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THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND WESTERN SECTION
THE MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND WESTERN SECTION
ALREADY PUBLISHED IN THE SAME SERIES MOTOR ROUTES OF ENGLAND SOUTHERN SECTION (South of the Thames) With 24 Illustrations in Colour 'The touring motorist ... will find Mr. Home exactly the sort of companion who will add sensibly to the pleasures of the day's run. All along the main roads he gossips brightly of history, architecture, and archæology, and manages to convey a large amount of information without being unpleasantly didactic.' Pall Mall Gazette. THE MOTOR ROUTES OF FRANCE TO THE CHÂTEA
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PREFACE
PREFACE
There have been many inquiries for this new volume of the 'Motor Routes of England,' which I should have been glad to publish a year ago had the necessary time been at my disposal. Finding that there was little chance of getting the book out even this year, I obtained the help of Mr. Charles H. Ashdown, who has written a considerable portion of the letterpress under my supervision. We motored over a great part of the routes together last year, and part of North Wales, which I had no time to visi
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
From the Marble Arch to Elstree the surface is very good, in spite of trams for part of the way. Elstree to St. Albans .—A hilly but good road. St. Albans. —Speed limit, 10 miles per hour; dangerous cross-roads in centre of town. St. Albans to Dunstable .—Excellent surface, almost level....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Edgware. —An old-fashioned village. Elstree. —A charmingly situated village, overlooking Aldenham Park. The road through Highgate, Finchley, and Barnet passes the following places on the way to St. Albans: Chipping Barnet. —A growing town, much modernized; church, Perpendicular style, but recently almost entirely rebuilt. Monken Hadley. —A pretty village; interesting church with cradle beacon affixed to tower; obelisk of Battle of Barnet. South Mimms. —Small village; Perpendicular church, with t
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Dunstable to Daventry. —Undulating in places, but with good surface to Daventry. Daventry to Lutterworth. —Poor road to Kilsby; 4 miles from Kilsby an ascent of 1 in 14, followed by a descent of 1 in 12; then a gradually improving road to Lutterworth. Kilsby to Atherstone. —Undulating road, with good surface....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Fenny Stratford. —A small town with a Georgian church. Stony Stratford. —A small town with no great interest. Towcester. —Easton Neston House and Park. Daventry. —Small town; historic inn. Lutterworth. —Quiet country town; associations with Wycliffe, especially in the Perpendicular church, where the great Protestant's pulpit is still to be seen. Cross-in-Hand. —Roman centre for roads. Nuneaton. —Two miles off the main road to the south-west; the George Eliot country. Hartshill. —Two miles off ro
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Atherstone to Lichfield. —Undulating road with fine surface. Lichfield to Shifnal. —Almost level; surface fairly good, but the direct road (Watling Street) is rough and has some steep hills near Oakengates. The Shifnal Loop is, therefore, recommended. (See Route Map 3 .)...
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Tamworth. —An ancient town; historic castle; Perpendicular church. Lichfield. —Cathedral; statue of, and associations with, Samuel Johnson. Shifnal. —Pretty town, with quaint timbered houses; church Norman, Early English, and Decorated. Wroxeter. —The Roman Uriconium ; Roman remains. ( Trunk ) No. 3. ATHERSTONE TO SHREWSBURY. ( Trunk ) No. 3. At Atherstone the railway is passed by a bridge, superseding a former level-crossing. Immediately to the left a road leads to the site of the almost demoli
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SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES
SHREWSBURY TO CHESTER, 39½ MILES
On leaving Shrewsbury , descent of 1 in 10 in the town; dangerous. Road to Chester usually in good condition; surface splendid; no steep gradients. Between Shrewsbury and Wem , undulating. From Whitchurch , general fall from about 400 feet to sea-level at Chester . Battlefield of Shrewsbury, 1403. —About 3 miles from Shrewsbury; Battlefield Church, Perpendicular. Wem. —Obelisk to Rowland Hill. Whitchurch. —Busy country town; church dating from 1711. Rowton Moor. —Three miles from Chester; battle
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LOOP No. 1—SECOND PORTION CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES
LOOP No. 1—SECOND PORTION CHESTER TO MOLD AND RHYL, 35½ MILES
Chester to Mold. —Tramcar-lines to Saltney, flat; then splendid surface. Broughton. —Ascent 1 in 21; then level to Mold. Mold. —Fairly long hills to Caerwys; then level to Rhyl, except a descent near Trefnant. Mold. —Small county town; church of florid Henry VII. architecture; Bailey Hill, site of a British fortress; scene of the 'Alleluia Victory.' Cilcain. —Church with magnificent oak roof. Caerwys. —Pretty scenery; the residence of Llewelyn. Bodfari. —Roman station. St. Asaph. —Small town, wi
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LOOP No. 1—THIRD PORTION RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES
LOOP No. 1—THIRD PORTION RHYL TO CORWEN, LLANGOLLEN, WREXHAM, AND SHREWSBURY, 86½ MILES
Rhyl to Trefnant. —A good road. Trefnant. —Ascent 1 in 14, then good to Denbigh. Denbigh to Ruthin. —Undulating; steep ascent in Ruthin, 1 in 11, then good road until 2 miles from Corwen, when there is a descent of 1 in 13. Corwen to Llangollen. —Slightly hilly; first-class surface. Llangollen to Wrexham. —Llangollen to Trevor excellent; Trevor to Ruabon bumpy, then fairly good to Wrexham. Wrexham to Ellesmere. —Steep hill 1 mile from Wrexham, then exceptionally good to Ellesmere; afterwards und
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
The Holyhead Road .—Splendid surface; perfect condition generally. Dangerous hill in Shrewsbury . A fairly stiff ascent at Chirk , 1 in 18. Road ascends from Corwen to Cerrig-y-Druidon . Last 9 miles into Bettws-y-Coed downhill. Bettws-y-Coed to Tal-y-Cafn. —Level, then a hill, up and down, 1 in 12. Near Llandudno Junction. —Steep ascent, 1 in 10....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Shrewsbury. —Castle; free library and museum; market-house; churches; public gardens; town walls. Montford Bridge. —Pretty road. Oswestry. —Castle mound; church, with a fine tower. Chirk. —Castle of great interest; viaduct; aqueduct. Llangollen. —Valle Crucis Abbey; Eliseg's Pillar; bridge. The really fine scenery lies beyond Llangollen. Corwen. —Church, with eighth-century cross in churchyard. Conway Falls. —Pandy Mill and Falls, Swallow Falls, all about 2 miles short of Bettws-y-Coed, upon the
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
At Penmaenmawr a gradient of 1 in 14. Before reaching Llanfairfechan 1 in 12. Surface good....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Conway. —The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century house. Penmaenmawr. —Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries. Llanfairfechan. —A typical Welsh watering-place. Aber. —Falls. Bangor. —Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral; University buildings. ( Trunk ) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR. Town Plan No. 5—Conway. The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by Telford, the harmony o
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
A steady rise from Bethesda to Llyn Ogwen , then level for 2 miles. A long descent to Bettws-y-Coed , steep at times. Surface good....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Penrhyn Castle. —Modern Norman structure (open to public). Llandegai Model Village. —Church, with interesting tomb. Bethesda Slate Quarries. Nant Ffrancon. —Scenery wild and grand. Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen. —Stern rock and lake scenery. Llyn Ogwen. —A wild lake among the mountains. Capel Curig. —The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon. Bettws-y-Coed (see p. 84 ).—A charming village in a steep leafy valley. Loop 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED. Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Bangor to Carnarvon. —Nearly level and splendid surface. Carnarvon to Llanberis. —Steep hills for 4 miles, then easy gradients and good surface. Steady rise through Pass of Llanberis . Remainder of the route splendid surface, with occasional moderate hills....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Carnarvon. —The Roman town of Segontium ; magnificent thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church. Splendid views of the Snowdon precipices . Llanberis. —A popular resort consisting of old and new villages; Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway. Pass of Llanberis. —Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery. Beddgelert. —A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church; prettiest part of route. Aberglaslyn. —Pass and bridge; delightful scenery. Penrhyn. —Ffestiniog
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Surface to Llwyngwril excellent. Near Arthog gradient of 1 in 10. Near Friog gradient of 1 in 14. Ascent of 1 in 9 near Abergynolwyn , and descent of 1 in 6 into the village. After Tal-y-llyn ascent of 1 in 7, and descent to Corris 1 in 16. Surface generally good to Machynlleth . Then excellent road, but hilly, to Cemmaes ....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Arthog. —Waterfalls. Llwyngwril. —A village; remains of Castell-y-Gaer. Llanegryn. —Church with magnificent rood-loft; Bird Rock in distance. Tal-y-llyn. —A lake near Cader Idris. Corris. —Toy railway; slate district. Machynlleth. —Market town; remains of old Senate-house. Loop 3. DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN. The road from Dolgelley passes, with many windings, from the town to the estuary at Penmaenpool, to which place excursion steamers run during the summer from Barmouth. Although the
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Cemmaes to Aberystwyth. —Good surface all the way, but hilly; worst gradients before and after Talybont, 1 in 13 and 1 in 11. First 12 miles after Aberystwyth splendid surface, then becomes a little rough and bumpy to Llangurig . There are some steep hills in the neighbourhood of the Devil's Bridge ....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Glandovey (or Glan Dyfi ).—Entrance for the beautiful Lyfnant Valley; view over the estuary. Aberystwyth. —A considerable town, with ruins of an Edwardian castle and the University buildings. The Devil's Bridge. —Grand scenery; the Parson's Bridge; the Punch Bowl. Loop 4. CEMMAES TO ABERYSTWYTH AND LLANGURIG. The road down the Valley of the Dovey presents a pretty panorama, but possesses no particular feature to arrest attention—it is merely a pleasant drive. GLANDOVEY This small place stands at
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Steady rise to Cross Foxes , then very steep ascent to top of Cold Door Pass (1 in 8), 988 feet high. Easy descent to Dinas Mawddwy . Dinas Mawddwy to Carno. —Undulating, but a rise just before Carno, 1 in 12. Carno to Caersws. —Steady descent, occasionally sharp. After Caersws undulating, with a few stiff hills to Llangurig ....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Dolgelley. —Small town possessing little interest in itself. Surroundings include Torrent Walk, Precipice Walk, Cader Idris, and innumerable spots to which excursions on foot may be taken. Cross Foxes. —Splendid view from near this inn. Dinas Mawddwy. —A little town, prettily situated; grand view of Aran Mawddwy, 2,970 feet. Talerddig. —A natural rock arch. Caersws. —Small village on site of Roman station, with visible earthworks. Llanidloes. —A typical Welsh market town; the church; Van Mines.
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TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES
TALGARTH TO CARDIGAN AND ST. DAVID'S, 117¼ MILES
To Brecon good road, and thence to Llandovery splendid. Llandovery to Lampeter. —Very good; to Cardigan , steep hills at times. Cardigan to Fishguard. —A succession of steep hills, mostly 1 in 11 or 12; at Fishguard descent and ascent of 1 in 7, dangerous turns; dangerous hairpin turn on the hill into Nevern . Fishguard to St. David's. —Undulating, but good. Brecon. —Very pleasant town; the Priory Church, a massive structure, chiefly Early English and Decorated; fragments of town walls. Llandove
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LOOP No. 5—SECOND PORTION ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES
LOOP No. 5—SECOND PORTION ST. DAVIDS TO HEREFORD, 132¼ MILES
St. David's to Haverfordwest. —This road has a fine surface, but hills are frequent and all dangerous. They range from 1 in 8 to 1 in 12. Haverfordwest to Carmarthen. —This also has a good surface, but the hills are numerous. Near Narberth is a hill 1 in 9. Carmarthen to Brecon. —Splendid surface and easy gradients. Brecon to Hereford. —An excellent road without dangerous hills. Hay. —A toll of 9d. must be paid for crossing the river. Solva. —A village in pretty scenery. Pointz Castle. —An earth
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
The road is splendidly engineered, and as a rule has an excellent surface. There are no really stiff gradients....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Rhayader. —A small and uninteresting town; Birmingham reservoirs. Builth. —Another small town, possessing no interest besides the site of the castle and the wells. Talgarth (1 mile distant).—Remains of Bronllys Castle; Llangorse Pool. Crickhowell. —The church; the castle ruins. Abergavenny. —A market town; castle, now a recreation-ground; church, with fine carved oak; earliest wooden effigy; the Blorenge. ( Trunk ) No. 8. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY. The road to Rhayader traverses part of the Upper
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Abergavenny to Newport. —No steep hills, fine surface. Newport to Ross. —A splendid road; at Chepstow a hill 1 in 12. At Whitchurch a dangerous hill, 1 in 10, with poor surface. After passing Goodrich the Wye is crossed by Kerne Bridge, where a toll is charged for motor-cars. Ross to Gloucester. —Very good; no stiff gradients....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Raglan. —Village and church; beautiful ruins of the castle; picturesque scenery. Usk. —A village, with ruins of castle and a Norman church. Caerleon. —A village, with museum of Roman antiquities; the amphitheatre. Newport. —A busy port; ruins of the castle; interesting church of St. Woollos; the docks. Caerwent. —Small village with Roman remains; Caldicott Castle is a little to south of route. Chepstow. —A market town; the castle, a fine example of a Norman fortress; the church, chiefly of Norma
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HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES
HEREFORD TO SHREWSBURY, 54¾ MILES
To Shrewsbury a first-class road; a hill of 1 in 12 at Ludlow and 1 in 15 at Bodenham Hill . Sutton Walls. —Remains of Offa's castle. Bodenham. —A village with a large and handsome church. Hampton Court. —A house dating from the time of Henry IV. Leominster. —A very picturesque town; the Town Hall; the church, with the nave of a former Priory; the Butter Cross. Ludlow. —An old and very interesting town; the church, one of the finest in England; the Guildhall; an excellent museum; Richard's Castl
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LOOP No. 6—SECOND PORTION SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES
LOOP No. 6—SECOND PORTION SHREWSBURY TO HEREFORD, 81¼ MILES
Shrewsbury to Worcester. —A few hills only to Bridgnorth; thence to Kidderminster some steep hills, but otherwise an excellent road. One of the hills is 1 in 12 after Shatterford; after that good. Worcester to Hereford. —To Malvern splendid; between Malvern and Ledbury ascent 1 in 9, descent 1 in 11 in crossing the Malvern Hills, then very good road to Hereford, with only trifling hills. Buildwas Abbey. —A beautiful ruin. Bridgnorth. —A picturesque town, with a church and the remains of a castle
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Gloucester to Nailsworth. —The road is fairly level, with a good surface. Nailsworth to Bath. —The road climbs for the first 2 miles (1 in 15), and then is undulating along a ridge of downs until about 3 miles from Bath, where the long descent is 1 in 15. Bath to Highworth. —An excellent road, with a steep hill soon after Cricklade (1 in 12), and an abrupt descent after Highworth (1 in 12). The road becomes hilly near Chipping Norton , with a very stiff descent at Fish Hill (1 in 11), after whic
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Painswick. —Exceptionally picturesque little Cotswold town. Fine church and churchyard, with clipped yews; Painswick Court, a fine old Tudor house near the church. Stroud. —A small town with cloth manufactures. Town Hall of fifteenth century; church modern, except tower. Nailsworth. —A cloth manufacturing place scattered in the valley south of Stroud. Bath. —The famous Georgian watering-place. A large stone town. Roman baths in splendid preservation; the Abbey Church, Perpendicular; Pulteney Bri
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Gloucester to Cheltenham. —Level; excellent surface. There are no hills of any importance all the way to Oxford, but the surface is rather rough between Andoversford and Burford . The road falls nearly all the way from Northleach to Oxford ....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Cheltenham. —A watering-place dating from the eighteenth century. Spa; promenades; St. Mary's Church, Decorated. Northleach. —Picturesque Cotswold village-town. Perpendicular church, with famous brasses of wool-merchants and remarkably fine porch. Burford. —A very interesting and picturesque old town; several old houses; market hall; church, large and irregular, Norman, Early English, and Perpendicular; Priory ruins. Asthall Barrow. —A prominent prehistoric mound. Witney. —A pleasant and unusual
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Oxford to Stratford. —Splendid surface; steep drop down to Long Compton. Stratford to Coventry. —Surface on the whole excellent; not so good near Stratford. Coventry to Banbury. —An excellent road, but a few rather steep hills are encountered. Banbury to Oxford. —Excellent....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Woodstock. —A little town, with a church containing several styles of architecture; Blenheim, the residence of the Dukes of Marlborough; the Column of Victory. Long Compton. —The Rollright Stones, a prehistoric circle of importance. Stratford-on-Avon. —Shakespeare's birthplace; the memorial; the church and its interesting monuments; New Place, the residence of the poet; the Grammar School; Guild Chapel; and Anne Hathaway's Cottage, 1 mile west. Warwick. —A picturesque town, famous for its castle
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NOTES FOR DRIVERS
NOTES FOR DRIVERS
Between Oxford and Maidenhead the road is somewhat hilly, but the surface is generally good; there is a steep hill (1 in 13) after leaving Henley . From Maidenhead to London the road is level, with an excellent surface, except between Maidenhead and Windsor , where the road is sometimes flooded....
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PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Sandford-on-Thames. —Small village; church not interesting; remains of preceptory of Knights Templars. Nuneham Courtney. —Eighteenth-century village, very unusual; Manor-house of Harcourts. Dorchester. —Old village, with many picturesque cottages; Abbey Church of considerable interest. Henley. —Picturesque little town; the church, Early English and Tudor; splendid river views; the Town Hall. Maidenhead. —Large modern town; fine boating centre. Eton. —The college and War Memorial Hall. Windsor. —
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HOTELS ON THE ROUTE
HOTELS ON THE ROUTE
The following hotels are recommended, having been lately visited by the authors:...
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