27 chapters
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27 chapters
A ride on horseback to Florence
A ride on horseback to Florence
Landing at Calais—Meeting of a Custom-House Officer with Fanny—Historical remains—John’s mode of Confession—The Hero malgré lui —The Courtgain —St. Omer’s—The Abbey of St. Bertin and the Cathedral—St. Denis and the miraculous St. Hubert—The strength of the short Pepin—Lillers, and John’s precautions— St. Pol—Doullens, the Citadel and the Corporal—The possession of Doullens by the Huguenots—The taking of Amiens caused by love for a fair Widow—Hernand Teillo’s stratagem—His success chiefly owing t
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Landing at Calais—Meeting of a Custom-House Officer with Fanny—Historical remains—John’s mode of Confession—The Hero malgré lui —The Courtgain —St. Omer’s—The Abbey of St. Bertin and the Cathedral—St. Denis and the miraculous St. Hubert—The Strength of the short Pepin—Lillers, and John’s precautions— St. Pol—Doullens , the Citadel and the Corporal—The possession of Doullens by the Huguenots—The taking of Amiens caused by love for a fair Widow—Hernand Teillo’s stratagem—His success chiefly owing
33 minute read
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Clermont—Château now a Penitentiary—a Stronghold of the English in Charles the Sixth’s time— Creil , where Peter the Hermit preached the first Crusade—Charles the Sixth’s place of Confinement during his Madness—Chantilly— Écouen —Henry last Duke of Montmorency —Presentiment of his Father—at eighteen created Lord High Admiral—His early love in Languedoc —His prudential Marriage at the Louvre—His Successes at Rochelle—Coldness of Louis the Thirteenth, and jealousy of Richelieu—His gallantry at Vei
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Departure under an unlucky star— Essonne—Petit Bourg —The Czar Peter—Fontainebleau—Palace—Apartments of the Emperor Charles the Fifth—Chamber where Pius the Seventh said mass daily—Chapel founded in the seventh century—Cypher of the Saviour and Virgin placed beside those of Henry the Second and Diana of Poitiers —Princess Mary of Orleans—Napoleon’s apartments— Marie Antoinette’s boudoir—Carving by Louis the Sixteenth’s hand— Monaldeschi , favourite of Queen Christina—Gallery where he was murdere
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Moret —The Nunnery—Louis the Fourteenth’s black Daughter—Two useful Saints— Villeneuve la Guyard —Descriptions deceitful—Strange Cure for Blood to the Head—A River-god on terra firma—Sens—St. Colombe, Thomas à Becket’s refuge— Villeneuve le Roy —Place where the Vine was first cultivated—Auxerre—The Chapter’s hundred years’ Law-suit concerning Fur Trimmings—The Canons’ Games at Ball—The Cathedral, occupying the site of the first Christian Chapel— St. Germain —The Saint’s refusal to get out of his
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Tournus—Greuze’s grave— Mâcon —The walking Wedding—Retirement of a Count of Mâcon , with thirty Knights, to the Abbey of Cluny—Dealings of his Successor with evil Spirits—His exit from Earth in the Car of a black Visitor—His Son turning Monk through fear—The County sold by his Daughter Alice to France—Bloodless occupation of Mâcon by the Huguenots— Mâcon retaken through bribery by the Marshal of Tavannes—Madame de Tavannes ’ mode of increasing her Revenues— Sauteries de Mâcon —Farce of St. Poinc
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
Heights of Fourvières —Difficult Descent—Trade in Relics—Our Lady of Fourvières —Saving Lyons from Cholera—Lunatic patients—Dungeon where the first Christian Bishop was murdered—Roman Ruins—The Christians’ early Place of Assembly— St. Irénée —A Coffin—Subterranean Chapels—Bones of the Nine Thousand—The Headsman’s Block, and the Murmur from the Well—Bleeding to Death— Marguerite Labarge —Her Abode for Nine Years—Her Return to upper Air Cause of her Death—Her Family rich Residents in Lyons—Mode of
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Place Bellecour—Louise Labé—Clémence de Bourges —Her desertion by her lover—His Death—Her own— Rue de la Belle Cordière —Abd-el-Kader—The fat Cantinière Captive—Presented to the Emperor of Morocco—The Emperor’s Love—Her obstinacy—Application made to the Consul—Her Oaths and Blows—Her Return—The Savoyard Regiment’s fidelity—Marquis of —— and Dogs—Cat Massacre—Indignant Landlady— Pont de la Guillotière —Bridge at the same spot broken beneath Philip Augustus and Richard Cœur de Lion —Leaving Lyons—
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Chambéry —the Cathedral—the Château—the Chapel—the Holy Shroud distilling blood—Mules’ refusal to carry the relic away—Respected by the flames—St. Charles of Borromeo’s pilgrimage to its shrine at Turin—Its authenticity denied by Calvin—Drawing made of the Saint Suaire by desire of Philip the Fifth of Spain—Artist on his knees—Savoy—Peter of Savoy favourite of Henry the Third of England—Savoy Palace, his residence—The Green Count Amedée —His tournament—The Emperor Charles the Fourth’s passage—Ho
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
Well merited attentions to St. Anthony—The young Countess de S—.—Leeches paying postilions better than the English—General de Boigne — Lemenc and its antiquities— Droit de dépouille of the Bénédictines —Their agreement with the nobles of Chambéry —Ancient vaults beneath the church—Colossal statues feared by the good people of Chambéry —Tomb of an Irish Primate—Calvary—Monument of General de Boigne —His low birth—His struggles—His success in India—The death of his benefactor Sindiah—His gratitude
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Early history of Geneva—Constitution—Duke Amedée the Eighth—Attempt to become master of Geneva—The Bishop inclined to cede his rights—The opposition of the citizens—Charles the Third— Berthelier —Alliance with Fribourg—His courage—Geneva taken—His refusal to fly—His arrest—A tooth-drawer named his judge—His execution—The news of his death causing the impression he had hoped for—Treaty—The Mamelukes—The Confrères de la Cuiller —Advance of Berne and Fribourg—Charles the Third’s forced concessions—
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
A vain Stork—A German coachmaker— Coppet—Ferney —Voltaire’s Church—His habitation—Crockery Cenotaph—Shoe-blacking in his study—The old Gardener—The morning rehearsals in tragic costume—The story of Gibbon—Voltaire catching his pet mare—Gibbon’s opinion of Voltaire’s beauty—Their reconciliation—The tree which shaded Franklin—The increase of his village—The marble pyramid broken—The gardener’s petites antiquités and cross wife—Voltaire’s opinions of his correspondents—His remains the property of a
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
Arrival of friends—Excursion to Chamouny—The Voiron mountain—Its monastery—The babes in the wood—Old castle of Faucigny —Its last possessor—Her rights over Dauphiny bequeathed to Savoy—Long war with France— Bonneville—Cluses —Wretched inhabitants—The baronial capital in the time of the old lords—Cavern of La Balme —The village of Arache , and Falquet —The Nant d’Arpenas—Sallenches—Mont Blanc —The lake of Chède filled up— Pont Pelissier—Les Motets —The Glacier des Bossons —Evening—A tranquil nigh
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A ride on horseback to Florence
A ride on horseback to Florence
Ride to Chillon —Castle of La Tour du Peil—Chastellar—Chillon —Attentive gendarmes—Oubliettes —Destiny of their inhabitants— Salle de Justice —Torture room—Eating hall with its fleurs-de-lis —The dungeons—The beam—The interment in the lake— Bonnivard —His misfortunes—His prison—The first pillar having its own story—Sketches on the wall made by a captive—His escape—Drowned in the attempt two months before Bonnivard’s deliverance—Alexander Dumas’ name above that of Byron—The English amateur’s pain
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CHAPTER I.
CHAPTER I.
Ride to Chillon —Castle of La Tour du Peil—Chastellar—Chillon —Attentive gendarmes—Oubliettes —Destiny of their inhabitants— Salle de Justice —Torture room—Eating hall with its fleurs-de-lis —The dungeons—The beam—The interment in the lake— Bonnivard —His misfortunes—His prison—The first pillar having its own story—Sketches on the wall made by a captive—His escape—Drowned in the attempt two months before Bonnivard’s deliverance—Alexander Dumas’ name above that of Byron—The English amateur’s pain
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CHAPTER II.
CHAPTER II.
Canton of Berne—Village where the Swiss troops obtained a victory over the French force in ’98—Berne—Bears in all forms—Their revenues diminished—Their new baptism—Foundation of Berne—Rodolph of Erlach —Laupen—Rodolph chosen guardian of orphans of the Count of Nidau—Murdered by his own son-in-law—Cathedral—Monument to Duke Berthhold—His wife’s execution—Charles Louis of Erlach massacred by his own soldiers during French invasion—Treatment of Berne by the French—Thun—Privileges—Castle of Thun—The
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CHAPTER III.
CHAPTER III.
Leave Thun— Zweizemmen —The wrong road— Château d’Œx—Gruyères —The Préfet’s ball—Anniversary of the Virgin’s leaving school— Vevay —The patient Griselda’s obstinacy—The exploit— Villeneuve —The Valley of the Rhone—St. Maurice—The Theban legion—The Valais —The village buried—The Rhone overflowed—Former inundation—The old villager saved—St. Bernard—Story of its founder— Martigny—Riddes—Sion —The prelate’s murder—The family of the Rarons —The Mazza— Raron persecuted—Demands the aid of Duke Amedée —
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CHAPTER IV.
CHAPTER IV.
Rhone overflowed—Baths of Louëche—Tourtemagne—Visp—Ravages of the Rhone—Madonnas placed to stop its further rise—Glys— Brieg —Ascent of Simplon —Ganther—Gallery of Schalbet —The toll-gate—Hospice—The Barons of Stockalper—Village of the Simplon -Broken road—Algaby—Gorge of Gondo—Fanny too near the edge—Gap in the road—Part of gallery carried away—Opportune aid—Arrival at Gondo—Broken road near Isella —Accident during the storm—Remnant of a carriage—The douanier’s aid—An auberge —The military post
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CHAPTER V.
CHAPTER V.
Vogogna —Country overflowed—The ferry— Isola Madre—Baveno —Innkeeper— Isola Bella —Ground made in 1670— Arona —Castle of St. Charles of Borromeo—Castle of Angera —Frescoes in its ruined halls—History of St. Charles of Borromeo—Early habits—Resides in his diocese at Milan—Strives to reform the church—Attempt to murder him—A miracle—His conduct during the plague—Life of St. Anthony—Who cured the young pig—St. Christopher, who was twelve feet high—The Ticino —Amusement on board the ferry—The commis
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CHAPTER VI.
CHAPTER VI.
The Duomo —Our host’s advice—Joseph the Second—Tombs—That to the memory of Giovanni and Gabrielle de’ Medici, designed by Michael Angelo—Chapel of St. John—St. Bartholomew—Tomb of Otho, archbishop of Milan—Crucifix carried by St. Charles of Borromeo—Antique altar—Burial-place of St. Charles—La Scala—Opera ballet—The Brera, once monastery of the Umiliati —Paintings—The old castle—Arms of the Visconti —Prerogative preserved to himself by Giovanni—The parricide—Filippo Mario—His innocent wife execu
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CHAPTER VII.
CHAPTER VII.
Leaving Milan— La Bicocca —Francis the First—Francis Sforza—Black Bands of Giovanni de’ Medici — Lautrec —An intrigue— Samblançay —The king prisoner— Samblançay falsely accused—Condemned to be hanged at Montfaucon —His death deferred till dark, in expectation of the king’s relenting—His last words resembling Wolsey’s—Lodi—The Austrians—Imprecations—The serenade—Doubts as to the road—Piacenza—A thirsty douanier —The cathedral—Alberoni—A bell-ringer—The Farnese —Pier Luigi’s murder—Statues on the
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CHAPTER VIII.
CHAPTER VIII.
Pic de la Mirandole — Castel Franco—Bologna —A bad inn left for La Pace—Its mistress—Statue of Pope Julius the Second—St. Petronio—Mistake of a learned man—Charles the Fifth—Here crowned King of Lombardy—King Enzio—His peasant-love—His twenty years’ captivity—The origin of a name—The towers— Accademmia —St. Cecilia—The cathedral—Temple dedicated to Isis—Papal troops—A capitulation—Cholera—An Italian hospital—French soldiers—The procession barefoot—The well-attested miracle—The Appennines—Lojano—
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CHAPTER IX.
CHAPTER IX.
The Duomo —Its interior—Michael Angelo’s farewell—Vasari—Congress of artists convoked—A dome of pumice stone— Brunelleschi turned out as a madman—The egg—His colleague Ghiberti —His feigned illness—The difficulties divided—Height of the dome— Giotto —The Campanile—Pietro Farnese —His gilded mule—Dante—Condemned to be burned at the stake—Peter of Toledo—Conrad the traitor—The sacristy—The Pazzi —Julian murdered—Salviati hanged in his cardinal’s robes—Seventy executions—The artist nicknamed Andrea
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CHAPTER X.
CHAPTER X.
Boboli Gardens— Buondelmonte—Ponte Vecchio—Santa Croce—Palazzo Borgo —Tombs—Michael Angelo’s monument—Died the year Galileo was born— Machiavelli—Alfieri—Galileo dying the year in which Newton was born—Chapel of the Pazzi—San Lorenzo —Monument of Cosmo, Pater Patriæ —Michael Angelo’s Day and Night—Contradictory employments—His reply to a verse addressed to his statue— Cappella de’ Principi—Santa Maria Novella —Cimabue’s Virgin— Cappella de’ Spagnuoli —Portraits of Petrarch and Laura—Turned out b
37 minute read
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CHAPTER XI.
CHAPTER XI.
La Steccata —The Teatro Farnese —Its magnificence—Its ruin—Would contain 9000—St. Jeronimo—Sir Thomas Lawrence— Alti Relievi —The overflowed Po—The infant saved—Placentia again—Misery of Piedmontese— Voghera—Tortona —Plains of Marengo —The wrong road—The Tanaro overflowed—Asti—The Angelo and its reception— Moncaglieri —The vow, and the Virgin, who resembled a Duchess—The old Italian gentleman— Victor Amedée’s abdication—The old man’s arrest—His death at Moncaglieri —Susa—Its waterspouts—A chimne
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CHAPTER XII.
CHAPTER XII.
St. Jean de Maurienne —A tradition of two fingers—Story of a procession of bears at Henry the Second’s passage—Peculiar customs—Baptism—Funerals— Aiguebelle —La Carbonaria— Chambéry —-Road by the Mont du Chat —A valley of the Rhone— Pierre Châtel once a monastery—Bellay—Murder committed by a notary—A peculiar race—Pont d’Ain—Cathedral of Brou —Its foundress and her motto—Bourg—Fair-time—An aubergiste—Montrevel —We are taken for part of Franconi’s troop— Tournus—Chalons—Arnay le Duc—Vermenton—Joi
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APPENDIX.
APPENDIX.
The crime of Cinq Mars consisted in his treating all means as allowable, provided they had for end the favourite’s downfall; his treason to Louis; his appeal to Spain. The fault of De Thou lay in his preference to an individual over his country, in private affections too strong for public virtues. An extract from Montresor’s Memoirs, detailing the last days of their lives, must find a place here. By translating closely, I have tried as much as possible to preserve the manner of the quaint origin
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