Normandy: The Scenery & Romance Of Its Ancient Towns
Gordon Home
12 chapters
9 hour read
Selected Chapters
12 chapters
PREFACE
PREFACE
This book is not a guide. It is an attempt to convey by pictures and description a clear impression of the Normandy which awaits the visitor. The route described could, however, be followed without covering the same ground for more than five or six miles, and anyone choosing to do this would find in his path some of the richest architecture and scenery that the province possesses. As a means of reviving memories of past visits to Normandy, I may perhaps venture to hope that the illustrations of
12 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER I Some Features of Normandy
CHAPTER I Some Features of Normandy
Very large ants, magpies in every meadow, and coffee-cups without handles, but of great girth, are some of the objects that soon become familiar to strangers who wander in that part of France which was at one time as much part of England as any of the counties of this island. The ants and the coffee-cups certainly give one a sense of being in a foreign land, but when one wanders through the fertile country among the thatched villages and farms that so forcibly remind one of Devonshire, one feels
17 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER II By the Banks of the Seine
CHAPTER II By the Banks of the Seine
If you come to Normandy from Southampton, France is entered at the mouth of the Seine and you are at once introduced to some of the loveliest scenery that Normandy possesses. The headland outside Havre is composed of ochreish rock which appears in patches where the grass will not grow. The heights are occupied by no less than three lighthouses only one of which is now in use. As the ship gets closer, a great spire appears round the cliff in the silvery shimmer of the morning haze and then a thou
2 hour read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER III Concerning Rouen, the Ancient Capital of Normandy
CHAPTER III Concerning Rouen, the Ancient Capital of Normandy
The Tour de la Grosse Horloge, Rouen When whole volumes have been written on Rouen it would be idle to attempt even a fragment of its history in a book of this nature. But all who go to Rouen should know something of its story in order to be able to make the most of the antiquities that the great city still retains. How much we would give to have an opportunity for seeing the Rouen which has vanished, for to-day as we walk along the modern streets there is often nothing to remind us of the centu
40 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IV Concerning the Cathedral City of Evreux and the Road to Bernay
CHAPTER IV Concerning the Cathedral City of Evreux and the Road to Bernay
Evreux Cathedral The tolling of the deep-toned bourdon in the cathedral tower reverberates over the old town of Evreux as we pass along the cobbled streets. There is a yellow evening light overhead, and the painted stucco walls of the houses reflect the soft, glowing colour of the west. In the courtyard of the Hotel du Grand Cerf, too, every thing is bathed in this beautiful light and the double line of closely trimmed laurels has not yet been deserted by the golden flood. But Evreux does not re
37 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER V Concerning Lisieux and the Romantic Town of Falaise
CHAPTER V Concerning Lisieux and the Romantic Town of Falaise
In the Rue Aux Fèvres, Lisieux Lisieux is so rich in the curious timber-framed houses of the middle and later ages that there are some examples actually visible immediately outside the railway station whereas in most cases one usually finds an aggregation of uninteresting modern buildings. As you go towards the centre of the town the old houses, which have only been dotted about here and there, join hands and form whole streets of the most romantic and almost stage-like picturesqueness. The narr
43 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VI From Argentan to Avranches
CHAPTER VI From Argentan to Avranches
Between tall poplars whose stems are splotched with grey lichen and whose feet are grown over with browny-green moss, runs the road from Falaise to Argentan, straight and white, with scarcely more than the slightest bend, for the whole eight miles. It is typical of the roads in this part of the country and beyond the large stone four or five kilometres outside Falaise, marking the boundary between Calvados and Orne, and the railway which one passes soon afterwards, there is nothing to break the
2 hour read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VII Concerning Mont St Michel
CHAPTER VII Concerning Mont St Michel
So, when their feet were planted on the plain That broaden’d toward the base of Camelot, Far off they saw the silver-misty morn Rolling her smoke about the Royal mount, That rose between the forest and the field. At times the summit of the high city flash’d; At times the spires and turrets half-way down Pricked through the mist; at times the great gate shone Only, that open’d on the field below: Anon, the whole fair city disappeared.                Tennyson’s Gareth and Lynette “The majestic spl
2 hour read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER VIII Concerning Coutances and Some Parts of the Côtentin
CHAPTER VIII Concerning Coutances and Some Parts of the Côtentin
When at last it is necessary to bid farewell to Mont St Michel, one is not compelled to lose sight of the distant grey silhouette for a long while. It remains in sight across the buttercup fields and sunny pastures on the road to Pontaubault. Then again, when climbing the zig-zag hill towards Avranches the Bay of Mont St Michel is spread out. You may see the mount again from Avranches itself, and then if you follow the coast-road towards Granville instead of the rather monotonous road that goes
35 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER IX Concerning St Lô and Bayeux
CHAPTER IX Concerning St Lô and Bayeux
The richest pasture lands occupy the great butter-making district that lies north of St Lô. The grass in every meadow seems to grow with particular luxuriance, and the sleepy cows that are privileged to dwell in this choice country, show by their complaisant expressions the satisfaction they feel with their surroundings. It is wonderful to lie in one of these sunny pastures, when the buttercups have gilded the grass, and to watch the motionless red and white cattle as they solemnly let the hours
32 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER X Concerning Caen and the Coast Towards Trouville
CHAPTER X Concerning Caen and the Coast Towards Trouville
Caen, like mediaeval London, is famed for its bells and its smells. If you climb up to any height in the town you will see at once that the place is crowded with the spires and towers of churches; and, if you explore any of the streets, you are sure to discover how rudimentary are the notions of sanitation in the historic old city. If you come to Caen determined to thoroughly examine all the churches, you must allow at least two or three days for this purpose, for although you might endeavour to
48 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter
CHAPTER XI Some Notes on the History of Normandy
CHAPTER XI Some Notes on the History of Normandy
The early inhabitants of Normandy submitted to the Roman legions under Titurus Sabinus in B.C. 58, only a few years before Caesar’s first attempt upon Britain. By their repeated attacks upon Roman territory the Gaulish tribes had brought upon themselves the invasion which, after some stubborn fighting, made their country a province of the Roman Empire. Inter-tribal strife having now ceased, the civilisation of Rome made its way all over the country including that northern portion known as Neustr
23 minute read
Read Chapter
Read Chapter