guanaco takes to water—Mauser and shot-gun retrieved—Losing and seeking in Patagonia—Recover horses at Rest-and-be-Thankful Camp—Visit to River Jeinemeni—Trained horse for hunting—Shooting guanaco—Condors— Cañadon of Jeinemeni—Huemul hunting—Ostriches and their habits—Return to Horsham Camp—Night in camp. On December 16, the interval having been taken out by me in sleeping off my chill and fatigue, Scrivenor, Jones
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CHAPTER XII BACK TO CIVILISATION
CHAPTER XII BACK TO CIVILISATION
Christmas Day at Horsham Camp—Horse races—Menu of dinner—Leave Horsham Camp—Basalt plateaus—Large herds of guanacos—Sterile region—Birth of filly—Father of guanacos—Search for Indian trail—Pebble hills—Finding of trail—Filly's first march—Hunting—Mirages—Rain—Tent pleasures—River Olin—Meeting Mr. Waag's party—News from outer world—River Chico—Sierra Ventana—Indian toldo —Shepherd's hut—Houses, sheep and cattle—Night in huts—Antennæ of civilisation— La Gaviota —Santa Cruz. " Horsham Camp , Christ
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CHAPTER XIII JOURNEY TO LAKE ARGENTINO
CHAPTER XIII JOURNEY TO LAKE ARGENTINO
Dividing expedition—Darwin's trip up the Santa Cruz—Provisions—Shoeing horses—Pampa grass and marsh grass—Start for Lake Argentino—Burbury and Bernardo—Visit various estancias —Negro—Suspicious wayfarers—Hospitality— Cañadon of the Santa Cruz—Dry pampa—Sunsets—Game and wildfowl—Flamingos—Sandflies—Mystery Plain—Lake Argentino—River del Bote—Mount Viscachas—Lonely lagoon—Death-place of guanaco—Neigh of guanaco—Large herds—Thorny grass—Description of Lake Argentino—A tragedy of wild life—Condors—N
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CHAPTER XIV THE DOWN-STREAM NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER LEONA
CHAPTER XIV THE DOWN-STREAM NAVIGATION OF THE RIVER LEONA
Boat necessary for farther exploration—Steam-launch on shores of Lake Viedma our only hope—Start to find her—Difficulty of crossing Santa Cruz River—River Leona—Old camp—Hills and guanaco-tracks—Lake Viedma—Finding launch—Damaged by wanderers—Down-stream trip discussed—Repairing launch—Our one chance of penetrating Cordillera—Risks of down-stream passage—Gathering firewood—Cold work—Launch of Ariel —Aspect of Leona River—Good intentions—Califate fuel—Desolate evening—Getting up stream—Start in b
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CHAPTER XV A HARD STRUGGLE
CHAPTER XV A HARD STRUGGLE
Running an ostrich with dogs—Crossing Santa Cruz River—Horses troublesome—Lose my way—Launch refitted—Diary of rough days—Crossing the bar—Nasty predicament—Wreck imminent—Storm—Ascensio's Bay—Changeable weather—Dangerous lakes—Squalls rushing down from gorges of the Cordillera—Icebergs—Ashore for fuel—Squall comes on—Cut off from launch—Miserable night—Wind lulls—Aboard again—Crossing Hell-gate—Cow Monte harbour—Bernardo's fire—Fighting the fire—News of the world—Rumours of war—Death of the Que
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CHAPTER XVI WILD CATTLE
CHAPTER XVI WILD CATTLE
Denseness of forest—Wild cattle originally escaped from early settlers—Grown somewhat shaggy—Indians will not hunt them in forest—Patagonia not a big-game country—Hunting wild cattle—Disappointment—Hunters paradise—Twelve blank days—Sport on Punta Bandera—Big yellow bull—Losing the herd—Baffling ground—Charge of bull and cow—A shot at last—Hunting in forests on Mount Frias—String shoes—Winter hunting—Shoot bull—Shoot huemul five-pointer—Wild-cattle hunting first-class sport. Very different to th
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CHAPTER XVII ON THE FIRST ATTITUDE OF WILD ANIMALS TOWARDS MAN
CHAPTER XVII ON THE FIRST ATTITUDE OF WILD ANIMALS TOWARDS MAN
Opportunities for observation rare—Migration of guanaco limited—Guanaco and man—Upright and crawling attitudes—Will allow approach with horses—Tame near farms—Easily domesticated—Curious—Shyness of ostrich—Huemul curious and confiding—Instances—Easily rendered timid—Puma cowardly—Attacks upon man—Tame cubs—Cordillera wolf—Very fearless—Instances—Pampa-fox also fearless, but in less degree— Résumé of evidence. It will be conceded that few subjects have more interest than the attitude assumed by w
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CHAPTER XVIII[27] THE LARGER MAMMALS OF PATAGONIA
CHAPTER XVIII[27] THE LARGER MAMMALS OF PATAGONIA
Little known of natural history of Patagonia—Distribution of principal mammals—Huemul—Range—Habits—Horns—Not timid in remote districts—Curiosity—Common puma—Immense numbers—Destructive habits—Method of attack—Silent—Expert in hiding lair—Pearson's puma—Points of difference—Characteristics—Guanaco—Wide range—Large herds—Quantities of bones at drinking-places—Hard winters—Habits—Lack of affection for young—Patagonian cavy—Arbitrary limit of range—Weight—Habits—Armadillo. In commencing this chapter
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CHAPTER XIX FIRST PASSING THROUGH HELLGATE
CHAPTER XIX FIRST PASSING THROUGH HELLGATE
Rumour of important undiscovered river—Wish to settle question—Dr. Moreno's description of Lake Argentino—Start for Hellgate—Description of Hellgate—Squall—Sunshine—Scenery—Icebergs—Danger-dodging—Absence of life on banks—West channel of North Fjord—Events of voyage—Giant's Glacier—Camera—Second glacier—Deep water—End of west channel—Return to North Fjord—Icebergs—In difficulties with launch—Escape from a reef—Land on peninsula—Guanaco—Fish—Fish and fariña—Heavy gales—Photographs—One more attemp
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CHAPTER XX DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER KATARINA AND LAKE PEARSON
CHAPTER XX DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER KATARINA AND LAKE PEARSON
Fears of winter coming on—Stormy days—Quiet nights—Picnics in Patagonia—Start by night—Hellgate by starlight—Camp on beach—Advance up North Fjord—Approach to River Katarina—Shallow water—Leave launch—Advance with canvas boat—Tameness of huemul—Anecdote of Canoe Indians—White-faced ducks—First sight of lake—Bernardo falls ill—Immoderate bags of so-called sportsmen—Problem of shrinkage of Lake Argentino—Discovery of Lake Pearson—Description—Bernardo better—Comet—Obliged to turn back—Hellgate by fi
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CHAPTER XXI HOMEWARD
CHAPTER XXI HOMEWARD
Winter comes on—Departure from Lake Argentino—Changed aspect of country—Snow-clouds—Indian encampment—Race with the snow—River Coyly—River Gallegos—Ford—Signs of civilisation—Gallegos—Taking passage in steamer—Lighted street—Good-bye to Bernardo—Meeting with Mr. Waag and Mr. Von Plaaten Hallermund on the Elena —What Patagonia taught me. A fortnight before we started there was a couple of feet of snow on the high pampa. Beside the lake it had been blowing heavily, and storms of sleet followed eac
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A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE FUTURE OF PATAGONIA
A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE FUTURE OF PATAGONIA
It would be possible to write a very long chapter about the future of Patagonia. I do not, however, propose to do this, but to write what I have to say as briefly as possible. To begin with, Patagonia can boast of a fine climate, for, though the winters are certainly hard, no endemic disease exists. The country is exceptionally healthy, nor are there any poisonous reptiles to endanger life on its far-reaching pampas. There are few parts of the earth of which so much can be said. A large portion
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I. Account of the Discovery. By Dr. Moreno.
I. Account of the Discovery. By Dr. Moreno.
In November 1897 I paid a visit to that part of the Patagonian territory which adjoins the Cordillera of the Andes, between the 51st and 52nd degrees of South latitude, where certain surveyors, under my direction, were carrying out the preliminary studies connected with the boundary-line between Chile and Argentina; and in the course of this expedition I reached Consuelo Cove, which lies in Last Hope Inlet. In that spot, hung up on a tree, I found a piece of a dried skin, which attracted my atte
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II. Description and Comparison of the Specimen. By A. Smith Woodward.
II. Description and Comparison of the Specimen. By A. Smith Woodward.
The problematical piece of skin discovered by Dr. Moreno measures approximately 0.48 m. in the direction of the main lie of the hair, while its maximum extent at right angles to this direction is about 0.55 m. The fragment, however, is very irregular in shape; and it has become much distorted in the process of drying, so that the anterior portion, which is directed upwards in the drawing, is bent outwards at a considerable angle to the main part of the specimen which will be claimed to represent
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III. Description of Additional Discoveries. By A. Smith Woodward.[39]
III. Description of Additional Discoveries. By A. Smith Woodward.[39]
Last February, when presenting to the Zoological Society an account of the skin of a Ground-Sloth discovered in a cavern in Southern Patagonia, Dr. Moreno mentioned that further excavations were being made in the hope of finding other remains of the same animal. The task referred to was undertaken by Dr. Rudolph Hauthal, geologist of the La Plata Museum, who met with complete success. [40] He not only found another piece of skin, but also various broken bones of more than one individual of a lar
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IV. Note concerning Tehuelche Legends.
IV. Note concerning Tehuelche Legends.
By Hesketh Prichard . I now proceed to give the testimony of Dr. F. Ameghino, whose brother Carlos was well acquainted with the country and who early gave it as his opinion that the animal, which is named the Neomylodon listai , was still living in Patagonia. In support of his opinion he adduced tales which Carlos Ameghino had gathered from the Indians, who roam the pampas, of a vast mysterious beast said by them to haunt the distant lagoons and forests of the unexplored regions near the Andes.
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APPENDIX B On a new Form of Puma from Patagonia. By Oldfield Thomas, F.R.S.
APPENDIX B On a new Form of Puma from Patagonia. By Oldfield Thomas, F.R.S.
The National Collection owes to the generosity of Mr. C. Arthur Pearson the skin of a fine puma, obtained by Mr. Hesketh Prichard during the recent Daily Express expedition to Patagonia. The skin is remarkably unlike any known form of puma, and appears certainly to represent a new sub-species. Dr. Matschie has already shown [66] that the red puma of the tropics to which he restricts the name Felis concolor , is replaced south of 25° S. lat. by the silver-grey form for which Molina's name, F. pum
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