Father Thames
Walter Higgins
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17 chapters
FATHER THAMES
FATHER THAMES
Offices of The Port of London Authority Frontispiece FATHER THAMES BY WALTER HIGGINS WELLS GARDNER, DARTON & CO., LTD. 3 & 4 PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON, E.C. PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN FATHER THAMES This book is also issued in separate parts, as above....
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CHAPTER ONE
CHAPTER ONE
London River From its mouth inwards to London Bridge the Thames is not the Thames, for like many another important commercial stream it takes its name from the Port to which the seamen make their way, and it becomes to most of those who use it—London River. Now where does London River begin at the seaward side? At the Nore. The seaward limit of the Port of London Authority is somewhat to the east of the Nore Light, and consists of an imaginary line stretching from a point at the mouth of Havingo
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CHAPTER TWO
CHAPTER TWO
The Estuary and its Towns Sheppey , on the coast of which is the Warden Point that forms one end of the Port of London boundary line, is an island, separated from the mainland of Kent by the Swale. People frequently speak of it as the “Isle of Sheppey,” but this title is not strictly correct, for the name Sheppey really includes the word “island.” William Camden, that old writer on geographical subjects, informs us that “this Isle of Sheepe, whereof it feedeth mightie great flocks, was called by
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CHAPTER THREE
CHAPTER THREE
The Medway and its Towns From its position right at the entrance to the River the Medway tributary has always offered a considerable contribution to the defence of London. Going off as it does laterally from the main stream, the Medway estuary has acted the part of a remarkably fine flank retreat. Our forces, driven back at any time to the refuge of the River, could always split up—part proceeding up the main stream towards London, and part taking refuge in the protected network of waterways beh
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CHAPTER FOUR
CHAPTER FOUR
Gravesend and Tilbury The dreary fenland district which stretches from the Isle of Grain inland to Gravesend is that so admirably used by Dickens for local colour in his novel, “Great Expectations.” Some of his descriptions of the scenery in this place of “mudbank, mist, swamps, and work” cannot be bettered. Here is Cooling Marsh with its quaint, fourteenth-century relic, Cooling Castle Gatehouse, built at the time of the Peasants’ Revolt, when the rich folk of the land found it expedient to do
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CHAPTER FIVE
CHAPTER FIVE
The Marshes The stretch between Gravesend and the beginnings of the Metropolis can scarcely be regarded as an interesting portion of the River. True, there are one or two places which stand out from the commonplace level, but for the most part there is nothing much to attract; and certainly from the point of view of the navigator of big ships there is much in this stretch to repel, for here are to be found the numerous shoals which tend to make the passage of the River so difficult. Indeed, the
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CHAPTER SIX
CHAPTER SIX
Woolwich For many years there was a local saying to the effect that “more wealth passes through Woolwich than through any other town in the world,” and, though at first sight this may seem a gross exaggeration, yet when we remember that Woolwich is in two parts, one on each side of the River, we can see at once the justice of that claim, for it simply meant that all the vast traffic to and from the Pool of London went along the Thames as it flowed between the two divisions of the town. To-day as
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CHAPTER SEVEN
CHAPTER SEVEN
Greenwich The history of towns no less than the history of men can tell strange tales of failure and success. Some have had their era of intoxicating splendour, have been beloved of kings and commoners alike, have counted for much in the great struggles with which our tale is punctuated, and then, their little day over, have shrunk to the merest vestige of their former glory. Others, unknown and insignificant villages throughout most of the story, have sprung up, mushroom-like, almost in a night
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CHAPTER EIGHT
CHAPTER EIGHT
The Port and the Docks Any person standing on London Bridge a couple of centuries ago would have observed a scene vastly different from that of to-day. Now we see the blackened line of wharves and warehouses on the two banks, and up against them steamers discharging or receiving their cargoes, while out in the stream a few vessels of medium size and one or two clusters of barges lie off, awaiting their turn inshore; otherwise the wide expanse of the stream is bare, save for the occasional craft
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BOOK II
BOOK II
Reproduced from photographs by permission of Airco Aerials, Ltd. THE GREAT CITY WHICH THE RIVER MADE Reproduced from photographs by permission of Airco Aerials, Ltd. The London County Hall. CHAPTER ONE...
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THE GREAT CITY WHICH THE RIVER MADE
THE GREAT CITY WHICH THE RIVER MADE
How the River founded the City England at the time when London first came into being was a very different place from the well-cultivated country which we know so well. Where now stretch hundreds of square miles of orderly green meadows and ploughed fields, divided from each other by trim hedges, or pretty little copses, or well-kept roads, there was then a vast dense forest, wherein roamed wolves and other wild animals, and into which man scarcely dared to penetrate. This stretched from sea to s
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CHAPTER NINE
CHAPTER NINE
The Riverside and its Palaces To-day , when we stand upon Waterloo Bridge and let our gaze rest upon the Embankment, as it sweeps round in the large arc of a circle from Blackfriars past Charing Cross to Westminster, it is hard indeed to picture the time when these massive buildings—hotels, public buildings, suites of offices, etc.—were not there, when the green grass grew right down to the water’s edge on the left strand or bank of the River, when a walk from the one city to the other was a wal
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CHAPTER TEN
CHAPTER TEN
Royal Westminster—The Abbey The story of Westminster is nearly as old as that of London itself. In our first chapter we spoke of the position of London being fixed to a large extent by the Kent road passing from Dover to the Midlands. That road, heading from Rochester, originally passed over—and still passes over—the Darent at Dartford, the Cray at Crayford, the Ravensbourne at Deptford; and then made its way, not to the crossing at Billingsgate, but to a still older ford or ferry which existed
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CHAPTER ELEVEN
CHAPTER ELEVEN
Royal Westminster—The Houses of Parliament When in the eleventh century Edward the Confessor built the palace from which to survey the erection of his beloved Abbey, he little dreamed that upon the very spot would meet the Parliament of an Empire greater even than Rome; nor did he realize that through several centuries Westminster Palace would be the favourite home of the Kings and Queens of England. William Rufus added to the Confessor’s edifice, and also partially built the walls of the Great
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CHAPTER TWELVE
CHAPTER TWELVE
The Riverside of To-day The Riverside of to-day is noticeable for many things, but for nothing more so than the very great difference between the two banks. On the one hand we have a magnificent Embankment sweeping round through almost the entire length of the River’s passage through London, with large and important buildings surmounting the thoroughfare; while on the other hand we have nothing but a huddled collection of commercial buildings, right on the water’s edge—unimposing, dingy, and dis
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BOOK III
BOOK III
The Castle Keep, Oxford....
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THE UPPER RIVER
THE UPPER RIVER
CHAPTER ONE Stripling Thames Just where the Thames starts has always been a matter of argument, for several places have laid claim to the honour of holding the source of this great national possession. About three miles south-west of Cirencester, and quite close to that ancient and famous highway the Ackman Street (or Bath fosseway), there is a meadow known as Trewsbury Mead, lying in a low part of the western Cotswolds, just where Wiltshire and Gloucestershire meet; and in this is situated what
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