Departure from Bayonne, the Bidassoa, and entrance into Spain; Precautions against Robbery; Black Mail, and Anecdote; Charming and novel Scenery; Mail travelling in Spain; Vittoria; Spanish Bread; Priests; the Spanish Cloak; Women; Arrival of the Infante Don Francis; a National trait; Spanish Money and expense of Travelling; Journey through Biscay to Bilbao; Chocolate; the Plain of Vittoria; Passage of the Biscayan Mountains; Durango; a Village Misfortune; Biscayan Recreation; the Muleteer’s Son

Waggon travelling; Scenery; Bills of Fare, and Expenses; second Visit to Vittoria; Departure for Madrid; the Ebro; Privileges of the Military; Old Castile; Husbandry; Burgos; Beggars; Posadas; Traits of Misery in a Castilian Village; New Castile; Quixotic Adventure; the Somo-sierra and Approach to the Capital; Sketches of the Environs, and Arrival in Madrid; Information for Travellers. Upon those roads in Spain where there are no diligences, the traveller may generally find an ordinario , or gal

Streets and Street Population; Female Dress: the Mantilla, the Fan; aspect of the Streets of Madrid at different hours; the Siesta; Shops; good and bad Smells; State of the lower Orders; Analysis of the Population; Street Sketches; Sunday in Madrid; the Calle de Alcala; Convents; the Street of the Inquisition; private Apartments in Madrid; the Prado and its Attractions; ludicrous Incongruities; Spanish Women, and their Claims; the Fan and its uses; Portraits; inconvenient Exaction of Loyalty; th

The King, Queen, and Royal Family; Personal Appearance of Ferdinand; a Royal Jeu d’esprit ; the King’s Confidence in the People, and Examples; Character of the King; a Carlist’s Opinion of the King; Favourites,—Calomarde,—Alegon,—Salsedo,—the Duque d’Higar; rising Influence of the Queen; Habits of the Royal Family; Court Diversions; Rivalry of Don Carlos; the Queen’s Accouchement, and Views of Parties; Detection of a Carlist Plot; the Salic Law; Court Society; Persons of Distinction, and Ministe

The Profession of a Nun; Reflections; Description of the Interior of a Convent; the Monastic Life; Description of a Bull-Fight; Sketches of Spanish Character; a Horse Race. No one ever visited a Roman Catholic country, without feeling some curiosity upon the subject of nuns and convents, monks and monasteries; and there is certainly no country in the world that affords so many incitements to this curiosity, or so many facilities for gratifying it, as Spain. Among all the ceremonies belonging to

A slight sketch of the life of Murillo, will not be considered an unappropriate introduction to some notice of his principal works, yet to be found in the Picture Gallery of Madrid; and in the churches, convents, and hospitals of Seville. Estaban Murillo , the prince of painters, was born at Seville, on the 1st of January, 1618. The small town of Pilas , in Andalusia, has disputed this honour with Seville; but the claim of Pilas to this distinction has probably arisen from the fact, that his mot

The Picture Gallery; the Works of Murillo; the Annunciation; the Virgin instructed by her Mother; Landscapes; Velasquez and his Works; Meeting of Bacchanalians; the Forges of Vulcan; Españoletto, and his Works; Villavicencio; Juanes; Alonzo Cano; Cerezo; Morales; Juanes’ Last Supper; the Modern Spanish School; Aparicio; the Famine in Madrid; Italian Gallery; Flemish School; the Sala Reservada ; Statuary; Cabinet of Natural History; Sala Reservada ; the Patrician’s Dream; the Desengaño de la Vida

Literature; Difficulties to be encountered by Authors; the Book Fair; Digression respecting the Claims of Spain to Gil Blas; Public and Private Literary Societies; Libraries; Obstacles to Improvement, from the State of Society; Female Education; Education for the Liberal Professions; Course of Study for the Bar; Course of Medical Studies; Charitable Institutions; Consumption of Madrid; Prices of Provisions. A priest , with whom I was acquainted in Madrid, telling me one day, that he had thoughts

In dedicating a chapter to the consideration of the state of parties, and the probable political prospects of Spain, I am anxious to avoid the imputation of any assumption of superior knowledge, or exclusive information. My knowledge upon these subjects has no farther claim to superiority than that which arises from its having been gathered upon the spot: this ought, no doubt, to count for something; both because a resident in a country is better situated for judging of the authenticity of infor

Journey from Madrid; First View of the Escurial; Philip II.; Situation of the Escurial; the Church; Lucas Jordan; the Relics; the Santa Forma; the Sacristy and its Pictures; a Reverie; the Hall of Recreation; the Library; the Tomb of the Kings; the Manuscript Library; Ignorance and Idleness of the Monks, and Anecdotes; Manner of Life among the Monks; the Palace; Particulars of the Extent and Cost of the Escurial; Pedestrian Journey across the Sierra Guaderrama to St. Ildefonso; the Palace, Water

Journey from Madrid; Proofs of the backwardness of Spain; Appearance of the Country; Spanish Mule-driving; a Venta; First View of Toledo; Toledo Recreations and Society; Remains of Former Grandeur, and Proofs of Present Decay; Picturesque Views; the Tagus; Intricacy of Toledo; Bigotry and Priestcraft; Reasons for the Prevalence of Religious Bigotry in Toledo; Proofs of Bigotry; Aspect of the Population; the Cathedral and its Riches; Scene in the Cathedral; the Alcazar; Historical Retrospect; Pra

Different Modes of Travelling to Seville; Journey to Aranjuez; the Gardens of Aranjuez; Ocana; a Spanish Supper; Polinario, the ci-devant Robber; History of his Change of Life; La Mancha, and Journey to Manzanarez; Madridlejos and its Population; Husbandry of La Mancha; Puerto Lapiche, and References to Don Quixotte; Manzanarez; Journey to the foot of the Sierra Morena; Consolacion, and its miserable People; Val de Peñas and its Wine, and Details; Explanation of a Passage in Don Quixotte; the Ve

Madrid not the sole Capital of Spain; Peculiarities of Seville; Moorish Customs; the Streets; the Population; Manner of Living in Andalusia; Society; Morals; the Archbishop; the Dean; the Convents; frequency of Murder in Andalusia, and its Causes; Serenading; Superstition in Seville, and Examples of it; extraordinary Facts; the Paseo; Andalusian Women; Oracion ; Las Delicias ; Orange-Groves; Details respecting the Orange Trade of Seville; the Cathedral; the Capuchin Convent, La Caridad , and Mur

Journey to Xeres; the Vineyards, and their Produce; Amount of Export, and Official Tables for Ten Years; average Export and Price; Increase in the Trade; the Xeres Grape; Details respecting the Manufacture of Sherry; Pale Sherry and Brown Sherry; a curious Sherry; Amontillado; Adulterated Sherries, Inferior Sherries, and Low-priced Sherries; the Xeres Cellars; Varieties in Taste of Sherries; Knowledge of the Merchants; Management of the Vineyards; Wine Houses in Xeres and in Port St. Mary; Price

Peculiarities of Cadiz; a Fête; the Ladies of Cadiz; curious Whims and Usages; Morals; the Religious Bodies; Murillo’s last Picture; Mr. Brackenbury’s Pictures; Remarks upon Consular Remuneration; the two Cathedrals; effects upon the Commercial Prosperity of Cadiz, from its having been created a Free Port; State of the Road between Cadiz and Gibraltar; Departure from Cadiz; Chiclana; Morning Scenes; a Venta; the African Coast; Wild Scenery; Dangers of the Road; Suspicious Circumstance; Tariffa;

Picture of the Street Population of Gibraltar; the Construction of Houses favourable to Epidemic; Scenery, union of Nature and Art; the Agremens of Gibraltar as a Military Station; high Prices in Gibraltar; the Alameda; the Excavations; Walk to the Summit; the Monkeys; Magnificent View; Sunday in Gibraltar; Trade; the Epidemic; Extortion at the Passport Office; Voyage to Malaga; View of the City from the Sea; a strange Usage; Pictures of Idleness; facility of Living in Malaga; Bad Character of t

Different Routes to Granada; Ascent of the Malaga Mountains; an Anecdote illustrative of Spanish Morals; Picture of a Venta and its Inmates; Night Arrangements; beautiful situation of Loxa; the Venta de Casin; first View of Granada; Reflections; the Situation of Granada and its Vega; the Alhambra; St. Michael’s Mount, and its Singularities; excavated Dwellings; View from the Mount; extraordinary Changes in Temperature; a Fire in Granada, and the curious means resorted to for extinguishing it; Su

The best mode of travelling this Road; Precautions necessary; the Village of Huetor, and its Venta; Aspect of the Country; an Encounter; Diezma; singular Scenery; Guadix; Journey from Guadix; excessive Cold; Baza, and its Valley; Cullar de Baza; excavated Dwellings; a probable intention of Robbery; Chirivel; Desolate Country on the confines of Murcia; Puerto; the Vale of Lorca, Dress of the Murcian Peasantry; Lorca Market; the Cathedral, and Liberality of the Archbishop of Carthagena; Totana; a

Winter in England and in Spain; Journey from Murcia; Orihuela and its Huerta; Inhabitants, and Superstition; a Muleteer’s Story; La Granja, and effects of the Earthquake of 1829; Elche, and its Forest of Palms; Commerce; the Date; arrival at Alicant; magnificent Houses; Situation of Alicant; the Feast of the Patron Saint; peculiarity in Alicant Society; Political Restrictions on Society; the Trade and Exports of Alicant; Barilla, the Huerta; an extraordinary Law-suit; Dangerous Road to San Felip

Bridges, River, Convents; prevalence of Religious Bigotry; Moorish Remains; Beggars, and the cause of their abundance in Valencia; the Archbishop; the University; Academy of Fine Arts; the Cathedral and its Tower; the plain of Valencia and its productions; Rice Grounds and their produce; produce of Silk, and Silk Trade; export of Fruit; prices of Provisions; Pictures; Valencia Society; the Ladies of Valencia; the port of Valencia; Paseos; Valencia Tiles; Journey to Murviedro, (the ancient Sagunt