An Itinerary Of Provence And The Rhone, Made During The Year 1819
John Hughes
16 chapters
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16 chapters
OF ORIEL COLLEGE OXFORD.
OF ORIEL COLLEGE OXFORD.
ISLE OF ST. MARGUERITE NEAR CANNES AND PRISON OF MASQUE DE FER. isle of s T marguerite near cannes and prison of masque de fer. SECOND EDITION. LONDON: JAMES CAWTHORN. MD.CCCXXIX....
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PREFACE.
PREFACE.
It has been the Author's object to render the following volume a companion to persons visiting the country described. He has therefore not so much studied to compile from known books of historical reference, as to answer those plain and practical questions which suggest themselves during an actual journey, and to enable those whose time is limited, and who wish to employ it actively, to form the necessary calculations as to what is to be seen and done. The best points of view, and the parts whic
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PARIS TO ROCHEPOT.
PARIS TO ROCHEPOT.
No one, I imagine, ever yet left an hotel in a central and bustling part of Paris, without feeling the faculty of observation strained to the utmost, and experiencing a whirl and jumble of recollections as little in unison with each other as the well known signs of that whimsical city, the Bœuf à-la-mode , (with his cachemire shawl and his ostrich feathers) and the Mort d'Henri Quartre . The contrasts and varieties of the grave and gay, the affecting and the burlesque, the magnificent and the pa
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ROCHEPOT TO LYONS.
ROCHEPOT TO LYONS.
" Mon Dieu, ma fille," says Madame de Sevigné in one of her letters to Mad. de Grignan, "que vous avez raison d'etre fatiguée de cette Montagne de Rochepot! je la hais comme la mort; que de cahots, et quelle cruauté qu'au mois de Janvier les chemins de Bourgogne soient impracticables!" Allowing this to have been the case in her days, I can hardly wonder that even Mad. de Sevigné was insensible to the magnificence of the prospect from this elevated point; and thought only of the safety of her nec
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LYONS.
LYONS.
Every traveller on his first arrival at a large place of any interest, and where his time is limited, must have experienced a difficulty in classing and forming, as it were, into a mental map, the various objects around him, and in familiarizing his eye with the relative position of the most striking features. To meet this difficulty, I should advise any one visiting Lyons, to direct his first walk to the eastern bank of the Rhone, and after crossing a long stone bridge called the Pont la Guillo
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LYONS TO MONTELIMART.
LYONS TO MONTELIMART.
May 7.—From Lyons to St. Symphorien, our breakfast-stage, twelve miles. For the first seven, the outskirts of Lyons, extending along the western bank of the Rhone, continue to exhibit one unvarying appearance of wealth and population. The Archbishop's palace, which stands about two miles out of the city, on a hill overlooking the river, does not add much to the beauty of the country, as it strongly resembles a large manufactory. St. Symphorien, a neat small town, marked by a ruined watch-tower t
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CHÂTEAU GRIGNAN.
CHÂTEAU GRIGNAN.
May 10.—This was the day of the greatest interest and fatigue which we had as yet passed; and moreover afforded us a tolerably accurate idea, at the risk of our bones, of the nature of French crossroads. Having understood that the road from Montelimart to Grignan was inaccessible to four-wheeled carriages, we set off at four in the morning in a patache, the most genteel description of one-horse chair which the town afforded. Let no one imagine that a patache bears that relation to a cabriolet wh
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ORANGE—AVIGNON.
ORANGE—AVIGNON.
Our road to La Palud lay along the rocky vale first discovered from the heights above Château Grignan, which in fact is not so much a vale as a high plateau of ground enclosed between hills, like many parts of Castille. To the latter country, indeed, the Comtat Grignan bears a striking resemblance in the characteristic features which prevail through the greater part of it. The insulated grey rocks have forced themselves through the starved soil, like projecting bones; the parched fields are more
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AVIGNON—MURDER OF BRUNE—HOSPITAL DES FOUS—MISSION OF 1819.
AVIGNON—MURDER OF BRUNE—HOSPITAL DES FOUS—MISSION OF 1819.
On the opposite side of the square in which our inn was situated, stands the Hôtel du Palais Royal, the scene of Brune's assassination. The account which M. Joüy gives in the Hermite en Provence, of this horrible transaction, corresponds as nearly as possible with the particulars which we heard upon the spot. Being summoned on the restoration of Louis to answer the charge of treason, and having stopped with his escort at Avignon for the purpose of changing horses and refreshing himself, the mars
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PONT DU GARD—NISMES—MONTPELIER—CETTE.
PONT DU GARD—NISMES—MONTPELIER—CETTE.
May 13.—This day was fixed on for a journey to Vaucluse, the road to which is better adapted for the accommodation of two wheels than of four. M. Durand, our voiturier, attended accordingly with one of his portly mares harnessed to a sort of cabriolet, very much resembling an Irish noddy. Its high boarded front reaching to our chins, and the little fat person of Durand rather incommoded than accommodated on a cushion tied to the shaft, and much too near the mare on every account, formed a grotes
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TARASCON—BEAUCAIRE—ST. REMY—ORGON—LAMBESC.
TARASCON—BEAUCAIRE—ST. REMY—ORGON—LAMBESC.
To Tarascon 19 miles of road for the most part bad and sandy. I am not geologist enough to decide with accuracy on the formation of that part of the banks of the Rhone which we were approaching, but the detached specimens of rock are of a curious nature. After passing a little village called St. Vincent, we came to an open plain, bounded in front by several singular round hills on the summit of one of which, called the Roche Duclay, was a rock so exactly resembling an old castle in size and shap
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AIX—MARSEILLES.
AIX—MARSEILLES.
May 22 .—To Aix sixteen miles. Though the country during the first part of the stage is hilly without any romantic character, and rather unpromising, the difference of climate was already apparent from the strong and brilliant colours of the very hedge flowers, of which we observed an endless variety. After passing St. Canat, the first post, the country improves a little, and the [48] mountain under which Aix is situated begins to thrust its lofty head above the intervening line of hills. In pro
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OLLIOULES—TOULON.
OLLIOULES—TOULON.
May 23.—From Marseilles to Cujes twenty-four miles. From the views which we had from the Viste and Notre Dame de la Garde, we were prepared to expect much from the nearer acquaintance with the environs of Marseilles, which the first seven or eight miles would afford us. In this case, however, as in Campbell's mountain, "'Twas distance lent enchantment to the View;" for that which as a distant whole presented a scene of the highest beauty, and the richest cultivation, was nothing better in detail
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FREJUS—CANNES—ISLE OF ST. MARGUERITE—ANTIBES.
FREJUS—CANNES—ISLE OF ST. MARGUERITE—ANTIBES.
May 27.—From Toulon to Puget les Crottes, 23 miles. On passing the small town of La Valette, from which the road to Hieres diverges, the mountain barrier under which Toulon is situated ends abruptly in a precipice, fortified by a strong redoubt. From this spot a detachment of the combined forces were driven by the republicans, who scaled the rock during the night at the most imminent risk; and the evacuation of Toulon was the ultimate consequence of this daring coup de main, in which Buonaparte
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NICE—COL DE TENDE—CONCLUSION.
NICE—COL DE TENDE—CONCLUSION.
From Antibes to Nice, sixteen miles, along a beautiful sweep of coast, the whole extent of which, crowned by the gigantic chain of Maritime Alps, lies in full view for the whole way. No sketch, much less any description, can give an idea of the combined effect of this extensive bay, or the air of cheerfulness spread over the whole; among all the celebrated first views of Italy, there are probably few which speak to the imagination in a more imposing as well as pleasing manner. We crossed the fro
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BOOKS PUBLISHED BY JAMES CAWTHORN, COCKSPUR STREET.
BOOKS PUBLISHED BY JAMES CAWTHORN, COCKSPUR STREET.
ITINERARY OF PROVENCE AND THE RHONE, made during the Year 1819, By JOHN HUGHES, A.M. of Oriel College, Oxford: Illustrated by the following Views, engraved in the line manner from Drawings by Dewint, by W.B. Cooke, G. Cook, and J.C. Allen. Royal Quarto or Imperial Octavo. Isle of St. Marguerite, the Prison of the Masque de Fer—Château Rochepot—Lyons—Lyons Cathedral—Mont Blanc from a height above Lyons—Tower of Mauconseil, Vienne—Château La Serve—Valence and Dauphine Mountains—Montelimart—Château
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